Glasgow – Yadgar Kebab House – Umami !

Somewhat predictably, Saturday’s Curry at Karahi Palace is followed by a visit to Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP). Marg and Hector arrived at 14.15, the exterior seemed particularly bright today. Shkoor, Mein Host, was behind the counter, sorting the Daily Specials.

A small container immediately caught the eye, the remnants of the Aloo Gosht, some of which Howard enjoyed on Friday. Meat and Potato, which had been sat in the Shorva for three days, Hector was having hopefully this, unless it had been previously allocated.

What else? Shkoor advised that fresh Dishes were due to arrive from the kitchen soon. We already had enough to choose from.

Aloo Gobi was available, I asked for a small portion. Marg spotted Keema.

Lamb or Chicken? – asked Shkoor.

I doubt if the choice has ever been offered before, Marg of course went for – Lamb, with Peas and Potatoes. Keema Aloo Mutter, or is that Aloo Keema Mutter?

The chap, who had been standing at the counter, gave way such that the photos could be obtained.

You’re Hector – he exclaimed – my brother reads your blog. I do occasionally – was added, almost as an afterthought.

It is always good to meet my readers, carelessly, I forgot to establish their names. That we were in Yadgar speaks volumes. Karahi Palace was mentioned as Glasgow’s other great Curry outlet. Desi Pakwan (Edinburgh), which is overdue another visit, was also mentioned. Outstanding – Desi-Punjabi Cuisine – is the common denominator for these venues.

We took our seats in the empty room, have the heaters at the window stopped working? Fortunately, experience has taught us how to dress for Yadgar in winter. Naveed arrived for the start of his shift. It was the new chap who brought the anticipated Starters, along with the customary cans of Mango Rubicon. Today, four large pieces of Fish Pakora and a Chapli Kebap, plus the two Dips. The Spicy Red Dip was – hotyay!

Chicken Chapli Kebab

Always a treat, one could overdose on these, the Flavours are wonderful. The – Big Spice Hit – was instant, that’s the palate into overdrive – I thought as I ate. Marg asked if there was actually – Meat – in the mash from which the patty had been created. I reminded her of my not so successful attempts at creating Chaplis during Lockdown.

Fish Pakora

Fresh Haddock, shrouded in a Spicy Batter. Spice and the taste of Fish, add the hot sauce, and this is off the pleasure scale. Again, one could eat this all day, fortunately the quantity served was well judged. We could look forward to managing – The Mains – with confidence.

There was a suitable wait between courses. Shkoor took time to catch up, he remarked upon the recognition of – Hector.

What is the price of fame? – he asked.

When I find out, I’ll tell you – was the modest reply.

Remember, when you do become famous, we were with you from the start.

Indeed, this is true. In the early months of Curry-Heute, the first visit to Yadgar marked the breakaway from being resident at The Village. The list of venues down the right column of this page is beyond anything I conceived back in 2010. Our next trip was announced, but Hector might revisit some favourite English venues before then.

Three plates of Curry plus a tray with two Chapattis arrived. The bowls were hot, as was the food, crucial in February. With the photographic ritual out of the way, I pondered as to the necessity of the Chapattis. One would have done, Hector after all, had Meat and three Veg, who needs Bread?

Aloo Gosht

The Lamb was on-the-bone, one Sucky Bone was unearthed along with Black Cardamom. It has been a few weeks since I encountered the black, smokey pods.

The Masala was Shorva, not my preferred accompaniment with Lamb, however, this was Curry, not – Karahi.

The first dip of Chapatti into the Shorva revealed – The Yadgar Taste. The taste-buds had recovered from the Chapli’s Spicy assault. Having possibly sat in the Shorva for three days, the Flavours from the Meat were up to the expected standard. The Potatoes too had proved their absorbency, they add so much to a Curry.

Umami translates as – Savoury. Until yesterday, I had understood this term to refer to – meatiness. Sources still confirm this to be an acceptable term of reference. However, it goes way beyond Meat, and includes all foods containing the amino acid – Glutamate. I threw out a jar of MSG some years back due to the negative publicity associated with using it as a food additive, time to rectify this.

MSG-bad, Umami-good, same taste.

Aloo Gobi

A Dry Curry, some of the Cauliflower had gone to pulp and was therefore indistinguishable in the Minimal Masala, the remainder was as should be. More Potatoes, can man have too many Potatoes in a Curry. A few days ago in Berlin, I asked why there were so few in my Vindaloo.

Potatoes, can man, or a woman, have too many Potatoes in a Curry? Potatoes are a source of – Glutamate – QED. As are Fish and Mushrooms.

Aloo Keema Mutter

More Potatoes, more Umami! And more of Marg’s favourite Curry. Here was an appropriately Dry Curry with no sign of peripheral Oil, the healthy option.

A hot temperature and a spicy kick – observed Marg – added to the potato and pea dish. Very enjoyable, requiring most of the Chapatti.

It was Hector who left the larger piece of Chapatti.

The Bill

Money did change hands, that’s all I shall reveal.

The Aftermath

Farewell to Naveed who had acknowledged our recent trip to Deutschland.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – Karahi in Gasgow

After an outstanding Lamb Achari at Royal Punjab (Köln) and a decent Mutton Vindaloo at Vedi’s (Berlin), it’s back to Curry in the Homeland. A Saturday afternoon in Glasgow, time to revisit Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ).

I arrived at Karahi Palace at 14.30, Ayaz was front of house and Chef.

The usual?

Yes please.

For those who have not stumbled across these pages before: Karahi Gosht (£9.00) and a Chapatti (£0.80).

A Salad was offered after I had taken my seat, a jug of Tap Water arrived also. It’s good to be home, back in the land of Desi Karahi, a significant step up from Curry.

A new assistant Chef was finishing his lunch, another new chap, a delivery driver, came in and out. Both acknowledged what would be the only customer for the duration.

I spent the waiting time filling out an online complaint to ScotRail. When one cannot buy one’s ticket at a machine or an app, because neither sell it, the ticket office is closed, and nobody is selling on the train, then one is forced to join the lengthy queue at Glasgow Central (Low Level) to purchase said ticket.

Shambolic – was an expression I heard at the front of the queue as the rear blocked the exit gates. I have previously been waved through on showing my concession card, not today. When one of the two ticket sellers ran out of tickets, he simply disappeared, never to return. Shambolic indeed.

I poured the Raita over the Salad. At Karahi Palace I usually decline the Salad when dining alone, however, Seit Salat in previous days has renewed my interest. It gave me something to eat whilst I waited for the super hot Karahi to cool.

Karahi Lamb

Tender-Soft, Lamb on-the-bone, and lots of it.

A superbly Thick Tomato-based Masala.

Ginger Strips, sliced Green Chillies, and modest sprinkling of Fresh Coriander.

These are the ingredients which make this the happiest of meals. The consistency in Flavour is always remarkable. Sometimes the Seasoning may vary, today it was a la Hector, Ayaz knows.

Sucky Bones, and two other slivers, so minimal bones, maximum impact. The unearthing of Cinnamon Bark was a rarity. It also reminded me that this Spice does not appear in recent Karahi Gosht Recipes I have posted.

I used to always leave a piece of Chapatti, lately this has not been the case. A Chapatti and half would be ideal, maybe it’s about time I moved up to Paratha once more? I ate the lot. Going away, makes one appreciate all the more, what is available at home.

The Bill

£10.00   A round sum.

The Aftermath

As always, appreciation was expressed.

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Berlin – Vedi’s Indisches Restaurant – Curry in Berlin

Curry in Berlin, not something that sets the pulse racing, as was borne out last November when Hector didn’t bother. Swera and Sadhu have proved that decent Curry is there to be had, there’s also India Club for fine dining. However, I have yet to find the venue that has that something special, as experienced at Royal Punjab (Köln) three days ago. Another medium, which ranks all restaurants across every city, has Vedi’s Indisches Restaurant (Schönhauser Allee 142, Prenzlauer Berg, 10437 Berlin, Deutschland) ranked #1 for this cuisine. Can all of the good people of Berlin be wrong? After the chaps at Bräugier sent me to Bahadur a couple of years back, I have every reason not to raise my hopes.

Prenzlauer Berg, Hector’s playground in Berlin, home to the aforementioned Bräugier and also Manifest Taproom which I visit on every trip. I am also therefore aware of Naan (opposite Manifest) and Chutnify (on the walk between the two Craft Beer outlets). Another source rates Chutnify comparatively low, but it’s always busy. One day, however, there’s another twenty Curry Houses in this area to distract.

We arrived at Vedi’s at 16.45, a smoking couple were sat in the enclosed outside eating area, the interior of the restaurant was empty. Vaccination Passports scanned, we were shown to a window table as were the following three sets of diners. By the time we departed, some ten diners were inside.

The décor at Vedi’s is outstanding, perhaps this is why others rate it so highly. I insisted Marg visit the facilities, the fountain is a hoot, and complements the most modern of fittings. Ambience, décor, these are not the parameters by which Curry-Heute rates a Curry House, it’s all about the food.

Marg had eaten earlier and so would have Indischer Masala Chai (€2.80). For Hector, Mutton Vindaloo (€13.90) with the accompanying Rice and Salad. Other Dishes featured the inevitable – Paprika. No Karahi for Hector today, it would have to be a Mainstream Curry. A 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water (€5.40) completed the Order. Berlin appears to be the opposite of Köln. Here, Water is dearer than Bier, Cola is not.

From my seat I could see through the hatch into the kitchen. Takeaway customers were dealt with first. The Tea arrived with the Sparkling Water, the three young chaps serving were not exactly being overrun, however, Marg thought other customers were waiting a long time for their drinks. The Curry did not arrive in an instant which was pleasing, in fact it took half an hour.

When I saw the pot of Rice, I thought – here we go again. Ah, but this was the pot with the false bottom, still more Rice than a Hector could eat, but only a couple of spoonfuls would go to waste.

Mutton Vindaloo

The grated Coconut stood out in the Shorva-esque Masala. I can handle a bit of Coconut, hopefully this would not distort the overall Flavour. I decanted the solids, easily into double figures, then I realised some were Potato, but only three. Three pieces of Potato in a Vindaloo, more required, surely?

The moment of truth, not bad at all. There was a sense of building Spice. The Spice would never reach a demanding level, clearly pitched for the German palate. The Seasoning was sound, this Curry had a chance of impressing the Hector. The Mutton was Tender-firm, well cooked Meat. By the time I added the remaining Masala to the Rice, I realised I could have done with some more. So, not excessive Masala.

The Mutton Vindaloo was enjoyable, it was never going to win accolades in Curry-Heute. What stood out is what was not present. Too often one encounters the great – Euro-Curry Taste, as if Chefs were all using the exact same mix of Spices, or the same cookbook. This Curry had its own degree of distinctiveness, a more than Competent Curry.

The Bill

€22.50 (£18.91)   And not a tablecloth in sight.

The Aftermath

I gave the Calling Card to the chap who dealt with the payments. It was politely received.

Thank you for your compliment – he said.

Did you? – observed Marg as he withdrew.

Menu extracts

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Köln – Royal Punjab – The Wow Factor!

I’ll start with the positive: after a three month Omicron induced hiatus, Hector and Marg are back in Deutschland! This trip is a replica of that booked for last December when the plan was to do the best of the Weihnachtsmärkten in both Köln and Berlin. OK, we’re too late for the markets, but it is warmer and the days are visibly longer. Hopefully, this December we’ll be back, and maybe a budget airline might offer a direct Scotland to Köln flight? Eurowings? Aye right.

This is Marg’s first trip to Köln since the infamous day the volcano erupted in Iceland. Ironically we did fly that day, from Köln to München. What became of Air Berlin?  The middle of April, 2010, when Curry-Heute was in its infancy.

Indian Curry Basmati House has featured prominently in Curry-Heute to date, they hardly need more promotion from Hector. At the end of 2017, I discovered a new Pretender to being best Curry House in Köln: Royal Punjab (Venloer Str. 4, 50672 Köln, Deutschland). An impressive Fish Curry was followed four weeks later by a not so wonderful German-style Creamy Lamm Methi. However, having taken Steve and Dr. Stan there for the Lunchtime Buffet, the efficacy of the Fayre was established.

Marg and I arrived at Friesenplatz at 14.00, Royal Punjab lies a few metres to the west. Thirteen other diners were already present this Sunday lunchtime. Mein Host was dealing with a large group sat at the window. We took a table in the middle of the room, our Vaccine Passports were at the ready. Back in November, Deutschland was – 2G – two vaccines, or no entry to bars/restaurants. Now it’s – 3G.

Marg was not having Curry-Heute, not even the presence of Keema on the menu could persuade her. Spaghetti Carbonara would be acquired later. At Royal Punjab, Indischer Tee (€2.90) would suffice. For my drink, a 0.3l glass of Lime Wasser (€3.90) got my attention. Having done my sums, a 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water was ordered. Today in Köln, Water is cheaper than Bier, Cola is not.

Down to business. With my usual caveats in place, the choices were restricted. So it goes. Lamm Achari (€13.90) would be the Curry-Heute. As is the custom in many Deutsche Restaurants, the price included Basmati, here it was a choice of Basmati Rice or Butter Naan. It quickly became apparent that Mein Host’s English was far superior to Hector’s Deutsch, but still, – Scharf – was agreed, as was – Reis.

Scharf, in Polska they take this seriously. In Deutschland, the vast majority of Curry Houses are reluctant to serve Curry at any level which could be interpreted as – Spicy.

The indigenous population cannot handle it – I have been told oft.

Marg’s Tea was everything I try to avoid.

Tea, Earl Grey, Hot – a la Picard, for Hector. Milk in Tea, yeuch!

Hot, with spicy flavours, and a refreshing alternative to food – Marg related afterwards.

A stand for the karahi, complete with lit candle, preceded the arrival of the Curry. The mound of Basmati was classic European Curry House. Why so much, who can eat all this? At least today I would not be offered – more Rice? There was a hint of Cumin Seeds mixed through the Rice.

Lamm Achari

A tiny sprinkling of Coriander sat atop the Masala, plus more generous Ginger Strips. The Oil was separating in the karahi, a feature of many a decent Curry enjoyed back in Blighty. Having taken – enough Rice – I decanted the Meat and about half of the Masala. Curry Leaves revealed themselves in the mash, Tomato Seeds were prominent throughout. The Meat was easily into double figures, the Masala was suitably thick. Shorva – this was not! The colour was a comforting light brown, not – Red – as someone claimed to observe on a certain social medium.

The first mouthful of any Curry at a new venue is always one of great hope. Being my third visit to Royal Punjab, expectations were high. I was not prepared for the first blast of Flavour. South Indian – Smoked Red Chilli – hit the palate first. This was a huge surprise, the Pickle followed immediately thereafter. Two – Big Blasts – I was already making the noise which Marg has come to recognise as – this Curry has something special, the – Wow! – is here.

The Spice Level was indeed – Scharf – but not crazy. The Seasoning? It could not have been pitched better. For some, this Curry may have been too Salty, however, this was the level of Seasoning all but Creamy Curry should possess.

I bit into some Lime Pickle, another moment that took me aback. Every so often another blast of Smoked Chilli. This Curry was truly magnificent. All boxes were being ticked, and more. Let’s not overlook the Meat, it was Tender-Soft, large pieces, plenty, and the Lamm was giving back Spice & Flavour.

I poured the remaining Masala over the Rice and final pieces of Lamb. Mein Host approached:

Geschmekt?

I gave the reply of approval, I would keep my powder dry for a few more minutes.

Lamm Achari? This was way more than a Mainstream Lamb Achari. This was a South Indian flavoured Lamb Achari, everything about it was spot on. There is Curry in Deutschland!

The Bill

22.70 (£19.08) I had to pay using – cash.

Royal Punjab presently only accepts card payments from German bank accounts. By the tone of the announcement, this may change.

The Aftermath

I rarely give a second Calling Card to a venue, today I was giving my third. It was an elder chap who served me back in 2017, Mein Host today was new to me. Curry-Heute was discussed, it does make more sense in Deutschland. The Lunchtime Buffet has been suspended until after the era of Koronawirus.

It was Marg who suggested the photo, such was the level of engagement.

Royal Punjab, if there’s finer Curry served in Köln, I have yet to find it.

Menu Extracts 2022

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Manchester – Kabana – Hector’s Treat before – IQ in Bury

Back to Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England), and this time no holding back. Today, Hector was going for it: the customary Karahi Lamb on-the-bone (£6.00) would be accompanied by a Plain Naan (£0.80) in addition to the usual Rice (£1.50). Knowing the volume of the Curry & Rice, no way could this be finished, I would have a go. Inspired by Des’ Dish yesterday, Marg ordered Chicken Tikka with Salad (£4.20), and no Masala.

For this session at Kabana, we were joined by Martin who had only been here once previously. I introduced Martin to Rizwan, it is important that Mein Host should know how many people make Curry at Kabana a priority when visiting Manchester. Martin ordered Karahi Lamb (boneless) (£6.00) and a Chapatti (£0.80).

Marg had arranged for us to sit once more at the fat man’s table nearest the serving hatch. Despite putting off our rendezvous today until 14.00, there was still quite a throng assembled at both counter and in the dining area. A considerably large Takeaway was the staff’s focus of attention for a period, then normal service was resumed. Marg’s non-Curry arrived first.

Chicken Tikka

Five well fired pieces of Chicken were accompanied by Spiced Onions, a Modest Salad with some Raita poured on top. The Spiced Onions were left – too Spicy – was Marg’s take. Having enjoyed her lunchtime snack, the following was declared:

Juicy Chicken with a big kick. I thought I might make a scene at one point, it took me by surprise.

The rest of the Order arrived when ready. The indulgent Naan replicated that which I had spotted yesterday. For a mere 80p, outstanding value, especially when compared to restaurant prices. Given the substantial size of this Naan, why are venues charging four times as much for sometimes less?

The Naan was a total delight. It was soft, fluffy, had the burnt bits, and also girth. Even with Marg’s assistance, around a third of the Naan would be wasted. Without the Rice, I may well have managed the lot, but there had to be Rice. Why? The boneless Karahi Lamb revealed all.

Karahi Lamb (Boneless)

The abundant Masala was approaching Shorva, this makes for quite a splashy meal. With Rice, the excess is absorbed, this tends to be the runny component, leaving the thicker elements atop the Rice.

The three pots of foliage were brought to the table. I encouraged Martin to be liberal. Maybe next time he’ll know what one can get away with.

Martin expressed his enjoyment as he ate, using the – two words – that cannot appear in a food blog. He also remarked on the tenderness of the Meat.

Rizwan is deservedly proud of his butcher – I related. Marg cued up Martin for a more elaborate quote:

A bit salty for me, spicy, tender meat.

Hector can only stress the importance of Seasoning yet again.

Not enough Seasoning = Bland Curry.

Karahi Lamb on-the-bone

This Karahi is in a category of its own. It is not the thick Desi Karahi as served at Dera, if they are still in operation, or Lahori Badsha also on Cheetham Hill Road. Fortunately it is far from the Mainstream nonsense served up in restaurants, stir fry by any other name. Perhaps it is not even a true Lahori Karahi, but just a damn fine Curry? Whatever, it packs the intensity of Flavour required to have Hector visit Kabana and have this on every trip to Manchester.

As is the embarrassing custom, heaps of foliage was added, hence the original Spice Level and Texture was altered dramatically. As you like it.

With the excellent Naan in hand, the Masala was dipped into, a novel approach for Hector at this venue. All that needed to be confirmed, was. The Spice, the Seasoning, and thus the anticipated Flavours all present. Today, no Clove encounter, of any kind.

The quantity of Rice is usually close to my limit. With the Bread, it was a case of minimising the waste food, but this Naan was proving difficult to resist.

When I knew the endgame was close, the Naan was abandoned, eat as much of the Rice soaked in the wonderful Masala as possible. I did.

And I would do this again, but only on day one of a trip when the appetite matches the Curry Lust.

*

*

Time to pay. Marg decided this should be my treat. Martin did not disagree.

The Bill

£19.30   If magnanimity is to be thrust upon one, this is the venue to have it done.

The Aftermath

As we departed, two things were established. Firstly, Rizwan confirmed that Kabana is closed on Saturdays once more. Secondly, our next scheduled visit to Manchester is not until April. By then, Hector should have been to Deutschland twice.

And so to Bury for IQ

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Manchester – Kabana – Today is only Yesterday’s Tomorrow

I thought you were abroad – was the greeting from Rizwan, Mein Host at Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England) when I entered with Marg at a somewhat late 16.20.

No, we’re down to see IQ in Bury tomorrow night.

Rizwan had never heard of IQ. To date there are three reviews of Bury gigs on Curry-Heute – Prog Rock – Concert Reviews – but none have been on a day when I have been to Kabana, so no association then. Perhaps they were on Saturdays when Kabana used to be closed? Tomorrow we’ll change that, and also from tomorrow, international travel becomes a whole lot easier with the needless testing being dropped. When the transport minister declared testing to travel to be a waste of time weeks ago, why didn’t he scrap it back then?

Tomorrow, we plan to meet up with Martin for Curry. Karahi Lamb was therefore not Hector’s choice today, instead it was Keema Peas (£5.30) with a Chapatti (£0.80). Unsurprisingly, Marg opted for the same.

Don’t give me too much – was Marg’s plea. As a compromise, Rizwan said he would – put it on his. He also suggested that he add some of the Masala from the Lamb to give it a kick. Marg would have the Keema Peas as served normally.

We took our spot at the fat man’s table. Despite being close to closing time, there were ten other diners present. It makes me wonder why Kabana closes at 17.00.

The Order was brought to the table accompanied by the three pots of foliage. As usual, Hector went to town, Marg showed self restraint.

I saw a chap have two Naans with his Curry. How anyone could eat all that Bread still puzzles. Anyway, the Naan looked wonderful, risen, light and fluffy. I was wishing I had ordered a Naan, but when I started on my Chapatti I was gobsmacked. It has been a while since I’ve had a Kabana (Northern Quarter) Chapatti. Wholemeal, risen, despite the perforations which are ubiquitous in Manchester Bread, this Chapatti was the lightest, freshest, fluffiest I have ever had. Every morsel was eaten. I believe I managed to take a photo of the Bread Chef as I departed.

Keema Peas

The standard, before the addition of moderate foliage.

Keema Peas a la Rizwan

Smothered in Masala, this of course would change the nature of the Curry. Normally the driest of Curry, this made my Keema Peas quite moist. The aim was – to give a kick.

Along with the added Green Chillies, this goal was certainly achieved. The Seasoning was there. The Coriander added a further blast of Flavour, the diced Ginger added a crunch also. We both noted how fine the Keema had been ground, quite a difference from British Mince.

Good as this Curry was, it wasn’t Karahi Lamb, on-the-bone. Tomorrow.

Marg was finished long before me such was the imbalance in the portion size. Her verdict:

Finely minced lamb, with a lovely, fluffy, hot Chapatti. A small kick, and a very moreish dish.

Marg could have had more, simply by not asking for less.

As we finished, the last customer of the day took a seat diagonally opposite. He then stood up and approached us. We had seen each other before, today it was time for introductions. Des was having Desi Curry, Chicken Tikka with Masala from the another pot. The foliage was brought to his table also.

Des follows Curry-Heute and so was finally glad to engage. He mentioned Sheffield becoming a bit of a Curry Desert since the closing of Lahori Dhera. I was able to inform him that the premises have become Wicker Kebabish, a worthy successor. There’s also Apna Style.

I asked if he knew anything about Manchester’s Dera which may have closed. Alas, not. Somebody, somewhere, must know what has happened there.

Des is visiting Glasgow soon. Sadly his company may not be ready for the outstanding Curry Cafes such as Yadgar and Karahi Palace. I have suggested The Village “Curry House” followed by ale at the State Bar. The Village Desi Kourma (spicy) should suit his palate. Our paths may well cross again.

The Bill

£12.20    For two.

The Aftermath

The recent visit to the other Kabana (Cheetham Hill) was discussed with Rizwan. The significant difference between Quail and Chicken was highlighted. I expressed my appreciation of the quality Masala which accompanied. However, his brother’s Karahi Lamb does not match that served here in the Northern Quarter.

Today, I did not have Karahi Lamb. Tomorrow I shall, and go and see IQ.

What could possibly follow that?

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Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – Lahore Lunch + Pakora Reinvented

The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA) was recently closed for refurbishment. I phoned last night to verify that they had reopened. Today, the Lahore Lunchtime Menu, slumming it after the comparative excess at Lahori Chaska last Friday.

Crossing the – Squiggly Bridge – the imposing Barclay’s Building appears to be in full swing, but there was no still no sign of the hungry hordes descending upon the Tradeston venues, perhaps I was too late? I did spot a new African Restaurant in the building behind Sholeh Persian. The Nigerian Spicy Beef Stew is always worth seeking out, the rubbery African Flatbread, maybe not.

Signing in for Track & Trace, we’re still doing this? It’s a year to the day when the Vaccine Minister told us emphatically that the UK would not be introducing Vaccine Passports. Well of course they did, so why not use them across the board to enter premises, as is the norm presently in Deutschland and Hellas/Greece?

Had I been given the Main Menu, I would probably have been tempted to order from that. At 14.15, the Lunchtime Menu still had fifteen minutes to run. Afghan Chicken Bites, never had these, interesting.

Once upon a time, I was offered Palak Gosht in the Lunch Menu. The simplicity of the current list leaves Lamb Curry as the only Hector Curry option. If other variants are possible, why not make this clear? I did take the – on-the-bone – option at an extra £1.50. A pint glass of chilled tap water was secured.

During the wait, I counted eighteen fellow diners, not bad for this time on a Monday afternoon. In time, The Village should be packed every day. Apart from more tables for two in the main dining area, I struggled to identify the changes after refurbishment.

Eventually, I realised that the Takeaway area had been blocked off with food cabinets. There was no sign of the previously discussed food pans for quick service. Then I saw the tiles on the outside wall, and another exit, however, that could easily have been there previously. The bottom line is: The Village Takeaway is on Nelson Street, the Restaurant is absolutely on West Street.

Afghan Chicken Bites

Three large pieces of a Red Pakora were accompanied by Salad nibbles and a Chilli Dip. Sesame Seeds were to the fore in addition to the – Red. On breaking the first piece open, I concluded that this indeed was Pakora reinvented. I could see a Vegetable Mash and no sign of Chicken, which actually pleased. I am not a fan of Chicken Pakora, after all, it’s just Chicken in batter. OK, Fish Pakora is the same idea, but what a difference the softer texture makes. Here too was a soft Mash of Vegetable and Chicken-somewhere, giving an astonishing depth of Flavour. The Spice was significant and further enhanced by the Chilli Dip. Three pieces, already I was wishing I had six. The third piece had a visible piece of Chicken, but was still surrounded by the tasty, crusty coating. Excellent, and the Sesame Seeds were a wonderful addition. The next time I make Pakora, I shall dip the Mash in Sesame Seeds.

Lamb Curry

Two simple words – Lamb Curry – not Hector’s usual go to selection. The Sucky Bones were a welcome sight, quality Meat. The Spice Level was adequate, the palate was already tingling after the Starter. Seasoning was not an issue, yet the hoped for – Classic Village Curry – taste was not forthcoming. This was closer to Mainstream Curry than Desi. The Shorva-esque Masala was absorbed by the Rice, for once – more Masala – would have been welcome.

With about six decent sized pieces of Meat, four on-the-bone, there was just enough to make this a meal. I was left with the feeling that for 35p more, I could have had a full-on portion of Karahi Lamb, with a Chapatti, a few metres along the road at Karahi Palace.

The Bill

£9.45   I can’t help thinking back to last Monday’s feast.

The Aftermath

Here’s the new exit, and the iconic entrance to the Takeaway on Nelson Street.

 

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Glasgow – Lahori Chaska – Visit #1

Lahori Chaska (571 Cathcart Rd., Glasgow G42 8SG), an addition to Glasgow’s Southside Curry Cafes, and as the name of the venue suggests, Desi Cuisine is to the fore. Mein Host would tell me they have been established for a year. Limits to movement during Covid and their former rest days, combined to make it so long for Hector to investigate. Lahori Chaska presently operates seven days a week with a noon opening time. At weekends they open at 10.00 to serve Haleem/Paya/Nehari for those who can face these – delicacies – that early in the day. I will not be rushing across the river for these any time soon.

Michael, who last appeared in Curry-Heute for – Yagdar #100 – joined Hector this afternoon. I arrived some minutes before the 15.30 rendezvous to survey the scene. What looks like a former shop unit has been revamped with tiles aplenty. The open kitchen gives way to the dining room at the rear where twenty can be sat in plenty of space. There’s also another table for four at the shop window.

I was led to the dining room and invited to take the table at the rear. Having spotted nobody else on the premises, I had to ask:

Your Chef is here to cook?

This was verified, I was invited to come up to the counter to order when ready. All was well.

The laminated menu was on the table. Having seen a large karahi in another source, I was hoping to share the kilo of a Desi Karahi. Alas, this was not on the menu. Instead, a choice of two: Lahori Lamb Karahi and Lahori Charsi Karahi.

At £17.99 a portion, appreciably more than the Chicken (£10.99), the half kilo was assumed, and soon verified. To my knowledge, £35.98 is the most expensive kilo of Karahi Gosht in the city, surpassing The Village (£34.95).

Michael was happy to follow my lead and would replicate my Order. Firstly, I had to establish the difference between the two Karahi. One has Yoghurt, the other does not and is more tangy. I asked for the Yoghurt version which adds that extra bit of mystery to the Masala. Decisions, decisions, foregoing the – Charsi – or Afghani Cuisine also goes against the grain. There was no mention of bones, a half kilo of Boneless Karahi would be real challenge. An above medium Spice Level was agreed.

Plain Paratha (£1.99) and cans of Mango Rubicon (£1.49) completed the Order. It was 15.40, as Michael said, hopefully the meal would not come too quickly. It was 16.05 when the food was served. In the meantime, another chap had taken a seat and ordered Soup and a Curry whose style I could not establish.

When not in in Blighty, Michael can oft be found in Turkey. I asked for an update about their Cuisine. Surely they have more than the ubiquitous – Grill – which sadly is taking over in Hellas/Greece? One of Michael’s favourite Turkish Dishes – Trotters in a Shorba – he has found in worker’s cafes. I pointed to the menu, – Paya, they serve that here. Shorba/Shorva, a soup by definition. The similarities in the language of food spreads from the Middle East to the Indian Subcontinent. I feel an Afghani Karahi coming soon, Namkeen or otherwise.

The Wholemeal Paratha were huge. Layered, flaky and featured – the spiral. A bit greasy initially, the butteriness calmed down. Close to being the Perfect Paratha, the volume would become an issue around the halfway point. This Paratha was too good not to eat.

 

Lahori Lamb Karahi

Let the size of the karahi not mislead. This karahi was filled with Meat and an appropriate quantity of Masala. There was relief when my fork hit a bone. I would manage all that lay before me.

Hot food is always a plus, this was sizzling. The peripheral Oil was collecting around the edge of the karahi, the Masala was certainly Tomato-rich if not Tomato-based. This was a classic Karahi Gosht.

The Coriander and Ginger Toppings were a bit stingy, more foliage please. With sliced Green Chillies stirred in, the Spice Level was as asked for. The Seasoning was a tad below – how Hector likes it. In terms of Flavour, this Karahi approached the monotone. It had Flavour, and it’s frustrating when this self-declared Curry Guru cannot identify it. Tomato may have been that which dominated. The full roundness of Flavour I described in Monday’s Karela Gosht at Yadgar was decidedly lacking.

One Sucky Bone, a few other cuts also, the quantity of Meat was manageable, my first half kilo of 2022. The Lamb varied in quality, Tender to down right – chewy. In terms of giving or taking Flavour from the Masala, this Meat was closer to the latter.

So what did we have here? This was a worthy Desi Karahi, but well short of giving the – Wow! Where was the rich, mellow Flavour attained by adding Yoghurt? This Karahi definitely had more of a – tang.

Mein Host appeared mid-room accompanied by the Chef, his father, I would ascertain later. Moments like this make a meal memorable, that personal touch which some venues never present. Both were keen to hear our verdicts.

Your Karahi is good and your Paratha is excellent – satisfied them both.

Despite not having introduced Curry-Heute, I took the opperchancity to ask for a photo of Chef.

Once more, a memorable moment.

 

 

Michael was first finished, his karahi wiped clean, his words:

Excellent, just the right spice level.

Later, as we headed west, Michael qualified his statement. This was in comparison to Mainstream Curry, Madras, Vindaloo, etc.

How had I eaten all the Paratha, bar a scrap, and all this Karahi Gosht? Nay breakfast!

The Bill

£21.50 each.

The Aftermath

Finally I introduced the Curry-Heute website. I was thanked for having crossed the city to visit Lahori Chaska. When it was established that we are near neighbours I suddenly felt the feeling of deja vu. I have had this conversation before. But where, when, and with whom?

The window had a flashing advert:

For sale – only business, not property.

What this is all about?

I didn’t ask.

To be continued…

Update  –  March 2023

Lahori Chaska has gone, meanwhile, down the road, Shahi Mahal has appeared.

 

2022 Menu

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Glasgow – Yadgar Kebab House – Treated like Royalty, again

One currently chooses to go to Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) unannounced, at the Monday (14.00) opening time, taking a chance on what’s available in the Daily Specials. Hector & co. have only managed one indulgent sit-in, kilo-plus, of the legendary Goshat Karahi, since the start of the Covid era. That the dining room at Yadgar was closed for a year during this period, has also been responsible for the change in visiting pattern.

Shkoor, Mein Host, did the double take when Marg and Hector entered at 14.10. This was the first time we three have shared this space since June last year. On that day, Hector and Marg were invited to dine as guests. There is no shame when Shkoor treats us, has anyone else posted one hundred and thirty reviews of this venerable establishment?

I know what you’re having! – declared Shkoor, as I surveyed all on display.

What am I having? – was the response, as all I could see was a mass of Vegetable Dishes.

Karela Gosht, with some Potato-Aubergine on the side.

With one Chapatti, please.

Karela, in the early years of this Blog, Hector could not get enough Karela, the – bitter gourd. As and when, is sufficient, presently.

Marg had her customary – I’m not having Curry – thoughts as we drove across the river. Pakora and Samosas would be her usual fallback. I reminded Marg of the wonderful Yadgar – Chapli Kebab. Marg spotted the Shami Kebab, nowhere near as good IMHO, but asked for Chapli. Shkoor lifted a cover, behold. Two were ordered, and some Mango Rubicon. Sparkling Water has vanished, ah the halcyon days, of last summer.

We took the window seat, the heater below, a necessary and much appreciated addition after the recent refurbishment. Naveed arrived for the shift, good to see him back.

Shkoor joined us for a chat, the events of the last two years were prominent in the conversation. Yadgar was Takeaway only for much of this time, Shkoor appreciates that they were able to maintain their business. People having become reliant on – Delivery – was discussed. That I cannot believe I see so many cyclists delivering food around the city centre at lunchtimes, was raised. Can people not go out to their nearest butcher, baker, candlestick-maker? Shkoor mentioned those who complain that their food has cooled whilst the delivery driver/cyclist fetches their order. Then they no doubt go on social media and complain – I proffered.

Today’s chat was commensurate with those held with other restaurateurs in recent months. People appear to have become stuck in their homes when this is no longer necessary. Get out and support your local bar, cafe, restaurant, – directly, in person. They miss you!

A rather splendid Salad was presented first, a bit of everything, plus the two classic Dips. This meant that when the Chapli Kebab arrived, there was no need for further garnish.

Chapli Kebab

Chicken-based, Spicy and Earthy, is there a finer example of the genre served in Glasgow? A half-kebap came in my direction. Hector always likes to share (emoticon understood).

Marg offered a few familiar words:

They were spicy, flavoursome and went well with the yoghurt (Raita), went down well with everything.

I was finishing my last bits when the Curry arrived. The wholemeal Chapatti seemed unusually huge. I could easily have foregone this, but traditions have to be sustained.

*

Karela Gosht

With a liberal Topping of Coriander, the Lamb, cooked on-the-bone, sat in the Masala Mash. This Mash was decidedly different from the Masala which accompanies the Goshat Karahi. Prominent in the Mash were strips of what, at first glance, appeared to be Onion, but no, there were signs of the green skin. This was the abundant Karela. An acquired taste, not for everyone, anticipation was all.

I started with the Meat, not my usual approach. The immediate blast of Flavour, or the definitive – Yadgar Taste – as I have called this over the last decade, hit the palate, joy of joys. Within a nanosecond, the Bitterness of the Karela hit hard. Wow! There’s nothing else like this.

Aloo Baingan

The volume of Potato stood out. On cooking Aubergine in this manner, it must turn to mush, which itself becomes part of the Minimal Masala. Not necessarily the most visually appealing of Dishes, I wonder how many come to Yadgar in the hope of ordering Aloo Baingan? Aloo Gobi, yes, Hector included, this was something different, all part of the tapestry of the Cuisine from the Indian Subcontinent.

Shkoor believed that this was my first serving of this comparatively rare Curry. However, on consulting a well known and reliable Curry Blog, it was revealed that Hector and Marg  had previously enjoyed this Eggplant & Potato Curry at the height of Lockdown. Marg’s Hockey responsibilities permitted her to cross the city boundary and fetch a huge Yadgar Takeaway on her return journey. Essential shopping!

The Potato had the correct Texture, the Aubergine, mush. The blast of Flavour took me back. Here it was again, that so distinctive Flavour, it deserves to be classed as a – Taste. Shkoor was passing by as I commenced. Once more I expressed my wonder at how such an intensity of, and distinct, Flavour can be attained without a Meat stock, but they do.

Shkoor was going out for supplies.

Ah, you’re off to buy more of the packets from which you make your Masala – I jested. Marg thought I had gone too far, but she has not been present at all of the hundred plus visits to Yadgar. Maybe I had just planted a thought. Shkoor’s response, before he retires, he should try and market that which makes a Yadgar Curry so special.

Can I come and work in the kitchen for a week please?

As he took his leave, Shkoor offered Marg – Peshwari Tea – another treat, but not for Hector who might appreciate the Cardamom, but not the milkiness.

Back at the Lamb, Tender, full of Flavour, or indeed with, – The Yadgar Taste – hanging in there. The – Bitterness – was way less than eye-watering, a counterpoint to the comparatively – Sweeter – and rounder tastes from the Masala.

When consciously eating the Aubergine, the mushiness aside, it was again the delivery of Flavour which stood out. As an accompaniment to the Potato, this was a foil ingredient in this Concept Curry.

Mouth-feel, a term borrowed from Craft Beer, is what made today’s unique combination a standout. Spice and Seasoning one could almost take for granted. A warming, roundness of pleasure, sat on the palate. Glorious, wonderful Curry.

The Peshwari Tea arrived at the very end.

Hot, creamy, with Pistachio Nuts, lovely tastes – Marg relayed.

The Bill

Money did change hands. If I had a Rabbi, I wouldn’t tell him how little.

The Boss said – insisted Naveed.

The Aftermath

Over the weekend, on a certain social medium, I saw a post regarding Glasgow’s top Indian restaurant. What has been written since the start of Curry-Heute maintains (paragraph two): if people want to go to the same restaurant and have the same meal every week, so be it, But don’t tell me that’s the best venue in our honoured city.

Who has actually been to every Glasgow Curry House and is therefore qualified to answer? Hector remains about three short of having achieved this. Since 2010, for Hector it remains Yadgar Kebab House.

Who remembers Akbar on Cochrane St. circa 1975?

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – Outrageously Spectacular!

Yesterday, Curryspondent Archie sent me the photo above right:

Recognise this place?

Will be there tomorrow – was the reply. I went on to establish that Chef Rashid was on duty and all was well. Archie sent me a photo of his meal – Karahi Lamb – (£9.00). Who takes a photo of their dinner and sends it to a friend? How jejune!

Outrageously spectacular! – was Archie’s verdict. When we last dined here together for – Karahi Palace #100 – Archie had Palak Gosht. Maybe he has come to accept that the Karahi Gosht  is the signature Curry. Perhaps it is Hector who is stuck in a rut? One day the dishes on display may tempt me to have something else.

Other distractions, including a weekend in Bradford for Curry, prevented my December visit to Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ). Today, being the last Saturday in the month, I was determined not to miss out again.

Arriving at 15.20, Ayaz, Mein Host, was in Rashid’s spot, he would be Chef for the day. Shery was front of house as has become the norm, he calls everyone – Boss. On taking the  seat adjacent to that which Archie occupied yesterday, Shery came over to take the Order. I decided to keep things simple and have my usual Chapatti (£0.80) as accompaniment, though leaving half a Naan had gone through my mind on the journey here. A jug of tap water was brought to the table. What was this strange vessel, containing a white powder, sat before me?

Karahi Lamb

Still sizzling in the black karahi, I knew care would have to be taken. Hot food is what I seek, it can only cool. Tepid food never warms. The wholemeal Chapatti was just what I needed, enough to act as conveyor of Meat and Masala, I would eat all but a scrap.

Behold the – foliage triumvirate! Ginger Strips, Coriander Leaves & Stems plus sliced Green Chillies, sat on top of the Tomato-rich Masala. Whole Green Chillies were embedded, that the Spice Level would satisfy was never in doubt. At Karahi Palace, they know about the importance of Seasoning. With Spice and Seasoning pitched perfectly, the cooling Karahi was there to be devoured.

One can see the Tomato pulp in the Masala, how this Texture is achieved is still beyond me. Proud as I am of my own – Lahori Karahi – creation earlier this week, today’s was in a different league. The hot Oil was just enough, acceptable, wonderful for dipping. The Meat was remarkably Tender. I found a Sucky Bone, all my boxes were being ticked. Only three more pieces of bone were unearthed, plenty of Lamb in this Karahi.

I upped my notes on the Spice Level to – intense. This was never in detriment to the distinctive – Karahi Palace Taste – that permeated this Curry. The delivery chap was popping in and out, he sought a – thumbs up – to confirm my enjoyment. Enjoyment? This was pleasure in the extreme, maybe that’s why I don’t come here every week. It is always tempting to do so.

The Bill

£9.80   We appear to have settled on this price.

The Aftermath

The delivery chap had taken the table opposite, he was tucking in. He was keen to show me his Curry. As he found the words for sheep and feet, I interjected with – Paya. He asked if I’d had it.

I’m not a fan of – Trotters, and I prefer a Thick Masala to Shorva.

Undeterred, he was keen that I should be having this Dish. He made a gesture which I shall not describe but understood, apparently Paya is an aphrodisiac. So it goes.

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