Glasgow – Deira Lahore – Catching up with Waris

Posted on June 19, 2021 by Hector

The first port of call on my Saturday afternoon wandering was Deira Lahore (641 Cathcart Road, Crosshill, Glasgow G42 8AE). I have been doing this periodically but most recently, if recent is appropriate, visits have not fulfilled their purpose: to say – hi – to one of Glasgow’s understated Chefs – Waris.

The man himself was front of house as I entered, the reception was warm, sincere, the single customer waiting for his order must have wondered – wtf? Whilst Waris sorted his Takeaway, I examined the Curry on display. Despite the fact that I was meeting Marg at Yadgar shortly for a feast, it felt churlish not to put some cash into the coffers of Deira Lahore.

Aloo Gosht (£5.99) and Keema Aloo Mutter (£4.99) looked like the best of what was available, I will admit to believing I saw (wrongly) Aubergine in the Lamb Curry melange. Waris held up two sizes of container, Hector went – large.

The Bill

£12.00   Large portions.

The Aftermath

Thereafter we managed to chat. Waris insisted I photograph his colleague – the Chef – so presumably what I had just purchased was not cooked by my friend.

On previous visits I have been aware of a small table in the corner, sitting in was possible, albeit a squeeze. Today, the seating gave the impression that they are more serious about accommodating diners. Waris agreed he would cook for me by arrangement, and suggested I bring friends, but not too many. I mentioned – Namkeen Karahi – as this is something Waris does particularly well, however, on studying the Deira Lahore Menu, I see there is Fish Karahi.

Can Hector resist a Fish Karahi? Could it be the definitive example of what I have been searching for all these years in Glasgow? At the hands of Waris it may well turn out to be.

The reviews of my Takeaway follow below, in the meantime I wish to highlight that Deira Lahore is open at 10.00 daily with – Desi Nashta – served on a Saturday and Sunday. Asian Style Specialities – include Paya and Haleem for those who enjoy that sort of thing. For Hector, Aloo Gobi may well suffice.

Monday – Aloo Gosht

I don’t know what caught the light and made me think – aubergine. Possibly a large piece of Cinnamon? The presence of – Sucky Bones – was the big plus here, hopes for something beyond – decent – were raised.

Whilst the karahi was in the oven, I set about making some Fried Rice with Onion and Mushrooms, two portions, enough for tomorrow also.

The Shorva soaked into the Rice, this is how I prefer to have a Curry with a Soupy Masala, it also spares the laundry bill when Chapattis are involved. The big – Spice hit – took me a bit by surprise, good for something off the shelf, as it were. The level of Seasoning I marked down as being – OK. The Meat varied from mostly Soft to Tender, some chewing required, and the portion was plentiful. The Potatoes is where the full – Desi Curry – was revealed, here much more Flavour was revealed. Ah, the humble Potato, such a major player in the enjoyment of a Curry.

Desi – this Curry most certainly was, but nothing earth shattering. It were awright – as they say in Yorkshire, is how I felt whilst eating this Curry, however, towards the end, something happened. The sense of satisfaction kept growing, the Seasoning became more prominent, the Potatoes? Hector’s palate was in a very good place for a full hour after finishing. Remarkable.

Tuesday – Keema Aloo Mutter

This Curry was – Wet. I note that Deira Lahore do a Lamb Mince Karahi (£6.99), this was not it, this was – Curry. So much so, it was reheated on the hob, no worries here about losing precious moisture. As with the Aloo Gosht, Mushroom Rice would accompany.

Spice? Where was it. Seasoning? Nope. Flavours? Had I been served this as Mince, Potatoes and Peas, it would have been acceptable, as a Curry I have to ask – really?

An infusion of Cloves would have kick-started this Curry, Cumin, Herbs too, sorry, this did nothing for me.

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Glasgow – Akbar’s – By Request

Posted on June 16, 2021 by Hector

Chapatti John declared his desire to visit Akbar’s (573-581 Sauchiehall Street G3 7PQ) as soon as. Despite the many new Curry experiences which Hector has introduced to John in recent years, this remains his favourite Curry House in Glasgow. Dr. Stan was on board, he may be returning to form.

I arrived minutes before the 17.00 opening time and rendezvous. The door was unlocked, so in I went. Imran was there to greet me by name, there was no booking. I was led to a window table, by the time we departed, all window tables would be occupied. Window dressing, it always amuses.

I told Imran I was down in Bradford a week ago. He asked if I went to Akbar’s.

Why would I visit Akbar’s in Bradford? – and went on to recite the venues I had gone to.

The chaps were punctual, drinks were sorted: Sparkling Water (£2.25) for Hector, a Fresh Orange Juice (£2.50) for Dr. Stan and a standard glass of Red Wine (£4.25) for John. He had considered going large, but at double the price, he felt as if he should be getting the bottle.

Poppadoms? No thanks. Poppadoms? No thanks. Poppadoms? No thanks.

If Imran really wanted us to have Poppadoms, he should have sent them to the table as per the Dips. A positive feature of dining at Akbar’s which sometimes becomes a negative, is the intensity of service. The staff are trained to be attentive, but they can be relentless. Do people give in to this pressure to add extra pounds to their bill from the start? A rhetorical question.

Lamb Chops (£4.45), the best value Chops in the country, possibly, Hector cannot resist. John was nearly on board but changed his mind to Mixed Kebab (£5.25). For Dr. Stan, the obligatory Seekh Kebab (£4.00).

It’s years since I last had the Roshan Lal (£10.45), I made sure the dreaded Capsicum would be withheld. John and Dr. Stan both chose Karahi Gosht and Spinach (£8.95), nothing new there. John said he would limit himself to an initial three Chapatis (£0.75), Dr. Stan would manage one. For Hector, a Coriander and Chilli Naan (£2.95). All Mains were asked for in the – Asian Style. If one doesn’t, a lesser Curry is served. That is the way it is, even in Bradford.

As the window tables filled up, and food brought to those who arrived quite a bit after us, the forty five minute wait for Starters began to feel excessive. Eventually, the familiar sound of a sizzling platter was heard approaching.

Lamb Chops

Four Chunky Chops, all for me, always an extra special treat. The extremities were cremated to perfection, and the Meat cooked through also. Easily the best Lamb Chops served to Hector this year. The Spicy marinade clung to the Meat, tasty. All the pleasures of gnawing at bones, a dental appointment is due next week, Hector was taking chances.

Seekh Kebab

The Menu says – Chicken – this was hard to believe given the dark colouring. Again, these must have been well fired, and look at the size of them.

I enjoyed that – Dr. Stan offered spontaneously – they are good.

Has a year of Lockdown turned Dr. Stan into a chatterbox?

Mixed Kebab

One Chapli and one Seekh Kebab, plus two large Bhaji/Pakora. I would have expected more, even one Lamb Chop. Why the Bhaji? Whilst John enjoyed it, I suspect he knew his fellow diners had chosen better.

The wait until the arrival of the Mains was not too long, we were already late for our 18.00 slot at State Bar. Imran himself helped bring the Order.

The Naan is always a standout. No way could one man finish this, today Hector had two helpers. Having assured John that he could assist with the Naan after devouring his three Chapattis, he was up up for it. Even Dr. Stan got in on the act.

For the first time, at a table occupied by Hector, the Naan was finished.

Roshan Lal

The young waiter had come back moments after ordering to confirm I wanted Meat and not Chicken. The Menu clearly says Meat, this Dish would be pointless in Chicken.

The small cut Meat, in the Bradford Style, was covered in more Masala than one has in a Karahi. This is what I was after, three intense days in Bradford had put me off Lamb and Bread. Here was Hector, fully recovered, dipping copious pieces of the light and fluffy Naan into the rich Masala. The Herb-taste of Bradford was prominent, that is why I was here. The Spice hit hard, Asian style, this is what you get. The Seasoning was a good bit below the hoped for level, but let’s not have that spoil the moment.

Sliced Green Chillies and cooked Tomato were encountered deep down into the karahi, there was no let up in the – kick – therefore. When I had to wave the Naan flag, it was Meat and Masala only, not Hector’s ideal scenario, but payback for the Bread indulgence. John eats differently, he makes a sandwich with his Chapattis, The Man from Bradford and Hector both apply the Bread-pouch filled with Masala approach.

Karahi Gosht and Spinach

Served Bradford-dry, this has been John and Dr. Stan’s go to Curry at Akbar’s for some time. Hector had it on his birthday earlier this year. Masala with Spinach, the preferred interpretation, and again small cut Meat.

John was pleased that – bones – are not an issue here, he can eat all that is served. John concluded that this Curry was still right up there with the very best. The – still – was perhaps a nod to the many venues I have introduced him to. Dr. Stan concurred.

This may be the time to mention that Yadgar is open once again – to dine in.

The Bill

£57.00   Drinks, Starters and Mains, excellent value, excellent fayre.

The Aftermath

Not that Hector was ever a regular at Koh-I-Noor, but it is sad to see the premises boarded up. I was later reliably informed that Indian Gallery will not re-open. The World Buffet also on Sauchiehall St. is boarded up too. I bet the family of the Rawalpindi may come to see the error of their ways, if the story I was told holds true.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – Maestro Chef Rashid, he knows you know

Posted on June 12, 2021 by Hector

A Saturday afternoon-evening in Glasgow, a pleasure once taken for granted, a pleasure denied through Lockdown and travel restrictions for over eight months. A warm and sunny day, summer may be imminent, George Square was quiet apart from some guy peddling his take on whichever deity he thought we should be following through whatever manner he decreed. The masses were assembled in Buchanan Street, I have not seen so many people in the flesh, as it were, for so long. Clydeside is becoming unrecognisable, on both banks, tall buildings under construction, yet footfall here remains almost non-existent. Köln, Berlin, Paris, Glasgow is not.

Footfall in Tradeston may change within the year when the Barclay’s campus is completed, enjoying a quiet meal at Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) is something I shall not be taking for granted in future. Karahi Palace quite simply produce one of the finest examples of Karahi Gosht encountered anywhere on the planet, one day the many will discover that this is so.

Dr. Stan and Hector had a 14.30 rendezvous, only the Good Doctor’s second Curry out this year. He was soaked en route to The Village last time, not today. Taking my preferred seat, I was greeted by Chef Rashid, Maestro Rashid. I confirmed my Order but told him I was waiting for a friend. Dr. Stan was punctual as always.

The Menu is available on request. I note that none of the major Curry Dishes are listed on the display boards above the counter, that is for Kebaps etc. I was pleased to see the – Curry-Heute #100 – framed certificate was back in its place. Rashid recited the Curry on display to Dr. Stan who then accepted he was having what Hector was having: Lamb Karahi (£8.90) and a Chapatti (£0.70). He withdrew to his cooking spot then emerged a moment later:

Same salt, same methi?

Thumbs up – he knows you know.

We nibbled on the Salad, cherry-picking it before Rashid offered us – the white sauce. Another chap, whom I did not recognise was assisting Rashid. With plates, cutlery in situ, it was time. Chef Rashid was happy for the moment to be captured.

Karahi Lamb

A Sizzling Hot Karahi, the Lemon Wedge was a new addition, the chance to squeeze on some Citrus, yum. Syboes, Ginger Strips and Coriander were accompanied by slices of the large Green Chillies, chances were, the latter would be cooking in the peripheral Oil. Large, plentiful, pieces of Lamb, some on-the-bone, were smothered in what I have long deduced is a Tomato-based Masala. This Masala was not red, but Burgundy, even visually, the richness oozed.

*

Two Chapattis, one each, enough, these were substantial, not of the species abundant in Bradford. The first dip into the peripheral Oily Masala sets up that which follows. The Flavours hit hard, the Seasoning guaranteed this, then there’s the Herbs, Methi Man!

The Meat had everything, soft bits, chewy, and Flavour. One cannot help be mystified as to why so many venues serve Meat where Spice has not been given a chance to permeate. The taste of Lamb itself came across.

Towards the base of the karahi, as with my last visit, the taste of burnt Tomato, the Masala was still cooking on the table, and the Seasoning, and the Spice, and the Flavours, it was all happening here.

In the midst of all this, Chef Rashid brought a jug of Tap Water:

Rashid, this is magnificent! – I assured him. More smiles. The added joy of the Curry Cafe when Chef is also front of house.

Hector’s Karahi was – wolfed down. For years the pace of eating has been slowing towards a snails pace. This was – easy eating.

Dr. Stan, renowned for his – Mmmmms, uttered a statement beyond anything he has contributed in the last decade:

That was glorious!

(A) very rich blend of spices.

This is Karahi Gosht at Karahi Palace. One day, the mob shall descend upon it, change is inevitable. Enjoy as it is, whilst one can.

The Bill

£19.20 The card machine was not working today, there was a bold sign at the counter to make this clear.

The Aftermath

Rashid’s – assistant – was sitting out front having a cup of tea.

Rashid is a wonderful Chef – I assured him.

Through broken English, the following minutes astonished. This was no assistant, but the Chef from Sheerin Palace, who apparently works in the mornings only.  He was here to see his friend. I had to compliment him on his Kofta Anda, but also get in my dig about why he does not prepare enough … cf – In Search of Kofta Anda.

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Glasgow – Darbar Grill – In Search of Kofta Anda

Posted on June 9, 2021 by Hector

Darbar Grill (140 Allison St. Glasgow G42 8RP) is not where Hector planned to have Curry-Heute, however, it proved to be a worthy fallback.

It’s Wednesday, and the chaps are meeting – inside a Glasgow pub – at 18.00. Wee Nippy – said back in October she was closing pubs for two weeks. The last eight months has been the longest fortnight Hector has ever endured.

Wednesday and Saturdays, Kofta Anda day at Sheerin Palace, also on Allison Street. Arriving with Marg, just before 17.00, only three Meatballs were left in the tray, no Eggs. The customer before me may have purchased the last portion. The serving chap smiled as he told me it had gone. Hector was not amused, if Kofta Anda is sold out before teatime, then surely they need to prepare more?

We had parked near Spice Haven, worryingly, the shutters were still down, and they claim to open daily at noon. I haven’t seen anything from them on a certain social medium lately, surely not, again?

We walked round to Calder Street in the off chance that Yadgar’s renovations were complete. Not yet. Shkoor assures us he will announce when they are open once more for sitting in.

And so to Darbar Grill, reliably open all day, to see what was on offer. Ahmed, once the Chef at Sheerin Palace, cooked a very fine – Desi Style Karahi – for John and Hector last month. I do not recall ever seeing Kofta Anda here.

There was Chicken Keema Aloo (£5.00) on display which became Marg’s choice along with the usual Chapatti.

For Hector it was once more back to basics. Ahmed’s son talked me through the other trays on display. Aloo Gosht (£6.00) it would be, with Basmati (£2.49) to accompany. Hector still feels Breaded-out. The Daal looked irresistible, I asked for a small portion.

One other diner sat at the rear, to give him space, we sat in the main room. Darbar still has the appearance of being not quite finished décor wise. A jug of Tap Water and a Modest Salad were brought to the table. 

The reheat did not take long, the Chapatti was freshly made.

Chicken Keema Aloo

Chicken always looks pale in comparison to Lamb Mince. This Keema was suitably – Dry – and so was served in the authentic Desi-style. No sooner had Marg begun when a second Chapatti was brought. OK, she might manage a bit. When the third Chapatti arrived, it had to be declined. Fine, we were being well looked after, but we do try not to waste food. Marg’s verdict:

A notable change of flavour with the Chicken Keema, a coriander kick, but will not change my preferred minced lamb. It was tasty enough, OK. I was hungry, I ate it all.

Aloo Gosht

Five pieces of Meat were visible as I decanted the Lamb and Shorva. Having done so, a sixth, and sizeable piece of Lamb on-the-bone was encountered. This was a larger portion than I have been served here compared to a couple of years back when bringing Mother here was a semi-regular occurrence. Two large bits of Potato were also included which means that by rotating the plate, I managed to make it look as though the Hector was not diving back into an indulgence in Lamb, just yet.

The Lamb was melt-in-the-mouth, so well cooked. The Seasoning was below my personal preference, however, the Spice and Flavours from the Shorva were up to scratch. As hoped for, the Potatoes had absorbed so much Flavour from the Soupy Masala, they were excellent.

There is always an inward wry smile of contentedness, if not contradiction, when I order a Shorva. Serve me this in a Mainstream Curry House and I would be tempted to throw the toys out of the pram. Take me to a Desi Cafe and all is well. The traditional, if not now – old-fashioned Curry taste – is still appreciated.

Daal Makhani

I’m calling it – Makhani – due to the colour, a straightforward (Tarka) Daal would be lighter, closer to the colour of Marg’s Keema. Marg took a Soupçon, that was enough for her. Cough – this had a serious – kick. With the Earthy Flavour, what a beautiful accompaniment this was to the Aloo Gosht. Two simple Dishes working in harmony, and despite Rice and Daal probably being a – no-no – with the Shorva, all was well.

The Bill

£14.00 One day there will be a printed Menu and I’ll be able to itemise the components. The online Menu would have included four Roti with the above order.

The Aftermath

We had only seen Ahmed briefly today, his son did look after us well and remarked that he looked forward to reading my review.

Something I picked up, almost by chance. This makes two Curryspondents who have written to Hector in the last couple of weeks to approve –

The Curry-Heute Campaign.

Succinct, moi?

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Bradford – Sultan Restaurant – Just Re-opened!

Posted on June 6, 2021 by Hector

Around noon, Steve agreed to go for a walk, the destination: Sultan Restaurant (219 Manningham Lane, Bradford, BD8 7HH England). I had phoned already to ensure they were open, Punjab Sweet House & Grill Centre, a walk in the opposite direction, told me they were open for Takeaway only.

A vigorous walk took us up the hill past Forster Square station towards Valley Parade. The bus shelter is the landmark for Sultan. I noted the sign outside with the opening times and warning stickers re the price increase. Sultan, when it’s open, is open all day which is always to Hector’s advantage. Beware of Friday prayers and Monday & Tuesday closing.

QR code check-in done, we took a booth on the right, two chaps to our left were finishing off. A young waiter brought us the Menu, jug of Tap Water, Salad and a Dip, no messing about here. He told us to call him when we were ready. I can now appreciate the Menu prices remain as on my last visit in 2018 when I had the – wonderful – Fish Karahi -. so everything is now £1.00 more?

Fish Karahi (£8.50?) is what I had in mind today, with Rice (£2.50?). No more Bread for Hector for a while, and certainly no more Lamb! Steve would have the same but with Chapattis (£0.50). A chap higher up the hierarchy came to take the Order. All appeared well until the Father of The House came over to apologise, they have just re-opened and the Fish doesn’t arrive until later. Start again.

Aloo Gobi (£6.50) became Hector’s choice #2, Steve would go for Koftay (£8.00?). Alas, no Aloo Gobi was available, Mixed Vegetables was offered. OK, choice #3, and not on the Menu.

Supplies were arriving during our visit, bits piled up here and there, Irn Bru too!

Koftay

What a strange looking plate. Meatballs this was not.

It’s Seekh Kebab cut into pieces – I assured Steve – the same thing as Kofta effectively.

I would assume that Kofta are baked, Seekh are done under a grill or in the Tandoor. Steve studied the flat, white bits sitting on top – Chicken? – he pondered.

It’s Egg, you have Kofta Anda!

OK, Anda is hard boiled Egg, these Eggs may have been poached, so maybe – Shahi Kofta – the much missed Dish from International. The Masala was Oily and Herb-rich, I must have this in future. Desi Cuisine, indeed.

I believe Steve was still a bit bemused as to what this Curry was about:

The Spice could have been hotter (heat), sauce was good, egg was unnecessary, bit overcooked.

But, Steve, dear chap, it’s the Egg that makes it!

As he bit into the Seekh/Kofta he remarked on the Spice and the Coriander. There was a spontaneous – Wow! – as he finished. He got it in the end.

Mixed Vegetables

The Thick Masala Mash hid all but one protruding piece of Potato. As I decanted the Curry on top of the Rice plate so I found Cauliflower and Peas, so not far from an Aloo Gobi.

Was this the correct way to eat this mass of food? Mein Host pointed to the steel plates that were on the table. Everything was piled high, if I decanted once more then I could incorporate the Salad and Dip. Even the Hector got there in the end.

The Spice was modest initially then built, no problems here. The Flavours were remarkable, as with Yadgar (Glasgow) I had to wonder how Chef could get so much out of Vegetables. The base Masala must be excellent.

Hector seeks Dry Curry, this tested. The Salad and Dip provided Diversity and Moisture. This was a beautiful Vegetable Curry, though on a normal day, a Paratha would have been the better accompaniment.

The Bill

£16.50    Next time I might be more certain about the prices and confirm that Chapattis etc are still included.

The Aftermath

Farewells were sincere. The chaps here are excellent. One day I may be regarded as a regular.

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Bradford – Sheesh Mahal – The Final Curry (of this trip)

Posted on June 6, 2021 by Hector

Having been denied my Fish Curry at lunchtime, Hector was on a mission. Fish Curry is not on the Menu at Sheesh Mahal (6 St. Thomas’ Rd, Bradford, BD1 2RW), however, on Steve’s last visit here back in 2014, Sadaqat served Hector a superbly – Dry – Fish Methi. I was sure Omar, his nephew, could command something similar. One thing was certain, Hector would not be eating any more Lamb or Bread on this trip, two things were certain…

Steve and Hector entered Sheesh Mahal at 23.30, Omar walked in behind us, cue the Curry party. I pleaded with him not to shower us with extras as he had done two nights ago when neither Clive or I could finish our Mains. Steve was already wondering about what he had missed.

Salad, Poppadoms and seven Dips were brought to the table. I informed Omar that we had been charged for these two nights ago. He assured us that this would not happen tonight. I note that on our visit here back in 2014, the quality of the Lime Pickle was noted, as it was on Friday. I must ask what brand they use, this is something special.

The Fish Curry was possible, now for Steve. I suggested that Omar bring Steve what I had two nights previously but without the bones. Steve had to be trusting here. A Garlic Naan would accompany, Rice for Hector. Once again, the Menu was incidental, as was my request for – no extras.

The wonderful sound of food sizzling on a hot platter came into earshot. I told Omar that if I couldn’t finish my Curry I wouldn’t be paying for it. Look at this:

Masala Fish?

For once, I can identify the Fish – Cod!  (Omar told me.)Yadgar (Glasgow) have set the standard for Fish, either as Pakora or baked. Tonight’s Cod was spectacular: white, chunky, cooked through and then some, Spiced, Seasoned – this was almost beyond pleasure.

I have never heard so many – wows – from Steve, or anyone else for that matter. This could well be the finest piece of Fish I have ever eaten.

Steve: The Fish was perfectly cooked, spiced on the outside, beautiful. Any sauce added to it would ruin it.

Masala Fish is on the Menu at £6.00, I shall be hoping to share this on future visits.

Omar brought the Mains, his assistants the Rice and Bread. The lightly fired, puffy Naan was huge, the Rice huger, no way would these be finished.

*

*

*

*

Fish Curry

Unlike the Fish Methi of 2014, there was a smothering of a light coloured Masala. This was the Dry Fish Curry that I imagine often and is rarely delivered. Topped with Coriander and Ginger Strips, there would be a Herb blast and a crunch too. Whole Green Chillies cooked in would add a mighty – kick.

The likelihood was that this was the same Cod but cut and flaked. Omar came over to check on my enjoyment, this is what I told him:

The Seasoning is beyond the norm, the Spice is – cough – fine, the Flavours come through powerfully. This is excellent.

There was just enough Masala to make the Rice viable, a Paratha would have been the better accompaniment. I suspect Omar realised this too, because moments later a Paratha was presented.

Again check the size, the Spirals, Flakiness, this was a superb example of the genre. I took a piece, the Butteriness came through, this was close to the elusive White Paratha. Steve took a piece of the Paratha, the Naan was abandoned.

*

Omar’s Creation for Steve, in Boneless Lamb

An appropriate quantity of – foliage – covered the Meat and Minimal, almost virtual, Masala. This was a Bradford Curry.

Words cannot – began Steve – there are no words.

This makes a Blogger’s life difficult, fortunately, he found some more:

I think possibly, this is the best Curry I’ve ever had in my own life. Everything was there, tenderest meat, small cut, spice. I can’t finish (it), my only regret is having what came before.

Curry at Sheesh Mahal is this good.

The Bill

£19.40 I was interested to see that what we ate was put through as – Balti.

The Aftermath

It was good to end on such a high. Sheesh Mahal, Syhiba (Wakefield) and Lahore Tandoori Restaurant (Peterborough) have been the highlights of this trip.

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Bradford – International – How Many Poppadoms?

Posted on June 6, 2021 by Hector

Curry once more in the small hours, but nothing like as late as last night at Sheesh Mahal. This morning it was once again time to evaluate the service and fayre at International (40-42 Morley Street, Bradford, BD7 1BA) in the post Khalid & Ali era. Steve has joined Clive and Hector in Bradford, and not before time.

I attempted to capture the new illuminated signage, maybe an early evening photo would be better, but who dines then? International opens at 16.30, until late, lunchtime Curry here has never been an option.

The restaurant was surprisingly busy, but how many present were young waiters and waitresses buzzing about? I recognised no-one. We were given the table adjacent to the stairs, how often have I been sat here in the past twenty five years?

The latest edition of the Menu was provided, quite a read. Getting Clive through this would be a challenge. Somehow we cut to the chase: Keema Mutter Karahi (£10.95) with a Keema Naan (£2.95) was his choice. However, I did point out the likelihood that a Plain Naan (£2.50) would be inclusive, so why pay so much when Mince was in his Curry? Clive saw the logic. Steve, aka Mr. Madras, went for the three Chilli rated – Lamb Masaledar (£10.95) which includes – naga pickle – so an Achari variant. Steve would have Rice (£2.50) to accompany.

Hector has eaten a lot of Curry in the past two weeks, something different was required. It was time to revisit a previous fixation: Karela Lamb Karahi (£10.95), accompanying Chapattis would suffice.  It is possible that the last time I ordered Karela was on these very premises, two years ago, I was impressed.

How many Poppadoms? – asked the waiter.

Clive as usual was straight in with two (£0.60). With the accompanying Pickle Tray (£1.95) understood, that’s £3.15 on – The Bill – already, and for what? In the days of Khalid & Ali, Poppadoms and Dips would have been on the table in a flash, no questions, and Complimentary, of course.

I asked if he was – selling or giving? The question appeared not to have been initially understood. Eventually his answer was clear. I concluded that he was programmed to sell as many Poppadoms as possible.  At least he did confirm that the Rice, Chapattis and Plain Naan would be inclusive. I should hope so, prices here are high for Bradford.

Clive would have his Poppadoms, Steve and I would pay two thirds of the cost as is the honourable practice, – The Curry-Heute Campaign – continues.

The wait for the Curry felt appropriate. Six Chapattis arrived along with the Rice and Naan, so how did that happen?

Keema Mutter Karahi

The wedge of Tomato on top complemented the Coriander, a colourful presentation. With the Peas protruding from the Mince, and only a hint of Masala on one side of the karahi, this gave the appearance of a worthy Keema Mutter.

The spiciest Keema I’ve ever had – declared Clive – can’t say the best, had so many, but definitely up there.

I note that this Curry only had a two Chilli rating, so bring on the Masaledar!

Lamb Masaledar

The highly visible Masala gave this the appearance of being closer to a Traditional Curry as opposed to the Dry-Bradford-style. Rice most certainly was a good choice of accompaniment, there was enough Masala to justify it.

This is amazing – was Steve’s solitary contribution to Curry-Heute this morning.  The Spice Level did not bother him.

Karela Lamb Karahi

A two Chilli rating for this Curry, certainly Drier than the Masaledar, therefore in the Bradford style. The Meat was also cut Bradford-small. There was no visible Oil at the start, and none collected on the periphery thereafter. Chef may well have been – dabbing – before this Curry was brought to the table. Hector is not averse to Oil, but many find it off-putting, so this may suit those of that inclination.

There was a – kick – and it kept coming. The level of Seasoning was decidedly low which felt strange after the – Salt-Fest – of the latter days of the Khalid & Ali era. International Curry has changed.

Tinned Karela? – I recorded. The Texture was not that of the preferred Fresh, there was no – Bitter Gourd Flavour – here. The Overall Flavour reflected the Dry Masala, an Earthiness which I always enjoy, however, the Meat was doing something on the palate that I did not like. The Texture was not sitting right. Was this a throwback to the attempt at eating – Liver – last night at Sheesh Mahal? Is Hector – Lambed-out?

The Spice kept building to the detriment of the Flavour, Hector reached the Curry wall, it was time to stop.

It was fully twelve hours since I had last eaten, the appetite was there. Maybe I’m Chapattid-out too? Is it time to return to Rice? Is this the end?

The Bill

£38.50    Why six Chapattis were recorded, who knows? As a consequence there was a charge for the Plain Naan.

The Aftermath

No farewells, a young waitress dealt with the card payments, very little interaction. Where was Poppadom Joe?

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Bradford – The Kashmir Restaurant – The Bradford Curry Ritual Continues

Posted on June 5, 2021 by Hector

No trip to Bradford is complete without a Fish Karahi (£8.50) at The Kashmir Restaurant (27 Morley St, Bradford BD7 1AG England). I arrived just before 12.30, a mere ten hours since the late night extravaganza at Sheesh Mahal. The chap serving smiled in recognition. Mein Host was behind the counter, no handshake, but a big smile:

Is the sun shining today? – he asked.

I suppose the tinted specs did appear a bit strange for the first few minutes in this basement venue.

The Order was given, Chapattis included. I was then asked about the Spice Level, something that has rarely been mentioned in this trip, but surely should be the norm.

Above medium – I suggested.

Madras – was the reply.

A jug of Tap Water and the usual plate with Salad and Raita was brought also. The wait would not be long, Hector was the lone diner.

Three Chapattis accompanied the Curry, as is the way in the best of Bradford.

Fish Karahi

I have missed this. The mass of Fish sat in the Oily Masala featuring pieces of cooked Tomato. Coriander had been stirred in also. The majority of the Fish was flaked, however, there were ample sized pieces also.

The first dip with the Chapatti revealed the Karahi was decidedly – Hot! The Spice Level was at the top end of the scale, this was going to be one demanding Curry. Madras plus, plus.

The Seasoning was right up there too, guess what? I could taste the Fish!

For those who have been following this trek, today’s Fish Karahi puts in perspective all that was found to be inferior at 7 Spices Balti (Sheffield) last week.

The eyes watered, the tubes were cleared, excruciating pleasure, wonderful.

Having eaten this with Chapattis for years, today I felt that Rice would have been appropriate. Rice would have tempered the Spice Level. The eating was slow, I phoned Clive to inform him I would be late for our rendezvous at the Interchange.

He had eaten his leftover – Omar Kayahm – from the early hours at Sheesh Mahal as a Wrap, in the Keema Naan, for breakfast. He couldn’t finish his leftovers.

That’s the second time I have failed to finish that meal – he realised.

I ate on, slowly, this Curry would be finished, and enjoyed, magnificent. For Hector, one and a half Chapattis is always enough.

Coriander stems and leaves, Tomatoes, Fish in a well Seasoned Masala, this is the classic Bradford-style Fish Karahi.

The Bill

£8.50   One pays for the Curry, the rest is inclusive.

The Aftermath

Clive and I boarded the bus to Halifax. At the top of the hill between Bradford and Halifax lies Queensbury and Sarina’s. One of Bradford’s finest Curry Houses, rebranded as – Sarina’s Curry Kitchen – is presently Takeaway only. I contacted Sarina, she has no plans to reopen for dining in.

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Bradford – Sheesh Mahal – A Big Meal in the Small Hours

Posted on June 5, 2021 by Hector

The late lunch at Karachi  felt like a pre-theatre dinner. Knowing that Glasgow pubs, which reopen tomorrow after eight months, will have to close at 22.00, I was hoping that we could postpone Curry-Heute #2 to as late a time as possible. Clive wondered if we were not leaving it too late for Curry.

This is Bradford, they’re open all night, well almost.

Thanks to the Boar and Fable on North Parade, it was well after midnight when Clive and Hector walked around to Sheesh Mahal (6 St. Thomas’ Rd, Bradford, BD1 2RW). Will Hector subsequently manage to visit three Bradford Curry Houses in one day? It has been done before.

As we entered at 01.00, a familiar face greeted us on entry, Omar! I hadn’t seen him since August 2019 when The Rickmeister and Hector were invited to indulge at the sister shop in Halifax, what a day. Ricky is currently elsewhere and so will not be appearing in this leg of the trek.

Plates with Salad,  three huge Poppadoms and five Dips were brought to the table in the manner which Hector believes should be standard practice. No messing, just bring them.

Five Dips were deemed not to be enough, two more, and larger dishes too, were provided. Clive hogged the Lime Pickle. I eventually discovered why. What brand was this? Remarkable.

We hadn’t ordered anything yet, Omar came over to take charge. Both he and his cousin, Amar, have served Hector some worthy creations over the years that are not necessarily on the Menu. At Sheesh Mahal I prefer to order off Menu, Capsicum has a habit of appearing otherwise. Note, the – dreaded mush – has not been mentioned in Curry-Heute since Sheffield where it proved once again to be an issue.

I described my perfect Curry to Omar – on-the-bone – was also noted in particular. Chapattis would accompany. Clive’s turn. He too listed his parameters, it soon became apparent that they were both heading towards and then beyond the – Omar Kayahm (£11.50). This is a deluxe Keema Mutter Aloo, the kitchen sink was going in too. A Keema Naan (£2.90) would accompany, try keeping Clive away from his Keema Naan/Paratha.

We returned to the eating of our healthy Bits. The familiar sound of Meat and Onions on a sizzling platter came closer and closer. A little bonus, on the house. It looked wonderful, alas, this would be a gift horse whose mouth would be clearly examined…

Liver, Hector cannot abide Liver.

*

Liver Tikka

Strips of Capsicum aside, the presentation was all. As the contents of the platter were decanted it made me realise just what a mess our plates were with Salad, Dips and Poppadoms.

The Texture of the Liver was nothing like anything experienced previously, this I could eat. The stringiness had gone, chewing was even pleasant, all was well until the swallowing, the taste… aargh…horrible. Clive loved it and so the rest was piled  onto his plate.

Omar wasn’t finished, another sizzling patter arrived, much better!

Lamb Chops

Three large Chops, only the edge of one was cremated as is the Hector preference. Hector the thoughtful, decided that since Clive had feasted on the Liver Tikka, only one of the three Lamb Chops was going his way.

The Chops may not have featured the sought after burnt extremities, however, they were properly cooked through. Smooth, tasty, joyous – was added to my notes.

Meanwhile Clive was quite simply gobsmacked. I did point out to him that as we had not actually eaten anything we had ordered, we could leave now without paying.

As if.

If food is put in front of you, it’s going to be eaten. Well, until you can’t. We both knew that when our Order arrived, we would struggle.

The basket of Chapattis and the Keema Naan would be sacrificed first, no need to fill up on Bread. I did note the quality of the Keema Naan, grains of Mince, not the pink, Donner-like substance which some venues present. This was a real Keema Naan.

*

*

*

Omar Kayahm

Chefs Special Balti – is where this creation finds itself on the Menu. Incidentally, prices have not risen here since 2020. Keema, Rice and Peas – may have been expected, Chickpeas on top were also visible.

The second photo shows the interior with greater clarity. The Capsicum garnish may well have been a wind up, fortunately, Clive does not share my abhorrence.

This is the best Curry ever – claimed Clive – but it’s not Curry, just spicy food.

I have praised many a Dry Keema, I have to ask: did this have any Masala? There was only the slightest hint of Oil collecting on the base of the karahi. This Curry was unique in style and content.

That was exceptional – concluded Clive – a perfect balance, no eyes watering, no nasties, just a blend of flavours.

Clive managed about half, the rest would go back to the Travelodge, today’s lunch. Look out for an update later. Was this meal in the small hours therefore breakfast by definition?

Omar’s Special 2021

Hector’s Perfect Curry: Dry, Thick Masala, Lamb on-the-bone, Methi and Medium with a Kick – has been described oft to Omar. And so here it was, topped with Ginger Strips and Coriander. The Meat was served in larger pieces than is the Bradford custom, spot the Sucky Bone!

The Chapattis were quickly abandoned, somehow I had to do this justice.

The Meat was – melt in the mouth – the Spice hit the back of the throat – cough. This Curry was gorgeous. With the level of Seasoning truly sussed, stunning.

The only negative has to be that being well stuffed, around half of this wonderful Curry had to be abandoned. Whilst one has to thank Omar for his generosity, it was to the detriment of why we were really here. Next time I shall have to rein him in. Next time could be tomorrow, or even later today. What time is it?

The Bill

£26.35 We had been charged for the – Pickle Tray – most unusual, but no way was this being challenged. The Keema Naan (£2.90) is outwith the inclusive Bread, and look at the feast.

The Aftermath

It was after 02.30, Omar arranged a taxi. There was time to discuss the events of the last year, Bradford-Kirklees has been hit hard. Friends and family have been lost, then there’s the customers who simply have never shown up again.

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Bradford – Karachi Restaurant – Proper Curry, Proper Money

Posted on June 4, 2021 by Hector

The 07.52 from Aberdeen to York got as far as Berwick-upon-Tweed timeously, thereafter, ninety minutes of mayhem. On reaching York I missed a connecting train to Bradford by seconds. By taking a different train, in theory, I should have caught up with the Interchange bound train at Leeds. Again I missed it by seconds. At least Forster Square is nearer the Travelodge. Three keycards later I met Clive downstairs, it was time, finally, to go to Karachi Restaurant (15 Neal St., Bradford BD5 0BX). The big hitters in Bradford appear not to be open all day as some once were.

The NHS QR code didn’t work, too old was the reason given by the young girl who would serve us. That was the faded sheet posted on the wall, not her customers, presumably. A mature couple were sat to the left, almost finished. I led Clive to the far right of the restaurant, all felt safe.

Meat Ball Spinach (£8.50) is why Hector was here. As the Full Bhuna was planned for later tonight, Clive accepted the logic in having this lighter Dish as a very late lunch. I read out the various Kofta options. He nearly went for Meat Ball Dansak (£8.50) but decided he might have something similar later. A pity, Kofta Dansak is a Curry I would like to have seen. Meat Ball Mushroom (£8.50) became his choice. In Bradford, Chapattis are either inclusive or very cheap. At Karachi they are inclusive.

A welcomed jug of Tap Water was brought to the table followed soon by a replacement. The Modest Salad and Raita was nibbled on during the short wait. The Raita was remarkably – Creamy.

The Curry arrived along with a basket containing six Chapattis, three each, the Bradford norm.

Meat Ball Spinach

Four large Kofta sat in a Spinach-rich Mash. Topped with Coriander leaves, one knows that in Bradford there is no such thing as too many Herbs. It was in Bradford all those years ago when Methi was first experienced, even though it took years to identify what it was. Each Meat Ball would be quartered or more, so this was quite a portion. Only with Kofta do I enjoy this style of – Saag. With solid Meat the preference is always a Masala with Spinach, not the Green Mash that accompanies Kofta, yet here it decidedly works. Even a Keema Palak in this style would probably not work for me.

The Seasoning was a little below perfection, the Spice built steadily. The Kofta gave off a huge Earthy Blast of Cumin, add to this the Bitterness of the Spinach and here we have two discrete sources of Flavour working in harmony. It works, nay, it’s wonderful. A visit to Karachi for Kofta Palak is becoming part of Hector’s ritual when in Bradford.

Meat Ball Mushroom

Again, topped with Coriander, the four Kofta sat in a lighter Masala. For a moment I wondered if the Meatballs might be different, but why should they be? It’s the Masala which defines the Curry.

The Thick Masala this time had sliced Mushroom added, I probably would have liked this also, Meat and Mushroom being a standard Order for many a year.

That got the juices going – was Clive’s contributory remark.

Both Curry bowls were wiped clean. We only managed five Chapattis between us, a pity.

The Bill

£17.00   Cash Only – the sign is prominent at the counter where we paid. One of the Chefs gave a response which should become immortal when I enquired as to why there was no contactless system in operation.

Proper Curry, proper money.

I hope this quote is a scoop for Curry-Heute.

The Aftermath

Visits here have been too sporadic for Hector to be recognised. The only interaction with the Chefs is in the final moments of a visit. Maybe one day.

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