Brugge – In-Dish – Times, are they a changing?

Curry in Brugge is certainly under-reported in these pages. In the first months of Curry-Heute, Hector watched Taj Mahal come into being, it is going strong as observed yesterday in passing. The Curry reviewed in 2011 was on a day Taj Mahal was actually closed, the Hector refusing to accept – no – for an answer.

Accommodation in Brugge is usually overpriced, this year it proved to be more competitive than Gent, so here we are. The number of Curry Houses in Brugge has multiplied in the time of Curry-Heute, but one venue in particular  has been on the – must visit – list for some years.

Any serious Bier drinker who has ever been to Brugge, has walked down Kemelstraat. Brugge’s, and possibly Belgium’s, most famous Bier House – ‘t Brugs Beertje – lies halfway down this side street. In-Dish (Kemelstraat 9, Brügge 8000 Belgien) is next door, therefore Hector has been aware of its existence for some time. With no breakfast on offer at the Ibis Budget, Dr. Stan and Mags saw Curry as being the logical start to the day.

We assembled at 13.00, Dr. Stan being already in situ and tucking in to a 200ml bottle of the distinctive Belgian Fanta (€3.00). Despite the outrageous lack of value, three more bottles were ordered plus a 500ml bottle of Sparkling Water (€5.00).

Dr. Stan failed to spot that Rice was included in the price of Curry and ordered a Garlic Naan (€4.00). We decided that this would be shared. The grid layout of the Curry section simplified matters. We would all have Lamb, of course. Dr. Stan has admitted that he hears a voice in his head when choosing from a Curry menu – don’t have Chicken. I wonder whose voice that could be?

Curry Home Style (€18.50) was hopefully – Desi-style. If so, then the Hector could be in raptures. Chilli Grill (Brussel) is the only Curry House in all of Belgium known to serve such cuisine. I dropped – Desi – into the Order, it did not appear to register with Mein Host. The Spice Level was then verified.

It is spicy – I was assured.

Dr. Stan opted for Lamb Saag whilst Mags took an even bigger risk – Lamb Karai. That we had each ordered a different Curry was good for this Blog. I had visions of a Creamy mass of Spinach being presented to Dr. Stan and a stir-fry of Capsicum and Big Blobs of Onion to Mags. Hopefully In-Dish was better than this, but this is Belgium.

Whilst we waited, we were entertained (?) by a stream of Bollywood hits. The music then took a strange turn, the introduction to one composition set the scene, the Great Plains: Indian cowboy music.

The three Curry pots arrived, accompanied by a big pot of Basmati for sharing. There was enough Rice for three sensible portions, and no wastage. The Garlic Naan was presented in bits, strike one. Thin, peely, wally, and hardly risen, I was almost writing it off. There were signs of puffiness and one piece had distinctly less Garlic, Hector’s bit, obviously.

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Curry Home Style

I arranged the nine pieces of meat, mostly large, on top of the Rice. The sauce looked like an authentic pureed Masala. This was way better than Belgium Curry of thirteen years ago when some horror stories were served in Gent.

Bay Leaves, and both Black and Green and Cardamom were encountered. Whole Spice, always a good sign.

This was indeed a Spicy Curry, there was an impressive – kick – which was not letting go. The Seasoning was below the Hector idyll, but acceptable.

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Most of the Lamb was found to be firm but not too chewy. There was a Tangy Flavour from the Masala, but not the depth of flavour from a Desi Curry, but this was definitely decent. The Whole Spices certainly added to the efficacy.

Every grain of Rice on my plate was devoured, a well judged quantity of Curry and Rice.

A decent Curry therefore, but after eat-Doori (Köln) three days ago, only something catastrophic would not have been an improvement

Lamb Saag

In Deutschland, as is written above, Saag/Palak is often served as a Creamy mass of Herbs pretending to be a Masala. This actually looked like a genuine Palak: a Masala with Herbs. When Dr. Stan picked out a five centimetre piece of Cinnamon Bark, here was the proof that we had the real deal. There was an early – Mmmmm – from the good doctor.

I enjoyed it, it was a good Curry, a spicy Curry. A bit short on the spinach, but plenty of meat. A good Methi flavour.

There was Methi? And not a Spinach overdose? This ticks the boxes.

Lamb Karai

OK, not a stir-fry, there was enough Masala to define this as a Curry. In what way was was this a Karahi? The Masala looked to be the same as served in the Home Style Curry.

Mags said she didn’t mind the presence of Capsicum, big bits too, and the anticipated Big Blobs of Onion. Neither of these should be present in a true Karahi, however, in Mainstream Curry Houses, this is what they get away with. The Curry-Heute Campaign shall continue – no Ballast!

As a Curry, Mags enjoyed her meal, but she knows what it could have been:

A lot of meat in the Curry. it could have been more tender. A well spiced masala to give a bit of heat. Went well with the boiled rice and Garlic Naan. I would go back.

Mein Host came to check on our progress, I gestured to my empty plate, he laughed.

Who needs words?

A lady came to clear the table, I asked if she was the Chef?

He’s the Chef.

Now we know.

The Curry today was better than most experienced in Belgium, not a difficult thing to achieve, but maybe it is such is the level.

There’s hope for the Belgian Mainstream? Times, are they a changing?

The Bill

€76.85 (£66.52) Nothing is cheap in Belgium.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was given to Mein Host, the Chef. I showed him the page for Chilli Grill, my favourite Belgian Curry House. I was trying to get across – Desi – once more. That we had all enjoyed our meals was relayed. Given the familiar locus of In-Dish, we may all return.

Mein Host is from Delhi, cue the opperchancity to show places visited. He did of course recognise Gulati Restaurant.

Menu

 

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Köln – eatDOORI Restaurant – Moderne indische Küche – Street Food, not a Curry House

Curry in Köln, with seventeen Curry Houses reviewed to date, the better ones more than once, the easy choice for today was to return to the tried and tested. Perhaps against better judgement, the Hector decided to visit the Köln outlet of the chain: eatDOORI Restaurant – Moderne indische Küche (Hohenzollernring 19, 50672 Köln Deutschland). This is one of five outlets across north and west Deutschland.

There was a rendezvous with Steve at 12.45. We were both five minutes early, and so entered the otherwise empty restaurant. A few customers sat at the outside tables. The waitress greeted and invited us to choose any table. A well situated table for two was selected. Despite the dim lighting, the Hector was able to capture photos of the modern layout, but maybe not the menu.

For Hector, there was only one Curry: Lamb Bhuna (€18.90) with inclusive Basmati. The alternatives were Chicken or Prawn variants, these too were limited. Steve would take the Lamb Bhuna option also.

You only have one Curry – I informed the waitress as she took the Order. This was not challenged. Steve ensured that we would be served an – above medium – Spice Level. He also added a Butter Naan (€2.90).

The reverse side of the menu had drinks. Nimbu Pani (€4.20), home-made lemonade completed the Order. A traditional Indian lemonade, this had a Spicy edge. Black Salt is apparently a key ingredient. This I have not seen in Glasgow’s Asian supermarkets, but then I haven’t been looking.

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At 12.52 there was a – ding – in the kitchen, another opperchancity to call in the Guinness chaps. Twelve minutes beats Shaha Tandoori (Carlisle,England).

The karahi were placed on the plates with the ample Rice portions. Steve had two little pots of distraction, one crossed the table. With Onion, Carrot and Cucumber, enough to provide a bit of Diversity. The Naan was quartered and served in a tall pot. Thin, peely wally, not risen, no blisters, as poor a Naan as one might encounter.

Lamb Bhuna

Shorva, really? In what way was this a Bhuna?

On arranging the Meat over the Rice, I reached double figures, Steve was already commenting on how little he had. The aroma from the Masala had me mentally registering – ah, Bisto!

I was already wishing I had gone elsewhere.

The Lamb was Tender and was giving of Flavour. However, the Flavour was very much of that which registers as Spice from a packet mixture, Cinnamon may be the standout. There was a decent – kick – and the Seasoning was decidedly satisfactory. Steve reckoned something like Tabasco had simply been stirred in at the end to up the Spice. There were positives, but overall, the depth of Flavour was lacking, this did not taste of authentic Curry.

The waitress came to ask the customary question.

This is not a Bhuna – I informed her – Bhuna should have a much thicker sauce, you can tell your Chef.

I spared her – minimal Masala, as in Dry, not Soup!

She offered to change it.

To what? You only have one Curry!

The compromise was that a Thicker Sauce would be provided. A few minutes later, and that did not surprise, a single karahi of a Thicker Masala was presented.

Masala #2 had a much greater viscosity. Why had we not been given this at the start?

Here was a more potent and complex Flavour, Steve was first to identify – smokiness. Now we had something more recognisable, a South Indian Bhuna perhaps. Bay leaves and micro-sliced Green Chillies were encountered. Masala #2 was even Spicier, not a problem.

Chef passed us by and smiled. We were at least eating his Curry. It still tasted as if the Spice mix had come straight from a packet.

As a Euro-portion of Rice, this was too much for Steve, but somehow I managed the lot. To have a photo of two karahi on top of a clean plate might be a first.

Steve’s verdict:

Too much Rice, the meat, in my case, was sparse. The meat was tender. Not a great Curry, with added Chilli/Tabasco added at end (of cooking). The sauce (#2) that came was perfectly acceptable.

Over-priced, I wouldn’t rush back.

The Bill

€49.10 (£42.23) The unit price of Curry is more than that typically charged for main courses of local fayre in Bier Houses.

The Aftermath

I have good news for you – I put to the waitress as I presented the Calling Card. This was graciously accepted with a comment as to why I was able to identify the failings of the Bhuna.

I showed her the drop-down menu at the top of the Curry-Heute page. There are recipes, you should show your Chef, there’s one for Bhuna!

Alas, being part of a chain, the above criticisms must be levied against whoever is in overall charge. One hopes the Street Food may show signs of efficacy.

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Manchester – Kabana – Visit #50 !!!!!

Mr. Manchester! – is yet another moniker acquired by this intrepid reporter. On arriving at Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England) at 13.05, Rizwan, Mein Host greeted me with news that three Scottish ladies had been there a couple of weeks back. One was a former colleague of Howard and also a former pupil of Hector. Howard’s name was acknowledged, the Hector’s not.

She wouldn’t know me by that name – (or Mr. Manchester).

As I ate, all was revealed to Rizwan, now he knows.

With this being a passing through Manchester visit, today’s Curry had to be –  Karahi Lamb (£6.00) on-the-bone, of course, n top of the customary bed of Rice (£1.50). The – on-the-bone – kettle was in the process of being topped up, as was today’s special – Nehari (£6.80). Rizwan’s #2 was adding the Coriander topping to the Nehari, he almost insisted that the moment be recorded. I took the usual photo of – the foliage – also, then took my seat.

The water jug on the table was immediately replaced.

Sunday lunchtime, and the majority of the tables were occupied. Two family groups were present, an economic day out: five fed for under £50.00. Two adjacent chaps ordered Chips, wtf? Then Lamb Chops were presented, two Naan and two portions of Nehari. Well gone are the days of Hector  sitting down to that quantity of food. As for the Nehari, the customary dark brown Shorva was not revealing any Meat. There was no sign of a Lamb Shank here. But then Kabana’s Karahi bears little resemblance to that served at Lahori Badsha, another favourite Manchester Curry House on Cheetham Hill Road.

Today I counted three new members of staff out front, wiping and clearing. Such is the conveyor belt of customers in the early afternoon, that the management of the tables is crucial. Then there’s those waiting for Takeaway, and the phone orders. Kabana is that popular, and today marks Hector’s #50 Visit! Only three Curry Houses, in Glasgow, have passed this landmark in Curry-Heute.

Rizwan brought two plates, one with the Curry & Rice, the other, a generous helping of – the foliage.

Karahi Lamb

The naked Karahi had to be photographed so that one can appreciate the – before and after. I started eating from the edge of the plate to taste the rich Masala before the meal was transformed. The Spice Level was already impressive. The Seasoning registered as a tad below the idyll in Hector’s non-digital memory of the dozens of times I’ve had this Curry at Kabana. With the sliced Green Chillies, fresh Coriander and cubed Ginger mixed in, the full blown Kabana experience was underway.

If there was an award, and who wins awards, for the best butcher supplying a Curry House, then Rizwan’s would surely win? The Lamb was incredible. One could envisage sucking it through a straw. So soft, yet integrity maintained. And having sat in the kettle waiting to be served, it had fully absorbed the Flavours from the Masala. The bones seemed to have three masses of Meat on each one. This was in addition to the boneless pieces. The foliage makes this Curry more than just Meat and Masala. Take one’s time, savour every moment, every grain of Rice will be managed.

Was that nice? – asked one of the wipers as I cleared the plate.

Glorious! – was the considered response, not – very.

I took a few moments to have some water, let the food settle. Apparently, Manchester has other attractions which keep bringing us back. For the Hector, Curry is always first on the agenda.

The Bill

£7.50 This makes a mockery of the Mainstream Curry Houses.

The Aftermath

I informed Rizwan that this was a one visit trip, however, we shall be mob handed next month. I’ll be back at Kabana, and there will be the opperchancity to visit other venues.

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Glasgow – Yadgar – The Monday Club

It’s Monday, the Hector is still in Glasgow. Prior to meeting up with The Monday Club, there would be Curry-Heute, it is written. Being a non-hockey Monday, Marg knew this was her best chance of being fed today. For once, Marg got to choose the venue.

We arrived at Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) five minutes after the 14.00 opening time. The shutters were up, a Takeaway customer was in situ. She praised the Fayre here.

It’s not just amongst the best in Glasgow, it’s the best in the country – also sprach Hector.

Shafiq as ever had opened the premises. Having surveyed the ready Dishes, Shafiq then talked me through them. Most of the Order would pick itself, however, a quite rare Daily Special was on display.

Last week, Lord Clive of Crawley sent me a recipe for a Spicy Lentil Soup. On examination, this was essentially a Daal. After two attempts at Desi Korma, I was not about to rush in here, but Daal/Dansak was imprinted in the consciousness. Today’s Special – Daal Gosht!

Daal Gosht / Lamb Dansak has appeared in these pages when Shkoor, Mein Host, sent food parcels to Clydebank during Lockdown. Clive tends to have Chicken Dansak. As with a Korma, not a Desi Korma, maybe Chicken works better? Here was the opperchancity to rediscover the Daal Gosht.

Shafiq noted the Order: one portion of Fish Pakora, two Chapli Kebap, one portion of Aloo Chicken Keema, one portion of Daal Gosht, one Chapatti.

There was a voice from the seating area challenging the Chicken Keema. I had to convince Marg that this is what she had seen under the counter, and that she has had this as often as Lamb Keema.

The staff were filing in, a welcome back to Naveed who has been off on his travels. With the kitchen staff in place, the Takeaway customers were being catered for. The 14.00 rush intrigued, maybe a case for opening at least an hour earlier?

The young waiter, who I have yet to name, enquired about drinks. A jug of tap water would suffice. In time, he brought the Starters.

Chapli Kebap

Served with small pots of Raita and a Chilli Sauce, I have established that two is too much before a main course Curry. Marg took one half, she knows her limits. In effect a Spicy Chicken Burger, but these offer way more in terms of Flavour.

The Meatiness, Herb and Spice content make Chapli a wonderful snack. Note to self, when Marg has the car, order half a dozen as Takeaway.

Fish Pakora

Nine, many large, pieces of Haddock in a Spicy Batter, six came Hector’s way, yum. The moment was enhanced by pouring over the heated Chilli Sauce. This always makes the Fish Pakora even better. Fish Pakora, not a huge departure from traditional Scottish Fayre, but the added Spice creates a transformation. A Fishy Delight, and with accompanying Chapli, Hector’s favourite Yadgar Starter combination.

A simple Salad arrived as we were tucking in. This was certainly appreciated by Marg who loves her Salad.

We were savouring the final mouthfuls when the Mains were brought. One can ask for a gap, today I hadn’t.

Two large Wholemeal Chapattis were presented, one would remain untouched. Way too large, we both had our fill with Bread.

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Daal Gosht

A mass of Yellow Split Lentils sat in what appeared to be a pureed, Oily Shorva, the Daal. I counted only five pieces of Lamb, one of which was huge. Two Sucky Bones would be revealed.

Scooping some of the Daal and almost-pulped Lentils on to the Chapatti produced an astonishing result. The Yadgar Taste!

How do they achieve this? There is magic working in Yadgar’s kitchen. It’s not every day that this distinctive Flavour is so pronounced, it certainly was today. The Sucky Bones are an obvious source, however, it can also be present in the their Vegetable offerings. The Spice Level impressed, the Seasoning also, a seriously Tasty Curry.

Whatever mental trigger had been pulled when Clive sent me his Spicy Lentil Soup recipe, was being sated by this Daal. This was all about the Lentils, yet there was Meat to be tackled. Giving of Flavour, a bit chewy at times, that it was – Lamb – felt fully justified. The comparatively minimal Meat to Masala content was well judged.

Chicken Keema Aloo Mutter

Yes, this had it all: Chicken Mince, Potatoes and Peas. With a suitably minimal residue at the base of the bowl, exemplary Keema. How many Soupy ones have we seen of late? Sometimes, Marg is beaten by quantity, today she passed the point of no return. Once the Bread was abandoned, she scoffed the lot. Mince, Potatoes and Peas, her favourite meal, who needs Bread? Unless it’s Mother’s Pride.

Perfectly cooked potato (yes, Marg had previously mentioned that ill-fated day of the Bullet Potatoes) mixed well with the flavoursome Keema. A very enjoyable dish, with little need for bread. I enjoyed the fresh salad.

Shkoor had arrived in the middle of our meal. In time we were able to chat. I informed him that his biggest competition – Karahi Palace – is, in effect, no more. That the staff had gone, and taken the recipe for their distinctive Karahi Lamb with them, is reason to mourn. Shkoor, correctly pointed out, that even with the recipe, that would not guarantee its recreation. He referred to – painting by numbers – else we could all be artists. It also takes a skilled hand to create wonderful Karahi Gosht.

The Bill

£20.00 A shared Pakora, no fizzy drinks, honourable. I can return soon.

The Aftermath

Simple farewells and expressions of appreciation.

If all goes to plan, next Monday will be different.

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Glasgow – Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen – Indian Curry!

After the second division Bangladeshi Curry had in Carlisle at the start of the week, a Punjabi Curry in Glasgow today was kind of obvious. There was little motivation for crossing the river this afternoon. The humidity was noticeable, thunderstorms were promised, heavy downpours throughout the day. Not that the hordes of the semi-clad wee girls, as The Urban Voltaire might have remarked, were taking notice. Their music festival at Glasgow Green was going ahead regardless, why not dress for the beach?

Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen (186 West Regent St, Glasgow, G2 4RU) was today’s chosen venue. The Hector needed something with intense Flavour after the word – bland – appeared in these pages last time out. Even Hector’s home-cooked effort yesterday had way more Flavour than the Curry served at Shaha Tandoori.

Arriving at Bombaywalla at 13.35, an Indian couple were coming up the stairs, luggage being hauled behind. A solitary Indian diner sat at the window table. In time two more chaps would arrive, plus another solo diner, all Indian.

The young waitress brought the menu. As expected, prices have increased since my first visits here last year. Still no sign of Sijjin who was Mein Host in the early visits. My request for a jug of tap water resulted in a glass being provided. I asked for a jug again, success. It’s quite a climb from the low level platforms at Charing X all the way up to Blythswood Square. Humidity.

In April 2022, Lamb Kolhapuri was £9.95, today £12.95. I suppose they have to protect themselves against inflation, which empirically, I have observed is running at 20% in Curry Houses. Assuming a wetter Curry than my Punjabi norm, Masala Rice (£3.25) would accompany. My two fellow diners ordered Dosa. These I don’t get, a Crepe which appears to be mostly fresh air.

In my most recent visit to Bombaywalla I have enjoyed the challenge that is the Lamb Sukka (£13.50). The Malabar Porotta (£2.95) is the ideal accompaniment for this Curry. Ideally two, but that is quite an investment. I was therefore pleased to spot a meal deal: The Bombay Malayalee (£17.95) – Lamb Sukka and two Malabar Porotta. Bring it on!

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After an appropriate wait, the waitress brought the food. There was no need to send for The Guinness chaps. The Masala Rice contained fried Cumin Seeds, a simple addition, and already potentially more Flavour than Monday’s Mainstream Curry.

Lamb Kolhapuri

A mass of Coconut sat atop the brown Masala and protruding Lamb. I counted nine pieces of Meat as I decanted, all were a decent size. The Masala intrigued. Last time, this Curry was quite – Soupy. Today’s Masala was delightfully Thick, and having covered the Meat, there was not an excess remaining. Care would have to be taken if all the Rice was to be eaten.

There was a big – kick. The Seasoning was acceptable, and this is not a cop out. Last year the Hector was most certainly challenged when the Seasoning here was almost out of hand.

The Tenderest of Lamb, and giving of Flavour, real Curry. The level of Smokiness was recorded as slight last time, today this did not register. Yet, Flavour was plentiful, the presence of Whole Spices being no doubt contributing. Peppercorns and a Bay Leaf were unearthed.

Simply Meat and Masala, something I try to avoid, a Vegetable here would not have gone amiss. A pity the excellent Mixed Vegetables Biryani is £10.50.

Chef came through from the kitchen, he smiled in recognition, his photo having been posted the first time I had this Curry.

Having envisaged a wetter Curry at the outset, I was quite surprised to find myself noting this Kolhapuri as certainly being – Dry. A South Indian Dry Curry, where in Scotland does one find a Chettinad which fits this description?

The Bill

£16.20 The jug of tap water kept this within budget.

The Aftermath

I asked after Sijjin. The waitress told me he now works, well, that’s his business.

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Hector Cooks: Chicken Desi Korma, Again – Recipe : Letz cook on Reels

Oh to be able to replicate the Spicy Desi Korma as served at Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin) and in Glasgow’s very own Karahi Palace and The Village. Ten days ago I tried, the results – dubious. It was Curryspondent Bill who sent me the – Letz cook on Reels – link. Bill insists that my substituting the Yoghurt with Creme Fraiche, cost me the required – Citrus – Flavour which is a prominent feature of this Curry.

Then there was the mysterious – Magic Beans. The Caddupah Almonds aka Charoli Seeds, finally arrived. We also agreed that despite the measurements in the video clearly showing tablespoons, teaspoons of the Powdered Spices was way more logical.

It does seem to take a while to assemble all the ingredients and create first The Curd Mixture then The Barista Paste. Sir Andy Murray was still British when I started cooking. By the time I ate, he was well Scottish.

Ingredients:

500g Chicken on-the-bone (thighs are best)

The Curd Mixture:

200g Curd / Yoghurt

1.5 tsp Coriander

1 tsp Salt

1.5 tsp Red Chilli Powder

1.5 tsp Kashmiri Chilli Powder

*

The Barista Paste:

100ml Vegetable Oil

2 Medium Onions

1 tbsp Ghee

8 Cashew Nuts

1 tbsp Caddupah Almonds (Charoli Seeds)

1 tsp Coconut Powder

The Masala:

2 Bay Leaves

2 Black Cardamoms

4 Green Cardamoms

6 Black Peppercorns

5 Cloves

5cm Cinnamon Bark

1 tbsp Cumin Powder

2 tsp Ginger-Garlic Paste

1 tsp Garam Masala

Salt

Four Green Chillies

4cm piece of Ginger cut into strips

1 tbsp Rose Water

Method

1) Pour the Curd/Yoghurt into a bowl, stir in the remaining ingredients of the Curd Mixture to create a paste, set aside.

2) Creating the Barista Paste is in two parts, firstly heat the Oil and fry the Onions for ten minutes until they turn golden brown.

3) Remove the Onions from the Oil, set both aside.

4) Melt the Ghee, fry the Cashew Nuts, Charoli Seeds and Coconut until the nuts start to pop.

5) Add the Nut-Coconut mix to the Onions, blend, to create the Barista Paste, set aside. (Take care, everything here is going to be hot!)

6) To prepare the Masala in which the Chicken will be cooked – reheat the retained Barista Oil.

7) Add and stir in the Bay Leaves, Black Cardamoms, Green Cardamoms, Black Peppercorns, Cloves, Cinnamon Bark, Cumin Powder.

8) Fry for two to three minutes.

9) Add the Ginger-Garlic Paste, fry for three to four minutes.

10) Add the Curd Mixture, stir on low-medium heat for 8-10 minutes, the Oil will separate when the mixture is cooked.

11) Add the Chicken, coat with the Masala.

12) Add the Garam Masala, mix through, then add Salt to taste.

13) Slice then add the Green Chillies and Ginger Strips, cook with lid on, medium flame, 10 to 12 minutes.

14) Add the Barista Paste, stir in, mix well with Masala, cook for another ten minutes.

15) Add the reserved Onions, sprinkling of Coriander and Rose Water, mix well.

16) Cook for a further ten minutes, serve.

Having added the Chicken, it was clear the Masala would burn if I kept strictly to the Recipe. I had to add 100ml of Water to keep the Masala alive. To accompany, a simple Basmati with fried Mushrooms, token Diversity.

Despite not having tasted anything until the point of serving, the Seasoning was spot on. What else would one expect in a Hector Curry. The Ginger came across powerfully, the Powdery Texture and overt Nuttiness had gone compared to version #1. Teaspoons as measures were therefore vindicated.

The Whole Spices added so much, the Peppercorns and Cloves stood out. Why do we buy Powdered Spice, grinding one’s own Turmeric may be a challenge, but it does not feature here. With four Green Chillies and the teaspoons of Chilli, the Spice Level was not demanding.

There was a distinct depth of Flavour coming from this Masala, the Magic Beans? Maybe I’ll be adding freshly ground Charoli Seeds to future Curry creations. I did add Lemon Juice to the Rice, from here was the only sense of Citrus.

Whatever this Recipe was trying to achieve, it fell way short that which I hoped to recreate. Bill, I need a better Recipe.

Finally, the Chicken. Apart from being a solid and Meat, it added absolutely nothing. Vegetables would have been just as good, in fact better! Look how – White – the Chicken is. Is it any wonder at Nando’s, one helps oneself to an extra bottle of Sauce?

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Carlisle – Shaha Tandoori – Mainstream Curry

Carlisle, where else would one go for a city break? A trip without Greco-Roman ruins is hardly worthwhile, a phrase that the Hector may adopt with increasing regularity in the future.

Monday night choices are restricted for Curry in Carlisle. The majority of venues that popped up in searches are actually Takeaway only.

Shaha Tandoori (89 Botchergate, Carlisle CA1 1RS England) an Indian and Bangladeshi Restaurant, is not what the Hector usually seeks. If such Mainstream venues are not tried, once in a while, then the positives extolled re – Hector’s Recommended Venues – lose their efficacy.

Somehow we walked past Shaha Tandoori. Roadworks and the Polish Deli across the street meant our eyes were elsewhere. It was 17.45 when we climbed the stairs to the restaurant, a young couple were the only other diners. Having finished their meal, they departed with an additional £38.00 Takeaway, respect. This proves that some hold the fayre at Shaha Tandoori in high regard.

Two mature chaps were on duty, one taking Orders, the other serving the food. We took our time studying the menu.

It was Marg who first spotted Shatkhora Lamb (£12.70). The Hector, however, would claim this Curry. With Methi and the promise of Lemon, powerful Flavours were hoped for.

Marg settled for Hyderabadi Lamb (£12.70), nothing offensive was listed in the description, though Onions were mentioned twice. Marg has a knack of overdosing on Onion.

At £1.80 for a single Chapatti, really, a Plain Naan (£3.00) had to be the better option. A Vegetable Pilau (£3.90) also to share, should be enough food. I verified that Capsicum would not be included in any part of our Order. Two 330ml bottles of Sparkling water (£1.90) and we were set.

The Shatkhora had a single Chilli rating. I asked for Spicy. Madras – was agreed. I am always amused when one Spice scale is translated to the other.

Poppadoms (£1.00) were suggested by our waiter, I’d advise first time readers, Hector does not play this game.

We settled down for the wait. With many booths, there’s lots of private seating areas. The four diners were of course sat at window tables overlooking the main street. With tablecloths aplenty, Shaha Tandoori was markedly different from Hector’s preferred Desi Curry Cafes.

The other chap brought our food at 18.04. Perhaps I should contact Guinness and suggest this as a world record? One assumes Chef had but stirred – The Big Pot.

The Naan was served in four pieces, each glistening with butter, hopefully not – Garlic. Two quarters each, such was the overall size, we would have no problem in finishing this Naan. With risen blisters, light and fluffy, definitely moreish.

The Vegetable Pilau was also on the small side, enough to share, just. With Peas, Carrots, Onions, Sweetcorn, Potato and Cauliflower, this was as hoped, a mini Biryani.

Shatkhora Lamb

Big slices of Onion plus pieces of Lemon Rind stood out in the pureed Masala. I counted ten small pieces of Meat as I arranged my Curry over the Rice. Was the Lemon Rind an edible part of the Dish?

An – OK kick – was noted, along with a markedly low level of Seasoning. As a direct consequence, the hoped for intensity of Flavour was not forthcoming. The Lamb had nothing to offer other than its own meatiness. Unlike yesterday’s authentic Aloo Gosht at Darbar Grill (Glasgow), it’s hard to believe the Meat and Masala were anything but strangers.

Unlike the pickled Lime one encounters in an Achari, the Lemon Rind did not feel as if eating it would do me any favours. Instead of Bones, a small pile of discarded Rind accumulated on the edge of the plate.

The Lemon Flavour, where was it? There was no Citrus blast. The Methi? No flecks of Herb were visible in the Masala, perhaps yellow Fenugreek Seeds had been employed?

Without the Diversity created by the accompaniments, this would have been a particularly dull Curry. At the start, the mind was considering a midnight Kebap. At the conclusion, the appetite had been sated, of course we had finished the Naan which in itself is a rarity.

Hyderabadi Lamb

A Tarka topped the same pureed Masala as above. Chef must be proud of his Big Pot. The extra fried Onions and the missing Lemon Rind appeared to be the major difference between the two Dishes. There was no need for the Hector to have his customary Soupçon. Marg’s verdict:

A smooth and thin sauce with cooked onions and fried onions on top. The meat was bland, but I enjoyed the fluffy, Naan and Vegetable Rice.

Marg and her unintended, but regular choosing of Onion-laden Curry. And she used the – bland – word, ooh err.

Everything, bar the Lemon Rind was eaten, clean plates. It was Curry, classic Mainstream Curry, still better than the ubiquitous burgers and pizza available everywhere else.

The Bill

£36.10  Pricey given the volume of food presented.

The Aftermath

I saw you take lots of photos – remarked the chap who had taken our Order.

The Calling Card was presented, I had to explain it was more than a social medium:

I have a website.

We have one too.

And so they do, but not a lot is given away. I don’t know if any of the named persons served us today. I went on to locate the review of the last Curry had in Carlisle, back in 2015. On reading this again, the consistency is remarkable. Much of what was written about Masala Bazaar is applicable for today’s Curry experience.

The Menu

 

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Glasgow – Darbar Grill – The Best Laid Plans …

A Sunday Curry, in Glasgow, quite a rarity. When Marg announced a post Hockey BBQ, the Hector was let loose. There was a rumour that Howard might be retiring, again, and so a Southside Curry fitted the bill.

Darbar Grill (140 Allison Street, Glasgow G42 8RP) was the chosen venue, mother shop of Karahi Palace (New-co #2). I was keen to see Ahmed, Moiz’s father, and see what more information I could glean. Arriving at 14.15, Ahmed was sitting front of shop, resting his eyes. As he popped on his glasses to greet, so another familiar face emerged from the kitchen.

You’re not meant be here! I came to see your dad.

Behold Moiz and his assistant who served me yesterday at the aforementioned venue.

Aloo Gosht with Plain Rice was the Curry for today. Ahmed disappeared into the kitchen leaving Moiz and Hector to chat. For the record, Karahi Gosht was declined.  I cannot quote prices.  The prices on display are for Takeaway.  I have not seen a recent sit-in menu.

Karahi Palace was closed today, don’t start me. Darbar Grill was set to close at 17.00. This evening, all the staff were going out for dinner as part of Eid. So where do the owners of a Curry House go for dinner in Glasgow?

Italian was mooted, Pizza was mentioned, again, don’t start me – Italian Pizza? Moiz admitted that they cannot go for – Curry – as they would only find fault. I did suggest Akbar’s. Bradford Curry would be markedly different from what is served here.

Aloo Gosht

Shorva is the traditional style of Masala for this Lamb and Potato Curry. I decanted the seven pieces of Lamb on-the-bone, and two wedges of Potato. Portions at Darbar Grill tend not to be huge, but I believe one can – go large. Pay more, have more. I retained half of the Shorva, in this way the Rice absorbed the first half, and I had a backup for the end game.

The – kick – took me a bit by surprise, far from being OTT, but certainly – Spicy. Initially, the Seasoning felt below the Hector idyll. As I ate on, this no longer registered as an issue. The second batch of Shorva may well have upped the level of Seasoning.

Earthy, Desi Flavours, it’s good just to eat a straightforward – Curry – once in a while. Having sat in the Shorva, the Meat was certainly giving of Flavour. The Potato simply thrilled. The way in which Potato can absorb that much Flavour makes this the obvious – Interesting Vegetable – to add to a Curry.

The quantity of Rice beat me, maybe I had more food than I realised?

Knowing that Moiz reads these pages, I’ll remind him of his offer to retain a portion of Spicy, Desi Korma, the next time it is prepared. I’ll happily accept – Chicken – if that’s what comes.

The Bill

£5.00   I had to inversely-haggle with Ahmed who was keen to stand me this Curry. The 50% discount was the compromise.

The Aftermath

Back out into the rain, an officially retired Howard was waiting in his Sunday spot.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace (New-co #2) – Bespoke Karahi – The Big Test

Project Karahi Palace (New-co #2) (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) continues, today – The Big Test. Moiz, Mein Host, had previously assured the Hector that a Lamb Lahori Karahi (£12.00) could be cooked to given specifications: extra Methi, extra Salt. Additionally, Mags was invited to give a critique on her favourite Curry – Aloo Gosht (£11.00), assuming it was available.

The 14.00 rendezvous was put back fifteen minutes due to overhead wires being down somewhere between Singer and Larkhall. That no other train on the Queen Street or Glasgow Central low level lines was affected makes me challenge the efficacy of this – excuse. There was also an enforced detour at Bridge Street due to the imminent arrival of a parade. July in the West of Scotland.

Today, Moiz had a black Chef’s tunic covering his posh garb. He is taking his new role seriously. Moiz clocked the t-shirt. We were therefore both suitably attired, down to business. My Bespoke Karahi was ordered. Dry, Minimal Sauce was also agreed, a true Desi Karahi was the objective. There was not a lot on display. I enquired about Aloo Gosht – can do.

You have a challenge – I informed him. Mags has stated over many years that the Aloo Gosht as served at Karahi Palace is/was the best served – anywhere. The New-co #2 therefore had a lot to live up to. Mags and Hector would be pulling no punches.

Sat at our customary table, the Bread was ordered. Mags went for a Tawa Chapatti (£1.00), Hector would test the Naan – Coriander Naan (£2.50). This was a favourable price for the Naan given the posted prices for compound Toppings.

Moiz brought the bottle of chilled Tap Water, plates and cutlery. Mags picked up on the new level of service. We waited for Chef, a chap I didn’t recognize, to produce the goods. There was a new lady on duty also, she appeared from upstairs. Hopefully, Moiz will get the upstairs seating area up and running, people should be encouraged to use this space. Meanwhile, a stream of people who were lining the route of the march were being caught short. Some did the decent thing and bought drinks, food even. One chap ordered Vegetable Pakora, there was none. A bit of an oversight here? He settled for the mixed Kebab, his fellow traveller ordered a Naan. Conversation ensued, the mixed Kebab was highly praised.

A hidden gem – remarked the first chap. Spooky. A week ago, another chap sat in the same spot and made the same comment.

Moiz and his assistant brought the fayre. The wholesome Chapatti was obscured by the ample Naan. Served whole, but with perforations, the Bread had only partly risen. Why do this, we’re not in Manchester? Let’s have totally risen and puffy Naan! Still, there were the beginnings of burnt blisters. Soft and light, with plenty of Coriander, this was a decent Naan.

A somewhat tired looking Modest Salad with Raita made a late arrival.  This was hardly touched.

Lamb Lahori Karahi – Desi style – with Hector’s Tweaks

Topped with sliced Bullet Chillies, Ginger Strips and a threat of fresh Coriander, this was a veritable Dry Karahi. The portion size was visibly smaller than was served here previously. However, the Meat count did reach double figures, just. Taking the bone count into consideration, this Karahi would certainly be manageable. As ever, the Naan would be abandoned at the appropriate moment.

The Methi blast was a positive start. The Seasoning was pitched a la Hector. The Lamb was decidedly soft, Tender. Meat pulp was evident in the Minimal Masala. There was a serious depth of Flavour, a vast improvement over Visit #1 a couple of weeks back. Served in the black karahi, it was as if the Flavours of the wonder that was the Karahi Gosht served on these premises, were oozing from the metal. Osmosis? (thanks, Howard!)

Better? – asked Moiz when he had the opperchancity.

This is Karahi!

Indeed, this was a Karahi Gosht worthy of the name above the door.

In terms of striving towards perfection, it certainly was – Dry – as asked for, maybe a bit more Masala. Working together, we can make New-co #2 a notable venue.

Aloo Gosht

With the same Toppings, this Curry looked like a wetter version of my Karahi. I would also speculate that this was the first time that an Aloo Gosht has ever been served in a karahi on these premises. Curry has usually commanded a bowl. What ever happened to the ceramic pots that were used in my earliest visits to Karahi Palace?

The abundant Masala was way thicker than the Shorva which is a traditional feature of this Curry. Over the years at Karahi Palace, Mags has had Aloo Gosht with a Masala at every level of thickness. One takes what comes.

Mags was making positive comments from the start. She did, however, make the mandatory lady diner comment about the Spice Level. Marg, Mags, Maggie, are they winding up the Hector?

Mags was somewhat miffed that her verdict was not sought by the staff.

First Aloo Gosht in the new (-co #2), not the same. However, it has Mags’ seal of approval.

(What’s this referring to oneself in the third person?)

The lamb was tender, falling off the bone. Great spicing, with a chilli-ginger kick.

I will be having this again.

Two contented customers: we’re on our way to happiness.

The Bill

£23.50 This was less than I had calculated. Moiz said last time that some prices would come down. A Tenner for each Curry, cheers!

Do you want to pay more? – asked Moiz.

The Aftermath

Thumbs up as we departed. The end of the march had just walked past. Distraction. Moiz’s assistant said he liked the tunes.

How come one can play these tunes and sing one’s choice of words in a march, but not at Ibrox?

Posted in [Handi By Darbar] | Comments Off on Glasgow – Karahi Palace (New-co #2) – Bespoke Karahi – The Big Test

Hector Cooks: Chicken Desi Korma – Recipe : Letz cook on Reels

Desi Korma, not the common Mild, Creamy and Coconut-rich – Korma – which appears on every Curry menu, has long been a favourite Hector Curry. For many years, this was Hector’s go-for Curry at The Village and latterly Karahi Palace (Glasgow) but is now only known to be available in its full blown and authentic form at Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin)! Twelve years ago, on that ill-fated day when the Israeli Potatoes refused to cook, Hector served up an interpretation of Lamb Desi Korma, the recipe was posted. On Saturday, Curryspondent Bill sent a link for a Chicken Korma – Letz cook on Reels – which he assured me was a Desi Korma.

New ingredients were required. Rose Water I have never used, Curry Bill assured me it works with Chicken, not Lamb. Nuts? It took a while to establish that Caddupah Almonds are better known as Charoli Seeds. These were ordered, but have not arrived in time. Instead, I have used Almonds. There was no Curd in the fridge, as if there would be, I have used Creme Fraiche instead. Not risking Lamb, I have stuck to Chicken as per the recipe, however, a kilo was to hand and so everything listed below was doubled. Tablespoons? So the recipe states, way more than I would ever add, but hey-ho, let’s see if this ends up OTT.

The omission of Lemon Juice, Tomatoes, Turmeric and Cumin Seeds puzzles. It is the Citrus Flavour which, for me, makes this Curry stand out above the Mainstream. Apart from these, the inclusion of the Nuts are the differences from my own interpretation.

Whilst I have acknowledged a few of these video Curry lessons previously, I have again transcribed the method and ingredients. The videos all move along too quickly, constant pausing is frustrating. I still believe it is easier to follow an illustrated text, here we go.

The ingredients, arranged on the worktop, appear daunting. As is revealed, there are three sections, preparation of the Barista Paste being the laborious part.

Ingredients:

500g Chicken on-the-bone (thighs are best)

The Curd Mixture:

200g Curd / Yoghurt

1.5 tbsp Coriander

1 tsp Salt

1.5 tbsp Red Chilli Powder

1.5 tbsp Kashmiri Chilli Powder

The Barista Paste:

100ml Vegetable Oil

2 Medium Onions

1 tbsp Ghee

8-10 Cashew Nuts

1 tbsp Caddupah Almonds (Charoli Seeds)

1 tbsp Coconut Powder

The Masala:

2 Bay Leaves

2 Black Cardamoms

4 Green Cardamoms

6 Black Peppercorns

5 Cloves

5cm Cinnamon Bark

1 tbsp Cumin Powder

2 tbsp Ginger-Garlic Paste

1 tbsp Garam Masala

Salt

Four Green Chillies

4cm piece of Ginger cut into strips

1 tbsp Rose Water

Method

1) Pour the Curd/Yoghurt into a bowl, stir in the remaining ingredients of the Curd Mixture to create a paste, set aside.

2) Creating the Barista Paste is in two parts, firstly heat the Oil and fry the Onions for ten minutes until they turn golden brown.

3) Remove the Onions from the Oil, separate some Onions for later, set both aside, retain the Barista Oil.

4) Melt the Ghee, fry the Cashew Nuts, Charoli Seeds and Coconut until the nuts start to pop.

5) Add the Nut-Coconut mix to the Onions, use a blender to create the Barista Paste, set aside. (Take care, everything here is going to be hot!)

6) To prepare the Masala in which the Chicken will be cooked – reheat the retained Barista Oil.

7) Add and stir in the Bay Leaves, Black Cardamoms, Green Cardamoms, Black Peppercorns, Cloves, Cinnamon Bark, Cumin Powder.

8) Fry for two to three minutes.

9) Add the Ginger-Garlic Paste, fry for three to four minutes.

10) Add the Curd Mixture, stir on low-medium heat for 8-10 minutes, the Oil will separate when the mixture is cooked.

11) Add the Chicken, coat with the Masala.

12) Add the Garam Masala, mix through, then add Salt to taste.

*

*

13) Slice then add the Green Chillies and Ginger Strips, cook with lid on, medium heat, 10 to 12 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning on the base of the pot.

14) Add the Barista Paste, stir in, mix well with Masala, cook for another ten minutes, stir as necessary.

15) Add the reserved Onions, sprinkling of Coriander and Rose Water, mix well.

16) Cook for a further ten minutes, serve.

Thus the – Desi Korma – was created. It may appear laborious, try transcribing! If one enjoys experimental cooking, then have a go, your outcome should be different from mine.

On tasting before serving, the Masala was way too thick and grainy-powdery. I could have poured in more Rose Water. The Nuts were dominant, OK, the Almonds were an overdose. I already had Ground Almonds and so could have saved a step. By cooking the kilo, I had planned to set the remainder aside then add Lemon Juice for the next sitting. In a moment of pique, I poured in about 50ml of Lemon Juice and cooked on for a few more minutes. The Texture returned to a smoother Masala, and hopefully an edible Curry.

Having Mushrooms which required using, the Curry was served on Mushroom Pilau.

Edible, yes, outstanding, no. More importantly, it tasted nothing like what I have come to recognise as a Desi Korma. My experiences as cited above, are markedly different. But then, I always have Lamb Desi Korma, and always – on-the-bone. Once again I believe I have proved that Chicken in a Curry is spurious. The Chicken added nothing to this meal.

The Cloves stood out after the Nuttiness was dismissed. A lot of powdered Spice had gone into this creation, I double checked, yes, tablespoons. Maybe teaspoons would have sufficed. Despite the quantity of Chillies and powdered Chilli, the Spice Level was surprisingly acceptable. I reined in the Salt, who puts Salt on Nuts? The abundant Cardamom was a nuisance whilst eating. The Garam Masala was of my own blending and so it should not be a surprise when it is reported that overall, this tasted like a Hector Curry, with Nuts!

Marg said she would try it on her return from up north, there may be an update.

Posted in Hector's Cooking | 2 Comments