Glasgow – Shezan Tandoori – 40 Years After

Curry in Mt. Florida? Assuming the name has not altered in the last forty years, Shezan Tandoori (1096 Cathcart Rd, Mt. Florida, Glasgow G42 9XW) has occupied this locus for many decades. This was Hector’s Local Curry House between 1977 and 1980.  I visited once, it was terrible. But what did Hector know of Curry back then? Akbar’s in Cochrane St., beside the City Chambers, served a Lamb Curry with the most distinctive Flavours that Hector had ever encountered, apart from the early days when Mother was experimenting with – Cumin.

What were Hector’s Curry Parameters in the 1970s?

The Company as was back then, flipped between here and the Noor Mahal in Shawlands where P.J. was but a lad, busy in the kitchen, doing the washing up. These were the days of Meat and Mushroom Bhuna Vindaloo. I still recall the first time I saw a Chap at the Noor Mahal eat a Curry without Rice, Chapattis? You must be joking.

Have you tried Lychees? – he asked.

Lychees, tinned of course, and Ice Cream, Wow!

That’s how Hector remained for years until Neil came up with – Rogan Josh, a Curry featuring Tomatoes, not the – Creamy – nonsense that prevails currently.

Having decided that in 2018 I will complete the coverage of Glasgow Curry Houses, Shezan Tandoori had to be revisited. The Mt. Florida coverage began a couple of years back when I reviewed the nearby Lassani Tandoori. The Taj (?) has closed since then, Shezan saw this one off, that was a surprise.

The online Menu for Shezan Tandoori impressed, here was a Menu with genuine – Diversity – not endless tweaks of the same Dish, as their nearest restaurant rivals – Alishan Tandoori – in Battlefield, may be accused of. The term – Desi – was a welcome sight, as was the availability of Lamb on-the-bone and the warning about extended waiting times for their – Home Made Karahi.

What could possibly go wrong?

Google Maps informed me that Shezan Tandoori is open daily from noon until late, I planned my usual Saturday mid afternoon Curry. Unfortunately, due to the broadcasting of some minority sport on TV, it was felt the State Bar may be stowed, an early kick off was deemed necessary for us all. And so Hector presented at Shezan Tandoori yesterday @13.00. Closed.

It was Marg, enjoying the start of her February Week Holiday, who suggested Curry-Heute. I phoned Shezan Tandoori last night to verify today’s opening time, 16.00. Perfect. Michael, who was present at this afternoon’s meeting of the – BBC – decided to accompany us, he has also signed up for – Yadgar #100 next month.

Some were waiting for Takeaways as we entered at 18.45, a Couple were the only people Dining In. The Waitress – Celine – brought the Menus. I had to ask about the opening times. Shezan Tandoori is only open on Friday Lunchtimes from 12.00 until 14.00. Celine said she would have to look into the misleading information on Google Maps. Was she – more than – the Waitress? With her name embroidered on her blouse, Celine was evidently not a newcomer to these premises. Little did I know at the start of the Meal how extensive our discourse would become.

I returned from – The Facilities– to be informed that three 330ml Bottles of Sparkling Water (£2.50) had been ordered, no Large Bottles available. Had I been present I would have accepted Tap Water. Who pays £7.50 for a Litre of Water?  We would, apparently.

There were probably six Dishes I would consider worthy as being classed as a Hector Curry. I had previously read a review insisting that all should try Lamb Chops (£5.95) at Shezan. This disrupted Marg’s plan of sharing a Vegetable Pakora (£3.50). Michael was intrigued by Aubergine Pakora (£4.50). Three Starters it would be.

The given description of Karahi Gosht (£9.95) included everything I seek in a Karahi and no mention of the – Dreaded Ballast. Just in case, I enquired as to the inclusion of Capsicum. No Peppers – was noted. Michael decided to follow suit. Celine asked if he minded Peppers in his Karahi…so they would have sneaked in! Michael too asked for them to be withheld. Who puts Capsicum in a Karahi? Too many!

Marg took me by surprise: Lamb Dansac (£8.95). Marg does not read Curry-Heute, Dhansak has featured prominently in recent weeks with Lord Clive of Crawley almost ever-present. What put this in her mind? She stuck to her usual solitary Chapatti (£1.00). If I was going to fully appraise Shezan, then I had to have a Mince Paratha (£3.50). Michael chose the Vegetable Paratha (£2.50).

The Sparkling Water aside, one has to recognise that these prices are very competitive, particularly for the Parathas. Let me not be the person who suggests a price review.

I forgot to ask for – Lamb on-the-bone. Our Waitress never enquired about Spice Level. I forgot something else too, but then I always do.

We had plenty of time to take in the surroundings. Despite the – gushet – siting, the premises are smaller than I anticipated, I certainly had no memory of the interior. Twenty five could be sat in the main room at seven tables, though there was a small overflow at the far side of the Bar. A Bar, yes, this is a Restaurant-proper, tablecloths too. What was Hector doing here?

The – Lilac – lighting explains the strange colourisation of the photos. I cannot photograph a Menu with flash.

The Starters

Three Lamb Chops for six quid? – was my immediate reaction. There was an immediate re-evaluation as to the house prices.

A Tray with Dips was brought once the Chops and Pakora were on the table. There was something for everyone. No Tamarind, not a common feature of UK Dips, yet.

The Chops were served on a plate, not – Sizzling – on an iron platter. They were – Warm – rather than – Too Hot to Handle. The Chops were – well done – and so very Tasty. The Red Chilli Sauce was a good complement. The Salad on the plate was a standout, very Fresh Components. Is today a good day to extend my – Curry-Heute Campaign – to include – Lettuce – in the category of – Ballast?

Marg has six large pieces of Vegetable Pakora. Her intention was to share. She already knew what awaited. One piece came my way.

Fairly filling, enjoyed the Salad, and a good selection of Dips – was her verdict.

I too enjoyed my piece, and yes it was Larger than the norm.

Aubergine Pakora is something I associate more with German Curry Houses. It is not the Melange that is Vegetable Pakora but simply – Eggplant in a Spicy Batter. Again six good sized pieces were present. Michael dealt with this efficiently.

It wasn’t over-daunting – was his considered remark.

We hoped Chef would still be busy preparing the two Karahi Dishes, and so provide time for digestion. The Mains arrived in good time.

Keema Paratha

Served in eight slices it resembled a Pizza. I had forgotten to ask for my Bread to be served – Whole! It is so much better to tear off strips rather than have predetermined slices.

The Paratha was delightfully – Hot – in the way the Lamb Chops had not been. I peeled open a slice, the hoped for Brown Grains were present. I forgave the – slicing. Fresh Coriander was in the mix too. I made my first Dip into the Masala.

How long has Shezan Tandoori been under the present management?

This was a Paratha! As good as a Keema Paratha can be. One expects – Flakiness – to be lost in a stuffed Paratha, it was, however this was a Wondrous Paratha, the Seasoning! I could have eaten this Paratha on its own. I would encourage Marg to have a slice knowing I would never finish it. She too was impressed.

Michael’s Vegetable Paratha was at the same standard:

An excellent Paratha.

Karahi Gosht

Not huge – was among my first notes. On counting the Meat and reaching – ten – I appreciated that the Karahi was deeper than the norm, deceptive. The Lamb was giving out Flavour having already absorbed so much. The Meat and Masala tasted as if they belonged together.

The Lilac Light meant I could not see the basis of the Masala. Tomato pieces revealed themselves as I made progress.  This was a suitably Thick and not Excessive Masala, approaching that which I continually seek. The Seasoning, ah the Seasoning. Some may have been overwhelmed, however, Hector always congratulates a Chef who is this brave. No Seasoning, no Flavour. Onion pieces were dug up from the base of the Karahi, this could have been accompanied by wedges of Capsicum, relief.

Whilst this Karahi Gosht most certainly had – Pedigree – it was not as – full on – Flavour-wise as my most favoured venues. Think back to yesterday at Ambala Deli Bar, for example. With – The Hector Tweaks – perhaps this might get there… Methi required.

Michael limited himself to – A very good Karahi.

We don’t need no – Tyros.

*

Lamb Dansac

Special Dansac – is what Marg picked up from the Menu. Visually I could not tell this apart from the Karahi, so perhaps the former had more Masala than required?

A bit Salty for me, but it’s not stopping me eating it – was Marg’s first take on her Dhansak.

Marg should be used to her husband’s cooking by now, and his Recipes.

The Pakora had set a self-fulfilling prophecy; it was a matter of how much Marg would manage. Half of the very Standard Chapatti was eaten. When she finally admitted defeat, Marg felt she had left quite a bit of the Meat, but the photographs would later reveal that she had mopped up quite a bit of the Masala. A – Doggy Bag – would be called for: the two remaining slices of Keema Paratha added.

Overall, a substantial Curry with a Lentil base, which I’m not used to. A tasty change.

Dhansak for Lunch

Three pieces of Lamb in a beautifully Thick, Lentil-rich Masala, were reheated for Monday Lunch. No more moisture was added, it turned out just fine. The first thing that struck was the Lamb – Tikka Lamb. Marg had not mentioned this, she now confirmed it. As much as we both enjoy Tikka Lamb, we eschew it in a Masala. Have Tikka Lamb as a Starter, in a Kebap even. Curry is surely a – Stew – after-all.

The Lentils impressed. I liked the – Extra Thickness – they gave. I could see me enjoying this with Tender Lamb. Why were we given Tikka Lamb when –Tender – was included on the Menu, or did Marg ask for – Special Dansac?

Meanwhile at Shezan

Celine had observed the intense note-taking and photographing of everything that did not move. It was time to reveal why Hector was here this evening. The LG was set up with the Curry-Heute Website and the Calling Card handed over.

Celine immediatey recognised the Calling Card.

I’ve served you before, but not here, Victoria Road.

I assumed – Anarkali – but no, my second visit to Danny Singh’s Ghandi. Celine has been at Shezan for some eighteen months. This established the basis for the lengthy conversation which followed, during which time we thought we had better settle up.

The Bill

£55.30. The Food itself was great value.

The Aftermath

Chef was by now out of the kitchen. Celine took the LG with the photo of the – Beautifully – Dry Karahi Gosht –  especially prepared for me at Danny Singh’s.

Can you make this? – she asked Chef?

Next time!

From somewhere appeared Mein Host. Introductions were made, start again. This was Hector in his element, there’s nothing better than a good chat after a Good Curry.

Mr. Singh has had Shezan Tandoori since 1982(?), so my displeasure forty years ago was not down to him. I congratulated him on the range of Dishes on the Menu. He is proud that they can provide – Authentic Desi Cuisine – making Shezan much more than a Mainstream Curry House.

I had to enquire about Fish Curry as I had only seen – Fish Masala – as a Starter. This clearly struck a chord:

Come back, I guarantee you will not taste anything like my Fish Masala in the UK! – said Mein Host.

Hector will most certainly be back after the 2018 Mission is completed.

Update 2023

Alas, this was not to be. This Curry House closed at some point during Lockdown.

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