A week in España and only one Curry. There are no Curry Houses in Salamanca which is perhaps just as well because Hector and Marg would have been ordering – Gambas – and wondering why we ended up with Prawns. The Curryspondents have set us on the right path to Lamb – Cordero. Salamanca needs a Curry House, Hector cannot live by Paella alone, too Spanish.
Many Sources assured me that there would be ample Curry to be had in Madrid. Hotel Liabeny is located seconds from Puerto del Sol and therefore just north of the Curry House Cluster leading down to Lavapies. Soon after we had checked in we were off in search of Proper Food.
One would be tempted to say spoiled for choice, but as I have next to no experience of Spanish Curry this could be premature. Walking the length of Calle de Lavapies we passed one, two, three, four…the exteriors were photographed, most were open even though at 17.30 it was far too early for Spaniards to be out – to dine. The Menus are displayed outside in English-Indian, the price of a Main Course is typically €8.00. Some venues only had Set Meals posted, we were searching for something Punjabi. Staff were acting as half-hearted Touts at some venues as they sat on the pavement adjacent to doorways.
Sonali Indian Restaurant (Calle de Lavapies, 34, 28012 Madrid, España) had Lamb Karahi, in we went. We were The Lone Diners. A table for two was taken at the rear of the Curry Cafe which probably sat about thirty if ever full. The Waiter, who would later be revealed as Mein Host, brought the Laminated Menus.
It was not yet Bier o’clock and so we stuck to Agua con Gas at €1.50 for a half litre bottle. A Complimentary Poppadom with Mint and Tamarind Dips arrived soon after.
For Hector it had to be Lamb Karahi (€6.90) with a Keema Naan (€2.00) and an Aloo Gobi €4.00). The latter was in the Vegetable section, the price suggested a Side, we shall see, literally.
Marg went back to her favourite – Chicken Butter (€6.50) with Mushroom Fried Rice (€3.00). She expected the Butter Chicken to be Soupy and so knew Rice would be a better option than her customary Chapatti (€2.00).
Google Translate had been set up before we had entered – Salsa espesa y sin Capsicum. This instruction was shown in Spanish and spoken in English, – Thick Sauce and no Capsicum. Accepted.
Mein Host returned as we were finishing the Poppadom with a Menu. They were out of Keema. Paratha (€2.50) please – I said without consulting the Menu. I had actually wanted a Paratha but had ordered the Keema Naan just to see what came. As Curryspondent Ed has said in the past, the things Hector does for the benefit of The Reader.
Chicken Butter
The Chicken Butter looked exactly as one would expect, the Metal Bowls did not look Large but would prove to be deceptive. The Mushroom Rice looked Wonderful, but we agreed the Mushrooms came from a Tin.
The Rice was shared, more than enough for two. Spring Onions were present too, this was a Decent Accompaniment.
Marg counted seven pieces of Chicken but then said she had to cut them as they were all Large. Marg remarked upon the Whiteness of the Chicken as she cut the pieces. Regular Readers know what is coming next – Chicken, the Impermeable Meat, lets no Flavour in. I watched some Oil collect on the edges of the Masala, the Butter Chicken looked as Good as one would get anywhere.
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Sweet, creamy, lots of Chicken – was Marg’s commentary.
Very good, that was lovely – was her concluding statement.
Lamb Karahi
The Masala gave the game away, in what way was this a – Karahi?
Without Capsicum – said Mein Host as he placed it on the table. The Masala was the Standard Indian Masala, it looked as if a Thickener had been applied to make it more Viscous. Decanting the Lamb on top of the Rice, I counted thirteen pieces of Lamb, it most certainly was Lamb. The Full Flavour of the Tender Meat emerged, the irregular cut also confirmed the veracity of the Meat as my mind drifted back to the Perfect Cubes in Santander. Ah, Bisto! The first taste was very familiar, actually – Vesta – came out of Hector’s mouth on the first tasting. I was not invited into the kitchen, however, I believe the Spices for the Masala were from the Boxes of Mixed Spice one sees in Asian Grocers. There was no Great Kick, the Seasoning was below what one hopes for.
Aloo Gobi
The Aloo Gobi was everything it should be, Dry with a Thick-Minimal Masala. Again I watched the Oil collect at the sides. The Flavour from the Cauliflower was Immense, cooked to perfection. Under-seasoned was my first reaction until I tackled the plentiful Potatoes, here was the Source of the Salt, tremendous!
The Paratha arrived late, it was a Sensible Size, Layered and Flaky, as good as any Paratha I have enjoyed. Marg too was impressed, we could not finish it, we couldn’t even touch it for a while after it arrived. Do not come to Sonali and miss the Paratha.
By now Hector had his Dream Spanish Meal before him, plentiful Rice, Vegetables, Paratha and Tasty Lamb, the Masala was spooned on top as and when. The Combination of all the Components created a Synergy. Hector was eating Curry, in Spain. I was a Very Happy Old Hector.
The Bill
€25.90. (£22.06). A Fine Price for a most enjoyable meal, and half what we paid in Salamanca last night for dinner.
The Aftermath
Now to go back to Hotel Liabeny to change my t-shirt.
Shots were offered, Bailleys was mentioned, also a Local Liquer. The offer was declined, we had to go back out into the sunshine.
The Calling Card was given to Mein Host and the Curry-Heute Website shown on the Replaceable Samsung which is driving me nuts.
We discussed the Curry, I congratulated him on the Paratha and the Aloo Gobi. Marg at this point went upstairs to use the adequate Servicios. Mein Host was intrigued by my Curry Eating. He said he had worked in the World of Spanish Food and considered it to be all – Grills, we were talking the same language – Curry. He has plans to open another Venue, I informed him that Salamanca has no Curry Houses, he had never heard of Salamanca. I have planted the seed.
The Ritual Photos were completed, a very fine Chap, who needs to discover what Karahi actually is.
The other part of the – V- which makes up the Lavapies Curry House Cluster is on Calle del Ave Maria.
Hail Mary indeed, look what I found…
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I also spotted a venue claiming to serve Punjabi Curry, when does it open?
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The Sonali Indian Restaurant Menu (extracts)
Spain, not a country Hector has visited often. 
There was time to take in the surroundings. The rather obscure entrance gives way to a Bar Area, then one reaches the Dining Area, some of which has been partitioned. The room is Spacious, the tables well spread out, one would not be sitting on top of fellow diners, were there any. Eventually a couple did enter and sat the other side of the Partition.
The Sparkling Water took a time to arrive, the Waiter had to go out and get more, just as well it was quiet. The Drinks were served, Ice and Lemon, Marg’s Water was poured for her.
The order was assembled at the hatch and brought over. Two Negatives hit home immediately. The Lamb Balti was – Soup, the Lamb Karahi had pieces of Capsicum protruding from the Masala. I could have asked for a Dish with a Thick Masala, the Bhuna possibly. Subconsciously perhaps I just wanted to sample what is served as – Curry – at the Taj Mahal.
Capsicum aside, Marg’s Lamb Karahi looked Pretty Good, the Masala Mash was a Authentic as one would receive in any Punjabi Restaurant. The Capsicum was Minimal, the Pieces cut Small. This was not the Onion and Capsicum Stir-fry that too many venues pass off as Karahi.
It looks Sweet, don’t ask me how I can tell – was my enquiry. A slight Sweetness was confirmed.
I ate on, the combination of Masala and Rice proved to be Most Satisfying, it was – Curry. This may not be the Curry I would have hoped for, no doubt the majority of Curry Houses would present this as their norm. It is what I found in 
The Calling Card was given and the Website described. I asked the Waiter what the preferred name was for the venue. Taj Mahal was his very clear response. He informed us that they have been here for fifteen years. A Very Pleasant Chap, there had to be a photo.
Not only Green Capsicum, but Red too. Not just the Offending Ballast, but Loads of it.
Still the Pile of Capsicum grew. The waiter came over to check my progress.
Other matters had to be attended to before the Hector was allowed to have Curry-Heute. A train journey to Bardon Mill was selected as the starting point for our day walk along Hadrian’s Wall. The Tourist Brochure/Map has no scale, no north point, and the map symbols do not match those on the key. 
Mein Host had greeted us at the door and escorted us through to the Tardis-like interior. We were shown to a corner alcove, – much sought after – we were assured. The Menu was incidental. I had already described the (Lamb) Karahi (£9.25) to Marg, I would have the Lamb Methi (£8.95).
Mein Host had to be told that I had chosen this venue because Methi was prominent on the Menu. He took the time to tell us that he is a trained Chef. Prince Harry and Nick Faldo have dined at Saathi, now they can add – Hector – to their list. A Chapati (£1.25) and a Methi Naan (£2.50) completed the Order. No Starters, I suppose we could share, but we both know that the Curry suffers thereafter.
Marg’s Lamb Karahi arrived first – Wow! How many venues present Stir Fry and passed it off as Karahi? This Lamb Karahi looked the real deal. 
It’s the best Lamb Karahi I’ve had for a while – Marg does not order Lamb Karahi that often, I suspect she did so as I had planted the seed, she knew I could then review two of my Favourite dishes at one sitting. One Large Green Chilli is all that was left, the Tender Lamb and all of the Minimal Masala had gone. Marg was hungry, amazing what a four hour walk can do for the appetite. 
The Lamb Methi was presented atop an elaborate candle-lit heater, this too looked menacingly wonderful. The Masala was seriously Thick. The boundary between Masala with copious Methi and Saag/Palak had not been crossed. I had to decant, no way was I touching the red hot irons.
Is it too early to ask? – Mein Host was back.
The First Couple were presented with a Substantial Starter which they must have devoured in great haste, before I knew it, their Mains had arrived. I was kept amused by the lights in the photo on the opposite wall periodically changing. My view of the Bright, Spacious premises was through the mirror which ran the full length of the wall. No Starters? Enquired the other Waiter as he removed the surplus cutlery.
The Bhuna Masala Hansh was worryingly – Red – not more Food Colouring? The Masala was suitably Thick, the Quantity made Rice the correct accompaniment. As the pieces of Duck were decanted, I counted Six, not many I thought. As I addressed the Duck I realised that two pieces at least would require halving. There was enough meat, just. Perhaps the statement above about not requiring a Starter was inappropriate, anyway, not approaching London Portions.
The Spice Level was not a challenge, I had not asked for – Spicy. The Seasoning seemed – under – to begin with, as I progressed so more and more Flavour emerged from the Melange, the level of Seasoning was commendable. The Spring Onion Topping gave the Masala a welcomed – Crunch. I appear to have been writing this with increasing regularity of late. Are Spring Onions replacing Ginger Strips? Cybies may be in season, cheaper… far easier to prepare.
My eyes were still feasting across the table. I had tried some of Marg’s Masala earlier, the same Gritty, earthy Texture that my Duck Dish possessed, though Marg’s was definitely – Sweeter. It was time for me to try the remaining Lamb Chop. One bite… No! Sorry, this does not work after what I have just eaten, too much of a Conflict of Flavour.
Walking from the the Travelodge along Gilesegate and then Claypath, we passed The Capital and the Rajpooth Tandoori, Hector’s objective was the – intimate and family run – Shaheens just outside the Castle. It is closed on a Sunday I discovered, Tuesday Lunchtime may be my only opperchancity now.
We were shown to a table for two at the far end where the seating area narrows. Marg had all the view, counted fourteen fellow diners and estimated the place to be a third full.
The Menu had the Mainstream Array of Curry one expects with a section on Balti also, the latter were a Pound or so dearer for no apparent reason. We both reached the Fish Curry list, at £10.95 for each of our choices, better value. Again, I never understand why Fish Curry can be more expensive than Meat.
On spotting the Karai Ayre (£10.95) – Fillet of Ayre cooked in the karai with green chilli, fresh ginger, garlic, tomatoes, onion and capsicum – it had to be. How many Curry Houses attempt to serve a Fish Karahi? However, the Mainstream was anticipated, no Desi here.
The Karai Ayre was delightfully Pale, reminiscent of the Excellent Machi Masala served at Glasgow’s 
The Macher Molee was Red, very Red. Food Colouring to the fore, and violating one of the key elements of 
Ayre, or Ayer, is Catfish I have now established. There was a slight Sweetness from the Fish as Sources suggest one can expect. It is good to find – Fish – identified, and not just classified as – Masala Fish. The Kick from the Masala was Modest, when the Fresh Green Chillies were bitten into, Gosh! The Curry was lacking in Seasoning, which should not happen with Fish, Freshwater Catfish, is there any other kind? The Quantity of Ayre was Sufficient, again I have been to too many establishments which overcharge for Fish then skimp on the Portion. Despite the Onion Overdose, I had no regrets ordering this, until…
Kenny is on holiday, his long Summer Holiday, and so is free in the daytime pro tem. He proposed a Curry Rendezvous, I proposed a new venue.
I phoned on my way into town and discussed our options. The Handi Gosht is sold in two quantities: £10.99 for a Regular Portion, £16.99 for Large. This is a system I endorse whenever it is encountered.
Whoever was on the other end of the phone convinced me that a Large Portion would be enough for two to share. We are used to sharing a Kilo of Lamb on-the-bone, just how large – Large – would be… no weight was mentioned. The phone-call was otherwise very precise, the portion size, Lamb, on-the-bone, Spicier than Medium, 16.00.
I suggested we have Mixed Vegetable Curry (£6.50) to accompany. This should lead to – The Excess – we are used to. I particularly enjoyed the Mixed Vegetables I had on my 
The Portion of Spiced Onions was quite Modest.
The Large Handi Gosht had more than enough Tender Lamb to share. The Masala was the Thick Mash that only the Very Best of venues can serve. The Vegetable Oil was collecting around the edges of the Karahi, can’t wait to dip.
The Mixed Vegetable Curry was served on a Plate, not a Karahi as before, a clearly Different Masala. The two Chapattis were served in a basket, Normal Chapattis, – Floury – is how Marg now describes them.
The Mixed Vegetable Curry simply did not Compete or really Complement. Potatoes, Carrots, Aubergine, Courgette and possibly Turnip all featured. The Aubergine was a Mush which gave the entire Dish the sense of being Overcooked. Aniseed was a Flavour encountered momentarily. The Spice Level was equal to the Handi, the Seasoning decidedly less. The lack of Seasoning and the too Soft Vegetables tempered the impact. The Mixed Vegetable Curry was Excellent when 
Marg was reminded that she enjoyed the Bhuna Gosht (£11.95) 
The Bhuna Gosht is what impressed so much on 
At Ambal’s the Masala is Seriously Thick and Minimal, as Dry a Curry as The Hector would hope for. Both Marg and Sandy considered their Bhuna Gosht to be – Too Dry. Unbelievable, we all have our preferences, for me – this is as good as it gets.
The Chicken Tikka Masala did not resemble the Tomato Soup Monstrosity that is served in the majority of establishments. This had a Proper Masala. Criss-crossed with what looked like Cream, this was a Worthy Curry. Tracey was impressed by – the Meaty Sauce. Less mass produced – was her second contribution. One wonders if people are disappointed when they are not presented with Cream of Tomato Soup? Other Restaurants should take note, Ambal’s have set a new Standard in Chicken Tikka Masala.
The others were given a Dinner Plate before their Mains, Hector was given a spoon! Surely I was not about to receive – Soup? The Karaikudi Yera Thokku was presented in a Large Soup Plate, fortunately the Masala was suitably Thick. Three Prawns for £15.95? I dug out a fourth, much better. Aye right. This was not what I had seen on my 
The Peas Pilao was spooned on top of my Masala, time to eat. Hang on, something was missing. After a few minutes it was apparent that the Hara Payaz Aloo was not coming. A Waiter was informed, he returned and admitted they had – messed up. It would come.
The Hara Payaz Aloo was finally presented. This was shared with Sandy who by now needed something to complement his Dry Curry. My reason for ordering, this Vegetable Curry is also served in a Thick and Minimal Masala. The Seasoning was a bit below the hoped for level, the embedded Spring Onion plus the Onion Topping provided – The Crunch. Adding Diversity to the Dining Experience, this is a very good Accompaniment.
Mein Host informed us that Dessert would be provided. Gulab Jamun arrived in an instant. Was this as an apology for the late arrival of the Hara Payaz Aloo, or because they had finally recognised that the visit would be reviewed on the 
The Menu was in three parts, a Lunch Menu, the Main, and a Pre-Theatre (£9.95). Lunch ended at 14.00, it was now Pre-Theatre time. Normally I do not consider these – Offers – in fear that the Portion Size suffers. Achari Balti only appeared in the Pre-Theatre Menu. In the past two days I have had Karahi Gosht and Keema Mutter Aloo, both at the 
The Lahore Fish Pakora had me won instantly. Four Large Pieces, twice what one would receive in the West End. Encased in a Fresh Coriander-rich Spicy Batter, this was as Light as only Fish Pakora could be. The Seasoning was Perfect. The Spicy Dip was accompanied by a Soupçon of Salad containing Cucumber, Radish, Carrot, Tomato, Lemon, Capsicum, Onion and Lettuce. This was a very well presented Starter, thoroughly enjoyable.
The Masala was suitably Thick, more than I would normally desire, hence the Rice to soak it up. The Pickle Flavour was not in-the-face, but was there. The Spice and Seasoning were were within acceptable parameters, here comes the – But. It was obvious that the Lamb and Masala were strangers until a few minutes previously, there was no sense of Spice or Flavour having been infused into the Meat. This was Lamb with a Sauce rather than the hoped for experience. This is what I call a Mainstream Curry.
It is Day two of the
In the time it took to make the Chapatti, the Meal was ready and brought over. It was strange to be eating from a Bowl instead of my normal Karahi. The Large pieces of Potato and the Liberal Fresh Coriander stood out, here we go. Mince, Potatoes and Peas, it’ll never catch on. There was the most Minimal Oil present, and no Masala, as Dry as Curry can be, however, there was still an underlying Moistness, Perfect.
The Bill