Glasgow – Murphy’s Pakora Bar – ? Really !

July 4, apart from a General Election, not much happening today, but it is Marg and Hector’s twenty first wedding anniversary. The majority of anniversary dinners have been enjoyed abroad, presently, we need a break from travel. It was Marg who suggested Murphy’s Pakora Bar (1293 Argyle St., Glasgow G3 8TL), the thought having been planted as we passed the premises last week en route to Glasgow Mela 2024.

The 2022 menu was posted in these pages soon after the (re-) opening of Murphy’s Pakora Bar on the site of the former Green Chilli Cafe, all part of the Ashoka chain. A table was booked for 19.30.

Marg loves her Pakora, especially when freshly cooked, which for the Vegetable version, is actually quite rare. Curry-Heute bingo: Marg’s first experience of Pakora was in a Bearsden/Milngavie Curry House where she found her Pakora to be quite horrible. Puzzled as to why everyone was enjoying theirs, it took a few moments to verify that Pakora is not soap fried in batter. In time she visited the original Murphy’s Pakora Bar and found it to her liking.

We arrived early for our booking. After verification, we were summoned upstairs and allocated a booth table in one of the many rooms and alcoves which make up the premises over the two floors. The menu provided, it was make your mind up time.

With some awareness of the menu, I had previously suggested to Marg that rather than follow our usual model of two Mains, one Rice, one Bread, if we were going to overload on Pakora we should share one Curry. On the bone Desi Lamb (£12.50) would be the Curry.

After Vegetable Pakora (£5.50), Marg loves Haggis Pakora (£7.25), whilst Hector’s favourite is Fish Pakora. The latter was not mentioned per se.

A well kent face approached the table, Mein Host.

I know you! – Hector’s immediate proclamation – your photo is on the wall along the road.

Mother India’s Cafe – added Marg.

He then mentioned a former workplace – Creme de la Creme, once Europe’s largest Curry House, not far from these premises, and long gone. This was where Marg and Hector had a first Curry, on a first date, more than three decades ago.

The face I knew, but not the name. The waiter duly provided a business card – Raj Bajwe MBE. Raj was keen to give advice. He suggested we order the – Murphy’s fryer for 2 (£16.00). We both believe we heard him state that the standard portion was – five – and that the – fryer for 2 – would therefore be more to our advantage. He also confirmed that Amritsari Fish (£7.00) was in fact Fish Pakora. Raj also mentioned the Desi Lamb, I explained that this was primarily why I was here.

We were asked if we used a certain social medium.

I’ll do better than that, but I’ll not tell you how until the end.

Raj obliged the anniversary couple and took a photo.

The drinks order was taken, a 750ml bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.95). We needed more time to formulate the rest of our Order. A request repeated twice more.

Tarka masala tots (£5.50) would be our additional Dish. What better than Potato to accompany a Lamb Curry?

Our original waiter was back to take the Order. The components of the – fryer for 2 – was outlined. Samosa – was suggested. Recalling the near horror in Brisbane that was Samosa chat (served here at £9.50) this was quickly rejected. Let’s maximise the Pakora. Double the Fish allocation was agreed. A Paratha (£3.00) would complete the order.

Any allergies?

None, but I verified that no Capsicum would appear in the – On the bone Desi Lamb.

As ever, I asked for my Desi Lamb to be – Desi-style. Belt and braces.

Can I have Desi-Apna-Desi?

Our waiter wrote nothing down, a sign of confidence or a big mistake?

The welcome had been wonderful, we were all set for a great meal. Meanwhile, Raj was working the room.

Murphy’s fryer for 2

Whilst the presentation may have impressed, the Hector was here for the food. Where was it?

Eight pieces of Pakora, two Dips, minimal garnish. If Chef was having a laugh, the Hector did not find it funny. This was outrageous, £2.00 a unit. Days ago, I had a Vegetable Pakora (£5.50) portion with nineteen pieces.

Four pieces of Fish Pakora, of my two, one was fresh, tasty, the other somewhat wizened. The twice fried Vegetable Pakora was – dry. Marg would go on to state that the Haggis Pakora was the best part of the meal. Her solitary piece.

Marg disagrees, but I still feel Haggis Pakora differs little from that served in any Fish & Chip shop.

Where were the Potatoes? The waiter looked puzzled when I asked the whereabouts of the Tarka masala tots. Having checked the machine on the nearby bar, coming soon was promised.

Already, there was the feeling that our single Curry option might not satisfy, when it arrived, this was proven. However, there was the matter of the Paratha.

Paratha

This was as small as a Paratha can be. It was light in colour, approaching a Malabar Parotta. These are typically served small, but the girth and stretchiness were missing. If this was a Malabar Parotta then why not say so on the menu? If not, a rip-off!

We were immediately offered another, declined.

On the bone Desi Lamb

Eight pieces of Meat, four on-the-bone sat in a reasonably viscous Masala. This was not much more than a – tapas – portion. As the Paratha was divvied then duly dipped in the Masala, so the now farcical nature of our meal became obvious.

We needed another Curry. Marg mooted Butter Chicken (£12.00) but knew I would never accept that.

The Lamb was Tender, but was giving back no more than its meatiness. Four pieces each meant a disproportionate ratio of Meat to Masala. One Sucky Bone.

The Spice Level was fine, and worked for both of us. The Seasoning was decidedly lacking. Consequently, a whole lotta Flavour was not coming through.

Onion strips were mixed through the Masala, no Whole Spice. Where was my Clove, Cardamom, Cinnamon Bark? OK, the Lamb was on-the-bone, this does not make a Desi Curry.

In what way was this Curry, Desi? In name only, surely? Curry-Heute recognises this Curry as – Mainstream.

We had each eaten  little more than the volume of any decent sized Starter. The Hector was possibly more hungry than at the start.

Where are the Potatoes?

Still no sign of the Tarka masala tots.

Both our waiter and Raj were in attendance. More Lamb Curry was ordered.

Can you ask Chef to add a bit more Seasoning?

The waiter responded with – Spice?

No, Salt – as I addressed both.

To Raj – do you know the word – Khara?

This was acknowledged. Marg thought I was being condescending. Moi?

More Bread, and going against my usual practice, a Garlic Naan (£4.00) was added.

Logically, the Potatoes could have arrived in the interim. Guess what?

On the bone Desi Lamb – #2

Behold a Shorva! The Masala was way more – Soupy – than its predecessor. The Meat count appeared to be more, but so was the Bone.

The Garlic Naan was a classic example of why I generally avoid them. Served in bits, light, peely wally, no sign of Tawa/Tandoori blistering, soggy. There was but a threat of Coriander. Needless to say, the pungency of the Garlic was going to dominate all else.

*

*

Tarka masala tots

Ah, the Potatoes! As a – Small Plate – this felt as though there was a comparable volume to the main course – Curry. The – Tarka? There was Soupçon hidden beneath the Coriander Leaves. The cubed Potatoes had a decent Texture, unlike the Lamb, here Flavour had been absorbed. The Masala seemed no different from that which was classed as – Desi. The missing link, we now had Meat and Potato, an excellent Curry combination. There was a chance we might actually fill our still empty stomachs.

The thinner Desi Masala had no more Seasoning than version #1.

Plus ca change.

There was no Masala Tea available, Marg’s favourite.

Marg ordered a Latte (£3.50).

Sorry, the machine is not working today – advised the waitress.

We had come to dine, it was still under an hour since we had sat down.

I won’t be back here – declared Marg.

Usually I would ask for more words, this says enough.

Coincidentally, these were a variation of Marg’s words when we last visited these premises as Green Chilli Cafe:

I don’t think you’ll be coming back here.

The Bill

£57.70 The biggest Bill for the smallest amount of food ever served in a Curry House. In over two thousand reviews on Curry-Heute, significant.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was given to the waiter who concluded I had a Curry House. On clarifying otherwise, he immediately asked for a second which was given to Mein Host.

The review was promised as soon as. Reading any posts prior to this should outline why Glasgow’s Southside is considered the place to go for Curry in this city.

There is so much better to be had than the – Mainstream.

2024 Menu

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Glasgow – Sheerin Palace – Back for More Aloo Keema!

There I was on a July morning, looking for – Curry. (sorry, Ken).

Setting off for Curry before noon in Glasgow is quite unusual, however, the post-Curry activity on a Monday is shifting earlier as time passes. The joy of retirement.

After Saturday’s Soupçon of Aloo Keema at Sheerin Palace (300 Allison St, Govanhill/Crosshill, Glasgow, G42 8HQ) the Hector was certainly coming back for more. Mobeen, usually front of house, is the stand-in Chef whilst the main man is on vacation. And so it was a ridiculously early 12.30 when the Hector reached the Southside.

Mince – was the greeting from the chap behind the counter. My near rapturous appreciation of Saturday’s Soupçon must have registered. Mobeen appeared from the kitchen – nearly ready – was the advice. I added a Naan to my Order of – Aloo Keema.

I took the same table as Saturday, but decided to face the opposite direction. A chap on my left was finishing his Bread and Vegetable creation. As the Aloo Keema was not out on display already confirmed that the Hector was about to have it – fresh.

Ten minutes – I was further advised.

I’m in no hurry.

The round Naan was served whole, yay. With a decent girth in the centre, plus a risen, puffy periphery, this proved to be an excellent Naan. Light and fluffy, delightful, I nearly managed the lot. Unheard of.

*

*

*

Aloo Keema

OK, let’s recognise the excessive Oil around the rim. A heart attack on a plate, but it mostly disappeared when stirred in. Five pieces of Potato accompanied the mass of Mince. I took it to be Lamb Mince despite the lighter colour. I wasn’t going to ask and have – Chicken – spoil the day. Tomato skins, a piece of cooked in Bullet Chilli and Coriander were mixed through what was a much wetter affair compared to Saturday. Aloo Keema should be almost – Dry.

The Spice hit the back of the throat, quite a bite in there. The Seasoning was a la Hector, right up there. The Methi was less pronounced. I had to accept that a freshly cooked Curry cannot have the intensity and/or depth of Flavour compared to a one that has had time to rest. Whilst the heat of the Spice had permeated the Potato, the full Flavours had not.

In time, there was an awareness of a gentle Clove Flavour coming though. Enjoyable of course, but this lacked the – Wow! – of Saturday’s that had me rushing back. The Curry-Heute Test.

Mobeen came though to check all was well. That he is presently the Chef may explain why he is keen to establish that standards are being maintained. By late afternoon, this Aloo Keema would have been way better.

As I ate, so four chaps took the window table. Two portions of Nihari, four Naan, two Chapattis. I had never previously seen Nihari at Sheerin Palace. Lamb Shank served in their Shorva. I was once again witnessing people having Bread with Curry as opposed to Curry with Bread. 

The Bill

£8.00    Is this the best value in the city?

The Aftermath

The Aloo Keema was now on display. There was no Aloo Gobi left from yesterday else I would have had some.  I established that Nihari is usually always available, tempting.

Mobeen was once again keen to have me know he is the stand-in Chef. With so many new faces I was wondering if there had been a major change at Sheerin Palace. Ali – is the man, is he Chef? It is he who is on vacation, I assume.

I asked above their former Chef Zahir who now has Shahi Mahal round the corner. He was here for some two-three years only.

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Glasgow – Sheerin Palace – The Warmest Reception Yet

Sheerin Palace (300 Allison St, Govanhill/Crosshill, Glasgow, G42 8HQ), it had to be. As I perused the business end of the menu at The Village earlier in the week, the desire to have Kofta Anda was planted in the mind. The choice was Kofta in The Village’s rich Masala, or the more traditional – Kofta Anda served in Shorva. It has been a while, I chose the latter.

Arriving at Sheerin Palace at 13.00, I squeezed past the two chaps queuing at the counter to secure one of the five tables in the room to the left. The table still had some debris, this was soon wiped clean, properly. I hadn’t seen any familiar faces when I placed my Order: Kofta Anda and Rice. Momentarily, this changed.

Mobeen must have seen me enter, he emerged from the kitchen and came through to the dining area. That he hadn’t seen me for some time was mentioned. I know Kofta Anda is always available on a Saturday (& Wednesday) – was my explanation for being here. Why he wasn’t in his usual spot behind the counter was revealed later.

Note, I can never quote prices at Sheerin Palace. If prices are posted, which surely they must, I’ve never spotted them. And as for a menu, forget it.

The (new) chap who was dealing with the visiting dignitaries brought me a wad of napkins, cutlery and a Raita. The Raita remained untouched. I asked for water, a bottle of Still, not particularly chilled, arrived, the glass only when asked for.

Three fellow diners departed, ask me about them privately if you wish.

Chicken Pilao

This is what usually comes when Rice is ordered. The multi-coloured Rice is pre-cooked and always on display.

The plateful was massive, two spoons were provided, certainly enough to share. Defeat was inevitable, just like watching Scotland at the Euros.

Two sizeable pieces of Chicken served on-the-bone, one buried, were in the mass of Pilau. A threat of Coriander, and a slice of a Bullet Chili were in the mix.

The Rice, lightly Spiced, had its own distinctive Flavour. The Raita may well have been the intended accompaniment, however, there was sufficient moistness that this could have been enjoyed on its own. Anyway, the Shorva was about to be added.

Kofta Anda

Four, not particularly large, Meatballs and one Boiled Egg sat in the Shorva. Previously, I have tackled this with a Chapatti and made quite a mess of myself. Rice may not be the ideal accompaniment, but is decidedly more practical. The thin Masala therefore tends to be absorbed quickly by the Rice, but as mentioned, there was sufficient moisture all round.

The colour suggested Lamb Kofta. Each Meatball would be quartered as encountered, eke the Meat out. Of course there was still the Chicken and the Egg. Spice coloured to a depth of about 2mm, the interior of the Chicken was as white as snow. And people order Chicken Curry.

A Green Cardamom, Clove plus pieces of Cinnamon Bark were set aside. Having mixed the Pilau with the Shorva, I cannot be certain from where the Whole Spices originated. They did their job.

There was a good Spicy blast, the Clove Flavour pronounced at times. This was comfort eating but eating all the Rice would have led to discomfort. As I weighed up the options, so more food was brought to the table. The chap was back, a side-plate with not one Soupçon, but two!

Aloo Keema (right)

The lighter colour on the right I took to be Lamb Mince. One piece of Potato made this an Aloo Keema.

Wow! – the Seasoning, the Methi, both pronounced. A Whole Clove was found here also. Aloo Keema has never tasted so good. A couple more chaps arrived, I had to tell them. But they already knew why they were here.

Chicken Palak (left)

Apart form adding protein, the Chicken wasn’t offering much. The complexity of the Herb-rich Masala Mash was evident. Nearby Yadgar have stated that they incorporate five different herbs in their version, so not just Spinach.

Back to the Egg and Meatballs, the remaining Shorva and the unmanageable Rice. I drew a line on the plate, the leftover Rice was going home. Egg in a Curry, why does this work so well? A different Texture, Flavours absorbed, like Potato, the perfect accompaniment.

In time, I took my plate up to the counter.

The Bill

£12.50    Still cash only,  great value.

The Aftermath

Mobeen seemed keen to chat further. It was only at this point that I established his name. With my visits to Sheerin Palace being sporadic, I began to wonder if we had previously met at another venue. Perhaps he has just been ever-present on my visits. Mobeen is acting Chef whilst the main man is on vacation.

I praised the Aloo Keema and  asked about its availability.

Aloo Keema – Friday & Monday. The chap who had taken my Order added: Aloo Gobi – Sunday. If only there was a menu posted. A return on Monday was now guaranteed.

Walking back along Allison Street I noted that Glasgow’s only Portuguese owned Curry House is no more.

Sara – Donner Kebab is now – Pizza Factory – which does not serve Curry.

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Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – Pleasure In The Extreme

The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA) continues to suit Hector’s requirements: open at lunchtime, and all day. The location is also favourable, a short walk across the Clyde or, as in today, minutes from the Subway. Today was the Hector’s first experience of the new Subway rolling stock. A minimalist interior, and thankfully no automated announcements re the closing doors. But what is the next station? Occasionally, the non-driver informed us.

The Glasgow Subway, smaller on the inside than it is on the outside.

Entering The Village at 13.25, twelve other diners were in situ. The waitress, still masked, led me to a small table as close to the wean in the high chair as was possible, without sharing it. OK, I could have requested another, but if I don’t suffer, I don’t get to moan. Perhaps I should scream and throw everything on the floor?

The main menu was brought, but only after I asked for it. Did I really need it? Lamb Achari (£12.95) with Mushroom Rice (£3.50) is why I was here. Since my return to Glasgow I’ve had Desi Qorma and Karahi Gosht aplenty, time to have the other favourites. Kofta Anda may well be next. Do I come here or go to Sheerin Palace for Shorva? The Village is the only Curry House in Glasgow which has all of these available at all times. Methi Gosht too. It looks as though I might be moving back in here as it felt in the late 1990s. Tempting.

The waitress took my Order: Desi-style, and on-the-bone.

Desi medium or Desi spicy? – I was asked.

There was only one answer.

It took two attempts to secure the jug of tap water. I had considered my customary Sparkling Water, but as the water south of the river appears to have recovered from last year’s bleach contamination, let’s enjoy it.

Mr. Baig, Mein Host, was present this afternoon but was engrossed in conversation at another table. Meanwhile, after a needless runaround, the wean was tearing a Scottish roll apart and chucking all the bits on the floor. Who had to clear this up?

The Mushroom Rice was once again served on a plate. This guarantees a plateful. Hopefully the former bowls have become a thing of the past. Lightly Spiced, fresh Mushrooms, satisfying.

*

*

Lamb Achari – Desi-style on-the-bone

The Meat count was into double figures, just. Only two large bones, so sufficient eating. The Masala was classic Village, viscous, and in a sensible ratio to the Meat content. As ever, I held some back for the end game.

The Seasoning and the Pickle hit the palate hard. How often have I had to review an Achari where the Pickle has hardly been there? There was no holding back, the Pickle also added more solids, and so with the Mushrooms, a variety of Textures. The underlying Village Curry Taste was there, the Spice was building. Hector was in a good place.

The Tenderest of Lamb, quality Meat which retained its integrity until the required minimal chewing.

Spice and Flavour in a Curry, this will never catch on.

Such was the Pickle content, this Curry was becoming quite a test. Hector was up for this. Spice, Seasoning and Pickle, the intensity was remarkable, depth of Flavour in the extreme. What a creation.

The Bill

£16.45  Still competitively priced.

The Aftermath

I crossed the road to take a photo of the ongoing works. I see the conversion of the upper floor to flats includes the addition of another level. 

Apply within.

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Curry-Heute Visits – Glasgow Mela – 2024

Today was Marg and Hector’s fourth Glasgow Mela. A day when the majority of the congregation, having a  heritage in the Indian Subcontinent, mingle in Kelvingrove Park, whilst avoiding what appears to be a pram rally. No Bier tent – was one observation made before a further realisation dawned. After the – Around The World In 80 Days – sojourn I have become used to a significant oriental  presence at every locus. Not today, and quite unusual in Glasgow’s West End. Was this down to there being no big onions in the blandest of yellow sauces?

2014 was our first Mela, then in its twenty fourth year, so today makes thirty four, half a lifetime. When it rains, it’s horrible, thankfully today we were spared. Parking in our usual spot near Madhras Dosa we made our way along Kelvingrove. It was 14.45 when we entered the Park, the crowd was sizeable, have I mentioned prams?

A small tent had a female choir, I was more amused by the adjacent Chaiiwalla tent, not that I was about to have any of that milky nonsense, but I thought Marg might have made a beeline. The main Curry stalls were in situ, same locus as every year. Last time I had Karahi Gosht from Red Cherry (Manchester), today I was determined to have the same but from Lahori Street Food. In 2019, arriving at the close of play, the Hector talked the boss of the then closed stall into supplying food for two. As no money changed hands, it’s about time we put put cash in the coffers of Shangreela Caterers (3 King Cliffe Rd, Huddersfield HD2 2RR England).

Hundreds queuing for Curry, what a wonderful sight. Punjabi-English Curry too, there were no big Glasgow names on site today as there have been in the past. With multiple queues  the – normal distribution – came to mind, I chose a line at the edge of the throng. Yes it was shorter, but then it hardly moved. Marg became involved when she observed the people in the adjacent queue being served by one of the two chaps in our section. Having concluded the people in front of us were needing managed, Marg was straight in there directing all until it was our fair turn. (I am always wary of posting photos of – the crowd – but there was a sign near the entrance warning that anyone passing that point can expect to be photographed, and by doing so, give consent.)

Before Marg sorted the World, and I believe our mammoth trip has made us both less tolerant of the docile, I managed to secure photos of the Fayre. Chicken, of course, for the masses, plus lots of Seekh Kebab. The Karahi Gosht stood out, proper Curry and served on-the-bone.

Meat Karahi with Rice (£12.00), twice, plus a Pink Tea was the Order. Salad with the Karahi was declined. No Tea, so Marg had Mango Lassi (£2.00). By this time we had four chaps serving our section.

The Bill

£26.00    Card payment was being accepted.

Whilst Marg waited for the food, the Hector went off to command a space at a table, no problem. Just the one pram.

Meat Karahi with Rice

The Rice was sticky in parts, producing Basmati by the tonne must be difficult. There was a threat of Spice on the Rice, not too shabby.

The Curry was decidedly on the small side, a mini-portion. I counted just seven bits of Meat, three of which were on-the-bone. Marg took pity and made mine up to the standard eight.

The Meat was Super-soft, bursting with Flavour, no Sucky Bones for Hector. The taste of English Curry, nay – Yorkshire Curry – was most apparent. Glasgow Karahi is markedly different, this was going to be thoroughly enjoyed, albeit a frustratingly small portion.

Whole Cloves were not visible, their Flavour came across a la Manchester Curry. Traces of sliced Green Chillies were strewn through the Thick, Minimal Masala. The Spice and Seasoning were – spot on – as Super Ally has been known to remark. Indeed, Marg and I agreed that the Spice Level was well above what one might expect for a Curry being served to the greater populace. Marg:

I thought it was very tasty, with a good level of spice. Tender meat, and a good helping of rice.

The Hector could happily have eaten twice as much, maybe a case for applying the old – India Club – tactic, three portions for two peeps.

The Aftermath

Ice Cream always follows, I had to remind Marg that better was available off site. We toured the rest of the event.

Marg was almost in the photo she took of the ladies having a break between shows. The big stage had a Qawwali band, Allah Hoo was ending as we walked on to the blaes. Nusrat has been gone for twenty seven years…

We watched for a while, easy songs to pick up as everything is repeated a la Middle of The Road. The sun came out, unglaublich.

And so we walked though the new section of the University campus to the bottom of Byres Road, what a mess they are making of this thoroughfare. Yet another cycle lane, tables on the pavement, so what about the pedestrians?

Little Curry House is undergoing expansion, not so little then.

University Cafe ice-cream, I know of no better in Glasgow, Scotland, The World!

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Clydebank – Spice India – A Sneaky Pakora

With a visit to Glasgow Mela planned for tomorrow, there was no Curry-Heute. However, there was a visit to the local Indian Takeaway, Spice India (133 Riddle Street, Clydebank G81 2DH) most unusual. The Curry had here to date has not set the heather on fire, but that was not the objective when the Hector headed home. A late night Clydebank Kebap was the plan but on realising the train wasn’t going that way, a new plan was conceived.

Alighting at Drumry and walking up the hill, Dönner became Pakora, in fact any Starter would be considered.

*

What Starters do you have? – was duly asked.

Pakora was offered, a Large Pakora (£5.50) was agreed, but only after establishing that the portion would be eighteen to twenty pieces.

Frying Tonight

After moments of last minute preparation, good sounds emanated from the cooking area to which my vision was obscured.

I did manage a couple of photos of the interior.

Bag in hand, home.

Nineteen pieces of double fried Vegetable Pakora and one tub of Yoghurt Sauce were arranged on a large dinner plate. This was shy of the thirty plus pieces which have been served at Dumbarton’s Delhi Darbar over the years, but great value none the less. One still recalls the absurdity of the portion of Pakora served at The Wee Curry Shop (Ashton Lane) in the early days of Curry-Heute.

One tub of Sauce, this had to be eked out. The Spice and Seasoning suited the Hector palate, a good start. Onion, Mashed Potato and traces of Coriander were in the batter. No sign of Coriander Seeds as per Hector’s Pakora Recipe. The occasional piece of Potato was less than perfect, i.e. – hard.

This is how to enjoy Pakora, no main course to follow, enjoy the creation for what it is. This was quite a departure from a late night Dönner, less messy for a start. 

2024 Menu extract

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Glasgow – Handi By Darbar – The 1200th Scottish Review On Curry-Heute

Not only is it the day of Eid Mubarak, today is cause for other celebration. The Curry at Handi by Darbar (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) marks the 1200th review of Curry in Scotland on this extensive Blog. Oops, I initially saw this as 2000!  Maybe Specsavers is calling. England #500 is certainly on the horizon.

More than just a Glasgow Curry Blog – has been the tagline since post #1. Glasgow does make up the majority of the 1200 Scottish reviews, but then there’s over a thousand for the – rest of the World. 

With some of The Company away on a trip, why all this travelling (?), there was a later start for – The Monday Club. This enabled Hector to visit Handi By Darbar for the now 15.00 opening. Moiz, Mein Host, assured me that he would be there already for a big order, we could come earlier. It was 14.30 when Marg and Hector ignored the shutters and took the preferred street level table. Moiz and four other staff were on duty. Hector was here for the Lamb Handi Korma, but what size of portion? Marg was not committing herself until she had studied the menu. Her preferred Keema ain’t there. Marg would follow Hector’s lead. A kilo (£32.00) it was, the plan, to take some home for later in the week. Rice is the preferred accompaniment for this Shahi Curry. With Marg hopefully willing to share, there was the opperchancity to have Veg Biryani (£7.95). Curry and an Interesting Vegetable, a special meal. Marg still wanted a Chapatti (£1.50).

Two bottles of Sparking Water (£1.50) completed the Order, for the moment.

Glasses are provided on request.

The shutters were still down as we sat in the reorganised – downstairs – seating area. With three of the four tables set up with cutlery, one wonders why the #1 table was not. The waiter came back to advise that they were out of Chapatti dough, would a Naan suffice? An upgrade.

A chap came in for Takeaway, followed soon after by the lady who was here to collect – The Big Job.

Moiz brought our food to the table. We never miss a photo opperchancity.

The Naan was almost whole. Puffy around the edges, risen, this was surely way better than a Roti?

*

*

*

Veg Biryani

The Rice was piled high above the rim of the handi. Having taken a plateful, there wasn’t much of a dent in the volume. Marg took a modest helping. Remember, the handi has a false bottom, but still, a decent amount would go home.

Cauliflower, Broccoli, Onions, Peas and Carrots were the Interesting Vegetables, no Potato. Marg was intrigued to find Plum stones, often a feature of a Biryani. Additionally, Black Peppercorns and Tomato were revealed as we ate. No – Curry Sauce – accompanied as was a feature of many a Glasgow Biryani back in the day. We have been educated, but some still expect it.

Moist in its own right, the Rice was Flavoursome, the Carrots al dente. Had I ordered this as a stand-alone Dish, I would still have been looking for Masala on the side.

Lamb Korma Handi

A Desi Korma, Hector’s favourite – Curry – differentiating from – Karahi. Topped with Coriander and slices of Bullet Chillies, it looked the part, but there was more Oil than I would have preferred. Still, one needs Oil. There was sufficient Masala to shroud the Meat served on-the-bone as all Lamb Curry is served at Handi By Darbar.

I took a  plateful, Marg was less ambitious. Something approaching a decent portion should be left over.

Having put Spice on the palate when sampling the Biryani, the Desi Korma instantly gave so much more. Powerful, but not OTT.

It’s lovely – was Marg’s opening remark.

When last given the chance of having this Curry at Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin) last year, Marg took the easier Fish Curry option. Lamb on-the-bone, there’s always a minor protest. Today, no escape.

The Seasoning was a la Hector, Moiz is learning. The Spice was moderate at the start and would build. The extra Chillies were there as and when required.

The super-soft Lamb was close to the edge, maybe some pieces too near pulp. No dental damage today, but with Bones, Cinnamon Bark, and plum stones in the mix, best to take care. #DavidC, if he’s reading this.

As we had both carefully removed the Meat and Masala from the karahi, quite an Oil slick had formed at the base. Good for dipping, but Hector was concentrating on the Biryani, not the Bread.

The Flavours were suitably intense, Clove to begin with, and in time, the – Citrus – would emerge. From the Yoghurt, I have been told. We ate enough, we had left sufficient to make Takeaway worthwhile. Such a satisfying Curry, and to the best of my knowledge, only served in two venues in Glasgow, and both on the same street.

Enter Sir Howard sporting his – Master of Reality – t-shirt.

I had announced my plan to be here for 15.00, Howard decided to make a surprise appearance. Marg and Hector were well underway. Sharing what we had was a possibility, but that would have thwarted Hector’s plan for the day. Howard also planned to take food back to Helensburgh. Two portions of Lamb Handi Korma (£12.00) were ordered, one to eat in one for Takeaway. A Naan (£2.00) and a soft drink completed his Order. Have soft drinks come down in price? Sparkling Water was previously £2.00.

Marg thought Howard’s Desi Korma was more yellow. The Hector wasn’t paying much attention, too busy finishing off the main feast.

Marg’s wasn’t finished, a Masala Tea (£2.50) would complete her meal. Not the version which Moiz has treated the Hector to on previous visits, but the milky version. No further comment. Marg’s verdict:

That was wonderful! An excellent, earthy and tangy flavour, in both the meat and sauce. The Naan was lovely and crisp in the middle, thin, and more like a Roti.

Howard offered a few words also:

These days I struggle with Curry. As indeed I do with other meals. As such, I was worried about joining for the 2000th Scottish review (one day!). In the end, the quality and portion size of the Curry was ideal. Both the sauce and the meat had flavour, and there was a citrus edge. A lot of bones, but the portion size with the Naan was perfect. The last part was that the spice level was also spot on.

The Bill

Marg & Hector’s – £46.95.

Unlike the USA where the price you see becomes inflated, twice, there was a Hector discount. Who pays for – Tea?

The Aftermath

Moiz was away as we departed. Much waving conveyed the level of satisfaction to the remaining staff.

This is year #15 of Curry-Heute, hopefully Hector will be around for the actual  2000 Scottish reviews.  

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Glasgow – Madurai – Visit #1

Does Glasgow’s city centre need another South Indian Restaurant? Well it has one.

Madurai (The Exchange Building, 142a St. Vincent Street, Glasgow G2 5LQ), a few doors down, is in direct competition to the long established Banana Leaf, nearby Rishi’s Indian Aroma and the excellent Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen. Madurai, a street level restaurant, opened a few weeks back whist the Hector was otherwise occupied. A veritable cluster of South Indian Curry Houses has now evolved west of Central Station.

Madurai opens daily at noon (Sundays, 13.00) and remains open throughout the afternoon. On such a prime site, one block from Central Station, there is no point being closed mid-afternoon. This of course suits Hector’s preferred eating pattern.

Arriving at 13.05, four ladies occupied two window tables, another solo diner was sat beyond the flowers. The long dining room created the impression of being relatively narrow, the bar at the far end may or may not be licensed. One would assume it is, but only soft drinks were offered. A jug of water was requested, a glass granted.

The menu has only two Lamb Curry options: Mappas (£14.95) and Inji (£14.95). Chutta Monkfish (£21.95) in the – Grill – section is the only main course Fish option. Having been – Around the World in 80 Days – and yes I will keep referring to this until I don’t, why is that only in the UK is Fish more expensive than Meat? Are we not surrounded by – Fish?

Inji Lamb was the more attractive of the Lamb Dishes, it didn’t mention – Coconut. However, – Paprika infused – had to be investigated.

Will I see any Capsicum?

It was suggested that I should not, but Chef would be advised of my preference.

To accompany, Masala Rice (£4.95) was considered, but I settled for Basmati (£3.25).

The waiter drew my attention to the lunchtime Thali (£14.95), available until 15.00.

Is it the same size of Curry?

No.

Hector was here to appraise the Curry, as much of it as possible.

The young waiters would prove to be both attentive and informative.

I took in my surroundings. The instrumental synth-music felt a bit tame, repetitive. Maybe Glasgow Curry Houses are not ready for – Klaus Schulze – the Maestro. Behind me, the ladies were finishing their Thali.

Very **** – was the verdict of one.

QED.

The Rice portion appeared to be minimal, served in a seemingly small metal pot. How deceptive this was. Quite a plateful, Hector would eventually accept defeat.

Inji Lamb

The Ginger Strip garnish also featured a solitary Curry Leaf, more would be unearthed. As he placed the karahi on the table, the waiter checked that I had no issue with – Black Pepper.

Only Green, it is my opinion that Capsicum should be nowhere near Curry.

Eleven pieces of Meat were arranged on the Rice. Not a huge portion, city centre prices. The Masala impressed visually, this was proper Curry, not the thin Shorva as served at Banana Leaf. By retaining my usual half of the Masala in the karahi, here was a suitably Thick, Dry Curry. For years I have been asking why I could not have such a South Indian Curry.

Powerful Flavours are what is associated with South Indian Curry, the anticipated – smokiness – was there, a distinct – Pepperiness – too. Two major positives, there had to be a negative. There was more than a sense of – Cream – yet the rich, dark colour had  masked this. The jury was out on whether the Lamb was giving more than just – meatiness. Initially, I felt there was Spice coming back, latterly not.

As the Curry Leaves were set aside, does anyone eat them, so a Green Cardamom was revealed. Whole Spice, another positive.

Meat and Masala, no Interesting Vegetable, I couldn’t have managed any more food, but had I been dining with company, maybe a share of Spinach Kilangu (£9.95) would have complemented the Curry – Potato! Meat and Masala, I have to admit that the Thali option would have offered more Diversity. Two meat curries – do Madurai determine what these are, or could one choose two Lamb?

The appetite was sated, I was eating an hour before the preferred time, the – creaminess – was also taking its toll. Time to stop.

The table was cleared, another waiter came to wipe it.

I don’t think I’ve made any mess.

The Bill

£18.20  I could have had the introductory offer : Two Course Lunch (£9.95).

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was presented to the senior waiter. Unlike Banana Leaf, the Hector was not recognised on Visit #1, are all the staff new to this work?

The viscosity of the Masala was praised, but I had to state that for me, the Creaminess had been overdone. Coconut Milk – was the explanation, ah Coconut. He went on to mention that all their food is – gluten free, and they can cater for vegans. If/when Alison (Auckland) comes back to Glasgow, Madurai will be the venue. No dairy?

Hector will be back, two Starters might make a sufficient meal. Fish Croquettes (£6.95) must be worth a try, Lamb Ulathu (£6.95) sounds like a Sukka/Chukka, a Hector favourite.

Curryspondent John, over to you…

2024 Menu

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Hector Cooks – Lamb Curry for One, featuring Dukkah

Way back on Day 18 of – Round The World In 80 Days, Alison, our host in Auckland, introduced Hector to the blend of Nuts/Herbs/Spices that is Dukkah. This was tastiest, not Curried Lamb, the Hector has ever experienced. Imagine Dukkah Lamb in a Curry.  I was given three packets to take home, these have therefore travelled halfway around the World!

With Marg away, already, representing her country in a certain sport, the Hector was let loose in the kitchen, an opperchancity to experiment.

Two gigot chops were smothered in Dukkah and left to marinate, hopefully, for a few hours. Coated in the mix, these were fried to approaching – cooked – then left to rest. Adding cooked Lamb to a Masala is how it’s done.

The – Beginners Curry recipe – provided the basis for what follows. Frozen Onion, less than usual, was defrosted then added to copious hot Oil with the grated Ginger and Garlic.

The Whole Spices: Cloves, Cinnamon, Cumin Seeds, Black Peppercorns, Black Cardamom, Coriander Seeds and a piece of Star Anise, were stirred in after the Onion mash had been given some twenty minutes. The intention was that the hot Oil would force out the Flavours, popping even.

The tin of Tomatoes and a squirt of Puree were added, the Masala was becoming more recognisable.

Powdered Kashmiri Chili, Turmeric, a Jeera-rich Garam Masala, the all important Salt and dried Methi were quickly followed by three chopped Green Chillies.

Stirring occasionally, this was given another twenty minutes before adding chopped Coriander leaves and stems. Ten minutes minimum here, I gave it another twenty.

It was time for the Dukkah Lamb and Mushrooms to go in.

There had to be a dollop of Yoghurt, thankfully there was no curdling.

Another ten minutes and the Oil had clearly separated, the telltale sign – the Curry is ready.

A sensible portion of Basmati was the accompaniment. I served up the majority of what was in the pot, not enough for another portion, not too much to waste if it’s horrible.

The appearance of the Masala had the Hector won, not dissimilar to the beloved Desi Korma, but of course, this Curry had been made from scratch, no packet-mix cheating here. No Nutmeg, it simply doesn’t come to mind despite sitting on the kitchen counter.

The eternal problem when the Hector cooks Curry, the outcome is – Hector Curry. This too had that inevitability, but there was something else happening here.

The Seasoning was a la Hector, and not once did I sample it whilst cooking. I know how much Salt is required, even when cooking for one. The Chillies had not been overdone, no sweat. It’s now down to the Flavour.

And there was some, in fact many.

Although Marg was present for my final two US wonder-Curry experiences, she was not eating Curry. Nobody was there to witness the extreme pleasure of Monday’s Desi Qorma at The Village. Tonight, Hector dines alone, and has a Curry of merit before him.

The Cloves were prominent, not dominant, the Cinnamon Bark had infused into the Masala. The Star Anise was judged to perfection, just enough. Then there was the Methi, and Coriander, a Herb-rich Curry.

The slightly pink Meat at the time of adding was now cooked through. The Dukkah was hardly visible but must have worked its magic, this was tasty Lamb. Tender of course and the Bones had been added to the Mash. Maybe these could have gone in earlier.

The Mushrooms were dead. I should have kept these out until moments before serving, not such an Interesting Vegetable.

I quickly realised that the plate was emptying, back for the rest.

Oh, Hector, why did you not use a slotted spoon?

The Oil slick could easily have been avoided.

Letting gravity do its job, I ate from the front of the plate. All was well.

A Hector Curry enjoyed by Hector, QED.

My next Beef Steak will be griddled with Dukkah.

Whilst this was a New Zealand brand, Dukkah is available in the UK, of course. Why had I never encountered this before l travelled half way around the planet?

Someone once asked in these very pages – why all the travelling?

The Aftermath

I’ve never before had a plum that tasted of Cumin. So even after washing up, this had stuck to the fingers.

Twenty four hours until Euro 2024 kicks off. What could possibly go wrong?

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Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – Curry, As Good As It Gets

Lamb Desi Korma, without doubt, Hector’s favourite Curry. With the outstanding example at Curry Leaf (Albany NY, USA), a mere eight days ago, foremost in mind for Curry-Heute, Hector set out this Monday lunchtime. The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA) is where the Hector ended up, but only after finding Handi By Darbar, along the street, to be closed. The non-reliability of opening times there has proved to be frustrating in recent times. The Village is always open early afternoon.

Entering The Village at 13.05, there was a momentary wait to be seated in the near empty restaurant. Mr. Baig, Mein Host, joined me at my table, it would be a further ten minutes or so before the Order for Lamb Desi Qorma (£12.95) on-the-bone with Mushroom Rice (£3.50) would be placed.

Mr. Baig was aware of Hector’s – Grand Trip – either via a certain social medium or in following these pages. I didn’t know he did so. Today is Village #97, #100 is looming, a presentation can hopefully be arranged.

The precarious status of restaurants across the city was raised by Mr. Baig. Despite an imminent drop in fuel prices, many are locked into contracts and are bleeding cash, whilst fuel company shareholders cream off the outrageous profits. So it goes.

There is scaffolding shrouding the original Village building. I was informed it is being converted into flats. Oh to live there. Mr. Baig, the landlord, another source of income at least.

Subdividing the dining area to create a function suite was mooted. Then the big issue, Buffet. When The Village hosts a Ramadan Buffet the place is always stowed. I suggested that if this was always available it would lose its charm.

Punjabi Specials – were mooted, but then how would we know what was on? Paya and Haleem they can keep. Mr. Baig accepted that the majority of customers still seek the lesser Chicken Tikka Masala and its variants.

This is why I write Curry-Heute – I assured him – to make people aware that there is so much better to be had.

As he took his leave, I heard Mr. Baig say – Desi – to the waitress. And so the Order was placed. Poppadoms were declined.

Do I have to ask for Desi when I order a Desi Korma? – I had to ask. The waitress confirmed that she had been pre-warned — he told me.

A jug of chilled tap water was duly provided. I was keen to taste this. Fortunately the Southside bleach contamination of ’23 appears to have dissipated, writes the man who just returned from the land of bleached Chicken.

Whilst I waited, there was communication from Moiz of Handi By Darbar. Their current opening time has changed to 15.00. Ah well, Hector will not be visiting this up and coming venue for the foreseeable. In the same direction lies the new premises for Namak Mandi, still to be reviewed. To the west is DumPukht Lahori, again visits there are restricted due to a later opening time.

Nelson Street, what a Curry axis this is, but currently not achieving its potential yield at lunchtimes. If only the theoretical thousands employed in the new Barclay’s building were made to go to work.

The annoying bowl has been dispensed with. Hector was presented with a proper plateful of Mushroom Rice. The treated Rice is another source of Flavour, more on this below.

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Lamb Desi Qorma on-the-bone

Topped with Ginger Strips and Fresh Coriander leaves and stems, the ratio of Meat to Masala looked appropriate. No Soup here. The Masala looked menacing, suitably Thick, only a hint of Oil separating on the periphery.

As I covered the Rice, so the Meat count reached double figures, only the two large, Lamb-enshrouded bones. No Sucky Bones.

Curry Leaf (Albany NY, USA) set a new standard with their Punjabi Korma, now the Hector was faced with a dilemma. Was the the magnificence of the Desi Qorma down to the sinuses having cleared, or was today’s a step above what is typically served here?

The Seasoning was wild, way above what some might find comfortable. Perfect for Hector, consequently, the Flavours of this Desi Korma were erupting on the palate.

Cloves, I saw none, I tasted many. A Green Cardamom was unearthed, as were two semi-spherical, the heart skipped a beat, not more disintegrating dentistry, – Peppercorns, yay! Whole Spices, the sign of pedigree.

Quality Lamb, easy to spot after a diet of Goat in recent times. As Tender as Lamb can be, and critically, giving back the Flavour of the Spices. There was a grittiness in the Masala, the Coriander Stems, a variety of Textures. With the Masala Spices absorbed by the Mushrooms, another source of intense Flavour, another Texture. Then there was the extra boost from whatever had coloured the Rice. It was all happening here.

In passing, Mr. Baig asked – is it alright?

It’s all about the Seasoning, if you don’t get this right, you have nothing. This is wonderful!

The retained Masala was called upon, the final grains of Rice needed sauce. Every grain was managed, the ideal quantity, an empty plate ensued.

Curry-Heute does not give scores, comparisons are unavoidable.

Curry Leaf’s Punjabi Korma was reckoned to become the Curry of ’24, The Village’s Desi Qorma was served – on-the-bone. Draw your own conclusion.

Mr. Baig took the payment.

The Bill

£16.45. I’ll give a contribution towards the gas bill.

The Aftermath

We looked out the window, this downpour was not forecast. It soon cleared. Welcome home.

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