The Bury Travelodge, don’t start me.
Anticipating a time consuming journey for the 10km from Bury back to Manchester this Sunday morning, The Hector was up at 09.00. A stroke of luck led to a shared taxi to Bury Interchange and Tram rather than the 1.5km walk to a Sunday Bus service. This meant I was at Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1LQ England) minutes after 10.00. The lights were on, Rizwan saw me approach, there was a wave. This is the type of reception one experiences at Kabana which makes it the standout Curry House in the Northern Quarter.
Hector has been monitoring the Refurbishment of this Curry Cafe since November when the exterior of the building was taken back to the brick, and more significantly January 3rd, when the Interior was tackled.
The seating area was all set, The Chaps behind the counter were still setting up, cooking even. Hector was in no rush, 11.00 was my intended arrival time, train home at 13.15, the ultimate Photo Opperchancity.
It was cold, Rizwan forgot to turn on the heating, in anticipation of premises having been closed for weeks, Hector was suitably attired. It is summer in Australia, where Andy Murray has once again failed to deliver. Still the World’s #1, my January visits to Kabana over they years have always reported the same outcome.
By 11.00 some Regulars were taking their place at the counter, no food had yet been served. Customer #5 remarked: I thought I was in the wrong place, but the streets look the same.
Kabana now seats Fifty at a squeeze, maybe thirty in comfort. However, people will budge up, such is the Informality as I experienced back in November.
Hector was summoned to the counter. Rizwan pointed to the Board which had been filled since my arrival. Karahi Lamb it had to be (again). On-the-bone? – asked Rizwan, as if. Rice would accompany, Chapattis were still offered. And so The Hector became Customer #1 of Kabana #2.
This is the best place to have Breakfast – said a Lady in the queue as I moved along the counter to smother my Karahi Lamb in chopped Green Chillies and a forest of Fresh Coriander. Here we go.
The Portion was Huge. It’s Sunday Morning at 11.10, Hector has just been given more Food than he could ever contemplate before 15.00 on a good day. Take your time, Hector, the train leaves in two hours.
The Coriander and Chillies were mixed in, no photos of the Dog’s Breakfast. The Meat was easily in Double Figures, the Pieces were Large; the Bone Content would be revealed in time. How Tender was this Lamb? One suspects given that Friday was the hoped-for opening day, this Lamb had time to sit and absorb the Flavours from the Masala, Magnificent. As with Al Faisal two days previously, I found the Masala to be less – Soup-like – than I associate with the Northern Quarter. Perhaps it was simply the Rice absorbing the Excess. The Masala was Puréed rather than Shorva, the Seasoning was at the right end of The Scale. The Chillies had raised the Spice Level to Appropriate, one knows by now how many pieces to add.
Three Bones were present, one Sucky, from here the Marrow would have permeated the Masala, how Curry should be made. I found myself halving some of the Meat, I suspect this was a Hector Portion. I had to finish it, I did, just. No more Food today, please. Marg will expect Dinner tonight, Dilemma, the finest sort.
I hear your opening on Saturdays? – I heard another Lady customer state as she paid. Kabana seven days a week will affect the other nearby venues.
The Bill
£6.30. One cannot make this up.
The Aftermath
Rizwan gave me his email address to forward my photos.
I hope to be back later this year.
Take care.
Jaki Liebezeit RIP
The plan was to write a review of last night’s IQ gig at The Met in Bury, however, this evening news was released about the death of a Musician who has heavily influenced Hector’s musical tastes since 1973.
Jaki Liebezeit was a founder member of – CAN – my favourite band of all time. I have more Vinyl and CDs by Jaki Liebezeit than any other Musician. His Metronomic style continued to add a distinctive dimension to all the projects he has been involved with since – CAN – ceased recording.
I had hoped to see Jaki at the Michael Rother gig in Düsseldorf last month, alas he was not available. Marg and I were due to see Jaki reunite with – CAN – members Irmin Schmidt and Malcolm Mooney at the Barbican this April in the company of FP – Gordon. The moniker I used for all the pupils I ever taught who asked me to sign a shirt or Leaver’s Book was the – Deus ex Machina – Logo as Jaki drew for me back in Glasgow in 1974.
It is time to play Tago Mago once more.
The Lamb Curry had a Thicker, Puréed-style Masala than I have typically been served here. By the time the Rice absorbed any surplus, there was a suitably – non-Soup – Curry. The – help yourself – Toppings of Green Chillies and Fresh Coriander soon came into play.
One does not come to this part of the Northern Quarter to experience Earth-shatteringly Wonderful Curry, but to take on Bunkers at very agreeable prices. The Fayre is simple and satisfying.
An hour or so later Hector was back, technically it was now Saturday. I had bade – Farewell – to The Company. Lancaster was their next City Stopover, Bury for Hector, IQ at The Met.
The (Takeaway) Menu was briefly studied. Where was the – Hector Curry? I decided to consult The Chap at the counter who appeared most biddable.
A Steel Karahi contained the Hector Curry, no plastic plate required. Take a look at this Lamb Karahi, this was far from a Northern Quarter Curry, closer to the Yorkshire Interpretation. A metal spoon was placed alongside the Paratha, so much better than a plastic fork. The Paratha was served – Whole – everything was going Hector’s way.
The First Dip had me won, this Lamb Karahi had so much more Flavour than that savoured at the 
This was a Misleading Curry in terms of Content. With the Meat cut Small, the Dozen Pieces I could see looked Adequate. I was halfway through and could still see a Dozen Pieces of Lamb. Hector had been misled, this Portion was Huge. The Meat was decidedly – Mutton – it is always pleasing to taste – Lamb – and not the Bland Flesh served in too many venues.
Three nights in Manchester, there has to be a visit to 
The Menu is not what it was last year when I came at Lunchtime, then there was no question of the availability of their Wonderful Karahi. I cannot eat a Kilo, this is what was on offer. If I had 70p knocked off the price of a Craft Beer last night, I can negotiate a Portion of Karahi. I asked for a Half Kilo. Mein Host told me this was for two people. Has he not seen us eat? He said he would provide a Portion for one. A Paratha (£1.25) completed the Order. £1.25!
News from the USA is all over the Media presently, something Big is due to happen tomorrow. I was quite engrossed when Mein Host brought the meal. How Pale is this Lamb Karahi? Namkeen flashed through my mind, it would not be far from it.
The Buttery Flavours hit the spot, this was a totally – in your face – Karahi. That it was served on a plate felt odd. Nevertheless, this was the Real Thing.
What came looked remarkably similar to the Curry served 
I was thoroughly enjoying this Lamb Balti but then thought how it could be even better. Achari is not on their Board. Some Lime Pickle would have enhanced this Dish, it would most certainly suit what they serve.
The Bill
I took my plateful, carefully, back to the bench which was filling up. The Clientele were varied, Suits, all types, one thing stood out – No Women! This was as close to a Saloon in a Western as I have encountered. I wonder how many days a week the nearby workers frequent these premises? Do they have a Favourite? Do they rotate?
The Spice level was decidedly – Medium, below even. The Seasoning was unremarkable, there was nothing here to become excited about, there was nothing really to criticise – It is what it is.
Walking in around midnight, a few Chaps were in situ, Mags admitted she would never come to such a venue on her own, this is another Curry Cafe, nothing pretentious here. The Chaps who were already dining were happy to see us, each acknowledged us before we went up to the counter to order.
Both Curry dishes bore no resemblance to the Shorva Curry served throughout the Northern Quarter, maybe this is Ancoats, things are different here. The Masala was Minimal as asked and suitably Thick. Initially the Tender Lamb felt a bit – Chewy – but perhaps this was a rogue piece, thereafter all was well. The Meat was also cut – small – almost – Bradford Small, and there was certainly enough of it. There was an undertone of the Bradford Curry Taste, more Seasoning and it would have been closer still.
The Chapattis need a special mention. They were piping hot on arrival, and had great girth, these were tremendous, and one was certainly enough.
So keen was The Hector to get started, the ritual photos were almost forgotten. Behold a Hector with lips covered in Masala, enjoyment.
The plastic plates and forks were a bit of a let-down, it cannot be difficult to provide crockery. Still, we both know we have found a reliable source of Curry late at night in Manchester, something which has been missing in this particular area.
Arriving before 14.00, the place was empty. A couple of Takeaway Customers was all that would be seen during our time here. The same Chap as always was in situ. If Hector was recognised, nothing was being given away, however, the welcome was friendly, especially to – the Mother.
Koftae Karahi (£7.50) and Chapatti (70p) plus Lamb Bhuna (£6.00) with Boiled Rice (£1.75), this is Cheaper than 
The wait was as described, a Modest Salad and Raita were assembled but not presented until the Mains
As ever, Mother touched the plate of Boiled Rice to test its temperature, no comment. The Quantity was more than The Mother of Hector would manage, but as her Main would never be finished, a Takeaway was already in the bag. The Lamb Bhuna had the anticipated Thick Masala, the presence of Tomato cooked in was a welcome bonus. The Meat had the columnar, fibrous texture which restaurateurs have assured me – is Lamb. Mother was set.
The Boiled Egg on the Koftae Karahi stood out, the Masala looked identical to the Bhuna but markedly different from that served last time. The folded Chapatti was a good size, had girth, like the Egg, one would be enough.
Mother was impressed by her Lamb Bhuna from the start. Delicious – was stated instantly. When Mein Host came over to make the – customary check – Mother added further positive feedback:
Paratha Bramborava (75Kc) had to be Aloo Paratha, I had to have one just so as I could ask for this. Steve would have a Paratha Tradicini (55Kc), no need to translate this.
Mein Host was keen to take us through the translations of the various Solids to go in the Masala. Jehneci is Lamb, note to self for future visits to Praha. For The Hector, Jehneci Bhuna (235Kc) without Paprikou, for Steve – Jehneci Madras (225Kc).
The Soup came in a Bucket. After a quick taste, Steve added a mass of Salt, naughty boy. It must have needed it. Too thin – it has Cumin Seeds. It’s as if they have just been chucked in …. the Soup needs more cooking to infuse and reduce it. The Garlic tastes raw.
The Chilli Drizzled plates with Garnish were set before us. Steve’s Lamb Madras was first to be served, followed quickly by the Lamb Bhuna. We had time to take in the Rich, Deep Colour of the Masala. Behold the Parathas! The Aloo Paratha was served – Quartered, always annoying. The Plain Paratha was Spectacular. The Layers and Flakiness were apparent, Steve highlighted the Swirl in the Paratha. This was a Perfect Paratha.
I had to ask if Steve was experiencing the same – Levels of Pleasure. The reply was a confirmation. The Lamb had been Marinaded, in Vinegar, I theorised later as we walked up to the Metro station. Great preparation had gone into this, then as the Hector Palate adjusted to the fact this Lamb was giving and not taking, a Blast of Lamb Flavour itself. This was Wonderful, this is how All Curry should be and so rarely is. This Curry had the Wow!
Did I mention Steve had Eight pieces of Meat? The Lamb Madras was Meat and Masala which I try to avoid, this is Steve’s preference.
How often does Hector order Dessert? We were in a truly Happy Place, why not savour the moment?
A Bottle of Wine was brought to the table to take away. This had to be declined due to the restrictions of hand luggage. Shots were then offered, and accepted.
A Hot and Spicy Shot, a first. Two shots were poured leaving enough in the Pot for a third. Chilli and Malibu was our guess.
By this time, Ricky and Stewart had already ordered the Soup (35Kc) from the Lunchtime Menu. They would have Chicken Madras (140Kc) also. Steve and Hector ordered a la carte. Lamb Madras (245Kc) and a Paratha (65Kc) for Steve, Hector felt the need to try something different. I had the 
The Soup arrived quickly and was well received by both participants. Ricky remarked that one does not often see Soup available. There’s all sorts of stuff in here – fennel – was Stewart’s observation. So far so good.
Steve and Hector were sentenced to watching The Chaps eat their Main Course a good while before our Dishes arrived. The Chicken Madras was everything The Rickmeister would avoid at home, it too was – Soup. The verdict was decidedly positive. Physically hot – was Stewart’s immediate contribution.
At first glimpse, the Naan looked decidedly – Plain – however, Cumin Seeds were embedded. The Chaps from Yorkshire were well impressed by the Lunchtime Menu.
Real spices – this is good – said Steve. He was also impressed by the Paratha which was presented in an interesting manner but appeared to lack Layering and Flakiness.
Ricky wondered if I would ever get started on my Lamb Rezela such was the extent of note taking. The Rice looked Massive, half was decanted to the plate. As I spooned on the Yogurt-laden Masala I thought I could smell Coconut. If there was any, it was Minimal, though the Masala did have an underlying Sweetness. Eight good sized pieces of Tender Lamb were somewhat lost in the Melange of Rice and Masala. One may have to admit that this style of Curry is probably better with Chicken. The Lamb gave off no Spice or any Flavour which disappointed, it may as well have been Chicken. Mild to start, the Spice did come through eventually as did the full Aromatic Flavour. Four very pale Cardamom Seeds were encountered. Onions were mixed through the Rice along with Mushrooms, the rest was moved to the plate and smothered with the remaining Masala. It took a while, but all was consumed. I indeed had found Something Different.
The Bill