Nelson – The Indian Cafe – South Island Curry #1

Nelson, New Zealand, not on everyone’s – Bucket List – but if you know your hops, then it becomes a pilgrimage. Marg and Hector are being hosted by Julia’s mum. Julia last appeared in these pages in 2015 at another hallowed venue: Indian Mango (München, Bayern). It was Julia who suggested, nay insisted, we try The Indian Cafe (94 Collingwood Street, Nelson 7010 New Zealand) whilst visiting her home town.

Indian Cafe, the name was right up Hector’s street. Of wooden construction, the building resembles a pavilion, as further suggested by the outdoor seating area, but there is a more robust interior.

We arrived at 17.40, just after evening opening time. Entering from the car park, it appears with hindsight that this was from the rear, but this is where the bar and till was, so who knows? Julia?

Do you have a reservation? – asked one of the Indian female staff.

Why does this always amuse, and I am not just referring to the near empty restaurant.

We were permitted to choose any of the smaller tables. Two other sets of diners were in situ.

The menu is classic – BIR, so no Lamb on-the-bone. With the usual restrictions in place, for Hector it came down to: Fish Masala (NZ$25.98), Lamb Madras (NZ£24.98) or Lamb Vindaloo (NZ$24.98). Marg claimed the Fish Masala leaving Hector to have Lamb Madras.

With Rice included with the main courses, we would add a Naan (NZ$3.98). A giraffe of tap water had been brought to the table already, just the one Sparkling Water (NZ$5.98). The price was such that it was either expensive for a small one, or good value for a large. Small.

The waitress took note of the Spice Level preferences: Medium – for Marg, Medium-plus – for Hector. It’s amazing just how many restaurants do not consider this to be an integral part of the ordering process.

During the wait, which was comparatively brief, Marg and Hector swapped the day’s photos. The flight here was also short, more on this on Bier-Traveller, as and when. A large sizzling platter of Tandoori Chicken was brought to the adjacent table. One misses out on such delights when time permits only a single visit to any venue. Hector is due an overdose on Tandoori Lamb Chops.

The Rice was approaching a Euro-portion. We had more than enough. The Bread, served in bits, was a fine example of a Tandoori Naan. With puffy, burnt blisters, a joy. Risen enough, this is the Naan the Hector has been missing for too long.

We managed all but a scrap.

Lamb Madras

The sprinkling of Coconut, as a Topping, is becoming a common feature of Curry across Europe, less so in the UK. There was not enough to distort the overall Flavour of the Curry. Did the Coconut add to it?

On decanting the Meat, the pieces were found to be large and plentiful. With the Rice included, this was a lot of Curry for the £. The quantity of Rice on the plate was therefore well judged, a Hector portion.

The Masala was of the standard blended fayre. There was no sign of a Herb infusion, the occasional piece of Onion revealed itself. At this point I have to remind myself and the reader that The Indian Cafe is a Mainstream Curry House, the review has to reflect the setting: no kilos of Karahi Gosht on offer here. The Hector is having good old fashioned – Curry.

The Spice Level was decidedly – medium – the – plus – was maybe lost in translation. The Seasoning was neither noticeable or lacking. Peppery – was noted, thereafter I struggled to identify anything distinctive. With no – whole Spices – the task becomes more difficult. The quality of the Lamb, New Zealand Lamb, I like writing this, impressed. Maybe one or two pieces required proper chewing, the remainder was melt in the mouth. At this point one recognises the limits of the Mainstream. Good as the Lamb was, it was not giving off any more Flavour than its own Meatiness.

Dipping the Naan in the retained Masala, proved to be a worthy distraction from Meat and Masala. Overall, this was the classic example of nothing not to like.

Decent Curry.

Fish Masala

The Coriander garnish set this apart from the Coconut above. If the Madras handi was filled to the top, this one was almost overflowing. A Soupçon came Hector’s way. There is a simple test in Curry-Heute for any Fish Curry:

does it taste of Fish?

Absolutely! There was a big Fishy blast, this was clearly the more rewarding Curry.  The Onion had more of a presence here also.

Tilapia – is my best guess for the species of Fish. The waitress never returned, so there was no opperchancity to engage. A pity.

Marg commented, more than once, on the sheer quantity of Fish in the handi. Again, value confirmed. Marg’s verdict:

The dish was brimming with loads of fish and sauce. Strong onion and fish flavours in a rich, dark sauce. The fish pieces were plentiful and intact.

The rice absorbed the sauce. I enjoyed the hot, buttered Naan as well.

Not a grain of Rice was left on either plate. The appetites had been sated.

The Bill

NZ$ 62.44 (£29.84) Apart from the Sparkling Water, great value.

The Aftermath

Having gone up to pay, the Calling Card was presented and Curry-Heute outlined. Curry in Nelson, a once in a lifetime experience for Hector, a formality otherwise. Charlie, who appeared last week in the review of Des Traditions (Auckland), now regards himself as – World famous in New Zealand. Today, an opperchancity missed.

Thanks for coming – was the polite farewell. 

2024 Menu