München – Indian Mango – A Different Interpretation

I do go on about it, just a bit, so you can guess what’s coming … in the words of a famous Prog Track – I like to be here when I can.

Indian Mango (Zweibrückenstraße 15, 80331, München, Deutschland), the Curry House that set the standard for both Lamm and Fisch Chettinad : B.C-H.

Lord Clive and Lady Maggie (Crawley) had the dawn flight from Gatwick to München, Dr. Stan arrived in the city by train, around the same time that Hector was landing at the Flughafen. A rendezvous at Indian Mango was mooted, however, once Augustiner’s charms have come into vogue, who would leave? They didn’t.

Hector arrived at Isartor at the declared 18.20, the – Lone Diner. There was no sign of Her Battra, the co-manager – Rakes – recognised me as I entered. A table at the rear was allocated, the menu was not even glanced at, tonight: Fish Chettinad (€14.00), plus a Sparkling Water (€3.00). Why have Bier here?

Whilst waiting, I studied the menu, no inflation in Deutschland since my last visit in April last year? Another solo diner was sat mid-room, he had a somewhat rich looking Curry; what, I shall never know, despite him still being present as I departed. Evidently, he was savouring the moment. And why not?

Rakes brought the Order. The Rice portion which felt OTT a decade ago would be manageable. This is Europe, who can eat all that Rice?

Fish Chettinad

The oblong plate was different, as were the contents. The quantity impressed, I have previously commented upon the paucity of the portion. I decanted five large pieces of Fish, as in seriously large. I was left with a Thick Masala, interesting.

In the years – Before Curry-Heute – the Fisch Chettinadu – was approaching – Soupy – as it is served across the planet. Having discussed this with Mr. Jolly, in time the classic, almost – stir-fry – version evolved. New Chef, was the immediate conclusion. However, as I ate, one of the two long standing Chefs passed by and smiled in recognition. Is this the new version or, did he not know who he was cooking for? Tomorrow’s Lamm Chettinad may reveal all.

The blast of Flavour from the Fish headed off any sign of disappointment. Thick Fish, integrity maintained, white, perhaps if I look back through a well known and reliable Curry Blog, I’d be able to offer a name for the species?

The Spice would build steadily. The Seasoning was fine if only the whole Dish had been hotter. Green Cardamom, I left two, swallowed one. The customary – smokiness – was there, but less intense.

The Masala was a revelation. That there was one came as surprise. Was this possibly the Fish Curry (€13.00)? The Texture revealed the pedigree, one does not stumble across this. Having flaked the Fish, the relative ratios of – Fish-Masala-Rice – worked well. Again, if only the Dish had been hotter on arrival.

Rakes checked on my progress, who was I to say this was radically different, yet a horse clearly from the same stable. A ringer? A damn fine Fish Curry, but not the Chettinadu of old.

The Bill

17.00 (£14.98)   Indian Mango used to feel expensive, British inflation has changed that perception.

The Aftermath

Rakes intimated that Herr Battra has gone. Chef remains the last remnant of the original Jolly Kunjappu days. Chef did engage at the counter as I paid. I attempted to convey the difference as described above, tomorrow should reveal all.

Rakes clearly remembered me from my last visit, Marg too.

Tomorrow, Clive and Maggie plan to accompany. Dr. Stan should still be recovering from Frühstuck.

 

 

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Glasgow – Shahi Mahal – This was – Curry

Monday lunch, it was too soon to return to Yadgar or Karahi Palace. In the small hours the notion developed, no Karahi for Hector, let’s go back to Shahi Mahal (452 Cathcart Rd., Govanhill, Glasgow G40 7B2) and have – what’s on offer. Something regularly experienced at Yadgar , but never at Karahi Palace.

On the bus across the Clyde, I watched Sky News on the trusty Oppo. Scotland’s new First Minister was being announced, what a time they took to do so, prolonging the moment. Without further ado… an oft quoted line, why have any – ado?

Scotland now has a First Minister of Pakistan heritage, whilst in that London, there is a Prime Minister of Indian heritage. Partition soon?

I arrived at Shahi Mahal at 14.20, it’s Ramadan, few other customers were anticipated. The – friend – of Zahir I met last time was manning the show. No sign of Zahir, Mein Host, today, though I did hear constant chopping coming from the kitchen. Someone was being kept busy.

Friend – talked me through the Dishes on display. Aloo Gosh (£7.50) with Rice (£2.50) was duly ordered. Again, I quote the Takeaway prices, though Rice is included with the Curry in that format. The wait was not long, a quick reheat.

I was pleased that Pilao had been provided, with Coriander mixed through. The portion was huge, enough to share. Salad and Raita were again presented, one pays for these, not Complimentary, as is the usually the case in the Glasgow Curry Cafes. The Salad was chilled, fresh, and the Raita added even more pleasure. Tasty Raita, keep it coming.

Aloo Gosh

Simply adding Potato to Curry does not make Aloo Gosht. The authentic version, as featured here, has Shorva. It was at Sheerin Palace, Zahir’s previous place of employment, that Hector grew to appreciate that Shorva has its merits.

I decanted the Lamb, served – on-the-bone – to the plate of Pilau. Three pieces of Potato, the Meat count was into double figures, a substantial portion, more than that served at the western end of Allison Street. I kept half of the Shorva back for the end game, otherwise the Rice may have absorbed all the liquid too soon.

The Meat varied from Tender to a bit chewy, a big Lamb Flavour burst onto the palate. There was Spice, there was Seasoning, there was Flavour. On addressing the Shorva-soaked Rice, – Mmmmm – lovely. Both the Meat and the Potatoes had absorbed the Flavours from the Shorva, hence they both had a lot to give back. One simply does not experience this in the – Curry – served in the Mainstream Restaurants.

My final note was on the Shorva, the Seasoning here was simply superb, as a consequence, the Flavours were immense. This was – Curry.

I was in a quandary, stop and take the excess Rice home, or eat on and do my best. The ongoing pleasure was such that I adopted the latter. Hopefully what I had to abandon did not disrespect those who will have to wait until 19.45 to eat today.

The Bill

£13.00    I had eaten well, for a modest sum.

The Aftermath

The Flavours lingered long on the palate. That was a wonderful Aloo Gosht.

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Aberdeen – Rehmat’s Restaurant – Amazing Curry, Amazing Value!

In December, after the first visit to Rehmat’s Restaurant (249 George St., Aberdeen AB25 1ED Scotland), I promised Graeme that I would be back in Aberdoom before the end of April for another Curry at this impressive venue. Marg and Hector met Graeme outside Rehmat’s at the arranged 18.30 in the gloom of twilight. The clocks go forward this weekend, why? It’s already getting brighter in the evenings. Do we need the sun to set even later? Leave our clocks alone!

Graeme has only ever had a Takeaway from Rehmat’s and had never been – through the back – where the Curry House lies. The Ice-Cream Shop at the front is appropriately – garish – and, in effect, obscures the presence of the Indian Restaurant. For those who have never been to Rehmat’s, the back room definitely lacks ambience compared to the more pukka Aberdeen establishments. Spartan – may well be an apposite description. However, Curry-Heute is all about the Fayre, and that the Hector was back in Aberdoom primarily to visit Rehmat’s should tell all.

Two chaps were sat, separately, waiting for Takeaway? The staff were conspicuous by their absence. We stood and waited to be sat. We waited, and waited some more. After what was an age, a young waitress showed us to the same table we had occupied in December. Tonight, no noisy teenagers, no large party at the far end of the room. In time, Mein Host chatted to one of the two chaps, a Burger had been ordered. The other departed, that was it until a group of lads arrived, for – Curry. There was a feeling of isolation throughout our visit.

Hector was here for the Fish Karahi (£7.95) which Marg enjoyed in December. Then Hector had but a Soupçon, the attraction on Visit #1 being the worthy Punjabi Goshat (£8.95) served – on-the-bone. There was no surprise this evening when Marg chose Keema Peas (£7.95) with a Chapatti (£0.95). A Chapatti for under £1.00 in Aberdoom, take note! For Graeme, Bhindi Ghost (£9.50), as expensive as Curry gets at Rehmat’s.

I advised Graeme that the Naan (£2.50) had not impressed last time, Rice could be the better option. So that he could taste his Curry without distraction, Graeme chose Plain Rice (£2.50). The alternative was Spicy pulao (£2.95), my choice. Ideally, a Vegetable Rice would have been chosen, however, the list of Accompaniments is limited.

Despite the Fish Karahi being in the – Desi – section of the menu, I asked for – Extra Desi – which the waitress translated as – Spicy.

A large bottle of Sparkling Water was not available. Tap Water was offered, accepted. Last time we secured 330ml bottles of Sparkling Water (£2.45), why these were not forthcoming this evening shall never be known. 

Marg squeezed in a glass of Mango Lassi (£2.30).

Hector’s most frequented venues tend not have waiting staff. When venues employ youngsters, one wishes the management would make them au fait with what is on offer and the tweaks that may be asked for. This was a recurring issue in early visits to the nearby Lahore Karahi, the only other source of authentic Punjabi Cuisine in Aberdeen.

We waited over thirty minutes, in the eerily quiet premises, until hot plates were provided. Mein Host, who had engaged us at length last time, was never seen again. A pity, he may well have appreciated Review #1.

The Chapatti was served whole, made from Wholemeal Flour and did the job. The Rice portions were substantial, Graeme would manage most and chose to use his dinner plate. Hector looked at the Spicy Rice, let’s add the Curry on top.

*

*

*

Fish Karahi

I knew what to expect and was not disappointed. Nowhere else in Scotland, i.e.  reviewed in Curry-Heute, is serving Fish Karahi of this quality and at this price. Bradford prices!

I counted seven spoons piled high with Fish and Masala as I decanted the contents of the pot. This was twice the volume of the Fish Curry served at Travancore and at half the price.

Who needs ambience?

The Fish was flaked, some pieces were still quite large. A Dry Fish Curry, why is this so difficult to source? There was enough Masala, just enough to consider this to be a Curry, however, it was Karahi, a different species and this was as fine an example as one can find. The Spice Level was not OTT, sliced Green Chillies had been stirred in. The Seasoning was noted as – fine – but after Saturday’s experience at Shahi Mahal (Glasgow), only a Buttery was going to taste – Salty. If there was a scale of – Fishiness – then this Karahi would score highly.

The expansive Rice proved to be a decent accompaniment. The Spice was subtle, and provided an extra source of Flavour. Vegetables would have added a further dimension, Vegetable Biryani is not the menu. I had to employ a strategy to ensure that I would always have Fish and Rice. The overall quantity, decidedly satisfying, every grain of Rice was consumed. I will admit that the imagination kicked in, the addition of Dried Smoked Red Chillies, or Smoked Paprika, and this Fish Karahi could have matched the ultimate Chettinad at – Indian Mango (München).

A Fish Karahi that tastes of Fish, suitably Spiced and Seasoned. How many miles has the Hector travelled to find this over the years? Here it is, in Aberdeen.

Keema Peas

Again, a Dry Curry, Keema does not need but a sense of Masala. There was a threat of Coriander, and no trace of peripheral Oil. No Soupçon for Hector whose palate had been taken in a different direction, however this appeared to be an excellent Keema. Marg:

A good helping of Keema. Fresh Peas, not soggy, and a reasonable kick to complete the dish.

Bhindi Ghost

If further proof that Rehmat’s serve authentic, and not – Soupy Curry – was required, then surely this photo says it all. The minimal Masala again appeared to be Tomato-based, suitably Thick, a joy to behold. The large pieces of Lamb protruding proved to be ample. I was keen to establish if the Okra was rubbery, get it wrong and this otherwise Interesting Vegetable can be destroyed. Graeme reported all was well – This is very good – was an early comment, then finally:

The Curry was excellent, the lamb was very well cooked, as was the okra.

With four different choices reviewed over two visits, it is fair to conclude that Hector’s instincts proved to be correct. This could well be the best place for Curry in Aberdeen. Next time Karahi Lamb (£8.95) will have to be tested, can the – wealth of ingredients – exclude the dreaded Capsicum?

Next time? It could be a while, for Hector the avoidance of – babies – is paramount, and the next generation of the family are intent on reproduction.

No dogs, no sprogs.

In the meantime, I suggest the locals enjoy Rehmat’s Curry at these very competitive prices. I doubt they are sustainable at a time when food inflation, by empirical observation, is running close to 20%.

We’re not finished, Marg ordered Ice-Cream. Ice-Cream and Mango Lassi? Did Marg think we were at an Ice-Cream Parlour?

The Bill

£34.10 The Ice-Cream was charged, hence paid separately, in the front room.

The Aftermath

Lots of smiles from the front room staff as we departed, a pity we never had the opperchancity to talk to Mein Host once again.

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Glasgow – Shahi Mahal – “The Works”

Shahi Mahal (452 Cathcart Rd., Govanhill, Glasgow G40 7B2), in the heart of Govanhill, Glasgow’s – Southside Curry Quarter, is a new addition to the Lahori/Punjabi Curry scene. Discovered on Monday, Hector was straight in to investigate. Zahir, Mein Host, instantly recognised Hector, Rashid at Karahi Palace introduced his friend a year or so back. Zahir is the former Chef at Sheerin Palace, the second of their Chefs to go it alone, Ahmed at Darbar Grill being the other. There is a long history of the Allison Street Chefs moving around.

A day of intense showers in Glasgow, Hector took refuge at Shahi Mahal at 14.00. Zahir was in the same spot, accompanied by a friend. Initially, this appeared to be a one man show, though during my stay, two more staff arrived.

Hector was here for – The Works – a half kilo of Lamb Karahi (£16.00) from the – Desi Asian Style – section of the menu. As these pages record, when done properly, this is the King of Curry. Although not listed on the menu, a Coriander Naan would accompany, plus a Mango Rubicon (£1.00). (The prices quoted are from the Takeaway Menu.) I note the – Desi – section of the menu is not on the electronic display boards. Unlike SW17, Burgers and Pizza are on the menu, this is what the kids go for, a change from what they have at at home.

Before settling down to watch the end of The Famous beating Motherwell on the trusty Oppo, I asked permission to take photos of the premises. Shahi Mahal is the only proper sit-in Curry House on Cathcart Rd., though Waris will squeeze you in at nearby Deira Lahore.

Just after 14.20, the feast began to assemble on the table. Twenty odd minutes to transform pre-cooked Lamb into a Karahi. The Naan was wonderful. Large, with thick edges, sporadic holes towards thinner centre, plenty of burnt blisters, and served – whole! Why ruin a Naan by cutting it up? Behold the splendour.

A Modest Salad and Raita were provided, these would provide a minor distraction during the main event. Zahir eventually would bring more cutlery, I would have managed with the spoon provided for the Karahi.

Lamb Karahi

Fortunately, pictures can paint a thousand words which is better for both Hector and the reader. This was exactly what was hoped for, expected even. The sheer quantity was indulgence, defeat staring me in the face from the outset. It had to be, a portion (£9.00) would not have made the same impact. The customary Ginger Strips and fresh Coriander were complemented by sliced Bullet Chillies. The latter would boost the moderate Spice Level as and when required.

Seasoning! It was there, and at the level I refer to as – brave. It has to be thus else the true Flavours never appear. This Karahi was nothing short of spectacular. One cannot help but make comparisons, the warmth of Flavour that Yadgar achieve was not there, the distinctive Karahi Palace experience neither. This was a Karahi which merits its own category. Peppery, if anything, it was closer to DumPukht than those just mentioned. There was ample evidence of the Tomato base, if Onions were here, they had long been dissolved into the Mash. The Meat varied from superbly Tender, to a bit chewy, or was that just the Hector struggling towards the end.

The Masala was in the correct ratio to the Meat, Sucky Bones were here too. Masala on the Naan, Lamb by the spoon, Salad by the fork, this was a fun way to spend the middle of a Saturday afternoon.

Zahir was serving a family that had arrived, he stopped to check up on my progress. I congratulated him on the – Seasoning – he appeared to recognise what I was getting at. I wonder how often Zahir got to cook this at Sheerin Palace?

Towards the end I spotted whole Green Chillies cooked in. The Oil was never more than a residue. Having avoided sharing a kilo for quite some time, I was determined to do this justice. The doggy bag was considered then dismissed, let’s at least finish the Meat. The Naan had long been abandoned, With the last piece of Lamb taken care of, I accepted that the remaining Masala was beyond my capacity. There was no need to cross the peak threshold of pleasure.

What a Karahi Gosht, hopefully, this will be the first of many enjoyed here. It’s up to the troops to say when they wish to join me.

The Bill

£23.00 No complaints. Zahir would have preferred cash, but took a card payment.

The Aftermath

There had to be a photo of Zahir in his new place of work. I enquired about Rashid’s (Karahi Palace) progress, he’s still in Pakistan.

The menu contains – Kashmiri Korma – my other favourite Curry. Alas, there was either a misunderstanding or it is the case that Zahir’s Kormas all have Coconut. Kofta Anda does make an appearance here, it has to, but there appears to be no fixed pattern to what Zahir puts out.

The Vegetable Curry did look enticing, next time.

And was that Daal Makhani?  Mmmm.

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Glasgow – Yadgar – All Our Pleasures at Once

Hector’s early appearance this afternoon at Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) was predictable. One tries to maintain parity with the number of visits to Yadgar and Karahi Palace.   As shall be outlined below, there is also a new player in the Desi Curry game. Who knows, it may be an ace, not a joker?

Marg and Hector arrived at Yadgar for the 14.00 opening. The shutters were still down, but two ladies were already inside waiting for Shafiq to take their Order. We would be the first four customers of the shift, occupying the warm tables at the window. Despite the thermometer displaying 3°C, it was seriously cold outside this afternoon. Today, München Flughafen claimed it was 20°C, I checked, only 18°C in that city. I’ll just leave this here. In time, the shutters were raised, Takeaway customers arrived, seemingly in droves, and eventually a large group to dine in. It was all happening here.

On the drive over, Marg considered her options, to Chapli or not to Chapli. In the end, whatever Keema Curry was available would become her choice: Aloo Keema Mutter with one Chapatti – it was. For Hector, the tried and tested: Chapli, Fish Pakora, and the Vegetable Curry of the day: Aloo Gajar Mutter.

Various Dishes were already on display which makes me wonder what time the door actually opened. However, the piles of Samosas, Chapli & Shami Kebabs, plus the tray of Fish Pakora suggested that this had to be left from the weekend.

Marg approached the counter and added Kashmiri Tea, to be served when ready. As it happens, this came first followed quickly afterwards by the reheated Fish Pakora and two Dips.

Sweet tea with milk, not for Hector, Marg loves it.

Fish Pakora

Served not as hot as I like it, the Fish itself was still fresh, the batter Spicy. Ten pieces, a veritable plateful. Marg would help out, as she did with the quartered Chapli.

Chapli Kebab

I took a nibble, this was light years ahead of my attempt at home last Friday. Chicken, not Lamb, easier to cook. Next time at House of Sher, I’ll look for a Chicken Chapli mix. Spice and Seasoning, the key elements which define – tasty food – were to the fore. The young waiter, who had arrived moments after us, was playing catch up. The two ladies were presented with Aloo Gajar Mutter and Aloo Keema Mutter.

They’re having the same as us – I remarked to Marg.

The ladies look puzzled, not their Order. The penny dropped.

Aloo Keema Mutter

Chicken Mince with Potato and Peas in a minimal Masala, perfection, unless one prefers Lamb Keema. The accompanying Chapatti seemed huge, Marg would manage but a sliver. Hector has abandoned Bread when having the now well established lunch at Yadgar. Marg, inevitably, was finished first:

A full meal with meat, potato and veg. A good spice, chicken was an enjoyable change.

Hector had a dilemma, with three Dishes on the table simultaneously, and the ambient temperature still not what it might be, how to avoid everything being cold? Cut up the remaining Chapli and add it to the Vegetable Curry!

Aloo Gajar Mutter

Marg had Mince, Potatoes and Peas, for Hector – Potatoes Peas and Carrots. I have celebrated this creation oft, particularly in the post-Lockdown era. The Carrots give the most taste via their inherent Sweetness. Add to this the Yadgar Taste from the minimal Masala, and we have a winner. By adding the Chapli, Diversity was enhanced. Was the Hector now having a Chicken Curry?

The mouth was registering way more Spice than envisaged at the outset, synergy? This was a worthy creation, don’t be surprised if it appears again.

In the midst of this eating frenzy, Shkoor Mein Host, had arrived. After the usual exchange of pleasantries, he informed me that two of our former pupils had visited Yadgar. Unfortunately, no names were recalled. Next time, have Shkoor message me there and then. It is promising that the next generation are following in Hector’s footsteps.

The Bill

£15.00 … as managed by Naveed.

A more realistic sum – I proffered.

The Aftermath

On Cathcart Road, I spotted Shahi Mahal in the premises which have caught my eye for many years. This was formerly a Mediterranean food outlet, now we have a proper establishment. Marg let me out to investigate.

Mein Host was sitting, awaiting custom. We recognised each other immediately. I took a menu and promised to return soonest, then I shall confirm from whence he came.

A half kilo of Lamb Karahi (£16.00) should reveal lots. Then there’s the Korma range, is the Kashmiri Korma (£8.50) what I hope it is? Watch this space.  Meanwhile, I note Lahori Chaska,  up the road, has gone.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – Thumbs Up!

From the outset of Curry-Heute in 2010, I have never criticised those who go to their favourite Curry House and have the same thing every week. Why risk disappointment? They don’t – blog.

Not going to Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) at least once a month would be purgatory for Hector. Maybe only once a month is a denial of pleasure. It is written oft that I could eat their Karahi Lamb (£12.00) every day. Well, every other day, the Lamb Korma Spicy (£10.00) is a worthy alternative.

Karahi Lamb

Today’s Karahi Lamb was off the scale. Curry-Heute does not generally do scores, but this was – eleven. Ayaz, Mein Host, and currently Head Chef, had the Seasoning right on the edge. As a consequence, the full Flavours in the Masala were released. There were continuing moments of ecstasy whilst I slowly devoured this Karahi.

Food served so hot, care had to be taken at the start. Beautifully Tender Meat also – giving – of Flavour, So few venues, anywhere, achieve this. The solitary Chapatti (£1.00) was but a means of conveyance. This was all about the contents of the karahi, the abundant Tomato-based Masala. Today’s Karahi was more Oily, even Soupy in comparison to their standard. With only a threat of sliced Green Chillies, the Spice Level was not OTT. By deliberately letting the Coriander and Ginger Strips on top cook in the hot Oil, they added another dimension towards the end. Hector was beside himself today, pleasure in the extreme.

It was the new chap who greeted me on my arrival at 14.20. The Order was relayed, only then did Ayaz appear from the side kitchen. Two tables were occupied. Two chaps at one, what had to be Nihari was possibly being shared along with Seekh Kebab. The chap beside me also had Seekh Kebab. The four of us ate in companionable silence, not a word spoken. Not a morsel left on any plate.

We knew why we were here, as did the fifth diner who took the far table. I fail to comprehend why more people are not. 

As I finished, Ayaz instructed his young colleague to shut the door and lower the shutters.

The Bill

£13.00      No charge today for the Hector tweaks.

The Aftermath

You’re closing?

They had a huge Order for a charity event this evening.

All hands to the pump. I hope this went well.

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Hector Cooks : Vegetable Pakora : Chapli Kebab

A few weeks backs at House of Sher, I purchased 500g of Chapli Kebab mix, effectively Spiced Keema. It was a matter of when to make them, and Hector not living by Chapli alone. Vegetable Pakora felt like a worthy accompaniment. When I told Marg we were having – Starters – for dinner, she was expecting two courses.

The dried ingredients were mixed early afternoon, following my own Vegetable Pakora Recipe precisely. I had forgotten how laborious the fine chopping of both the Onions and Potatoes could be.

Instead of adding the water then, I decided to do this last thing. The batter tends to sweat resulting in the need for more Gram Flour.

The added water was therefore at a minimum, such that there was a definite coherence to the uncooked Pakora blobs. Seven apiece, that should do.

The Oil in the deep fat fryer was – old – Pakora works better in new Oil, however it can leave messy floaters. One takes one’s chances. The results were a bit – doughy – however, Marg was happy with what was served. I know I can do better, more water in the batter next time, and filter new Oil afterwards.

Pakora Sauce 1 – was also prepared: rich and creamy with a hint of a kick. This makes a change from the usual Raita served in Cury Houses. Of the three elements to this meal, the Pakora Sauce may have been the most successful, the leftovers should appear in a Pasta Dish later.

The Pakora Sauce was a pronounced success.


I used my Hamburger maker to form near perfect patties. Chapli Kebap are usually served thinner. Again,  I would take the risk.

The Chapli, although on a low heat, would not cook through. I now know why they are flattened. Steak Tartare is not on our menu, back they went onto the pan. Suitably Spiced, better, but this was third division stuff in comparison to Yadgar’s excellence. I feel another visit there is overdue.

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Glasgow – Glassy Central – The Pedigree is Evident

Free of domestic duties, Hector was able to fill in one of the few blanks in the coverage of Curry Houses in Glasgow. As reported previously, it was Dr. Stan who spotted Glassy Central (285 Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow G2 3HQ) as we walked past a few weeks back. With no shop frontage, Glassy Central is easy to miss, a la The India Club (Westminster) visited last week. That they have suspended lunchtime opening, scheduling a review here was going to be difficult, how often does Hector have Curry of an evening? But hey-ho, today was that day.

Arriving at 17.30, that I was going to a basement venue surprised. Having looked into the darkness previously, I thought Glassy Central was an upstairs venue. So what was here before? The cordon, at the doorway during opening times, hopefully does attract some attention, in addition to the now illuminated signage.

What a pukka place, it’s amazing how mirrors can create the sense of vastness. The booths along the far wall allow flexibility in seating. Central tables separate these from the long bar.

Having looked online at the time of discovery, I found reference to Glassy Central being – Scotland’s first Desi Pub. Bar & Grill – is also how they promote themselves. Do people really go to Indian Restaurants for drinks? In Europe this is commonplace, something new for Glasgow. Adjacent to my table were taps pouring – cocktails – the far end of the bar had various lager taps including one Bier from CzechiaPravha (Staropramen). Also on tap, Aspall Cider, now we’re talking. Hector ordered a bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.00).

Mein Host brought the menu, a mature chap, I wondered if our paths had crossed before.  A three course meal (£11.95) was also on offer.

I already knew what I was here for, – Desi – was one attraction, also – Lamb on-the-bone – such a rarity in restaurant Curry. Chef’s Special Lamb on the bone (£8.95) was ordered with Special Rice (£2.95) accompanying. I had to ask what Vegetables were with the Rice – Peas, Carrots... – just to ensure that no Peppers would be served. There was no discussion about Spice Level for the Curry, but then – amateurus eateris – would hardly order this.

The price of main courses in this city centre restaurant is certainly a plus. Of course, I hadn’t seen the portion size, or the price of cocktails etc. £7.50 for the other Lamb Dishes makes a mockery of the Merchant City. £1.00 here for a Chapatti is honourable, realistic. I note their Karahi features the dreaded Capsicum, maybe on a future visit, this can be discussed and withheld. The Takeaway Menu I picked up at the door does not feature Lamb Karahi or the Lamb on-the-bone, one can ask, unlike…

Two young acquaintances were in München last week. On my recommendation they went to Indian Mango, the source of the finest Fish Chettinad ever encountered. It wasn’t on the lunchtime menu – was relayed back. It’s not on any menu! Ask! Any establishment which cannot cook to order is suspect, hence my general avoidance of chains who may have robots in their kitchens.

A couple, clearly known to Mein Host, were sat in the adjacent booth. It was only then I realised that there were mirrors at (sitting) head height. I was losing my bearings, more customers arrived but from where? I had no idea where the route to the stairs lay. Note to Hector, on leaving, do not walk into the kitchen. Sparkling Water.

The Curry was brought first, what a mound of Meat and Masala. Brimming. The Special Rice looked modest in comparison. Peas and Carrots were there along with Green Beans, two types. Proper Vegetables, not the abomination which Dr. Stan ordered at the aforementioned – The India Club.

I arranged the Rice on the plate, this was not for sharing, a sensible portion for one.

Chef’s Special – Lamb on the bone

Topped with Coriander and sliced Green Chillies, a – kick – was anticipated. On placing my spoon in the Masala, the peripheral Oil spilled on to the table, well that was that taken care of. The next dig hit rock bottom. Commensurate with the mass of mirrors, the actual Curry pot was the same size as the Rice. There was a stand beneath with place for a candle, no candle.

I counted the Meat as I decanted, the magic eight, including three large bones shrouded in Lamb. Maybe as per – The India Club – three portions between two could be a consideration, but if one had a Starter then this would be more than enough.

The Masala was Thick, already the pedigree for this Curry was evident. The Meat to Masala ratio was appropriate, no – Soup – here.

This Curry was a slow starter. A decent Spice Level was hindered by moderate Seasoning. Hector likes his Chefs to be – brave. The quality of the Meat was a standout, this was as Tender as Lamb can be. I do congratulate Chef for presenting Lamb this soft without it turning to pulp.

Slowly, and as slowly as I was eating to savour this delight, the recognisable – Desi Flavour – which distinguishes a Curry from the Mainstream, emerged. Mein Host was across to tell me that Lamb on-the-bone will taste different from the norm. I assured him that I have had this oft in the Curry Cafes on Glasgow’s Southside.

Trying to isolate a particular Spice was proving to be impossible, a fine Garam Masala then? The root Flavour was familiar, but not in one’s face, no – Wow! – ah, the Seasoning could have given so much more. Cardamom was my educated guess, with no whole Spices one cannot be sure.

Curry – is how this was described on the menu. Curry – is something I rarely order. This transformed to a Desi Karahi (no Capsicum) and the Hector could be in raptures.

I ate on, quality Curry, excellent Meat, the Vegetables were a suitable distraction, who wants just Meat & Masala? I was aware of an Oily residue on the base of the plate, but one cannot make a Curry of this quality without sufficient Oil/Ghee.

Every grain of Rice was eaten, the bones suitably gnawed then replaced back in the pot. I would definitely have this again.

The Bill

£14.90    In the city centre, a main course alone can cost this.

The Aftermath

Time for introductions, I went up to the bar to pay and gave the Calling Card.

How long have you been open, that Curry was not made by chance.

Six months.

Mein Host took my card over to the young lady who had recently arrived. This was Priya, daughter of Kinder who had served me. Priya recognised the Curry-Heute Calling Card! The father and daughter team had sold Times of Punjab (Renfrew) where Marg and Hector dined in 2021. Priya remembered Marg from our visit to Times of Punjab. Then I had an impressive Pan Fried Machi Desi Punjabi Masala. I see no Fish Curry in the Glassy Central menu. My thoughts on Prawn Curry are occasionally blogged, if the diner insists…

Kinder went out of his way to tell me that everything served here is fresh, even the Pakora which typically is double fried, and even bought in at some venues.

Before Times of Punjab, and this is going back a while, they had Diva (Dalmuir) which I note, on one visit, did not have – The Clydebank Curry Taste.

I had to ask about lunchtime opening being suspended. It’s all to do with Chef’s hours. Hopefully, once Glassy Central is better established, this shall return. Note Hector prefers to eat at 15.00.

Priya and Kinder clearly know the business, however, basement premises must be difficult. Hopefully Curry-Heute can do its bit to inform the masses. I shall certainly return, with Marg, of an evening.

And as for the couple who sat near me? They were regulars at Times of Punjab.

Renfrew, not the easiest town to get to/from. When will the bridge to Clydebank be completed?

2023 Menu

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Glasgow – Ambala Pakistani Cuisine – In Search of Fish Curry

Last night, an advert for Fish Curry at Ambala Pakistani Cuisine (11 Forth St., Glasgow, Scotland, G41 2SP) popped up on a certain social medium. I verified that it would be available this afternoon. Today was sorted.

I arrived at Ambala at 14.10 and was shown to a window table. A few tables were occupied, families. On showing the downloaded graphic, the young waiter shook his head, he knew nothing of this, not on the menu.

*

We do Fish smaller than that – he informed me.

With Fish planted in the mind, the Hector was not for backing down. Fish Karahi (£12.99) would have to be, accompanied by a Coriander Naan (£3.50). This Naan is not on the menu and is charged at the same rate as the Garlic Naan.

For the record, prices have not increased since my last visit in November. Only one visit to Ambala in 2022? Poor show, Hector.

The bottle of chilled Tap Water was savoured, no taste of bleach here. It is possible that this may have been a seasonal feature in Glasgow’s water supply.

After an appropriate wait, the food arrived. The Naan was quartered, well fired, puffy at the edges, thinner towards the middle. This was a decent Naan, more on this below.

Fish Karahi

The plate was different, no karahi. The traditional Toppings were present, Coriander and Ginger Strips. What was Fish, what was Masala, I’ve been here before. Fish Karahi has been hit and miss at Ambala over the years. In September 2021, I ended up not paying having sent the Curry back to have the excessive Oil removed.

Today, there was peripheral Oil, seemingly not to excess. The Fish had been, mostly flaked, only three discrete pieces would be observed, the rest a mash of Fish and Masala. In style, this was close to that enjoyed at Kashmir (Bradford), a positive.

Slices of both Red and Green Bullet Chillies had been cooked in, it was no surprise therefore when the – kick – registered. More importantly, I was delighted to taste thus confirm, that the Seasoning had been well pitched. As a consequence, this Fish Karahi tasted! – Fishy!

Initially, I found the Karahi to be moist and wondered if a Vegetable Rice / Biryani might have been the better accompaniment. At the halfway stage of eating the actual Curry, I had eaten more than half of the Naan, time to review my progress.

The remaining Karahi showed less moisture than had been the case at the start. Bread was therefore demonstrated as being appropriate. A Chapatti would have lacked girth, a Paratha too crispy (as typically served here); the Coriander Naan proved to be the ideal accompaniment.

I ate on. The Fish Flavour, coupled with the root Flavours of the Masala, were creating an ideal combination, exactly what the Hector seeks. The Fish was soft and showed no sign of tending towards – rubbery. I would have to identify this Fish, another possibly to add to – Hector’s Guide to Fish in Curry.

Some of the Ginger Strips, now sitting at the base of the plate, had partially cooked. The change in Texture and burst of Flavour added more. The Coriander from both the Naan and the Topping was adding another dimension in Flavour. With three quarters of the Naan eaten, it was time to stop.

Only one Naan? – the waiter had asked at the point of ordering.

No excessive Oil, an acceptable level of moistness that maintained, a variety of Flavours, the Fish playing its role to the full, this was a good day to be at Ambala.

The Bill

£16.49     With plenty of Fish present, good value.

The Aftermath

I asked the chap who took the payment what the Fish was. He sought help, the manager came to the rescue. Bangus (Milkfish) was identified.

On realising that he had not seen me for some time, my lack of visits to Ambala was mentioned. I should be here more often. I congratulated him on the Fish Karahi.

In the course of the day, I contacted Zaheer, Mein Host, directly to enquire about the Fish Curry I had come for.

This one is no good for you because there is bones in it – I was informed.

I can do bones.

How and when I shall experience the advertised Fish Curry remains unresolved. Over to Zaheer.

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Westminster – The India Club at Hotel Strand Continental – Not their best day…

Having sampled Curry in Tooting over two days earlier in the week, it was back to – the city. Dr. Stan announced that he would join Hector, Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley for lunch at The India Club (Hotel Strand Continental, 143 Strand, London WC2R 1JA). Dr. Stan brought Mags down from Hackney, this was her first visit to the former staff canteen for the Indian Embassy.

We assembled punctually for our 12.30 rendezvous. Having led the way up the stairs, I advised the waiter that we were five. The first table on the right was allocated. There may have been space on the far side of the room, but not for long. It was busy at The India Club this Wednesday lunchtime. I counted twenty on arrival, many more came, a fair cross section of society. One has to know of this place, stumbling across The India Club is an unlikely event, especially with another Curry House a few doors down.

The menus were provided, no price increase since the last visit in October. Then, Clive and Hector established – three main courses to share between two – as the means of not leaving wanting more. London portions.

Clive and Hector were therefore sharing three portions of Bhuna Lamb – Chef Special (£13.00), Mags added another portion. Dr. Stan chose Saag Lamb (£13.00) then suggested that he and Mags share a Vegetable Curry (£7.50). Maggie went for Keema Peas (£12.00) Rice for five: three Pilau (£4.00), two Plain (£3.50). There is not much of a difference between the two. Maggie added Mango Chutney (£0.60) just in case her Curry was too Spicy.

The waiter managed to accommodate the request for two separate Bills. On asking that there be no Capsicum, he informed me that this would already be cooked in. The menu clearly states: cooked in spiced tomato and onion masala, garnished with capsicum. On all previous visits I have avoided the garnish. Cooked in Capsicum, a departure. I would take the risk.

A bottle of Tap Water was ordered, hardly enough for five. Securing a second proved difficult. Warm plates were brought in a matter of minutes, sadly these would be well cold by the time the food was served. We settled down for the wait. Dosa – appeared to be the choice of many. Although alcohol is served here, two ladies did arrive with their own bottle of wine.

13.00 came and went. The waiters taking the Orders appeared not to be able to bring out the food, there was a chap for this. Those who arrived later had theirs first. At 13.15, three portions of Bhuna Lamb were brought, we had ordered four.

These sat whilst we waited for Rice and the rest. There was always the promise of the remaining food arriving soon. Rice was being shared to get things underway. It took some ten minutes to assemble all, Chutney aside, which had to be summoned later. If the food had been hot, it was no longer. Hector is used to piping hot food.

Bhuna Lamb – Chef Special

The portions are visibly small, yet I did count the Meat into double figures as I arranged the Meat and Masala over the Rice. That there was another half portion coming my way was most certainly comforting, the Hector would be fed.

Cloves registered immediately, there was a rich, earthy Flavour emanating from the Masala. This was a function of the Seasoning which was well pitched, the Spice Level was no more than moderate. The Meat was beautifully Tender, Flavoursome, but lukewarm. Indian Curry, as cooked for Indians, quite distinctive, how Curry should taste, but it should not have been presented thus.

Some of the Masala was – cold. Sending the food back would only have created further delays.

Time to address the elephant in the room. Small pieces of Green Pepper had been cooked in. The size meant – not Ballast – but their presence would cause the inevitable. Indeed, for hours later they resurfaced. Why Capsicum?

The Bhuna at The India Club usually has a redness, with visible Tomatoes in the Masala, not so today. Today’s was a darker brown, fewer Tomatoes, and we all know why.

Did I enjoy my Curry? Well of course, but it could have been so much better. My fellow diners proved to be more forgiving. Clive:

Very tasty, very tender meat, just the right level of sauce to stop it becoming soupy.

Mags, who for once was not having Aloo Gosht:

Lamb really tender, lovely heat to the sauce, would recommend The India Club.

Saag Lamb

A fist appearance in these pages, this is how the Hector likes his Palak Gosht. The Spinach had been stirred into the Masala, presumably the same one used for the Bhuna.

Vegetable Curry

They must be joking!

Potato, Cauliflower, Green Beans, were conspicuous by their absence. Instead, there was a mix of Vegetables which looked as if they had been boiled to death: Courgette, Leek, Carrots, Peas and Onions sat in the most unappealing Shorva. Yadgar (Glasgow) this was not. This Vegetable Curry I had never seen before, and hope to never again.

Dr.Stan’s verdict:

I enjoyed that, very good. I do like Saag, tender meat.

The Veg Curry was a bit spicier.

Mags:

Veg Curry a bit thin.

A bit?

Maggie had been left with little choice but to assist Clive with some of his Bhuna, such was the length of time the Keema took to arrive.

Keema Peas

One cannot help but be amused. If ever Peas had been added on rather than cooked in, then this was it. The Keema did look superb, however, authentically – Dry, no visible Oil, no needless Masala.

Maggie did report this to be more Spicy than the Bhuna then remembered her Chutney, which hadn’t arrived.

Marvellous, the Keema was tasty, was expecting it to be drier, hence the mango sauce. Right size of portion for me (she’s learning), on the warm side.

I assumed the latter referred to Spice, not temperature.

It took a while to obtain the necessaries, yes the waiters were busy, but the division of labour was questionable.

The Bill

£104.10   There is a reason why we paid in this manner.

The Aftermath

There was no opportunity for engagement. We made our way downstairs, more customers were still arriving.

Curry-Heute is all about the Fayre, décor is incidental, and service rarely rates a mention. Service not included – there was a tip, this was hardly deserved.

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