Edinburgh – Celestia – By Invitation

On this dreich Sunday afternoon, Hector and Marg headed east to the capital. Mohammad Abass, proprietor of Celestia (18 Eyre Place, Edinburgh EH3 5EP) had invited us to review his latest enterprise. Opened in the spring of this year, Celestia follows on from Cilantro and Bo’ness Spice, both of which have been reviewed in these pages.

Located on an arterial road in the heart of Stockbridge, Celestia aims to deliver a luxury dining experience. Heavenly Cuisine – served in the north-west of Edinburgh, with prices to match, the opposite end of the spectrum from Marg and Hector’s €5.00 feast at Zam Zam (Roma) posted last month.

Celestia opens daily at 13.00 and remains so all afternoon, perfect for those of us who enjoy a Curry mid-afternoon. Arriving early for our 17.00 booking, we would be the first diners this evening. Greeted by the young waitress, she checked the book to verify our reason for being here. Mein Host would not be present today, one day we’ll actually meet. With the choice of any seats in the restaurant, we took a corner table at the window. The decidedly deluxe menu was brought, drinks were sorted, a large bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.25?).

For the less abstemious, there are two beer taps, the Indian IPA will have to be explored at a later date.

When invited to review a restaurant, and today makes five in the east of Scotland, our model has been to eschew Starters and concentrate on the Curry: two main courses and a Vegetable Side. To not have a Starter at Celestia would surely be a mistake. Thought and imagination have clearly been applied here, how could one resist such an array of Interesting Vegetarian Starters? Marg selected – Assorted Vegetable Crisp (£7.95), whilst the Hector chose Potato Khubani Tiki Chat (£9.75).

The Hector already knew his choice of main course: Gongora Lamb Mamam (£18.95). Gongora (sorrel/roselle) is a herb seen oft in Asian grocers, but to date, never bought by this commentator. A sour leaf used in South Indian cooking, this would be a new experience. Despite – bell pepper – being clearly mentioned on the menu, Marg surprised me by opting for Lamb Karahi (£17.95). Back to the model: Mushroom Pulao (£4.95) and a Butter Naan (3.50) would complete the Order.

Even dining at Celestia as guests, it would not be true to Curry-Heute if I did not admit to steering Marg away from her customary Roti (£3.25). Especially having just returned from Bradford where, traditionally, three Chapattis are included with each main course. All things in perspective, this is fine dining, but Bread remains flour and water.

Poppadoms etc. were offered, as apparently they always must, declined. I explained that we had no wish to fill up on these when much better things awaited.

I asked that there would be a substantial gap between Starters and main courses.

With further time to take in the surroundings, pink and purple was Marg’s take, the Hector went for – lilac, the illumination is the major feature of the décor. No tablecloths, yay, every table was set to match the menu. Ambient piano music, filled the air. Between tracks, someone in the kitchen held fort. Ambience, Marg likes ambience, the antithesis of my Bradford Curry last week where one had to ask for cutlery. Hector can enjoy Curry in both Worlds.

Potato Khubani Tiki Chat

Clearly, this was neither Bradford or Roma, the presentation bordered on the spectacular. Topped with Sev, this Chat had the expected ingredients – abundant Chana, (Chickpeas) and the three sauces: Yoghurt, Tamarind and Green Chutney. Pomegranate Seeds and Cress also formed part of the garnish. This was going to be a veritable melange of Textures and hopefully Flavours.

Whole Potato is what was expected, instead, a more complex Mash sat beneath the Toppings, two balls. I would have preferred these to be served hotter, but maybe that would have interfered with the other ingredients. On tackling the Potato Mash, Cumin was to the fore.

Well Seasoned, the Tamarind playing a significant part here, there was also a considerable kick, from where, I never established. Khubani, apricot, wherever this was, again not picked up by this diner. Perhaps in the Mash?

The gritty Sev, fine noodles made from Chana Flour, more associated with Bombay Mix, marked one end of the spectrum of Textures, the Potato Mash, the other. In between, the seasonal Pomegranate was a welcome addition. In terms of both Texture and Flavours, the synergy of this creation impressed.

Assorted Vegetable Crisp

Pomegranate, Cress and the artistic flourish of Sauces immediately caught the eye, the Banana Leaf beneath, all part of the creativity. Hector does not see this in the humble Curry Cafes of Glasgow’s Southside. The principal players: three masses of what I shall describe as Bhaji-meets-Pakora. Regular readers should predict the intrusion of – there ain’t no such thing as an Onion Bhaji. Hector’s Soupçon was half of one ball. With Potato and Onion most identifiable, I found these to be – Dry. Marg kept offering the red sauce, I resisted, and continued to marvel at the Seasoning. This was at the – brave – end of the scale. Karrah! – no Seasoning, no Flavour.

My reason for resisting the red sauce was my, wrong as it happened, assumption that this was the disgustingly Sweet, standard, bottled Chilli Sauce, which is universally employed. Far from it, an in-house creation, else Celestia’s Chef has found a better source of materials than everyone else. Chilli, Tomato, sharp, most unusual, and not Sweet! The relatively dry Bhaji/Pakora was thus complemented.

Marg now gets to speak:

I chose Assorted Vegetable Crisp expecting something a little different, but three fairly large pieces of Pakora were on my plate. The rolled Pakora was full of onion, potato, peas with cress, tiny seeds of pomegranate, tiny cubes of beetroot and tomato displayed on the side. I enjoyed them and added the red spicy sauce for more moisture.

The  clean plates were removed by the waitress, I proposed serving the Curry at 17.30, a decent gap. Marg said she was already raring to go. Calm.

In the interval, a new member of staff joined the team. He would engage with us for the remainder of our meal. New to Celestia, at this point I gave him the Calling Card to explain who we are, and why we were here, just in case…

At exactly 17.30, two hot plates were brought to the table, the main courses soon followed.

Mushroom Rice has become Hector’s thing in 2025, some outstanding examples are reviewed, particularly in Glasgow’s West End. Sadly, Celestia’s was not in the same league. Again, value for money in Sundries is a common thread throughout Curry-Heute. This portion was hardly commensurate with the price, even allowing for the pukka atmosphere.

The small bowl was almost too hot to handle, a positive. The contents, however, cooled rapidly, even on the hot dinner plate. The Tarka-Onion aside, as a Pulao, there was nothing distinctive in terms of Flavour. The soft Mushrooms, although fresh, disappointed. Firm is so much better. Perhaps Mushrooms grow better in the West?

The Mushroom Rice shared, there wasn’t much on the plate. So, no wastage, unlike many a Euro-Curry experience.

Not the largest, but featuring the genuine Tandoori Texture, the Butter Naan was risen, blistered, puffy, as the Hector seeks. Served in quarters, why? Whole Bread makes much more of an impression, and permits the joy of tearing off strips. As the meal progressed, the Naan quickly disappeared, Marg’s preference for Bread over Rice. Then some Naan miraculously reappeared. Hector’s right to share was recognised, also Marg’s acceptance that she was rapidly filling. Surprisingly, a quarter of the Naan would remain.

Gongora Lamb Mamam

The beauty contest was over, now for the main event. Curry Leaves, part of the mysterious Topping, were quickly absorbed as I decanted. Ten pieces of Meat, of varied size, were arranged over the Rice. This left the Masala, suitably Thick, viscous, blended one assumes, no surplus Oil. The Earthy aroma already had me onside. Some may consider this Curry to be – Soupy, else, this may be how the majority expect Curry to appear.

A new Flavour! The reason why I had chosen this Dish. Earthy indeed, Dry-tasting, sources suggest – Tangy and Sour – is what was to be expected. The Seasoning was remarkable, beyond – brave!

Moderately Spiced – was noted at the start, towards the end, this was revised upwards. From where this extra – kick – originated was not revealed.

The Naan dipped in the Masala was one side of the meal. Here the true intensity of the sauce was revealed. Curry and Rice ran in parallel, the Tenderest of Lamb came into play. The Meat was giving back just enough to earn Hector’s praise. This is why I was here, this is why Curry-Heute is written. The Chef at Celestia has created a blend of Herbs and Spice which has never previously been encountered, and most importantly, it worked.

The waiter approached to ask the customary question.

I’m tasting something new! – I exclaimed.

Apart from the free food, this most certainly had made the journey worthwhile.

I would definitely have this again, however, on a return visit, the equally unique Karahi would have to be explored.

Lamb Karahi

The Toppings here had more of a flourish, was that a whole Chilli hiding beneath a Ginger Strip and what I took to be large-leafed Coriander? At this time, the Hector’s attention was firmly elsewhere.

The Thick Masala had all the signs of being Tomato-based, so certainly not from the same pot as the above. Once more, no peripheral Oil. When a Soupçon crossed the table, I was somewhat taken aback by the difference in Flavour from my own Curry. A major juxtaposition, I explored no further less I spoil my own meal. One key feature did have to be established:

How may pieces of Capsicum?

None.

When Marg did unveil the two whole Green Chillies, she knew the best way of dealing with them. Hopefully, they had already completed their mission.

The Hector shall continue to despair that Mainstream Restaurants insist on serving big blobs of Onion and Capsicum in their so-called – Karahi. None here, a big tick, so the – bell pepper – had been blended in, one surmises. I am fine with that, although the Flavour of the Masala can be impaired. Was that my reaction to my Soupçon? Towards the end, Marg was offering me her last three pieces of Lamb, declined. I believe the Meat content of her Karahi was greater than my Curry. Marg:

My main dish, Lamb Karahi, was served in a fancy pottery dish and we already had very hot plates for our food. I had some Mushroom Rice and added large pieces of lamb and thick sauce. The various textures added to the overwhelming flavour. The meat was very tender and I used my fork to cut them into smaller pieces. The thick masala contained dried green chillies, cardamom and coriander. Overall, the dish was very filling with both rice and some pieces of crispy naan bread. A very enjoyable dish, full of flavour.

I missed the Cardamom, another Whole Spice. In the parameters of Curry-Heute, this certainly promotes Celestia to a higher league, and sets it apart from the – Mainstream. Maybe Lamb on-the-bone at Celestia might be a step too far?

At the end, but a scrap of Naan remained.

Two other couples had arrived, they sat separately at the the far side, near the other window. This was evidently one couples’ first visit to Celestia, I heard them say they had occasionally passed and decided to give it a try. I did see a few people outside study the menu posted at the doorway, maybe one day?

The waiter brought the Dessert / Hot Beverage menu, the waitress came to take an Order. On another day, I would not have walked away from the Wild Berry Cheesecake (£11.95). Marg and I were both of the opinion that we were not here to abuse the hospitality, but review the Curry. The waitress tried further to tempt:

the Gulab Jamun (£10.95) is made here.

I explained that I like to leave – savoury – on the palate. Marg typically has other ideas.

The Cumin Seed, which usually dislodges itself an hour or so after Curry eating, magically appeared before our departure, most unusual. Savoury! Desi!

One day we shall get to meet Mr. Mohammad Abass, now that I have completed my task, I thank him again for his hospitality. Our appreciation, as always, to Scott and Julia of – Hotels PR – who once again made today possible.

2025 Menu

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Hector Cooks: Aloo Gajar Mutter Brinjal Tarkari

A Hector cannot live by Gosht alone, an Interesting Vegetable often makes a Curry. At some point in the last few days, Aloo Gajar Mutter flashed up on a certain social medium. A long time favourite, especially as cooked at Yadgar (Glasgow), today was pencilled in as the ideal time to have a go.

After last night’s Gluten-free, Dairy-free, sans Tomato creation for a house guest, no restrictions, and actually only the second time I have cooked anything for a nearly a month. No restrictions, with leftover Courgette and Aubergine, I decided to go the whole way and add the Brinjal and Tarkari also. Khumbi, I resisted. I wouldn’t even add Mushrooms to the Rice. Five major Vegetables, a first for Hector. However, the Masala requires three more: Onion, Tomato and Garlic. How healthy was this?

No Ginger, no Cinnamon, no Cardamom, no Clove: today, keeping things simple. Heaped teaspoons only of the Spices were added: Cumin Seeds, fried in the hot Oil, Turmeric and Kashmiri Chilli plus Salt, added once the Masala Mash had been created.  One complication: the sliced Aubergine was salted/sweated all afternoon as taught in Israel in the 1980s, when this less than popular Vegetable was first encountered.  This removes the bitterness.

Having finely chopped one and a half Onions, I felt as if I had enough. This would also match the volume of the five fresh Tomatoes.

I gave the Onions, plus a dessert spoon of Garlic Paste, the full twenty minutes to mash in the hot Oil with Cumin Seeds. Having added the Tomatoes and another ten minutes of occasional stirring, Tomato Puree was calling. When I was not attending the karahi, the lid was on, not my standard practise.

With the Salt, Turmeric, Chilli powder stirred in, the Mash was looking good, yet I knew I would soon destroy this glorious Texture when it came time to complete the full cooking of the Vegetables. Adding water, I hate having to add water. In it went, else how would the Vegetables cook?

Aloo Gajar Mutter: chopped Potatoes, Carrots and Peas. As these would take more cooking time than the Courgette and Aubergine, five minutes-plus of cooking here before the grand moment.

Chopped Coriander, Kasoori Methi, Courgette and Aubergine immediately absorbed some of the lake in the karahi, there was hope.

Meanwhile in another room, Marg was starting to become inquisitive. She had previously spotted the Yadgar Samosas defrosting, I’ve had them a while. Marg failed to take in what else was on the plate. The Hector was about to present the full feast.

A pack of six Lamb Chops were bought on my last visit to KRK, these were grilled whilst the Meat Samosas were reheated in the air fryer, eight minutes. Hector rarely serves a meal without Meat, and tonight would not be the exception.

*

*

Meat Samosa

Rejuvenated, not. The pastry went rock hard, so much for all those who insist air-frying is the answer to everything. A bit of soggy microwaving might have been better.

The interior Keema, Potato and Peas were fine, but definitely a let down because of the ruined pastry.

Lamb Chops

These had been marinated before purchase, grilling is all that was required.

Any idiot can chuck meat under a grill – who wrote that?

An extra couple of minutes could have had them cremated, as we both prefer. Still, these turned out beautifully succulent, suitably Spiced, tasty, the best Lamb Chops I have ever eaten at home.

Three each, Marg took one initially, worried that she would be stuffed before the main event. A timeout was agreed. All six Lamb Chops duly disappeared.

I highly recommend, these Lamb Chops, value for money, tempting enough to have me visit Kelvinbridge/Woodlands more often.

I let the Curry sit for the best part of an hour, everything that absorbs could do so, the Vegetables that can give of Flavour, do their work.

Just enough cooked Rice to cover two plates was conveniently to hand. Some homes have – leftover red wine – at Hector’s House, more likely it will be a Rice or a Pasta dish. Marg, who prefers Bread with her Curry, still thought this might be too much Rice.

A bowl of minimal – foliage – was prepared: no Ginger, for once it was not in the Curry, no sliced Green Chillies, ditto.

Aloo Gajar Mutter Brinjal Tarkari

Stirred before serving, any excess liquid was quickly absorbed. Two portions, differing sizes, Hector knows his audience.

The Masala Texture was how I admire it in restaurants: viscous, smooth, looks blended but isn’t. I had managed to reduce it, less excess water than feared. Earlier sampling had suggested a bit of Spicy heat that might be throat catching, this had subsided. Marg would not utter her usual – It’s Spicy!

The Seasoning was spot on, no Salt had been added since the original heaped teaspoon.

The Potatoes, Carrots and Peas had the correct level of firmness, cooked, not hard, not mush. The Courgette and Aubergine, as expected, had cooked towards complete softness. The hoped for range of Textures had been achieved.

The array of Flavours took me aback. Carrots add so much Flavour, as do the Peas. The slightly Sweet Taste from the Carrots must change the dynamic of the Masala. The Courgettes proved to be no more than Ballast, however, the musky/earthy Flavour of the Aubergine was a positive, it may well have absorbed Flavour from the Masala. 

Synergy: everything worked together, this was as good a Curry as I have ever created. The depth of Flavour, range of Textures, Spice and Seasoning, all to my taste, however, the audience will have her say. Marg:

A Samosa for starter, with some interesting Lamb Chops. The pastry was well done and very crunchy, but the filling was full of potato, peas and some meat. Very tasty.

The chops had been marinaded and were full of flavour. The meat was soft and tender and very easy to eat. We had a break before the Vegetable Curry. The aroma had been wafting from the kitchen and I was not sure what to expect.

A small helping of rice and a small dish of Curry was my next challenge. My first mouthful was of firm carrot, full of flavour. The potatoes were soft and fluffy and the sauce was a mixture of Curry tastes. A real blast of flavour accompanied the vegetables and the Curry was very moreish. I thoroughly enjoyed the meal.

*

Clean plates, and two portions left in the karahi. I imagine that a la Curry Cafe, this can only taste better the day after. Time will tell.

And finally – without Ginger, Cinnamon, Cardamom or Clove, for once, this did not taste like a Hector Curry. 

 

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Bradford – Karachi Restaurant – Rick Stein’s Choice, was it – The Right One?

It’s Saturday, Curry-Heute is expected. My 14.00 arrival at Karachi Restaurant (15 Neal St., Bradford BD5 0BX England) would mean a fourth Bradford Curry in forty six hours, in keeping with the spirit of this Blog. One cannot always be here, enjoy Bradford Curry whilst one can. After last night’s midnight Curry at International, one thing would be certain about today: no Curry #3!

A youngish chap greeted me from behind the counter as I entered the near empty restaurant. Hector is not known here. The mature serving chap was hardly engaging, asking for the menu felt a step too much.  In time, further front of shop staff would arrive and he retreated to the kitchen, preparing vegetables, his next chore. This year’s prices had to be established, same menu as last year as it turned out, so inflation at Karachi has been absorbed.

The Rickmeister, aka – The Man from Bradford – had assured me that his Kofta Palak – Meat Ball Spinach (£10.50) was particularly outstanding on Thursday. This has been my go-to Curry when I get to Karachi for many years.

In planning this trip, there was the consideration that whilst I have watched Chapatti John, and maybe others, devour the Rick Stein made famous – Meat Spinach Karahi (£11.50), I have never had this at Karachi. Dr. Stan was also of the opinion that the version shown on the Karachi dedicated page in Curry-Heute looks to be particularly light.

After Handi, Aloo Gosht and last night’s Meat and Ginger Karahi, it was time to add some Saag to my diet. How much Mutton can a man eat? If there’s a tomorrow, Fish. Did man evolve to eat leaves and grass?

Chapattis (£0.50) – were agreed, inclusive of course, the traditional Bradford way.

A jug of water and the token Salad with a splash of Raita were duly presented. Rehydration got underway, I would leave the Salad until later. No cutlery anyway, it only comes with the meal, if at all.

My chap brought the food, no ceremony. The dinner plate would remain unused. The – willow pattern – took me back to my infancy, before I had heard of – Curry.

Proper Chapattis, and once again, I would manage two of three.

Meat Spinach Karahi – as ordered here by Rick Stein

The thick covering of Coriander stood out on top of the mass of Meat and Herb-rich Masala. The peripheral Oil let me convince myself that this Curry was somewhat along the lines of my preferred Spinach in a Masala, not just a mass of Herbs.

The Meat was larger than I have come to expect in this city. Have the butchers stopped cutting it – Bradford-small? Or was this always done in house?

Hot food, an even hotter karahi, take care, Hector. I spooned some Masala on to a valley of Chapatti. The spoon, the only utensil provided.

Antiseptic – this happens on Hector’s palate, and why I never order Dolmades in Hellas. Who wants to eat Vine Leaves anyway? Whether this was totally down to me, or had the Spinach been kept so long it was fermenting, the kitchen may comment should they choose.

Fortunately, this subsided so the Curry took on more of an Earthy feel than a Chemical one. The Seasoning was decidedly – low, the Spice Level a cinch after last night’s – beyond Vindaloo – experience.

Not the greatest of starts.

As pieces of Tomato surfaced, the beginning of another taste dimension. I appear to be over-enjoying Tomatoes of late. Two weeks in Hellas then Italia can do that. I am faced with cooking for a house guest next week who cannot eat Tomatoes, a challenge.

Finally, the Meat, Tender as it should be. For once I have to be neutral about whether it was giving of Spice, but once certainty emerged: Meatballs are better!

Well Seasoned, well-Spiced Kofta surely complement a Saag/Palak way more than straightforward pieces of Meat. I recall the halcyon days at Cafe Salma (Glasgow) when Dr. Stan and Hector would wind up Hassan/Lachen by sharing a Kofta Palak as Dessert. The Village (Glasgow) remains my reliable source for Kofta, and they’ll even add the Anda, if one asks.

So, did Rick Stein order the wrong Curry? The Rickmeister and Hector would say so.

Remember the slivers of Salad? Dessert.

The Bill

£11.50   Cash only.

The Aftermath

My chap had to interrupt his Potato/Onion peeling to take my cash. He may have said little, but was certainly keeping his eye out.

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Bradford – International – A Late Finish

On the return from Huddersfield, the Hector had to show reasoned restraint not to alight at Wakefield. Maybe December will present another opperchancity. Back in Bradford the Münchener Okotoberfestbier was duly tackled.

As the time to leave The Lord Clyde approached, so the munchies had taken hold. Could I face another Curry-Heute? It has been some time since this level of madness has been reported in these pages. Maybe just some Lamb Chops?

International (40-42 Morley Street, Bradford, BD7 1BA) was due to close at 01.00, gone are the days of all night Curry. I arrived at midnight, the waiters were sitting in a group near the door. One sprang into action and would look after me for the duration of my stay. It’s possible we have crossed paths here previously.

Poppadoms were mooted, declined. Back in the days of Khalid and Ali, they would simply have arrived. A giraffe (sic) of chilled water was presented.

What to have? A revamped menu, still no sign of the Shahi Kofta which became a favourite under the old regime. Lots of choice, I was determined not to again have Meat Nawabi Khana (£13.95) which reached – Wow! – status on my last two visits. Fish Karahi (£14.95), but that is pencilled in for Sunday morning. Sunday morning? We’ll see. There it was, something not had here before: Meat and Ginger Karahi (£13.95). Above medium – Spice Level was agreed. I would have been happy to pay for two Chapattis (£1.00), but was reminded that International still provide three Chapattis, two Roti, Plain Rice or Plain Naan as part of the package.

The great Bradford tradition: only International, Kashmir and Karachi restaurants maintain this, so The Rickmeister assures me.

A group of chaps to my left finished their meal and departed, I was the only customer. The staff wiped down surfaces, then were down on the floor cleaning the table supports. Thorough, having failed the hygiene inspection back in 2018, taking no chances.

A hot plate was brought from the kitchen then soon after, the food arrived. Three Chapattis, and as earlier in the day at Kashmir, proper Chapattis, no Wholemeal Flour. Two is my limit. These Chapattis were – hot!

*

*

Meat and Ginger Karahi

The Toppings of Coriander and cooked in Tomato looked oh so familiar. The abundant Meat seemed to be protruding from the karahi, loads. Bradford Curry, I could smell it. This Curry was not about to disappoint. Small cut Meat, tiny Meat, Bradford-small Meat, just enough Masala with traces of peripheral Oil.

That first moment when all is revealed, the sudden blast of Flavour hitting the palate. Methi, The Bradford Curry Taste, here it was, in abundance. Why I was here, why was I here? The Seasoning, right up there, get this right, everything falls into place. The Spice Level felt above medium to start, then kept growing. Vindaloo strength left far behind. Chef had made his mark. I could handle this even the Bullet Chilli which revealed itself. All this heat and yet the Flavours had not been compromised, skill. The Ginger Strips gave their crunch, and more Flavour, there must have been Ginger cooked in also, not dominant, but I was made aware.

Tomato Seeds in the Masala, quality, then there was the pieces of Tomato themselves. These had retained their heat, another explosion in the mouth. Citrus, from where? I love this in a Curry, that which makes a true Desi Korma. Tender to firm, then I realised the Chapattis needed more chewing effort than the Meat. Meat giving of Spice, Flavours, this Curry had it all. Bradford Curry, the – Wow! – attained. This was as good as it gets. And I had nearly ordered Chops.

With the staff dressed to go home, bar my chap, I had to form my own escape plan. Pack what was left? No fridge. Keep eating, another twenty minutes possibly. Not fair. How the gut might feel at 04.00 came to mind. Late night eating, madness. Sense prevailed, stop, abandon the wonder that sat before me. So it goes.

The Bill

£13.95

The Aftermath

Do you need more water?

I was not being rushed out. Having not touched the water initially, now was the time.

04.00, what a thirst.

After their hiatus, International is back. I still wish they opened at lunchtime.

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Bradford – The Kashmir Restaurant – An Early Start

This is going to be a long day. Having checked in at The Lord Clyde where the Münchener Oktoberfestbier was already flowing, Hector the abstemious, headed up the slope to The Kashmir Restaurant (27 Morley St, Bradford BD7 1AG England). As I approached the Morley Street entrance at 12.40, so I saw people sitting in the upstairs restaurant. This early, most unusual. I headed downstairs, darkness, about turn.

Jan was there to greet upstairs, he read my puzzled face.

Downstairs no more.

Now we know.

Five fellow diners were in situ, I sat close to the till and adjacent to two University chaps deep in conversation about rogue students. Education, do I miss it? Consider this: half of the population are of below average intelligence, OK, median.

Jan brought water, the modest Salad and Raita, and the menu. I took my time to study the menu, I had no idea what to have. If I come back on Sunday morning, that will be Fish Karahi (£11.90). Somehow, I unwittingly chose a Kashmir Curry which has not appeared in these pages before – Meat Potato Masala (£10.80), or Aloo Gosht as it is called elsewhere.

Chapattis? – asked Jan.

This was confirmed. Kashmir retains the Bradford tradition of inclusive Bread. Confirmation that we are basically being ripped off at way too many venues. No need to play – The Poppadom Game – here either, they simply arrive, also inclusive.

With two Poppadoms sat before me, I thought I had better make some effort. No sooner had I started when the food arrived.

Three Chapattis, the ones I was brought up on, thin, unobtrusive, and no sign of Wholemeal Flour. As ever, I would manage no more than two.

*

*

*

Meat Potato Masala

There was plenty of Meat on the plate, no need to count. Larger cuts than the Bradford-small I have become used to. Is this no longer the Bradford way? With the skin visible on the Potatoes, I concluded New Potatoes. The non-porous skin would surely restrict the absorption of the Masala. The exposed, cut side would have to do all the work. Pieces of Tomato had been cooked in. All was set.

The Seasoning was decidedly low, the Spice built quickly. The Potatoes were approaching al dente, firm. As expected, they had not had time to absorb the Masala Flavours, a pity. The Tender Meat, was this Beef, was doing the work. The Meat was giving off a dry Spiciness. I write oft of Meat and Masala that are strangers until the point of serving, not the case here. This Meat was totally giving of Flavour.

Flavour? The Bradford Herb-blast was not emanating from either Meat or Masala, instead, just the blend of Spices. A whole Clove and a Coriander Seed were set aside. Whole Spices, a parameter which defines – Desi. The still hot Tomato added another dimension. Lots going on here.

The Curry finished, Jan was for clearing the table. I asked that he leave the Salad, Poppadoms and Raita. Poppadom for Dessert, this worked. Way better than spoiling one’s appetite at the start of a meal. I ate one.

The Bill

£10.80 Cash only.

The Aftermath

I asked Jan if I had eaten Beef or Mutton.

Not, lamb, mutton.

And so for Huddersfield. With major railway works ongoing, the shorter route via Brighouse was a replacement bus. Instead, I found myself changing at Leeds and approaching via Wakefield. Wakefield, I need to get back there, Syhiba Restaurant is overdue another visit. Then there’s Curry in Huddersfield, six years since I had Curry there. The Hector is not ubiquitous.

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Bradford – Des N Pardes – Not a “Bradford Curry” House?

Wilton Street in the heart of Bradford, the first place I ever parked in this city in the mid 1990s, in order to go searching for Curry.

Des N Pardes (Wilton St, Bradford BD5 0AX) opened ten months ago in a building which was once the most basic of Curry Houses, but had lain derelict for some time. Earlier this year, Dr. Stan and The Rickmeister, aka The Man from Bradford, visited Des N Pardes, good things were reported.

The Rickmeister is associated with those who have arranged for proper Münchener Oktoberfestbier to be served in Bradford this weekend. The Hector was not missing out.

At 15.45, Hector Naypals arrived at Des N Pardes, nobody there. I would dine alone. The place is unrecognisable compared to, lets face it, what was a dump of a venue when last here.

*

Greeted as – Boss – throughout my visit, the young chap serving brought the menu, water, then a generous complimentary Salad and Raita. It was a lady who was in the kitchen.

The minimal menu had only four main courses the Hector could consider. Without a dining partner, the kilo of Butt Lamb Karahi (£34.95) will have to wait for another day. The half kilo (£19.95) seemed disproportionately expensive. I asked about Chef’s Daily Special (£11.95) – Keema with Daal Makhani, topped with Egg – enough already. Actually, this almost tempted, I assured the waiter that if my wife was here, she would be having this. Had it not been visit #1, I might have succumbed, but let’s see what their actual Curry is about before going exotic.

From the House Special Handi section of the menu – Lamb Masala (£12.95) accompanied by a Plain Naan (£1.95) became the choice for Curry-Heute.

Whilst I waited, time to consider the ongoing events on the eastern end of the Mediterranean. Two years and two days since the October 7 massacre, finally a ceasefire is in sight. Maybe the beginning of the end of this needless slaughter. Having been to what may become – Palestine – and having traversed the West Bank oft, empirically I have come to know that the majority just want to get on with their lives. Only the proscribed want eternal chaos/destruction – taking the lives of others.

Tomatoes, big slices, fresh and tasty. With the sharp Raita added, quite a treat. The Onions and Cucumber were incidental, and let’s not mention the green.

The main event arrived within fifteen minutes of ordering.

The Naan was quartered, now we know to ask for – whole Bread. Perforated, to prevent it rising, I don’t know why they do this either. Still, Bread too hot to touch, blisters forming, light and fluffy, excellent. Having had nothing to eat since yesterday, I managed three quarters.

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Handi – Lamb Masala

Topped with Ginger Strips, a threat of Coriander and two large pieces of cooked-in Tomato, well presented, and hot food! The Meat appeared to be significantly larger than the customary – Bradford-small. Super-soft at times, tougher at others, one wonders if there are two pots, or maybe just The Big Pot being topped up with fresher Meat. Whatever, the Meat was not giving any Flavour other than its own. Spices had not been absorbed.

The Seasoning was decidedly low, consequently, the Flavours were subdued. No Whole Spices, no Spice a standout other than that which was steadily building the Spice Level. A standard Masala found anywhere across the nation, the Herb-rich Bradford Taste was not present. For a Curry in Bradford, this tasted – unfinished, else, the Chef at Des N Pardes had no intention of creating what makes this city famous. Lahori Cuisine I conclude, not Bradford. I didn’t ask for – Desi style, would this have made a difference?

Did I enjoy the food? Of course, it was Curry, but not why I came to Bradford. There is more on the menu to explore, so a return is likely, especially if I can find a willing partner to share the kilo.

Open daily at 10.00 for Desi Nashta, Des N Pardes becomes an attractive venue when an early start demands an early Curry.

The Bill

£14.90 Paid by bank transfer, cumbersome.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was presented and Curry-Heute outlined.

Des N Pardes becomes the twenty-seventh Bradford Curry House to be reviewed in Curry-Heute.

Two new venues have appeared nearby. Miwan Restaurant next door to Des N Pardes has a Middle Eastern – Afghan menu. Lawi Restaurant now occupies the building where I had my first ever Bradford Curry, a Grill House, no need to go there. 

2025 Menu

 

Posted in Des N Pardes | Comments Off on Bradford – Des N Pardes – Not a “Bradford Curry” House?

Graeme Cooks: Beef Bhuna + Daal

Hector finds himself in Aberdoom,, the land where Indian Bread is charged as if made from gold-dust, c.f. Hector’s Ten Curry Commandments. Despite house prices plummeting, thanks to the Oil Industry being shackled by green politics, restaurants still charge as if they deserve a premium. However, Marg and Hector were once more treated to Graeme’s hospitality and home-cooked Curry.

A Beef Curry was announced, however, I put in a bid for Daal which has featured in these pages previously. Graeme’s Daal is consistently sound; what would turn out to be a Beef Bhuna was cooked to a recipe Graeme has been using for decades.

During the preparation, the Hector kept his nose out of the kitchen. Copious Onions were heard being chopped, it was only when all was in the pot that the – for the record photos – were captured.

Around 19.00, Marg and Hector were invited through – to dine.

Boiled Basmati would form the principal base for Hector’s plate. Poppadoms and Naan had been bought in for the occasion, the former ignored by this commentator. Both Kath and Graeme were of the opinion that the Naan had been over-watered before reheating, the half I took was as good as one can expect. Light and fluffy, no problems here.

Having taken our places, so Marg began to describe our recent Curry outings in both Athena and Roma, and in particular, the Hector’s new dress code. There was much amusement when the said – bib – was produced. Michelin Man perhaps, but all agree, this is practical. 

Daal

Daal is a Dish which the Hector usually only has in a Buffet scenario, unless someone is keen to share a Side of Daal Makhani. There’s a Dish which is overdue another appearance in Curry-Heute. Possibly more than a billion people have Daal daily, some as their staple diet as observed, first hand, in India.

What makes Graeme’s Daal a standout is the thicker consistency – properly chewy – is how he described it. Why is it runny elsewhere? – posed Graeme. To eke it out, was my conclusion.

Pitched at no more than a medium Spice Level, there was a worthy, earthy Flavour. Scooped on to the Naan, this provided a diversity to the meal. For Hector, more Seasoning could have been the only improvement.

Beef Bhuna

The dark, thick Masala is why – Bhuna – has been been applied to this creation. Graeme admitted that he may have reduced it more than planned. With no Whole Spices, Curry-Heute will not recognise this as – Desi – despite being cooked at home. Instead, as smooth Masala with no sign of the known Onion content. Blended? I didn’t ask.

Is there Coconut? – I did ask.

Apparently not, again, down to the reduction, but there was a hint of – smokiness – in there. Despite watching sweat develop on Graeme’s brow, I would describe the Spice Level as no more than – medium-plus. For once, Marg did not emit here – it’s spicy! – cry. Here the Seasoning was closer to a la Hector.

Tender Beef, and after my recent – chewing-to-infinity – experience  at Pak Tikka Shop – Grill House (Athena), a welcome change from Mutton.  Marg:

I really enjoyed the rich flavour of the sauce as well as the tender beef. It was spicy and earthy and I kept going back for more. The daal was tasty and gave moisture to the whole dish. Overall, the meal was excellent.

Three diners had stopped eating before the Hector had cleared his plate. Graeme’s appetite sated, I took more Bhuna, leaving but a few pieces of Meat. In time, the somewhat reticent ladies took care of this. The leftover Daal would live to fight another day.

The Aftermath

Marg mentioned Chai. Kath and Graeme, having been to India recently, have acquired the taste. Graeme was set to work again. Twenty minutes later, the milky tea was produced. As always, Hector passed.

Graeme has asked, more than once, why the countries, cities, Curry Houses in Curry-Heute are not alphabetical.

They are arranged – Geographically – closest to home first, then around Scotland The significant exception: Deutschland being the second, it’s a Curry-Heute thing.

And, Graeme, there is a search box at the top right on every page.

Posted in Home Cooked (by others) | 1 Comment

Brescia – Bombay Tandoory (aka Donar Kebab Hallal) – Punjabi Dhaba (Bhopal Palace menu)

It was in Brescia, back in 2017, where Hector found his first true, and outstanding, Desi Curry in Italia at Bombay Tandoory Ristorante Indiano (Via Solferino, 1, 25122 Brescia BS Lombardia, Italia). Steve joined Hector in Brescia in 2018 for the Premiata Forneria Marconi (PFM) gig, all was well: great show, still great Curry. In the interim years there was an apparent closure then a re-opening at another location – Via dei Mille 9, 25122, Brescia BS.

With a Ryanair flight back from Bergamo on Monday, there was the opperchancity to investigate all things Curry once more in Brescia. This called for Hector Holmes.

Arriving from Roma late afternoon, our hotel just happened to be metres from the original Bombay Tandoory on Via Solferino, branded as Donar Kebab Hallal as it was back in 2017-8, but Onar Kebab Hallal on Google Maps. We walked up the ring road to the reportedly new locus, arriving around 17.00. Bombay Tandoory had gone, replaced by a Sri Lankan restaurant – Caio Broo, who it seems have moved here from the other side of the station.

Next door lies Punjabi Dhaba / Bhopal Palace (Via dei Mille 15/A, 2512 Brescia BS, Italia) which I had already planned to visit on Sunday. Their online menu shows a mean looking Fish Curry. I reckoned – Fish for dinner – should be safe the day before I flew.

As I took the external photo at Punjabi Dhaba, so one of two chaps sitting in the doorway expressed his annoyance. Tough. Walking into this maze of a venue, there was more than a sense of this not being the normal Curry House. Noise, laughter, hysteria, three women having Prosecco through the back.

Between us and them, the counter with Curry on display a la typical Curry Cafe, and a line of others having a Bier, or two.

In the space at the rear, two other ladies sat quietly having Pasta. Another room off, had two diners and the sound of disco music. Here too was a derelict looking bar, and some teenagers, the source of the noise, take your pick. We decided to associate ourselves with the Pasta Ladies and hope the Prosecco Trio would rein it in. Many a Curry House across Europe tries to promote itself as a bar and also a restaurant, I have never seen so many people in an Indian restaurant and not have Curry. 

A chap, Mein Host, brought the menu. This bore little/no resemblance to what I had seen online, no Fish Curry. The cover of the menu said – Bhopal Palace. It didn’t take Hector Holmes too much research to establish that this menu is identical to that of the much grander Bhopal Palace, 32km away in Borgo San Giacomo. They must be (Via) Don Francesco’s brother. Punjabi Dhaba, with Mainstream Chicken Curry dominating, there wasn’t much evidence that this Curry House was serving food associated with the banner over their door.

2025 Bhopal Palace Menu

Marg was hoping for meal #2 later, after Aperitivo, what chance? Vegetable Pakora (€4.00) and a Mango Lassi (€3.00) would do her for the moment. With only one Lamb Curry on the menu, the choice was simple: Lamb Curry (€10.00). Jera Rice (€3.00) could add a bit more to the overall enjoyment.

Marg asked that all food could come simultaneously.

The menu gave options for Spice Level, I decided to take the chance – Vindaloo. Surely this scale is way out of date, who orders – Madras? Principiante – translates as – Beginner. Try using that in a Glasgow Curry House.

During the wait, I secured some photos, the Prosecco Trio ordered more, and to temper their screechy hysteria, some Pasta; the quiet ladies departed. Were we at the right movie? Zam Zam (Roma) was quite an experience earlier in the week, this was something else. I know which atmosphere I prefer.

The arrival of the Mango Lassi was a hoot. A 0.3l Erdinger glass, visually deceptive as a Weizen glass is, but seemingly loads. The Bayerische table covers almost had me asking for Festbier!

Inevitably, the Vegetable Pakora arrived moments later.

Vegetable Pakora

Ten good sized pieces of Pakora, plus a tiddler, these definitely did not come from the Cumbernauld (Scotland) Pakora factory. Their irregular shapes and light appearance made me think that this Pakora might have been once cooked only. Marg thought otherwise. Hector’s Soupçon revealed fresh tasting Pakora with a decent Spice Level and not doughy. Pakora abroad is hit and miss, I would call this a – hit. Marg:

We walked into a very noisy eating establishment, sat in the quieter area, although surrounded by women with fizzy wine. My plate had a generous amount of Vegetable Pakora on a bed of shredded lettuce, it was hot. I enjoyed the crispy pieces of onion, potato and batter. I needed the sweet chilli sauce to dip the larger pieces into It was too dry without it.

I had ordered Mango Lassi as well. It arrived in a large Erdinger glass with ice cubes. Unfortunately, it was quite watery as a result.

Enjoyable food, in a very unusual atmosphere.

Unusual – says Marg, after Zam Zam (Roma)?

In time, Hector’s Curry arrived.

The Jeera Rice was an ample portion, more than I could eat, but not at the usual level of Euro-wastage. Lukewarm, the Rice could have been served a lot hotter.

*

*

Lamb Curry

Lamb on-the-bone, always the preferred way. Ten pieces of Meat sat in a Soupy Masala. A thinly textured Masala displaying no sign of either Onion or Tomato, or Whole Spice. A Masala such as this disappoints, one that could easily have come from a packet of Laziza, or similarSpice Mix. A big Spice Level but moderately Seasoned, the obvious lack of depth of Flavour left little to enthuse about. In time, two Green Cardamom were encountered, I know that these can appear in Packet Curry mixes.

This Curry proved to be all about the Meat. Super-soft, the Lamb was certainly packing Flavour, the Seasoning was to the fore here also. Meat which gives, always a plus. How this Curry had been cooked, I can only imagine, the Meat and Masala had little in common. Meat 1v0 Masala.

The Bill

23.00 (£20.04)

The Aftermath

The Calling Card presented and Curry-Heute outlined, Mein Host asked what I though of his Curry.

The Meat was excellent, the Masala was lacking: Cinnamon, Clove…

And so we departed, leaving the locals to enjoy their party.

Normally, in Curry-Heute, this would be the end of a post, not in Brescia.

Later, as we crossed the road to Hotel Igea, I decided to give Donar Kebab Hallal a closer look, albeit in the dark.

The Bombay Tandoory menu boards were still hanging on the wall outside. I couldn’t let it lie.


Sunday, 12.30, we walked into Donar Kebab Hallal.

Do you sell Indian food?

The young lady behind the counter confirmed they did. Options were few. As on visit #2, I took the Chicken Hearts on display to be Liver, and so chose the alternative: Polo Curry (€7.00), with separate Rice. The Vegetable Rice on display looked to be just the job.

The wonderful Lamb Curry which brought me back to Brescia, and Bombay Tandoory in particular, is no longer on the menu.

For Marg, Desi Nashta! Anda Bhurji (€5.00) makes its first appearance in Curry-Heute. Marg was swithering between this and an omelette. That I was able to confirm that – Anda – is Egg, definitely swung it.

For drinks, Fanta for Hector, a bottle of water for Marg.

At this point I decided to go for it and establish what was going on. Bombay Tandoory, I was told, has been ever-present at this locus, the Via dei Mille shop was theirs, but as established yesterday, is now a Sri Lankan restaurant.

*

*

The only diner present on our arrival soon departed. He was soon replaced by two mature ladies who I thought were just here for the wine  They did order Fish, which of course, came with chips. I was amused to hear the discussion about how chilled they wanted their red wine, not – if. Red Wine at room temperature, there’s another myth that needs debunked.

A glass each, and they were well on their way. Every restaurant, bar and coffee shop I have been to in Brescia in the last twenty hours or so, has been full of a loud women, for some reason, screeching away in Italian.

Anda Bhurji

Scrambled Eggs in Onion and Tomato, something different. No complaints from Marg, she soon devoured this:

Nearly chose an omelette, but decided to try Anda Bhurji. When it arrived it was lovely and hot, full of flavour. The scrambled egg had onion, tomato, cheese and coriander. It was very salty and very tasty.

Karrah!

Vegetable Rice

Peas and diced Carrots were the Vegetables mixed through the Rice which had been suitably Spiced. Well Seasoned, this was a highly flavoured Rice. As ever the quantity would defeat me, just.

Polo Curry

Seven small-ish pieces of Chicken, served on-the-bone, sat in an Oily Shorva. After yesterday’s dubious Masala at Punjabi Dhaba, the Hector was back on more familiar ground. This was a proper Shorva, but sadly, having ordered the Rice, it soon disappeared.

The alternative, dipping Bread would have overcome this, too late. The positive outcome: the Tasty Rice became even tastier.

Marg took a Soupçon and pronounced – Cloves!

That I was not getting, Cumin perhaps.

As for the Chicken, it did all it could.

The Bill

20.00 (£17.37)

The Aftermath

I showed photos of the staff from previous visits, these chaps were known but nothing more was being given away.

Google’s pathetic – Onar Kebab Hallal – was acknowledged, they seemed unaware that this could be fixed. I think I may have managed it, however, Google have now relocated Bombay Tandoory from its Via dei Mille locus to metres from here, and have  declared it closed.

It’s just as well there’s a well known and reliable Curry Blog with a determined author. 

After an afternoon at Lago d’Iseo, we retired to watch The Famous draw at Falkirk. It was clear there would be repercussions, just how quickly matters developed was not really a surprise, it had been coming for 123 days.

 

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Roma – Zam Zam Restaurant – More Desi Curry in Rome!

Zam Zam Restaurant (Via Casilina, 493, 00177 Roma RM, Italia) is only the eighth Roman Curry House to feature in Curry-Heute, and four of those have gone. Returning once more to Asian Restaurant at the foot of Trastevere would have been the easy option. Instead, Marg and Hector embarked on the trek along Via Casilina, to the east of the city, well away from any tourists.  Alight at Torpignattara.

This involved picking up the rickety Roma Giardinetti. There cannot be an older tram running along the streets of Roma, an experience in its own right.

There is a cluster of Curry Cafes around Zam Zam, the motherlode of Desi Curry in Roma has finally been identified. Orientale Ristorante, next door to Zam Zam sells Indian Fayre, they had maybe six customers.

Zam Zam proudly promotes itself as – Pakistani, each of the five tables were occupied. It was only after we squeezed ourselves on to a table at the door, with another diner in situ, that we spotted the seating out the back. Too late, from here we could survey all, and be seen.

We did stand out somewhat, a pair of caspar milquetoasts in a decidedly ethnic eatery. Two young chaps were behind the counter. One, Shoaib, invited us up to the counter. The only version of a menu was the iconic artwork on the walls. In the true style of a Desi Curry Cafe, the trays were on display, I could see Lamb on-the-bone.

Karahi Gosht? – I asked, knowing that the universal language of Curry should announce ourselves as not being random passers by.

Mutton or Beef? – was the reply.

Having tackled the Beef Karahi at Pak Tikka Shop & Grill in Athena, a few days back, the Hector was taking no chances.

One Naan – I said, holding up one finger, politely.

Marg surveyed the food on display. Daal was her first consideration, then she spotted  Keema with what we took to be Daal, but then realised it was Chana Keema, different.

Roti? – appeared to draw an expression of recognition. One please.

Returning to our seats, our fellow diner may have accelerated the eating of his lunch. He finished the main course but left much of what had been served on a plastic Thali tray, and half a Naan. Who leaves half a Naan?

A water jug was on the table already. As we emptied this, so the other chap took it away for replenishment, and brought another tree of glasses to the table. We were being well looked after, our presence in the sea of men, no longer a distraction. Not even when the Hector dressed for dinner.

When the food was brought on a large tray, we were taken aback by the array. Two ample portions of Curry, two plates of what we assumed were – Dips, and four Naan.

Four Naan, two Naan each, I’ve been at this movie before, last week.

Round, ample, and served whole, these were heading towards the perfect Naan. A bit pale perhaps, but they had risen, displayed the start of blisters, light and fluffy, a given. Still, we would abandon two.

Raita, I assumed. On spooning some on to her plate, I noted there was way more happening here. Dahi Bhalla! I’ve had this at Yadgar (Glasgow). Lentils in Yoghurt with a Chat topping, much tastier than a Raita, a treat.

As for the other yellow, viscous – Dip, it couldn’t be … Marg did the finger test, Mango Lassi! But a Soupçon, when carefully poured into fresh glasses, Dessert, excellent. With all this going on, the Curry could only be wonderful.

Karahi Gosht

I didn’t count the Meat, this seemed incidental, it was the initial appearance that had me won already. A Thick, Minimal Masala, Tomato Seeds visible, this was a Desi Karahi.

Five days without Curry, five days of trying to survive on traditional Greek Cuisine and Italian Pasta, the taste-buds have been well looked after, but here, now, this Karahi, was a shock to the system.

Expletive deleted – Wow!

The blast of Flavour was oh so powerful. The wheels in Hector’s brain whirred: Cinnamon, no, Clove, no, Cumin! This Spice has certainly not featured in anything had in the last few days. A piece of Green Chilli and some Ginger Strips had been cooked in. No Whole Spices, other than these I suppose, but the occasional bone splinter had me take care.

The Mutton, there was so much happening in my mouth, I had overlooked taking notes here. Super-soft, rectified. No Sucky Bones, one cannot expect the more expensive cuts of Meat, no Offal. The combined Flavours of the Meat and the Masala was pleasure in the extreme. The Spice Level was not a challenge, but was noticeable. The Seasoning was right on the button, it had to be, nothing was going to spoil this Curry.

Yet, it was time to experiment. I too added a couple of spoons of the Dahi Bhalla to the side of my Curry plate. This added further Creaminess, a varied Texture.

The Hector was in the zone, fun in the extreme. And unlike an American sitcom, I have not telegraphed the joke. The bib had to be wiped. Today’s shirt may be blue, The Famous play later, but Marg has had enough of removing Turmeric stains from my light coloured t-shirts. The illusion of collar & tie may well become a constant feature in Curry-Heute.

Chana Keema

Mince so dark, it was surely not Chicken. The quantity of Chickpeas was sufficient to have their presence known: this was not a Vegetable Curry. The Mince was moist, not to excess, an Oily residue was collecting around the periphery of the platter.

Marg appeared to be having fun also.

A small cafe that was busy. We both squeezed in a table next to the door to join a single customer already eating. (looks as if we were at the same place) Hector asked for Lamb Karahi (no he didn’t) and I saw the Daal tray, but noticed Keema with Chickpeas next to it. I chose the Keema with a Roti.

When the tray arrived with our food, we had a good helping of Dahi Bhalla and a dish of Lassi.

My own dish had plenty flavour with a good spice level. I noticed very small pieces of red chillies, coriander and peppercorns within the sauce. A rich, oily base, also present.

A basket of four Naans arrived, they obviously came with the meal. Keema is my favourite Curry dish, and the rich meat was complemented by the chickpeas. I added the Dahi Bhalla to my plate and dipped the Naan in the Lassi. (why?)

Hector then poured the Lassi into two glasses, and I enjoyed this after I had eaten all of the Keema. An interesting meal, very enjoyable.

I reckoned everyone also received a cup of Chai. Unfortunately we were leaving at this stage.

*

*

Whether Zam Zam is actually open 24/7, as is written on the wall, I’ll let someone else investigate. Cash or Card? Everyone was paying – Cash, and Marg had already spotted how little. I took €20.00 up to the counter.

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The Bill

10.00 A meal for two, a substantial meal for two. This must set a new record. And for the record: Marg bought me lunch.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card issued, I trawled through all the photos in the Yadgar (Glasgow) page, Dahi Bhalley features, and of course, every other Punjabi/Pakistani menu item.

Shoabib was very compliant, he stood back such that I could secure an even better photo of the Fayre. I went out back and managed not to disturb the other diners as I captured the setting of the outside seating area.

And so The Famous lost again to a lesser team, and in Europe, where we tend to shine. That could not ruin my day, especially when preparing this review I discovered that directly across the tramway from Zam Zam is Rasai Indian Restaurant, and they serve Mutton (Desi) Korma. Next time in Roma. To ensure this we have to go to Trevi Fountain. 

Does everyone know the story of how Sammy Cahn came to write – Three Coins in a Fountain? 

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Athena – Pak Tikka Shop – Grill House – Beef Karahi Day

It has been two years since the Hector last ate at Pak Tikka Shop – Grill House (Sapfous 5, Athina Hellas105 53), the Karahi Gosht on that day reached – wow! – status. Allowing for the Dishes I am never going to try, Beef Karahi (€7.00) remained a glaring omission in my coverage of this house. But then, I was somewhat obsessing on securing Kofta Anda on previous visits. Beef Curry does not appear often in these pages, one memorable version was served around the corner from here five years ago. I miss Taste of India (see below).

Marg and Hector arrived at 13.45 this afternoon, a good time to find the place empty. It soon filled up as people returned from Friday Prayers. Prices for main courses have increased by €1.00 since my last visit. On asking for one Naan, our waiter, who spoke excellent English, reminded me that each main comes with two Naan. Apparently I was having two, regardless.

I have long campaigned for honourable pricing of Bread, particularly in UK Curry Houses. How many charge the equivalent of €7.00 for two Naan, never mind the Curry?

On the five minute walk up from Iroon Square (Psyri), Marg said she would not be having Curry, or anything at all. On taking her seat, this changed to – I’ll have a Samosa (€1.00). This quickly became two, and then there’s the matter of the Raita and Salad which always appears along with bottles of chilled water.

The three chaps working hard in the open kitchen, soon had the Order ready. Fast food. With the mains on display, it’s just a matter of a reheat.

The pair of Naan looked so inviting. Served whole, pale but risen with big blisters, this hot Bread is a delight. Soft, fluffy, I wish I could accommodate more, that just ain’t going to happen.

I managed less than one.

*

Beef Karahi

Two things immediately stood out: the Meat was boneless, and there was a lot of it. Eighteen pieces of meat, no tiddlers, this was probably more Meat than I would tackle when sharing a kilo of Karahi Gosht, on-the-bone.

Tomato Seeds shrouded the Meat. The thin, dark Masala was spectacularly – sharp. It is not often that a Masala hits the back of the throat so quickly. Oily, Shorva-esque, there was a decidedly big – kick. This was unexpected, Pak Tikka Shop distinguish themselves from nearby Pak Taka Tak by not serving such Spicy Curry. Next year back to the sister shop.

The Beef was Tender in parts, chewy in others. Two pieces had to be abandoned, I would still be chewing them next Friday lunchtime. At these prices, nobody is going to say anything negative, one cannot expect Sirloin.

There were no pronounced Spices that I could detect, though Marg’s Soupçon had her announce – Cinnamon. The Beef was giving off its Spicy Flavours initially, but as one chewed, so these dissipated. With its dark appearance this Beef Karahi may have resembled a Beef Stew, this was way more.

Vegetable Samosa

Marg has been known to have one only, not today. Hot – was an early declaration, satisfying after her disappointment of two days back at Shinwari Grill. By the time the Salad and Raita were added to her plate, Marg had a voluminous lunch. Marg could eat Salad for Scotland, especially a Greek Salad. Should she eat Salad for Hellas? Marg:

I decided on two Vegetable Samosas. The Salad had already arrived with the Raita. I added the Salad to my plate. The Samosa was hot and was full of flavoured potato with turmeric. A herb was also present. I thoroughly enjoyed the hot Samosa and it combined well with the fresh salad of large chunks of tomato, cucumber with onion and lettuce.

An enjoyable lunch.

The Bill

10.00 (£8.73)    Doug, you had better believe it!

The Aftermath

Our waiter was busy as we departed, there was no point engaging with the sullen chap who deals with payment, I have tried. A chap in all his finery was greeting other – dignitaries – as they arrived. I must remember his face.

At the top of the street, the rear of the building on Menandrou was covered in scaffolding. The north side houses Pak Taka Tak and the former Taste of India. Something big may be happening here. Excavations have revealed another piece of history. Time will tell if the powers that be make a feature of this.

Taste of India, anyone who has watched the Israeli TV series – Tehran – should look out for this restaurant back in its heyday.

Posted in Pak Tikka Shop - Grill House | Comments Off on Athena – Pak Tikka Shop – Grill House – Beef Karahi Day