Edinburgh – Kebab Mahal – The Man From Bradford Says – Yes!

The Rickmeister, aka The Man from Bradford, set the challenge of choosing the venue for our first ever Curry together in Edinburgh. The choice was simple: Kebab Mahal (7 Nicolson Square, Edinburgh EH8 9BH) is the closest thing Edinburgh has to offer which resembles both the Curry Cafes of Glasgow’s Southside and of course the Curry Houses of Bradford which we have visited most. Dr. Stan makes an appearance today also, he knows the score.

Arriving at Kebab Mahal at 14.30, all but one of the tables were occupied, soon all would be. It is the day before the start of the Edinburgh Festival, an entertainment group from the USA took up two tables near the door. Mr. Khan, Mein Host, acknowledged me as I entered, it is some three years since I last set foot in these premises. Monty’s has gone, the only pub in Edinburgh, so why come through? Part of today’s mission was to establish otherwise.

By chance rather than design, today we would add three Dishes to the coverage of Kebab Mahal, i.e. not seen previously in Curry-Heute. Aloo Ghoust (£11.95) for Hector, Sag Ghoust (£11.95) for Dr. Stan, and Kofta Curry (£13.95) for Ricky.

Ricky was impressed that Kofta was on the menu, but was convinced they wouldn’t have it. His prediction became true, in part.

Dr. Stan mooted Rice, I suggest we share Vegetable Pilau (£3.95), one Chapati (£1.55) as back up. For Ricky, Tandoori Naan (£2.95).

Mr. Khan himself took the Order after Ricky began to believe we would have to go up to the counter. I did advise that if drinks were required, it is a matter of help yourself from the fridge. Dr. Stan took a Rubicon, no other drinks were consumed, though a jug of tap water was available, if one insisted. At Kebab Mahal they do not go out of their way to put liquid on the table. The price of the can was unknown at the point of ordering and remained so.

A rather loud regular was keen on engaging all around. That he had been coming here since the early 1990s was relayed to all, but mainly directed towards Mein Host whom he addressed as Mr. Khan throughout. The actors were entertained. The weans in the far corner daren’t utter a word. A strange atmosphere, but Ricky loved my choice of venue.

The Vegetable Pilau, as expected, was enough to share. Featuring Peas, Carrots, Green Beans and Sweetcorn, the required Diversity was present.

The Chapatti was made from Wholemeal Flour, consequently I had but a scrap. Dr. Stan soon discovered we didn’t really need Bread such was the volume of the Curry.

The Tandoori Naan was an instant winner, served whole, huge, teardrop shaped, risen, puffy, every box ticked. Note to self: order the Naan!

Aloo Ghoust

Technically, the wrong Masala, a traditional Aloo Gosht should be served in a Shorva, however the House Blended Masala is what I was expecting. That is how it is. I arranged ten large pieces of Lamb over the Rice, then half as many bits of Potato.

As ever, I retained some for the end game, to revitalise whatever Rice could be left over. This was a lot of Curry for the £.

A lack of Seasoning has been the recurring criticism on my previous nine visits to Kebab Mahal, today, all was well. Chef may well have changed in the intervening years, this Curry was much more a la Hector. The Spice Level was as it should be, sufficient, not demanding. The basics gotten right, all was set for an enjoyable meal.

Beautifully Tender Meat, only but a trace of sinew encountered, this was quality. Some pieces of Lamb suggested absorption of the Spice, a parameter verified when I tackled the Potato. Clearly, this had just been added and so the magic absorption that an Aloo Gosht on display would have acquired, was not present. Still, the light and fluffy Potato was adding further Diversity, and why I chose this over the Lamb Mushroom Curry (£11.95).

From somewhere, a slight Sweetness was manifesting itself, I’ll always nominate the Carrots when this is so. Otherwise, this was a worthy Curry, streets ahead of what is served in the Mainstream venues which prevail.

Kofta Curry

Why this was £2.00 dearer, than the other Dishes on the menu, is a mystery compounded when Ricky saw a lesser price quoted in the window.

The skewer holes, and linear nature of the solids, confirmed that this was not a Kofta Curry per se. Seekh Kebab had been used, not Meatballs. It happens. The Masala was identical to that seen in the Aloo Gosht. Again, a Punjabi Shorva would have been more authentic.

It’s alright, not what I was expecting – was an early comment by Rick.

So, how had this been cooked? Seekh Kebab would normally be grilled, we saw little evidence for that. Meatballs could be baked then added to a Masala, or partly cooked therein. One of these, presumably. That Ricky was enjoying his Curry was made clear.

The Rickmeister managed an impressive portion of his Naan, he had a lot of Curry to get through. He liked the food, he liked the venue, a proper place.

Sag Ghoust

This was Dr. Stan’s second Palak Gosht in eighteen hours. The Hector did well not become involved last night. A victory in Europe by The Famous had to be celebrated otherwise.

The volume of Curry impressed, the Thick, Dry, Herb-rich Masala Mash, exactly what the doctor ordered. Sorry. However, not the way the Hector desires his Spinach Curry, not enough actual Masala present here. In Deutschland, Dr. Stan always embraces Gemüse, the Spinach Puree oft served as an accompaniment. Too green.

The plate was cleared, although there was a tacit acceptance that we had both abandoned the Chapatti. Dr. Stan:

A basic curry with medium spice. A good blend of spices. Gemüse spinach, which I like because its quite thick. Tender meat, plenty of it. Just about finished it.

On clearing the table, Mr. Khan commented on the half Chapatti remaining. That we had eaten everything else did not seem to matter. As has been written here previously:

Mr. Khan likes clean plates.

The Bill

Paying separately, I lost track. Together we parted with £46.35.

The Aftermath

It was very much a case of – see you again – as we departed. The Rickmeister now has a Curry venue in the east for when he has to attend a certain football ground in Leith. And that, unsurprisingly, was where we headed next. However, by kick-off, Dr. Stan and Hector were in Musselburgh.

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Glasgow – The Village – Monday Lunch

Monday lunchtime finds Hector and Marg at The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA). En route, Marg declared that she was happy to have the Lahore Lunch (£8.95) which features Vegetable Pakora, Keema and Chapattis, great value indeed. Hector had a Desi Curry in mind.

Arriving at 13.15, it cost £5.00 to park outside for an hour. The Village used to have a car park, maybe it still does, I should ask about this. Hanane was front of house, this was the first time I had seen her since our formal introduction and Hanane’s photo subsequently appearing in Curry-Heute.

Are you famous yet? – I had to ask. Hanane did like the photo, mask and all.

Hanane guessed that there was no need to bring the main menu, the Hector announced today’s Curry: Lamb Achari (£14.95) to be served on-the-boneDesi-style. Mushroom Rice (£3.95) would accompany.

Medium plus – was the agreed Spice Level. Usually, at The Village, I’ll settle for a jug of tap water, Marg managed to add a large bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.85) to the Order.

Mr. Baig, Mein Host, was busy in his office throughout our visit. Kasif, his son, was reviewing photos with the marketing chaps. There has been quite a bit of professional looking material appearing on a certain social medium of late. Otherwise, the two tables occupied by diners were soon free. It’s the middle of the Glasgow Fair Fortnight, a quiet time still, in the city.

Lahore Lunch

The Vegetable Pakora arrived, three large pieces, a Chilli Dip and a Soupçon of Salad

Well-fired, a no doubt double fried, Marg insisted I have one. I took a half, an opperchancity to secure a well illuminated photo. Discrete pieces of Potato and Onion were not visible, the Gram Flour was to the fore. Suitably Spiced, tasty, however, Hector’s plate was about to be topped up with something else.

Hanane presented two Poppadoms and some Spiced Onion – on the house.

Served at her discretion, this reinvigorated a conversation Marg and Hector have been having since our recent two visits to Annaya’s (Helensburgh). This is how Poppadoms should be served. As it happened, today I didn’t touch them, but did take most of the Spiced Onion which I found to have a Sweet taste and slightly antiseptic Flavour. The Red Chilli Sauce, some brands work, some do not.

An amuse bouche for Hector, a comforting Starter for Marg:

I was hungry and the three pieces of Vegetable Pakora were tasty with some dough binding the crispy veg. The small side salad had Peppers, Onion, and Lettuce. I enjoyed a Poppadom with my Salad using the Pakora Sauce.

The waiter brought the remaining food on a large tray. Two Chapattis, Marg only required one. Wholemeal, not suitable for the Hector, Marg was content.

Mince Curry

Not the full portion as ordering a la carte, but approximating to the actual quantity which Marg prefers to eat. There was a moment of concern when Marg thought she might have been served Chicken Mince, but the darkness surely confirmed Lamb.

Suitably Dry, the absolutely Minimal Masala shrouded the Keema, there was no sign of peripheral Oil. This was quality. Marg:

The Mince Curry was full of Coriander and small pieces of Chilli. A good kick and a rich flavour through the minced meat. The Chapatti was fresh and warm and although I was given two, I could only eat the one.

Across the table, there was a completely different dining experience. The Mushroom Rice was served directly on the plate, not The Village customary bowl to be upturned.

Fresh Mushrooms, Spiced Rice, this was of Biryani quality, tasty Rice, excellent, and a few grains more than I would manage, so plentiful.

Lamb Achari

The quantity was significantly more than Marg had been served. The Meat count reached double figures as I arranged the Lamb and some of the Thick Masala on top of the Rice. Spotting the Sucky Bone was another plus.

Small pieces of Pickle were strewn through the Masala. The distinctive Village Curry Taste was therefore further enhanced by the added Pickle.  The Spice Level had been well pitched, enough, no discomfort. The Seasoning was spot on, a la Hector.

The food could have been hotter, as was realised when I encountered a blast of heat from the centre of the mass. This only highlighted the comparative coolness of the periphery.

Super-Tender Meat, melt in the mouth, but as I remarked to Marg, I always end up chewing, then chewing more and more, towards the end game. This must be down to me, not the Meat on the plate becoming tougher.

Biting into a piece of Pickle was like a volcanic eruption of Flavour, why I choose this Curry, it is full on. The Pickle, the base Village Curry, Sucky Bone, the Mushrooms and the Spiced Rice, a complex array of Flavours, a creation/combination I can highly recommend.

The Bill

£27.85

The Aftermath

Marg and Hanane had quite a little chat. Now we know a bit more about the lady behind the mask…

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Glasgow – Yadgar – The Interview

An interview?

A few weeks back, Robbie of – The Glasgow Bell – an online newspaper, contacted Hector with an invite to take part in an interview on matters Curry related, and supposedly Curry-Heute in particular. Throughout the fifteen years of Curry-Heute, Hector has enjoyed the opperchancity of talking Curry with Restaurateurs in Glasgow and beyond, but to talk about – me – what could be more interesting?

That we should do so over a Curry was expedient.

Yadgar (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) was the chosen venue, a 15.00 rendezvous, Hector’s preferred time of day to eat Curry. Naveed, in his near constant spot behind the counter, was greeted and advised that I was waiting for a fellow diner who is vegetarian and would choose as and when. 

Hector’s portion of Goshat Karahi (£10.00) had been ordered yesterday by contacting Shkoor, Mein Host, directly. This would avoid a forty five minute wait for the outstanding creation to be prepared to the standard which sets Yadgar, and a couple of other Southside Curry Cafes, way above the Mainstream. There is no – Big Curry Pot – at Yadgar. And yes, I had let it slip, as if: Shkoor had been informed as to why I was coming today.

The window tables were occupied as I entered, other people evidently appreciate this time of day as an optimum time to eat. Unusually, I took the furthest table between the kitchen entrance and the facilities. Shkoor arrived moments later, Robbie soon thereafter.

Introductions completed, and Shkoor was on top form today, – The Interview – would be recorded, Robbie’s shorthand impressed. Knowing how long it takes to post a Curry review, poor chap, he’s going to have to listen to this again.

Food, Robbie ordered a Daal and an Aloo Gobi. Today, as one of the Daily Specials, Aloo Gajar Mutter (Potato, Carrots and Peas) was also on offer. Unusually, Aakash our waiter, had provided a menu. I was able to verify that the vegetarian Curry dishes are £6.00. I must have had them all, many are stunning, capturing the unique – Yadgar Taste. Shkoor was passing when I had him confirm yet again that they don’t cheat. There are no Meat products employed, so how do they do it? My theory, it’s the Carrots, they say otherwise.

Not to be denied, I added a portion of Aloo Gobi to my Order, Chapattis (£0.90) would accompany, not that I would be eating much Bread. Wholemeal Flour, I have gone off it. The customary cans of Mango Rubicon (£1.80) completed the Order.

Do I pay for my Curry? – was an early question posed by Robbie. Of course, but on occasion I have been invited to review venues by Restaurateurs directly, or via – Hotels PR – who periodically have Marg and Hector visit venues, to date, mostly in the east of Scotland.

However, at Yadgar, Hector admits to being spoiled, which is why there is a self-imposed limit on the frequency of visits here. The remarkable story of The Covid Clydebank Curry Lift was related. Generosity, appreciation, taken to the extreme.  As is often the case, Complimentary Starters/ Accompaniments, magically appeared.

Today, Poppadoms aplenty, Salad, Dips/Chutney, and Mixed Pakora spontaneously appeared. This is why Hector and Co. usually pay an agreed sum when eating here en masse. I’ll also invite readers to go back a few posts to share the recent angst of paying for Poppadoms etc. twice (!) in the same week in Helensburgh.

So engrossed were we, the food was taking second place, and being allowed to cool.

Having thoughtlessly taken a cross section of the Pakora, including the Chicken, Robbie was left only with a couple of pieces of the Vegetable. The Fish Pakora, always a highlight, all came my way when the limits had been established.

Read any previous review of Yadgar in Curry-Heute and verify the celebration of these Starters, especially when accompanied by Chapli Kebab.

Robbie was taken aback somewhat when I confirmed that this Review would be #156 for Yadgar. There are over one thousand reviews for Curry in Glasgow alone, all but a handful of venues visited. Every Curry consumed is reviewed, the tallies are down the right hand column, and if I have only been been somewhere local once, make you own conclusion.

That Hector could be – the most prolific Curry writer in the English language – was proferred by Robbie. Why have Guinness not been in touch?

The story of Hector’s first Curry was related, all has been posted here previously: Hector’s Lust for Curry which highlights Hector’s Curry Rule!

In passing, Shkoor related how pupils from my former teaching establishment have presented at Yadgar in search of Hector’s Curry.

It was time to discuss what makes a Curry. Chicken, no! Anything else. Why the majority of diners accept a non-absorbent Meat with sauce poured over it as Curry, baffles this commentator. The parameters of what defines – Desi Curry – have empirically evolved in these pages: Whole Spice visible, Lamb on-the-bone, are fundamental. Again, too many Mainstream venues simply add – Desi – to their menu, Hector will always challenge when this is experienced, usually in the more pukka establishments. That Marg likes ambience and Hector doesn’t give a, was emphatically relayed.

Consequently, or otherwise, there is no scoring system in Curry-Heute, it’s all about the Curry and the sought after – Wow! – moment. We have eaten at some rough and ready venues, not just in India, but more-so in Hellas/Greece. Then there was the evening we dined like Royalty on the Southside at Shaheed’s family home. Whatever happened to the Punjabi taxi driver who insisted that his wife was the best cook in Glasgow?

Food? Remember this is a Curry Blog. The main courses had been put back. Shkoor advised that today I should forego the Aloo Gobi.

Shafiq brought the Mains.

Goshat Karahi

A portion, eight to ten pieces of Meat, is typically served in a bowl, behold the full Karahi! This was easily the half kilo, not on the Yadgar menu as such, and otherwise disproportionately charged at every venue across the land. OK, it was in everyone’s interest that they make a feature of what has been described in these pages as – The Best Curry in Glasgow, by far – for some fifteen years. Mutual respect pays dividends.

I drew a line across the contents of the karahi so that Robbie would appreciate the volume which had been expected.

Topped with Coriander and Ginger Strips, Tomato skins were visible in the Minimal Masala. Karahi, not Curry per se, prepared Meat is cooked in a Tomato-based Masala. Simple, many a Chef has relayed the method, online videos too, but Hector’s attempts always fall short. It’s not just knowing the ingredients, but the how much and when. At Yadgar, Chefs rarely come and go, loyalty, what is served here is distinctive.

Spicy, but in no way demanding. The Seasoning was a la Hector, we discussed this back in 2010. Today, Lamb Chops were in the majority, not Tandoori Chops, these had been slow cooked in the Spice blend. Soft, succulent Meat which gives back more than just it’s Meatiness, another criterion in – Desi.

The Minimal Masala, packed with Flavour, the paradox that less is more. Contrast this to the plate of Meat swimming in Sauce dished out on every high street across the planet.

A pity that today I was somewhat distracted. Mentally, I drew another line, leave enough to make a Doggy Bag worthwhile.

Across the table, Robbie enjoyed the food on his first visit to Yadgar, but again only ate half of what was presented. Maybe – he was going home for his Tea?

Daal

Daal has of course featured previously in these pages, appearing as a – try this – when there’s a group. Robbie remarked on the size of the Lentils, yes they come in varying sizes and colours, advises the omnivore.

With the Oil separating and collecting on the periphery of the plate, a good stir was probably required to bring out the full Flavours. Unless it’s a veritable slick, never discard the Oil.

My turn to conduct the interview.

Robbie:

Buttery, melt in the mouth. Spice builds to a crunchy crescendo.

Aloo Gobi

The humble Potato, such a key ingredient, it can be added to any Curry. Potato absorbs in the way that Chicken never will. Cauliflower always brings its own distinctive Flavour to the party. As long as it al dente, another winner.

Add to this, the shrouding by the Yadgar Masala, a treat that the Hector was not being permitted to enjoy today.

Robbie:

Suitably dry, very gentle. Cauliflower, enough bite, resistance. Almost a sweet richness. More level spice (than the Daal), then rises, not as dramatic. Buttery, the Potato resists then breaks apart. Perfectly cooked.

Shkoor was on hand to observe how much would become Takeaway. That Hector’s appetite has waned, since Covid, is well recorded, that his total mass retains, a puzzle.

The Bill

£30.00

TANSTAAFL!

The Aftermath

Aakash was keen to get in on the act.

Hector was set some homework, to write:

The Ten Commandments for Curry.

The fundamentals had already been discussed and appear in these pages as – The Curry-Heute Campaign. Two hours had passed. I shall update readers as to when today’s interview is posted. As we walked along Calder Street, I did recall that Ron Mackenna of The Herald has referred to Hector as – Startlingly Committed.

No further punchline required.

One hour later, the secreted Cumin Seed revealed itself. The blast of Liquorice, Desi Curry.

Update: August 27

It is written

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Glasgow – New Cafe Reeshah – Authentic Desi Karahi

Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley have spent the weekend in Glasgow, hosted as ever by Marg and Hector. No visit would complete without Curry. A contemporary venue is always expected, today New Cafe Reeshah (455 Shields Road, Pollokshields, Glasgow G41 1NP). Clive was here some twelve years ago in the early days of – Cafe Reeshah – when Keema Mutter and Aloo Gosht reigned supreme.

In the past year, the Hector has been championing Lamb Karahi Lahori (£11.00/£13.00), Clive was up for this, the ladies would make a last minute decision. Marg drove us to the Southside, arriving at New Cafe Reeshah just on 13.00.

As ever, the two tables were unoccupied, however chairs along the wall have been replaced by fixed seating. The wall covering has also seen an upgrade. One can conclude that people sitting-in is being further encouraged in what is essentially a Takeaway venue. Next, a toilet, then we’ll be talking.

The hoped for Lamb Karahi Lahori was on display and in sufficient quantity for the four of us. Maggie accepted she should have this, such was the level of recommendation. Marg considered her favoured Keema, here as Aloo Qeema (£7.00/£9.00), but on seeing it was Chicken Mince, decided otherwise. This would be her first full on experience of the Lamb Karahi Lahori at New Cafe Reeshah.

Four portions of Karahi Gosht.

With no sign of Arshad or Amjad, it was clear that the chap serving was another relative. Bread was added to the Order: for Marg, her customary Tandoori Roti (£1.00), for Hector – Tandoori Naan (£1.50), Clive was not missing out on the opperchancity to have a Lamb Mince Paratha (£5.00). Maggie enquired after Rice. Boiled (£2.00) and Chicken Biryani (£6.00) were on display. Mushroom Rice, her request, not possible. Boiled it would be – and not too much – was the plea.

The usual table was claimed, I arranged glasses of water, it’s help yourself at the counter. The Bread would be cooked to order, the reheat of the Karahi would not take long either.

Arshad appeared from the kitchen to greet us. That we were four was clearly appreciated. It was he who brought out the food, one portion of Karahi and the Keema Paratha first. Clive was invited to tuck in.

A Modest Salad and a bowl of Raita followed next.

The Wholemeal Paratha was large and well stuffed with Mince. I managed to peel back a section to confirm Keema grains, not the mass of – pink – which some places dish out. Clive would manage all but a sliver, I’ve no idea how he can put that amount of Bread away. Note to self, do not order this, no Wholemeal Flour please.

Hector’s Naan, made from the lovely White Flour, sat atop two Roti, the latter again were Wholemeal. One Bread more than we had ordered, wastage was unavoidable.

The Naan, although mostly pale, was suitably light and fluffy. One day I’ll communicate the need for the – Half-Naan.

Then there was the Boiled Rice, way more than Maggie required, Clive took some, but again, wastage. We were here for the Curry.

*

*

*

Lamb Karahi Lahori

Approaching a Shorva, and so ideal for dipping, the Masala was packing the intensity of Flavour I have come to expect at New Cafe Reeshah. The Spice built slowly on the palate. With both Marg and Maggie present, it was not a matter of if, but when, the Spice Level would be discussed. The ladies were onside, and with enough of a kick to impress the Hector, satisfaction all round.

The plates were hot as were the contents, this meant the food was not going to cool rapidly as it has done in winter visits. The open door today was not an issue.

Eleven pieces of Meat were on the Hector’s plate, some on-the-bone. I couldn’t help but notice that Marg had acquired a disproportionate number of Sucky Bones. I had one piece of cartilage. Some you win.

Super-soft to chewy, quite an array of Textures, and with the Lamb having sat in the Masala, a good level of absorption. Peppery, with a hint of Citrus – was noted. Citrus takes the Hector towards the much sought after Desi Korma, Peppery towards Namkeen, Marg would surely enjoy this.

For once, four people, all having the same Curry, this simplifies the reporting.

Marg:

A large plate of meat, plenty of tender pieces of lamb with the expected sucky bones. A thin sauce, full of flavour with a decent kick. Enjoyed the large Roti and left a quarter of it. My first taste of the Lamb Karahi here.

Maggie:

Hot in heat, but medium hot in spice. Not too many bones, lots of big chunks of meat. I didn’t get any gristle, no fat. Not too much ghee, just enough to cook it and make it tasty. You can have whatever size of Rice you want. All round tasty Karahi.

Clive:

The Paratha was good, and rare. I wouldn’t call it Curry (indeed, it’s Karahi). Well balanced, temperature hot, not spicy hot. A good mix of bone bits and normal bits. No gristle, one piece of cartilage.

We each amassed our pile of Bones, all the Meat was devoured, a pity we would leave so much Bread.

The Bill

£55.00 Four people, suitably fed.

The Aftermath

Arshad was pleased that we had enjoyed our meal. He must know that the Karahi served here is something special. Are Mainstream venues just afraid to serve authentic Desi Fayre?

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Hector Cooks : Desi Lamb Curry

Today, Howard and Hector finally enjoyed a day of indulgence featuring the odd Bier or two, and many a cult movie: Hell Drivers, This Island Earth, The Day The Earth Caught Fire, The Satan Bug, Zero Hour, The Black Shield of Falworth, Deep End. A home-cooked Curry would feature, Marg even promised to return in time to partake. 

One of the main criticisms, in these pages, of Curry as served in restaurants is when the Meat and the Masala are clearly strangers until the point of serving. Yet I was advised many years ago by a Chef that cooking the Lamb in the Masala can lead to the latter being burned. Pre-cooking the Lamb in a pressure cooker can therefore reduce the actual time of cooking the Meat in the Masala. Subsequently, leaving the combination overnight solves everything.

To seal the Meat or not, the debate continues. This is how the Hector got around this.

Whole Spices, typical of what is usually ground to create a Garam Masala, were dry roasted on the base of the pressure cooker: Cinnamon Bark, Black Cardamom, Dried Red Chillies, Coriander Seeds, Methi Seeds, Mustard Seeds and Black Peppercorns. Care was taken not to overdo the roasting, too much and all turns to Carbon very quickly, also the fumes become noxious.

Today’s Meat was Scottish Spring Lamb, on-the-bone, purchased at House of Sher, Kingston, Glasgow’s foremost Asian supermarket. Already cut into manageable pieces, the 1.3kg of Meat would certainly be enough for three even allowing for the bone content. This is the only precise quantity I intend posting today, the photos should tell all. The bulk of the preparation was conducted last night.

The Meat was stirred into the Roasted Whole Spices, the browning process inevitably now underway. Enough Oil to create the sense of sealing the Meat was then added and the juices correspondingly started to be released.

With the Meat browned and sealed, enough Water to cover the solids was added and brought to the boil. Thirty minutes of cooking under pressure. The result, the Lamb cooked through but still firm enough to take some more.

Not wanting boiled Spices in my Curry, the larger Spices were separated, the liquid discarded.

As Curry was the intended outcome, not Karahi, Onions would feature. Having watched many a Curry being cooked on social media, today I would cook the Onions, Garlic Paste and chopped Ginger without Spice, then blend.

Some dry Brown Onions were fried in minimal Oil and half a large bag of frozen Onions then added. Frozen Onions, I find, will never turn brown.

A handful of Cashew Nuts and a dollop of Indian Yoghurt were placed in the blender, once the Onion combo had been cooked, in it went.

The result, a smooth Paste, and more than I intended using today. Having deliberately added no Spice, this Paste can be used in non-Curry creations as and when.

The Masala was therefore going to be Tomato-based.

To satisfy my own Curry-Heute criteria, Whole Spices would have to be visible. Cinnamon Bark, Cloves and Black Cardamom were fried in way less Oil than I would customarily use in the preparation of a Curry.

Three fresh, chopped Tomatoes were cooked for ten minutes, Coriander Seeds (forgotten at the start) were stirred in.

To this, a tin of chopped Tomatoes, Green Chillies, Tomato Puree and Garlic Paste were added in turn, then Turmeric, Kashmiri Chilli and Salt.

With the Oil separating, I knew this was – the brew that is true.

Time to add the cooked Meat. Having stirred this through, it could have passed for Curry already. Ten minutes cooking with the lid on the karahi and the desired – Dry-Thick Curry was manifesting itself.

Around a third of the Onion-Nut-Yoghurt Paste was added and stirred in.

No Hector Curry would be complete without Methi.

With the Dry Methi mixed through, I knew the Curry would need more liquid for today’s additions to work. The Water, although looking excessive to start, soon reduced. The creation was left overnight to infuse.

This morning, the final preparations.

Potatoes were par-boiled, fresh Coriander Leaves and Stems finely chopped, Garam Masala, and finally Tamarind were introduced, no further cooking required at this point.

When Marg returned and declared she couldn’t wait any longer to eat, so the Curry was reheated as the Basmati also cooked.

Visually, this Desi Lamb Curry is what I had imagined: a Thick, Tomato-based Masala with minimal Onion, the hint of Creaminess partly from the Cashew Nuts. The Potatoes, having sat all day in the Masala would have taken in the Flavours.

Some of the Meat had already detached itself leaving Sucky Bones. The Tenderness was a given, the pre-cooking guaranteeing this. Having been cooked firstly in the Garam Masala, then the main Masala, the desired – something extra – was achieved. This Lamb was very much in the – giving – category. Short of ordering Tikka Lamb, Mainstream Restaurants do not manage this, and how is pouring a Masala over Tikka Lamb a Curry?

Technically, this Curry was as I would seek it. However in terms of Flavour, it was very much a la Hector. Short of adding Lime Pickle to create an Achari, I do not know how to overcome this. All Hector’s Curry creations taste like Hector’s Curry.

Marg was first to comment:

My first fork happened to have a black cardamom. That woke up my senses. The texture of the sauce and lamb looked perfect. I thoroughly enjoyed the very tender meat with flavoured potato.

The spice level was fairly high, but I soon got used to it. The meat on the bone was excellent and I enjoyed the plain rice. A good taste of coriander and plenty of bursts from the black peppercorns. An enjoyable meal in good company.

FYI – Upside Down (Night) by Gazpacho – was the musical accompaniment.

Howard had the final say: 

A Rare Treat

There’s been a plan in place to have a day and overnight watching favourite films and drinking good Bier with Hector Curry-Heute. Of course it was hoped that curry would be involved somewhere in the mix. In this case it was a special treat of a home-made curry.

The curry naturally was lamb which came in a rich, deep sauce. Dark and intense, both the sauce and meat had oodles of flavour, with the lamb being melt in the mouth. Given that some, too many restaurants et al only get one element of this right, it was a bonus to get both.

Served with boiled rice, it topped an excellent occasion that, we hope will be repeated.

With some movies still to watch, this may well happen. If only Howard would show me his diary for the next five years…

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Helensburgh – Annaya’s – 48 Hours Later

Hector and Marg are back at Annaya’s (80-82 West Princes St., Helensburgh, G84 8XD) this Thursday evening, and yes we were here on Tuesday. Who planned this?

Marg had added – Craig & Lesley – to the diary, the format of the evening was unknown to Hector until Lesley asked on our arrival in Helensburgh – where are we going for Curry?

Craig and Lesley used to appear regularly in these pages, Hector’s cooking lessons. Eating out? The Curry-Heute Rule was invoked, no backing out now. We arrived at 18.30, Craig having phoned to advise Annaya’s that we were on our way.

On Tuesday, Mark celebrated Royal Nihari (£15.95) with gusto, this had to be Hector’s choice tonight. Nihari, Lamb Shank, is traditionally accompanied by Bread, Chapattis (£2.50) at Annaya’s are made from Wholemeal Flour which gives no pleasure at all to the Hector. There was a Naan Snafu here on Tuesday, this would have to be addressed.

Rocky, Mein Host, came over to greet, tonight he got the name right. Who prompted him? Or, had he read Curry-Heute?

Tuesday’s less than satisfactory Naan was discussed. Risen, puffy, blistered, three of the parameters in Curry-Heute which define a quality Tandoori Naan, not one ticked. Rocky deduced that if their Tandoor is constantly used it can lose its intense heat. For Hector this evening: Coriander Naan (£4.95) – served whole, no Garlic – was the challenge.

Whole Bread – the fourth parameter.

Meanwhile, there were three others at the table to consider. The menu was brought by the waitress, this would be consulted for the Sundries only. Marg was advising Craig when Rocky appeared with his Board to give us his spiel. As impressive as it was two days ago, the rerun was less compelling. However, tonight there was a new Starter: Malai Boti (£8.50): Chicken, featuring Cream Cheese, Yoghurt, Black Peppercorn and Ginger. This was ordered – to share.

Lesley would choose Punjabi Chilli Chicken (£14.95). Having taken advice from Marg, Craig would have Railway Boti (£14.95) which the lady described as – Wonderful – two days previously. Tonight, Marg opted for Desi Lamb (£14.95), served on-the-bone. So many genuine options. The good people of Helensburgh are fortunate in having this Award Winning restaurant in the heart of their town. As for the bad people, they can go elsewhere. The – Hot Naan Doner – as served along the street at Flamingo, a Takeaway, is truly – bad.

Craig and Lesley added one Roti to Marg’s, plus a Peshawari Naan (£4.95). On mentioning Rice they succumbed to Rocky’s suggestion of Special Dham Pilau (£4.95).

Poppadoms? – mooted Rocky. There was an immediate and positive response from my fellow diners. For once the Hector stayed Schtum, suckered again. That was a needless £9.50 added to The Bill.

OK, I would take a piece, or two, of Poppadom, did enjoy the Onion Chutney and Mango Chutney. The reality, I could have done without this distraction, I prefer not to play this game. Craig took care of the Pickle, Achari he had never heard of, he would like it.

Drinks had already been sorted, a large bottle of Sparkling Water (£5.95) and two pints of Lager (£4.95). Note: a pint here is £2.00 less than at Akbar’s (Glasgow)!

Malai Boti

An Interesting Starter: four pieces of Chicken, just as well, one each. With cremated nodes, suggesting the Tandoor had been employed, still remarkably White Chicken. Soft, succulent, the Cheese was noted by all but was not intrusive. A new experience.

Tandoori Lamb Chops (£8.50), surely better? Tonight, Marg almost had Lamb Chops as a main course, the Masala of her choice, understood. Pouring sauce over Meat does not a Curry make.

With my back to the room, I was unaware of how busy the place was becoming. An Indian family, who studied me with interest as I departed, had squeezed themselves on to one of the bench tables.  Eleven years of Annaya’s, they are doing well. The new Balloch outlet has yet to be visited. Tomorrow?

There seems to be a special chap who brings the food, a Chef? In time, all was assembled, there appeared to be a point to be made in bringing Hector’s Coriander Naan last.

Two Tandoori Roti/Chapatti, served halved, having eaten these for years, I have decided no more. This is not the Chapatti Flour I seek, bring me Bradford-style Chapattis made from White Chapatti Flour, the ones which used to prevail in Glasgow.

There was no comment forthcoming about the Peshawari Naan. Served in bits, stuffed Naan cannot rise in the same way a Plain Naan ought to.

The Special Dham Pilau was experienced by Hector back in January, featuring Chickpeas, Carrot and Sweetcorn. Although Rocky had distinctly mentioned Chickpeas at the point of ordering, to the best of my visual acuity, only Peas and Sweetcorn appeared. I was left to wonder who actually wanted Rice, much of the bowl remained untouched.

*

Royal Nihari

Topped with Ginger Strips, a threat of Coriander, sliced Bullet Chillies and a slice of Lemon, plenty garnish. Crunchy bits, Spicy bits, Tasty bits, for later.

A Shorva, but far from watery – was my observation on Tuesday when this Curry was seen for the first time. Today I was able to study it further: somehow more brown and slightly Thicker than that served at Glasgow’s New Cafe Reeshah or Sheerin Palace, I could see why Mark described it as – gravy.

Kick-off was slightly delayed due to the absence of a Coriander Naan. There was not quite a fanfare when it was produced, though clearly this was a key moment in Curry-Heute v Annaya’s.

Served Whole? Nope. The way the Naan is cut at Annaya’s is such that it looks like a whole Bread until examined closely. The Bread must be massive before cutting, space at the table therefore at a premium. Buy some Naan hangers?

Risen puffy, blisters? Around the edges of the Naan, certainly. Towards the centre, no. Here was the same thin, doughy mass as served on Tuesday. The Buttery sheen had me worried for a moment, there was relief when this proved not to be Garlic.

How’s your Naan? – Rocky would ask mid meal.

She passed decades ago – was the tempting answer, however:

Much better – slipped out.

This Naan was much better, but still had a long way to go before being highly praised in these pages. The Curry is what it’s all about. Dipping Bread in a Shorva used to be such an alien action, it appears to be happening more often. Scooping the Shorva with the edges of the Naan became the route to happiness this evening.

Well Seasoned, a decent Spice Level and I’ll take a punt at Cinnamon and Anise, this was a powerfully Flavoured Shorva.

The Lamb, having been removed from the Shank, but still cooked together, was in four large pieces. Unusually, I had to employ a knife to cut the Meat into manageable pieces. At the start of the Dipping, I noted how hot the Shorva was. As I tackled the Meat, I was somewhat taken aback by how much heat it had retained, and continued to do so. We had once again been given hot plates from which to eat, tonight, the Hector was eating directly from the karahi. What happened to the asymmetric bowls the Curry used to come in?

Ultra-Tender Lamb in the initial stages, does Meat become tougher as the Hector eats or is it simply a matter of slowing down to a snail’s pace?

The scooping of the Shorva in time revealed a Thicker Mass towards the base of the karahi, Meat fibre, the motherlode of  Flavour. The nature of this Curry was such that it was a case of finish the Lamb, then concentrate on the remaining Shorva, now more of a Masala. Usually the Bread is abandoned to facilitate finishing the Curry, tonight it was merely a matter of surplus Bread. I would love to have seen just how large this Naan would have been served – Whole.

Desi Lamb

The same Toppings as the Nihari, I wonder how similar was the Shorva/Masala. Marg would go on to describe the Masala as – Thick, so maybe a significant departure from what I had been served? No doubt, the Lamb was from a different cut of the beast. Marg’s summary of the evening:

The meal began with a new starter of Tikka Chicken with creamed cheese and spices. We all took a piece and I found it was very juicy and full of flavour. It was a good start to the meal, after Poppadoms and mango chutney.

My main dish was full off lamb on the bone in a thick masala. A general spicy taste with very tend lamb. Used the Roti to pick up the sauce. A very pleasant dish.

Railway Boti

As seen on Tuesday, no Herb Toppings, Cashew Nuts featuring instead. This Masala was Classic Curry and with this I would have favoured Rice. On advising Craig, Marg was mindful that he does not normally tolerate Cream in any form, yet he accepted a hint of it here. Sqd Ldr Craig:

It was nutty, very peppery, flavoursome.

On Tuesday, Marg gave a much fuller appraisal. I suspect this Curry could be my choice next time at Annaya’s.

Punjabi Chilli Chicken

This Annaya’s Curry makes its inaugural appearance in Curry-Heute. Surprisingly, it was topped with sliced Bullet Chillies only. Maybe the clue was in the moniker?

The Masala did appear to be similar to the Railway Boti, again, I would have favoured Rice with this.

Why was so much Rice left at the end?

Lesley offered her description of the evening:

Initial Poppadoms, fairly standard. Never had cheese like that in chicken. It didn’t taste cheesy. Enjoyed the Rice (yay!), wasn’t greasy.

Re the main course: Could have been slightly hotter (in Spice). The sauce was light, flavoursome. Chicken thighs, light, a good portion.

Inevitably, the Bread formed much of the leftovers.

The Bill

£113.95

The Aftermath

I promised Rocky that I would not be back again – this week.

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Helensburgh – Annaya’s – Not Just A Meal, An Event

Our last Curry with Mark and Jude was in Dunedin, New Zealand, on Day 33 of RTW-80. Today’s rendezvous took Marg and Hector down to Helensburgh and Annaya’s (80-82 West Princes St., Helensburgh, G84 8XD). Annaya’s, the best show in town, and as the evening would reveal, it’s not just in the eating.

Following an aperitif, we arrived for our 19.00 booking. A Tuesday evening, Annaya’s was quiet, however, I am more used to being here on a Saturday when the place is wedged.

The complex menu, first seen in January, apart from Sundries, was basically ignored. The Specials Board is where – the good stuff – is displayed. Even then, the Desi Lamb, courtesy of Alan of this parish, and influenced by Hector over the years, has become: Desi Lamb Methi – on-the-bone, extra Seasoning (£14.95).

There was no sign of Rocky, Mein Host, initially. When the waitress mooted Poppadoms, I gave my usual response – if Rocky wants us to have them, they will arrive.

They did, and I was not amused to find £8.50 on The Bill to cover these and the Chutney/Dips. My tactic didn’t work, I would have been outvoted anyway.

A glass of red wine and the first of two large bottles of Sparkling Water were ordered. Drinks – £18.40. Hector the Miserable? OK, it was a special night and we were out – to dine.

Back to the food. Rocky appeared, recognised me, called me by the wrong name and proceeded to talk us through the Specials on his own portable board. There were only one or two tweaks from that last seen in January.

Rocky informed me that my elaborate Methi Gosht would feature Mustard Leaves as well as Methi. Rocky’s spiel was so detailed I interrupted to suggest we should have made an audio recording. It was not just revealing the ingredients for each Dish but also the timing of when they are added. Royal Nihari (£15.95) was one Curry he particularly highlighted this evening. I had to challenge when he relayed the Lamb was removed from the Bone before cooking. Ah, the Bones are then cooked in. Clever, and not off-putting as some may find being served a Lamb Shank. Mark was sold on the Royal Nihari. As with last year in Dunedin, Marg chose a Railway Curry: Railway Boti (£14.95), whilst Jude stuck to Prawns: King Prawn Tikka Masala (£15.95).

Each couple would both share Rice and Bread: Pilau (£3.50) for the visitors with a Garlic & Coriander Nan (£4.95), Marg and Hector – Mushroom Rice (£4.95) and a Coriander Nan (£4.95?). Once again, I had managed to persuade Marg to have the more elaborate Bread. Roti here is made from Wholemeal Flour, and as established at Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin) on Saturday, the Hector is not for having this.

Starters? Oh, why not? Marg and Hector would share Fish Pakora (£7.95) which was a standout last time, Mark and Jude – Vegetable Pakora (£5.95).

It was great being here on a quieter evening, the full treatment was very much the name of the game. Annaya’s keeps winning awards. Who wins Awards?

Having left for but a moment, I returned to find the Starters on the table accompanied by a further four Dips.

Fish Pakora

Seven decent sized pieces of what I took to be Haddock. That they were freshly cooked was not in doubt, the pieces were so pliable. The Dips were hardly required such was the Flavour from the Fish, but when in Rome. The batter was seriously Spicy, surprisingly so.

Vegetable Pakora

Helensburgh’s long lost Akash set the standard for freshly cooked Pakora, none of this double frying nonsense which has become the norm. Tonight’s Pakora was lightly fried and featured the jaggy bits which are a feature of home-cooked Pakora. Six pieces, once upon a time it was nine, so not a lot when sharing, and Delhi Darbar (Dumbarton) would be passed on the way home, their Takeaway portion oft reaches more than two dozen.

Mark said – the Pakora was great. Jude also praised the Condiments. We had amassed seven.

Five to ten? – asked Rocky, referring not ot the time but the proposed gap between courses.

Fifteen – I proposed. Let the Starts digest.

Jude remarked that we were never asked how Spicy we wanted our Curry. I assured her Spice Level would not be an issue, they know what they are doing.

Super hot plates heralded the arrival of the Mains. And with Rice ordered, we would all be eating from a dinner plate this evening.

Both Rice portions proved to be enough to share, especially with Bread accompanying. Having celebrated the Mushroom Rice this past year at Chimes of India (Glasgow) then more recently at Curry Pot (Glasgow), I know how wonderful a Mushroom Rice can be. Tonight’s Mushrooms appeared to be compariively few and shrivelled,  a not so Interesting Vegetable. The Rice itself had no particular Flavour. impact.

What happened to the Bread? I have read back through previous visits to Annaya’s. The Bread, in various forms, has always impressed. Not tonight.

The waiter presented the Naan, Garlic & Coriander to Mark and Jude, Plain Naan to Marg and I. I assumed he was simply differentiating.

Risen, blistered, puffy – has been a feature of the Tandoori Naan served here previously. Tonight, peely wally, limp, soggy, and no sign of the dough having been near a Tandoor.

As I completed my photographic ritual, so Marg got to the Bread first.

Garlic!

Was the Bread issued the wrong way round? Mark confirmed they too had Garlic. Further study revealed just a threat of Coriander in theirs.

Our Naan  had no sign of Coriander and was clearly giving off overwhelming Garlic, which we had deliberately tried to avoid.

Served in four pieces, this Naan was a classic example of everything the Hector tries to avoid.

There was little point in sending it back. The mistake had been made, why let our food cool whilst we waited for another limp piece of Bread? Between us, we ate less than half.

Desi Lamb Methi – on-the-bone, extra Seasoning

What lay beneath the toppings of Coriander, Ginger Strips and sliced Bullet Chillies, was exactly what the Hector helped develop in Helensburgh after Methi was first identified in Bradford three decades ago. A Dry, Thick Masala with Herbs, not the Herb Mash which some venues resort to … and in mainland Europe, they add Cream!

The aforementioned Akash is where this Master Curry was honed to Hector’s palate, then there was the ill fated fire. To have this Methi Gosht served on-the-bone, even better, a Desi Curry.

The Seasoning was a la Hector. The Herb-rich Masala was approaching the great Bradford Curry Taste. The Bullet Chillies, taken as and when, gave the extra – kick.

Super-soft Lamb, saturated with Herb, Meat that was giving back more than just its own Flavour. Again, this is what the Hector seeks, and although no Whole Spices were encountered, enough to justify being called a Desi Curry.

The Bread dismissed, the Rice still proved to be plentiful. It was a case of maximise pleasure, finish the Curry, and so leave a few grains. Bhuna Dry, this was quite a Curry.

Railway Boti

Wonderful! – was an early exclamation by Marg, and why not? The Masala was – Classic Curry, and the Lamb was served – on the-bone.

Topped with Cashew Nuts, the Oily sheen from the Masala was so inviting. For once, not even a Soupçon was coming Hector’s way. Coriander too, hard to tell for sure if the Masala had been blended.  This version of Railway Boti bore no resemblance to the Creamy-Soupy affair served here back in 2019.  As with – Handi – a Curry with this moniker can be anything Chef wishes to dish out.  I would be tempted to have this version next time, but then I know what follows below already.

At this rate, Marg will be starting her own Blog:

A Poppadom with Mango Chutney was a familiar start to a meal in the past. When the Fish Pakora arrived it was piping hot and freshly made. I enjoyed the mixed sizes of Pakora and used a few of the dips on offer.

We asked for a short break and this gave us all some time to digest our starters and be ready for the main meal. My Railway Boti dish looked full of meat with cashew nuts sprinkled on top. I loved the taste of the sauce and the lamb was very tender with some pieces on the bone. This rich, sweetened sauce was absorbed in the mushroom rice and was a real treat to eat. The only hiccup was the nan bread, which was covered in garlic, instead of coriander which had been asked. I did use the bread to mop up the meal, where the garlic was too strong. Overall, the dish was fabulous and a real delight.

Royal Nihari

A Boneless Nihari, but as we now know, cooked with Bone in the pot. Traditionally served in a Shorva, this Masala was heading in that direction, but was far from watery. A Dark, mysterious Masala, and once again topped with Coriander, Ginger Strips and sliced Bullet Chillies.

Mark raved about his Curry throughout the eating and would later tell Rocky that he would happily have just had the Masala on its own, so impressive was the Flavour.

With the introduction and explanation, it became an event. Not just a meal.

I recommend that curry, sauce was like a Sunday roast gravy with spices, not too (Spicy) hot.

King Prawn Tikka Masala

This was the only Curry this evening from the menu, not the Specials. A Soupy Masala, with a swirl of Cream, never going to be a challenge.

Jude did ask Mark to verify that she had Prawns, she didn’t recognise the now spiralled Seafood. Her concluding remark says it all:

Thought the service was phenomenal. The attention to detail, made you feel welcome curry was good, not the best I’ve ever had. Flavours not complex, down to me picking a basic curry.

Has the lady been away from her native Bradford for too long?

Rocky was back. More Curry recipes being described. I had to ask The Big Question!

Have you ever served a Desi Korma?

Rocky then proceeded to give a detailed description of the ingredients and method to create this truly – Shahi Curry – and how it was transformed from what the Hector considers to be the tastiest of Curry, traditionally served at functions, to the creamy/coconut abomination (my term) that is universally available.

Maybe, one day, this will be one of the Specials.

Next time at Annaya’s, the Maestro will have to be recorded.  So much information lost to the ether.

The Bill

£119.30

The Aftermath

We didn’t stay for Coffee, though Marg must have been overheard mentioning Chai.

Rocky presented a portion of Chai-mix, reminiscent of Turkish Apple Tea.

Marg may well purloin this.

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Berlin – Punjabi Zaiqa – Have They Peaked?

Another all too brief trip to Berlin gives Hector the opperchancity to return to Punjabi Zaiqa (Tromsöer Strasse 6, 13359 Berlin Deutschland), one of the favourite Curry Houses in all of Europe. Last month’s presentation of their usually outstanding Lamm Desi Korma (€12.90) did not set the heather on fire. Taking no risks, today the Hector was returning to his roots: Lamm Karahi (€14.90).

Marg and Hector took the U8 up to Osloer Straße. Alighting from the front of the train makes finding the correct exit so much simpler.

Entering Punjabi Zaiqa just on 14.00, Aniq was in his customary spot to take the Order. First, a quick recce of the fayre on display. A modest tray of Curry, then the biggest mountain of Samosas ever seen. As Marg observed, they were uncooked, so no reheats here.

Aniq raised an eyebrow as I confirmed – mit Knochen. As if the Hector would choose anything but Lamb on-the-bone. No Rice, just Bread. That would hopefully prevent the usual cascade of food that cannot be eaten.

I took a litre bottle of Fanta (€3.50) from the fridge whilst Marg considered her options. Still in Salad mode, Paneer Salad (€6.90) completed the Order.

With a couple of diners sitting towards the front of the seating area, Marg headed to the rear. All seats are grey: the reupholstering witnessed last time has removed all traces of green.

The wait for the Karahi felt appropriate, in time it arrived, but strangely, Marg’s Salad took another few minutes. Aniq brought the Bread and Curry on a tray.

I could have asked for Naan, I should have asked for Naan, but would the Roti have come as well? Served whole, risen, puffy, blistered, the Hector should be happy. Alas, the now dreaded Wholemeal Flour, I should cope.

*

*

Lamm Karahi

Ginger Strips, Coriander and a decent wedge of Lemon topped the Karahi. The Lemon was duly squeezed, a much better start than the recent visit to Akbar’s (Glasgow).

The portion size was as voluminous as ever. The Meat count was well into double figures, a lot to eat here. With its authentic Oily sheen, the Masala looked inviting. On closer examination, the Tomato base was evident, the Yoghurt appeared to be overdone.

The first dip of Bread in the Masala revealed a major problem. One that anyone else could have rectified, but not the Hector. Having not used a salt cellar at the table this century, I wasn’t going to let the standard drop today, how I wished I could. The Seasoning was well down from its norm at Punjabi Zaiqa. With last month in mind, I was speculating – a new Chef – or just a change in attitude?

The Meat, and care was taken to ensure Bone splinters did not do any damage to the gnashers or palate, was in comparatively large pieces. My first attempt at tackling the first of two Sucky Bones had to be abandoned, too hot to handle. Hot food, always a positive.

Tender to start more chewy as I filled, today, the Lamb was not giving back any more than its own Meatiness. Again, the mental alarm was ringing.

Marg had Lamm Karahi here back in March. My Soupçon on that day confirmed the efficacy maintained, a veritable – wow – moment. The intensity of Flavour from both Meat and Masala was remarkable, the Seasoning spot on.

With two Roti on the table, I thought between us, we should manage one. Yes, Marg was dipping pieces into the Masala. However, the Flavour of the Wholemeal Roti was dominating that from the Masala, it was becoming off-putting. The Bread would have been abandoned soon enough, today, sooner. Does this mean that from now on I am going to have to ask what type of Flour the Bread is made from? A definite spoiler, resulting in the abandoning of some Masala.

Served anywhere else in Berlin, I would have been celebrating today’s Curry. But no kid gloves at Punjabi Zaiqa, I know they can do much better.

Paneer Salad

Six strips of Paneer sat atop a fairly standard Salad. What I took to be Tamarind had been sprinkled over the Cheese, not a beautiful sight. Having had Coffee and presumably Cake or similar, this morning with The Ladies, this would prove to be a sufficient meal. Marg:

My Paneer Salad arrived little later than the Karahi. Beautifully (?) presented, six pieces of Paneer were laid out on top of the fresh lettuce, cucumber, tomato and onion surrounding the oval plate. There was sauce and a little paprika sprinkled over the Salad. I loved the fresh vegetables with the fried Paneer and managed to steal some of the sauce from the Karahi with the abundance of Bread. A very enjoyable lunch.

As we ate, so two ladies entered the restaurant, Balloon Ladies. Someone was having a party later. Is attaching a balloon to the paintwork with sticky tape a sensible practice? I shall be studying the walls closely next visit.

The Bill

25.30 (£21.82)

The Aftermath

Has the Chef changed – I asked Aniq – the food is different.

Last time you had the Korma – he recalled.

The difference between the two Dishes – a hard sauce – is how Aniq described the Karahi, and as for the Desi Korma, we both said – Shorva – in unison.

He insisted there had be no change in personnel.

Today the Curry needed more Salt.

Next time tell me.

Also! The Hector may well be heard to ask for a bit more Salt, and even chance his arm and add Methi to the instruction. Do I miss Karahi Palace (Glasgow)?

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Glasgow – Shahi Mahal – Sometimes A Great Notion

14.30 on a wet Thursday afternoon, you’ll have had yer summer, and Hector finds himself on the Southside. Fortunately Marg has done the driving, so integrity and well-being had been maintained.

Having stopped to take the exterior photo, Marg headed alone into Shahi Mahal (452 Cathcart Rd., Govanhill, Glasgow G40 7B2). She waited for me before approaching the counter where the two chaps recognised the Hector. No Zahir today, there was a clue outside as to why this was so, I’ll let the reader work that one out.

With a Lamb Feast scheduled for Saturday, I was not in the mindset for a heavy duty Curry, Vegetables were foremost in the mind. Still, the Aloo Gosht (£7.50) on display did look inviting. I resisted. The Mix Vegetable (£5.00) is what I had in mind already, with Rice. Containers of Rice were piled high behind the counter, however, it was the Chicken Biryani (£4.50) on display which caught the eye. All this was reminiscent of Sheerin Palace around the corner, Zahir’s previous place of employment before going on his own.

Marg saw the Samosas on display and ordered a Vegetable and a Lamb Mince.

With Salad! – she added eagerly thereafter.

The Price of a single Samosa remains unclear, possibly £1.50. Served with Salad £2.50/£4.00 depending on how much Salad one requires How would  they charge Marg’s Order of two Samosas? Also the menu says – 50p charge extra for sit-in – is this per item? Another puzzle for today.

Three other tables were occupied at various times, by individuals, one chap I recognised. There must be a happy band of, mostly Asian, chaps who tour the Southside Curry Cafes, where the real Curry in Glasgow is served.

A jug of tap water, no need for ice today, was brought to the table accompanied by a generous, but simple Salad and two bowls of Dips. There would be more than enough here to keep Marg amused and satisfy her need for – Salad.

Samosas

I am intrigued, how does one reheat a Samosa? Samosa-ding would kill the pastry. Deep frying would leave an oily residue. An air fryer should be ideal. They looked dry and crispy on the outside, so perhaps Hector’s theory holds?

As can be seen, Marg created quite a plateful, sadly no interior photos of the Samosas. They didn’t last long. But compared to the mountain of food across the table, Marg’s task was less daunting. 

Marg:

Decided to have Samosa instead of a Curry. Ordered a meat one as well as a vegetable samosa with salad. Added the plate of salad to my Samosas and some Raita on the side.

The Samosas were well fried, but the filling was soft and full of flavour. The potato was present in both and gave the dish the necessary spice alongside the vegetable and minced lamb. I enjoyed the contrast of the fresh salad and the sauce gave enough moisture to the whole dish.

Chicken Biryani

Two pieces of Chicken served on-the-bone were buried in the mass of Pilau. I assumed that some of the Raita was as an accompaniment. No need, the Rice had a sufficient level of moisture and the Hector had another source to turn this into something even better. There was enough here for two.

Mix Vegetable

What an array of Vegetables! I’ll even forgive the stray pieces of Yellow Capsicum. Potato, Cauliflower, Peas, Carrot, Aubergine, Coriander and was that Tomato or Red Capsicum

The Masala Mash shrouded the Vegetables, a residue of Shorva was collecting at the side of the plate. There was nothing left to do but chuck the entire contents of the bowl on top of the Biryani.

Now we’re talking.

Starting with the Rice, tasty enough but not as outstanding enjoyed at Curry Pot in recent visits. However, one key ingredient I have been missing of late is the humble Clove. I picked out a few of these, Whole, then a large piece of Cinnamon Bark. These two Spices gave the Pilau its extra edge.

Meat and Masala, I admit to not being that excited currently about the simplicity of a standard Curry. The Diversity of Vegetables adds so much more in terms of Texture and Flavour. The sweetness from the Carrots, the distinctiveness of Peas, the Cauliflower blast. But the king of all these, the Potato. I remarked to Marg, I think I could easily just have a Potato Curry these days. The Potato had absorbed the Flavours of the Shorva, and was giving back so much Spice in the way that too often, Meat does not.

The there was the Chicken. Dry, white Meat which does not absorb. Just what does Chicken add to a Curry?

You’re picking out the best bits – observed Marg.

Indeed, there was a strategy. With the car around the corner, a Doggy Bag was possible. With the Vegetables taken care of, a suitable portion of Pilau could be taken home and had another day.

Satisfaction, I can’t get no, was attained. I took the remnants up to the counter.

The Bill

£15.00 A fair price, exactly how it was calculated, we’ll never know.

The Aftermath

A quiet exit. No Zahir, no party.

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Glasgow – Akbar’s – A Subpar Evening

I wonder if they have fixed the hand drier! – texted Alan earlier in the day. November 2022 was the last time Alan, Tracy, Marg and Hector dined at Akbar’s (573-581 Sauchiehall Street G3 7PQ). Other Curry Houses are available, and it does take an alignment of the planets for the four of us to be free on the same evening.

The booking was for 19.00, Marg was last to arrive, once again Maria was our efficient waitress.

Poppadoms were suggested: if Imran wants us to have them, they will arrive.

There was no sign of Imran this evening.

Only one small bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.00) was ordered this evening, by Marg. The Hector succumbed to a solitary pint of Cobra (£6.95), an outrageous charge for a bog standard lager. Tracy had a small bottle (£5.00) of the same, even less value. Alan considered a bottle white wine (£24.95) to be his optimum tipple. Served warm, just how long was one supposed to wait for the ice bucket to have any effect? The pint of lager was also served at too warm a temperature. A top up with ice was required.

Akbar’s are making a mint from Drinks sales, they could at least serve them at the appropriate temperature.

Hector was here for the food, Bradford Curry in Glasgow. A repeat of my choices on the last visit in January should be manageable: a share of Meat Chops (£7.95) followed by Karahi Gosht & Spinach (£15.95). Marg, who has not had Keema for ages, opted for Karahi Keema & Matter (£14.50).

A bit of persuasion was now required. Marg prefers a Chapatti (£1.00) as her optimum accompaniment, Nobody else desired Naan, and for one, a waste of Bread. Marg agreed to share a Coriander & Chilli Nan (£4.50).

As on their last visit, Alan and Tracy were sharing Meat Chops then having Karahi Gosht & Spinach and Karahi Chicken & Spinach (£14.95) respectively. Why has it taken Hector so long to catch on to this Saag/Palak delight? Tracy asked for Chicken Tikka. Once more, a Chapatti each.

Maria took the Order. She admitted to remembering Marg & I from January this year.

How was the tip?

This she couldn’t remember. She should now remember having her photo taken.

Maria made it clear that anything we weren’t happy with could be replaced. The Order would have to be wrong before Hector would do this, or inedible, an unlikely outcome. Alan did ask for more ice, that the Bier and Wine was warm was communicated.

We always ask for the Meat Chops to be well done. After many years, we are still waiting for them to be truly cremated. Maybe tonight was the night? Neither Alan or I had, as yet, checked the hand drier.

Served – Desi-style – was also the requirement for Alan, Tracy and Hector.

When ordering from the Desi-Apna section of the menu, why do we have to ask? Even in Bradford, this has become the norm.

We settled down for the wait. Once upon a time the staff at Akbar’s used to give a precise time, no more.

Tonight, the sun was still high enough in the sky to cause problems for those of us sitting at the window and facing west. Despite the presence of blinds, these were purely decorative. Alan was but a silhouette from my side of the table. It’s an ill wind…

Maria brought two Dips, then the bottle of Chilli Sauce, which staff here were previously programmed to describe as – Special. Has it lost its edge?

*

*

*

*

Meat Chops

Four Lamb Chops, and after my most recent visit to The Downsman (Crawley), these remain attractively priced in comparison.

There was only a hint of Charcoal on some of the eight Chops presented. Is the kitchen simply not willing to serve them as asked for? One of my two had two pink spots, so not even cooked through never mind – well done.

Still, their succulence impressed the Hector, tasty, and with the other bits on the plate, as much an amuse-bouche as a Starter per se. Four Chops are always better than two, but knowing what follows, one has to be realistic. The Chilli Sauce did take the Spice Level up to – eleven.

Tracy, who generally does not eat Lamb, was not impressed by her Chops.

Awful, too fatty.

This was relayed to Maria. The complaints were piling up, no action.

Proper Chapattis, not the Wholemeal versions which I keep encountering. But missing out on the ritual of the Naan at Akbar’s, no way.

Partly risen, puffy loadsa blisters, Hector’s sort of Naan.

I moved the Naan from the edge of the table towards the centre. I was then able to obscure the sun. It also meant I couldn’t see Alan at all for the duration of the eating.

Karahi Gosht & Spinach

The pathetic piece of Lemon was insulting, neither use or ornament. If adding Lemon Juice is a key part of this Dish, then give a decent slice, not the skin. The Coriander as a Topping was incidental given the Herb content of the Curry.

A Masala with Herbs, the Oil collecting on the periphery, Hector’s ideal Methi/Palak Gosht. The plentiful Meat was cut small but not as extreme as – Bradford small. The overall volume did not appear to be challenging, the eyes can mislead. In time I would have to abandon the Bread, as is my norm, to concentrate on the Karahi.

The Dry, Thick, Bradford Curry had set the standard of expectation long before the birth of Curry-Heute. The Bradford Curry Taste was there, sensed immediately. Even in Bradford I have failed to register this of late, if at all. Methi, it must have been in there too. Contradicting the empirical writings in Curry-Heute, this intensity of Flavour had been achieved with a remarkably low level of Seasoning. The Herbs fill the gap.

The Spice Level was moderate. The sliced Green and Red Chillies added extra bite when the notion took me.

Desi-Apna, yet no Whole Spices present, no Bones, and whilst the Tender Meat was key to the overall enjoyment it was not giving much else back. Dare I ask, how was this a Desi Curry?

There was something fundamental which made my enjoyment of this Curry less than it could have been. I watched the vapour rise from Marg’s Keema, most certainly this was not emanating from my Karahi. How long had my Curry been sitting before it was brought to the table? The curse of dining in a restaurant, and as ever, tonight, Akbar’s was wedged. Warm food, Hector likes his – hot.

Loads of promises – remarked Alan who sought even more ice to try and cool the wine. – the chops were tasty but very under fired, despite the well fired order. Some were better than others.

The main was good.

*

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Karahi Chicken Tikka & Spinach

Who doesn’t like Chicken Tikka? If one is going to have a Chicken Curry, then maybe this is the better option?  However, pouring Sauce over Meat does not a Curry make.

Given the unique request, one can deduce that Chicken and Masala had only recently been introduced. Again, how was is this a Desi Curry? Tracy’s verdict for the evening:

Unfortunately for me the starter was fatty and well under fired despite asking to be well fired. My (Curry) was supposedly Chicken Tikka, tasted like boiled chicken to me.

Tracy tends to take a Doggy Bag home with around half of her main course. Tonight she went for it, managing a quantity such that only tiddlers remained.

Does one assume enjoyment? 

Karahi Keema & Matter

Topped with Coriander and a decent slice of Lemon, this was a classic Keema. Below the Mince, just a hint of Masala collecting on the base of the karahi. The Peas, and Potato when offered, always add a new dimension to – just Spicy Mince.

Marg had plenty to say this evening:

Decided to share the Lamb Chops starter. Four chops arrived, and although we asked for them well fired, only one seemed slightly burnt. I enjoyed the flavour of them.

When my Keema Matter arrived it was a big portion. The mince and peas were full of spice and there was an enjoyable kick of coriander as well. We shared a Coriander & Chilli Nan which was hung on the metal tree stand. Unfortunately for me, I would have preferred a Roti. The Chilli Nan made my dish too spicy for me. I enjoyed the rich flavours from the Keema. Did not eat too much of the Nan.

There was a Doggy Bag.

I ordered Kashmiri Tea (£4.95) after the food. A pink/brown liquid arrived in a tea cup with a few spices floating. An enjoyable drink and good for digestion.

Alan and Tracy had their customary Espresso (£2.95), whilst the Hector still had the dregs of his solitary lager, to which further ice had been added to prolong the pleasure.

By the end of the meal enough displeasure had been tallied: warm wine, insufficiently chilled Bier, fatty Chops, not cooked as asked, the blinding sun not able to be dealt with, warm-not-hot main course.

The front of house staff were not to blame for any of the above, so giving them a hard time would have been grossly unfair. The question has to be asked: what are the people behind them up to?

The saga of the hand drier may be an indication of this. I found it to be operating, but the direction nozzle missing. Alan regarded this as still broken.

He summed up our visit:

Disappointing, lots of talk, no walk. Nothing lasts forever, although the broken hand drier might!

The Bill

£140.00 Including £1.00 extra for the Chicken Tikka.

The Aftermath

The conversation after the meal was basically about where to go in Glasgow next time. We may have to accept that the venues with the best Curry do not have the ambience, and don’t serve booze.

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