Içmeler – Taj Mahal – Bradford Curry in Türkiye?

Posted on May 19, 2022 by Hector
  • Given the size of Içmeler, we couldn’t help but pass Taj Mahal (Içmeler, Kenan Evren Biv. No:27, 48720 Marmaris/Mugla, Türkiye) on our first night. The chap out front was insistent that the big, bold claim on their menu was accurate. If I wasn’t convinced, I wouldn’t have to pay. He had just thrown down the goblet (sic). We promised to return, Masala would be checked out first.

There was the thought about visiting the Taj Mahal mother shop in Marmaris yesterday before a certain football match, alas, we were caught up in the atmosphere. For the record, my first Donner Kebap of the trip was last night.

We arrived at Taj Mahal after 18.00 and were recognised at once. In Içmeler the staff at every shop, bar, restaurant, gets to know the visitors quickly, such is the size of this tranquil annexe to Marmaris. We were led upstairs and given a table on the balcony, as were the next diners to arrive. Window dressing.

I started my spiel but then realised the Drinks waiter was not clued in. Being on holiday: a Tuborg (50TL) for Hector and a Soda (17.50TL) for Marg was permitted.

The actual waiter then got all barrels. I was making it clear that I know Bradford Curry, therefore their claims would be scrutinised. Three Dishes come under the Bradford banner: Lahori Tawa, Karahi and Kashmiri Balti, each 197.50TL in Lamb. The Karahi included the dreaded Capsicum in its description, best to avoid this. So, Lahori Tawa for Hector, and Kashmiri Balti for Marg. I made the point of asking for mine in the Asian Style, Desi, Apna, the lot. Marg held back.

To accompany, Pilav Rice (52.50TL) and a Fresh Nan Bread (24.50TL). Poppadoms were declined, however, we did order Sheek Kebab (80.00TL) to share as a Starter. How – Seekh – has become – Sheek – who knows, I’ll let others worry about the spelling of  – Kebap.

The Seekh Kebap was accompanied by three Dips. Finally, the real ones, no more Ketchup. Raita, Mango Chutney and Onion Chutney, the classics.

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Sheek Kebab

I wonder if there is an internationally agreed length for a Seekh Kebap? These were just like home. Chicken of course, the Seasoning hit the palate, then the Spice kicked in. This was the most Seasoned Meat I had been served in any Turkish Curry House to date. However, the Curry-Heute adage came into play: if the Starters are this good, the Mains tend not to be. The Seekh and Salad were devoured, excellent.

The place was filling up, a Thursday night. The tables inside could well have been reserved. All the customers I could hear were British. Every Masala that I spotted was brown, only the Tandoori Dishes had the unnatural – red. Hopes were certainly raised.

The food was assembled on the table. The Naan was hung, wonderful, it also saves space. A bit pale perhaps, that would be the only criticism. The blisters were in the process of forming when it had been removed from the flame. Not too doughy for Marg, a sufficient girth for Hector. A few Seeds were embedded. The best Bread had to date in a Turkish Curry House.

The Rice portion was decidedly small. Marg wouldn’t be having much, if my Tawa was up to scratch, it could be surplus to requirements anyway. There was a Clove or two in there, with some Tarka on top. Decent Rice.

Lahori Tawa – Lamb

Feast your eyes!

Imagine how the Hector felt when this was set on the table. The flat Tawa allowed the full glory of the Tomato-rich Masala to be appreciated. The Coriander Topping also had the mysterious Dry Herb look, was some of this Methi? Calm, Hector.

The Lamb was easily into double figures, the large pieces of cooked Tomato were therefore certainly more than – Ballast. Tiny pieces of Red and Green were strewn through the Masala. Capsicum possibly, however, the large Banana Peppers we have been eating in Turkey are the long, chunky ones, not Bell Peppers.

The photographic ritual took an unexpected turn, a chap came over and took ours … for use in another medium.

The all so important first dip of Naan into the Masala revealed a huge Spice hit, not in the sense of heat, but intensity of Flavour. Whilst the Istanbul Curry Houses impressed, this was full on, no prisoners being taken. The Seasoning was not noticeable per se, it must have been there, these Flavours could not have been achieved otherwise.

The Oil separated from the Masala, I stirred it back in, I was not going to miss anything here. The Meat was majestic, beautifully soft, and giving Flavour to the Curry, no parasitical late add-ons here.

The chap whom I took to be the Head Waiter was over to check:

We have taste – I assured him.

This was an authentic Punjabi-style Curry, that which Hector holds in the highest esteem. The Meat and Masala worked in harmony. The Tomatoes added Diversity. The Flavours were certainly distinctive, aggressive even, a treat in this far off land. However, Bradford? Not. For that one needs much more Methi/Fenugreek.

Kashmiri Balti – Lamb

Again, the same Coriander Topping, the Oil was already collecting around the edges of the karahi. The Balti was not as – red – as the flash photography suggests. The Masala oozed quality. One has come to recognise when a Masala is better than the Mainstream.

There appeared to be a smaller quantity of Curry compared to the Tawa, but these karahi are deceptive. Marg verified her Meat count into double figures as she decanted to accommodate some Rice.

A Soupçon of the Masala crossed the table. This had a much more mellow Flavour compared to the Tawa, it had to. I would happily have had this Curry.

Marg’s verdict:

A wonderful Curry, eaten at the right time of the day. Full of Flavour, with tender lamb, and a rich sauce mixed well with the Pilau Rice. I enjoyed the hanging Naan, and used it to scrape out the dish.

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*

Needless to say, we ate the lot apart from the top of the substantial Naan. Another – tick – for the Naan.

The Bill

619.50TL (£31.06)   Maybe a bit more than Bradford Curry prices.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was issued to the chap who dealt with the payment. We followed him downstairs to where Mein Host stood at his dais. Our enjoyment was expressed. He told of the owner, a Bradford Chef, who came over some twenty years ago.

Now to ask the big question:

Can you do me a Lamb Karahi without Peppers?

The answer was in the affirmative.

We’ll be back on Sunday.

(The day after another football match.)

2022 Menu

Posted in Taj Mahal | 2 Comments

Içmeler – Masala – Curry for Tourists

Posted on May 17, 2022 by Hector

Hector and Marg in a holiday resort? Not our usual style of trip, not unheard of, last year we went to Girvan. I am not a beach person, though accommodation with a pool, where one manages to actually swim a few strokes, is a welcome change.

Içmeler in May, an unattainable concept prior to this year. The resort is just reawakening up after two years of hell, not just Covid, but a major forest fire at the peak of last summer which disrupted the town’s infrastructure.

The weans are still at school, everywhere, only people of a certain age are here. Içmeler is set up for the British. English, even Scottish breakfasts, are on offer in many establishments. A well known brand of a Tamarind based brown sauce correspondingly features. Marg told me quite emphatically that I was not going out to join the breakfast brigade this morning, I suggested Curry instead.

There are two Curry Houses which keep popping up when researching Içmeler, Masala (Içmeler, Kenan Evren Blv., 48720 Marmaris/Mugla, Türkiye) appears to be the better rated. That Masala is open at noon every day, suited the Hector dining pattern. We arrived at 13.40, unsurprisingly, we would be the only customers.

The waiter brought the menu, the prices were significantly higher than those seen in the Istanbul Curry Houses visited last week, as in more than double. Tourist prices. Two types of Cuisine are available at Masala, Indian, and that other stuff from further east, as was borne out by the Complimentary Starter: Prawn Crackers and three Dips. Two of the Dips were suitably spiced, the third was cough medicine.

What to have? Karahi? After my two recent Istanbul Karahi experiences, time to return to the Mainstream. Bhuna Lamb (259.90TL) should provide a true and fair view of the Curry at Masala. Taking no chances re Soupiness, Rice would accompany. Vegetable Rice (44.90TL), diversity rules.

Marg took the Samosa (59.90TL) route once again, but only after she ascertained that the Salad shown in the photo in the menu was accurate. A Large Water (24.90TL) would complete the Order.

As ever, I asked that no Capsicum would appear in either my Curry or Vegetable Rice. The waiter was keen to establish a level of Spice. Above medium – was eventually noted, after a warning.

I watched sacks of Onions being brought in to the restaurant during our half hour wait for the Order to be prepared. If only I could justify buying these at home, the price per unit is a tiny fraction of what we pay for Onions in supermarkets.

The food arrived, both Marg and Hector’s together, as asked.

Samosa

The Salad was little more than leaves of Lettuce. What does one do with them?

The Samosae were Vegetable. Marg found both the colour of the interior and the corresponding Flavour intriguing. Turmeric – was her nominated Spice, how she knows what Turmeric on its own tastes like, well, maybe she does. The colouring did give this credence. Marg was unable to identify a particular Vegetable in the Mash.

Hard to tell which Veg, mushie. Best Samosa I’ve had in a while.

The Vegetable Rice was definitely a portion for one. On decanting to the plate, it just about looked enough. This is a far cry from Central Europe where Rice portions are ridiculously large. The British influence in Içmeler?

The Rice contained Mushrooms, presumably tinned, diced Carrots and the tiniest flecks of Broccoli.

Bhuna Lamb

Perched high on its stand, the Curry stood proudly, the Coriander topping pointing skywards. As I arranged the Meat on the Rice, so I counted to double figures, the pieces, however, were tending towards – small.

There was a sense of excessive – red – in the Masala. Round Seeds, too small to be Coriander, were mixed through the viscous, blended Masala. On further study, I noted the Masala as gelatinous, this was not the Texture one creates by blending Onions and Tomatoes alone. Was adding Cornstarch, Chef’s attempt at creating what he thought was a Bhuna Masala?

I began by sampling the Vegetable Rice, a pronounced Flavour came from this, a good start. Then the Meat and Masala, nothing. I ate on, waiting for the Flavour of the Bhuna to hit the palate, nothing.

The Spice did build to something I would describe as – below Medium. The Seasoning was non-existent, hence the total lack of Flavour. Unsurprisingly, the Meat and Masala were strangers on the plate, how long had they been in each other’s company?

*

These are moments of despair for Hector. I can only be true to myself and my readers, there was nothing happening here. Other Sources describe Masala as serving – authentic – Cuisine. What did they order? I felt my constructive criticism of the two Istanbul Curry Houses to be misplaced in comparison. Suddenly, the perceived lack of Seasoning at Nosh-E-Jaan was set aside, what lay before me today was not even on the Scale of Seasoning.

By the halfway point, I was convincing myself I could taste Tomato. The blend of Spice was making the palate aware that something – Curry-like – was being consumed. One forkful suddenly gave Flavour, Cardamom, yet I saw no evidence. Then I found a linear Seed, or was it a husk?

As I arranged the final pieces of Meat, Masala and Rice in the centre of the plate so I declared:

I’m getting something now.

Truly, what you see in the photo was the only part of this Bhuna Lamb to give Flavour. And to prove my love of Curry regardless, I ate every grain of Rice, every morsel of the Curry.

The Bill

350.73TL  (£17.87)   This was after a 10% discount for dining before 18.00.

The Aftermath

Mein Host asked, he had to be told.

I showed him photos of the Desi Curry enjoyed last week in the two Istanbul Curry Houses. Those were at the opposite end of the Curry spectrum.

Your Curry is for tourists.

I’ll tell Chef.

Menu extracts 2022

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Istanbul – Nosh-E-Jaan – Desi Curry in Türkiye

Posted on May 14, 2022 by Hector

Until yesterday, my research had not revealed Nosh-E-Jaan (Kamer Hatun, Kamer Hatun Cd. No: 5-A, 34435 Beyoglu/Istanbul, Türkiye). They advertise themselves as serving – Authentic Desi Cuisine – an expression used often in Curry-Heute, in fact that which Hector seeks above all.

Marg and Hector set off up the hill from Galata to Pera, in the direction of Taksim Square. Once again, another Curry House was found near our destination, this is how Istanbul works, it’s all functional linkages. If one wishes to purchase electrical fittings of any type, then the streets around our accommodation are where one comes. Glasgow, however, appears to have more Turkish Barbers than Istanbul, but then I’m hardly looking for them.

Arriving at Nosh-E-Jaan at 13.30, a group were sat near the doorway in the otherwise empty restaurant. Spartan – may describe the decor. I would come to regret choosing a seat adjacent to the TV, the soundbar in particular. Far too loud.

The menus were brought, all that I had found online held true, there was a choice of Mutton Karahi (65TL) or Beef Karahi (55TL). I would take advice. Marg was up for a Chicken Tikka Salad (30TL).

When the waiter came to take the Order, I told him I had only just established the existence of Nosh-E-Jaan. Once I had finished my spiel, he admitted his English was limited. He probably hadn’t understood a word. Let’s order.

The Salad was not available, Vegetable Samosa (25TL) became the fallback. It has been a while since Marg ordered Samosae. Using hand gestures, I asked which was recommended, the Mutton or the Beef. I was steered towards the Beef Karahi. A Butter Naan (15TL) and a – Water Big – (10TL) completed the Order.

People came and went, no more actual customers. The TV blared, a Turkish singer, nowhere near as good as the Erdem Ozkan Band we saw last night at Nardi’s Jazz Club (Galata).

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*

The Samosae arrived first.

Vegetable Samosa

Four small Samosae accompanied by Ketchup, and thankfully, Raita. What’s with the Ketchup in Istanbul Curry Houses?  Potato and Coriander were the fillings.

Very cute – was Marg’s first observation.

Indeed, they had a fine, golden hue and were gone in no time.

Very hot, a good spice level – Marg reported – an enjoyable dish. The Raita cools the mouth.

When Hector’s food arrived, there was a moment of both glee and disappointment. The Butter Naan was halved, not the end of the World. In what way was this a Naan? OK, it had risen ever so slightly, a few burnt blisters. It was far too thin, limp, I’ve had thicker Chapattis. Despite the negatives, Marg thought I might have to order another, it was that small. My 75p Naan was a disappointment, still, all was eaten.

A simple Salad of Cucumber and Onion was also brought to the table, Marg had most of this. I would take some Onion, just to add a bit of crunch to my Curry.

Beef Karahi

I immediately admired the pot, the garnish, the contents looked so appealing.

The pedigree of the Masala was self evident, it appeared to be Tomato-based. This was indeed Desi Cuisine. After yesterday’s strange experience at Karachi Darbar when I was unsure about what I was eating, this time, I decanted to the plate. I counted eight medium sized pieces of Meat. The pieces of – red – Vegetable mixed through the Masala had me concerned for a moment. Ah, Tomato, fine.

Big Spice, small seasoning, no chance of the – wow – today. The Meat was delightfully Soft, the Texture I admired greatly. It takes great skill to get Beef to this level of Tenderness and not let it turn to pulp. The Meat was excellent, I could have done with more. At these prices, let’s not complain. In terms of quantity, it was way more than The India Club (London) where I recommend sharing three portions between two. A Vegetable Side would have had me stuffed. I had considered ordering Aloo Matar (35TL) but was afraid of wasting food.

The limp Bread did not enhance the Curry. The depth of Flavour one looks for was not being revealed. Salt was on the table, not always the case. For those who permit themselves to add Salt, and thereby alter that which is presented, I would strongly suggest – add more Salt!

My mouth was on fire by the time I wiped the Masala residue from my plate. This Curry was good, but, one always hopes when visiting a new venue that something truly wonderful is going to be experienced. Not today. This does not mean that I did not enjoy what I ate, I just know it could have really hit the spot.

The Seasoning, or lack of, let the whole Curry down. Beef Stew – was almost going to be used as a description, too cruel. The Karahi, visually, had all the hallmarks of quality. This indeed was Desi Cuisine, remote from the blandness of the Mainstream.

The Bill

105.00TL (£5.55)    Yes, this is accurate.

The Aftermath

Our waiter had issues with the card reader. Another chap, with more English and a second machine, evidently – Mein Host – sorted things. He asked the customary question.

The Calling Card was given, the Curry-Heute Website shown on the twin SIM Oppo. On seeing the length of the list of venues visited, he was well pleased at being added.

My enjoyment was relayed, however, I made it clear that – more Salt – was definitely required. Could I remember the word which means – the Salt brings out all the other Flavours?  I would consult a well known and reliable Curry Blog later.

I did ask about the Masala. Tomato was confirmed, along with Onion and Garlic. No Ginger?

Of the two Istanbul Curry Houses visited, I would suggest that Nosh-E-Jaan has the greater potential to serve something that would make Hector go – Wow! Maybe I should have had the Mutton Karahi?

Later, standing in the abnormally lengthy queue to use the facilities at Ziba Bar, I was in conversation with a local. On the wall was a poster advertising a book. In the top right corner, there was another word which features oft in these pages – Umami!

I asked what it meant. He assured me it was not a Turkish word but had something to do with – taste. Indeed it has.  Meaty – was the interpretation when this term was first encountered, however, it has evolved. The taboo associated with Monosodium Glutamate, appears to have been dropped, this – Salt – is back.

If that was coincidence, then what were the chances that the four digit pin for my Turkish SIM is the reverse of the numbers required to enter our apartment?

Kara! – it’s all about getting the correct Salt balance.

2022 Menu extracts

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Istanbul – Karachi Darbar – A Standard is set for Curry in Türkiye

Posted on May 14, 2022 by Hector

Istanbul, a pan-continental city, another tick on the Bucket List. On day three of five, bearings established and key sights visited, it was time for some real food. Anyone can stick Meat under a grill, cooking requires a level of skill. Last night, Hector’s familiarity with the Greek menu was applied. The Turkish Dish with a familiar looking name, had to be the local equivalent of – Giuvetsu. Meat served sizzling hot in a sauce, proper food. Marg had Lamb Chops!

Today was Hector’s first ever Curry in Turkey, a country which has been visited sporadically since 1996. With an entire metropolis to choose from, it had to be the right venue. Karachi Darbar (Cihangir, Siraselviler Cd. No:31 D:A1, 34433 Beyoglu/Istanbul, Türkiye) was selected, a Pakistani Restaurant, of course.

Marg and Hector headed off from the accommodation near Galata Tower to Taksim Square. Having not passed a single Curry House on our previous days’ wanderings, here was a cluster.

I was surprised to find such a large venue given the average size of eateries around us, there’s even an upstairs. The ground floor rear area was quite empty when we arrived at 13.45. Within ten minutes all the downstairs tables were fully occupied. It’s Friday.

A young chap brought the menu. Marg was not ready for a large meal having had breakfast. The Mix Vegetable Pakora (50TL) would suffice. The Mutton and Beef section of the menu became Hector’s focal point.

It was good to see Mutton Haleem (115TL) even though I would be giving it a wide berth. Beef Nihari (125TL)? I have only ever see in it served in Lamb, so no big bone then.

Mutton Karahi (115TL) mentioned – Spices, Tomatoes and Tender Lamb – not the Green Vegetable which must be avoided. At the foot of the page was the photo of  a Curry with a suitably minimal Masala and large wedges of Capsicum. I would use this is as my key.

What is this? – I asked the waiter in full knowledge of what I was pointing at.

The Capsicum was duly identified, along with the Curry – Chicken 65.

From here I confirmed that the Mutton Karahi would not be served with the dreaded Green Mush.

No garnish – was the chap’s conclusion.

The – Karahi Gosht – was duly ordered.

Spice Level was then discussed. Above Medium – was noted:

Make me sweat some more – was well received.

The half hour walk from Galata to Taksim had indeed worked up a sweat. It’s only 24ºC!

A Butter Naan (14TL) and a Big Water (18TL) completed the Order.

At this point I’ll give a guide to the exchange rate. We’re working on approximately 20TL to the £.

The litre bottle of Water enabled rehydration. One ought to see the hideous muck that comes out of the taps in Istanbul, worse even than Nelson St. (Glasgow).

We took in the décor. The marble tiled floor was wiped twice during or stay. The stone walls were faux, polystyrene. I only managed  one shot of the interior, the place was too full thereafter, no need to risk offending folk.

I hope he doesn’t bring a Chicken Karahi – I said to Marg whilst we waited. Marg assured me that she definitely heard the waiter say – Mutton Karahi – as he noted it.

The wait for the food was pleasingly long, it was being cooked. Despite having asked for the Pakora and Curry to be served together, Marg’s lunch arrived quite a bit before Hector’s, or had it?

Without a word, a different chap plonked down what lies below. Was this a Mix Veg Pakora, or something for us to nibble on whilst we waited? I looked around, the few who had arrived before us had nothing similar before them.

Mix Vegetable Pakora

I could see what I took to be strips of Potato in a freshly cooked, crispy batter. Marg declared strips of Onion. In time she identified both Vegetables. How was this Mix Vegetable? These are the standard two Vegetables in Pakora. The strips bemused, why had the Vegetables not been finely chopped? OK, Pakora as we expect it, is a British thing, probably even Scottish. The English have their – Bhaji.

The accompanying sauce was Ketchup, having established this, it was set aside. Nobody could make a Chilli Sauce, a Raita?

I took a Soupçon: Spicy and well Seasoned. Marg certainly enjoyed it:

I like it crispy, I don’t like it doughy.

Marg then went on to mention the Akash (Helensburgh, Scotland), the standard to which she compares all Pakora. Today’s Mix Vegetable Pakora certainly pleased.

Next, the hiatus.

When Hector’s food arrived at the table, an extra Curry was brought.

What’s this?

Chicken 65.

I didn’t order that.

This Curry was everything the Hector would not want. There is no photo here. Large pieces of white Chicken protruded from the reddest of Sauces, and yes, the Garnish was there. For a moment, I wondered if Marg would fall on the sword. No chance, back it went.

I have to admit partial responsibility here. Somehow, by illustrating what I did not want, that is what had come.

The Butter Naan was a sensible size. Thinner than anticipated, the neighbouring country to the west does Bread so well. Still, with suitably puffed blisters, this was fine. Every piece would be eaten.

Mutton Karahi

Large pieces of Mutton and the Coriander Topping stood out from the Thick Masala. I could see that Yoghurt had been added to the blended Masala. I was reasonably pleased with what I had been given, traces of Oil could be seen mixed through, only marginally on the periphery of the karahi as I have come to expect. I counted the Meat, eight, decent sized pieces. This was value for money.

On dipping the Naan, there was certainly a blast of pleasure, but no – wow. Perhaps a bit heavy on the – Creaminess. The Spice was there, Seasoning was not an issue. I was starting to feel a bit underwhelmed when I reevaluated the scene. This was certainly more than a Mainstream Karahi Gosht, what was I missing?

I emptied the remaining contents of the karahi onto the plate which had sat before me for some forty five minutes.

Now we’re talking, behold the classic grey-brown hue. The Masala looks stunning.

The Karahi Gosht simply hadn’t looked right. Eating with one’s eyes, possibly. Now the Oil separated, this looked more like a Desi Karahi. I also found more Meat, great value.

Is this what I have been missing by eating directly from these small karahi over the years?

The Meat varied from Tender to chewy. The taste of the Mutton came across strongly. The Meat and Masala combination was now giving out way more Flavour, Cumin could have been the standout Spice.

A sliver of bone was encountered along with something white, a piece of Offal. I am not used to having a boneless Karahi Gosht, I began to speculate as to how good today’s could have been if served – on-the-bone. I didn’t see that as an option on the menu.

As I wiped up the last traces of Masala, I felt a great sense of all round Spiciness on the palate. The efficacy of this Dish had been established. As I write, I realise the photos capture the richness of the Masala well. This was the Punjabi fayre I had hoped to source in Istanbul. My first Curry in Turkey, the standard has been set.

The Bill

197TL (£10.34)

Actually, this was my second Bill, the first still had the Chicken 65. All was explained at the counter. The Tip was more than double my usual rate. I had to accept some responsibility.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was given to the chap at the counter with the best English. He received it with enthusiasm.  Someone has already acknowledged my comment on another medium. Hopefully, this review will be well received.

2022 Menu

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Glasgow – Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen – The Return

Posted on May 7, 2022 by Hector

This afternoon, a return to Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen (186 West Regent St, Glasgow, G2 4RU), Hector had Fish Curry in mind. Arriving at 14.00, Sijin, Mein Host was in situ, once again the restaurant was empty. This time, of course, I was recognised. The warm greeting included a thanks for my review of Visit #1. That I was back so soon must say something about the quality of the fayre.

Seabass Malabar (£11.95) was expected to be as – Soupy – as the Lamb Kolhapuri enjoyed here last month, therefore, it had to be a Rice. The Mix Veggies Biryani will next be ordered when in company, today I asked about the Masala Rice (£2.75).

Like Pilau, but more intense flavours.

That sounded like the perfect accompaniment.

A glass of tap water was provided, thankfully, the bleach taste of Nelson Street was not present. I should really study the fridge to see what else is available. Bombaywalla operate a BYOB policy, not that this is of any interest to Curry-Heute.

The Masala Rice lived up to its promise, the Flavours from this were certainly satisfying. With the moistness, Spice and Seasoning, this could be eaten on its own. Indeed, Sijin confirmed that some customers have done so.

I decanted enough Rice to cover the plate, the leftover would not be eaten, I know my limits. Two could easily share one portion of Masala Rice, especially if Bread was also ordered.

Seabass Malabar

A yellow Curry with Coconut, quite a departure from the Hector norm. At least there were no Big Blobs of Onion. The Fish was from Kerala, I was informed. There was just enough to cover the central area of Rice. The Fish was soft, far from rubbery. Maybe a tad more in the portion would be a suggestion. How big was the Seabass?

I had hot food before me, the Spice built steadily. Mein Host told me that in Kerala, this Curry would be served seriously Spicy, here it was toned down. Still, the nose was wiped, more than once. The Curry Leaves were picked out and set aside as they were encountered. Hector’s digestive system does not process these.

Seasoning is all, and I’ve had many a Fish Curry where it has been lacking. No doubt the Masala Rice was adding to that of the Masala. The taste of the Seabass itself was pronounced on eating. Although visible in the Masala, the Coconut was not invasive, and the Masala was certainly not – sweet. Chillies – are mentioned in the description, today, no dried Red Chillies which would have added the smokiness. Still, this Curry’s Flavours were certainly a nod in the direction of southern India.

By the conclusion, I had eked out enough Fish not to be left with Rice and Masala. Some Peas mixed in here would have added an interesting diversity.

Every grain of Rice on the plate was eaten. The Curry had been certainly enjoyed. I would have this again.

The Bill

£14.70   In Scotland, Fish costs more than Lamb, very strange.

The Aftermath

There is nothing Hector enjoys more than talking – Curry – after a meal. Swadish take note. The Curry of South India and Sri Lanka was discussed as was Marg and Hector’s trip to the Golden Triangle: New Delhi, Jaipur, Agra.

An hour or so later, the full taste of South Indian Curry was lingering on the palate. No Red Chillies, I conclude the Tamarind and Coconut must therefore play a significant role. Thankfully, Coconut in Curry does not always mean – Korma. And – Korma – does not always mean – bland – as – Desi Korma – proves.

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Loanhead – The Radhuni – By Invitation #3

Posted on May 4, 2022 by Hector

Hector and Marg were invited to the launch of the new menu at The Radhuni (93 Clerk St., Loanhead EH20 9RE Scotland) on April 10. Unfortunately we were in Berlin, where the task of tracking down worthy Curry finally bore fruit. Thankfully, Julia and Scott of Hotel PR, whom we met at The Radhuni’s 10th Anniversary celebration in September last year, were able to liaise with Habibur, Mein Host, and arrange a separate invitation for two.

Today was our third visit to The Radhuni, a similar invitation was extended back in 2018. This meant that the 2022 menu could be compared with its predecessor which is posted on a well known and reliable Curry Blog.

We arrived at a sunny Loanhead a good half an hour before our scheduled 17.30 booking. A quick phone call, and all was sorted, we were expected. This evening we were shown to a table for two in the middle dining room. The sheer size of The Radhuni still amazes, the shop frontage belies the Tardis-like interior. And there’s outside dining to the rear.

The new menu was brought, a large bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.50) was ordered. Poppadoms etc. were declined so as not to take the edge off our appetites.

I reminded Marg that last time, she had the impressive Shatkora Lamb, whilst I had the Rogan Fish, we shared an Aloo Gobi. Hopefully tonight we would find something as enjoyable, who knows, even better?

Whilst I did my best to photograph the menu, Marg had a head start and found one of the new Dishes: The Indian Railway Curry (£15.95) – Tandoori cooked lamb chops in a ‘handi’ known as a pot in English, cooked with chef’s special spices and spinach, medium strength dish which is a must try to get a flavour of Indian street food.

Marg’s love of cremated Lamb Chops is well recorded in these pages. The declaration of – medium strength – was also up her street. That this was one of the dearest items on the menu did make her think twice. Hector’s brain was already pondering – how many Lamb Chops?

The list of Radhuni Specialities has certainly grown, I’ll list the changes below and all the descriptions are posted at the foot of this review. It was at the very end of the Specialities that I found my favourite word associated with Curry – dry. Khala Goost (£12.95) – a dry soft lamb dish cooked on our “Tawah”, slow cooked with medium spices and onions and peppers and tomatoes garnished with coriander and black pepper – was another new addition.

The description intrigued: a stir fry or a Curry? Soft lamb – which I took not to be – Tikka Lamb. Could the – peppers – be withheld? (Why were they even included in the first place?)

Again we would share a Side: Aloo Mater (£7.25). To complete the Order: Rice Boiled (£4.50) and a Nan (£4.50).

The waiter took the order at 17.30. As per the Poppadoms, I explained why we would have no Starters. We were here to appraise the Curry, also, we had an array of Canapés on our last visit.

The Indian Railway Curry was noted on the pad, as was the Khala Goost – without Capsicum and above medium Spice. Next the Rice, and eventually the Naan. The waiter had asked if we would prefer a Garlic Nan (£4.95)? Marg was straight in, pointing out that the Garlic can dominate, and hence alter the overall taste of a Curry. I put in a pitch for a Coriander Naan, the pad was not programmed for this it appears. A Paratha (£5.25) was also suggested, but declined. Last time, the Paratha did not pass the Curry-Heute checklist, and I had noted how wonderful the Naan looked. Hector was having his Naan, or share of one at least.

Without Starters, one had to accept that the Mains would take time to prepare. At The Radhuni, we had previously established that the Curry does not come in minutes as with too many venues I could name.

I counted ten new additions to – The Radhuni Specialities:

Methi Gosht or Chicken (£12.95)

Chicken Tikka Jaipuri (£12.95)

The Indian Railway Curry (£15.95)

Milly Jilly (£13.95)

Lamb Rezala (£13.95)

Ashok’s Special Mix Curry (£15.95)

Keema Chilli Masala (£12.95)

Chicken Tikka Jalfrezi (£12.95)

Goan Fish (£13.55)

Khala Goost (£12.95)

As far as I could make out, three Dishes have been dropped:

Sarisha Murgh

Achari Gosht

Chicken Jalfrezi

Achari Gosht is always a Hector fallback when nothing else stands out on a menu. Today, the Methi Gosht would have been my alternative. I feel one coming on soon.

At 18.00 the waitress brought hot plates and a candlelit platform for the Mains. As the food was assembled on the table, it became apparent that we had both ordered Mains that were distinctly different from the Mainstream Meat and Masala which prevails.

The Rice portion was the same as last time which I reported as – Modest. Tonight, I wondered what we were going to do with all this Rice? The Naan, look at this Naan! For Hector, everything here was ticking the boxes. The size, the teardrop shape, the risen, puffy blisters. Marg liked it because it wasn’t doughy, I prefer the chunkier pieces. Can we both be right? Only crumbs were left at the end. The perfect Naan.

The Indian Railway Curry

The presentation was a major departure from what was expected. Three large Lamb Chops sat under a smothering of a Spinach Mash. Was this in fact a Curry? Did it matter? Nobody was going to be disappointed with this.

I cannot recall seeing a Railway Curry which was not Meat and Masala, and usually a thin one. The term – handi – had appeared in the description, often a license for Chef to do as he pleases. I took a Soupçon of the Spinach Mash, as its appearance suggested, this would not have been out of place in a Saag/Palak. The – herby bitterness – was present. Thereafter it was down to quality of the Lamb Chops, and none were coming my way. Beneath their dark and mysterious coating, it was difficult to tell if they had been suitably cremated.

Whilst the three Chops were certainly enough for Marg, she did admit that maybe someone with a larger appetite may have found this Dish to be on the small side. Marg and Hector do take the eating of Lamb Chops very seriously. There’s one thing better than three Lamb Chops – four. There’s two things better than three Lamb Chops…

Marg’s verdict:

Three richly covered chops, with a thick masala of spinach, onion, and herbs. I enjoyed the tender meat, and the necessary gnawing of the bone, to extract the remaining meat from the bone. The hot and crispy Naan worked well with the sauce. A thin Naan, not doughy, no Rice required.

Aloo Mater

This was the only choice of the three which actually resembled a traditional – Curry. It was therefore a justification for having the Rice. Potato and Peas were expected, the cooked Tomato wedges offered even more. The Masala resembled a blended Vegetable pulp as is the norm in such a creation. The fluffy Potatoes had absorbed some of the Flavours from the Masala. From somewhere, possibly the Peas, a slight sweetness was evident.

Hector always seeks Diversity, the Aloo Mater certainly completed the meal.

Khala Goost

Presented in a karahi, this could easily have been served sizzling on an iron platter. Dry – was promised, Dry was delivered. When the Head Waiter came to check on our progress I informed him:

I think we have chosen well.

The waitress checked on us a couple of times, there was no more we needed.

Some of the Onions were cooked to black, how good did they taste? The Lamb puzzled, I studied it closely. There were no signs of skewer holes, so not Tandoori Lamb. My deduction, the Lamb had indeed been dry fried on the Tawa. This Meat did have cremated extremities. Every mouthful was going to be sheer joy, Meat that was giving Flavour, it had to, given the lack of an obvious Masala. The karahi was not just Lamb and Onions. Tomatoes were listed, again I deduce that these had been cooked down to create the fine coating over the Meat. This Dish was – Dry – but suitably – moist. It’s Soupy Masala we try to avoid, this creation was on another level.

The Spice built steadily, the Seasoning was not an issue. Bay Leaves were extracted from the Mash. There was a definite depth of Flavour to this – Curry.

On scraping the last pieces of Onion from the base of the karahi, an extra blast of burnt offerings, wonderful. Usually I use my Naan/Chapatti to mop up the Masala, today I enjoyed the Meat in Bread. Did I mention how wonderful the Naan was?

My deductions of course are possibly well wide of the mark. My favoured Karahi Gosht, is in effect a fried Curry, this Khala Goost was something else altogether.

We had chosen well, this indeed was a treat.

There’s more

Marg likes to finish her meal with a Coffee, tonight my mouth felt as though it required that special feeling that only Tea, after a Spicy meal, can create. A Caffe Latte (£2.95) and a Tea (£2.25) – no milk or sugar – were ordered as the waiter presented the Dessert menu. I reminded Marg we were here to review the Curry.

After Curry Mints – novel. By some miraculous process, my Tea was transformed into Coffee. No problem, it was piping hot, as not enough venues serve their Coffee.

This was the tastiest Coffee I’ve had in months. It was well after 18.00, no sleep for Hector tonight.

My thanks to Scott and Julia of Hotel PR who arranged this evening. My special thanks to Mein Host, Mr. Habibur Khan for the invitation, and his staff for looking after us. Hopefully the Calling Card went some way towards explaining our presence this evening.

In Curry-Heute, the majority of restaurants are described as – Mainstream. The new menu certainly proves that The Radhuni offers more.

2022 Menu

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Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – Eid Mubarak – The Buffet

Posted on May 1, 2022 by Hector

How I have missed the Ramadan Buffet at The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA). No other Buffet, ever encountered, puts on so many authentic Punjabi offerings, in addition to Curry that caters for the less adventurous.

With Kath and Graeme resident for one night, here was the opperchancity to show the best of Glasgow Curry. It is some eight years since they were introduced to the fayre at The Village. By coincidence, our last Ramadan Buffet was also with Aberdoom relatives.

We were advised to arrive in good time before the 21.00 Buffet launch. The window table nearest the action was allocated. Cola (£2.50), and a sensibly priced bottle of Sparkling Water (£2.95), would complement the jugs of tap water consumed. Does all of Glasgow’s tap water taste of bleach, or is it just Nelson Street properties?

From my vantage point I could see the array of Starters being assembled. The change of layout at The Village meant I initially could not see the tureens which would soon be filled with assorted Curry.

The manager came to the table to greet, it was he who would give the – go! He declared the place to be less busy tonight, the turnout was still the largest gathering in a restaurant I have witnessed since … well my last Village Ramadan Buffet.

A Soupçon of Dates were brought, amuse bouche. Graeme had never tasted Dates in this manner before. The tables remain separated by a considerable distance, hopefully normality will be restored soon. I’ll mark today by pointing out that we Scots no longer have to self isolate, unless one chooses to.

We were in the queue when the 21.03 official start was rung out. Salads and Sauces were the first in order, as if … well Marg couldn’t resist the Fruit Salad, she also asked what the first Meaty Starter was – Chicken Nuggets – tee-hee. There were a few kids present this evening, one already in his pyjamas.

Strangely, there was a tray of Sandwiches. Who would want a sandwich when all the rest was available? On the return to our table, I noted that the chaps sitting nearest had purloined many, what did they know that I didn’t?

Previously, I have managed to have plate in one hand, camera in the other, and record the array as I have worked my way along the delights. Tonight, I must have had plate and camera in the wrong hands.

After the rush, I was able to go back and capture, near enough, the key Starters, and also note that I missed out on a Chapli variant (above left). There was no sign of Kasif or his father, Mr. Baig, it was new faces who dished out the Starters. Later, one was able to go up and help oneself, I suppose they don’t want the premium items being hoarded at one one table, as if. Had there been Lamb Chops, Graeme might have been tempted to do so. The Fish Pakora (above right) was a departure from the norm.  I shall be asking more about this in future a la carte visits.

Hector & Marg’s plates of Starters, respectively.

Samosa, Spring Rolls, Vegetable Pakora, Fish Pakora, Chicken Chat, Chicken Tikka (two styles of Chicken anyway), Chapli Kebab, Aloo Pakora, Potato Pancake/Rosti.

The latter certainly intrigued. I shall have to search through my collection of Indian Cookbooks to find the recipe for these. Mashed Potato, and more. This is the joy of having access to such an array of Starters, one should always find something new and interesting. Chicken Chat/Tikka, I have always enjoyed these Indian versions of Nando’s. Why pour sauce over them to create – Curry?

Each member of our four remarked on the Spice, having sampled all, our palates were certainly being stimulated. The freshness of each item was apparent, the diversity of Flavours and Textures. Our guests were certainly impressed by the array, and soon realised that the cardinal sin is to overdose on the Starters. With this in mind, one year, I came here twice: a night for Starters, a night for Curry.

The table was cleared, time for a break, there’s no rush, let the food digest before assault #2. I joined the handful of diners who went up first for the Curry, no plate, camera in hand. This was the sensible way to record a Buffet.

The Bread and the Rice were first in line. Yeah, fill your plate with these, no way. Actually, there were two sizes of plate to choose from, standard, and seriously large. Marg, where can we buy these large plates? Both Chicken and Lamb Pilau followed the Naan.

I had advised Graeme that tonight was his opperchancity to try the Punjabi – delicacies – that he is unlikely ever to encounter in Aberdoom. If he ever does, then he’d know what he was committing himself to. I was therefore delighted to see Haleem as the first Curry, not that I would be having any this year. I had already described it as – ingredients cooked for one hundred years. Paye (Trotters) came later. Delicacies.

Daal Makhani was next, this I love, and as Graeme makes a decent Daal, this would not go untouched.

Keema Karela was a standout Curry back in 2019’s Ramadan Buffet, it was good to see this rarity once again. As with the Daal Makhani, for the discerning diner who can manage the Bitterness of this fine Vegetable. And to have it in Mince? Genius! This would test Marg.

Daal Chana and Chicken Chana, not for the Hector, let’s move on.

Chicken Kirahi, as has been written oft in Curry-Heute, Hector would not be tempted here either. Had it been Lamb Karahi, then damage to this tureen would have been done.

Chicken Tikka Masala, well it had to be here, I suppose. This was the only Curry on offer with the dreaded green contaminant, that says it all. Was adding the Capsicum, the needless Ballast, Chef’s little joke?

Butter Chicken, another one for the ladies, well Marg certainly, who could not walk past this. It was surely time for the big hitters?

Lamb Bhuna, just look at that Masala. This was the classic Village Curry, masses of it, waiting to be devoured. Why did I have any Starters? You mean I have to share this with the rest of the diners?

Next up, Paye, for those who want to get down and dirty. After the thicker Masala of the Bhuna, who would choose this Shorva? But many do, and I appreciate its popularity, it’s not for me, more for those who wanted it. How considerate is Hector?

Nihari, close to what I had at Swadish yesterday, looks different when not served as a portion. Gone was the impact of the Lamb Shank standing proud in the Shorva. This looked a somewhat uninviting mess, but would no doubt be appreciated by those in the know.

Finally, Lamb on-the-bone, that this was last in line was probably a calculated decision. What could possibly follow The Village‘s Lamb Curry on-the-bone?

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So, up we went. There are no prizes for guessing what the ladies selected. Is Curry-Heute becoming sexist? Was it ever not? As predicted, Marg did not pass by the Keema Karela or Butter Chicken, Kath had the Chicken Tikka Masala. I pointed out the – must tries – to Graeme. He was game, and took Soupçons of the Haleem and Paye in addition to the other Men’s Curry. OK, I’ll stop this, until next time.

Here we go, again

Kath and I must have both started on the Daal Makhani at the same moment. It was powerful, full on Spice, we both sneezed. Marg declared it to be too much for her, that meant that everything which followed should not be. Alas, the Keema Karela was not far behind on the Spice Scale. This Keema was certainly demanding, those who cannot handle the – bitter gourd – should be warned. In the early days of Curry-Heute, Hector could not get enough Karela, or Karelae as many refer to it. You do not get this in a Mainstream Buffet.

                      Lamb Bhuna                                        Lamb on-the-bone

Next up it was Lamb Bhuna (boneless) v’s Lamb on-the-bone. If ever the something extra which bone on Curry presents, it was made clear this evening. There was a gasp from the Hector when the – on-the-bone – was tasted, a huge – Wow! The Shorva had run across my plate, bring on the Pilau. That it was in a Shorva was my only query, however, I accept that there are times when it has to be. The thicker, blended Masala in the Bhuna, as observed above, was magnificent. The Lamb was Tender to chewy-Tender, had I been served this, no doubt I would have been content. As I finished my plate, I knew that the Bhuna was filling the stomach when more Lamb on-the-bone could have been.

My fellow diners were already straining to see if the Desserts were in situ. Hector’s adage – if I have room for Dessert, then I have room for more Curry – came into vogue. Off they went, I discarded my large plate, a fresh, small plate would be sufficient. Alas, I was not the only person to have realised that the Lamb on-the-bone was the standout Curry this evening. The tureen contained bones and Shorva, the Meat had been skilfully sieved.

At this point, I had a choice: go for Dessert, or ask for more Lamb Curry. The last time I asked for more Curry, instead of refilling the tureen, a karahi full of my chosen Curry was brought to the table, way more than I could comfortably manage. Tonight, it was the honourable course, and given yesterday’s mass of Meat at Swadish, it was time to call it a day.

Except, I found myself, camera in hand, at the Desserts. Gulab Jamun, Kath was nearly tempted, Gajar Halwa and Sweet Rice were the premium Desserts. Cheese Cake, two styles, proved irresistible to Hector. Graeme loves Jelly. Not content with all that sat before her, Marg ordered four scoops of Ice Cream (£3.95), to share, allegedly.

Village Lamb on-the-bone, Mmmm.

The Bill

£81.20 … £17.95 per head for the Buffet. Kath could not believe the base price, but then Aberdoom is needlessly expensive. We had our money’s worth.

The Aftermath

The Village was almost empty when we departed. Afterwards, I secured a few words from Marg:

I found the Daal (Makhani) too spicy, the Butter Chicken helped to calm my mouth and went well with the Naan. I had the Bhuna Lamb, very tender and rich in flavour. (QED) I loved the variety of Starters, with Salad and Fruit Salad, a healthy addition.

The Village Ramadan Buffet, evidently, an evening of healthy eating.

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Glasgow – Swadish – Modern Indian Cuisine

Posted on April 30, 2022 by Hector

Hector dining in the Merchant City? It must either be by invitation, or a special occasion. Pukka Dining is not the Hector norm, however, Marg was happy to indulge the Curry Hound on a significant birthday.

Swadish (33 Ingram Street, Glasgow G1 1HA) is not a Curry House as normally referenced in Curry-Heute, but a restaurant serving Indian Cuisine. I differentiate due to the minimal number of Curry Dishes on offer. Also, the Menu is not needlessly huge.

Having studied the fayre over the last couple of years, I wondered if there would be anything suitable for me at all. Karahi Gosht, to the best of my knowledge, has never featured at Swadish. Dare I report my empirical observation that the Meat element of the Menu is more suited to the fairer sex? Lots of classic Chicken Curry, not enough Lamb. I shall back up this statement with references to evenings I have dined with a dozen plus ladies: Shahi Masala (Manchester) and Shri Bheema’s (Bridge of Don). Curry-Heute tends not recognise Chicken Dishes as proper – Curry.

Just in case, a booking was made for 14.30 this afternoon. We arrived punctually and were shown to a table in the corner, at the window. Window dressing. To be fair, the diners were well spread out around the restaurant. Marg immediately took to the ambience, cherry blossom hung like hops do in Deustche Bierhalle. At least there were no tablecloths.

The A4 Menu was on the table, I was pleased to see two Lamb Mains, Marg got her selection in first: Braised Hydrabi Lamb Korma (£15.00) – Tender Scottish Lamb beautifully braised for hours, Cloves, Cinnamon, Brown Onion Sauce. The Korma as it should be.

Two things here pleased the Hector: the Capitalisations, and that this was not a standard Creamy Korma. This left me with the Lamb Shank Rogan Josh (£18.00) – Tender Scottish Lamb Shank Braised in Bone Marrow, Cinnamon, Fennel Seeds, Cloves for hours for delicate flavours and mouth melting texture. Topped with Crispy Straw Potatoes.

In Europe, abundant Rice would be inclusive, especially at these prices. This is the Merchant City. Our usual dining model is to share a Rice and Bread. Marg’s preferred Chapatti was not on the Menu. The descriptions of the meals, and online photos confirmed the Curry here would be – Soupy. We needed Rice, but how much? We asked Sanjeev, our waiter, to describe the size of a Rice portion.

Small bowl – was the reply. So two Rice, or Long Grain Basmati Pilau (£3.00) to be precise. A 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water (£5.50) – they’re having a laugh – completed the Order.

No Starters. Large portions for The Mains were anticipated. I must mention the Roasted Lamb Chops, an Appetiser – £17.00 – for an undeclared number. I would expect at least eight, someone do tell me how many. (For Lamb Chops in Glasgow, go to Akbar’s.)

Would you like Poppadoms? – asked Sanjeev on completion of his note-taking.

This is a game I don’t play.

On the shelf behind Marg, sat the Awards won by Swadish. Who wins Awards? I did note that the majority of the customers this afternoon were ladies. Triangulation complete re the Menu, I rest my case.

Hot plates were brought by a young lady, the food arrived moments later.

The Rice Bowls were hot, as in super-hot. Marg spooned off her required amount, I managed to tilt the contents of my bowl with the aid of the cloth napkin. Two observations: we had way more Rice than we could ever eat, and so we had needlessly missed out on ordering a Naan. This Rice was more complex than a standard Pilau.

The aroma from the Basmati was powerful, Cloves, yay! On tasting the Rice, it was apparent that this was from the same stable as the Spicy Rice whose recipe appears in Curry-Heute. I should make Spicy Rice more often, a delight that enhances any Curry. The Rice today was excellent.

Lamb Shank Rogan Josh

The ornate Toppings were commensurate with the locale. I would rather have forgone these and paid a fiver less.

Enjoy the moment, Hector, it’s your birthday treat.

Bone Marrow was the only clue given as to the base of the Shorva. Behold the Soupiness which Hector typically eschews, however, this was Curry. But which Curry?

In what way was this a Rogan Josh? The traditional wedges of Tomato were absent, as thankfully was the overdone Creaminess which has evolved in recent times. Maybe this Masala was a thick, creamy-ish Shorva?

The Meat fell off the bone – an overused cliché perhaps, but that is exactly what happened, my knife would never be used. Lamb Shank, by definition, a cheaper cut of Meat which must be slow cooked.

One prod with my fork released all of the Lamb from the bone. I carefully decanted the pieces of Meat and then the Shorva. Crucially my photo captured the Meat from the interior of the Shank, sat next to the bone itself. More on this below…

Cloves and Cinnamon, I knew what was coming, I was not disappointed. The intensity of Flavour from the Shorva was taking the palate to the south of India. One has to accept that here the Spiciness was all about the Flavours, not the heat. The Chilli content here was low, if present at all. The Seasoning was there, just, but with the blasts of Cinnamon and Cloves – from the Rice also – there was enough going on here.

Then there was the Meat. The Taste of the Lamb came across, however, as the photo shows, the Spices had not permeated the Meat through to the bone. So, for how many hours had this been – slow cooked? The interior Meat was – taking in Flavour – not giving; visit any of Glasgow’s Southside Curry Cafes to experience the opposite.

Meat and a Spicy Sauce, the definition of Curry, surely? Meat, Shorva and Rice, no diversity, the meal became monotonous. An Interesting Vegetable would have enhanced the Dish. Kerching!

Rogan Josh, really? Was this not Nihari with extra Cloves and Cinnamon?

Braised Hydrabadi Lamb Korma

Here I can use – Masala – with confidence. Far less – Soupy – the sauce had a much thicker consistency, closer to our preference. Beneath the artistic Toppings and Masala, sat large pieces of Lamb, there was clearly a sufficient portion here also. The Soupçon of Masala which crossed the table wasn’t a huge departure from my own Curry.

For the record, nobody came to check on our progress/enjoyment during the meal. Marg gave her detailed description:

Beautifully presented, with an abundance of rice, interesting flavours of Cinnamon, Clove, mixed well with the masala texture. A quantity of Lamb pieces, extremely tender, worked well with the Korma dish. No cream to be seen, a tomatoey, onion sauce, very enjoyable.

It sounds like a decent Lamb Curry then!

Whilst I attempted to finish my Rice, Marg ordered a Latte (£3.30). Sanjeev then presented non-alcoholic digestifs. Cucumber – was Marg’s take, Antiseptic – was mine. The Coffee was enjoyed.

The Bill

£47.80 We had been well fed in pleasant surroundings. It was at this time we established the name of our waiter. QED. Marg’s birthday is not until January, I can start saving.

The Aftermath

I asked Sanjeev to give the Calling Card to his boss. I assumed that this would go via the manager who must surely been made aware of the note-taking and photography at the window. We were actually outside before he acknowledged us. A chat about the philosophy of Swadish would have been appreciated. Does the owner, a Punjabi Chef, ever present Karahi Gosht?

Later, there was a cake. 

This year, I didn’t have to bake my own.

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April 2022 Menu

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Glasgow – Yadgar Kebab House – A third of the way to the next – Hundred!

Posted on April 25, 2022 by Hector

More Curry, just what Hector needed after Saturday’s excess at Khyber Pass Restaurant. Today Marg was available for lunch, something light was required, Vegetarian even, Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) never disappoints.

Prior to our Yadgar visit, there was a visit to one of the Asian grocers on nearby Allison Street. Hector will not be running out of Oil anytime soon.

The seating area was empty, but not for long. The 14.00 opening time appears to be settled. Shafiq was behind the counter dealing with the first Takeaway customer of the day. I managed to nudge the chap aside in order to survey the fayre, and photograph it, of course.

Aloo Gobi, perfect. The Aloo Keema Mutter would suit Marg. The Chapli Kebabs were covered, what a pile, someone has been busy. We took our seats. The latest waiter took the Order. Two Chapli for me (aye right), a Naan was added also, plus two cans of Mango Rubicon. It was revealed that the Keema was – Chicken Mince. Marg was happy with this.

The Chapli came in no time at all, accompanied by a cold Chilli Dip. Naveed hadn’t arrived yet, had he been present, the Dip might have been hot. Who knows what else might have been presented, he has a track record. Read previous Yadgar blog entries to get the idea.

Chicken Chapli

A generous half went east, the remainder was quite sufficient. Hector would say that, this was not a Lamb Chop scenario.

Hot, Spicy, Tasty, excellent Chapli, that they were not Lamb-based mattered not a jot. Was this Hector going Vegetarian? Chicken is not Meat according to many a menu.

Naveed entered, the customary greetings were exchanged. The Mains arrived before we had finished the Chapli.

The round Naan was served whole. Thin, the way Marg prefers it, there were some blisters. No panhandle, still, a worthy Naan, all but a scrap would be eaten. Marg acknowledged that sharing this was a positive change from our usual Chapatti.

Aloo Gobi

Steaming hot, a good start. The peripheral Oil stood out as did the Coriander Topping. Sliced Green Chillies would soon be encountered, no issue with the Spice Level here, or the Seasoning. This is Yadgar, they get it right. And so the distinctive Yadgar Taste flooded out, it still impresses that the same core – flavours – come across as they would in a Goshat Karahi.

Fluffy Potatoes, the Cauliflower was soft, but nowhere near going to pulp, perfect Textures. I always think some of the tiny florets are pulped and then used in the Masala. Having sat in the Masala, the Potatoes gave off the Flavour from there also.

Hector, beware of the Black Cardamom – too late!

I recalled once more (Hector Bingo!), the first time I encountered a Black Cardamom: the mid 1970s at Noor Mahal (Shawlands), I thought I had bitten in to an eye.

Naveed was back out, was there anything more we required? A light lunch was the plan, we had all that we needed. Had I spotted Fish Pakora, I may have been tempted.

Meanwhile, Marg was thoroughly enjoying her – Mince & Tatties.

Aloo Murgh Keema Mutter

There’s dry and there’s – Dry. No peripheral Oil, I could not see much in the way of Masala. How many venues mistakenly serve this as approaching – Soup? The Potato pieces were substantial, plenty of Peas in there too. Marg could eat this every day.

A very rich and flavoursome dish full of different textures, and a step above my favourite – Mince& Tatties. A wonderful meal.

So, she enjoyed it then.

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Time to pay, I speculated as to what randomly low number Naveed would come up with today.

The Bill

£12.00   Honourable – I put to Naveed.

Naveed nodded.

The Aftermath

5kg of Basmati and 5l of Olive Oil were carried back to the car.

Half an hour later, a Cumin Seed dislodged itself from wherever it had been trapped. A Cumin blast, I love this!

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Glasgow – Khyber Pass Restaurant – Under New Management

Posted on April 23, 2022 by Hector

Four days ago, a certain social medium flagged up that it is three years since my last visit to Khyber Pass Restaurant ( St. Andrews Road, Glasgow, G41 1PD). Despite having had Karahi Gosht on my last two Curry outings, I thought I might squeeze in another. Opperchancities for my favourite Curry may be limited in May.

With Central Station Low Level closed for some weeks yet, I have become used to taking the Subway from Partick to the Southside. Shields Rd. is the handiest stop for the Khyber Pass.

Arriving at 14.45, the premises were seemingly empty, nobody front of house. Mein Host came out from the back kitchen, my Order was relayed.

A half kilo of Lamb Karahi (£13.00) and a Plain Naan (£1.00).

As I approached a table in the main dining area, it was confirmed that my Order was for sitting in. Spice Level was then discussed:

Spicy, but not crazy Spicy.

The smile confirmed this was understood.

I took the opperchancity to photograph the far dining room in which I have yet to sit. As I studied the Takeaway Menu, I established that there was no price difference for dining in. My Naan was officially – Fresh Plain Nan. The Bread prices at Khyber Pass have always been realistic.

The cooking of my Karahi was to be done in the open cooking area behind the counter. With greater familiarity, I would have approached to record the moment. Hector the bashful.

*

A Salad and Raita were brought to the table. I asked for a jug of water, having seen no Sparkling Water in the fridges. The Salad was certainly better than – modest, the thin Raita had a Peppery kick. At this point I established that the – New Management – have been in place for four months. My question – what happened to the other guys? – fell on deaf ears.

These premises have changed hands at least twice since I first visited – The Khyber – back in March, 2011. Thankfully, the traditional Afghani – Namkeen Karahi – has been maintained throughout all formats. Original Khyber in Shawlands claim to be the chaps who were here first in St. Andrews Road. It is a year since I made my only, visit there. That was for Takeaway during Lockdown restrictions.

After fifteen minutes of scraping, stirring and rolling (the dough), the Order was brought to the table. A – gasp – may have been audible. I had never seen Meat piled so high in a karahi.

Lamb Karahi

At Namak Mandi, I have been served half kilos which have just reached the rim of a comparable karahi. Last Saturday at Karahi Palace, my – portion – was definitely approaching the half kilo. Today’s was decidedly more than the half kilo, could one fit a whole kilo into this karahi? Usually the kilo is served in a larger, and preferably flat, vessel.

The Naan, served whole, was also huge. Despite the perforations, it had risen, probably due to the sheer amount of dough. I suspect some wholemeal flour had gotten into the dough mix. The Bread had risen to create a sufficient level of fluffiness.

I had to decant the Meat to the plate, else my Karahi would have been all over the table. Twelve good sized pieces of Lamb then sat on the plate,

I had hardly made a dent in the contents of the karahi. The Oil ran across the plate. This was not going to waste, especially at a time when cooking Oil is rapidly disappearing from our supermarket shelves.

The first wipe of Oil immediately confirmed the efficacy of this Curry. The anticipated – Pepperiness – was there, and of course, the – Seasoning. The Masala shrouded the Meat, there wasn’t much room in the karahi for an excess. Tomato-based, this was the real deal, the only – red – that would have been added to the pot when cooking. Tomatoes, Green Chillies, Salt and Pepper cooked for hours, hopefully with Lamb on-the-bone in situ. Namkeen Karahi has such a distinctive, full on Flavour,  the simplicity of its magnificence still baffles after all these years.

With the first plateful eaten, along with some Salad, another dozen pieces of Meat were decanted. At this point I accepted that I would be paying for the kilo, I knew I could not eat all that sat before me. That which remained in the karahi would go to a good home, in Helensburgh. The Bread would have to be abandoned, I had hardly eaten any Naan.

The Lamb was Chewy-Tender, it’s exhausting eating this much Meat. I had long passed the point where pleasure was giving way to meeting the challenge. Determination made me eat what was on my plate, that and an honourable upbringing. Mother would have been proud.

It would have been criminal to question the quantity at the point of serving. I took the remaining portion of, still hot, Namkeen Karahi up to the counter:

That’s the largest half kilo I have ever seen.

That was a kilo – was the not unexpected reply.

Perhaps my gentle, West of Scotland accent would have been better served by applying the harsher, Eastend – hoff kilo. (Of course, Hector does not actually have an accent.)

Why would one man order a kilo and not be challenged?

The Bill

£27.00         No hidden charges, so all was well.

The Aftermath

Four customers had arrived as I completed my meal. Mein Host was busy, I drew his attention and left the Calling Card on the counter.

I shall certainly be returning to the latest version of Khyber Pass Restaurant. Being open all day makes the venue fit in with Hector’s preferred eating time. Marg loves Namkeen Karahi, so I shall have someone to share with.

One final piece of information today: the astounding Ramadan Buffet at The Village is back. This should not be missed. This year, the Ramadan Buffet starts at 21.00. 

Menu extracts

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