Lisboa – Ganesha Palace – Last Lisbon Curry of 2020

Posted on February 7, 2020 by Hector

Friday night is – Curry Night. But why not every night? Steve and Louise agreed to meet for Curry this evening in Lisbon, they happened to be in the same city at the same time, strange. Who planned this? Having enjoyed the authenticity of the Curry Houses closer to the – Curry Cafe – end of the spectrum this week, it time to satisfy Marg’s preference for somewhere with – ambience. Hector was going – Mainstream.

Ganesha Palace (Av. Álvares Cabral 48, 1250-018 Lisboa, Portugal) ticked the boxes, it was also hopefully a downhill walk from there to our final calling point of the day – Cerveteca Lisboa.

A well chosen bus took us almost door to door from the disappointing Quimera Brewpub up the steep slopes to Ganesha Palace. Steve and Louise arrived simultaneously on foot from the opposite direction. It was a few minutes before 20.00.

Ganesha Palace seemed huge in comparison to the venues visited earlier in the week. The seating area nearest the door was empty, the few tables occupied were well inside. We were casually shown to a table in the middle of the room, in the midst of the other diners, a cluster of Curry eaters. Or maybe not. The waiter asked us if we wished the Indian Menu or Italian Menu. Steve thought that a strange combination, I pointed out that Clydebank’s very own – Diva – is similarly set up.

Having seen a photo online of the Fish Masala (€8.95), I knew I was having this tonight. That I stuck to my plan is remarkable. Marg and I took the ferry across to Almada this afternoon, we stopped for lunch in Cacilhas. A suitable Portuguese Restaurant (Cova Funda) was selected, I persuaded Marg to share the Fish Stew (€22.00). What came will never be forgotten.

One can never have too much Fish. Marg may laugh at this, one day.

Marg declared early, Keema Muttar (€9.50) with a Tandoori Roti (€1.50). Louise said she would have – my usual Rogen Josh (€9.50) which she chose from the list of Lamb Dishes. Steve took his time before announcing his customary Lamb Madras (€9.50). They would share a Garlic Naan €1.75) and Pulaw Rice (3.95). I had already decided upon Mushroom Rice (€2.95).

That the Pulaw was a Euro more than the Mushroom Rice puzzled. The Fish Curry was a Euro cheaper than all three Meat Dishes which, I feel, is how it should be. This is not so in the UK.

Marg and I would share a large bottle of Sparkling Water (€2.95) whilst Steve and Louise chose the Bier on tap (€3.50).

No Starters, given the size of our lunch, a Main Course would be a challenge. As ever, I asked the Waiter to ensure that no Capsicum would appear in my Fish Masala. He then thought I wanted them. No! As an ingredient, Capsicum was mentioned in quite a few Dishes, but not the Fish Masala. Sorted. He asked Marg if one Roti was enough. She insisted thus.

Poppadoms and Dips were brought, I did not partake.

There was time to take the camera on a tour of the premises. Two very impressive muriels (sic) impressed, – Rajahstan – was as close as our waiter would identify the huge fortification above the lake. The palaces at the foot, and on top of the mesa, impressed also.

When will Hector return to India?

The Rice portions were easily enough to share. Marg was having none, especially after she was presented with two Rotis, both halved.

The Mushroom Rice had Onions present also. The Rice had been lightly spiced, tasty. When I see Mushrooms with this texture I always think – tinned. Possibly they were. The Pulaw had Peas, Green Beans and Carrots mixed through, a mini Biryani, so worth the extra. Had I known, I would have ordered Pulaw also.

The Naan also served in two pieces, was well fired, puffy and had a decent amount of Coriander on top. Louise described the Naan as – garlicky and light.

Fish Masala

One Ginger Strip protruded from the Thick Masala which was worryingly – Red. Fresh Coriander had been sprinkled on top at the time of serving. The darker specks suggested that some might have latterly been cooked in. Having arranged the Rice on my plate, I decanted the Curry. At this point the waiter approached with a soupçon of – something Spicy. This should be standard practice in Restaurants.

The Masala had more than a hint of creaminess about it. The Menu had promised a – thick sauce – I most certainly had one. Thinking back to the thinnest of Shorva I saw presented to the adjacent diners yesterday at Caxemira, the Masala before me this evening was why I had chosen Ganesha Palace. The Spice Level was not in the face, it built slowly. I took some of the Green Chilli Sauce but found it made little difference, Hector already had a Spicy Curry. The Seasoning in my Fish Stew at lunchtime was way down, the Masala here was well judged. The Fish was still white inside after being cooked, it remained suitably firm. This was a worthy, but still – Mainstream Fish Curry, even these can be hard to find. Had Hector, in effect, ordered – Fish Tikka Masala?

The customary photo of Hector’s Curry on top of the Rice was omitted. The photo with Marg does capture it. Day #6, is Hector getting tired?

Keema Muttar

The quantity impressed, this was quite a potful. Again the redness was a bit off-putting. I noted some Oil had collected in the pot once Marg had removed the top third. This Keema Muttar was slightly wetter than the optimum, however, I did not hear Marg complain. Marg’s verdict:

It was very rich, very tasty. I liked that it was kept hot by the candle (under the pot). The Rotis were crisp. It was a lovely balance between the moistness of the meat and the crispy Roti. I thoroughly enjoyed it and would have it again.

Lamb Madras

The thickness of the sauce in the Fish Masala became even more apparent when I studied Steve’s Lamb Madras. This Masala was – Thin – yet it was far from Shorva. The same – Red – was evident across all the Dishes this evening. There is no need for this.

Steve emitted many positive comments as he ate, it was clear he was enjoying his Curry:

Lamb was tender, sauce was tomatoey and garlicky, good strength, delicious overall.

Rogen Josh

From my perspective, this was the same as the Madras, but with a blob of cream spooned in before leaving the kitchen.

Louise enjoyed her Curry also:

Very tender, melt in your mouth (Meat).

So, four happy diners,  I must admit the prices were excellent for the size of portion. This was a genuine Restaurant and was cheaper than many a Curry Cafe. Marg prolonged our stay by ordering a Coffee (€1.95). Did she know that Cerveteca Lisboa only sells Bier, nothing else?

The Bill

€63.00 (£53.85) We were charged for the second Roti.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was handed over to the chap who had served us most. He told us to wait then returned with a bottle and four glasses. We were treated to an Almond/Marzipan Liqueur.

I wonder if anyone did come to Ganesha Palace and order Pasta this evening.

The walk to Cerveteca Lisboa was downhill until we reached the final block. We are getting to know Lisbon well.

Four Curry days in Lisboa, the standard of Curry was beyond most mainland European nations.  Vasco da Gama, I thank you. Where is your statue?

Menu (extracts)

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Lisboa – Caxemira – Conzinha Indiana – No Signage Required!

Posted on February 6, 2020 by Hector

Just off Praca de Figueira, the bus terminus in the heart of Lisbon, lies a Curry House one is simply never going to stumble across. This venue is for the cognoscenti, or for those with – word of mouth – connections.

It was Glasgow’s own – Methi Freak – who made Hector aware of the existence of Caxemira – Conzinha Indiana (Rua dos Condes de Monsanto 4, 1º Dt. º-1100 – Lisboa Portugal) two days ago, just as a memorable Curry at nearby – Taste of Punjab – was about to be served. That it was originally reported as Kebab Mahal actually helped. Those modest premises were easily located, with the promise of – Lamb Korai – on offer there, and worthy of investigation before the clarification.

Caxemira is one floor up, directly above Kebab Mahal. The entrance is to the left as one looks from across the street. There is no signage, no clue, one either knows it is there, or Caxemira is never discovered.

Climbing the stairs, just the one flight, and entering the Restaurant, the layout and ambience immediately brought – The India Club (Hotel Strand Continental) to mind. If one has not – done the Strand – adjacent to London’s Indian Embassy, then one has not tasted that which differentiates – Indian Curry – from the rest. Caxemira – the city, is located in that part of India which actually lies beyond Bangladesh – the extreme east. Having enjoyed Punjabi Fayre at – Taste of Pakistan – and – Taste of Punjab – on previous days, an – Indian Curry – would be a change.

Five diners were already in situ, it was just after noon. We counted seats for 41 diners. Three staff stood in what one might take for an – open kitchen. The kitchen was actually behind this. I saw Chefs, various, pop in and out during our visit. The front of house chaps each had their own demarcation. The youngest brought the Menu, he became our host. His English was excellent, as was his attitude, tolerance, service, throughout our visit. He did watch as Hector mode was adopted (another one) and the Menu was photographed before choosing and ordering were even considered.

The Menu was not – overlong. Starters were few, Marg announced she was having Butter Chicken (€12.00), just like that. The Menu did claim this was a – Chef recommendation. Little did they know that the lover of Glasgow’s finest Butter Chicken (so Marg tells me) would be present here today.

For Hector it had to be Karai Gosh (€11.50), again. As Marg was having Curry, this meant we could share Rice and Bread. Vegetable Biryani (€9.50) did not tempt today, instead, Jeera Rice (€3.50) would suffice. Why I didn’t stick to my own system and order a plain Naan (€1.75), who knows? Garlic Naan (€2.50) it would be. Two 25cl bottles of Sparkling Water (€1.50) would complete the Order, or so we thought.

I asked the Waiter if Capsicum could be withheld from the Karahi. This was not a problem. He then listed other ingredients, possibly to make sure I was not allergic. All was well. He then asked if we wished to try their Chicken Samosas to start? Why not? Had Marg spotted – Samosa – on the Menu she would not have had Curry. Samosas were there, but in Portuguese – Chamuca.

The Waiter showed great patience as everything was photographed. I suppose others may photograph their meal, but pages from the Menu can appear to be too keen. I almost explained my purpose but decided to wait until the end.

The Samosas were brought almost in an instant. Thankfully they were small.

A bit like Haggis – was Marg’s take before I had started. The Samosa was packed with ground Chicken and Spice. Full of Flavour and a big – kick. Cloves were a part of the after-taste. We agreed that the Samosas were indeed worth trying.

As we waited, so Caxemira began to fill. A couple were sat at the end of our table setting for six, this would be repeated elsewhere in the room. By the time we finished our meal, people were actually waiting in the doorway for a table. They did not squeeze people into every available spot, people’s space was respected. The wait for our food felt appropriate, we were glad we had arrived before the rush.

The Jeera Rice was more than enough for two, a few grains were left at the end. The Garlic Naan was served in quarters. This had a decent covering of Garlic, but more importantly, had the burnt blisters which gave it authenticity.

*

Butter Chicken

A classic yellow Masala appeared to have a dollop of Cream added at the point of serving. Marg then identified this as a knob of Butter. I would take the sprinkled Spice to be Garam Masala. Marg’s favourite Curry, and definitely not in the Hector style.

Buttery, creamy, lovely – began Marg – very small pieces of Chicken.

This was a positive explained Marg … not the big white chunks.

It didn’t have the kick of Mother India’s Cafe (Glasgow).

*

Karai Gosh

The Waiter warned me not to touch the very hot karahi. The Curry sizzled as he placed it on the table. This would be the hottest food I have been served this week. Fresh Coriander had been sprinkled on top, no Ginger Strips today.

I arranged the six large pieces of Meat on the Rice. The Masala looked Thick, suitably authentic, a real Masala in a potentially real Curry. My third Karahi Gosht of the trip and each one has looked the part, no Euro Curry here.

I dipped a piece of Garlic Naan in the Masala I had left in the karahi. Garlic! This is why I do not normally order this Bread with this covering. I wonder if they would have done a Chilli and Coriander Naan? Back to the main plate.

Here was another wonderfully old fashioned tasting – Indian Curry. This was quite a departure from the usual Glasgow/Bradford/Manchester interpretations. The – Earthy Flavours – took me back in time, not quite to the 1960s and the Green Gates (Glasgow). This Curry was mellow, the Spice Level was no more than moderate, the Seasoning probably masked by the Garlic in the Naan. I had Garlic Prawns for lunch yesterday – not Curry! The Olive Oil was so well Seasoned with Garlic and Salt I had to declare them the best ever. Today, I was eventually able to cope with the Garlic, the Naan was not to the detriment of the Curry.

The Cumin Seeds kicked in, these added a further diversity of Flavour to the Masala. I noted how little Oil had collected on the base of the karahi. The Meat had to be halved, the portion was therefore more than adequate. This was – giving – Meat, an integral part of the Curry flavour wise, not a last minute add-in.

I dipped more Naan, another great Curry moment.

As I looked to my left, so the couple received their Prawn Curry, they both had ordered the same. Here lay Prawns swimming in a yellow Soupy Masala, possibly a Korma? They were locals and come here often. The lady was pleased that we had enjoyed our Curry. I hope they enjoyed theirs. Prawn Curry, don’t start me.

The Bill

€34.90 (£29.64) One Chamuca – Chicken Samosa (€1.20)

The Aftermath

I gave the Calling Card to our so patient Waiter. Introductions were brief, the place was stowed, he had work to do.

Steve and Louise came here later this evening and had Karai Gosh and Rogan Josh respectively. Excellent – was their verdict.

Caxemira is definitely worth a visit, and easy to find if one knows where to look.

Menu 

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Lisboa – Taste of Punjab – More Quality Lisbon Curry

Posted on February 4, 2020 by Hector

I would have been here yesterday – Taste of Punjab (Beco dos Surradores 18 591, 1100-528 Lisboa, Portugal), however, a certain non-Google social media site reported it as closed on Mondays. When Marg and I passed Taste of Punjab moments after the superb Curry at Taste of Pakistan, all was forgiven.    

Punjabi Curry, Hector may have described an overwhelming preference for the cuisine from the Northwest of the Indian Subcontinent. If the reader is new to this Curry Blog, then that is how it is. When is my next Fisch Chettinad? Contradiction? Bring me Curry.

With a greater familiarity of Lisboa after three days, Hector navigated his way to Taste of Punjab by dead reckoning. As we climbed the stairs, Marg spotted the Restaurant at the top, she was impressed that I had not consulted the map. Mein Host who greeted us at the door yesterday was out for a moment, it was presumably Chef who let us choose our seats. On his return, Mein Host brought the Menu. Two Poppadoms and three Dips were on the table in a flash.

This one Spicy – Mein Host advised us in a scene which was a re-enactment of yesterday at Taste of Pakistan. Having learned the lesson quickly, this Dip was ignored, there was Tamarind, what more does a Hector need? As is the European way, the Poppadoms had embedded Cumin Seeds, so much tastier than the standard British Poppadom. If only the UK was in the EU and a law could be passed forcing British Curry Houses to adopt the – Cumin Seed.

Mein Host brought a huge illustrated Menu card identical to the one on the wall outside. I liked this, very clear, Fish Karahi (€8.90) was available, tempting. However, if I was to make a comparison with Taste of Pakistan, I felt I should repeat the same lunch. Tomorrow, Marg permitting, we shall have a Portuguese lunch two doors away from our apartment. Lamb Karahi (€8.70) and Vegetable Biryani (€7.00) it would be.

I showed Mein Host the photo of Capsicum on a well known and reliable Curry Website:

No Capsicum.

No, no, no, only in Jalfrezi.

That’s the second time I have heard that reply. Mein Host at Chilli Grill (Brussel) made the same comment back in 2018. I also note that the description for the Fish Karahi here at Taste of Punjab specifically includes – green peppers.

Today, Marg chose Vegetable Pakora (€2.50) for her modest lunch. Two 25cl bottles of Sparkling Water (€1.00) completed the Order.

Mein Host returned a few minutes later to enquire about the required Spice Level. Above medium – was agreed. Too often, this is not a consideration.

We had time to take in our surroundings. Taste of Punjab is brighter and more spacious than Taste of Pakistan, and much easier to locate. Again, there was a sense of trying to be a bit more than a Curry Cafe, but certainly far from being a Pukka Restaurant.

Whilst we waited, the still efficient Huawei pinged. The Curryspondent who goes by the moniker – Methi Freak – back in Glasgow, had just read the post for Taste of Pakistan. He suggested I should track down Kebab Mahal. This was only 110m away.

The Pakora arrived first, the Curry was not long behind.

Vegetable Pakora

Four flat, dark pieces of Pakora formed quite a portion. They looked as if they had been double fried such was their exterior. The stringy extremities suggested they had been prepared on the premises and not bought in as is the case in many establishments in the West of Scotland. Marg’s words:

Very tasty, very hot, crispy. I indulged by having some of your sauce on them as well as the creamy sauce. Filling.

Vegetable Biryani

Topped with an elaborate slice of Lemon, the Biryani was quite a plateful. At first I thought I could simply add the Curry on top. The quantity would have beaten me, I decanted. Peas and Carrots were the only Vegetables mixed through the Rice, no Potato. Cloves, Green Cardamom and a piece of Cinnamon Bark were uncovered.

The intensity of Flavour experienced yesterday at Taste of Pakistan was not there. Yesterday was one of the great Biryani moments, Hector was now back down to Earth. This was little more than a Vegetable Rice, it offered the required Diversity despite lacking the array of – Interesting Vegetables.

Lamb Karahi

The Ginger Strips on top were so large, they were almost – wedges. The Fresh Coriander was but a soupçon. Large pieces of Onion had been added in to the blended Masala. I could see the Oil already separating around the periphery of the karahi. This Lamb Karahi looked the part, such a rarity in Mainland Europe, but as I wrote yesterday, expectations in Lisboa were high.

I decanted five very large pieces of Meat, a knife would have to be employed to divide each into two or even three pieces. There was plenty of Meat in a good ratio to the Masala. Tomatoes and Aubergine were found in the Masala.

The Meat was mostly – Soft, sufficiently Tender, some chewing required in parts. Yesterday the depth of Flavour came from the Biryani which complemented the Karahi. Today was back to the norm with the Rice complementing the Curry. The Spice Level seemed low to start but grew. The Seasoning may have been a tad down, but again this was the standout in yesterday’s Biryani.

I ate on, very slowly, Hector has to take his time. The encounters with Cloves took me back to Manchester, here was a sense of the familiar. I marvelled that here I was in Lisboa eating a Curry of this quality whilst in the vast majority of Euro-outlets one has to suffer the excuse of – the locals cannot handle true Desi Cuisine. This was a damned good Curry, Marg kept coming back for more – Sauce – she enjoyed it too.

If time permits, I would like to come here and try the Fish Karahi.

The Bill

€22.00 (£18.64) I found two items labelled – cover. €2.50 and €1.50 respectively. Presumably this was for the Poppadoms and Dips though one may have been for the Pakora. Still, we were certainly charged for the Poppadoms which we had not ordered. The tip reflected this.

The Aftermath

Praise was given for the fine meal. With introductions completed, the ritual photo followed.

We headed back down the stairs towards the bus terminus. Just before it lies Kebab Mahal. I went in, Lamb Korai was on offer. Soon.

Later another comment from Methi Freak was received advising that Caxemira, on the floor above Kebab Mahal, should be investigated. There is no shortage of Curry venues in Lisboa.

Menu (extracts)

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Lisboa – Taste of Pakistan – Lisbon Curry #1

Posted on February 3, 2020 by Hector

Hector and Marg are in Lisboa, we’ll see who else eventually features in Curry-Heute this week. History tells us that Vasco da Gama left these shores and pioneered the first mass shipment of Spice from India, so expectations on the Curry front are high. Madeira three years ago, proved to be a very worthy destination. This is our first visit to conterminous Portugal.

Curry Houses are plentiful, Hector was therefore able to distinguish between Punjabi/Pakistani and the rest. In a back street on the slopes leading up to Castelo de Sao Jorge lies Taste of Pakistan (Rua Sao Pedro Martir 37-B, 1100-555 Lisboa, Portugal). With scaffolding almost blocking the access, the intrepid Curry Hound sniffed out the chosen venue for Lisboa Curry #1. The photos outside showed Carneiro (Mutton) Karahi, Hector is back on his favoured Meat.

Arriving before 13.00, we were the first customers of the day. Taste of Pakistan is a simple restaurant seating twenty six, the décor was unpretentious but a step up perhaps from being a Curry Cafe. Mein Host let us choose our seats, I took the corner from where I could survey all. Marg was keen to find out which football match was on the tv. Tottingham (sic) beat Man City, unexpected, but they do have Portugal’s second most famous citizen as their manager.

*

Marg passed on the opperchancity to have Chamuca de Frango (Chicken Samosa) (€1.10). Instead, she decided that Soup would be light. Sopa de Lentilhas (€2.50) fitted the bill. Marg considered asking that her Soup be brought at the same time as my choice, however, I persuaded her not to complicate things.

Having checked with Mein Host that the Cabrito (Lamb) Karahi (€8.50) was available, it was a matter of what to have with it. The customary Breads were all there and at sensible prices, Rice too. In a moment of perspiration, I haven’t mentioned yet that it was 21ºC today, in early February, Biryani de Vegetals (€6.60) caught the eye. In India, a Biryani always felt like the best accompaniment, especially when the prices were so favourable. Today, I was in the same mindset. Two 25cl bottle of Sparkling Water (€1.20) completed the Order.

Two Poppadoms were presented along with two almost identical Dips.

This is Spicy – said Mein Host as he carefully placed the second Dip away from the first.

Cough … ‘kinell, – it truly was.

With embedded Cumin Seeds, the Poppadoms were a decent intro once the fire subsided and the other Dip was used.

The wait for the Mains felt appropriate, there was a hope that our Dishes had not just been thrown together. When a Curry was set before Marg the heart sank. Were we both being served Cabrito Karahi?

Somewhere, Soup had become lost in translation. Mein Host could see that Marg was taken aback by the Thick Mass of Lentils which lay before her. He assured her it  was healthy.

Dal Terka

The mass of Lentils was topped with Ginger Strips, a sprinkling of Fresh Coriander and fried Onions, the Tarka.

I heard Mein Host say – Shorva – as he returned to the kitchen. Here was one of life’s great ironies. How many of us have been disappointed when served with a Soupy Curry? Today, Soup had been ordered, Shorva this was not.

I am not used to just the Daal, it was lovely, flavoursome. There was a bit of Spice to it, a – kick, very enjoyable.

Mein Host returned with a handi full of Shorva. This he was offering in addition to the Daal. Marg graciously declined the Shorva, she had enough on her plate.

Biryani de Vegetals

Liberally topped with Almonds and a sprinkling of Coriander, this was quite a platter. I would engage Marg’s assistance with this, she duly obliged. I had to decant, the usual array of Vegetables was present: Potatoes, Peas, Carrots, Green Beans.

Cabrito Karahi

Ginger and Coriander had again been sprinkled on top, however, on closer examination there was so much more. For a moment I thought Dry Methi, maybe Onions, plus some Seeds. Beneath lay a delightfully Thick Masala, really – Thick. The Meat was in large pieces, counting felt unnecessary, Hector had more than enough food. I found two slivers of the dreaded – Green Mush. These were placed back in the karahi, no problem.

I decided to sample the Biryani first. Wow! Wow! And thrice – Wow!

It was that good. To think I might have ordered Bread. The Flavours from this were intense and familiar, again a function of the – Seasoning. I was taken right back to the glory years of The Village (Glasgow) and their Vegetable Rice. This Biryani had even more. There was a sufficient moistness to it and so could have been eaten without a Masala. If the Rice had Flavour, so the Potatoes packed even more. Served in large pieces, the Potatoes had the perfect texture and had absorbed the Spices from the Rice, absolutely – Superb!

I shall never forget this Biryani.

Large pieces of cooked Tomato permeated the Masala. The Meat was mostly – Soft – and gave off the distinctive Mutton Flavour that many a Curry has not. The Spice Level was not demanding, indeed, such was the level of pleasure already being enjoyed, why try to improve upon perfection? I found more Capsicum, so not quite perfect then. The slivers were rounded up and piled in the karahi, they were not interfering with my enjoyment of this wonderful meal.

I looked over to Mein Host soon after I started eating:

This is beautiful.

He smiled in acknowledgement. He did come over again after the – Shorva incident – to ask the customary question, and even offer more food. Between us we managed just about all the Rice, the Vegetables were no problem. What a meal!

The Bill

€22.50 (£19.07) Great value for what was effectively three Dishes. The Dal Terka was priced at €6.50. I had only been charged €7.00 for what was listed as – Lamb Curry.

The Aftermath

As I approached the counter to pay and introduce Curry-Heute, so Mein Host offered to waive the price of the Daal. I was having none of this. Marg even added to the tip.

There had to be a photo. On completion of this ritual, so another chap appeared at the kitchen hatch.

You are the Chef? – a sort of rhetorical question.

*

Chef was not missing out.

And so we headed up towards the castle. Metres away from Taste of Pakistan is Taste of Punjab. Mein Host there came to the door as I took photos of the exterior. Same again tomorrow, but something – Portuguese – this evening. 

Menu (extracts)

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Kofta Anda – Home-cooked by Hector

Posted on January 31, 2020 by Hector

Kofta Anda, after watching Shaheeen on YouTube

It’s Brexit Day, except for EU readers being one hour ahead of GMT, tomorrow’s date marks the day. The following day is Groundhog Day, here we go again.

Marg won a month’s supply of Eggs in a raffle. We have eaten a lot of Eggs this week.

My love of Kofta Anda has been well reported in these pages, Meatballs with Eggs typically served in the soupiest of Masala, – Shorva/Shorba. Two years ago, I attempted an interpretation of the Shahi Kofta as served at International (Bradford). Fine as it was, the Masala was in the Hector style, – Thick. To make a Soupy Masala is the antithesis of everything I was taught and have gone on to cook since. Having watched – Shaheen on YouTube – I abandoned my already published recipe for Kofta for a variation on hers, then set about making the Shorva.

Turkey Mince was the chosen Meat. I needed a break from Lamb, and no way was I using Chicken. Chicken Curry? Hector has a reputation to maintain. Apparently we were having a guest for dinner this evening, so I upped the quantity to 750g.

As has become the Curry-Heute model, a photographic record of the process is given to accompany the published – Kofta Anda recipe. Adding all that Water, not reducing, not thickening, very strange, but needs must for some sort of authenticity.

Kofta preparation

Shorva prepartion

Traditionally, one should be having Bread with this Curry despite the splashy nature of the Shorva. On opening the cupboard, I couldn’t believe I still had not purchased – White Chapatti Flour. Wholemeal it had to be, for me, a much inferior ingredient despite being more common.

I was caught in two minds, go for super-thin, or replicate the Chapattis with girth served in the better establishments. Perhaps somewhere in between was the result. My dough rolling skills are non-existent, one day I shall create something – round. I cooked one Chapatti with Butter on the Tawa, and one without. By this time I was informed that we had no third for dinner.

I also cooked the Basmati, Marg would expect Rice with all this Shorva.

The Kofta Anda was in the oven whilst I finished the Chapattis. The rich – Red – surprised me given how little Tomato was used. Chilli Powder – was the conclusion. On decanting, the – Red – had gone and the Flavours became lost in the Rice, however, the Shorva when taken on its own had an impressive depth of Flavour. Once again, this was down to the Seasoning. Average as the Chapattis were, it was worth the effort to permit dipping in the Shorva.

The Kofta turned out well. Previously I have baked/grilled Kofta, today they had been boiled in the Shorva. Turkey Meat is so much flavoursome than Chicken.

I can taste Cumin – was my remark to Marg. This puzzled, as I had not added any. Then I remembered my own Garam Masala was Cumin-rich. Marg commented on the – kick – as is her custom. She is still surprised when a Curry is Spicy.

I must have another go at Shahi Kofta and perhaps aim for a semi-Shorva.

The surplus was taken across the river to the person who had not shown. Marg may do deliveries, Hector does not.

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Glasgow – Pir Mahal Cafe – Glasgow’s newest Desi Curry Cafe

Posted on January 29, 2020 by Hector

Pir Mahal Cafe (199 Albert Drive, Glasgow G42 2NB) only showed on the Curry-Heute radar yesterday when a banner was spotted at the junction of Calder Street and Pollokshaws Rd. Pir Mahal is a Desi Curry Cafe of the type that Hector celebrates with much enthusiasm. As sources tell me that the long term future of – Indian Restaurants – is in doubt, then surely this is the way to go?

Arriving at Albert Drive just before 15.00, I was surprised to find the road closed halfway along. Lahore Kebab House was also closed, refurbishment is underway and the premises will reopen as Al Aqsa’s – The Peri Experts. Does this mean no more Curry? When I last visited Lahore Kebab House two years ago, Mein Host intimated that he planned to retire. It appears he has, so the opening of Pir Mahal Cafe may be well timed.

Entering Pir Mahal, the premises were empty except for the two staff: Sina assisted by his lovely assistant – Siema. Yes, Hector names the staff from the start, it felt appropriate to introduce myself and the Curry-Heute website. I handed Sina a – Calling Card – he said he would give it to his boss.

By now I had worked out why Albert Drive was closed. The corner of the block opposite Pir Mahal has gone, another major Glasgow fire. Hector was in Wien on November 11th so this had not registered. This was around the time that Pir Mahal opened for business so not such good timing. I also mentioned the closure of Lahore Kebab House. Siema told me that that the former proprietor now visits Pir Mahal Cafe.  A  lovely guy, I hope we meet again. 

The Breakfast Menu was on display, available all day from 10.00, though 08.00 was also mooted. In addition to some Punjabi standards, Full English Breakfast (£5.95) and filled Rolls are available. All things being equal, Hector is unlikely to find himself in Glasgow’s Southside this early.

With no Main Menu visible and no display boards, I deduced my choices were limited to the Dishes on display. The Masala in the Chicken Curry almost looked tempting, calm. Behind it lay Lamb on-the-bone, here we go again.

If I was going to properly judge Pir Mahal, I had to have the Gosht. Hector needed Interesting Vegetables to accompany. A seductively – Dry – Keema Mutter Aloo sat beside the Chicken Curry, I asked about what lay beyond. Aloo Mutter, and as with the Gosht, it was sitting in a lake of Shorva. So it goes. I asked for a portion of the Gosht and a side of Aloo Mutter. Sina spooned out the portions and took them away to be reheated.  Siema enquired about what should accompany. With Rice planned for part of this evening’s dinner, I thought I had better stick to Bread. A Paratha (£1.50) was ordered. Siema suggested an Aloo Paratha (£3.50), I would stick to Plain. I asked Sina if – white flour – was possible. Alas, only – wholemeal.

I took a seat at the line of tables along the window. Siema brought a modest Salad and some Dips which, in the end, I never got around to sampling. No sooner had I finished photographing the layout, when another chap entered, this was Mein Host, Sunny.

Both Sina and Siema drew our attention to each other. Introductions over, Sunny explained the seating which is quite innovative. The low marble tables and settees are to make the place look like one’s living room. I recall the difficulty in eating when I first encountered this at PIND Restaurant (Bradford) last August.

Sunny’s sister-in-law, who resides with his mother, is the source of the recipes for the Desi Curry. They are proud that what is served at Pir Mahal is exactly what is eaten at home. And so Siema brought the food.

The Paratha Police were certainly called this afternoon. The Wholemeal Paratha had a melted butter sheen and was served in quarters, Hector prefers his Bread – whole. This was a decidedly – thin – Paratha, layering was minimal, it was too late to establish if there had been a – swirl. Criticisms aside, it was quite enjoyable and being a sensible size, I ate the lot. However, as I was about to discover, I should have ordered – Rice.

Lamb Curry on-the-bone

A sprinkling of sliced Green Chillies and Fresh Coriander topped the Shorva. Shorva may well be the antithesis of my preferred Bhuna-style – Karahi – but when one knowingly orders it, then that is how it is. With two bowls of Curry, it made sense to decant.

I put six pieces of Meat on the plate and enough Shorva to cover it, this left perhaps the same amount of Meat behind and a mass of – Soup. I would use the spoon throughout.

The Seasoning was there, the Spice level took me by surprise, it was only near the end I rediscovered the sliced Green Chillies, a decent – Kick – indeed. The Lamb was delightfully – soft – and the Seasoning in the Meat oozed with the so familiar Flavours of Desi Curry. This was Meat which was not a stranger to the Masala as is so often the case in Mainstream Curry Houses. Scooping the Shorva with the Paratha proved pointless, I resorted to dipping and supping.

Aloo Mutter

Again, sliced Green Chillies and Fresh Coriander topped the Shorva.

Splash! – clean trousers tomorrow then.  Once more I decanted to create a plateful with Meat on one side and Veg on the other.

I expected the Shorva to taste the same as with the Gosht, how wrong could I be? The Flavour from the Peas had permeated throughout the Shorva, a first time experience. I sampled the Potato, – Wow! The Potato had taken in the compound Flavours from the Pea Soup, this was a real treat. Who needs Meat? I had stumbled upon a perfect match for – just another plate of Meat Curry. I needed the change, this worked well.

Before her departure, Siema had asked that all was well. Her presence will make Pir Mahal stand out from many Desi Curry Cafes where such customer care and service simply does not exist.

As I reached the end of my Curry eating, so Sunny brought some Keer (sorry, I stand corrected – Russ Malai) to the table:

If you eat your dinner, you can have…

This Punjabi milk-based Dessert is made locally by a lady and is freshly prepared every two days. The Russ Malai was cool, light and refreshing.

Hector eats Dessert? Don’t tell Shkoor (Yadgar).

It is customary to pay – The Bill – at this point. Such was the conversation that ensued, Hector nearly forgot.

The Bill

£10.00    A round figure.

The Aftermath

… the conversation continued. Sunny sounds local but hails from Dudley. I admitted to having little knowledge/coverage of the Birmingham area. Manchester was another matter. The cluster of Curry Cafes on Cheetham Hill Rd. was discussed. Chappati Corner and Lahori Badsha which I visited last week are well known to Sunny. Bradford was up next, I had to recommend the Handi Gosht (advance notice required) at Sarina’s (Queensbury), this was duly noted.

*

Food beyond Curry was discussed. Hector has long been amused by the Glasgow Asian community’s love of Pizza. Often Hector is to be seen tucking into kilos of Karahi Gosht whilst at adjacent tables, the locals are tucking into this supposedly – Italian – creation. Don’t start me or I’ll have to start a new Blog entitled – Can Italians make Pizza? At Pir Mahal, 12” Pizza is available for £4.50 which makes a mockery of the prices charged by the big chains. As far as the Asian love for this Cheesy Bread is concerned, it’s a case of what they don’t get at home. And this comes days after Hector’s first full on encounter of Cheese Naan at delhi2go (Manchester).

I asked about the name – Pir Mahal – expecting it to be a palace in Pakistan. It is in fact a city in the very heart of Punjab. I was told that people from this locus are reuniting at this venue having lost contact with each other over the years. A case of – Sunny has built it and they will come.

The fire has been a setback.  Further plans for Pir Mahal were revealed. The printed Menu is due soon.  Sunny hopes to have the largest display of ready Curry on display – in Scotland – as he put it. He has lost out on passing trade, his banners hopefully will attract more than Hector. Sunny then mentioned his other shop in Gallowgate.

Gallowgate? There is a dearth of Curry venues in Glasgow’s East End, sit-in in particular.  I asked where:

Bombay Bad Boy.

Hector was there last March at the end of a very long day. Attempts to actually return for their – Staff Curry – have been thwarted by them not opening as early I was led to believe. I did get some photographic coverage of the other shop. I thought Sunny seemed familiar, he thought he had recognised me, now we knew why.

Before departing I once again surveyed the fayre on offer. On the far right of the display was another Vegetable offering. This was – Aloo Gobi – and Hector was not leaving without some. Tomorrow’s lunch is taken care of, another review to follow, or maybe not.  Even Hector deserves a day off.

Update – August 2020

Another fire at Albert Cross and Lockdown, Pir Mahal has gone.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – Home Again

Posted on January 25, 2020 by Hector

January feels as if it is nearly over and prior to today, I’ve made a mere three Glasgow Curry posts in my home city this month. I have done well with two trips to Manchester and one to Edinburgh. For Hector inevitably, a lot of Lamb. The Lahori Lamb Karahi enjoyed at Lahori Badsha (Manchester) a mere two days ago was outstanding. Hector’s present fixation with this Dish maintains knowing what is just around the corner. Today it was back to the Southside where the majority of – Glasgow’s Top Rated – are located.

Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) would serve a Lamb Karahi tasting nothing like that enjoyed in Manchester such is the diversity of this – Curry. There are many interpretations of this Dish, the Punjabi/Afghan versions reign supreme, not the imposters dished out in Mainstream venues.

I approached Karahi Palace minutes after my usual 15.00. The construction site along the river is coming along. Will the brick fortress which separates Nelson Street from the new Barclay’s building come down? I hope so.

It is eight weeks since I was last here, so many places to visit and projects to complete. Ayaz, Mein Host, was behind the counter, Chef Rashid in his spot. Rashid has not cooked for me since the end of October.

Guess what? – I said to Ayaz.

The usual.

Chef Rashid got to work. A Lamb Karahi (£7.90) with extra Seasoning and Methi accompanied by a Chapatti (£0.70) is – The Hector Curry. I took my preferred seat in the empty seating area. A young chap ordered up something served in a plate (standard Curry) plus a Naan, he sat at the adjacent table. Two solo diners who knew exactly what they wanted in this most understated of Glasgow Curry Houses.

Lamb Karahi

Ginger Strips and Fresh Coriander topped the mass of Meat and Masala. Sliced Green Chillies had been cooked in along with more Herbs, the – Methi. I could see Tomato pulp as I had in the magnificent Manchester version at Lahori Badsha. No blended Masala here, this was an authentic Masala Mash. The vapour rose from the Curry, the karahi was too hot to touch. This was by far the hottest food I have been served this week.

Seasoning! And I do not mean – salty – it tasted of everything. Chef had pitched the Seasoning aggressively, the result, full on Flavours. Hector had his Methi too. What came in Manchester relied heavily on Cloves, this was far more complex.

When the Lamb had cooled sufficiently, I worked my way through the single large chop then ribs, and finally the always rewarding – sucky bone. Beautiful Meat, there was no need for the half kilo, this portion was more than substantial. But if someone suggests it…

The Bill

£8.70 The Chapatti may have gone up to 80p.

The Aftermath

Chef Rashid commented that he hadn’t seen me for some time, true.

I took photos of the prepared Dishes, one intrigued:

Kidney Beans in Masala – Ayaz informed me. For a moment I thought I had missed out on Daal Makhani.

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Manchester – Lahori Badsha – A Tasty Challenge

Posted on January 23, 2020 by Hector

Hector ended up at Lahori Badsha (140 Cheetham Hill Rd, Manchester, England M8 8PZ) earlier in the month en route to see IQ in Bury when the impressive and adjacent Chappati Corner was found to be closed. In the interim, Chappati Corner has successfully been visited again. Today was all about securing the Fresh Lamb Karahi – in lahori style – (£24.00) and only sold by the kilo. Hector needed a Curry Buddy, John was up for it.

We arrived at 11.50, the door was opened, we saw the chairs being taken off the tops of the tables. I led John to what has become my favoured spot, two tables from the far end. There was no sign of Zak, Mein Host. Having registered the minimal English spoken by other staff members on my previous visits, I took a Menu, approached a chap behind the counter and pointed to the photo of the Lamb Karahi. The request was thankfully not declined but did cause a bit of discussion among him and his colleagues.

The offer of – Spicy? – was accepted.

Another chap came to the table to take the Bread order. John only ordered two Chapattis (£0.50), not his usual bundle. He reckoned he would see what came before committing. My attempt at ordering more than a basic Naan (£1.00) was not being entertained. A Naan it would be.

The Bread Chef sprung into action, the rolling of the dough was conducted behind the counter. I suspect both he and the person who cooked our Karahi did not expect to be called into action this early in the day. If they’re open then they should be able to cover all eventualities.

A modest Salad and a Raita were provided along with a jug of cool tap water. At 12.08, our Curry and Breads were brought to the table. I doubt if anyone else in the UK was tucking in to such a mass of Desi Karahi Gosht this early today.

*

The Naan had been perforated to stop it rising, Rogni-style which is a common feature of Naan in Manchester. It looked as if it had been served whole, but was scored into quarters, acceptable. The Wholemeal Chapattis were of a decent thickness. Two proved to be enough for John, especially when a quarter of mine was passed in his direction.

Cracking Chapattis – remarked John as he ate.

Fresh Lamb Karahi – in lahori style

This was everything I was hoping for. A mass of Karahi served on-the-bone in the Thickest of Masalas. The colour was decidedly – Pale – no needless – Red. Not a – Namkeen Karahi – by any means, the Masala appeared to be too rich for that. I could see Tomato pulp. From my own cooking experience I know Tomato turns lighter when blitzed.

I used the big spoon to draw a line across the Curry. There was so much of it, I doubted if we would be fighting over the final bits.

Dera, a kilometre up the same road, serve what I regard as being the pinnacle of Curry in Manchester. Their Lamb Karahi, also served on-the-bone, has set a standard possibly for the North of England, unequalled, until today.

Today’s Fresh Lamb Karahi was as good as…

Minimal Oil was left on the base of the flat karahi after we had divvied up our first helpings. The Flavours burst onto the palate. Olive Oil? – I speculated, then the – butteriness – made me consider – Ghee. I have only ever tasted anything this distinctive on Cheetham Hill Road. The intensity of Flavour here was a joy to behold.

The Lamb was delightfully soft, clearly this had been precooked. So how they turn their base Lamb into this so quickly? We ate on, there was loads, the bone count was less than anticipated.

I uncovered four slivers of something green. I tasted one, Capsicum was more likely than Chilli. I decided that being inconspicuous they were not harming the Curry. Nothing was going to spoil Hector’s pleasure today. The Spice was there yet there was still a sense of the Curry being – mellow. Making a note on the Seasoning felt irrelevant with this much Flavour present. All was well.

John declared he was finished, as the slower eater, I had a long way to go. Usually, John would pounce on anything still going, not today. John’s appetite sated? In the end we had to leave more than a Soupçon, not enough to take away.

A tasty challenge – began John – fantastic balance of spice and flavour, up there amongst the best.

This Lamb Karahi was truly remarkable, and exactly what I was hoping for and giving something new to celebrate. That it is available at lunchtime could persuade more to join me on future visits. The Lamb Curry (£7.50), also served on-the-bone, has impressed on previous visit to Lahori Badsha. This – Lahori Lamb Karahi – is in a different league.

The Bill

£26.00      I’ll take that.

The Aftermath

A chap hovered behind the counter looking in my direction.

Did you cook it? – I asked.

There was a nod and a smile.

Well done.

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Manchester – Kabana – An Assembly of Six before Noon

Posted on January 22, 2020 by Hector

Hector, you have eaten a lot of Lamb in the last two days.

If Hector were to have any more Lamb on this trip, there is the fear that he might alter his DNA. And so with Vegetables fixed in the consciousness of determination, it was off to original Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1LQ England) with Clive in tow.

Today, – The Company – would grow by another four. Both John and Mark were determined to have Curry at Kabana as soon as they arrived. Steve, some two hours behind would follow suit. I wonder where they got that idea from? Howard was here yesterday when Clive and Hector were at – the other Kabana.

Mark was following Dr. Stan through the door as Clive and Hector arrived from the Arndale side of the Curry Cafe. Mags came in behind us. John was well into his Lamb Karahi (Boneless) and three Chapattis. At 11.45, Kabana was still quite empty, the six of us made an impact. By the time we had finished, people were queued to the door. Fortunately not everyone sits in, so the rush to claim a seat was never really a problem. One has to accept that squeezing in beside strangers is the Kabana norm. Rizwan, Mein Host, has been known to introduce fellow diners sharing a table.

Dr. Stan chose Rice & 3 with Lamb Karahi, Cauliflower & Potatoes and Daal.

Mmmmm.

Mags followed suit with Keema Peas instead of the Daal. This was the first time she has not opted for the single Curry:

The best I’ve ever had here – she told me.

Keema Peas

For Clive, just Keema Peas, no Rice or Bread. He was more than happy with this.

I was delighted to see Cauliflower and Potatoes on the Board. I still could not resist the ritual Lamb Karahi on-the-bone. Rice & 2 for Hector then. Mark ordered the same. Rizwan plated up the Order, the Foliage as ever was added liberally, today no Green Chillies. The stomach deserved a break.

Lamb Karahi & Cauliflower and Potatoes

I started with the Aloo Gobi, an instant – Gosh! The Potatoes had the Seasoning, the Cauliflower managed to retain the natural Flavour of the Vegetable itself, a great combination. My fork must have driven through the Masala in the Aloo Gobi to that in the Karahi, I therefore noted no difference. Needless to say the Flavours from the Masala were up to the expected standard. The Spice grew as I ate on, my first Curry here possibly without the extra Chillies, so still impressive. As ever in Manchester, the distinctive taste of Cloves appeared on the palate.

I love Rizwan’s Lamb, it’s always a stand out, so Tender and full of Flavour. Only three bones were set aside, one a – Sucky Bone.

Meanwhile from a window table, Mark was telling me how much he was enjoying his plateful:

Superb, top notch – was called across the room.

Having finished, John was not about to occupy the table place needlessly. He went back up and ordered the Daal and another Chapatti, Chapatti John indeed. This apparently was his first ever Daal:

Super tasty with just the right balance of spices, and the Lamb Karahi was excellent as well. I liked the Chapattis – light.

The Bill

Some had paid at the point of ordering, I took cash up to Rizwan, my share was £6.50.

The Aftermath

We made an efficient exit, people needed space to eat.

Until 14.15 on April 16th, well that’s the plan presently.

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Manchester – Kabana (Cheetham Hill) – On “The Other Curry Mile”

Posted on January 21, 2020 by Hector

Lord Clive of Crawley joined – The Company – today. Before becoming embroiled in the day’s other activity, he joined Hector on the walk up Cheetham Hill Rd. to – the other – Kabana (133 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester, M8 8LY England). There is quite a cluster of Curry Cafes in this stretch of Cheetham Hill Rd., Curry-Heute has reviewed: Lahori Badsha, Apna Lahori Kebabish, and Chappati Corner. Dera, a long time favourite Manchester venue. lies another kilometre up the road.

We arrived around 14.30. Many tables were occupied, however, by the time we departed, most were free. I liked the seating arrangements here, fixed chairs similar to Al-Faisal Tandoori back in the Northern Quarter. I counted seating for thirty in the main room with another twelve in the small room off through the archway.

As with the mother shop, there was a Specials Board to complement the illuminated Menu on the wall. Being a Tuesday, Kofta was available. Had it been Kofta Anda, Hector would have been straight in there, however, the primary aim today was to compare like with like. Alas, there was no Lamb Karahi, Lamb Masala appeared twice on the Board. I guessed correctly that this meant Boneless and on-the-bone. Clive opted for – Boneless, for Hector – on-the-bone, both to be served on a bed of Rice.

*

With Clive taken care of, the serving chap stopped midway and looked up at me. Ah, I understood, he was posing, how obliging. With the Curry served, so – The Foliage – was added. The Ginger here was a Paste rather than finely chopped.

Lamb Masala (Boneless)

A big wedge of Ginger – was Clive’s opening remark. My fault, I had placed a big blob on top of his Curry.

Lamb Masala (on-the-bone)

When Rizwan serves us at Kabana, he always ensures that the food is piping hot. The Curry here was warm rather than hot meaning that it would cool significantly as we ate. The first piece of Meat was surprisingly chewy, thereafter all was well. Whilst the Masala had the same appearance as in the Karahi, the Flavour was subtly different. This took me back many years, quite – an old fashioned taste. The Seasoning was a bit below the mother shop’s Karahi. When I included – The Foliage – so I was back in familiar territory. Peppercorns were encountered, slowly Cloves registered on the palate and would form the base of the after-taste.

A good Curry, but could have been served warmer.

Clive finished his meal with a sigh of satisfaction:

Up there, definitely up there.

The Lamb was absolutely gorgeous, perfectly cooked. It deserved to be eaten on its own without the Chillies and Ginger.

Wot, no Foliage?

The Bill

£7.80 – each.

The Aftermath

I had asked if Mani, Mein Host, was present today, alas he had gone. Our paths will cross one day.

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