Glasgow – Glassy Central – The Pedigree is Evident

Free of domestic duties, Hector was able to fill in one of the few blanks in the coverage of Curry Houses in Glasgow. As reported previously, it was Dr. Stan who spotted Glassy Central (285 Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow G2 3HQ) as we walked past a few weeks back. With no shop frontage, Glassy Central is easy to miss, a la The India Club (Westminster) visited last week. That they have suspended lunchtime opening, scheduling a review here was going to be difficult, how often does Hector have Curry of an evening? But hey-ho, today was that day.

Arriving at 17.30, that I was going to a basement venue surprised. Having looked into the darkness previously, I thought Glassy Central was an upstairs venue. So what was here before? The cordon, at the doorway during opening times, hopefully does attract some attention, in addition to the now illuminated signage.

What a pukka place, it’s amazing how mirrors can create the sense of vastness. The booths along the far wall allow flexibility in seating. Central tables separate these from the long bar.

Having looked online at the time of discovery, I found reference to Glassy Central being – Scotland’s first Desi Pub. Bar & Grill – is also how they promote themselves. Do people really go to Indian Restaurants for drinks? In Europe this is commonplace, something new for Glasgow. Adjacent to my table were taps pouring – cocktails – the far end of the bar had various lager taps including one Bier from CzechiaPravha (Staropramen). Also on tap, Aspall Cider, now we’re talking. Hector ordered a bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.00).

Mein Host brought the menu, a mature chap, I wondered if our paths had crossed before.  A three course meal (£11.95) was also on offer.

I already knew what I was here for, – Desi – was one attraction, also – Lamb on-the-bone – such a rarity in restaurant Curry. Chef’s Special Lamb on the bone (£8.95) was ordered with Special Rice (£2.95) accompanying. I had to ask what Vegetables were with the Rice – Peas, Carrots... – just to ensure that no Peppers would be served. There was no discussion about Spice Level for the Curry, but then – amateurus eateris – would hardly order this.

The price of main courses in this city centre restaurant is certainly a plus. Of course, I hadn’t seen the portion size, or the price of cocktails etc. £7.50 for the other Lamb Dishes makes a mockery of the Merchant City. £1.00 here for a Chapatti is honourable, realistic. I note their Karahi features the dreaded Capsicum, maybe on a future visit, this can be discussed and withheld. The Takeaway Menu I picked up at the door does not feature Lamb Karahi or the Lamb on-the-bone, one can ask, unlike…

Two young acquaintances were in München last week. On my recommendation they went to Indian Mango, the source of the finest Fish Chettinad ever encountered. It wasn’t on the lunchtime menu – was relayed back. It’s not on any menu! Ask! Any establishment which cannot cook to order is suspect, hence my general avoidance of chains who may have robots in their kitchens.

A couple, clearly known to Mein Host, were sat in the adjacent booth. It was only then I realised that there were mirrors at (sitting) head height. I was losing my bearings, more customers arrived but from where? I had no idea where the route to the stairs lay. Note to Hector, on leaving, do not walk into the kitchen. Sparkling Water.

The Curry was brought first, what a mound of Meat and Masala. Brimming. The Special Rice looked modest in comparison. Peas and Carrots were there along with Green Beans, two types. Proper Vegetables, not the abomination which Dr. Stan ordered at the aforementioned – The India Club.

I arranged the Rice on the plate, this was not for sharing, a sensible portion for one.

Chef’s Special – Lamb on the bone

Topped with Coriander and sliced Green Chillies, a – kick – was anticipated. On placing my spoon in the Masala, the peripheral Oil spilled on to the table, well that was that taken care of. The next dig hit rock bottom. Commensurate with the mass of mirrors, the actual Curry pot was the same size as the Rice. There was a stand beneath with place for a candle, no candle.

I counted the Meat as I decanted, the magic eight, including three large bones shrouded in Lamb. Maybe as per – The India Club – three portions between two could be a consideration, but if one had a Starter then this would be more than enough.

The Masala was Thick, already the pedigree for this Curry was evident. The Meat to Masala ratio was appropriate, no – Soup – here.

This Curry was a slow starter. A decent Spice Level was hindered by moderate Seasoning. Hector likes his Chefs to be – brave. The quality of the Meat was a standout, this was as Tender as Lamb can be. I do congratulate Chef for presenting Lamb this soft without it turning to pulp.

Slowly, and as slowly as I was eating to savour this delight, the recognisable – Desi Flavour – which distinguishes a Curry from the Mainstream, emerged. Mein Host was across to tell me that Lamb on-the-bone will taste different from the norm. I assured him that I have had this oft in the Curry Cafes on Glasgow’s Southside.

Trying to isolate a particular Spice was proving to be impossible, a fine Garam Masala then? The root Flavour was familiar, but not in one’s face, no – Wow! – ah, the Seasoning could have given so much more. Cardamom was my educated guess, with no whole Spices one cannot be sure.

Curry – is how this was described on the menu. Curry – is something I rarely order. This transformed to a Desi Karahi (no Capsicum) and the Hector could be in raptures.

I ate on, quality Curry, excellent Meat, the Vegetables were a suitable distraction, who wants just Meat & Masala? I was aware of an Oily residue on the base of the plate, but one cannot make a Curry of this quality without sufficient Oil/Ghee.

Every grain of Rice was eaten, the bones suitably gnawed then replaced back in the pot. I would definitely have this again.

The Bill

£14.90    In the city centre, a main course alone can cost this.

The Aftermath

Time for introductions, I went up to the bar to pay and gave the Calling Card.

How long have you been open, that Curry was not made by chance.

Six months.

Mein Host took my card over to the young lady who had recently arrived. This was Priya, daughter of Kinder who had served me. Priya recognised the Curry-Heute Calling Card! The father and daughter team had sold Times of Punjab (Renfrew) where Marg and Hector dined in 2021. Priya remembered Marg from our visit to Times of Punjab. Then I had an impressive Pan Fried Machi Desi Punjabi Masala. I see no Fish Curry in the Glassy Central menu. My thoughts on Prawn Curry are occasionally blogged, if the diner insists…

Kinder went out of his way to tell me that everything served here is fresh, even the Pakora which typically is double fried, and even bought in at some venues.

Before Times of Punjab, and this is going back a while, they had Diva (Dalmuir) which I note, on one visit, did not have – The Clydebank Curry Taste.

I had to ask about lunchtime opening being suspended. It’s all to do with Chef’s hours. Hopefully, once Glassy Central is better established, this shall return. Note Hector prefers to eat at 15.00.

Priya and Kinder clearly know the business, however, basement premises must be difficult. Hopefully Curry-Heute can do its bit to inform the masses. I shall certainly return, with Marg, of an evening.

And as for the couple who sat near me? They were regulars at Times of Punjab.

Renfrew, not the easiest town to get to/from. When will the bridge to Clydebank be completed?

2023 Menu

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Glasgow – Ambala Pakistani Cuisine – In Search of Fish Curry

Last night, an advert for Fish Curry at Ambala Pakistani Cuisine (11 Forth St., Glasgow, Scotland, G41 2SP) popped up on a certain social medium. I verified that it would be available this afternoon. Today was sorted.

I arrived at Ambala at 14.10 and was shown to a window table. A few tables were occupied, families. On showing the downloaded graphic, the young waiter shook his head, he knew nothing of this, not on the menu.

*

We do Fish smaller than that – he informed me.

With Fish planted in the mind, the Hector was not for backing down. Fish Karahi (£12.99) would have to be, accompanied by a Coriander Naan (£3.50). This Naan is not on the menu and is charged at the same rate as the Garlic Naan.

For the record, prices have not increased since my last visit in November. Only one visit to Ambala in 2022? Poor show, Hector.

The bottle of chilled Tap Water was savoured, no taste of bleach here. It is possible that this may have been a seasonal feature in Glasgow’s water supply.

After an appropriate wait, the food arrived. The Naan was quartered, well fired, puffy at the edges, thinner towards the middle. This was a decent Naan, more on this below.

Fish Karahi

The plate was different, no karahi. The traditional Toppings were present, Coriander and Ginger Strips. What was Fish, what was Masala, I’ve been here before. Fish Karahi has been hit and miss at Ambala over the years. In September 2021, I ended up not paying having sent the Curry back to have the excessive Oil removed.

Today, there was peripheral Oil, seemingly not to excess. The Fish had been, mostly flaked, only three discrete pieces would be observed, the rest a mash of Fish and Masala. In style, this was close to that enjoyed at Kashmir (Bradford), a positive.

Slices of both Red and Green Bullet Chillies had been cooked in, it was no surprise therefore when the – kick – registered. More importantly, I was delighted to taste thus confirm, that the Seasoning had been well pitched. As a consequence, this Fish Karahi tasted! – Fishy!

Initially, I found the Karahi to be moist and wondered if a Vegetable Rice / Biryani might have been the better accompaniment. At the halfway stage of eating the actual Curry, I had eaten more than half of the Naan, time to review my progress.

The remaining Karahi showed less moisture than had been the case at the start. Bread was therefore demonstrated as being appropriate. A Chapatti would have lacked girth, a Paratha too crispy (as typically served here); the Coriander Naan proved to be the ideal accompaniment.

I ate on. The Fish Flavour, coupled with the root Flavours of the Masala, were creating an ideal combination, exactly what the Hector seeks. The Fish was soft and showed no sign of tending towards – rubbery. I would have to identify this Fish, another possibly to add to – Hector’s Guide to Fish in Curry.

Some of the Ginger Strips, now sitting at the base of the plate, had partially cooked. The change in Texture and burst of Flavour added more. The Coriander from both the Naan and the Topping was adding another dimension in Flavour. With three quarters of the Naan eaten, it was time to stop.

Only one Naan? – the waiter had asked at the point of ordering.

No excessive Oil, an acceptable level of moistness that maintained, a variety of Flavours, the Fish playing its role to the full, this was a good day to be at Ambala.

The Bill

£16.49     With plenty of Fish present, good value.

The Aftermath

I asked the chap who took the payment what the Fish was. He sought help, the manager came to the rescue. Bangus (Milkfish) was identified.

On realising that he had not seen me for some time, my lack of visits to Ambala was mentioned. I should be here more often. I congratulated him on the Fish Karahi.

In the course of the day, I contacted Zaheer, Mein Host, directly to enquire about the Fish Curry I had come for.

This one is no good for you because there is bones in it – I was informed.

I can do bones.

How and when I shall experience the advertised Fish Curry remains unresolved. Over to Zaheer.

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Westminster – The India Club at Hotel Strand Continental – Not their best day…

Having sampled Curry in Tooting over two days earlier in the week, it was back to – the city. Dr. Stan announced that he would join Hector, Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley for lunch at The India Club (Hotel Strand Continental, 143 Strand, London WC2R 1JA). Dr. Stan brought Mags down from Hackney, this was her first visit to the former staff canteen for the Indian Embassy.

We assembled punctually for our 12.30 rendezvous. Having led the way up the stairs, I advised the waiter that we were five. The first table on the right was allocated. There may have been space on the far side of the room, but not for long. It was busy at The India Club this Wednesday lunchtime. I counted twenty on arrival, many more came, a fair cross section of society. One has to know of this place, stumbling across The India Club is an unlikely event, especially with another Curry House a few doors down.

The menus were provided, no price increase since the last visit in October. Then, Clive and Hector established – three main courses to share between two – as the means of not leaving wanting more. London portions.

Clive and Hector were therefore sharing three portions of Bhuna Lamb – Chef Special (£13.00), Mags added another portion. Dr. Stan chose Saag Lamb (£13.00) then suggested that he and Mags share a Vegetable Curry (£7.50). Maggie went for Keema Peas (£12.00) Rice for five: three Pilau (£4.00), two Plain (£3.50). There is not much of a difference between the two. Maggie added Mango Chutney (£0.60) just in case her Curry was too Spicy.

The waiter managed to accommodate the request for two separate Bills. On asking that there be no Capsicum, he informed me that this would already be cooked in. The menu clearly states: cooked in spiced tomato and onion masala, garnished with capsicum. On all previous visits I have avoided the garnish. Cooked in Capsicum, a departure. I would take the risk.

A bottle of Tap Water was ordered, hardly enough for five. Securing a second proved difficult. Warm plates were brought in a matter of minutes, sadly these would be well cold by the time the food was served. We settled down for the wait. Dosa – appeared to be the choice of many. Although alcohol is served here, two ladies did arrive with their own bottle of wine.

13.00 came and went. The waiters taking the Orders appeared not to be able to bring out the food, there was a chap for this. Those who arrived later had theirs first. At 13.15, three portions of Bhuna Lamb were brought, we had ordered four.

These sat whilst we waited for Rice and the rest. There was always the promise of the remaining food arriving soon. Rice was being shared to get things underway. It took some ten minutes to assemble all, Chutney aside, which had to be summoned later. If the food had been hot, it was no longer. Hector is used to piping hot food.

Bhuna Lamb – Chef Special

The portions are visibly small, yet I did count the Meat into double figures as I arranged the Meat and Masala over the Rice. That there was another half portion coming my way was most certainly comforting, the Hector would be fed.

Cloves registered immediately, there was a rich, earthy Flavour emanating from the Masala. This was a function of the Seasoning which was well pitched, the Spice Level was no more than moderate. The Meat was beautifully Tender, Flavoursome, but lukewarm. Indian Curry, as cooked for Indians, quite distinctive, how Curry should taste, but it should not have been presented thus.

Some of the Masala was – cold. Sending the food back would only have created further delays.

Time to address the elephant in the room. Small pieces of Green Pepper had been cooked in. The size meant – not Ballast – but their presence would cause the inevitable. Indeed, for hours later they resurfaced. Why Capsicum?

The Bhuna at The India Club usually has a redness, with visible Tomatoes in the Masala, not so today. Today’s was a darker brown, fewer Tomatoes, and we all know why.

Did I enjoy my Curry? Well of course, but it could have been so much better. My fellow diners proved to be more forgiving. Clive:

Very tasty, very tender meat, just the right level of sauce to stop it becoming soupy.

Mags, who for once was not having Aloo Gosht:

Lamb really tender, lovely heat to the sauce, would recommend The India Club.

Saag Lamb

A fist appearance in these pages, this is how the Hector likes his Palak Gosht. The Spinach had been stirred into the Masala, presumably the same one used for the Bhuna.

Vegetable Curry

They must be joking!

Potato, Cauliflower, Green Beans, were conspicuous by their absence. Instead, there was a mix of Vegetables which looked as if they had been boiled to death: Courgette, Leek, Carrots, Peas and Onions sat in the most unappealing Shorva. Yadgar (Glasgow) this was not. This Vegetable Curry I had never seen before, and hope to never again.

Dr.Stan’s verdict:

I enjoyed that, very good. I do like Saag, tender meat.

The Veg Curry was a bit spicier.

Mags:

Veg Curry a bit thin.

A bit?

Maggie had been left with little choice but to assist Clive with some of his Bhuna, such was the length of time the Keema took to arrive.

Keema Peas

One cannot help but be amused. If ever Peas had been added on rather than cooked in, then this was it. The Keema did look superb, however, authentically – Dry, no visible Oil, no needless Masala.

Maggie did report this to be more Spicy than the Bhuna then remembered her Chutney, which hadn’t arrived.

Marvellous, the Keema was tasty, was expecting it to be drier, hence the mango sauce. Right size of portion for me (she’s learning), on the warm side.

I assumed the latter referred to Spice, not temperature.

It took a while to obtain the necessaries, yes the waiters were busy, but the division of labour was questionable.

The Bill

£104.10   There is a reason why we paid in this manner.

The Aftermath

There was no opportunity for engagement. We made our way downstairs, more customers were still arriving.

Curry-Heute is all about the Fayre, décor is incidental, and service rarely rates a mention. Service not included – there was a tip, this was hardly deserved.

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Tooting – Lahore Spices – Your Darn Tooting

Day two of – The  London Trip – and once again Lord Clive was happy to accompany Hector on the quest for quality Curry in SW17. A busy Lahore Spices (111-113 Upper Tooting Rd., Wandsworth, London S17 7TJ England), was passed yesterday on the trek between Tooting Broadway and Tooting Bec. Today, we alighted at Tooting Bec in the knowledge that Lahore Spices was nearer – the top end.

We entered at 12.35, the first customers of the day, so a different experience compared to Sunday lunch down the road at Lahore Karahi. The waiter led us towards a window table, I stopped short and chose one mid room.

We remained the only diners until around 13.00 when two chaps came in armed with bottles of wine. Wine with Curry, what a waste. Tap water for us.

Lahore Spices serves traditional Punjabi/Lahori Fayre, not that Hector is likely to ever order Paya (£8.95) or Haleem (£8.95). No Burgers or Pizza are served here, serious food only, well apart from that for – Young Guests.

Karahi Lamb Special ½kg (£17.95) almost tempted. That the standard Karahi Lamb was only £8.95 was also considered, cheap for London. I ran through the menu for Clive, he settled for Keema Mutter (£8.95) plus his usual Keema Naan (£4.25). Lamb Korma (Pakistani Style) (£9.25) caught Hector’s attention. A Desi Korma? I have only ever encountered this in Glasgow at The Village and Karahi Palace. This has long been Hector’s favourite Curry, i.e. when not having Karahi Gosht. A Chilli Naan (£2.25) would accompany.

On relaying the Order to the waiter, I firstly had to establish that the Lamb Korma was not of the the common – Coconut laden – variety. I then asked for Desi, Apna, the lot. Spicy was certainly noted.

A Modest Salad was brought to the table. This featured three slices of Tomato, Clive was not missing out. I found the Onions to be potent.

Lahore Spices is a good sized premises, spacious, well lit with contemporary décor. A display counter runs down one side of the room, the kitchen lies to the rear.

*

During the wait I went up to the counter to photograph the prepared Dishes. Hector was in his element, a worthy Curry Cafe and the prices amazed. If Lahore Spices can sell Chapatti and Naan at £1.00, why can’t everyone?

Both Breads were well fired and in time, would turn crispy. The Chilli Naan, served in two pieces, also featured Coriander, a bonus for Hector. There were sufficient burnt blisters and the puffiness ticked another box. I would eat all but a scrap.

The Keema Naan was quartered. There was no sign of – pink – Mince inside. A meal in itself, Clive would only manage three quarters.

Lamb Korma (Pakistani Style)

Large pieces of Meat protruded from the rich Masala. The Oil was already collecting on the surface of the Masala, a residue would maintain. Green Chillies, which had been no more than halved, were a feature, – Spicy – had been taken seriously. By eating directly from the karahi, there would be no Meat count, yet this was clearly a decent portion. Indistinguishable from my usual Karahi, this looked worthy of a Hector.

There was big Peppery blast which surprised given the redness of the Masala. The Seasoning was spot on, the crucial element which defines a Curry.

Most of the Meat was wonderfully Tender, more chewing was required for a couple of the larger pieces. The Meat was giving off so much Flavour, and with each mouthful, a Spicy blast. With Chillies in the karahi and in the Naan, this was not for the faint of heart. Tears, a runny nose and a sweaty scalp confirmed that if one accepts the – Vindaloo – scale of Spice, this was beyond that.

Importantly, there was Flavour, maybe not as intense as I have been enjoying at Karahi Palace (Glasgow) in recent months, but this was truly – in the style – a Curry to savour, a Curry to remember. I congratulate Chef.

Keema Mutter

One could not but help notice the abundant Peas. This was an authentic Dry Keema, there was no trace of Oil visible. The quantity impressed, around the halfway stage, it became even more apparent that this was a large portion.

In the last couple of years, Clive has been boasting about his home-cooked Keema Mutter. Then he tried the recipe posted in Curry-Heute and upped his further. His first statement today:

I wish I could make it like this.

Clive would repeat this at the end of his meal, then added:

Very good, very spicy, temperature very hot, I had to wait for it to cool down.

We were two satisfied customers in Tooting this Monday lunchtime.

The Bill

£24.70    I asked the waiter to split the Bill, he charged us half each – doh!

The Aftermath

I had spotted a chap who could have been Mein Host, alas he was not in sight as we departed. I gave the Calling Card to one of the waiters. Apart from acknowledging this, there was no further discourse.

Hours later the Citrus was breaking through. With fewer Chillies, this may have been manifested sooner.

2023 Menu

 

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Tooting – Lahore Karahi – A Warm Welcome in Wandsworth

Dr. Bernard stated on December 31st last year – Your blog is not complete without reference to SW17. Today, Lord Clive of Crawley accompanied Hector on a first ever visit to Tooting, a popular front for Curry in the Borough of Wandsworth. South of Tooting Broadway tube station lie five Curry outlets; heading northwards towards Tooting Bec, a mere twelve more. (see the foot of this post) Where to start?

The very beginning – allegedly, is – a very good place to start. Lahore Karahi (1Tooting High Street, Wandsworth, London SW17 0SN England) appeared to fit the bill. Actually having studied the online menus for quite a few venues, this would have been my first choice, regardless of Lahore Karahi being the first venue encountered.

Note, all venues appear to open at noon, daily, making Tooting a candidate for Curry Heaven. We could smell the wonderful aroma of – Spice – as soon as we exited Tooting Broadway. 12.30 may be early for Hector to be out for Curry, especially on a Sunday, however, having taken an early flight to Gatwick this morning, there was certainly an appetite.

Lahore Karahi, established 1995, was stowed. A cross section of society was represented here, perhaps with an Asian bias. Approaching the counter, where many Dishes were on display, the chap who greeted passed us on to another for seating. An empty table for six was adjusted creating a table for two. Strangely, a sole diner who followed had the table for four. We had limited space. This was the classic Curry Cafe which the Hector seeks, people here for the food, not elaborate décor.

The Menu was provided, I quickly read it through to Clive, his customary Mutton Dhansak (£11.95) would be passed up, he would follow my lead. Meat Karahi (£11.95) it had to be. There was no mention of – on-the-bone – that I could see on the menu. Perhaps the Lamb Charsi Karahi (£14.95/£21.95) would be served – authentically. Note, Hector was also eschewing Fish Masala Karahi (£11.95) in favour of – Lamb.

A return visit was already being formulated, and this was just Tooting Curry #1.

A Butter Naan (£1.50) and a Keema Naan (£4.95) completed the Order. No way was Clive not having his Keema Naan.

A jug of Tap Water was eventually secured, despite the local geology, no nasty tastes here.

I had to bide my time to get any photos of the room. Observing the Fayre being presented, all were having the food of the Indian Subcontinent. Unlike comparable establishments in Glasgow, Burgers and Pizza are not on the menu. How would my Glasgow Brothers cope?

I watched people eat methodically with their –  right hand. Hector is ambidextrous, forked food with the right, Bread etc. conveyed with the left. No formalities here, hopefully.

There’s a BYOB policy in operation, £2.00 per person, which certainly favours Bier, unlike their namesake in Aberdoom where there is a comparable charge per bottle. The seemingly large number of staff, on both sides of the counter, were kept busy. The wait was commensurate with the food being properly prepared, and the number of people dining.

The Butter Naan proved to be the perfect Naan. Risen, puffy, burnt blisters and served whole, I would eat the lot, just. The Keema Naan was an eye opener, were these – spirals – a la Paratha? Again served whole, this well-fired Bread was seemingly packed with Mince. I wasn’t for ripping Clive’s Bread apart to fully inspect the Keema, however, it did appear to be properly cooked, no sign of the pink – Donner-like – stuff here. Good Bread.

Meat Karahi

Ginger Strips, and sliced Bullet Chillies had been stirred in at the point of serving. A threat of Coriander topped the mass of Meat and Masala, no microscopic London portions here. Initially I noted the Meat as cut – small – but reviewed this as I made progress. The Texture would vary accordingly, the smallest pieces being super-Tender, the larger requiring more chewing. Well, one would hope so.

The Seasoning was noted as – low – at the outset, the Spice as – OK. As further sliced Chillies were encountered so – OK – was revised upwards, and some. Importantly, the meat was giving a big blast of Spice on every bite. So few venues achieve this. Slivers of Tomato were visible in so authentic Masala. I couldn’t tell if this was Tomato/Onion based, or both.

With no Clove or Cinnamon to the fore, the Hector was trying to pinpoint what made this Masala so recognisable, Cumin, perhaps. Umami! – had to be declared, there was a definite sense of – Savoury Meatiness – and more, from the Meat.

One always hopes for something – magnificent – something that really grabs the palate, this was not to be, no – Wow! – today. I have to make clear: this Karahi bore no resemblance to the continually disappointing nonsense served up in Mainstream Curry Houses across this land, and many more. Authentic Lahori/Punjabi Fayre is what the Hector craves, and here it was.

This Meat Karahi was enjoyable, lacking the full depth of Flavour I seek, perhaps down to the Seasoning, or lack thereof. Other mortals would have added – Salt – the Hector must not. Also, no bones, their presence makes a significant difference. Clive could hardly contain himself:

Absolutely smack full of flavour, not sure at the start, then ten seconds later, it hit you. Not the tenderest meat I’ve eve had, but still OK.

Is it possible that the Keema Naan had enhanced the overall Seasoning and correspondingly, Clive’s experience?

The Calling Card had to be presented, the waiters were too busy to engage. In the meantime, I had spotted the chap who had to be – Mein Host, I would approach him later.

On asking for – The Bill – it was Rizwan, Mein Host, who came over with the card machine.

I see you didn’t like the food – he remarked.

That’s my line when the plates are wiped clean.

Introductions were made and the Calling Card presented, yes, I had just flown down from Glasgow this morning to have Curry in Tooting.

A Curry Blog! – Good to have you.

The Bill

£30.25 – spontaneously reduced to £20.35.

Such gestures are always appreciated but not always accepted. Given the number of diners, I doubt that Rizwan will be struggling any time soon.

The Aftermath

Rizwan’s photo was captured, then I felt I could take the photos above  of the ready Dishes.

I would certainly return to Lahore Karahi, and expect to pay in full, the aforementioned two Dishes are up my street. With sixteen more Tooting Curry Houses to investigate, more trips to – that – London are required.

Power to the Hector!

2023 Menu

The trek to Tooting Bec…

Dawat, across from Lahore Karahi, opens at 08.00, whereas next door Saravana Bhava opens at 10.00, both remain open all day thereafter.

Hyderabadi Zaiqa and Al Mirage open at noon.

Watan opens at 12.00.

Lahore Spices opens daily at noon, Spice Village similarly, on Fridays at 14.00.

Kolam – South Indian Restaurant, opens at 18.00. Chatkara opens daily at 11.00 and is the only restaurant on this stretch staying open after midnight.

Both Namak Mandi and Royal Mahal open daily at 12.00, (14.00) on Fridays.

 

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Glasgow – Sheerin Palace – Kofta Anda Day

Hector let loose in Glasgow on a Wednesday? That can only mean one thing, Kofta Anda at Sheerin Palace (300 Allison St, Govanhill/Crosshill, Glasgow, G42 8HQ).

The notion – took me to The Village on Monday for Kofta Palak, there was the realisation that today it could be interesting to attempt some sort of comparison.

Arriving it 14.45, five big chaps in their twenties stood in a line on my side of the counter. The scene was like something out of a Tarantino movie, what was about to unfold? Mein Host was on the phone, was he calling for assistance? I parked my coat on a chair in the dining area such that I could observe all. Two Takeaway orders were assembled, they paid, cash only, at Sheerin Palace, all was well.

The tray with Kofta Anda was on display under the glass counter, for once I resisted the Aloo Gobi. Mein Host took the Order: Kofta Anda, one Chapatti, one Meat Samosa. I returned to my seat, at other tables the debris from two previous diners was in situ, and would remain so. There is no ceremony here, there’s no menu or prices on display either, WYSIWYG. Things are different in Govanhill, double parking along Garturk Street is also OK. MOT central.

A chap brought a Chapatti from the kitchen, he looked around, as there was no-one else, he placed it in front of me. Large, Wholemeal, well fired in parts, this would do the job, albeit, there would be the inevitable splashes. One cannot have Rice with Kofta Anda.

Mein Host came through and addressed me in Urdu. I would like to think that I am well known in these parts, this was a first. Meat – Samosa was reconfirmed at the second attempt, in English.

Kofta Anda

Four Meatballs, only four? The Village served five and they may have been larger. Ah, but … here was the hard boiled Egg, the Anda. The Shorva looked to be its usual inviting self. This is Visit #20, Curryspondent Reybans put me in my place in early visits, Shorva is what this dish is all about. One needs a spoon.

The first intake of Shorva caught the back of the throat,  Spice, Seasoning and Soupy, authentic Shorva. Desi Man! I cut the Meatballs up into smaller pieces, not necessary, but who wants this to stop in four bites? These Kofta had the required level of Seasoning, and seemed more – Meaty, one up to Sheerin Palace, Monday’s at The Village were somewhat lacking. The Meatballs here were better by far, however, The Village had the intensity of a Palak-rich Masala accompanying, so here the comparison has to end.

Why the Egg is such a crucial part puzzled for years. Maybe the hard yolk soaks up some of the Shorva? The Diversity of Texture? Whatever, it works. Kofta Anda at Sheerin Palace is always a treat. (available Wednesday & Saturday)

Samosa

At first I thought there were two, something to do with the fold in the pastry. Hot, greasy, the Samosa was packed presumably with Lamb Mince, plus surprisingly large pieces of Potato. Had it arrived first, I would have enjoyed my first ever Samosa at Sheerin Palace, but I had Shorva. Dipping the contents of the Samosa in the Shorva added even more Flavour, excellent.

Accompanying the Samosa was a Salad/Garnish. Two wee bits of Tomato, the last Tomato in Glasgow? Actually the grocers on Allison Street have loads, £3.00 a kilo, watch the prices in the supermarkets rise, and rise. For the record, there is no shortage of Tomatoes in the EU. Thank you, Boris, once again. Can’t wait for my next hour long queue at a European airport passport control.

I watched Mein Host decant the remaining contents of the tray of Kofta Anda into Takeaway containers.

The Bill

£8.00   Govanhill prices.

Mein Host had his coat on and was leaving as I approached the counter to pay. The amount was relayed to his replacement whom I recognised, and vice versa, but not from here.

The Aftermath

At 15.30 there were three portions of Kofta Anda left and lots of Tomatoes in Allison Street.

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Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – A Late Lunch

Marg, already on the Southside, declared herself free for Curry-Heute. Such was the level of enthusiasm, Marg had secured a table at The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA) and was waiting for my arrival at 15.00. Only two other tables were occupied, soon we would have the place to ourselves. A new daytime manager was on duty this afternoon.

The lunch menu had been brought to the table despite the fact that it expired at 14.30. Marg was having the two course Lahore (£7.95) deal with an extra 50p for Lamb Curry. Vegetable Pakora would be the Starter. Instead of taking the Chapatti (two) option, I persuaded Marg to have the Naan. Hector was ordering from the main menu. Spinach was calling once again: Kofta Palak (£11.95), a Curry which guarantees an intensity of Flavour.

The waiter (manager) was taken aback when I ordered Kofta Palak without having consulted the main menu. He recognised that I must be a regular, and one who knows his Curry. I didn’t introduce myself.

There was no sign of Mr. Baig, Mein Host this afternoon, though Kasif’s big brother who works in the kitchen, did acknowledge me when he passed by.

Vegetable Pakora

Three large pieces, double fried, were accompanied by a Dip and a modest Salad. No Tomatoes, of course, we’ll see how high the price goes in the coming weeks. We had to make do with Cucumber, Onion, and the dreaded Green Pepper.

Hector was permitted one of three, and so can report with confidence: Spicy, Tasty, and the Dip upped the experience. One does not eat enough Vegetable Pakora, who can then justify a Main Course?

The Naan arrived cut into four pieces, well almost cut through. Folded, Marg wondered if there would be enough to share. Once opened, the Naan proved to be substantial. With a thin centre and risen, puffy, soft edges, we both had the our preferred parts.

*

Lamb Curry

I didn’t, but I could almost taste that blended Masala. Marg did a Meat count, important when having the Lunch Menu. Six was the total, though a couple of pieces were toty.

One assumes the distinctive Village Taste was present. Marg wasn’t saying much as she took care of her Lamb Curry other than:

This is a good portion for me.

However, I know that Marg eats all that is set before her.

Kofta Palak

The food was – Hot! A quiet Village is when it is at its best. Busy, or dining in large numbers, and one’s meal can be left to sit and cool. This was straight from the hob.

Five medium-sized Kofta sat in the dark, Herb-rich Masala. Each Meatball was halved in order to make the Meat to Masala ratio appear more favourable. The Masala was wonderfully rich in Flavour. One assumes there was more than just Spinach in there. Yadgar declare five Herbs in their Saag/Palak. The Seasoning was on the button in the Masala, but on biting into the first Kofta, distinctly lacking. Eating directly from the karahi with a spoon, the plan was to have the Masala with the Naan and eat the Meatballs separately. However, without the Masala, the Kofta were not giving all they should. This meant I ate less Bread.

Once sorted, the Curry was much to my liking. Spinach, Hector has his notions, one wonders what triggers this one?

A large group entered as we finished, we timed it well. 15.00, the optimum time to eat.

The Bill

£20.40  Still great value.

The Aftermath

Across the street lies a takeaway coffee shop – Mulkanwan. Marg has been keen to sample their Coffee. A pleasant chap, Mein Host confirmed that of the thousands meant to be working at Barclay’s Folly, the majority still work from home. Predictable.

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Hector Cooks – Namkeen Karahi – Fish Karahi – Have Curry Will Travel

Craig and Lesley’s invitation for dinner in Helensburgh, with Hector cooking of course, has effectively been in place, for years. We all know why it has taken so long to fix the date. Usually when one receives a dinner invitation, the host cooks. However, Hector feeding Carnoustie is well documented in these pages. At least tonight was dinner for four, not eight plus.

The venue was Burnbrae, where, in the early years of Curry-Heute, Hector taught the school leavers how to make Curry. It was Craig and Lesley who ran – Life After Lomond – and they took part. In the spirit of giving one more Curry lesson, it was agreed that I would – teach – the making of a Tomato-based Fish Karahi in situ and bring a prepared Lamb Curry.

I have been keen to make a Namkeen Karahi for some time. Having studied many recipes online, some contain neither Tomato or Onions. As I was faced with preparing a Tomato-based Masala later, I decided to go with Onions. House of Sher was visited on Wednesday, a kilo and a half of Lamb was purchased along with frozen Tilapia, and other fresh Herbs & Spices. Today was a long day of cooking.

Namkeen Karahi, basically, nothing – red – goes in. Salt and Pepper, various, are the key ingredients, Sources include Cumin Seeds and Poppy Seeds, I went with these. Both finger Chillies and Bullet Chillies would add a further – kick.

Being a special occasion, I opted for Ghee over Oil, the Lamb, on-the-bone, was browned in the melted Ghee then Ginger and Garlic Pastes were stirred through along with the Salt. Already, the Meat was releasing moisture.

The roughly cut huge Onion was added, and left to cook for a few minutes. Meanwhile, the Cumin Seeds and Black Peppercorns were ground simultaneously. This mix was then added along with White Pepper, Coarse Black Pepper and the Poppy Seeds. Nothing – red – hence the term – White Karahi.

Slow, patient, cooking is the key to success I have ascertained. What resembled a Lamb Stew at 14.00 had dramatically changed by 17.00. The quantity of moisture released took me by surprise, yet no liquid was added. Two hours on the lowest gas setting, stirring every twenty minutes or so, the lid on, and I was left with a wetter Curry than I hoped to present. The Chillies were stirred in, then some Yoghurt. Again, the inclusion of Yoghurt is debatable, being – white – this felt appropriate. Even with the lid off for the final hour, still on a low gas, the level of moisture was retained. However, all signs of the Onion had vanished other than the Masala having acquired a decent viscosity, This was not – Shorva.

Namkeen Karahi

After the full three hours of simmering it was time to taste.

Oh yes!

The Meat had already fallen off the bone whilst stirring. After three hours it was decidedly – melt in the mouth Tender. As for the Flavour, this was exactly what was desired at the outset. Peppery! – with a true depth of Flavour. The Spice Level was pitched well for the intended audience, Marg, at least, should love this.

The – Namkeen Karahi Recipe – is posted based on 1kg of Meat.  Proud as the Hector is of this creation, it comes with a caveat.

The Karahi was left to cool for an hour then decanted to a plastic tub for transportation. It was some three hours later when the Namkeen Karahi was placed on the hob for reheating. Had it been possible, I would be asking – who substituted this for my Curry?

Earlier I had made the decision not to force this into becoming a Dry Karahi, but the moisture had gone regardless. The lengthy reheating was doing no favours, the Karahi just became drier and drier such that it resembled a Saag/Palak.

Rather than add the Coriander as a garnish I decided to go for it, this was cooked in. Finally, I had to add Water, else all would have been burnt. What went on the plate bore no resemblance to what I had cooked this afternoon.  Perhaps this is another feature which differentiates – Karahi – from – Curry?


Whilst the Lamb was slowly cooking, the Spices were prepared for the Fish Karahi. Despite having made a Tomato-based Masala previously, the Spices not included stand out. Sources suggest Fish should not be left to marinade for too long, an hour being ideal. It was some three hours before cooking #2 was underway, the delay was due to the amount of time to have Naan delivered in Helensburgh.

Two work stations were set up, Marg was my assistant, Lesley would be on Craig’s team, a competition? Craig and Lesley had provided the Tomatoes, twenty four were asked for, only eighteen in total could be sourced in Helensburgh. Something is afoot, no Tomatoes in our supermarkets?

One assumes that when halving a Tomato, one cuts through the stem scar. For the purposes of removing the skin, it feels more logical to cut at right angles to the stem scar. Last time, the skins came off without having to turn over the Tomatoes, tonight not so. This took way longer than envisaged, meanwhile the reheating Namkeen Karahi was suffering.

The full – Fish Karahi Recipe – is posted, and so the few Spices went in once the Tomatoes had disintegrated to a pulp. In time, and with lots of stirring, the pulp became a rich Masala. The final touches: adding the Methi, Yoghurt, then cooking in the Coriander and Garam Masala. Thus the desired Masala was created. Laborious in terms of the removal of the Tomato skins and stirring, but with relatively few ingredients.

Marg was charged with cutting up the Tilapia. Her concept of – bite-size – was smaller than mine. The contents of Craig’s pot had a different hue, down to the shape of the pot and the lighting. It was agreed that we would test both, and so portions from each pot were arranged on the plate.

As it happens, both Fish Karahi tasted the same. Fish Karahi, Hector’s – Holy Grail – in terms of Curry. Around the table the noises were positive. The extent to which this was – politeness – can never be established. Lesley noted the Citrus, so the Marinade had worked.

Fish Karahi

A chunkier Fish would have made the experience even grander, Tilapia seemed a bit thin. All but a Soupçon of the Fish Karahi in both pots remained at the end of the meal. This was meant to be a – Side – to the main event, the Namkeen Karahi.

Foreground: Namkeen Karahi – Background: Fish Karahi

Marg declared the Namkeen Karahi to be – Peppery. Again, positive comments, however, the Hector was less than impressed. Adding Water should never have been required. Cooking in the Coriander had felt the way ahead.. This was simply not the wonderful Karahi I had cooked earlier. This was – decent – in no way outstanding. Cook and serve immediately – the lesson learned.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – Friday Night Curry

Hector out on a Friday night, so pre-retirement. Alan suggested Curry night for the chaps only, and the venue: Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ). Who am I to disagree?

Approaching Karahi Palace at 20.00, the disco lights were flashing upstairs, a wedding reception, soon to reach its conclusion. I took my preferred place in the ground floor seating area. Ayaz, Mein Host, was in the cooking spot, a new chap was front of house serving, possibly brought in especially for the evening. We had timed it well, an hour earlier, who knows how long we could have waited. The down side, we never saw the Fayre that went upstairs.

Alan was having Hector’s usual Order – Karahi Lamb – (£12.00) in the preferred style: extra Salt, extra Methi, with a Chapatti (£1.00). Having had this six days ago, it was time for Hector to have the great alternative: Lamb Korma Spicy (£10.00) with Mushroom Rice (£5.00). Whilst the new guy wrote down the Order, I was communicating to Ayaz that we wanted – the full Bhuna.

Spicy – was therefore added to the mix.

Coffee, served in paper cups, was the only foodstuff I saw go upstairs. In time, the weans stopped running around, all was quiet on the Tradeston Front. A Modest Salad and Raita were brought to the table. The presence of Cucumber in both meant Alan was not having these. In the end, both remained untouched. When the jug of Tap Water arrived, Alan mentioned – bleach. Somebody reads Curry-Heute. As noted on Saturday, this appears to have subsided.

Karahi Lamb

Topped with the customary Ginger Strips and Coriander, the Karahi was ever so hot. Allan watched the sizzling, and realised he would have to wait for partial cooling, else he would have done himself damage. The Chapatti was served halved. We studied it then agreed it could have been made from a mixture of Wholemeal and White Flour.

Having described this Curry a hundred times, it’s good to have another person’s take on it. Alan will always count the bones, tonight he had fewer then me. His first ever Karahi here was described as – a bag of bones. Not so tonight, but Alan reckons the overall portion size has shrunk, well the Meat content. He took up Ayaz’ offer of a second Chapatti, however, only a fraction of this was required. The – half Chapatti – has to be invented.

That was very tasty – was the spontaneous comment as he wiped the karahi clean.

Lovely, very spicy, less meat in the portion.

This is compared to his last visit here which was pre-Lockdown. How has he denied himself the pleasure for so long? In this period, we had discussed sharing the kilo, alas, Hector is not yet ready for this challenge with only two diners.

Lamb Korma Spicy

Served in a bowl, without Toppings, because this is Curry, not Karahi. Alan noted the more – Soupy – nature of the Dish also, hence the need for Rice. The Masala was dark, menacingly so. I decanted the solids and some Masala, leaving the remainder for the end game.

Mushroom Rice

Twice the price of the standard Rice Dishes, the quantity is commensurate. I had already declared that half was going home. This is a effectively a Biryani, the Mushrooms offering Diversity. The Spices in the Rice complement the Curry, this has become a tried and tested combination.

Cloves! – registered immediately, and aggressively so. The Spice Level was distinctly high, the Seasoning spot on, for Hector. Apart from Clove, the depth of Flavour here was stunning. I awaited the possible – Citrus – not tonight. I asked Alan if he had been to Kabana (Manchester), not yet. This Spicy Korma was comparable to their so-called Karahi. The Texture of the Lamb took me back to Kabana, and this is a major compliment. Two – Sucky Bones – it was all happening on Hector’s plate.

Spicy? The Spice Level seemed to grow. On biting into a Peppercorn, I studied the Masala, none. On digging through the remaining Rice, – aha!

Ayaz had certainly pulled out all of the stops, most certainly the – Fiercest Curry – I have ever been served at Karahi Palace.

*

The Bill

£31.00    There is evidently an extra charge for – Bespoke Curry.

The Aftermath

Ayaz was beaming, then laughed aloud – Spicy!

I ate it – was the response.

Anyone can add Chillies and up the Spice Level, to do so and retain this depth of Flavour, takes special skill.

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Glasgow – Yadgar – Fresh & Simple

An alternative favourite meal at Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) has evolved. This features two Starters and one Curry, the latter being Vegetables. In September, Hector went – a Chapli too far. Sold at £3.50 for a pair, today, one would suffice, on the assumption that Fish Pakora (£5.00) was available.

Arriving at 15.00, Naveed was behind the counter.

Fish Pakora? This was confirmed.

One Chapli, something Vegetable.

Potatoes, Carrots and Peas (£5.00), just made.

One Chapatti?

No Chapatti (£0.70).

Such is the diversity of this Order, Bread is not required, though it has taken time to establish that. I took a seat at the smallest table, other diners were in situ. Today, the heated window seats were initially unoccupied, it’s warm for February.

Shkoor, Mein Host, arrived, always welcoming, and surprised when I have not made contact in advance to order kilos(s) of Goshat Karahi (£30.00). It is some time since Hector had the full Yadgar experience. I assured Shkoor that the chaps from Paisley are keen to come for a feast (and fill the coffers). For the record, Chapatti John was here last week and had a kilo of boneless Karahi, sneaky.

A Complimentary Salad, featuring sliced, Pickled Chillies and copious Onions was presented along with the customary two Dips. Today, the Chilli Sauce was not heated, too warm outside? I accepted the can of Mango Rubicon (£1.00) which Naveed brought out. All was set.

*

Fish Pakora

A plateful of Fish in Spicy Batter, Haddock is the norm at Yadgar. Freshly made, always a treat. I asked Naveed if this is always available. For years it was brought on a Complimentary basis, but sporadically. Apparently it’s always available, but only after the Oil has been heated. So not immediately after opening time then.

Five large pieces of Fish, plus a tiddler, the largest portion of Fish served to Hector in some time. Why do restaurants not give this much in a Fish Curry? Best eaten straight from the kitchen, I have had this as a Takeaway, the impact is then lost. I decided to eat the Fish Pakora in two sessions. Firstly with the Chapli Kebab, then as the – meat – accompaniment for the Vegetable Curry. The overall quantity should have been manageable, especially without Bread, or so I thought.

Chapli Kebab

I’ve tried making these, but why bother when Yadgar do them so well? Chicken Mince is the base, yes, Hector does order Chicken at Yadgar. Spicy, tasty, I could eat them until the cows, or Chickens, come home. Limiting the Order to one showed self-restraint, I was determined to finish all I had ordered. Well, not the green bits in the Salad. Hector is a self-respecting – Weegie – after all.

There was a welcomed gap before the Aloo Gajar Mutter was brought, this meant the food on the table could be eaten whilst hot, apart from the Salad. It was delivery time. Having observed the – Pearl – Cooking Oil being brought into Karahi Palace on Saturday, today I can confirm that Yadgar use – KTC – as do Ambala. KTC is available in domestic quantities in supermarkets. I am not on commission.

Aloo Gajar Mutter

Potatoes, skins on, Carrots and Peas, topped with Ginger and Coriander, sat in a mushy Masala; this is a meal in itself, and a rewarding one. It never fails to amaze me that – The Yadgar Taste – associated with their Karahi, can be present here. As is written oft, I have speculated as to how this is achieved. Carrots – has been denied, well they would.

I took around half of the Vegetable Curry and set the remainder aside. I knew already that a – doggy bag – would be required.

The next time Naveed passed, the other half  was taken back to the kitchen.

The remaining Fish complemented the Potatoes, Peas and Carrots. The Potatoes had absorbed Flavour from the Minimal Masala, the slight Sweetness from the Carrots added another dimension. The Peas played their part, and not just as – Ballast. This is a favourite combination of Vegetables, but certainly not in European cooking. The Spice brings out so much more from these humble Vegetables.

Reminiscent of a scene from – Are You Being Served? – Mr. Anwar Sr. entered. He too stopped to greet. I had to ask how his kitchen maintains such consistency and high quality. Keeping things – fresh and simple – was the reply. I admitted that some of the (jars of) Spices in my cupboard are – old – in fact, I’ve forgotten what some of them are. He insisted that Dry Spices should not lose their Flavour. However, such is the turnover at Yadgar, they are hardly going to have – Old Spice!

I ate on, happy that I had sent half of the Aloo Gajar Mutter back for packing. I mopped up the Oily residue with the last morsels of Fish Pakora. I could have this meal every week, but as unfolds below, morally, I cannot. Anyway, as it’s the start of a new year, I’ll have to get back to the other delightful venues on Allison Street.

The Bill

Shkoor held up the card machine – £5.00.

I’m not paying that, add another three.

It should have been appreciably more, but Hector has long admitted to receiving special treatment, well I do promote Yadgar, often. That I only had – Vegetables – was again the justification. The card machine was presented once more:

£7.50

This is not how haggling is meant to work – I informed Shkoor.

(Though Marg thinks it does.)

The Aftermath

I told Shkoor where the – doggy bag – was bound and outlined – The Monday Club.

Retirement? I recommend it.

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