Brussel – Chilli Grill – More Desi Curry

After yesterday’s sublime Beef Karahi at Chilli Grill (Rue Antoune 172, 1000 Brussel, Belgium), the easy thing would have been to come back and say – same again. What credibility would Curry-Heute have if Hector had the same Curry in the same restaurant every time? (I phoned Karahi Palace (Glasgow) this afternoon, they have still not re-opened.)

I said I would be here at 14.00, but took the risk and arrived at Chilli Grill for 13.30. Mein Host from yesterday was behind the counter, there was also a voice greeting me from the kitchen, this was Mein Echtes Host. It was about time I established names. Alvi – was given for them both, as in brothers. The main man ensured I spelled – Shahzad – properly on the Oppo. He recited my planned Order: Qeema (€8.00) and Aloo Gobi (€6.50), evidently Hector was expected. Despite, in effect, ordering two Main Courses, I would stick with Plain Rice (€3.00).

To amuse myself during the period of preparation, I decided to amuse myself by comparing the wonderful Belgian Fanta (€2.00) with Sanpellegrino Aranciata (€2.00). The latter was more bitter than the Belgian orange drink and probably contained actual fruit.  Fanta has far less colouring. Two entirely different drinks, believe me, Belgian Fanta is still streets ahead of the British version.

During my wait, a chap came in – a brother – by greeting, with his lunch in a plastic container. This was duly put in the microwave; he departed with his hot food, different.

I have often questioned the quantity of Rice served in European Curry Houses. Yesterday I managed every grain, today I would accept defeat from the start due to being earlier in the day and having two Mains.

Who could eat all this Rice? – I have posted oft. Today, a chap came in and ordered the largest Biryani I have ever seen, approaching what I would consider to be six Rice portions. Maybe there is something I do not understand about Rice in Europe. He was still eating as I departed.

Decision: eat one Curry then the next, or both together? I would arrange each on either side of the Plain Rice.

Qeema

Topped with Fresh Coriander and Ginger Strips, was the centrepiece  – the half Herb – half Root – something aromatic –  which Shahzad showed me on Visit #1? In this Keema Aloo Mutter, the Peas were highly visible. The quantity of Potato took me by surprise, I would end up with a mass of Potatoes for my dinner. The Masala was minimal, to the point of invisibility. As it should be, there was very little Oil present.

Aloo Gobi

The Dry Herb Topping puzzled, I should have asked. With Fresh Coriander on the Qeema, why put – dry – on the Aloo Gobi? It didn’t look like Methi being still on the stem, which we do not eat.

Beneath the Dry Herbs was a mass of Potato and something that looked like a classic Oily Desi Masala.

Shahzad took a seat at the adjacent table, conversation was ongoing throughout my time of eating. The Mince did not taste of Lamb and was too dark to be Chicken.

It’s Beef! – confirmed Brother Alvi from behind the counter. I bet he has never heard of Bob Todd (1970s Knorr TV advert, UK).

Fine as the Beef was, it was the Potatoes that were giving off the most intense Flavour, as they should having sat in the Masala. The Peas were firm, disturbingly so, not Birds Eye then? This post is turning weird.

Ginger Strips and sliced Green Chillies had been cooked in adding to the Spice Level which was decent, the Seasoning was below the Hector idyll.

The Cauliflower, served a bit soft for my liking, gave off a remarkable amount of Flavour. Cumin was noted then a blast of Aniseed. The Potatoes, on both sides of the plate, were perfectly cooked. The bits that had been sat with the Mince gave off the greater depth of Flavour.

Again Green Chillies had been cooked in, the Aloo Gobi was not lacking a – kick.

I had to decide when to stop, how much Rice to leave, a few Peas also. Overall, a satisfying meal, Desi Fayre, but not at the same level as yesterday’s Beef Karahi, that was something extra special. Proof, if required, that Seasoning is crucial.

Shahzad had remembered that I am from Scotland. I sat one evening on a previous visit and discussed his long term plan to move to Glasgow. I had suggested trying to find premises in the East End where there is a dearth of Curry Houses. Covid put all plans on hold.

I asked if they had managed to stay open and serve Takeaway during Lockdown(s). Chilli Grill was closed for eighteen months. Now inflation is creating its own difficulties. Brutal.

The Bill

21.50 (£18.68)   Great value in this city.

The Aftermath

I had hoped to secure a photo of the Brothers Alvi, instead Shahzad took selfies of the three of us. These might turn up one day. I was then invited to come behind the counter and have my photo taken once more with Shahzad, Covid screens still in situ.

In recent years, September has been – Belgium month. If Dr. Stan comes up with a decent price for Eurostar, maybe a trip to Köln would permit nights here in both directions?

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Brussel – Chilli Grill – Sublime Beef Karahi

Discovered by chance one evening in 2018, after I had eaten, Chilli Grill (Rue Antoune 172, 1000 Brussel, Belgium) has proven to be a frustrating venue to find open, and when so, provide the desired Fayre. However, when it has delivered, the Curry has truly impressed.

Hector prefers to eat early afternoon, even earlier when on a trip. Chilli Grill have not always opened at the time advertised on Google. Today, no chances were being taken. Curry would be taken this evening, there was even a phone-call last night to verify they would be open. After the Covid enforced break, finally it was time to return to Chilli Grill.

It was 18.30 when Dr. Stan, Mags and Hector entered Chilli Grill. Yes, Dr. Stan was up for Curry-Heute. The man who prefers to travel by Eurostar, visiting Brussel regularly, and is even better known at Chilli Grill than Hector. We were recognised, but the chap serving was not he who appears in my last post here in 2019.

I took photos of the array of prepared Dishes on display. Chilli Grill is a Curry Cafe, not a Mainstream Restaurant. Desi Fayre is what one can expect.

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Mutton Karahi (€8.50) is what Hector was after. As has been declared previously, it may be Mutton on the menu, but Beef is served. This is freely admitted, not a con. Mags would follow Hector’s lead. Spicy – for Hector, – Medium – for Mags. Dr. Stan ordered Qeema (€8.00). Three portions of Plain Rice (€3.00) completed the Order. No drinks, we needed a break.

I never established if there was anyone else in the kitchen this evening. Our chap disappeared through the back, in time he emerged with the goods.

The Rice was a sensible portion, plus. I would surprise myself and manage every grain.

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Mutton (Beef) Karahi

No Toppings, the Herbs and sliced Green Chillies had been cooked in. The Meat to Masala ratio looked perfect. I counted into double figures as I arranged the Karahi over the Rice. The appearance of the Masala reminded me of my first Curry Recipe, something I no longer seem to be able to reproduce.

Mags was well ahead of me by the time the photographic ritual had been completed, and was first to declare:

This is amazing, by the way.

I had asked for – Spicy – indeed this was, but not to a level that could cause distress. The Seasoning felt on the low side initially, however, as I ate, so this revealed itself. Earthy, Peppery, was noted.

The Beef was suitably Tender, the Spice was bouncing back from the Meat on chewing. A Cumin blast took me aback. The Seasoning was growing but from what source? The Beef I concluded. This was the prefect combination of Meat and Masala. A Tomato-based Masala – I was assured by an expert who later saw my photo posted on a certain Social Medium. Stunning – was my final note here, I too spontaneously declared:

This is sensational!

Mags had more to say:

The meat was tender, the masala was perfect. The rice was light and fluffy. All in all, it was perfect.

Moments like these are rare, marking another definitive – Wow! Even by just looking at the above photo, the quality oozes from the screen. I cannot believe there is another Curry House in Belgium which serves a Karahi giving so much Flavour. Future trips permitted, I shall investigate in other cities, Afghan Darbar (Antwerpen) a must explore, however, in Brussel, it will take a lot to take me away from Chilli Grill.

Meanwhile across the table…

Qeema

Actually, Aloo Keema Mutter, though the Potatoes were not prominent. Again, the Herbs had been cooked in, Oil collected on the periphery. This appeared to be an authentic Keema.

Instead of his usual – Mmmmms – this evening, Dr. Stan uttered more – Aghs.

Tasty, spicy, just what you want – I managed to extract.

Wonderful as the Beef Karahi was, I resolved to return tomorrow and try the Qeema, the Aloo Gobi also looked tempting.

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The Bill

€34.00 (£29.51) Once again, the cheapest meal of the trip, and certainly – the best.

The Aftermath

Our appreciation was expressed and humbly received. There had to be a photo of – the other chap – to complement the one of Mein Host in 2019.

A 13.30 opening was confirmed for tomorrow. I shall most certainly be back.

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2022 Menu

 

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Gent – Kulba Kabul – Afghan Karai + R.I.P. Ma’am

Dr. Stan, Mags and Hector were monitoring events back home when the news broke. We shall always remember this visit to ‘t Brugs Beertje (Brugge).

Earlier in the day, Mags joined Hector at Restaurant Kulba Kabul (Wondelgemstraat 11, 9000 Gent, Belgium). Having checked out Afghan Darbar in Antwerpen yesterday, it was logical to look up Afghan Restaurants in Gent. Kulba Kabul is located in Rabot which lies to the north-west of the city centre.

We arrived at noon, one chap was already enjoying the fayre. The young chap on duty brought the menu. In time more staff would arrive, ladies, but there would be no engagement, a pity.

Karai van lams vlees (€25.00) was ordered, a meal for two with Bread and Salad included. Groene peper – was listed as one of the ingredients, I asked the chap to – throw them away. Cans of Fanta (€1.50) completed the Order.

This is real Afghan food? – I asked the chap.

The smile I took to be a positive, no banter.

This was Mags’ first appreciation of the difference between Belgian and British Fanta. When visiting Belgium, I am never far from a bottle of Fanta.

Two plates were brought, each with a pile of Meat and a Salad on the side. Two baskets of Bread also, not Naan, but something much more risen. Sadly the wonderfully soft Bread was not served hot.

The Salad consisted of an array of finely chopped Vegetables, the freshness was apparent. The Carrots were the standout, cold, shredded Carrot, mmm.

Karai van lams vlees

The quantity of Lamb was impressive. Sucky Bones stood out, this was  going to be a challenge. The Tomato-rich Masala appeared to have been poured over the Meat. One accepts that the Meat and Masala can be cooked separately, that is how I prepared my recently successful Karahi Gosht. Maybe I was expecting to see less Tomato in an Afghan Karai. Only Chef knows how long Meat and Masala had been in each others company, I suspect, not long.

The Masala may have contained Spice, but there was no heat whatsoever. Had the – throw away the Green Peppers – been lost in translation? Green Chillies would have been welcomed.

The Meat was quite simply – gorgeous, superbly Tender and with the Sucky Bones, full of Flavour. Again no heat, but certainly Spiced. The Seasoning was right where it should be, still there was a level of subtlety. The Coriander and Tomato in the Masala were the potent sources of Flavour.

The Karai was not hot in any sense of the word, this was lukewarm at best. I could write the Dish off as being not what I had hoped for, however, this interpretation of Karai was quite a revelation.

As we ate, so the reality of the portion became evident. Given what I paid at Royal India two night previously for eight pieces of Meat, no way were we sharing one portion. But why give us two portions, without confirmation, especially when there was an individual portion on offer at €15.00?

Mags gave a few words:

The meal was well cooked, very tender, I liked it. The sauce could have been spicier, the salad was fresh. The bread was amazing, and the Belgian Fanta was fab.

Two young mothers with prams entered in the middle of our visit, acknowledged us, and made a comment of approval when they saw our food. That was it, none of the new staff arrivals or the chap who served made any further interaction. It was time to pay, and go.

The Bill

€56.00 (£48.67)   Definitely the two portions then.

The Aftermath

The unfolding events back home pinged throughout the afternoon. I was still taken by surprise when the finality was announced.

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Antwerpen – Iman Hallal – The Return, plus a Revelation

When in Gent, there has to be a day trip to Antwerpen. Today would turn out to be an almost carbon copy of our day here in 2018. Once again Dr. Stan’s – Friend – would be our guide, Hector managed to escape to fulfil other duties.

I took the metro north from Antwerpen Centraal, Iman Hallal (Diepestraat 101, 2060 Antwerpen, Belgium) was again the destination. A simple Curry Cafe, this is Hector’s type of venue. Arriving at 13.30, I was the only customer for the next hour.

As before, the laminated – Snel Menu – was provided. In four years, prices have only increased by a Euro.

There were many items on the menu that I would not want, however, Lamb on-the-bone was the attraction. Lamsleevs Korma Met Naan (€9.00) was ordered along with two cans of Fanta (€1.50). Belgian Fanta, less Orange in colour, more Orange and bitter in Flavour, my favourite.

One Naan, two?

One, of course, one was enough.

For €9.00, this was quite a spread. A Grobschnitt Salad, and Raita would add to the Diversity. The Naan was a sensible size. With burnt blisters forming, the Bread had risen in the places where the perforations had not restricted this.

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Lamsleevs Korma

This is a Desi Korma, no Coconut or Cream here. The blended Masala had the distinctive look of authenticity. The Lamb count was into double figures. Today, the Lamb was suitably Tender, four years ago this was the source of the only criticism, tough Meat. Perhaps, in the back of Hector’s mind, there was a sense of duty coming back here to verify that they could do better.

I tipped the contents of the karahi on to the plate. I considered making a plate of Curry and Salad, then changed my mind. If nothing else was achieved, I got to admire the efficacy of the Masala, a traditional Curry.

The overall Spice and Seasoning were well pitched, the Meat tasted – Lamby – but was not giving back much Spice/Flavour otherwise. On a shelf facing me was a stock of packet Mixed Spices, Achar Gosht being in the majority. There was no sense of – Pickle – in the Korma, however, maybe subliminally, I was tasting – Packet Spice. But then, all my Spices come in a packet of sorts.

The plate was wiped clean, the bone count three. Bread and Salad had to be abandoned, I could eat no more.

The Bill

12.00 (£10.39) Excellent value for money.

The Aftermath

There was a lot more engagement with the staff on my first visit, not today. On leaving Iman Hallal, I walked the few blocks to locate Afghan Darbar Restaurant (Sint-Gummarusstraat 35, 2060 Antwerpen, Belgium). I had noted the existence of a few Afghan Restaurants in this area, however, Afghan Darbar is the only one listing Lamb Karahi in their menu. What a place, large, white, bright, I’ll be back, with an empty stomach.

Having met up with – Friend – and the rest of The Company, it was pointed out that Namaste has gone, bankrupt – was the given explanation.

Iman Hallal menu

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Gent – Royal India – Curry on a Tuesday? It has to be Royal India!

Finding Curry in Gent on a Tuesday evening, how difficult can it be? Eventually, I was well fed at Royal India (Donkersteeg 19, 9000 Gent, Belgium) but this was actually my fourth choice.

Punjab Tandoori (Sleepstraat 67, 9000 Gent, Belgium) have previously served a Lamb Karahi worthy of the Hector, this was therefore choice of venue #1. Arriving just before 18.00 they should have been open, however, I have had issues here in the past about not being open as advertised, particularly at lunchtime. The opening times are on the door, so what was happening? Hector Holmes sprung into action, I phoned, and got an answer. There was no convincing explanation as to why Punjab Tandoori was closed. I was assured they would be open tomorrow, but Antwerpen is calling. Thursday? No guarantee.

Having been to the two nearest venues to Punjab Tandoori and not been that impressed, I decided to schlep to Mission Masala – Gent (Bij Sint-Jacobs 19, 9000 Gent, Belgium). What a mistake to make.

The other customers were sat through the back, I was shown to a table front of house. The menu was brought, one side food, the other drinks. A – sharing menu – but I am only one. Hang on, there was something missing from the menu, Curry! I asked the young waiter – where’s the Curry? Being only his second day on the job, he did not understand my question, he fetched his boss.

Lamb Kofta Curry was mentioned in the Mission Menu (€69.50), that was it. What is Desi Pulpo (€15.00) about? Rubbery Indian Cuisine? This and other Dishes mentioned Butter, there was no sign of an actual – Masala – in the rest of the Fayre. The description for Oh My Gobi (€9.50) reads like an abuse of Cauliflower, and belongs on another menu.

Where’s the Curry? – I asked the Boss.

We do fusion food – was the reply.

Fusion food my arse, no I didn’t say that.  I have previously written about the ever growing number of Tapas venues, at least they serve Curry. This was just sh*te, an abomination of a menu.

Your menu is garbage – I did say – good luck.

For the second time in as many months, Hector walked out of an Indian Restaurant that had no – Curry.

Mission Masala is not a Curry House. I thought Google Maps, and hence the general public, should be made aware. My simple one liner received an almost immediate response. I added a bit more, time will tell if this gets published on Google, but it is here.

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Next, Taste of India – Gent (Donkerstateeg 11, 9000 Gent, Belgium), closed. To be fair, even Google shows them closed on Tuesdays. The menu looks quite decent, maybe one for the future. Fortunately, it was only a few doors down to Royal India, where I was greeted outside by the chap who would turn out to be the husband of Mein Hostess.

Royal India was stowed, well it would be, where else in Gent can you get a Curry-Heute? I was asked if I didn’t mind going upstairs. Here I had the room to myself, though others were brought up before being taken back downstairs as tables became available.

A young waiter brought the menu, a litre bottle of Sparkling Water (€6.50) felt like a good deal. The Lamb Dishes looked on the expensive side, but Rice was included, so no Jeera Rice (€4.00) would come my way. Lamb Rogan Josh (€20.00) was Hector’s choice.

#14? – asked the waiter.

No, #10!

Spicy – was agreed, the chap from outside made an appearance upstairs, he too verified – Spicy. Do the citizens of Gent not eat Spicy Curry? Another waiter also confirmed #10, and Spicy.

I was asked where I was from, as the husband of Mein Hostess took a seat with a friend across the room. There was a sense of – I told you.

The Rice portion was sensible, manageable, every grain would be eaten. No Euro wastage tonight. The chap asked why I hadn’t ordered Naan, that would have been a waste. He brought a small dish of – something very Spicy – just in case. Sitting in a private room, Hector was being well looked after.

Lamb Rogan Josh

I counted seven decent sized pieces, plus a tiddler, as I arranged the Meat on the Rice. The Masala was that of a classic Curry, blended with an oily sheen. The actual quantity of Oil was minimal.

The Lamb was suitably Tender and gave a – kick – back when eating. For the price charged, some more pieces would have been welcomed.

The Masala lacked Seasoning, finding Flavour was proving to be a challenge, but things would improve. The prevalent – Euro-Curry Taste – at least had been avoided. Although the Spice Level was acceptable, it was time to try the dangerous Side. Super Spicy Pickle – is what I noted, it might even have had a Horseradish base, I knew that care had to be taken here.

This certainly livened things up, somehow, I had much more Flavour in the Curry overall. The tip of my tongue may have been tingling, the remainder of my taste-buds were not tarnished. Things settled down, this Curry was proving to be enjoyable.

When I describe this Curry as – Mainstream – this is quite a compliment. In the early days of Curry-Heute I had some decidedly bland, Soupy Curry served to me in Belgium. Blandness seemed almost mandatory. If Royal India is representative of the current Belgian Curry scene, maybe things are improving.

The Bill

€24.00 (£20.66)  Paid by, card, downstairs.

The Aftermath

I had already given the Calling Card to the chap towards the end of my meal. He was ready to chat some more when I went downstairs to pay. He too was disparaging about Mission Masala, and worryingly thinks Punjab Tandoori may go out of business. Well if they don’t open their doors, that is inevitable.

Finally, I was introduced to the Lady, his charming wife and owner. A memorable visit, as a solo diner I was certainly looked after. The Curry wasn’t too shabby either.

Royal India : Menu extracts

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Glasgow – Raunak Raseeli India – #1 Curry of the day

Raunak Raveeli India (10 Clarendon St., Glasgow G20 7QD) has been open for about a year, Mein Host – Rohit – told me this afternoon. Somehow, Hector was only made aware of its existence in the past few weeks.

Hector arrived in Clarendon Street, off Maryhill Rd. at George’s Cross, at 13.50. This was going down memory lane, the Woodside Halls, at the top of the street, a venue where Hector was required to play the recorder back in the 1960s. If not there, then the Methodist Hall, now renamed – Community Hall.

Despite Maryhill Rd. selling a disproportionately high quantity of Takeaway Curry in Glasgow, there are only two Curry Houses in which one can dine: the former Shish Mahal, now operating as – Divans Darbar – and the more famous Killermont Polo Club. These are located further north in Maryhill proper, here in Woodside, there is definitely potential for a new Curry House.

Hector was the Lone Diner this afternoon. The menu was on the table. Raunak Raseeli India is another in the ever growing number of so called – Tapas – restaurants. My reaction is always – small portions, disproportionately high prices. Sharing the kilo is Hector’s style. However, if Curry-Heute is to maintain a comprehensive coverage of Glasgow Curry, these places have to be visited.

Tapas, I asked Rohit how many pieces of Meat are in a portion.

Four or five – was the response. So half portions then.

I decided that two Dishes should be within my capacity. Delhi Style Lamb (£7.95) is on-the-bone and also features Potato. Fish Masala (£6.95) should also reveal the efficacy of what is available. The search for the ultimate Fish Curry in Glasgow continues, Mother India’s Cafe, the original Glasgow Tapas Curry House still sets the standard. To accompany, a Naan (£2.75), though the inner voice was suggesting Rice. Let’s judge the quality of the Bread. A 330ml bottle of Sparkling Water (£2.25) completed the Order. For those who require that sort of thing, the place is licensed.

I could hear the preparatory – scraping – noises coming from the kitchen. A Takeaway order was received by phone. I admired the décor, where does one purchase the wallpaper with the Spices? One kitchen wall in Hector’s House? Marg would understand, emoticon understood.

The menu says that the food will come when it’s ready, which can complicate things. What happens if the Bread comes too early or too late? Rohit brought the array simultaneously.

On seeing the Curry, I knew I should have ordered Rice. The Naan, served in five pieces, did not impress. Greasy, not risen, not puffy, this was as much Puri as Naan. The lack of girth reminded me of my own attempts at cooking Naan. I managed four of the five pieces.

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Delhi Style Lamb

A big Sucky Bone protruded from the Masala, this was a good start. I would find four large pieces of Meat, three of which were on-the-bone. I considered emptying the pot on to my plate, but kept to my norm. This would prove to be an error.

Curry, not Karahi, so I had to reset my expectations. The Soupy Masala was quite Oily, however, this was within acceptable parameters. It was probably too late to order Rice, a spoon therefore became the utensil of choice.

The first dip of Naan into the Masala revealed a familiar taste, that of Mainland Europe. I have experienced this oft, I wondered if Chef had ever worked in Deutschland. My initial notes were therefore – Euro Curry, not the expected – British Curry taste. The Spice Level was not demanding, the Seasoning was well pitched.

The Meat was excellent, super-soft, full of Flavour, and had to be eaten with the fingers. This left the Masala for the spoon and further dips of Naan. The three pieces of Potato were a welcome addition, more solids.

The Brown Masala was Herb-rich, Coriander definitely, Methi possibly. As I ate so the overall Flavour changed. The Masala at the base of the pot tasted decidedly – Indian.

Whilst this Curry impressed, Rice most certainly would have been the better accompaniment, then the Masala might be better mixed on decanting. A double portion of Delhi Style Lamb is something Hector would certainly consider a worthy Curry.

Fish Masala

An orange Masala, slightly Creamy too, so markedly different from the above. I found four decent sized pieces of Fish when I raked around. The White Fish retained its integrity, Tilapia, OK, I asked. There was a Sweetness from the Fish which did not suit the Hector palate, add the creaminess, and this was not the Fish Curry that Hector dreams of.

A Fish Curry, not as well Seasoned as the Hector requires, it was far from being unpleasant. Strangely, as I reached the bottom of the pot, so the – Euro Curry – taste revealed itself once more. Nine years ago when I last dined at Killermont Polo Club, I made similar tasting notes. The Maryhill Curry Taste? Imagine the Germans opening a chain of food outlets in Scotland. German-style food in Scotland? That would never catch on. I digress.

Rohit asked the customary question. I recognised that I had two different Curry experiences, and praised the Lamb. Lamb on-the-bone is always welcome.

At this point, I felt it was time to introduce myself. The Calling Card produced, the first page shown on the Oppo was my last Curry creation, Rohit almost gasped when he saw the rich Tomato-based Masala. Yes, Hector will be mentioning this very successful home-cooked Karahi Gosht at every opperchancity.

Rohit told me of his upbringing in Delhi and the foothills of the Himalayas. There, Meat was a treat, once a fortnight was the norm. I had to ask if Chef had ever worked in Europe. Portugal – was the answer. This sparked further conversation. That the Portuguese were responsible for what we call – Curry – was discussed, and the sources of the various ingredients as trade evolved. This was Hector Heaven.

Inevitably, the current rate of inflation became a major part of our chat. As with Mr. Baig at The Village “Curry House”, he recognises there is a limit to what people will pay to dine out. I was particularly amused by his comparison of a £15.00 Italian Chicken Dish with the greater complexities of preparing a Chicken Curry.

Chicken Curry? Why bother?

Dessert was declined, more than once.

When I bring my wife, she’ll accept Dessert.

Methi Keema Peas (£7.95) will hopefully be assessed by Marg. Laal Maas (£7.45) should entice the Hector back.

The Bill

£19.90 Enjoy these prices whilst one can, a comment I shall be repeating for the foreseeable.

The Aftermath

Such was the level of rapport established, there had to be a photo. Chef Deena was invited to participate. Raunak Raveeli India is open all afternoon, I’ll be back.

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2022 Menu

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Glasgow – Madhras Dosa – #2 Curry of the day

Curry – #2, or is it #3 – Heute? Having sat opposite Madhras Dosa (76B, Old Dumbarton Rd, Glasgow, G3 8RE) this evening, I wasn’t going to pass on the opperchancity to finally have a Curry here under the new branding. As reported in June when I passed Madhras Dosa en route to Mela at Kelvingrove, Chef Satheesh assured me they would be open in the afternoons by now. Madhras Dosa opened at 17.00 today.

At 21.20, Chapatti John declared he would accompany Hector, the South Indian Garlic Chilli Chicken (£5.99) is a Curry he was keen to revisit. I crossed the road from the newly refurbished Grunting Growler to check what was the latest we could come and sit in. 21.30 – the young chap informed me. Wtf?

We entered Madhras Dosa at 21.29, three of the five tables were occupied. Having lost the overflow room next door, for which the Banana Leaf signage has been once again exposed, space is limited. Madhras Dosa is primarily a Takeaway, the South Indian Cuisine being quite a departure from that on offer in the surrounding venues.

Lamb Chukka has gone from the menu. It took years for Hector to establish that Banana Leaf did serve this Dry Lamb Curry, tonight it was back to the – SoupyLamb Chettinad (£6.99). I see the – u – has been dropped from – Chettinadu. Both of us would – go large – for an extra £1.99, yes, Madhras Dosa remains a – Tapas – House.

The Curry used to include the choice of Bread or Rice, the revamped menu does not. John asked for three Chapattis (£1.00), Hector, the wonderful Malabar Paratha (£2.50). The young waiter reported – no Chapattis – and so John took the decision to invest in three Malabar Paratha. They are small, the quantity would therefore not be an issue, however, the price becomes outrageous. Tap Water completed the Order.

Chef acknowledged me from behind the counter, there was a brief moment when he was not working flat out. I approached the counter and enquired about – the facilities. I was invited behind the counter and through to the back kitchen where two chaps were doing the preparation. Downstairs from here is what I was looking for, they were fine. On my return, another young chap was blending the Onions in The Big Pot, a sight to behold and to share!

For those who have yet to try a Malabar Paratha (Parotta), they are a major departure from the norm. Thicker, flakier, softer, always smaller, they are more Buttery than a traditional Paratha. One day I shall order two, John took care of his three.

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Lamb Chettinad

Soupy and Creamy, usually these are the negatives in Curry-Heute, but not when the Masala packs this much Flavour. The mandatory dried Red Chilli was present giving the required – smokiness. Curry Leaves – also, which I have only recently discovered add to this. With a Big Peppery blast, tasty.

I decanted to the plate to see exactly what I had before me. Was this a Happy Hector? Not today. This was the – large – portion? Six, not particularly large pieces of Meat and two tiddlers hardly justified the price. It might look a plateful, this was a side-plate, not a dinner plate.

South Indian Garlic Chilli Chicken

Less Peppery in appearance, the Masala was also a bit darker. Otherwise, the same Soupy Curry. I am unlikely ever to order this, Hector, Chicken Curry? John assured me it was wonderful:

One of the best South Indian Garlic Chilli Chicken I’ve ever eaten. The Breads were a delight, but expensive.

John was finished before me. He commented upon my methodical gathering of the Masala and scraping up with the Paratha. He ate my Red Chilli, stupid boy. Usually we are sharing a kilo of Karahi Gosht and it’s a matter of when we wave the flag. Plates wiped clean to this extent, again says something about the portion size.

The Bills

I’m not actually convinced we received four Parathas. Anyway, we were each charged for two. There was a cash adjustment afterwards. But why the different pricing?

The Aftermath

There was a quick chat with Chef, hopefully they will find the staff to open earlier else it could be a long, long time before Hector gets back here.

Enough Meat to feed a Mouse – was how John later described my Curry.

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Hector Cooks – Tomato-based Karahi Gosht, and finally succeeds!

For years, Hector has been celebrating the wonder that is the Tomato-based Masala, an integral part of authentic Punjabi Karahi. The method has been hinted at by Chefs, previous attempts have fallen short. Creating the rich texture and killer taste has remained a mystery, my attempt this evening may well have cracked it.

The absolute simplicity of Namkeen Karahi has suggested that less is more, it was therefore a case of what to leave out. Studying a variety of sources, it was decided to abandon many of the ingredients that would appear in a standard Curry Recipe. Turmeric, Clove, Cinnamon, Cardamom and Onion would be omitted. Tomatoes, loads of, Green Chillies, Chilli Powder, Cumin Seeds, Coriander Seeds, Ginger and Garlic, Methi and fresh Coriander would suffice. There was one trick with the Tomatoes that I had never tried before, would this really make the difference?

To create a smooth Masala without blending on the hob, I blitzed fresh Ginger in some Ginger paste. This was added to the hot Oil with Garlic paste. Today I was using my aluminium karahi, a pot used sparingly as everything sticks. Similarly, teaspoons of Cumin Seeds and Coriander Seeds were ground, these to be added later. This was a minimalist – Garam Masala.

The majority of the Tomatoes had been frozen to preserve them during our last trip. These defrosted Tomatoes would prove to be particularly suited to the great trick. The halved Tomatoes were cooked in the Oil, Garlic and Ginger for ten minutes, no stirring.

With kitchen tongs, the skins were pulled off, a much simpler task than I thought this would be. In time, even the fresh Tomatoes released their skins. Previously, I have blitzed fresh Tomatoes when attempting to make this style of Masala, the result has been an unsavoury white mass.

A generous squirt of Tomato Puree felt appropriate, all of this before introducing the Spices.  The Tomato skins removed, I stirred for the first time. It was then as if the Tomatoes wanted to become a Masala. The difference astonished, the Masala simply formed before my eyes, and no Onions. 

Nothing was sticking to the karahi, this was a first. Onions may be the cause of the sticking, I concluded. A Curry without Onions, no tears either. Everything was going well.

Teaspoons of Kashmiri Chilli and a more fiery one were added along with the ground Cumin and Coriander Seeds. Everything Hector cooks has ground, coarse, Black Pepper and a sufficiency of Salt. In they went, a good stir, and I was still surprised that nothing was sticking to the karahi. The Oil began to separate, the telltale sign that the Masala was cooking.

There had to be Herbs. I managed to rein in the Methi, a modest tablespoon compared to the forest of Coriander. Three sliced Green Chillies should be sufficient, no need to go crazy.

A mere twenty five minutes had passed and I had the makings of a worthy Tomato-based Masala  before me. To add Yoghurt or not. Some say no, I believe the majority are for it. Earlier in the year, I overdid the Yoghurt, today a tablespoon. However, before adding, I let the whole mass cool for some twenty minutes to avoid curdling. After adding the Yoghurt, I brought the temperature back up and cooked the Herbs for a further ten minutes.

Time to taste. Oh yes!


Note the line drawn across the page.

This is where so many recipes and video demonstrations fudge reality. Lamb does not cook in twenty minutes. Cooking Lamb in the Masala is going to burn the Masala. The Meat has to be precooked. Today I added leftover Lamb from earlier in the year. The Recipe is here, and yes, I admit, this Lamb was cooked in Onion, Tomatoes, and many of the ingredients I had eschewed today. It’s all about the Sauce, I was confident that my Tomato-rich Masala would dominate.

Time to eat.

I wasn’t making Bread today, so Rice it had to be. For once, my Rice let me down. I ignored the microwave – ding – and did not drain the Rice, it went a bit stodgy.

Foliage smothered the Karahi Gosht with Rice, here we go.

Hector’s Curry tends to turn out tasting like – Hector’s Curry. Finally, the breakthrough, this tasted nothing like I have ever cooked before. The true Desi Masala Flavour was there,  Karahi Palace flashed through my mind. Steady on, Hector. Actually, it was that good. The Spice was far from stressful, the Seasoning a la Hector. The Lamb, thoroughly cooked at a previous time, did come across as though it had only met the Masala, it had. The Flavours from the Lamb were therefore a counterpoint to those from the Masala. The best of both Worlds?

I can see this being repeated soonest. Marg is in Aberdoom, a neighbour became a guinea pig. I’m proud of this – was my justification.

Tinned Tomatoes have formed the base of so much of my cooking. Fresh Tomatoes, skins removed, clearly create a better result. My next Spag Bol may test this. Tins no more? Maybe we’ll have no choice. Sky News report that UK Tomato growers are not going to bother planting them this year due to spiralling energy costs. Maybe it’ll be back to Onion-based Masala next year.

In the meantime, there might be a bit of Karahi cooking in the coming weeks.

Posted in Hector's Cooking | 1 Comment

Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – Karahi Palace is closed – temporarily!

Having had one of her legendary Salads for lunch, Marg was content today to come and watch Hector have his Curry at Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ). Imagine the shock when the shutters were found to be – down! The sign posted on August 9 gave some information but offered no explanation. Closed for three weeks already, Glasgow cannot afford to lose the Karahi Palace.

And so along to The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA) it was. The number of diners was in single figures when we entered at 14.10. It may be the August Bank Holiday Monday, but not in Scotland.

The waitress led us a small table, Lunch Menu in hand. I asked for the Main Menu. Today I was able to photograph the latest edition and so record the recent, and necessary, price increases. In the World of Curry, Hector estimates the current rate of inflation to be around 20%.

As I took my seat, I recognised a well kent face that I hadn’t seen since before Lockdown #1. Behold, Curryspondent John! I wonder how much Curry we have eaten between us since our last meeting?

It’s back! – I told Marg excitedly. This is proving to be a day of exclamations. Not that Marg shared my excitement. Desi Qorma Lamb on Bone (£12.95) disappeared from the last version of the menu, only the Chicken Desi Qorma was printed. However, as was established through time, Lamb Desi Qorma was available on demand, albeit – Boneless.

Given the nature of the Masala, there had to be Rice: Mushroom Rice (£3.50).

A well priced large bottle of Sparkling Water (£2.95) was ordered along with a Latte (£2.95), for Marg.

Despite the given name of my chosen Curry, I asked for it to be – extra Desi!

Marg wondered why I hadn’t given my usual caveat, at The Village, there is no needless Capsicum.

I spotted a Biryani go to another table, ah the days of the Village Vegetable Rice. Hector’s moment arrived.

The Mushroom Rice was a decent plateful. With Fresh Mushrooms, enough Diversity on offer. Every grain of Rice would be eaten.

*

*

Desi Qorma : Lamb on Bone

It’s good to be home. The Coriander and Ginger Strips topped the mass of Meat and Masala. The Meat count was into double figures; the bone count was four, two of which were – Sucky! I left some of the Wonderful Masala in the karahi for the end game.

When Curry-Heute was conceived, I had to stop eating this Curry twice a week.  There wouldn’t have been much of a Blog otherwise.

A whole Clove was taken in the first mouthful, quite dramatic. This took the palate in the direction of Manchester Curry. As I ate on, so the warmth of Flavour developed. The Seasoning was decidedly – brave. Marg was witnessing the degree of my pleasure.

The Lamb was super-soft. Slow cooking – is mentioned in the description, this Lamb was right on the edge, chewing was minimal, almost – melt in the mouth. So much Flavour, glorious. The Sucky Bones were seriously – hot – to touch.

The Tomato-rich Masala released some of its Oil on the periphery of that which remained. Almonds? I saw none, perhaps ground and mixed in? I was less aware of the Citrus which I enjoyed so much in my early years at The Village. A different Chef, today – the Manchester Chef. Just the one Clove, it made quite an impact.

The karahi was emptied in time to mop up the remaining Rice and Mushrooms. For years I told Mr. Baig, Mein Host, that this was both a happy and sad moment. Total satisfaction achieved, one cannot help wanting more. This remains one of the finest Curry Experiences in Glasgow.

Marg’s Coffee impressed. Accompanied by both a biscuit and a chocolate mint, she felt this was the treat she sought:

Just what I needed.

Ditto.

The Bill

£22.35    Enjoy these prices whilst one can.

The Aftermath

I sent out a couple of feelers this afternoon.

Qaiser, who worked at Karahi Palace is hopeful that they will reopen on September 1st – Thursday. He is also confident that Chef Rashid will be back.

So many positive waves.

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Barcelona – Haveli Restaurant – Impressive in 2018, Outstanding in 2022!

Barcelona! 

How did Hector end up here? Those who have been following Marg and Hector’s travels in the past two weeks have witnessed Curry treats firstly in Athena and then Roma. It was all down to attractive flight prices. A trip abroad during the school holidays is something we thought we would not be repeating; why travel at peak rates when we no longer have to? The flight to Athena was irresistible, the fare home not. The afternoon flight to Roma was a better alternative, and so on. Eventually I found a price back to Scotland that was agreeable.

With time for only one Curry in Barcelona, there was the choice of a return to one of the three venues previously reviewed, or search for somewhere new. I chose to ignore a well known and reliable Curry Blog and start from scratch. Eventually I encountered the above photo posted by Amina for Haveli Restaurant (Carrer de Cabanas, 32, 08004 Barcelona, España). Spot the Desi Masala and the Lamb and on-the-bone. It cannot be coincidence that Haveli is one of my three previously visited Curry Houses.

We were the first customers of the day at 12.30. I had the Oppo at the ready with the photo of Mein Host from 2018. Today it was a different chap. A small table in the middle of the restaurant was allocated. I showed my photo to our waiter who then pointed upwards. Was he in heaven, or upstairs?

Next up it was Amina’s photo. What Curry is this? – I asked knowing full well it had to be the Mutton Karahi €10.95). This was confirmed.

Previously, I had suggested to Marg that she have the Butter Chicken (€10.50). Maggie enjoyed this back in 2018, when Clive and I had the – Mutton Karahi! The 2018 Mutton Karahi certainly did not look anything like the recent photo.

Medium Spice was agreed for Marg, Spicy for Hector.

To accompany, once again we would share a Vegetable Biryani (€8.95), plus a Tawa Roti (€0.70). Our waiter said it was too early for Bread, then moments later returned to say the Roti was possible. Finally, ordered two 250ml bottles of Agua con Gas (€2.50), and soon thereafter a third. Expensive Water.

I cannot help notice that at Gandhi 2, our most recent Curry in Roma, the Bread prices were ridiculous, the Water not. In Barcelona, the opposite holds.

The wait was commensurate with what we had ordered. Another customer arrived and took a table along what would have been a bar at some point in the past. A mature lady came in and took a seat near the doorway, a Takeaway? It was good to see that we were not the only people craving Curry this Monday lunchtime.

Vegetable Biryani

The waiter brought the pot to the table with a foil lid in situ. After the photo, he then stirred up the contents of the pot to create an even more photogenic Biryani. I concluded the Vegetables had been steamed in the pot with the Rice. Would this work in a microwave?

There was enough Rice for two generous portions. Carrots were the prominent Vegetable. Peas, Broccoli, minimal Potato, Cauliflower and slivers of both Red and Green Capsicum completed the array. The latter were easily picked out and set aside if desired.

I did so.

The large Roti was served halved. Of the Wholemeal variety, I was impressed that it did not turn crispy as is too often the norm. Raita arrived too, I think this was not touched.

Mutton Karahi

Ginger strips and the merest sprinkling of Coriander sat atop the Masala. As I decanted the Curry to my plate, so the efficacy of the Desi Masala became evident. This was a classic Tomato-based Masala. The Mutton was on-the-bone, actually this was the second time I have had Lamb this way in Barcelona, cf Tabaq South Asian Restaurant, therefore not when I had the Mutton Karahi here last time.

Normally, I would savour the Rice so as to establish its contribution to the overall meal in terms of Spice and Seasoning. The Hector was impatient, lets get the first dip of Roti into this Masala.

Oh yes – as Churchill says in a well known TV ad. This was it, the veritable Desi Masala. The Seasoning registered immediately, bang on! The Spice was not challenging, that would have taken some feat given last week’s Vindaloo experience in Roma. This Curry would be all about the Flavour.

The Meat count reached double figures, just. I was keeping back the biggest piece with the Sucky Bone until the end. The pronounced taste of Mutton/Lamb came over strongly, the Spices in the Meat were more subtle. Add to this the variety of Textures from the assorted Vegetables, and here was one of the truly wonderful Curry moments.

Back to the Masala, no Whole Spices, nothing been given away, however, one could not attain this depth of Flavour without the correct blend of Herbs and Spices. If only I knew the secret. I used the Roti to scoop up the remnants of the Masala in the pot – Mmmm. I knew I would have to abandon the Bread if I was going to finish all on my plate. Only traces of Oil were present in the entire Dish. Only near  the end did I realise that I had but the two bones. There was still a lot of Meat shrouding the Sucky Bone, my final pleasure.

This Mutton Karahi was remarkable. I should therefore make more remarks. I’ll continue with – this was my Best Curry of the trip!

Butter Chicken

What appeared to be Dessicated Coconut topped the Orange-Yellow Masala. The appearance was significantly different from 2018 when the Masala was a brilliant yellow. The Creaminess remained, a feature of this – Curry for the ladies. Marg’s verdict:

A creamy and rich buttery sauce with plenty of Chicken. The Vegetable Biryani was full of Peppers, Carrots, Peas, and Broccoli which gave the dish a variety of textures and flavours making this a wonderful experience.

Having given this quote, there was a moment of re-evaluation.

Chicken’s quite boring you see, but this combination added to the whole meal.

As the waiter cleared the table, he asked the customary question. I pointed to my empty Curry pot:

That was beautiful, on-the-bone makes such a difference.

The Bill

€38.65 (£32.79)  Note: €7.50 of this was for the Sparkling Water.

The Aftermath

It was time to address the mystery of – up.

Our host turned on the lights and invited us to inspect the upstairs seating area. It was at this point I realised, it was the chair he had recognised not the occupant. If so, then I deduce that Haveli has changed management since 2018.

A few hours later, over an ice cold drink, there was an audible burp from across the table.

I had lots of Peppers.

Are they repeating on you?

I think I’ll write that down.

QED!

2022 Menu extracts

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