Crawley – Balti BLVD – Kashmiri Cuisine

Since my last visit to Crawley three months ago, two new Curry Houses have opened, both on the High Street. Hector had been installed at Schloss Clive and Maggie less than hour when the menu for Balti BLVD (36 High Street, Crawley RH10 1BW England) was presented. Clive had recently fetched this and had advised that – my friend who does a Curry Blog is coming next week.

Advance notice then.

Suddenly, the three of us were heading into town, arriving at the empty Balti BLVD at 15.25. A young chap, I shall henceforth refer to as – Son – let us choose our table. The now familiar menu was presented. We were here because Lamb Karahi (£23.99 / £38.99) was being served by the kilo, a first for Crawley and a major departure from all recent additions to the Crawley Curry scene which have tended towards South Indian / Sri Lankan. It is thirteen years since the beginning and end of Desi Grill & Karahi House, a Punjabi Curry House to rival the still excellent Downsman. The latter is in Southgate, Clive and Maggie have relocated to Northgate, this makes the High Street all the more attractive.

The kilo a given, accompaniments were agreed between us: Butter Naan (£1.49) for Hector, Garlic Naan (£1.99) for Clive, White Rice (£3.99) for Maggie. Sensible Bread pricing, disproportionate compared to the Rice, but then we hadn’t seen the portion size. Who has Rice with Karahi?

Son came to take the Order and then informed us that it was Chef’s day off, no Karahi, no Naan. Roti, despite not being on the menu, he could do. We were directed towards the Biryani section of the menu, not why we were here.

The menu at Balti BLVD is not extensive, three Lamb options, today, possibly two. The description for Lamb Qorma (£11.99) suggested the possibility of the much sought after Desi Korma, no Cream or Coconut here. Son was on board with my deduction. Clive was considering Achari Lamb (£12.99) when Son suggested that maybe his Mother would cook for us.

After a few minutes he returned to announce that Mother would cook the Lamb Karahi. Medium Spice was agreed. Maggie always worries that it could be too much despite my repeated assurances – nobody is going to serve a kilo at a Spice Level that people cannot eat.

Lamb Karahi would take twenty minutes. I assured Son that if it took any less, I would not be impressed. Two Roti and one White Rice would accompany. A jug of non-chilled tap water was provided. We settled down for the wait.

A young lady appeared. No, Clive, that is most certainly not – Mother.

Charming Daughter engaged us in conversation. Balti BLVD has only been opened for some three weeks. The family originate from Kashmir, it is food from that region they are focusing on. For the record, Balti is not on the menu at Balti BLVD.

Once more I mentioned the Lamb Qorma, Daughter confirmed it would be as the Hector seeks, a Desi Korma, no Coconut. Daughter related how she had to question the veracity of a Butter Chicken she recently ordered, it was in the now accepted British style, not how this Curry began life in the Indian subcontinent. Her dismissal of the excessive use of Onions – too sweet – did intrigue.

Daughter brought us another jug of tap water, this time with much appreciated ice. It’s quite warm outside today, a moderate 29ºC. This was followed by a Salad and a Spicy Dip.

The board outside advertises an 09.00 opening to serve Coffee & Croissant (£4.99). The window also had a sign advertising for more staff. I hope they are successful in their recruitment. I have seen in Glasgow what happens when a family tries to run a shop with such extensive hours. Something has to give.

Why no Desi Nashta? Maybe Crawley isn’t ready.

Daughter brought the food. The Roti had been made from Wholemeal Flour, something the Hector is currently trying to avoid. Fortunately, they were thin and so would not dominate the Flavours from the Karahi. Maggie tends to avoid Bread but only requires a small amount of Rice. Rather than see two thirds wasted, we all took some.

Karahi with Rice, who does that?

Lamb Karahi

A sprinkling of Coriander lay atop the Meat and Masala, no Ginger Strips or sliced Bullet Chilies. Tomato stood out, so minimal, if any, Onion had been employed in its creation. Thin, Shorva-esque, once the Meat was removed, there was quite an Oily residue on the base of the karahi. This was markedly different from the Punjabi Masala I was hoping for, this Karahi was in the – Charsi – style.

Maggie divvied out the Meat, easily enough for three. With Salad and some Rice on the plate, quite a departure from the norm.

The lack of Seasoning was apparent from the start. There was no sense of anything Chilli-like, and so the Spice Level was also not demanding. This Karahi took me back a couple of years to Kulba Kabul (Gent) in terms of appearance, but that Afghani Karahi was well Seasoned.

The Lamb was Tasty and Tender, latterly, Clive and Maggie would give conflicting reports. It was Maggie who first encountered Kidney. The occasional fatty pieces gave off a powerful Mutton Flavour. Both Sucky Bones and Ribs were encountered, so a familiar cut of Lamb.

The final pieces of Meat at the base of the karahi had sat a bit longer in the Oily Shorva, way more Flavour down here. There was even a wee tingle on Hector’s lips.

Maggie – The lamb was tender, fell off the bone. The food was completely non-processed, only the ingredients that were required. Friendly staff. Definitely worth a look, they are in the end of the town where people do not congregate, quiet, and one can park outside.

Clive – It wasn’t the tenderest of lamb, but forgiven. It was cooked at short notice, especially for us.

The karahi was empty, wiped clean. Only but a scrap of Roti remained.

As Daughter cleared the table, so Maggie admitted that next time she would ask for more Spice. I had to mention the Seasoning, or lack thereof. I asked Daughter if she was familiar with the term – Karrah – the Salt brings out the Flavour of everything else, apparently not.

We were not finished. Three small portions of Zarda, Sweet Rice with Nuts, were presented. Clive and Maggie devoured theirs, the Hector had half. After all, if there was room for Dessert, there was room for more Curry.

The Bill

£48.40 The price of the Roti (£1.00) was now established. We were also charged for the Salad (£2.50) and Dip (£1.00) even though these had been presented at the table.

The Aftermath

We had to meet Mother-the-Chef. We also needed a name, and so Shaheen was summoned from the kitchen. The Curry-Heute website was revealed, and our collective travels to India and Sri Lanka mentioned.

The Desi Korma had to be mentioned once more. If they truly serve this in the classic style, then the Hector will be making a beeline to Balti BLVD on every visit to Crawley. But then, Clive and Maggie wasted no time in getting me here today.

Update : August 15, three days later

Dr. Stan managed a visit to Balti BLVD, and as per my suggestion, ordered the Lamb Qorma. 

That Dr. Stan told me is a start, photographing his own dinner was, for him, quite an abberration.

The Masala looks to be authentic Desi Korma, Lamb on-the-bone, as it should be. Dr, Stan did not register – Citrus – but did offer:

Very tasty, tender lamb that fell off the bone and well spiced. 

Hector will be back, soonest.

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Glasgow – Chimes of India – Never Disappoints

Hector has his favourite places, locally these are well recorded in Glasgow’s Top Rated. Chimes of India (914-916 Sauchiehall Street, Finnieston, Glasgow G3 7 TF) was first visited in February 2024, their Desi Lamb (£12.95) served on-the-bone, was immediately recognised as outstanding. Boneless – is available for those who prefer, however, Curry-Heute will always champion any Curry served – on-the-bone.

Well, maybe not with certain Fish.

It was just after 14.00 when Hector arrived at Chimes of India. Why the bus stop directly outside the premises is currently not in use is unknown. The almost completed construction across the street, and temporary traffic lights, have led to congestion here in recent times, so what now?

Chef Sharma greeted as I took the small corner seat adjacent to my usual spot. The waitress spontaneously brought Complimentary Poppadoms and Spiced Onions, declined. Why so many venues are still charging a small fortune for these remains an ongoing issue.

You don’t like Poppadoms? – asked Sharma.

There are better things to eat.

I was here for the Curry and there was no need to fill up on these, the gesture was appreciated.

Mushrooms (Rice) (£3.90) would accompany the Curry. Extra Desi – was asked for, you never know, Chef might add even more magic.

Sharma knows how I like it.

Copious chilled tap water completed the Order.

A young solo diner was finishing his meal as I entered. Soon thereafter, two couples took the table adjacent to my own. The glass partition, a remnant of you know what, still serves a purpose. Bottles of wine, Starters, main courses, it was good to see the Chimes‘ coffers being filled. Evidently regulars, hopefully a sign of things to come.

The Mushroom Rice at Chimes of India has been celebrated oft in these pages, the perfect accompaniment to their Curry. Fresh Mushrooms aplenty, full of Flavour, powerful enough to be tasted through the Masala, therefore adding Diversity.

Look at the plateful. I’ll take the reader back to last Saturday at Little Curry House where I was charged marginally more for about half the volume of Mushroom Rice served today at Chimes. On a different medium I did challenge this.

We are competitively priced compared to other restaurants within the city – was their reply. Gaslighting, Curry-Heute has established otherwise.

Today’s portion at Chimes was such I had to leave more than a few grains.

Desi Lamb on-the-bone

Curry, classic Curry. Topped with Ginger Strips and no more than a threat of Coriander, the large pieces of Lamb stood out in the Masala. On decanting, the Meat count easily reached double figures, not every piece on-the-bone. Plenty of eating here.

The Masala, well that’s what makes the Curry, oozed quality. The rich, brown colour, the oily tint, the flecks, a blended delight.

A Curry Leaf, whole Clove and two Green Chillies would be unearthed as I made progress through this delight.

This was authentic Desi Curry.

The Spice was immediately noticeable, far from silly, I chose not to have the second Chilli. Enough already. The Seasoning was a tad below the Hector idyll, still sufficient to let the Masala Flavours emerge.

The Mushrooms may have been responsible for the Earthy Flavour hitting the palate, on top of this, the Flavours of a truly old-fashioned Curry. Those of us who have been around for a few decades would be totally at home with this.

Soft-firm Meat, easily separated from the Bones, initially I thought I had Chops, alas not. The almost l-shaped bones remain an unknown cut.

The flecks suggested the addition of Yoghurt to the Masala, a slight Creaminess, well within acceptable parameters, befitting even of a Karahi.

This was comfort eating. How have four months been allowed to pass since I was last here? Curry & Rice, as good as it gets.

As the waitress cleared the table, an apology for not clearing the plate, the Hector proferred:

Now you know see why I didn’t have the Poppadoms.

The Bill

£16.85

The Aftermath

Chef Sharma asked from behind the counter:

Did you enjoy the Desi?

Always, it’s why I come here.

And hopefully more will follow. As it happens, I met an FP this afternoon, he and others, were heading to Chimes of India this very evening.

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Glasgow – Little Curry House – Little Portions, Lots of Confusion

Curry in Partick was today’s objective, however, Little Curry House (41 Byres Road, Glasgow G11 5RG) became the fallback. The ongoing project of exploring the menu at the impressive, and long overlooked Curry Pot across the junction, was the intended venue. Despite their advertised opening times, Simrat, Mein Host, was not ready for business at 13.45, Hector could not wait the requested fifteen minutes.

Marg and Hector passed Little Curry House a few weeks back and studied the menu outside the now extended premises. Gone is the reliance on the poky downstairs seating area and mezzanine, though these could still provide an overflow. Instead the acquisition of the adjacent unit has provided a more spacious and brighter dining area. Business must be good to justify the investment.

Today was Hector’s first visit to Little Curry House in five years. It was also Visit #5 which can take on a special significance in Curry-Heute. It is some ten years since the Wee Curry Shop, part of the Mother India chain, was rebranded as Little Curry House. During Lockdown, Ginger Garlic, a discrete operation, was launched from the same kitchen, offering delivery to all – G – postcodes. That made great business sense.

We tried it once.

The waiter led me through the original doorway to the new dining area. A couple were sat at the window table, live decoration. I was offered a choice of any small table to the rear. Despite sitting as far as possible from my fellow diners, I heard every word of their conversation. The chap considered himself an expert of World affairs, why he had to wait for this meal to impart his knowledge to the suffering wife, well, who knows?

Better than weans, more entertaining.

The Express Lunch Menu (£11.95) was already on the table. With only one Lamb Curry here, and that being Lamb Karahi (£1.95 supplement), almost tempting. However – lamb cooked in a traditional pepper sauce – was never going to entice the Hector. Whose – tradition – is a – pepper sauce? Not one that is recognised in these pages.  Exactly what type of – pepper?

I asked for the Main Menu. Much better, way more options. Having read this side of the menu only, a key piece of information was not taken on board.

Knowing how difficult it is to secure a worthy Fish Curry in Glasgow, I decided to take the chance. Machi Masala (£9.40) and Mushroom Rice (£4.00) became the Order.

*

A glass of chilled tap water was secured. Bier was never going to be part of this meal, but I did note the outrageous price (£4.25) for a half pint of draught Bier.

The waiter suggested a Poppadom (£1.20), no thanks. And with Spiced Onions, Mango Chutney and Mixed Pickles at £1.95 each, I was not being taken for a mug. Those who choose to do so, have my permission, but please, not in my company.

New diners chose to sit outside. To this commentator, dining alfresco in Glasgow feels a bit ex loco: Trastevere, yes, Byres Road, no. So it goes.

The waiter brought a heated plate, a side plate. I was to eat my Curry and Rice from this? Even when the food arrived, the penny didn’t drop. And given the price of the Rice portion, why would it?

£4.00 is a fairly standard charge these days for Mushroom Rice. Too often I complain about the outrageous volume of (inclusive) Rice served, especially in Europe. Today I have to quote the opening lyric of the first track on the eponymous album by Black Sabbath:

What is this that stands before me?

The Rice barely covered the side plate, it was also a case of – spot the Mushroom.

In terms of Flavour it wasn’t giving off much either.

Machi Masala

The contents of the small bowl looked familiar. The same colour and consistency in the Masala as has evolved at nearby Mother India’s Cafe. There, I prefer how it used to be.

I arranged the three chunks of Battered Fish over the minimal Mushroom Rice. Three pieces, was I in Aberdoom?

The waiter asked me for a comment, I hadn’t even started eating. He gave me a moment and then asked once more.

It’s a bit small.

It’s a tapas portion.

I didn’t ask for tapas.

He made an apology with reference to the Express Menu. I assumed he meant the Lunchtime Menu on which nothing I ordered was to be found. I studied my photos of the menu from which I had actually chosen: Evening Tapas Menu.

Not another one. How many more Tapas Restaurants does Glasgow need? This is not how Little Curry House sold Curry previously. This is not how the Hector wants his Curry. Thursday’s mammoth portion at Kebab Mahal (Edinburgh) now seemed a lifetime ago. I hadn’t thought, It certainly took a long time to twigg.

White Fish, possibly Haddock, spiced only on the exterior. Hector’s ongoing argument re Chicken Curry comes home to roost. It did taste – Fishy – a key feature in a Fish Curry that too often is not realised.

The lack of Seasoning in the Curry, as served at Little Curry House, has been an ongoing criticism in these pages. Today, the Seasoning was way more pronounced, consequently, the full Flavours of what sat before me were revealed. The Spice Level was moderately pitched, enough to take note of its presence, never gong to challenge.

The Flavours, I recognised. The same tang as is the feature of Machi Masala at Mother India’s Cafe was present. Added to this, an almost Euro Curry Flavour was emanating from the Masala, not welcome at all. The first time I had Machi Masala at this venue, the dreaded Capsicum was found in the mix. There was a definite sense of it today, confirmed when a solitary piece was set aside.

A mild Achari Fish finally came to mind, the tanginess dominating.

I was finished in no time at all, it seemed. Pleasant enough not the Fish Curry I seek in this city. To quote another lyric, this time by an Irish band:

I still haven’t found what I’m looking for.

OK, I’ll blow my own trumpet, the recipe for Machi Masala posted above in Hector’s Curry Recipes gives way more satisfying results than too many a restaurant.

The Bill

£13.40 … for not very much food.

The Aftermath

A mature chap in a turban cleared the table at the far end of the room. The owner I was told. I studied the chaps in the open kitchen as I departed, they bore no resemblance to the chaps who went out of their way to introduce themselves to me back in Visit #1. The waiter insisted Little Curry House has not changed hands.

Visit #5, Little Curry House will not be added to Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses or Glasgow’s Top Rated. I note that full portions are available in the Takeaway menu, so why not in the restaurant? Then, I may consider a return.

I still miss Mrs. Majhu’s. 

Express Lunch Menu 

Evening Tapas Menu

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Edinburgh – Kebab Mahal – The Man From Bradford Says – Yes!

The Rickmeister, aka The Man from Bradford, set the challenge of choosing the venue for our first ever Curry together in Edinburgh. The choice was simple: Kebab Mahal (7 Nicolson Square, Edinburgh EH8 9BH) is the closest thing Edinburgh has to offer which resembles both the Curry Cafes of Glasgow’s Southside and of course the Curry Houses of Bradford which we have visited most. Dr. Stan makes an appearance today also, he knows the score.

Arriving at Kebab Mahal at 14.30, all but one of the tables were occupied, soon all would be. It is the day before the start of the Edinburgh Festival, an entertainment group from the USA took up two tables near the door. Mr. Khan, Mein Host, acknowledged me as I entered, it is some three years since I last set foot in these premises. Monty’s has gone, the only pub in Edinburgh, so why come through? Part of today’s mission was to establish otherwise.

By chance rather than design, today we would add three Dishes to the coverage of Kebab Mahal, i.e. not seen previously in Curry-Heute. Aloo Ghoust (£11.95) for Hector, Sag Ghoust (£11.95) for Dr. Stan, and Kofta Curry (£13.95) for Ricky.

Ricky was impressed that Kofta was on the menu, but was convinced they wouldn’t have it. His prediction became true, in part.

Dr. Stan mooted Rice, I suggest we share Vegetable Pilau (£3.95), one Chapati (£1.55) as back up. For Ricky, Tandoori Naan (£2.95).

Mr. Khan himself took the Order after Ricky began to believe we would have to go up to the counter. I did advise that if drinks were required, it is a matter of help yourself from the fridge. Dr. Stan took a Rubicon, no other drinks were consumed, though a jug of tap water was available, if one insisted. At Kebab Mahal they do not go out of their way to put liquid on the table. The price of the can was unknown at the point of ordering and remained so.

A rather loud regular was keen on engaging all around. That he had been coming here since the early 1990s was relayed to all, but mainly directed towards Mein Host whom he addressed as Mr. Khan throughout. The actors were entertained. The weans in the far corner daren’t utter a word. A strange atmosphere, but Ricky loved my choice of venue.

The Vegetable Pilau, as expected, was enough to share. Featuring Peas, Carrots, Green Beans and Sweetcorn, the required Diversity was present.

The Chapatti was made from Wholemeal Flour, consequently I had but a scrap. Dr. Stan soon discovered we didn’t really need Bread such was the volume of the Curry.

The Tandoori Naan was an instant winner, served whole, huge, teardrop shaped, risen, puffy, every box ticked. Note to self: order the Naan!

Aloo Ghoust

Technically, the wrong Masala, a traditional Aloo Gosht should be served in a Shorva, however the House Blended Masala is what I was expecting. That is how it is. I arranged ten large pieces of Lamb over the Rice, then half as many bits of Potato.

As ever, I retained some for the end game, to revitalise whatever Rice could be left over. This was a lot of Curry for the £.

A lack of Seasoning has been the recurring criticism on my previous nine visits to Kebab Mahal, today, all was well. Chef may well have changed in the intervening years, this Curry was much more a la Hector. The Spice Level was as it should be, sufficient, not demanding. The basics gotten right, all was set for an enjoyable meal.

Beautifully Tender Meat, only but a trace of sinew encountered, this was quality. Some pieces of Lamb suggested absorption of the Spice, a parameter verified when I tackled the Potato. Clearly, this had just been added and so the magic absorption that an Aloo Gosht on display would have acquired, was not present. Still, the light and fluffy Potato was adding further Diversity, and why I chose this over the Lamb Mushroom Curry (£11.95).

From somewhere, a slight Sweetness was manifesting itself, I’ll always nominate the Carrots when this is so. Otherwise, this was a worthy Curry, streets ahead of what is served in the Mainstream venues which prevail.

Kofta Curry

Why this was £2.00 dearer, than the other Dishes on the menu, is a mystery compounded when Ricky saw a lesser price quoted in the window.

The skewer holes, and linear nature of the solids, confirmed that this was not a Kofta Curry per se. Seekh Kebab had been used, not Meatballs. It happens. The Masala was identical to that seen in the Aloo Gosht. Again, a Punjabi Shorva would have been more authentic.

It’s alright, not what I was expecting – was an early comment by Rick.

So, how had this been cooked? Seekh Kebab would normally be grilled, we saw little evidence for that. Meatballs could be baked then added to a Masala, or partly cooked therein. One of these, presumably. That Ricky was enjoying his Curry was made clear.

The Rickmeister managed an impressive portion of his Naan, he had a lot of Curry to get through. He liked the food, he liked the venue, a proper place.

Sag Ghoust

This was Dr. Stan’s second Palak Gosht in eighteen hours. The Hector did well not become involved last night. A victory in Europe by The Famous had to be celebrated otherwise.

The volume of Curry impressed, the Thick, Dry, Herb-rich Masala Mash, exactly what the doctor ordered. Sorry. However, not the way the Hector desires his Spinach Curry, not enough actual Masala present here. In Deutschland, Dr. Stan always embraces Gemüse, the Spinach Puree oft served as an accompaniment. Too green.

The plate was cleared, although there was a tacit acceptance that we had both abandoned the Chapatti. Dr. Stan:

A basic curry with medium spice. A good blend of spices. Gemüse spinach, which I like because its quite thick. Tender meat, plenty of it. Just about finished it.

On clearing the table, Mr. Khan commented on the half Chapatti remaining. That we had eaten everything else did not seem to matter. As has been written here previously:

Mr. Khan likes clean plates.

The Bill

Paying separately, I lost track. Together we parted with £46.35.

The Aftermath

It was very much a case of – see you again – as we departed. The Rickmeister now has a Curry venue in the east for when he has to attend a certain football ground in Leith. And that, unsurprisingly, was where we headed next. However, by kick-off, Dr. Stan and Hector were in Musselburgh.

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Glasgow – The Village – Monday Lunch

Monday lunchtime finds Hector and Marg at The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA). En route, Marg declared that she was happy to have the Lahore Lunch (£8.95) which features Vegetable Pakora, Keema and Chapattis, great value indeed. Hector had a Desi Curry in mind.

Arriving at 13.15, it cost £5.00 to park outside for an hour. The Village used to have a car park, maybe it still does, I should ask about this. Hanane was front of house, this was the first time I had seen her since our formal introduction and Hanane’s photo subsequently appearing in Curry-Heute.

Are you famous yet? – I had to ask. Hanane did like the photo, mask and all.

Hanane guessed that there was no need to bring the main menu, the Hector announced today’s Curry: Lamb Achari (£14.95) to be served on-the-boneDesi-style. Mushroom Rice (£3.95) would accompany.

Medium plus – was the agreed Spice Level. Usually, at The Village, I’ll settle for a jug of tap water, Marg managed to add a large bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.85) to the Order.

Mr. Baig, Mein Host, was busy in his office throughout our visit. Kasif, his son, was reviewing photos with the marketing chaps. There has been quite a bit of professional looking material appearing on a certain social medium of late. Otherwise, the two tables occupied by diners were soon free. It’s the middle of the Glasgow Fair Fortnight, a quiet time still, in the city.

Lahore Lunch

The Vegetable Pakora arrived, three large pieces, a Chilli Dip and a Soupçon of Salad

Well-fired, a no doubt double fried, Marg insisted I have one. I took a half, an opperchancity to secure a well illuminated photo. Discrete pieces of Potato and Onion were not visible, the Gram Flour was to the fore. Suitably Spiced, tasty, however, Hector’s plate was about to be topped up with something else.

Hanane presented two Poppadoms and some Spiced Onion – on the house.

Served at her discretion, this reinvigorated a conversation Marg and Hector have been having since our recent two visits to Annaya’s (Helensburgh). This is how Poppadoms should be served. As it happened, today I didn’t touch them, but did take most of the Spiced Onion which I found to have a Sweet taste and slightly antiseptic Flavour. The Red Chilli Sauce, some brands work, some do not.

An amuse bouche for Hector, a comforting Starter for Marg:

I was hungry and the three pieces of Vegetable Pakora were tasty with some dough binding the crispy veg. The small side salad had Peppers, Onion, and Lettuce. I enjoyed a Poppadom with my Salad using the Pakora Sauce.

The waiter brought the remaining food on a large tray. Two Chapattis, Marg only required one. Wholemeal, not suitable for the Hector, Marg was content.

Mince Curry

Not the full portion as ordering a la carte, but approximating to the actual quantity which Marg prefers to eat. There was a moment of concern when Marg thought she might have been served Chicken Mince, but the darkness surely confirmed Lamb.

Suitably Dry, the absolutely Minimal Masala shrouded the Keema, there was no sign of peripheral Oil. This was quality. Marg:

The Mince Curry was full of Coriander and small pieces of Chilli. A good kick and a rich flavour through the minced meat. The Chapatti was fresh and warm and although I was given two, I could only eat the one.

Across the table, there was a completely different dining experience. The Mushroom Rice was served directly on the plate, not The Village customary bowl to be upturned.

Fresh Mushrooms, Spiced Rice, this was of Biryani quality, tasty Rice, excellent, and a few grains more than I would manage, so plentiful.

Lamb Achari

The quantity was significantly more than Marg had been served. The Meat count reached double figures as I arranged the Lamb and some of the Thick Masala on top of the Rice. Spotting the Sucky Bone was another plus.

Small pieces of Pickle were strewn through the Masala. The distinctive Village Curry Taste was therefore further enhanced by the added Pickle.  The Spice Level had been well pitched, enough, no discomfort. The Seasoning was spot on, a la Hector.

The food could have been hotter, as was realised when I encountered a blast of heat from the centre of the mass. This only highlighted the comparative coolness of the periphery.

Super-Tender Meat, melt in the mouth, but as I remarked to Marg, I always end up chewing, then chewing more and more, towards the end game. This must be down to me, not the Meat on the plate becoming tougher.

Biting into a piece of Pickle was like a volcanic eruption of Flavour, why I choose this Curry, it is full on. The Pickle, the base Village Curry, Sucky Bone, the Mushrooms and the Spiced Rice, a complex array of Flavours, a creation/combination I can highly recommend.

The Bill

£27.85

The Aftermath

Marg and Hanane had quite a little chat. Now we know a bit more about the lady behind the mask…

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Glasgow – Yadgar – The Interview

An interview?

A few weeks back, Robbie of – The Glasgow Bell – an online newspaper, contacted Hector with an invite to take part in an interview on matters Curry related, and supposedly Curry-Heute in particular. Throughout the fifteen years of Curry-Heute, Hector has enjoyed the opperchancity of talking Curry with Restaurateurs in Glasgow and beyond, but to talk about – me – what could be more interesting?

That we should do so over a Curry was expedient.

Yadgar (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) was the chosen venue, a 15.00 rendezvous, Hector’s preferred time of day to eat Curry. Naveed, in his near constant spot behind the counter, was greeted and advised that I was waiting for a fellow diner who is vegetarian and would choose as and when. 

Hector’s portion of Goshat Karahi (£10.00) had been ordered yesterday by contacting Shkoor, Mein Host, directly. This would avoid a forty five minute wait for the outstanding creation to be prepared to the standard which sets Yadgar, and a couple of other Southside Curry Cafes, way above the Mainstream. There is no – Big Curry Pot – at Yadgar. And yes, I had let it slip, as if: Shkoor had been informed as to why I was coming today.

The window tables were occupied as I entered, other people evidently appreciate this time of day as an optimum time to eat. Unusually, I took the furthest table between the kitchen entrance and the facilities. Shkoor arrived moments later, Robbie soon thereafter.

Introductions completed, and Shkoor was on top form today, – The Interview – would be recorded, Robbie’s shorthand impressed. Knowing how long it takes to post a Curry review, poor chap, he’s going to have to listen to this again.

Food, Robbie ordered a Daal and an Aloo Gobi. Today, as one of the Daily Specials, Aloo Gajar Mutter (Potato, Carrots and Peas) was also on offer. Unusually, Aakash our waiter, had provided a menu. I was able to verify that the vegetarian Curry dishes are £6.00. I must have had them all, many are stunning, capturing the unique – Yadgar Taste. Shkoor was passing when I had him confirm yet again that they don’t cheat. There are no Meat products employed, so how do they do it? My theory, it’s the Carrots, they say otherwise.

Not to be denied, I added a portion of Aloo Gobi to my Order, Chapattis (£0.90) would accompany, not that I would be eating much Bread. Wholemeal Flour, I have gone off it. The customary cans of Mango Rubicon (£1.80) completed the Order.

Do I pay for my Curry? – was an early question posed by Robbie. Of course, but on occasion I have been invited to review venues by Restaurateurs directly, or via – Hotels PR – who periodically have Marg and Hector visit venues, to date, mostly in the east of Scotland.

However, at Yadgar, Hector admits to being spoiled, which is why there is a self-imposed limit on the frequency of visits here. The remarkable story of The Covid Clydebank Curry Lift was related. Generosity, appreciation, taken to the extreme.  As is often the case, Complimentary Starters/ Accompaniments, magically appeared.

Today, Poppadoms aplenty, Salad, Dips/Chutney, and Mixed Pakora spontaneously appeared. This is why Hector and Co. usually pay an agreed sum when eating here en masse. I’ll also invite readers to go back a few posts to share the recent angst of paying for Poppadoms etc. twice (!) in the same week in Helensburgh.

So engrossed were we, the food was taking second place, and being allowed to cool.

Having thoughtlessly taken a cross section of the Pakora, including the Chicken, Robbie was left only with a couple of pieces of the Vegetable. The Fish Pakora, always a highlight, all came my way when the limits had been established.

Read any previous review of Yadgar in Curry-Heute and verify the celebration of these Starters, especially when accompanied by Chapli Kebab.

Robbie was taken aback somewhat when I confirmed that this Review would be #156 for Yadgar. There are over one thousand reviews for Curry in Glasgow alone, all but a handful of venues visited. Every Curry consumed is reviewed, the tallies are down the right hand column, and if I have only been been somewhere local once, make you own conclusion.

That Hector could be – the most prolific Curry writer in the English language – was proferred by Robbie. Why have Guinness not been in touch?

The story of Hector’s first Curry was related, all has been posted here previously: Hector’s Lust for Curry which highlights Hector’s Curry Rule!

In passing, Shkoor related how pupils from my former teaching establishment have presented at Yadgar in search of Hector’s Curry.

It was time to discuss what makes a Curry. Chicken, no! Anything else. Why the majority of diners accept a non-absorbent Meat with sauce poured over it as Curry, baffles this commentator. The parameters of what defines – Desi Curry – have empirically evolved in these pages: Whole Spice visible, Lamb on-the-bone, are fundamental. Again, too many Mainstream venues simply add – Desi – to their menu, Hector will always challenge when this is experienced, usually in the more pukka establishments. That Marg likes ambience and Hector doesn’t give a, was emphatically relayed.

Consequently, or otherwise, there is no scoring system in Curry-Heute, it’s all about the Curry and the sought after – Wow! – moment. We have eaten at some rough and ready venues, not just in India, but more-so in Hellas/Greece. Then there was the evening we dined like Royalty on the Southside at Shaheed’s family home. Whatever happened to the Punjabi taxi driver who insisted that his wife was the best cook in Glasgow?

Food? Remember this is a Curry Blog. The main courses had been put back. Shkoor advised that today I should forego the Aloo Gobi.

Shafiq brought the Mains.

Goshat Karahi

A portion, eight to ten pieces of Meat, is typically served in a bowl, behold the full Karahi! This was easily the half kilo, not on the Yadgar menu as such, and otherwise disproportionately charged at every venue across the land. OK, it was in everyone’s interest that they make a feature of what has been described in these pages as – The Best Curry in Glasgow, by far – for some fifteen years. Mutual respect pays dividends.

I drew a line across the contents of the karahi so that Robbie would appreciate the volume which had been expected.

Topped with Coriander and Ginger Strips, Tomato skins were visible in the Minimal Masala. Karahi, not Curry per se, prepared Meat is cooked in a Tomato-based Masala. Simple, many a Chef has relayed the method, online videos too, but Hector’s attempts always fall short. It’s not just knowing the ingredients, but the how much and when. At Yadgar, Chefs rarely come and go, loyalty, what is served here is distinctive.

Spicy, but in no way demanding. The Seasoning was a la Hector, we discussed this back in 2010. Today, Lamb Chops were in the majority, not Tandoori Chops, these had been slow cooked in the Spice blend. Soft, succulent Meat which gives back more than just it’s Meatiness, another criterion in – Desi.

The Minimal Masala, packed with Flavour, the paradox that less is more. Contrast this to the plate of Meat swimming in Sauce dished out on every high street across the planet.

A pity that today I was somewhat distracted. Mentally, I drew another line, leave enough to make a Doggy Bag worthwhile.

Across the table, Robbie enjoyed the food on his first visit to Yadgar, but again only ate half of what was presented. Maybe – he was going home for his Tea?

Daal

Daal has of course featured previously in these pages, appearing as a – try this – when there’s a group. Robbie remarked on the size of the Lentils, yes they come in varying sizes and colours, advises the omnivore.

With the Oil separating and collecting on the periphery of the plate, a good stir was probably required to bring out the full Flavours. Unless it’s a veritable slick, never discard the Oil.

My turn to conduct the interview.

Robbie:

Buttery, melt in the mouth. Spice builds to a crunchy crescendo.

Aloo Gobi

The humble Potato, such a key ingredient, it can be added to any Curry. Potato absorbs in the way that Chicken never will. Cauliflower always brings its own distinctive Flavour to the party. As long as it al dente, another winner.

Add to this, the shrouding by the Yadgar Masala, a treat that the Hector was not being permitted to enjoy today.

Robbie:

Suitably dry, very gentle. Cauliflower, enough bite, resistance. Almost a sweet richness. More level spice (than the Daal), then rises, not as dramatic. Buttery, the Potato resists then breaks apart. Perfectly cooked.

Shkoor was on hand to observe how much would become Takeaway. That Hector’s appetite has waned, since Covid, is well recorded, that his total mass retains, a puzzle.

The Bill

£30.00

TANSTAAFL!

The Aftermath

Aakash was keen to get in on the act.

Hector was set some homework, to write:

The Ten Commandments for Curry.

The fundamentals had already been discussed and appear in these pages as – The Curry-Heute Campaign. Two hours had passed. I shall update readers as to when today’s interview is posted. As we walked along Calder Street, I did recall that Ron Mackenna of The Herald has referred to Hector as – Startlingly Committed.

No further punchline required.

One hour later, the secreted Cumin Seed revealed itself. The blast of Liquorice, Desi Curry.

Update: August 27

It is written

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Glasgow – New Cafe Reeshah – Authentic Desi Karahi

Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley have spent the weekend in Glasgow, hosted as ever by Marg and Hector. No visit would complete without Curry. A contemporary venue is always expected, today New Cafe Reeshah (455 Shields Road, Pollokshields, Glasgow G41 1NP). Clive was here some twelve years ago in the early days of – Cafe Reeshah – when Keema Mutter and Aloo Gosht reigned supreme.

In the past year, the Hector has been championing Lamb Karahi Lahori (£11.00/£13.00), Clive was up for this, the ladies would make a last minute decision. Marg drove us to the Southside, arriving at New Cafe Reeshah just on 13.00.

As ever, the two tables were unoccupied, however chairs along the wall have been replaced by fixed seating. The wall covering has also seen an upgrade. One can conclude that people sitting-in is being further encouraged in what is essentially a Takeaway venue. Next, a toilet, then we’ll be talking.

The hoped for Lamb Karahi Lahori was on display and in sufficient quantity for the four of us. Maggie accepted she should have this, such was the level of recommendation. Marg considered her favoured Keema, here as Aloo Qeema (£7.00/£9.00), but on seeing it was Chicken Mince, decided otherwise. This would be her first full on experience of the Lamb Karahi Lahori at New Cafe Reeshah.

Four portions of Karahi Gosht.

With no sign of Arshad or Amjad, it was clear that the chap serving was another relative. Bread was added to the Order: for Marg, her customary Tandoori Roti (£1.00), for Hector – Tandoori Naan (£1.50), Clive was not missing out on the opperchancity to have a Lamb Mince Paratha (£5.00). Maggie enquired after Rice. Boiled (£2.00) and Chicken Biryani (£6.00) were on display. Mushroom Rice, her request, not possible. Boiled it would be – and not too much – was the plea.

The usual table was claimed, I arranged glasses of water, it’s help yourself at the counter. The Bread would be cooked to order, the reheat of the Karahi would not take long either.

Arshad appeared from the kitchen to greet us. That we were four was clearly appreciated. It was he who brought out the food, one portion of Karahi and the Keema Paratha first. Clive was invited to tuck in.

A Modest Salad and a bowl of Raita followed next.

The Wholemeal Paratha was large and well stuffed with Mince. I managed to peel back a section to confirm Keema grains, not the mass of – pink – which some places dish out. Clive would manage all but a sliver, I’ve no idea how he can put that amount of Bread away. Note to self, do not order this, no Wholemeal Flour please.

Hector’s Naan, made from the lovely White Flour, sat atop two Roti, the latter again were Wholemeal. One Bread more than we had ordered, wastage was unavoidable.

The Naan, although mostly pale, was suitably light and fluffy. One day I’ll communicate the need for the – Half-Naan.

Then there was the Boiled Rice, way more than Maggie required, Clive took some, but again, wastage. We were here for the Curry.

*

*

*

Lamb Karahi Lahori

Approaching a Shorva, and so ideal for dipping, the Masala was packing the intensity of Flavour I have come to expect at New Cafe Reeshah. The Spice built slowly on the palate. With both Marg and Maggie present, it was not a matter of if, but when, the Spice Level would be discussed. The ladies were onside, and with enough of a kick to impress the Hector, satisfaction all round.

The plates were hot as were the contents, this meant the food was not going to cool rapidly as it has done in winter visits. The open door today was not an issue.

Eleven pieces of Meat were on the Hector’s plate, some on-the-bone. I couldn’t help but notice that Marg had acquired a disproportionate number of Sucky Bones. I had one piece of cartilage. Some you win.

Super-soft to chewy, quite an array of Textures, and with the Lamb having sat in the Masala, a good level of absorption. Peppery, with a hint of Citrus – was noted. Citrus takes the Hector towards the much sought after Desi Korma, Peppery towards Namkeen, Marg would surely enjoy this.

For once, four people, all having the same Curry, this simplifies the reporting.

Marg:

A large plate of meat, plenty of tender pieces of lamb with the expected sucky bones. A thin sauce, full of flavour with a decent kick. Enjoyed the large Roti and left a quarter of it. My first taste of the Lamb Karahi here.

Maggie:

Hot in heat, but medium hot in spice. Not too many bones, lots of big chunks of meat. I didn’t get any gristle, no fat. Not too much ghee, just enough to cook it and make it tasty. You can have whatever size of Rice you want. All round tasty Karahi.

Clive:

The Paratha was good, and rare. I wouldn’t call it Curry (indeed, it’s Karahi). Well balanced, temperature hot, not spicy hot. A good mix of bone bits and normal bits. No gristle, one piece of cartilage.

We each amassed our pile of Bones, all the Meat was devoured, a pity we would leave so much Bread.

The Bill

£55.00 Four people, suitably fed.

The Aftermath

Arshad was pleased that we had enjoyed our meal. He must know that the Karahi served here is something special. Are Mainstream venues just afraid to serve authentic Desi Fayre?

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Hector Cooks : Desi Lamb Curry

Today, Howard and Hector finally enjoyed a day of indulgence featuring the odd Bier or two, and many a cult movie: Hell Drivers, This Island Earth, The Day The Earth Caught Fire, The Satan Bug, Zero Hour, The Black Shield of Falworth, Deep End. A home-cooked Curry would feature, Marg even promised to return in time to partake. 

One of the main criticisms, in these pages, of Curry as served in restaurants is when the Meat and the Masala are clearly strangers until the point of serving. Yet I was advised many years ago by a Chef that cooking the Lamb in the Masala can lead to the latter being burned. Pre-cooking the Lamb in a pressure cooker can therefore reduce the actual time of cooking the Meat in the Masala. Subsequently, leaving the combination overnight solves everything.

To seal the Meat or not, the debate continues. This is how the Hector got around this.

Whole Spices, typical of what is usually ground to create a Garam Masala, were dry roasted on the base of the pressure cooker: Cinnamon Bark, Black Cardamom, Dried Red Chillies, Coriander Seeds, Methi Seeds, Mustard Seeds and Black Peppercorns. Care was taken not to overdo the roasting, too much and all turns to Carbon very quickly, also the fumes become noxious.

Today’s Meat was Scottish Spring Lamb, on-the-bone, purchased at House of Sher, Kingston, Glasgow’s foremost Asian supermarket. Already cut into manageable pieces, the 1.3kg of Meat would certainly be enough for three even allowing for the bone content. This is the only precise quantity I intend posting today, the photos should tell all. The bulk of the preparation was conducted last night.

The Meat was stirred into the Roasted Whole Spices, the browning process inevitably now underway. Enough Oil to create the sense of sealing the Meat was then added and the juices correspondingly started to be released.

With the Meat browned and sealed, enough Water to cover the solids was added and brought to the boil. Thirty minutes of cooking under pressure. The result, the Lamb cooked through but still firm enough to take some more.

Not wanting boiled Spices in my Curry, the larger Spices were separated, the liquid discarded.

As Curry was the intended outcome, not Karahi, Onions would feature. Having watched many a Curry being cooked on social media, today I would cook the Onions, Garlic Paste and chopped Ginger without Spice, then blend.

Some dry Brown Onions were fried in minimal Oil and half a large bag of frozen Onions then added. Frozen Onions, I find, will never turn brown.

A handful of Cashew Nuts and a dollop of Indian Yoghurt were placed in the blender, once the Onion combo had been cooked, in it went.

The result, a smooth Paste, and more than I intended using today. Having deliberately added no Spice, this Paste can be used in non-Curry creations as and when.

The Masala was therefore going to be Tomato-based.

To satisfy my own Curry-Heute criteria, Whole Spices would have to be visible. Cinnamon Bark, Cloves and Black Cardamom were fried in way less Oil than I would customarily use in the preparation of a Curry.

Three fresh, chopped Tomatoes were cooked for ten minutes, Coriander Seeds (forgotten at the start) were stirred in.

To this, a tin of chopped Tomatoes, Green Chillies, Tomato Puree and Garlic Paste were added in turn, then Turmeric, Kashmiri Chilli and Salt.

With the Oil separating, I knew this was – the brew that is true.

Time to add the cooked Meat. Having stirred this through, it could have passed for Curry already. Ten minutes cooking with the lid on the karahi and the desired – Dry-Thick Curry was manifesting itself.

Around a third of the Onion-Nut-Yoghurt Paste was added and stirred in.

No Hector Curry would be complete without Methi.

With the Dry Methi mixed through, I knew the Curry would need more liquid for today’s additions to work. The Water, although looking excessive to start, soon reduced. The creation was left overnight to infuse.

This morning, the final preparations.

Potatoes were par-boiled, fresh Coriander Leaves and Stems finely chopped, Garam Masala, and finally Tamarind were introduced, no further cooking required at this point.

When Marg returned and declared she couldn’t wait any longer to eat, so the Curry was reheated as the Basmati also cooked.

Visually, this Desi Lamb Curry is what I had imagined: a Thick, Tomato-based Masala with minimal Onion, the hint of Creaminess partly from the Cashew Nuts. The Potatoes, having sat all day in the Masala would have taken in the Flavours.

Some of the Meat had already detached itself leaving Sucky Bones. The Tenderness was a given, the pre-cooking guaranteeing this. Having been cooked firstly in the Garam Masala, then the main Masala, the desired – something extra – was achieved. This Lamb was very much in the – giving – category. Short of ordering Tikka Lamb, Mainstream Restaurants do not manage this, and how is pouring a Masala over Tikka Lamb a Curry?

Technically, this Curry was as I would seek it. However in terms of Flavour, it was very much a la Hector. Short of adding Lime Pickle to create an Achari, I do not know how to overcome this. All Hector’s Curry creations taste like Hector’s Curry.

Marg was first to comment:

My first fork happened to have a black cardamom. That woke up my senses. The texture of the sauce and lamb looked perfect. I thoroughly enjoyed the very tender meat with flavoured potato.

The spice level was fairly high, but I soon got used to it. The meat on the bone was excellent and I enjoyed the plain rice. A good taste of coriander and plenty of bursts from the black peppercorns. An enjoyable meal in good company.

FYI – Upside Down (Night) by Gazpacho – was the musical accompaniment.

Howard had the final say: 

A Rare Treat

There’s been a plan in place to have a day and overnight watching favourite films and drinking good Bier with Hector Curry-Heute. Of course it was hoped that curry would be involved somewhere in the mix. In this case it was a special treat of a home-made curry.

The curry naturally was lamb which came in a rich, deep sauce. Dark and intense, both the sauce and meat had oodles of flavour, with the lamb being melt in the mouth. Given that some, too many restaurants et al only get one element of this right, it was a bonus to get both.

Served with boiled rice, it topped an excellent occasion that, we hope will be repeated.

With some movies still to watch, this may well happen. If only Howard would show me his diary for the next five years…

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Helensburgh – Annaya’s – 48 Hours Later

Hector and Marg are back at Annaya’s (80-82 West Princes St., Helensburgh, G84 8XD) this Thursday evening, and yes we were here on Tuesday. Who planned this?

Marg had added – Craig & Lesley – to the diary, the format of the evening was unknown to Hector until Lesley asked on our arrival in Helensburgh – where are we going for Curry?

Craig and Lesley used to appear regularly in these pages, Hector’s cooking lessons. Eating out? The Curry-Heute Rule was invoked, no backing out now. We arrived at 18.30, Craig having phoned to advise Annaya’s that we were on our way.

On Tuesday, Mark celebrated Royal Nihari (£15.95) with gusto, this had to be Hector’s choice tonight. Nihari, Lamb Shank, is traditionally accompanied by Bread, Chapattis (£2.50) at Annaya’s are made from Wholemeal Flour which gives no pleasure at all to the Hector. There was a Naan Snafu here on Tuesday, this would have to be addressed.

Rocky, Mein Host, came over to greet, tonight he got the name right. Who prompted him? Or, had he read Curry-Heute?

Tuesday’s less than satisfactory Naan was discussed. Risen, puffy, blistered, three of the parameters in Curry-Heute which define a quality Tandoori Naan, not one ticked. Rocky deduced that if their Tandoor is constantly used it can lose its intense heat. For Hector this evening: Coriander Naan (£4.95) – served whole, no Garlic – was the challenge.

Whole Bread – the fourth parameter.

Meanwhile, there were three others at the table to consider. The menu was brought by the waitress, this would be consulted for the Sundries only. Marg was advising Craig when Rocky appeared with his Board to give us his spiel. As impressive as it was two days ago, the rerun was less compelling. However, tonight there was a new Starter: Malai Boti (£8.50): Chicken, featuring Cream Cheese, Yoghurt, Black Peppercorn and Ginger. This was ordered – to share.

Lesley would choose Punjabi Chilli Chicken (£14.95). Having taken advice from Marg, Craig would have Railway Boti (£14.95) which the lady described as – Wonderful – two days previously. Tonight, Marg opted for Desi Lamb (£14.95), served on-the-bone. So many genuine options. The good people of Helensburgh are fortunate in having this Award Winning restaurant in the heart of their town. As for the bad people, they can go elsewhere. The – Hot Naan Doner – as served along the street at Flamingo, a Takeaway, is truly – bad.

Craig and Lesley added one Roti to Marg’s, plus a Peshawari Naan (£4.95). On mentioning Rice they succumbed to Rocky’s suggestion of Special Dham Pilau (£4.95).

Poppadoms? – mooted Rocky. There was an immediate and positive response from my fellow diners. For once the Hector stayed Schtum, suckered again. That was a needless £9.50 added to The Bill.

OK, I would take a piece, or two, of Poppadom, did enjoy the Onion Chutney and Mango Chutney. The reality, I could have done without this distraction, I prefer not to play this game. Craig took care of the Pickle, Achari he had never heard of, he would like it.

Drinks had already been sorted, a large bottle of Sparkling Water (£5.95) and two pints of Lager (£4.95). Note: a pint here is £2.00 less than at Akbar’s (Glasgow)!

Malai Boti

An Interesting Starter: four pieces of Chicken, just as well, one each. With cremated nodes, suggesting the Tandoor had been employed, still remarkably White Chicken. Soft, succulent, the Cheese was noted by all but was not intrusive. A new experience.

Tandoori Lamb Chops (£8.50), surely better? Tonight, Marg almost had Lamb Chops as a main course, the Masala of her choice, understood. Pouring sauce over Meat does not a Curry make.

With my back to the room, I was unaware of how busy the place was becoming. An Indian family, who studied me with interest as I departed, had squeezed themselves on to one of the bench tables.  Eleven years of Annaya’s, they are doing well. The new Balloch outlet has yet to be visited. Tomorrow?

There seems to be a special chap who brings the food, a Chef? In time, all was assembled, there appeared to be a point to be made in bringing Hector’s Coriander Naan last.

Two Tandoori Roti/Chapatti, served halved, having eaten these for years, I have decided no more. This is not the Chapatti Flour I seek, bring me Bradford-style Chapattis made from White Chapatti Flour, the ones which used to prevail in Glasgow.

There was no comment forthcoming about the Peshawari Naan. Served in bits, stuffed Naan cannot rise in the same way a Plain Naan ought to.

The Special Dham Pilau was experienced by Hector back in January, featuring Chickpeas, Carrot and Sweetcorn. Although Rocky had distinctly mentioned Chickpeas at the point of ordering, to the best of my visual acuity, only Peas and Sweetcorn appeared. I was left to wonder who actually wanted Rice, much of the bowl remained untouched.

*

Royal Nihari

Topped with Ginger Strips, a threat of Coriander, sliced Bullet Chillies and a slice of Lemon, plenty garnish. Crunchy bits, Spicy bits, Tasty bits, for later.

A Shorva, but far from watery – was my observation on Tuesday when this Curry was seen for the first time. Today I was able to study it further: somehow more brown and slightly Thicker than that served at Glasgow’s New Cafe Reeshah or Sheerin Palace, I could see why Mark described it as – gravy.

Kick-off was slightly delayed due to the absence of a Coriander Naan. There was not quite a fanfare when it was produced, though clearly this was a key moment in Curry-Heute v Annaya’s.

Served Whole? Nope. The way the Naan is cut at Annaya’s is such that it looks like a whole Bread until examined closely. The Bread must be massive before cutting, space at the table therefore at a premium. Buy some Naan hangers?

Risen puffy, blisters? Around the edges of the Naan, certainly. Towards the centre, no. Here was the same thin, doughy mass as served on Tuesday. The Buttery sheen had me worried for a moment, there was relief when this proved not to be Garlic.

How’s your Naan? – Rocky would ask mid meal.

She passed decades ago – was the tempting answer, however:

Much better – slipped out.

This Naan was much better, but still had a long way to go before being highly praised in these pages. The Curry is what it’s all about. Dipping Bread in a Shorva used to be such an alien action, it appears to be happening more often. Scooping the Shorva with the edges of the Naan became the route to happiness this evening.

Well Seasoned, a decent Spice Level and I’ll take a punt at Cinnamon and Anise, this was a powerfully Flavoured Shorva.

The Lamb, having been removed from the Shank, but still cooked together, was in four large pieces. Unusually, I had to employ a knife to cut the Meat into manageable pieces. At the start of the Dipping, I noted how hot the Shorva was. As I tackled the Meat, I was somewhat taken aback by how much heat it had retained, and continued to do so. We had once again been given hot plates from which to eat, tonight, the Hector was eating directly from the karahi. What happened to the asymmetric bowls the Curry used to come in?

Ultra-Tender Lamb in the initial stages, does Meat become tougher as the Hector eats or is it simply a matter of slowing down to a snail’s pace?

The scooping of the Shorva in time revealed a Thicker Mass towards the base of the karahi, Meat fibre, the motherlode of  Flavour. The nature of this Curry was such that it was a case of finish the Lamb, then concentrate on the remaining Shorva, now more of a Masala. Usually the Bread is abandoned to facilitate finishing the Curry, tonight it was merely a matter of surplus Bread. I would love to have seen just how large this Naan would have been served – Whole.

Desi Lamb

The same Toppings as the Nihari, I wonder how similar was the Shorva/Masala. Marg would go on to describe the Masala as – Thick, so maybe a significant departure from what I had been served? No doubt, the Lamb was from a different cut of the beast. Marg’s summary of the evening:

The meal began with a new starter of Tikka Chicken with creamed cheese and spices. We all took a piece and I found it was very juicy and full of flavour. It was a good start to the meal, after Poppadoms and mango chutney.

My main dish was full off lamb on the bone in a thick masala. A general spicy taste with very tend lamb. Used the Roti to pick up the sauce. A very pleasant dish.

Railway Boti

As seen on Tuesday, no Herb Toppings, Cashew Nuts featuring instead. This Masala was Classic Curry and with this I would have favoured Rice. On advising Craig, Marg was mindful that he does not normally tolerate Cream in any form, yet he accepted a hint of it here. Sqd Ldr Craig:

It was nutty, very peppery, flavoursome.

On Tuesday, Marg gave a much fuller appraisal. I suspect this Curry could be my choice next time at Annaya’s.

Punjabi Chilli Chicken

This Annaya’s Curry makes its inaugural appearance in Curry-Heute. Surprisingly, it was topped with sliced Bullet Chillies only. Maybe the clue was in the moniker?

The Masala did appear to be similar to the Railway Boti, again, I would have favoured Rice with this.

Why was so much Rice left at the end?

Lesley offered her description of the evening:

Initial Poppadoms, fairly standard. Never had cheese like that in chicken. It didn’t taste cheesy. Enjoyed the Rice (yay!), wasn’t greasy.

Re the main course: Could have been slightly hotter (in Spice). The sauce was light, flavoursome. Chicken thighs, light, a good portion.

Inevitably, the Bread formed much of the leftovers.

The Bill

£113.95

The Aftermath

I promised Rocky that I would not be back again – this week.

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Helensburgh – Annaya’s – Not Just A Meal, An Event

Our last Curry with Mark and Jude was in Dunedin, New Zealand, on Day 33 of RTW-80. Today’s rendezvous took Marg and Hector down to Helensburgh and Annaya’s (80-82 West Princes St., Helensburgh, G84 8XD). Annaya’s, the best show in town, and as the evening would reveal, it’s not just in the eating.

Following an aperitif, we arrived for our 19.00 booking. A Tuesday evening, Annaya’s was quiet, however, I am more used to being here on a Saturday when the place is wedged.

The complex menu, first seen in January, apart from Sundries, was basically ignored. The Specials Board is where – the good stuff – is displayed. Even then, the Desi Lamb, courtesy of Alan of this parish, and influenced by Hector over the years, has become: Desi Lamb Methi – on-the-bone, extra Seasoning (£14.95).

There was no sign of Rocky, Mein Host, initially. When the waitress mooted Poppadoms, I gave my usual response – if Rocky wants us to have them, they will arrive.

They did, and I was not amused to find £8.50 on The Bill to cover these and the Chutney/Dips. My tactic didn’t work, I would have been outvoted anyway.

A glass of red wine and the first of two large bottles of Sparkling Water were ordered. Drinks – £18.40. Hector the Miserable? OK, it was a special night and we were out – to dine.

Back to the food. Rocky appeared, recognised me, called me by the wrong name and proceeded to talk us through the Specials on his own portable board. There were only one or two tweaks from that last seen in January.

Rocky informed me that my elaborate Methi Gosht would feature Mustard Leaves as well as Methi. Rocky’s spiel was so detailed I interrupted to suggest we should have made an audio recording. It was not just revealing the ingredients for each Dish but also the timing of when they are added. Royal Nihari (£15.95) was one Curry he particularly highlighted this evening. I had to challenge when he relayed the Lamb was removed from the Bone before cooking. Ah, the Bones are then cooked in. Clever, and not off-putting as some may find being served a Lamb Shank. Mark was sold on the Royal Nihari. As with last year in Dunedin, Marg chose a Railway Curry: Railway Boti (£14.95), whilst Jude stuck to Prawns: King Prawn Tikka Masala (£15.95).

Each couple would both share Rice and Bread: Pilau (£3.50) for the visitors with a Garlic & Coriander Nan (£4.95), Marg and Hector – Mushroom Rice (£4.95) and a Coriander Nan (£4.95?). Once again, I had managed to persuade Marg to have the more elaborate Bread. Roti here is made from Wholemeal Flour, and as established at Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin) on Saturday, the Hector is not for having this.

Starters? Oh, why not? Marg and Hector would share Fish Pakora (£7.95) which was a standout last time, Mark and Jude – Vegetable Pakora (£5.95).

It was great being here on a quieter evening, the full treatment was very much the name of the game. Annaya’s keeps winning awards. Who wins Awards?

Having left for but a moment, I returned to find the Starters on the table accompanied by a further four Dips.

Fish Pakora

Seven decent sized pieces of what I took to be Haddock. That they were freshly cooked was not in doubt, the pieces were so pliable. The Dips were hardly required such was the Flavour from the Fish, but when in Rome. The batter was seriously Spicy, surprisingly so.

Vegetable Pakora

Helensburgh’s long lost Akash set the standard for freshly cooked Pakora, none of this double frying nonsense which has become the norm. Tonight’s Pakora was lightly fried and featured the jaggy bits which are a feature of home-cooked Pakora. Six pieces, once upon a time it was nine, so not a lot when sharing, and Delhi Darbar (Dumbarton) would be passed on the way home, their Takeaway portion oft reaches more than two dozen.

Mark said – the Pakora was great. Jude also praised the Condiments. We had amassed seven.

Five to ten? – asked Rocky, referring not ot the time but the proposed gap between courses.

Fifteen – I proposed. Let the Starts digest.

Jude remarked that we were never asked how Spicy we wanted our Curry. I assured her Spice Level would not be an issue, they know what they are doing.

Super hot plates heralded the arrival of the Mains. And with Rice ordered, we would all be eating from a dinner plate this evening.

Both Rice portions proved to be enough to share, especially with Bread accompanying. Having celebrated the Mushroom Rice this past year at Chimes of India (Glasgow) then more recently at Curry Pot (Glasgow), I know how wonderful a Mushroom Rice can be. Tonight’s Mushrooms appeared to be compariively few and shrivelled,  a not so Interesting Vegetable. The Rice itself had no particular Flavour. impact.

What happened to the Bread? I have read back through previous visits to Annaya’s. The Bread, in various forms, has always impressed. Not tonight.

The waiter presented the Naan, Garlic & Coriander to Mark and Jude, Plain Naan to Marg and I. I assumed he was simply differentiating.

Risen, blistered, puffy – has been a feature of the Tandoori Naan served here previously. Tonight, peely wally, limp, soggy, and no sign of the dough having been near a Tandoor.

As I completed my photographic ritual, so Marg got to the Bread first.

Garlic!

Was the Bread issued the wrong way round? Mark confirmed they too had Garlic. Further study revealed just a threat of Coriander in theirs.

Our Naan  had no sign of Coriander and was clearly giving off overwhelming Garlic, which we had deliberately tried to avoid.

Served in four pieces, this Naan was a classic example of everything the Hector tries to avoid.

There was little point in sending it back. The mistake had been made, why let our food cool whilst we waited for another limp piece of Bread? Between us, we ate less than half.

Desi Lamb Methi – on-the-bone, extra Seasoning

What lay beneath the toppings of Coriander, Ginger Strips and sliced Bullet Chillies, was exactly what the Hector helped develop in Helensburgh after Methi was first identified in Bradford three decades ago. A Dry, Thick Masala with Herbs, not the Herb Mash which some venues resort to … and in mainland Europe, they add Cream!

The aforementioned Akash is where this Master Curry was honed to Hector’s palate, then there was the ill fated fire. To have this Methi Gosht served on-the-bone, even better, a Desi Curry.

The Seasoning was a la Hector. The Herb-rich Masala was approaching the great Bradford Curry Taste. The Bullet Chillies, taken as and when, gave the extra – kick.

Super-soft Lamb, saturated with Herb, Meat that was giving back more than just its own Flavour. Again, this is what the Hector seeks, and although no Whole Spices were encountered, enough to justify being called a Desi Curry.

The Bread dismissed, the Rice still proved to be plentiful. It was a case of maximise pleasure, finish the Curry, and so leave a few grains. Bhuna Dry, this was quite a Curry.

Railway Boti

Wonderful! – was an early exclamation by Marg, and why not? The Masala was – Classic Curry, and the Lamb was served – on the-bone.

Topped with Cashew Nuts, the Oily sheen from the Masala was so inviting. For once, not even a Soupçon was coming Hector’s way. Coriander too, hard to tell for sure if the Masala had been blended.  This version of Railway Boti bore no resemblance to the Creamy-Soupy affair served here back in 2019.  As with – Handi – a Curry with this moniker can be anything Chef wishes to dish out.  I would be tempted to have this version next time, but then I know what follows below already.

At this rate, Marg will be starting her own Blog:

A Poppadom with Mango Chutney was a familiar start to a meal in the past. When the Fish Pakora arrived it was piping hot and freshly made. I enjoyed the mixed sizes of Pakora and used a few of the dips on offer.

We asked for a short break and this gave us all some time to digest our starters and be ready for the main meal. My Railway Boti dish looked full of meat with cashew nuts sprinkled on top. I loved the taste of the sauce and the lamb was very tender with some pieces on the bone. This rich, sweetened sauce was absorbed in the mushroom rice and was a real treat to eat. The only hiccup was the nan bread, which was covered in garlic, instead of coriander which had been asked. I did use the bread to mop up the meal, where the garlic was too strong. Overall, the dish was fabulous and a real delight.

Royal Nihari

A Boneless Nihari, but as we now know, cooked with Bone in the pot. Traditionally served in a Shorva, this Masala was heading in that direction, but was far from watery. A Dark, mysterious Masala, and once again topped with Coriander, Ginger Strips and sliced Bullet Chillies.

Mark raved about his Curry throughout the eating and would later tell Rocky that he would happily have just had the Masala on its own, so impressive was the Flavour.

With the introduction and explanation, it became an event. Not just a meal.

I recommend that curry, sauce was like a Sunday roast gravy with spices, not too (Spicy) hot.

King Prawn Tikka Masala

This was the only Curry this evening from the menu, not the Specials. A Soupy Masala, with a swirl of Cream, never going to be a challenge.

Jude did ask Mark to verify that she had Prawns, she didn’t recognise the now spiralled Seafood. Her concluding remark says it all:

Thought the service was phenomenal. The attention to detail, made you feel welcome curry was good, not the best I’ve ever had. Flavours not complex, down to me picking a basic curry.

Has the lady been away from her native Bradford for too long?

Rocky was back. More Curry recipes being described. I had to ask The Big Question!

Have you ever served a Desi Korma?

Rocky then proceeded to give a detailed description of the ingredients and method to create this truly – Shahi Curry – and how it was transformed from what the Hector considers to be the tastiest of Curry, traditionally served at functions, to the creamy/coconut abomination (my term) that is universally available.

Maybe, one day, this will be one of the Specials.

Next time at Annaya’s, the Maestro will have to be recorded.  So much information lost to the ether.

The Bill

£119.30

The Aftermath

We didn’t stay for Coffee, though Marg must have been overheard mentioning Chai.

Rocky presented a portion of Chai-mix, reminiscent of Turkish Apple Tea.

Marg may well purloin this.

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