Glasgow – Chimes of India – Back for the Desi Lamb

Lamb two days in a row, it happens. If only Glasgow had a Curry House where the Fish Curry/Karahi was served as a full portion and truly hit the spot. I had originally considered that my next visit to Chimes of India (914-916 Sauchiehall Street, Finnieston, Glasgow G3 7 TF) would feature Aloo Gobi aka Cauliflower Potato Greens (£8.50) and Daal Makhani (£8.50). However, it’s two months since I last had their signature – Desi Lamb (£12.95) on-the-bone, accompanied by Rice – Mushrooms (£3.95).

Arriving at 13.30, there was no sign of Vini, Mein Host, nor would any Chef make an appearance. With a solo diner occupying the table adjacent to my usual corner, I chose the small table nearest the doorway. The next couple to arrive, were sat in his proximity, cosy. Chips, Spike aside, who orders Curry & Chips? With Takeaway customers arriving too, this was the busiest I have seen Chimes of India at lunchtime. The waitress switched on the heater at my feet, cosy indeed.

The Order placed, with a jug of tap water requested too, I settled down for the wait, a full thirty minutes, not a rushed job then, proper cooking.

A couple, of Iberian heritage, entered with a wean in pram and babe in arms. Here we go, again, and tomorrow is Groundhog Day. After a lengthy discussion re complex dietary requirements, the Hector was relieved to establish that they were ordering Takeaway. Better still, they left the premises for the promised twenty minutes. Monday’s aural assault was not to be repeated.

The Mushroom Rice was served in a cold karahi. I quickly tipped the thankfully hot contents onto my plate. A cold plate. I would love to know where Chimes source their Mushrooms, they never fail to impress. I could happily have eaten this without Curry on top.

My water hadn’t arrived. A quick reminder paid dividends. I was permitted – a glassful.

Desi Lamb

The Masala was surely darker than anything served here previously? Tomato Seeds were visible in the rich, thick Masala, Coriander strewn through also. If one is having – Curry – as opposed to – Karahi – then this is how I want my Masala. Whole Spices should feature in a Desi Curry, two Green Cardamom were unearthed in the Masala.

The Meat count was one less than double figures, the majority, large pieces, served on-the-bone. No – Sucky Bones – was my first reaction, an observation that was soon rectified. The bones might not have been from the – leg – with marrow oozing, but solid marrowbone aplenty was revealed as I ate.

The Spice Level was well pitched, enough to know that this was Curry, unlike last night’s meal at home. The Seasoning was certainly in the – brave – category. Any more Seasoning would have been unpleasant, this was maxed out.

The Tenderest of Lamb had been cooked to perfection. A deep, almost burnt Tomato Flavour came through, a bottom of the pot intensity.

The appetite was sated, the cold dinner plate took its toll, eating every morsel would take me beyond the threshold of pleasure. Time to draw a line on the plate, I would leave more than I ought.

The Bill

£16.85

The Aftermath

I left.

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Marg Cooks : Fragrant Lamb Korma

It may have been a somewhat tongue in cheek present, but Marg received a cookery for her recent birthday, and not from me. Marg can cook, however, the norm in Hector’s House is that she doesn’t. Despite the joy of going out for Curry, typically twice a week, the Hector can become tired of his own cooking. It was suggested that Marg have a go, periodically.

With hundreds of recipes to choose from in her Mary Berry tome, Marg chose a Curry, a Korma no less (right). The recipe the Hector acquired on his Curry Course all those decades ago has been published here since the inception of Curry-Heute. It has appeared in these ages as and when – something mild – has been required. But as Lord Clive of Crawley decreed many moons ago, a Korma can be Spicy. Especially if it’s a – Desi Korma, which remains Hector’s favourite Curry.

Marg’s adventure in the kitchen began mid afternoon. However, Hector was involved in the initial preparation, a visit to our nearest Halal Butcher/Grocer in Scotstoun.

There are apparatus in the cupboard which Marg has never used.

There was also the challenge of identifying the required Spices from Hector’s personally labelled jars.

Ground Cardamom?

You grind your own. Black or green?

Hector, the Curry Consultant.

Whilst I deliberately did not study the recipe, I did establish that no Coconut was involved. Had Ms Berry written a Desi Korma recipe?

Ms Berry had casually suggested that her Korma be served with Lentils.

We have plenty of Lentils, are you making a Daal?

On realising that this required even more preparation and cooking, Basmati would be the accompaniment. Hector was summoned to reach the high shelf where the 10kg bag of Rice is stored.

Fragrant Lamb Korma (Mary Berry)

Mint and Paprika were the Toppings. I had convinced Marg that in no way would – Paprika – become – Capsicum. I am not a fan of fresh Mint either. The Masala was Creamy, and decidedly Shorva-esque. Boneless Lamb had been purchased and cooked on but a peep of gas for some ninety minutes. With abundant Masala, there was little fear of it burning/sticking, as the Hector had directed from a safe distance.

Tender Meat, the best I’ve had from this Scotstoun source, which may have changed hands in the not too distant past. (The chap there also has his own poultry farm.) Having sealed/ browned the Meat, I did tell Marg that this would reduce its ability to absorb the Spice. Not the Punjabi way. Consequently, it hadn’t.

Not that there was a lot of Spice in this Curry, the Seasoning was way down also. This was more than a Creamy Lamb Stew, fragrant, aromatic, a hint of – Earthy. I’ll admit to going back to the pot for more Masala.

All plates were cleared. Marg:

After slaving all afternoon in my preparation for the meal, I had decided not to taste during the cooking.

As a meal, I enjoyed the strong lamb flavour and creamy sauce. No real strong spices, but a very pleasant flavour with the fresh mint adding to it.

The Aftermath

What’s next Friday?

Oh no, it’s once a month.

Better than not at all.

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Glasgow – Ambala – A Transformation

The tour of the Southside Curry Cafe venues continues. Towards the end of last year, in passing, I spotted the new signage at Ambala (11 Forth St., Glasgow, Scotland, G41 2SP). It was hard not to.

Arriving with Marg at 13.30, I was relieved to see the high sign had survived Storm Éowyn, but was not expecting to find a complete redesign inside and out. The extended doorway, including an electric interior one, leads to a new counter, where Takeaway can be ordered/collected and payments made after dining in.

The dining area is definitely more formal, Ambala is now definitely a restaurant, no longer a cafe. The booth table, oft occupied by the local – Asian dignitaries – has gone. Have they relocated to DumPukht?

Power sockets aplenty, but no USB capability, heaters everywhere, even air con. Marg and Hector would dine in comfort, well in terms of temperature, at least.

We were shown to a window table, where else, and issued with the new menu by the waitress. Already the heart had sank. A chap sat at the adjacent wall, the only other customer, i.e. dismissing the two weans, both in high chairs. Had Marg not been with me, I would probably have walked. There was no sign of a mother, the inevitable screaming competition got underway. And it was not the Hector doing the screaming, yet.

The already well-worn menu had a new layout. Prices have increased since my last visit a year ago, as expected, and mostly justified. But £1.99 for a Chapatti, come on.

Gobi Gosht Lamb (£12.99*) for Hector, the – Phool – has been dropped from this Dish’s moniker. Pilau Rice would accompany (£3.99), and would also feature Peas. Marg went back to her roots: Keema Karahi (£12.99) with the – Pea – option, plus her customary Chapatti.

Having spotted Kashmiri Tea (£3.50) this was also requested. The waiter who took the order gave the bad news. No Kashmiri Tea. Desi Tea (£3.00) was offered instead. Knowing the Tea could take while, it was agreed it would be served as and when. We were advised that there would be a twenty to twenty-five minute preparation time for the food.

A bottle of tap water, and the traditional two Dips were provided.

This gave plenty of time to capture images of the new layout. The facilities have a new entrance, they too may have been upgraded. It was Marg who spotted the bit of humour… Refuge from the weans?

At 14.00, the chap was served with Donner on a Naan, still no mother. A phone-call, and moments later two mothers arrived. I don’t know what pub they might have been hiding in, as if. More food arrived, they ate, called for containers and were gone at 14.23.

I recorded the precise moment when Marg and I were allowed to dine in peace.

Having eaten so little of what they had ordered, why not just have Takeaway to start with? Little did I know of what was to come our way.

When the food arrived, we were both staring at defeat. No way could we manage all this.

Decent portions and outstanding value, may be another way of reporting this.

The Rice was a Euro-portion. I put more on my plate than I knew I would manage, loads left. This Pilau is to share, just as well we hadn’t ordered two.

I’m sure there was more Rice at the end than at the start.

The Chapatti, served whole, and despite being Wholemeal, did not look as though this flour was overdone. The Chapatti suited Marg, even the Hector might have enjoyed it.

Gobi Gosht – Lamb

If anyone had ordered this anticipating a – Curry – they would have been surely taken aback by the wonder that was presented. This was – Karahi – as authentic as it comes. The minimal, Tomato-based Masala was devoid of any sign of – red, so much so that Namkeen came to mind. This was backed up by the specks of Black Pepper which smothered both the Lamb and the Cauliflower. Yet this was not the simplistic – Namkeen – but a much more complex creation. The Meat was almost a grey-brown, a Karahi, and with Karahi I have Bread. Why had I ordered the Rice?

With the Ginger Strips, separating Oil, and a Bullet Chilli halved lengthwise, this had me won even before the eating commenced. I decanted around half of the bowl, there was no point even pretending that I could manage all this food. A late night dietary supplement was already being considered.

The Spice and Seasoning were a la Desi Karahi, a sufficient level of potency, satisfaction guaranteed. The Flavour of Peas had permeated the Pilau, the Masala was giving off its own, and all this before I actually started on the Meat or Cauliflower.

My love of Aloo Gobi is well recorded in these pages. This Cauliflower was stunning. Enough firmness, not al dente, – mush – should not even appear in this sentence. The Cauliflower had absorbed the Flavours from probably both Meat and Masala, glorious. I can write with authority, the Ginger had most certainly been absorbed too. Had there been no Meat present today, satisfaction would still have been attained. A – Gobi Wow! – moment.

The Lamb was suitably tender, the right amount of chewing. Initially, the depth of Flavour was revealed, way more than just – Peppery.

Latterly, as I flagged, more chewing of the Meat was required, and there was still so much of it.

Let’s not overlook the contribution to the overall experience by the Peas and even the Bullet Chilli. Variations in Texture, what the Hector particularly enjoys.

I felt as though I had eaten a mountain of Rice, yet as the photo shows, it appears to be hardly touched. My plate remnants were returned to the serving bowl. Surely, that’s more than I started with?

*

*

Keema Mutter

Again, Ginger Strips and the separating Oil may be what registers first. Consider the Mince itself, Minimal Masala in the extreme. This is how a Keema is meant to be served. Today, there was no Hector Soupçon, Marg, as is now her custom, had more than a few words to add:

It took over 30 minutes to prepare and I was hungry when it arrived. A large plate of tasty looking Keema with a fresh Chapatti. The Keema was spicy and I enjoyed the strips of ginger on top.

This large portion was too much for me to eat in one go. I was able to enjoy the mince with all of the Chapatti and left about half for a future date.

After the food, I received my Masala Tea which helped my digestion and completed the meal.

The waiter came to check on our progress. Seeing how much was being left, he was evidently worried that the Spice Level was too much. Yoghurt was offered, declined. Marg was offered another Chapatti – We have Rice – I pointed out. Not that Marg was going near it.

It was another lady who dealt with the leftovers. Three plastic tubs, still plenty of eating.  

The Bill

£36.96   The Gobi Gosht was charged at £14.99*, naughty. Previous versions of the menu had always made it clear that Lamb would be charged at an extra £2.00. I do not see this on the current version.

The Aftermath

The waiter, whilst taking payment at the new counter, said he had remembered me. He thought I worked for a newspaper. I showed him the – Ambala – page on Curry-Heute. The staff photo featured therein is from 2016, long before his time. However, he did confirm that the same Chef was in the kitchen.

Eight hours later…

Half of the leftover Rice was microwaved, the Gobi Gosht reheated in the air-fryer. (Never reheat Curry in a microwave.) Every grain of Rice would be eaten, at last, a sensible portion.

The Spice maintained both in terms of heat and Flavour, yet the Masala had all but disappeared. Bread with Karahi. Still, this was as – Dry – a Curry as I could hope for. The plate was cleared, finally, I had done this Gobi Gosht justice.

A year since my last visit, I wonder why? Much of the menu is not Curry, perhaps there are Desi Dishes I can do without: e.g. Paya (£11.99) for one, and definitely Mugguz Karahi (£14.99). For Hector, it’s a – no brainer.

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Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – … and Hector made twelve

The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA) was not Hector’s intended venue this afternoon, matters Geography, determined this. Storm Éowyn may have past, however, there were possibly no trains running in Central Scotland today. My limited stop bus into the city was needlessly delayed on the Clydeside Expressway, just what was the hold-up? Finding myself on Argyle Street, crossing the river on the Squiggly Bridge to The Village became the plan.

Entering at a somewhat late 14.25, I had to stand for a few moments to be allocated a table. The splitting of the dining area appears to be complete. The reserved area was closed off.

Achari Gosht (13.95), from the serious part of the menu, was today’s choice, accompanied by the usual Mushroom Rice (£3.95). A jug of tap water was duly provided.

The waitress offered – on-the-bone. I upped this to – on-the-bone, Desi style.

All quite efficient. She had twelve diners to look after. A waiter was bringing out the mains, she dealt with drinks, Desserts, Orders and Bills. Division of labour.

All but two of the initial assembly would depart during my stay. They were soon replaced, all of us sitting at, or near, the window tables. How many people pass in the bus, look in but never come? This is one of Glasgow’s foremost Curry Houses.

It was the waitress who brought my food, so who knows what happened to the chap?

Last time, the Mushroom Rice degraded the overall enjoyment by being served at a tepid temperature. Today’s was too hot to handle. Had someone read these pages? I didn’t see any kitchen staff I recognised today. A modest portion, sufficient for one. As it happened, I had to accept defeat eventually and leave a few grains. So much for eating at my formerly preferred time of 15.00.

Achari Gosht

No Herb Topping today. Instead, a smothering of Spice which I took to be Garam Masala. Dry Methi might have had me in raptures.

Spooning the Meat and most of the Masala over the Rice, the Meat count easily reached double figures. Two bones only, one a Sucky Bone.

There was no sign of the expected array of pickled bits, i.e. whole pieces of e.g. Rind. However, the first mouthful confirmed this was – Achari.

By Village standards, the Seasoning was quite a bit down. The Spice Level was never going to get beyond – Moderate. So much for Desi-style, the Lamb Qorma had here recently, well that was a challenge.

The Pickle Flavour soon subsided. On seeing traces of Herb cooked in I began to question what sat before me. Of course, the Achari is the Village Curry tweaked, but today by not enough. The more I ate, the more I thought – Village Curry, not Achari.

Pleasure? Of course, this is a special place, but not the big blast of Flavour I had hoped for. A different Chef today?

The Bill

£18.90

The Aftermath

Adam, the manager, had approached me as I ended my Curry. Time for more catching up.

The Village was open yesterday, despite few places in the city being so, reportedly. The BBC didn’t come here. Do all their staff use the Squinty Bridge? Oh, that’s why it was built, allegedly.

I hadn’t seen Adam for some time, the last Ramadan Buffet no doubt. Ten years he has been here. As I observed with Kasif last time, the boys are becoming – men.

Walking back along Nelson Street, avoiding big puddles, behold the new frontage and signage of what has been – Hector’s home – for so long: Karahi Palace, then Handi By Darbar.

Bayt Alsham, a Syrian-owned Mediterranean/Chinese restaurant. Grill with Noodles? Aye right. Maybe one day.

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Hector Cooks – Palak Gosht

I keep seeing recipes online for either Prawns or Chicken with Spinach, not Curry. As yet, none have been tried, but having seemingly bought a lot of Spinach in recent weeks, which has to be used, Palak Gosht was calling instead. There was also a kilo of Goat in the freezer which has been there for some months.

The recipe for Palak Gosht has long been published in these pages, not a Curry I make often. Then the notion materialises. There were two significant departures from the published recipe: pressure cooked Meat and fresh Spinach.

I managed to confirm that a standard tin is the equivalent of 400g of fresh Spinach. I used 300g as I was going to add a further Herb. There were three significant departures…

The Goat, on-the-bone, of course, was placed in the pressure cooker and smothered with Garam Masala. Enough water to cover the Meat was added. The Meat was not – browned – I have been told the Punjabi way is not to.

The Spinach was cooked per recipe with Onion and some Oil. Water had to be added to compensate for the liquid that would have been in a tin. Departure #4…

Twenty five minutes cooking time for both pots, the Spinach was suitably pulped, twenty might have been enough for the Goat. The Meat was thoroughly cooked, quite a few pieces had separated from the bones. Still, the Sucky Bones would be added to the Masala regardless. The – broth – remaining in the pressure cooker was chucked. It looks as if it could used as the basis for something else, it tastes horrible.

Frozen Onions, lazy, no tears, but they have been to dry fried to remove the excess moisture before adding the Oil to kick off the Masala. Frozen Onions do not pulp in the same way as fresh, I considered blending, but decided otherwise.

The Masala was created following the recipe, closely. A lot of Oil.

Methi was the extra Herb.

If Yadgar can use five Herbs in their Saag/Palak, the Hector can use three.

The Coriander was fit enough for cooking.

The Spinach Mash added, I cooked the Meat and Masala for a further twenty minutes, infusion.

In the spirit of a recent Manchester Curry review, I spooned off quite a bit of excess Oil. This does alter the Masala, so I left a sufficiency. No Oil, no Masala.

The outcome was visibly pleasing, a quick check on the Seasoning, a la recipe, all was well.

The accompanying Rice was the Chana Pilau presented at Yadgar earlier this week.

Whilst the Rice was suitably Spiced, I cannot say I am a big fan of – black – Chickpeas either. A – not so Interesting Vegetable?

By reducing the quantity of Spinach slightly, I had ensured that this was Masala with Herbs, not a Herb Mash. The outcome was as intended.

Tasty, indeed, this was. The recipe had not asked for loads of Salt, yet the Seasoning was certainly there. The Spice Level was no more than – moderate. Had Marg been here, she would not have made her usual comment re Hector’s cooking.

A Dry Curry with a Herb-rich Masala. I shall suggest that the added Methi tempered the Spinach, a unique outcome for this Saag/Palak.

The Goat was as Tender as I have ever encountered. Pressure cooking is so much simpler. There was a sense of the Meat giving back the Spice too, Hector’s Desi Palak Gosht.

A success.

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Glasgow – Yadgar – Inauguration Day

My last visit to Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP), and too many months ago, appears to have coincided with someone in the USA receiving a bloody ear. Today, as I ate my feast at Yadgar, it was about an hour until he was sworn is as the 47th President. As the Turkish proverb goes: When a clown moves into a palace, he doesn’t become king. The palace becomes a circus.

Hector back at Yadgar, and treated like Royalty, as ever. This, ironically, is why I have to limit my visits to what remains the outstanding venue for Curry in this city. The Hector is not paid to write this, an empirical viewpoint. However, favours do have a habit of happening.

Having been away quite a bit last year, I had failed to notice the new facade and black shutters. The shutters were still down as I arrived before the scheduled 14.00 opening time. I wish it was earlier, as the chap, waiting outside before me, may also have felt. He was to be first in line for a Kebap. In the hour I was at Yadgar today, a lot of Kebap went out the door.

Shafiq raised the shutters at 13.55, and quickly removed the covers from the food on display. He then brought a raw Donner from the kitchen and installed it on the rotisserie.

A Chef, new to me, arrived moments later. They were ready for another day.

There was a huge tray of Fish Pakora (£6.00 / £8.00) on display, so nothing fresh from the kitchen for Hector today. I spotted two dishes containing Potato in the corner of the shelf.

Chicken Mince and Potato-Cauliflower – advised Shafiq.

Ill have the Aloo Gobi (£5.00) – raised a smile across the counter.

Fish Pakora, no Rice/Bread – completed the Order. Yes, this is what I had last time, but that was six months ago, self denial in the extreme.

At 14.00 there was a queue. Was this people getting in early for tonight’s Takeaway dinner, or having a late lunch, a la Hector? I cannot answer this, but shall plant the seed that restoring the earlier opening time may be worth a try.

Who has Kebap for lunch anyway? Apart from the Greeks, Turks, Lebanese …

Settled into my usual spot, I had come prepared for the chilly room. It was approaching 15.00 when the next two sit-in customers arrived.

The young chap who serves tables and behind the counter when Naveed is missing, as he was today, brought me a most impressive Salad and a huge bowl of Raita. It was time to order a drink, the usual Rubicon Mango (£1.00). Still no Sparking Water at Yadgar.

Black and Green Olives, pickled Chillies, my favourites. I will admit to leaving the green stuff.

The reheating did not take long, quite a feast, and healthy too.

*

*

Fish Pakora

Just the nine pieces, each would be halved, such was their size. A whole Fish then.

The Spiced Batter blanketed the white Scottish Haddock. It’s all about balance here: the Spice mustn’t drown the natural Flavour of the Fish. Flipping between Pakora and Salad, the variety of Textures makes this so much fun to eat. Fish without Chips, or Bread even, Hector celebrating Salad, it was the quality of what sat before me which makes the meal. And there’s more.

Aloo Gobi

Fortunately this had been truly reheated, so the time taken to admire the Fish Pakora was not to the detriment of the Vegetable Curry. There was possibly twice as much Cauliflower as Potato in this portion, as it happened, this turned out to be a bonus. I have written oft of Potato’s ability to absorb Flavours, today no exception, however… the Cauliflower had it. It just kept giving. One piece surprised, al dente, the rest was spot on. Just enough firmness. Pulp is not what the Hector seeks.

I had stirred the Cauliflower, Potato and Minimal Masala before I started to eat, aesthetics. On licking the spoon, the full blast of – The Yadgar Taste – hit the palate. Astonishing, a – Wow! – moment and I hadn’t even started eating the Aloo Gobi.

On New Year’s Day, Chapatti John arranged to collect a kilo of Goshat Karahi (£30.00) to take back across the river to Dr. Stan’s. I reminded him to ensure that he bought a portion of whatever Vegetable Curry was on display. As much as they enjoyed the ever-impressive Karahi, it was the Vegetable Curry  they both particularly mentioned, when I caught up with them on the third.

To come to Yadgar and not have a Vegetable Curry is a big mistake. The intensity of the distinctive Flavours, mellow Spice, perfect Seasoning, is something to behold. And everyone else was ordering Kebap.

I was down to my final mouthfuls, – leave the green – wipe the bowl of the Aloo Gobi with pieces of Fish, when Shafiq appeared before me. Not for the first time at Yadgarsomething to try. I made it clear to Shafiq that I was stuffed. How did I manage a Chapli along with this combination previously? It was agreed that it would savoured at home.

Behold a freshly made plate of Chana Pilau. In fact I had to verify with the waiter as I put on my coat that it was indeed Chickpea. I had sampled one, a black Chickpea? These I had never seen before.

For nefarious reasons, I have been buying lots of fresh Spinach of late. Maybe a Palak Gosht with Chana Pilau is calling?

The Bill

£13.00

The Aftermath

I even heard a customer speaking Polish as I departed. Kebab House – may have been dropped from the signage, is there something else I don’t know?

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Manchester – Kabana – Lamb Chops, California-style

Lamb Chops Tikka (£6.50) at Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England), Marg had them on Monday, Clive on Tuesday, today, finally, it’s Hector’s turn. Are they that good? At this price for four large Lamb Chops, you’d better believe it.

After coffee, Marg and Hector arrived at Kabana at 13.330, our preferred time. Yvonne and Mags who turned up at 13.00 insist it was quieter then. Are other peeps following the Hector Model? They were sat with Josh near the door. To the rear, at the side table, Clive, Maggie and Steve were well underway, this saves me so much writing. Marg, who was dining later, restricted her order to Indian Tea (£3.00), her third of the week.

Having placed the Order, I took my seat, a ten minute wait was anticipated. Dr. Stan then turned up, complete with his dose of Rice & Three (£8.50). From the – Specials Board – today he had selected Karahi Lamb, Keema Peas, Spinach and Potatoes (Saag Aloo).

In all of my sixty-plus visits to Kabana, I don’t think I’ve ever had Rice & Three, next month?

Lamb Chops Tikka

One sits, thinking that what is coming shall be the same as seen twice already this week, not when Rizwan, Mein Host, is involved. He brought the Chops to the table.

Nobody was prepared to see one of the Chops with a flame still burning. A flame, not a flicker, it was not going out anytime soon. This provided the opperchancity to mark the moment, multiple photos. Finally, when I blew out the flame, Maggie and Marg, sitting opposite, spontaneously burst into:

Happy Birthday to You!

Akbar’s (Glasgow) has long been reported as serving the best Lamb Chops ever experienced. Today, the baton is officially passed on. Cremated – how many times have Marg and I asked for – cremated Lamb Chops? At Kabana, there’s no need evidently.

The burnt, sooty, extremities provide their own Flavour, the gritty charcoal. Smokin’ man!

The Chops themselves had been marinated in Spices, Yoghurt too I would expect. The cooking had left the Meaty parts juicy, the best of both worlds.

Between mouthfuls of Meat, the Raita covered Salad, then the Spiced Onions were tackled. The hands, fingers, were a mess. Rizwan, who was also savouring the spectacle, reminded me I could use the facilities to clean up afterwards.

The Spice kept building, the tip of the tongue was tingling. Meatiness, then gnawing the bones, hoping for more. Yvonne wouldn’t do this. Did I mention there were four? Four Lamb Chops, how often has the Hector been let loose on four, all to himself, no sharing….

How to have this again? As a Starter, then order a Curry? Have a Curry then order a portion if there is anything remotely like an appetite remaining? These dilemmas lie in the future. Suffice to say, three of us had Lamb Chops at Kabana this week, three more than satisfied customers.

The Bill

£9.50

The Aftermath

In passing Al-Faisal Tandoori this week, the shutters have been down. Gone, or a holiday, I had to ask Rizwan.

Apparently, Al-Faisal closed two months ago, suddenly. No more Tariq or Salim.

Later this afternoon, the ritual of the trapped, then released, Cumin Seed was played out once more. Much later, a Curryspondent saw a posting on a certain social medium and asked if I was still in California. OK, the banner at the head of this review may be in bad taste, however, this line is too good to not share.

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Manchester – Golden Tandoori – Seating Restored

Late nights in the Northern Quarter used to be – later. Currently, one only has until 23.00 to acquire – the munchies. Having only had Lamb Chops at lunchtime, the Hector was definitely in need of more sustenance.

For the first time in seven years, Golden Tandoori (40-42 Great Ancoats St, Manchester M4 5AE, UK) became the venue of choice. In 2017, Golden Tandoori was the first Ancoats venue to stay open – late. The subsequent opening of delhi2go became a major distraction. There, Chef Rashid quickly became a legend.

A consequence of – the plague – the tables and chairs at Golden Tandoori were removed. It was only last year that a couple of tables were reinstated.

This must have been coincidentally around the time that Chef Rashid disappeared from delhi2go. The latter now places less focus on Curry, whereas, at Golden Tandoori, Curry very much dominates the menu.

Steve, who had Curry for lunch at Kabana would join Hector at 23.30 this evening. Howard came for a Takeaway, I have no idea what he bought. Curry, twice in one day, are we rediscovering our youth? As we claimed one of the now three tables, an exuberant chap was keen to engage us. He welcomed us, hugs too, before departing…wtf was that?

I studied the boards as I approached the counter. Takeaway customers were dealt with, my turn. I asked for the best Curry they can make. Meat Karahi (£9.50) was the suggestion.

As ever, I ensured that no Capsicum would appear. In the past, this was never an issue here, no problem tonight. Naan Bread (£2.20) would accompany.

The Bill

£11.70 Paid in advance.

Steve’s turn: Meat Madras (£9.50), Pilau Rice (£2.80) and a Garlic Naan (£2.90). Rice and Bread, respect. I don’t know how he does it.

There was a steady stream of Takeaway customers. The unholy trinity of Curry/Kebap/Pizza was flying out the door.

Note, in recent times, including last night, it was Burgers which have led me to delhi2go. Their Burgers are wonderful, the Bier served at t’Travelodge, less so.

The food was brought to the table. A decent portion of Pilau, two Naan. Both were round, served whole and neither had perforations. The Bread had been allowed to rise creating a decent girth. Light, fluffy, blisters, great Naan, and I would correspondingly eat a larger proportion than my norm.

On seeing the first Curry brought to the table I was glad it turned out to be Steve’s.

Meat Madras

How red is this? This cannot be natural. Coriander Leaves topped the blended Masala which although looking – Soupy – appeared to have a decent level of viscosity.

Once decanted, the volume of Curry did not seem overtaxing. Still, with the Bread and Rice, lots to eat.

For Hector, there was a more abhorrent than – red – situation to deal with, wooden cutlery. Yeuch. The plastic bowls and plate suddenly felt – posh.

Meat Karahi

In addition to the Coriander Topping, some had been cooked into the Masala. This was a Masala. With skins to the fore, clearly Tomato-based, how to make a proper Desi Karahi Masala.

Tender, and abundant, as the Meat was, it was not giving back Flavour other than its own meatiness. There could have been more Seasoning, it may have made the difference.

There was no lack of Spice here, the notes started with Spicy and eventually reached – through the roof. It is a mere twenty four hours since I wrote – Why do people believe that Chefs go out of their way to cause discomfort for their customers? A Curry is all about Flavour with hopefullya wee kick. Tonight’s Curry was far from having – a wee kick. This was what some refer to as – Vindaloo – strength.

The palate adjusted to the assault, more Flavour coming through, the Tomato to the fore.  A few prices of – green – showed up, set aside, just in case. I even upped my appreciation of the Seasoning. Enjoyment – may be a stranger given the above, however, one adjusts to what is presented. Not wonderful, but bloody good – was the eventual verdict.

Meanwhile, Steve was still proving that he really can manage Bread and Rice with his Curry. He sampled my Karahi:

My meat is more tender. Definitely, yours is better.

The Aftermath

Back at t’Travelodge, Howard still had his Takeaway, untouched.  Maybe he likes cold food?  We’ll never get to know what he ordered, unless…

2025 Menu

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Manchester – Lahori Butt Karahi – Good Food, Good Value, Wacky Service

Day #3 in Manchester, time for a feast. Spotted last year, but temporarily closed due to a hiatus, Lahori Butt Karahi (142b Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester M8 8PZ England) was today’s chosen venue. With – The Ladies – having lunch, Clive had little choice but to accompany me. When Josh arrived in Manchester last night, he announced that he was keen to sample another – Lahori kilo.

Walking up towards Cheetham Hill, we arrived at Lahori Butt Karahi bang on 13.00. Two doors down, our usual source of the – kilo – Lahori Badsha sported new tables and chairs, but was empty both before and after our meal. Lahori Butt Karahi had three tables occupied on our arrival, and more customers came and went during our stay, saying much about the popularity of this Curry Cafe.

A waiter gestured that we should sit at the table next to the counter which was set for three. I took the adjacent table, set for four. From here, I would survey all, in time. An open kitchen, one could in theory watch one’s Order being prepared. Another waiter and waitress, in turn, busied themselves wiping plates and then glasses, respectively. Bright and Shiny, photos were acquired as and when tables were evacuated. There was a continuous blast of hot air from above us, no cold room here.

The counter display had prepared Curry, not ready/fast food a la Kabana CH across the street. The mass of Fish on top of the counter was certainly inviting. That’s for another day, and who knows, the – whole chicken – suitably spiced and nothing like Nando’s, which we watched being served at another table. I don’t believe I have ever seen a – whole chicken – served in such a manner.

Having studied the business end of the menu, the Lamb Butter Karahi (£30.00) was talking to me. No need for Olive Oil (Zatooni) and another couple of quid. With the basic Lamb Karahi priced at £26.00, this must be the cheapest kilo served anywhere in the land.  The Hiran (Venison) Karahi (£40.00) is one for the future.

With three of us, a Vegetable accompaniment could be managed. Mixed Vegetable (£6.00) would suit our purposes. Josh’s Bread preference was a Garlic Naan (£2.00). Clive and Hector opted for the Butter Naan (£1.70), one each.

The Drinks page intrigued, Jugs for £6.00, was this per litre, or even two?

No jugs – the waiter informed us.

Cans of fizz (£1.50) and a bottle of still water (£1.00) were duly ordered, two rounds, eventually. At Lahori Butt Karahi, no tap water is served.

The kilo order was duly noted, then time for the accompaniment.

No Vegetables – advised the waiter.

A Curry House without Vegetables, how could this be so?

It is written – I said pointing firstly to the jug option, then the Mixed Vegetable Curry.

He was nonplussed.

Daal Mash (£6.00) became the accepted substitute. Lentils are not Vegetables then?

A Modest Salad and two Dips were brought to the table. These remained untouched until the main event.

Settled in for the thirty minute wait, watching people come and go, it became apparent that it is the Asian community who frequent Lahori Butt Karahi, unlike the more cosmopolitan Kabana CH.  The music certainly reflected this. A single voice, no accompaniment, Friday Prayer Music – is how I shall describe it. It was relentless. On a loop – Josh suggested.

Those seeking a table upstairs were denied.

The Breads arrived in a single basket, halved. Being Manchester, they had also been perforated, two negatives. Fortunately, the Naans had still managed to rise and create the required level of fluffiness. No blisters.

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Daal Mash

Large Lentils, surprisingly large, and so less of a – Mash. The sheen confirmed the presence of a minimal, but Oily Masala. Once divvied out, a Soupçon remained. As a – Side – this did its job of providing a Diversity of Texture.

Lamb Butter Karahi

This was certainly – the full kilo. With a more than acceptable Meat to Bone ratio, there was plenty of eating here, enough for three – to share. No Sucky Bones. With no Offal or Fatty bits attached, this had the appearance of – Quality Lamb.

Oil was separating from the Tomato-based Masala. Some of the surplus Oil was easily avoided when spooning out the portions. Far from – a glass full of oil – which one reviewer had claimed in another medium. There was no avoiding the Oily Lake on the plate. No Oil, no Flavour.

With the Salad and Dips suitably arranged on the plates, were were all set, something missing.

Cutlery? – I asked the other waiter as he returned from serving the aforementioned – whole chicken – to another table. Had he been called Manuel, he may well have replied – Que?

Forks, spoons – I clarified. He still looked bemused. In time, we were able to eat.

Behold the Tenderest of Meat, observation matched expectation. Dipping the Bread in the well Seasoned Masala, beautifully crafted Flavours were revealed. Being Manchester, Earthy, with Cloves coming though but not to the detriment of the other Spices. No Whole Spices, but the Masala had the true Desi Texture. Josh remarked that the Spice Level was not as high as he might have feared. Why do people believe that Chefs go out of their way to cause discomfort for their customers? A Curry is all about Flavour with hopefully – a wee kick.

Addressing the Daal Mash, this was a quintessential – Dry Curry. Once again, Clove was the most easily discernable Flavour. Whilst an array of Vegetables would have been preferred, the Daal Mash was something different.

A half Naan remained, Clive expressed no interest in finishing his share. Usually, when having a Keema Naan with his Karahi, Clive will leave the bulk of his Bread to the end. Today, no Keema Naan was on offer, the Bread was abandoned.  Clive:

The food was good, no quibbles. The staff didn’t seem to know what they were doing. Clueless. Shocked when asked for cutlery. Josh:

The food certainly made up for the cluelessness. The meat just fell to pieces, velvety. The flavour wasn’t too overpowering, warmth at back of throat. That was a decent Garlic Naan.

Time to pay, I held a card aloft. This was acknowledged by the second waiter, the first being now more behind the counter than customer side. And so we waited. And waited.

I tried again – can we pay please?

And so we waited, and waited. All glasses wiped, it became apparent that the waitress was now in charge of dealing with payment matters. Eventually, she managed to transfer our Order from pad to till, and secure the printout.

The Bill

£49.00 Given two rounds of Drinks, great value.

The Aftermath

Two senior chaps behind the counter had just disappeared. The Calling Card was given to a chap who was decidedly more communicative than any encountered here today. I mentioned my previous attempts to visit Lahori Butt Karahi both here and in Bradford. I was informed that they have nothing to do with the Bradford outlet of the same name.

I was thanked for coming.

As we put on our coats, so a family with two weans sat at the table we were first offered. Timing. 

2025 Menu

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Manchester – Kabana – Seven In Attendance

What time are we meeting? – texted Steve.

Now – I replied.

And so Hector, Marg and Maggie entered Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England) at the arranged 13.30.

Steve and Mags were at the counter, both having ordered Karahi Lamb (£6.50), so yesterday. Steve went boneless, with a Chapatti (£1.00) whilst Mags followed Hector’s model having – on-the-bone –  and Fried Rice (£2.00).

Clive had arrived first, securing the side tables, but was waiting for Maggie to arrive to order his Lamb Chops Tikka (£6.50) and Fried Rice. Lamb Chops Tikka was reviewed yesterday, as enjoyed by Marg, outstanding.

What was Clive to do with the Rice? Maggie, who was trying to avoid calories, considered Chicken Tikka (£5.00) to suit her needs. This was served with a Raita smothered Salad and Spice Onions a la Lamb Chops. It did the job, Maggie was once again impressed. The remainder of the above was covered yesterday, and given how much will be written this week, no need to go there again.

For Marg, who had been out for porridge earlier, a mere Indian Tea (£3.00) was once again her order. A cheap date.

For Hector, the – Masala Fish Creation: Fried Fish (£5.50), Fried Rice and a bowl of Masala from the Karahi Lamb.

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Masala Fish Creation

A huge slab of Pollock (Saithe/Coley) shrouded in baked on Spice, sat atop the standard Kabana accompaniments of Raita/Salad and Spiced Onions. Beneath, more Fried Rice than a Hector would manage today. Yesterday every grain was consumed, but that was much later in the day. Rizwan thought it better to add the – foliage – to the accompanying bowl of Masala. Efficient, and so the Coriander, sliced Green Chillies and Ginger Cubes, would work their magic.

From the adjacent table, Steve remarked:

smells of fish…

Not a bad start. Whilst the Fried Fish, as normally served, would certainly work as a meal, the added Masala turns this into a – Curry. The Masala is also required to keep the Rice – Interesting.

The Batter on the Fish was suitably – Spicy. The Fish itself, gave off its Flavour. Add to this, the Meaty hit from the Karahi Masala, the moist Lettuce leaves, the – kick – from the Spiced Onions, so much going on. The all so important Seasoning was emanating from the Batter and the Masala. An array of Flavours and Textures with the ample Fish providing the protein and bulk.

Given how difficult it is to source a worthy Fish Karahi, this – Creation – ticks so many boxes.

As I ate, so Dr. Stan arrived, now we were seven. Dr. Stan likes his Rice & Three (£8.50).

Rice & Three: Kofta Anda /Saag Aloo / Karahi Lamb (boneless)

The philosophy behind this is therefore along the lines of my own order today. Kofta Anda, I would have had if no Fish been available. Dr. Stan’s creation only commanded a single Meatball and piece of hard-boiled Egg. He did, however, have Spinach shrouded Potato, Meat and of course the joyous Karahi Masala.

This works.

The Bill

£10.00    For Marg and Hector

The Aftermath

With a different plan for tomorrow, I promised Rizwan we would return on Thursday.

I’ll surprise you.

Namkeen Karahi?

No.

Ah well.

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