Glasgow – Curry Cottage – Back For The Goat!

Goat Meat (on the bone) (£14.95), the reason why I keep returning to Curry Cottage (91 Cambridge Street, Glasgow G3 6RU). This rarity in Glasgow was suspended over the Festive period at the turn of the year, then through Ramadan. A Curry in May, plenty of time for the normal menu to be restored.

Pratap, Mein Host, was not in the house as I entered at 14.00. Three tables were occupied, two solo diners, the Hector became the third. Chef was doing front of house duties, having served me previously, he duly made me aware of his recognition.

The Curry was duly ordered along with the customary Cumin Rice (£4.50). a glass of Tap Water was secured, no ice.

I watched the other customers food arrive. It would have been too much of a brass neck to strain to see what other peeps had ordered.

Their food, of course, would have tasted so much better if the Hector had photographed it en route.

Pratap came in, acknowledged his other customers, but stopped to address the Hector.

I’m back for the Goat – I announced. A bit predictable, and I shall remind the reader that Curry Cottage always has different Daily Specials on offer.

The Fish Karahi (£18.00) I have mentioned previously. Pratap has assured me that he can withhold the dreaded Capsicum, which he would add otherwise. After Monday’s experience at Mother India’s Cafe, maybe I should have taken the plunge, then also ranted about the price of a Fish Curry. But, I was here for the Goat!

Pratap brought out my meal, including an extra plate. I do not like adding Rice to Curry.

Cumin Rice, a well judged portion, manageable, realistic. With abundant Cumin, I looked forward to playing the – Seed Reappearance Game – later.

Goat Meat (on the bone)

The Topping of fresh Spinach was novel. Cooked, but not cooked-in, there was no sense of a Saag/Palak invasion. I did not count the pieces of Goat as I decanted, however, the Bone count would only reach three, so plenty of Meat. No Sucky Bones, Goat is empirically different.

Hot food, always noted and appreciated. A Bay Leaf was the only solid encountered in the blended Masala. The Meat was – Super-soft – which is to be commended, Goat needs more cooking. Initially, I was not sensing Spice coming back from the Meat, the notes were revised towards the end. This Curry was working.

A good – kick – the Seasoning built steadily as I ate. A highlight was when I did suck the large triangular bone, this had it all, and justified my effort. This was as close to a – Wow! – moment as I reached today. Whilst the Masala had an interesting – tang – it was not full on in terms of Flavour. Fortunately, the added rush of Flavour from the Cumin Seeds proved that this Rice combination was the ideal accompaniment.

Good as this Curry was, next time I should try something else. There are always interesting options at Curry Cottage as the dedicated page confirms.

The Bill

£18.90 A bit knocked off the price of the Cumin Rice. Cheers!

The Aftermath

Pratap asked if I wrote books. Just my two Blogs, though the volume written could  make for a bound illustrated tome. Any publishers out there?

Do I make money from my writings was the next questions. A hobby, albeit the Hector is – startlingly committed – as described by Ron MacKenna of the The Herald.

As Pratap escorted me to the door, a chap came in with his elderly mother, regulars, this took Hector back a few years.

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Glasgow – Mother India’s Cafe – It’s Been A While, I Know Why

Marg has long proclaimed that the Butter Chicken (£8.75) at Mother India’s Cafe (1355 Argyle St, Glasgow, G3 8AD)  sets the standard. Somehow it’s almost four years since this was last verified. For Hector, the Machi Masala (£8.75) has always been the – must have. The suggestion that we return was therefore met with strong approval, despite the knowledge that we could eat for half the price in the oft-frequented Southside Curry Cafes.

Arriving at 13.40 on this Bank Holiday Monday, around half of the tables were occupied. The waitress led us to a table we had never sat at before, at the wall opposite the window. The menu was brought along with the hand-written list of Daily Specials.

Also, a third menu, a mid-afternoon Tapas menu with no price quoted. It was established that this choice of four Tapas and two Sundries was £25.00. Much better value if one likes Chicken and/or Capsicum, the latter always a needless feature of their Lamb Karahi (£9.25).

Being not quite 14.00, and also a holiday, the waitress was about to remove the mid-afternoon menu but then checked that the offer was valid. As I know how this all ends, we would have been better choosing from this list, regardless.

A 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water (£4.75) was ordered at once. We then spent quite a few minutes before declaring our second Dish. For Marg: Aloo Gobi & Green Peas (£7.50). For Hector, it was a case of which Lamb option. Alan’s South Indian Ginger Lamb (£9.25) today trumped Roadside Lamb (£9.25) and Lamb on the bone Curry (£9.95).

At Mother India’s Cafe, Marg always has Lemon & Cashew Nut Rice (£4.50), so in a reverse of our norm, it was left to Hector to order the Chapati (£1.75).

It was Mein Host who took the Order. I had to ask – who is Alan?

Reportedly, a regular who loves his South Indian Ginger Lamb. At the time of ordering, I had no idea that my choices today were per my last visit here at the start of 2024. My last review was such that I considered removing Mother India’s Cafe from Glasgow’s Top Rated and therefore Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses.

During the wait, an alarm sounded, for a full ten minutes. This did drown out the local Curry expert at the adjacent table who was educating his family, and all within hearing distance, i.e. everyone, about the merits and demerits of every conceivable Curry. Cue their Korma.

There’s no Desi Korma at Mother India’s Cafe.

Marg had forgotten that the Rice portion is disproportionate to the volume of an individual Tapas. The consequence was a plate which looked like a dog’s breakfast. The Chapatti was close to Hector’s preferred style, little sign of Wholemeal Flour. A second Chapatti was considered, but £3.50 for the pair, no way, Pedro.

Again I refer the reader to the mid-afternoon menu.

Butter Chicken

As yellow-orange and Soupy as ever, this Tapas portion featured two larger pieces of Chicken and one smaller. As curiosity may have seen the Hector have a Soupçon in the past, not today. Marg’s verdict (below) would suffice.

Aloo Gobi & Green Peas

This has been had as – & Green Beans – previously. Today’s also featured Green Beans. The Dry, Thick, Minimal Masala was topped with slivers of Orange Capsicum. The latter easily avoided. Notionally, Marg’s selection, more than anticipated came my way due to the volume of the Rice. The Potato was doing the heavy lifting in terms of Flavour and what little Spice-kick hit the palate. There was seemingly less of the aromatic Cauliflower present. Lacking in Seasoning, the whole Dish was therefore lacking in Flavour. This was second division Aloo Gobi compared to Yadgar, who may set the standard in Glasgow.

Marg’s words: A lovely change for Curry was a visit to Mother India’s Cafe. I ordered one of my favourite dishes, Butter Chicken. It arrived with three pieces of Chicken, two were large. The sauce was redder than I expected, but had the creaminess and a slight kick to it. The sauce went well with the abundance of Lemon & Cashew Nut Rice. I enjoyed the crunchy nuts throughout the dish.

The Aloo Gobi was full of Cauliflower, Green Beans, Peas & Potatoes. A different texture to the dish.

Maybe it was Marg who purloined the Cauliflower?

Machi Masala

At the dawn of Curry-Heute, this was oft described as the best Fish Curry found in Glasgow. It may well still be, such is the lack of competition. Here, a Thick Masala topped with Syboes, not the Soupy Masala which prevails across the city when Fish is served in a sauce. The – orange – is testimony to how this Curry has changed in the last twenty years or so.

The white Fish I took to be Haddock, but something darker lay below. The Spice Level was not challenging, but noticeable. The now accepted Tanginess was present, long gone is the Citrus. The derogatory term – Mainstream – was once more coming to mind, when something happened. At the base of the plate, the darker Fish, only two small pieces, but here was the Seasoning the Flavour, the Fishiness, one seeks. A plateful of this would have had the Hector in raptures.

Alan’s South Indian Ginger Lamb

Again Syboes topped the blended Masala. Five pieces of Meat, the majority were a decent size. Tender Lamb, but the Meat was not giving back any sense of having absorbed Spice, and therefore – Flavour – other than its own meatiness.

What I took to be strips of cooked Onion were examined more closely, Capsicum. Why? This explained the random Sweetness, totally out of place in a South Indian Curry. I awaited the blast of toasted Coconut, Smokiness, it was not coming. Ginger Strips were outnumbered by Capsicum. Moderately Spiced, under-Seasoned, the only distinctive Flavour was when I bit into a whole Green Cardamom. Whole Spice, at least one tick in the Desi list.

I can accept that the Masala in the Fish Curry was more potent and therefore gave the Lamb Curry more work to register on the palate. However, I have to ask – in what way was this Curry associated with South India?

The Bill

£45.45 An expensive lunch. We would have been better accepting the mid-afternoon menu and maybe ordering the Machi Masala too.

The Aftermath

The original waitress asked the customary question, a bit late. Where was Mein Host?

My thoughts on the so-called South Indian Ginger Lamb were expressed.

As I conclude this Blog entry I am left to wonder to what extent Mother India’s Cafe is living off its name? Once upon a time, this was a standout venue. Having visited all but a deliberately avoided handful of Curry Houses in Glasgow, the realisation is: Mother India’s Cafe ain’t that special at this time.

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Glasgow – New Cafe Reeshah – The Best Curry for your £ in Glasgow?

Having enjoyed a run of excellent Curry outings in Glasgow in the last few weeks, why let the level of expectation drop? Another visit to New Cafe Reeshah (455 Shields Road, Pollokshields, Glasgow G41 1NP) felt overdue. Two months, where does the time go?

Three ladies occupied the larger of the two tables as I entered Cafe Reeshah at 13.40. I claimed my usual spot. Arshad greeted, then brother Amjad also appeared behind the counter. They know I keep giving them wonderful reviews, hopefully the word is spreading across the city that something special is happening here. Not only is their food excellent, the value may be the most competitive in the city for Desi Curry. DumPukht Lahori had held that accolade, no more, as was established midweek.

I glanced at the Curry on display, the reason for my being here was the Lamb Karahi (£11.00), served on-the-bone. The container was full, all was well. Beside it was what I took to be an interesting looking Aloo Gobi, more on that below.

A small Naan (£2.50) – I put to Arshad. This was repeated to Amjad. I cannot get anywhere near finishing the Naan served here, last time we agreed that that – a half – could be served. Having helped myself to the tap water on the counter, I settled down for the short wait. Salad and Sauce were declined, no mention of a Coriander Topping today.

The three ladies were having an extended conversation having finished their sit-in meal.. Unknown to me, they were now waiting for a substantial Takeaway. Someone has to buy Haleem (£7.00 / £9.00).

The wait was remarkably short, as long as it took the cook the Naan. I would like to know the method of reheating the Curry portion, stove I assume.

The – small – Naan was surprisingly close to, if not the same size as their standard. Wastage guaranteed.

Whole, risen, puffy, with blisters forming, as the Hector likes it. Soft, used for mopping up the Masala, eaten until the body sends the signal – no more Bread.

How do people eat multiple Naan?

*

Lamb Karahi

Yes, technically I had the same meal three days ago at DumPukht Lahori, but such are the interpretations, this would be a completely different experience altogether … this would a completely different eating experience.

Here the Ginger Strips had been cooked in. With peripheral Oil, the Masala was closer to what I expect a Karahi to look like. Way fewer Bones than Wednesday’s at DumPukht, and of course, the Sucky Bones were here too.

The Masala oozed quality, Tomato-based. This time the Seasoning registered before the Spice, as the distinctive Cafe Reeshah House Flavours emerged. Rich, satisfying, consistent, and that was just the Masala.

The Tenderest of Lamb, and having sat in the Masala, Flavours had been absorbed ready to be given back. Each time I have Curry in these modest premises I remind myself why I am reluctant to visit the Pukka Restaurants of The Merchant City, where one would pay more than double to find anything close to this, if at all.

Amjad checked on my progress, from behind the counter initially – enjoying?

Spring Lamb had been used in the preparation of this Karahi Gosht. Amjad outlined his appreciation that this makes the outcome even more special. He then came out for a chat, proper.

He offered to cook Peshwari Karahi with advance notice. Fearful that I might prefer what sat before me, I asked if he cooked Namkeen Karahi.

Arshad smiled from his spot behind the counter.

He knows the terms.

Indeed, Amjad’s Peshwari and Hector’s Namkeen are the same Curry.

Amjad explained that it must be eaten as soon as it’s ready, the Salt & Pepper Karahi cannot be stored. Given that he would have to prepare a kilo, at least, I think I know one or two who may well offer to accompany.

Associated with this, I thought I would further explore the limited use of the term – Karrah. As a Punjabi, he doesn’t use it. So I’ll stick to Cumin and Turmeric instead of Jeera and Haldi.

The Bill

£12.50

The Aftermath

Conversation with Arshad was getting underway when a taxi driver entered. His Punjabi was better than mine. So it goes.

And the Aloo Gobi (bottom right)? I saw a hefty bone then a Chicken bone and remained puzzled. I then concluded that the lumps had to be Chicken. Well, my focus was on the adjacent container. The Masala, however was something else. If/when I see this again, temptation may prevail. 

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Glasgow – DumPukht Lahori / Kinross – Arena – 30th Anniversary Tour

April 30, the Hector knows what he would like for his birthday. The choice of venue for the Birthday Curry has varied over the years. Today a long overdue return to DumPukht Lahori (39-41 Paisley Rd. West, Glasgow G51 1LG), whose advertised 16.30 opening time does not generally fit in with the Hector’s schedule.

Today was different, with breakfast at The Green Hotel, Kinross, where Prog Rock Band – Arena – were also to be found after last night’s gig at the same locus. Curry first.

Arriving just on 17.30, Aqeel, Mein Host, had yet to open the new doorway. Seeing Marg and Hector outside, this was quickly rectified. Having opened an alternative entrance, the main door are has permitted another table and six seats to be installed. Hopefully this reflects an increase in the number of sit-in customers.

Aqeel asked for a few minutes to set up, his assistant arrived moments behind us.

The menu was duly provided as we took our seats at our customary table. As expected, prices have increased significantly since our list visit to DumPukht, eighteen months ago. Then, prices were unsustainably low, this evening our kilo of Lamb Lahori Karahi (£39.99) is at the top end of what one pays in this city. Very much a birthday treat then.

A kilo between two, quite ambitious these days, but with the car parked around the corner, any surplus could be taken home. Note, car parking on Portland Street is currently free. Hopefully, Curry-Heute has no readers in the council.

To accompany, Marg was sticking to her usual Roti (£1.50) and Hector the Til Nan (£2.50). A jug of tap water was the chosen tipple.

The assistant brought a Modest Salad and Raita, which are chargeable. The background Qawwali music was quite familiar: Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan. During our wait for the food to be prepared, I took the opperchancity to photograph the new layout.

Both Breads were served whole, always the preferred way. The Wholemeal Roti suited Marg. Somehow, she managed to eat the entire Roti then help out with the Til Naan. Firm and risen, the Naan had a rich topping of Sesame Seeds, these would add an extra and pronounced Flavour to the meal.

Lamb Lahori Karahi

Coriander, Ginger Strips and Green Chillies halved lengthways, topped a somewhat – wet – looking Karahi. Brown, with an Oily hue, the Masala was decidedly Shorva-esque, not what was expected. As would become apparent, the Oil content was distinctly minimal. Wot, no Oil? A healthy Karahi.

On taking our starting portions from the flat karahi, I was confident that we would finish all before us. There was clearly a lot of Bones here, every piece I took was on-the-bone. Marg’s deft ladling had secured pieces which were Meat only.

Sucky Bones and Ribs, confirmation that the increase in price was justified. Better cuts of Meat, and today, no sign of Offal attachments which had been a feature of DumPukht previously. There were, however, bits of Meat with fatty attachments, just a couple, not a problem.

Dipping the Naan in the Masala confirmed a good level of Spice and Seasoning. Marg would not make her frequent – It’s Spicy– comment, so well pitched. I bit the stem off one of the Green Chillies and ate the entire piece, my audience reacted with a slight shake of the head.

Flecks of Black Pepper were prominent in the Masala. In time, the Pepper absorbed by the Meat came through. The intensity of the Lamb’s own Flavour was noted. Soft Meat, minimal chewing, the tenderness was remarkable. Yet, such was the Bone content, every intake of Lamb had to be treated with care.

The second half of the meal was markedly different. Having mopped up the excess Masala, that which remained had taken on a more familiar Tomato consistency. There was a sense of it being more Creamy also. This could have been due to Raita on the dinner plate drifting towards the Masala.

Marg had placed her Bones in the bowl provided, I kept mine on my plate. Our different experiences are thus manifested. A lot of Bones, but such was the overall Flavour in this Karahi, forgivable. Sesame infused Salt & Pepper lingered long on the palate.

Marg had quite a few words to add:

I had managed to work up an appetite before our kilo of lamb on the bone, arrived sizzling hot. There was a variety of pieces on the bone as well a small cuts of meat with some fatty ends. I was not too sure of the quality, but after tasting the meat in my Roti, the overall flavour was strong and very enjoyable. The sauce was minimal in oil, but used the bread to gain the spicy, oily, coriander and ginger strips within the sauce. A rich taste which complemented the tender meat pieces around the bone. I picked out the bones and ate my whole Roti with the rich sauce and meat pieces.

The Salad consisted of onion, cucumber and tiny pieces of tomato with creamy Raita sauce to add. A lovely combination with the meat and a very enjoyable meal.

The Bill

£47.50

The Aftermath

There was discussion with Aqeel about opening times. He did point out that on Saturday and Sunday he opens in the morning for Nashta.

Puri, Nihari and Paya were quoted. The Hector would certainly trot on  past the Paya.


And so to the previous twenty four hours…

We arrived at The Green Hotel, Kinross, just after 16.00. This would allow time to investigate the Leven Brewery which was directly across from our allocated room window. Not so great.

We did spot Clive Nolan, co founder of Arena, and active keyboard player in Pendragon also, who of course appeared on Close To The Edge.

It feels like only three weeks ago since we had breakfast together on deck.

Clive admits to facial-recognition-blindness, so although always happy to chat, he needs a cue. Hector’s t-shirt was also a visual clue.

Catching up once more, and a continuation of our last conversation, having to learn all the Arena material again in such a short time had been a challenge. The band had played last night to a half empty room in these very premises. A show added late to the tour, and with Marg returning from Belgium, not considered. Now the promoter knows, but at least he is getting bands to Scotland albeit in Fife. Without a car, Kinross is impossible, staying over seemed the sensible thing to do after seeing Pendragon here on the eve of – The Plague.

With a prompt 20.00 start planned, and a 22.00 curfew imposed by the management, the original setlist would have to be curtailed. Being the 30th Anniversary Tour, the plan was to cover all ten studio albums of which Hector has nine.

The hotel staff advised that the bar in venue, Backstage at The Green, would open at 19.00. Coming down from our room at 18.45, to queue to get in, felt very much like being back on the Norwegian Gem. Marg wouldn’t let me attend the show in my slippers, however, but I did feel at home.

The venue was open already, only six people seated. Why not take the front row seats directly opposite the keyboards and John Mitchell’s guitar setup? On the floor beside the pedals was tonight’s setlist, two songs scored off due to the time restriction. A couple of people spotted what I was doing, and they too came down to take a photo.

Marg chatted with Susan, a prog guru, Marg couldn’t bluff as she can do with the breweries of Bamberg. A familiar face entered from the rear and greeted the few who had joined us.

There’s a solitary witness – was my greeting to Damian Wilson, current vocalist in Arena, who Hector saw twice way back in ’94 at The Marquee (London). The title of Landmarq’s first album and opening lyric to their second, was of course recognised.

That I saw him at The Marquee was down to The Science of Coincidence, sorry. Pendragon were playing The Marquee, Landmarq supported. It was the same story when I returned a few weeks later to see the recently reformed IQ on the – Ever – tour. Marg knows the music of Landmarq, it is played oft in the car. I also assured her that Damian is one of the finest singers she will ever see/hear live.

Associated with that, I asked about his collaborations with Rick Wakeman, also seen recently on Cruise To The Edge. I have few of Rick’s albums because I cannot stand the vocals. It has long been my theory, that the lyrics are set in impossible keys. In a roundabout way, Damian concurred.

Welcome To The Stage

With the setlist to hand, it was very much a case of which songs I would know better than others. The first two albums less so, even allowing for their inclusion on the first live album. There would have been an even greater level of familiarity had Covid not happened. Tickets for the postponed London show in 2020 were valid for the rearranged show in 2021. Sadly, the date didn’t suit.

Marg and Hector saw Arena perform all of The Visitor in Yorkshire back in 2018. Marg knows The Visitor by heart. John took centre stage, well as far as his lead would let him, for the instrumental Serenity, before the band launched into (Don’t Forget To) Breathe. Big smiles on my left.

Four songs would feature from their 2022, and latest studio album – The Theory of Molecular Inheritance. Marg has played this oft on drives to/from Aberdoom. She knows it well. There is a live album from 2023 – Lifian – which features Damian on vocals. This might appear in someone’s xmas stocking as Live & Life did back in 2004.

Here Damian was singing the Arena music he is most associated with. Though as Clive told in his between song – Arena Factoids – Damian could have been the singer in this band many years ago, on two occasions.

Having played the part of Jean Valjean in Les Miserables, Damian is stage experienced and can hold an audience. With a longer mike lead, he was able to pace up and down the central isle. He sang to us all, and to each of us individually, captivating.

Kylan Amos remains on Bass and still looks like John Jowitt, his predecessor, albeit, with hair. Behind the drum-kit, and obscured from my camera all night, remains Mick Pointer, founding member of Marillion. Whatever happened to them?

How many John Mitchell albums do I possess? Arena, Frost*, Kino, the collection keeps growing. Always serious, he has to remember which solo is in which song in which band – I reminded Marg. He did beam at the conclusion to one of the – Arena Factoids. Clive the M.C., he is set free with Arena. In Pendragon, it’s his school chum Nick Barrett who has the limelight.

There was a requested standing ovation between the final song and the encore. With no stage wings left or right, the band had nowhere to go. The ovation delivered, there was another spontaneous one at the end.

Bar profits – were mentioned in one – Factoid – as being the reason for the curfew. We did our bit. Clive approached me cola in hand, an honour, after the show, and asked if I had enjoyed the set. A – thank you – was duly delivered. We did discuss prog bands playing to hundreds in the UK and thousands across Europe. Clive reckons the Boerderij in Zoetermeer (Nederland) is his favourite venue. If the Hector is ever to get to see Mystery (Canada) it may well be there.

There had to be a photo with Damian, and indeed, so familiar were we becoming, he came over at breakfast this morning to bid us farewell.

I had suggested to Marg that she have him sing Happy Birthday at midnight, not to be.

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Glasgow – The Village – Dr. Hanane

Earlier in the year, Curryspondent John, suggested I should introduce myself to the young waitress at The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA). That, and a Lamb Desi Qorma (£14.95) were the objectives this afternoon before meeting up with – The Monday Club.

Today is the Monday between two Bank Holidays, it was quite a surprise to see The Village this full at 13.45. Two separate groups in double figures, plus other tables, would keep Hanane and the staff busy.

Should I call you Doctor? – I asked as Hanane served me at the window table.

If you wish.

I was then addressed as – Hector – so the young lady has been made aware of Curry-Heute. Today, Dr. Hanane makes her inaugural appearance, still masked,  nobody knows what she looks like otherwise.

The menu wasn’t really required, but it’s always worth checking the prices. The – Lamb – section wasn’t my focus of attention today but where was the Desi Qorma? Somehow, a blank page had been incorporated. This was quickly rectified.

Extra Desi, on-the-bone – was clarified, plus tap water. Spicy – was agreed. Still a risk, last year, Chef truly tested the Blogger.

I nearly forgot to add the Mushroom Rice (£3.95).

As I waited, so the restaurant emptied, were people going back to work? Have the Barclays staff finally discovered Curry in Nelson Street?

Mushroom Rice, always seen as the ideal accompaniment for a Desi Korma, is served here in just the right quantity. The Fresh Mushrooms maintain standards and provide a distraction from Meat & Masala. Today I could not manage the final grains. I was here an hour before I really would have preferred. However, if one is not in situ at the rendezvous for 15.00, the weekly abuse from the East End is missed.

Lamb Desi Qorma

Copious Ginger Strips topped the distinctive Masala. The Coriander may well have been cooked as it was stirred in. A heater was also provided, dining a la carte merited this. This meant I did not arrange all of the Meat on the Masala at the beginning.

Two whole, probably – dried – Chillies had been added. These were carefully set aside, the Hector was not falling for this. Yoghurt Flecks were visible in the Herb-strewn Masala, the study period was over, time to eat.

The Citrus blast was immediate, success. I may never understand why the Yoghurt creates this Flavour in a Desi Korma but not in other Curry/Karahi. I do know that this is a key part of why this is my favourite – Curry. For Karahi I go elsewhere.

The Spice Level was a bit testing, but nothing like the aforementioned. The Seasoning may have been a tad below the Hector idyll, but not so much to impinge on the overall enjoyment.

The Sucky Bones gave out their Marrow, adding even more Flavour to the meal. Quality Lamb, some pieces were not so giving, the majority were spot on, Spice infused, Flavours released. The Village is currently the only known source of this Festive Curry in Glasgow. Across Europe, one venue in Berlin, another in Lisboa. I hear them both calling.

I outstared the Red Chillies. The pleasure receptors assured me it was time to stop. The recreational yield had been maximised, the remaining grains of Rice would have tipped the balance. I could eat this every week. I used to.

The Bill

£18.90

The Aftermath

The stray Cumin Seed was released at 16.25.

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Glasgow – Yadgar – via Foodasia, House of Sher

This year, instead of the annual pukka dinner for the Glasgow members of her alma mater, Marg and her committee came up with the idea of a trip to the Burrell Collection, with lunch thereafter. Hector was willing to forego the customary Aberdeen Angus, soup and sandwiches were promised. Hector has been known to devour a sandwich or ten.

With a freezer needing re-stocked, and Marg away to hit hockey balls in Belgium tomorrow, the stop off at Foodasia, House of Sher, in Tradeston, would be complemented by a few favourite items from Yadgar (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP).

It could well have been forty years ago, to the day, since the Hector last set foot in the Burrell. Then I was not impressed by the contents, just the building. Ed, our guide today ensured we appreciated the major exhibits.

With Marg covering four diners, soup and sandwiches would have been fine. Instead, an over-priced, pretentious menu was on the table. The Hector refused to engage, a fruit scone was the compromise.

Foodasia could be renamed – Fantasia. Everything one can dream of is here, however, free parking is no more. The huge saving on Olive Oil more than covered this. 

For years I have been asking why UK restaurants charge so much for Fish Curry, whilst in Europe, Meat Curry costs more. For the price of 1kg of Lamb on-the-bone, today I could have purchased 4kg of Tilapia. One 2kg pack of frozen Fish sufficed. Watch out for Fish Curry appearing in the near future.

And don’t start me on Malabar Parotta, how does 20p per Paratha become £4.00+ in a restaurant?

No such issues at Yadgar where £22.00 bought all this: four Meat Samosas, six Chapli Kebab, one portion Fish Pakora, one portion of Aloo Gobi.

Unbelievably, Samosas have not appeared in these pages before, nor has a Chapli Sandwich. Reheated in the air fryer, the Texture of the pastry was maintained. The Spice Level surprised. Meat, Potato, Peas, two is definitely better than one.

The air fryer was also used to reheat the Fish Pakora, again, the batter survived. The Chilli Sauce was microwaved, such a treat to have this Hot Sauce with Fish Pakora.

Martin, who appears occasionally in these pages, asked if I have to review every Curry. Well, yes, else what’s the point? Also, the tallies are crucial for recording the visits. Today, however, no review, Samosas aside, I had everything bought today at Yadgar last week, so there’s the review.

Chapli Kebab, Aloo Gobi, Malabar Parotta

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Glasgow – Shahi Mahal – Bateera Day!

Last month, Zahir, Mein Host at Shahi Mahal (452 Cathcart Rd., Govanhill, Glasgow G40 7B2) and Hector were discussing the Daily Specials. After Ramadan, Bateera (£7.50) would be available once again on Mondays. Today, a holiday Monday, the Hector set out to verify.

Entering at 13.10, Zahir was on the phone taking a complex Order. He interrupted the call to acknowledge my entrance and my speculative cry of – Bateera?

One of four containers in the glass counter was duly removed.

Bateera in Shorva! – was his positive response.

The phone-call continued, this gave me time to consider a Bread accompaniment. Why have a Roti (£1.00) when one can have a Nan (£1.25) for a few pennies more? The Glasgow Southside Curry Cafes, the land of affordability and sensibility, as the Hector looks back two Blog entries to Bombay Darbar (Miami FL).

I took a seat in the booth where the table mysteriously looks truncated. The time it took the kitchen to reheat the Curry and prepare a Naan, was minimal. Zahir brought the goodies on a tray.

Salad and Raita are always part of the meal at Shahi Mahal, and one pays for these. Empty plates were brought, for the bones.

The splendidly huge Naan, served whole, was approaching – Rogni – in style. With multiple perforations to prevent it rising, well fired, burnt blisters just about forming.

I warned Zahir that I would do well to manage half. This he misunderstood, took the Naan away and cut it. The two – quarters – I might manage.

Bateera

Two – Birds – sat in the steaming hot Shorva. Coriander Leaves and Stems would add that bit extra. What I had seen in the original plastic container appeared to have swelled in portion size.

Bateera has featured semi-regularly in these pages, a Wednesday treat at Kabana Cheetham Hill (Manchester). Always a pair, one would be insulting, three too many. The legs and torsos were separated, I cheekily rearranged the layout.

Always a Shorva, so the spoon would be put to good use. Prior to this, a dipping fest. Pieces of Naan were duly immersed, the Spice Level of the Shorva took me a bit by surprise. The Seasoning was a la Hector. This was quite a Shorva.

Zahir asked if I was familiar with – Shorva.

I assured him I was used to having it with Kofta Anda.

I related to Zahir that I first had Bateera on my first visit to Sheerin Palace back in 2010. Sheerin Palace no longer serve Bateera. It is possible that Zahir had cooked it, or even served me. Bird – was how this poultry was described, before establishing that Bateera is Quail, a word neither of us used today. Zahir told me he first presented Bateera at Karahi Palace back in 2004. Having met him there subsequently as a visitor, I never knew he had worked there. Back then, the Hector had yet to discover the adjacent – Village – never mind – Karahi Palace – which, sadly,  has well and truly gone.

A Bullet Chilli cut lengthways, was unearthed in the Salad. I added the two halves to the Shorva then ate one. Oh, why did I do that?

Having retreated to the kitchen, Zahir returned with a glass of Natural Lassi. A different experience for the Hector who is used to Mango Lassi. I would have this for – Dessert.

So taken was I with the Shorva, Naan and Bateera Legs, the torsos almost became an afterthought. The spoon halved the Bird, the carcass soon revealed. Not a lot of eating here, a fraction of what one would have in a Chicken Curry. However, this was not Chicken Curry. Bateera absorbs, the Meat is way more porous than its larger counterpart. Gamey in Flavour, and dipped back in the Shorva, even more flavoursome.

Cinnamon, I had already recorded, then a second distinctive Spice was recognised – Anise.

Nibbling at the Salad, dipping the Naan, fiddling with the footery Bird, the antithesis of the fayre enjoyed a few days back at Yadgar. Hector cannot live by Karahi alone.

With the bones sucked dry, the Soup supped, and as much Bread as could be accommodated taken on board, the appetite was sated. A young lady cleared the table. Time for Dessert.

The Lassi turned out to be Sweeter than anticipated, but still close to drinking Yoghurt. As much as I love Mango Lassi, having it with or after Curry surely counters the Flavours of the Spice? Relief for those who may require it, unnecessary otherwise, Plain Lassi may actually complement Spice.

For Hector this was the end, but nearly not so. Zahir appeared at the table with a modest plate of Lamb Chops Aloo, a deluxe Aloo Gosht. I assumed he was offering this for me to sample, but no way could I tackle it. Fortunately the food was not wasted, Zahir sat in the next booth and had this for lunch.

The Bill

£13.00

The Aftermath

There was mention of Karahi next Monday, tempting.

Apart from the persistent rain, did anything else happen today?

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Glasgow – Yadgar – Simply The Best

Today’s visit to Yadgar (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) was conceived long before the recent trip across The Pond for – Cruise To The Edge. Jim and/or David decided we were long overdue a meat-fest. The title of today’s trip was also conceived before the events later in the day, where highly suspicious/incompetent refereeing, saw the end of this year’s run in Europe for – The Famous.

Simply The Best – remains apposite for Yadgar, any new US readers in particular, shall discover why the Hector is disparaging about the Mainstream. Yadgar serves Punjabi Cuisine, as it is meant to be served, prepared honourably, from scratch, no shortcuts.

The rendezvous was 14.15, fifteen minutes after opening. If this was earlier, there would be more visits. Dr. Stan called in late, his bus was being delayed. Jim and David were waiting outside in the car as Hector walked along Calder Street, Howard was not too far away.

Shkoor, Mein Host, directed me to the window tables, Sajad offered to put on the heater under the bench sets, Please!

Are you well – enquired Shkoor.

I’m cold, I don’t know how people can live in this climate was Hector’s response. 28ºC to 12ºC is quite a drop.

We watched the remaining staff arrive, it is a long time since Chef Arshad has been seen, Naveed too. We were waiting for The Good Doctor, drinks were sorted, Mango Rubicon for all, the first of two rounds.

The Dips were brought first, Raita and the heated Chili Sauce. Heat, appreciated. The Salad was enough for five to pretend we were playing the game.

Shkoor questioned Hector’s Salad intake.

Not the green bits.

Chana Masala

Chana, closer to Masala than Chat, was next to arrive. Warm rather than hot, this was the Starter least enthused over. The lack of Seasoning was its limitation. Even after the five had taken a Soupçon, an appreciable quantity remained after the real stuff had been taken care of. The chaps eventually scooped up the remnants. It quickly became apparent that Dr. Stan, in juggernaut mode, would handle every scrap.

A Chicken Curry featuring Shorva was placed before us. This puzzled, not our style. It was quickly removed, wrong table. Phew. The Hector having to review a Chicken Curry at Yadgar? Who knows, this might have been wonderful.

Chapli Kebab, Fish Pakora and Seekh Kebab are the Big Big Train of Starters at Yadgar. The quantity had been well judged, enough to permit enjoyment of the main event. Pre-Koronawirus, we could indulge way more, we were indulged. Hector’s plateful was manageable. 

Chapli Kebab

The well-Seasoned, well-Spiced Chapli was as good as it gets, stunning in fact. OK, it is, in effect, a Chicken Burger, but let’s not go there. Chapli is why the Hector tends to come to Yadgar and enjoy this with Fish Pakora and a Vegetable Curry. Who needs Goshat Karahi? 

Fish Pakora

The Fish Pakora was as delightful as ever. Quality Haddock in a Spicy batter. More-ish. Had we asked for more, more would have arrived. We had to manage all we had.

Seekh Kebab

The plate of Seekh Kebab had a lighter one on top. This was definitely Chicken leaving one to conclude the darker ones could have been Lamb. No prizes for guessing which version arrived on Hector’s plate. Dr. Stan’s go-to Starter, enjoyed by all, though not as Spicy as the Chapli.

Marg is bringing Hector across the river next week for lunch at The Burrell, already a plan is being formed to liberate a mass of Chapli Kebab etc.

In time, everything except some green bits of Salad was scoffed. QED.

The table cleared, Shkoor offered a fifteen minute break before the main event. A Vegetable Curry is always a welcomed addition to the Order. Shkoor listed today’s options, Hector jumped at Aloo Gobi. Chapattis were a given.

Shkoor then promptly left the premises, all was set.

The chaps at the Takeaway counter were being kept busy. I was amazed at how many customers there were mid afternoon. What was also pleasing was the number of sit-in diners. All sorts, those who know this is where the food is at, and are catching on that mid-afternoon is an ideal time to eat.

Two kilos of Goshat Karahi (£30.00) was the pre-order, on-the-bone. There are only seven venues in Glasgow where this glorious creation can be secured in such a manner. Each of course has their own interpretation, Yadgar’s has long been held as #1. In fifteen years of Curry-Heute, nobody has contradicted this.

Goshat Karahi

Jim mentioned a friend, not present, who would love this. David reckoned the Oil might be an issue. The separating Oil is all part of the experience. With minimal Masala, this takes – Curry – to a different dimension. We took it as read that the Meat would be giving back way more Flavour than a Mainstream Curry House.

I noted the presence of Tomato Skins in the Masala Mash, so much for the online recipes which have one spend time trying to remove them.

Dr. Stan and Hector had one karahi set before us, the adjacent three sharing the other. I made a point of stating that what lay between Dr. Stan and I was also theirs, Dr. Stan and Hector should not manage the kilo. Worryingly, the contents of the adjacent karahi did not appear to be diminishing.

Don’t hold back, get stuck in.

Why am I called – Hector?

Our karahi had a mix Lamb Chops and boneless Lamb. The Sucky Bones were along the table. Lamb Chops, not the Tandoori version, cooked for Curry, a treat. Soft, succulent Meat, yet chewing required. The pleasure I had missed having had Vegetable Curry, various, for four consecutive days on Cruise To The Edge.

Having eaten my plateful, two more Lamb Chops were calling, I just managed to squeeze them in. Meanwhile, Dr. Stan was wiping the karahi with pieces of Chapatti. In time, and with help from along the table, we were left with a shiny karahi.

Five substantial Chapattis had been served. I took but a scrap being here for Curry, not Bread.

There are still other pleasures to describe. Our requested Aloo Gobi was complemented by a portion of Aloo Baingan which was well received on our post – Round The World in 80 Days – feast last June. There, I managed to mention both Grand Trips in one Curry Blog.

Aloo Baingan

Aubergine and Potato in a Masala Mash, here the mandatory Oil was also separating. I’ll keep the Potato review for a moment, the mushy Eggplant was the focal point of this Dish. I was certain that I was getting Citrus from this, but on consulting my fellow diners, there was no – harrumph. So it goes.

Aloo Gobi

Similar in appearance to the Baingan, here, Cauliflower accompanied the Potato. The Cauliflower was on the soft side of firm. Another explosion of Flavour on the palate, both the distinctive Flavour of Cauliflower pieces then the micro-bits mixed in with the Masala.

The Potato defied belief. Totally saturated. Whilst the Goshat Karahi had the unique – Yadgar Taste – here the Potato seemed to have even more. Studying Hector’s plate should reveal as much Potato as Meat. I’ve been here oft, oftentimes alone, and it’s the daily rotation of Vegetable Curry which is the preferred option. The humble Potato has it.

Why am I serving plain – Mash – at home?

Apart from Dr. Stan who was still ploughing  his way, we were replete. In time, what looked as though it could become Takeaway, was divvied out. Once upon a time, the Order would have been three kilos between six, two between five, ample.

If people are truly content having second rate Curry then that’s their choice. With Yadgar, and to be fair, six other Glasgow venues all listed in Glasgow’s Top Rated, the difference in what is served is night and day.

The chaps offered a few words:

Jim – Yadgar, absolutely fantastic as usual. The amount of flavour packed into the Lamb is amazing. Pity the chef won’t divulge the secret.

Dr. Stan – Excellent meal with tasty kebab and (fish) pakora starters followed by juicy lamb chops cooked with a sublime blend of spices.

Howard – The headline is – Improving on Perfection.

Every trip to Yadgar as a sit in customer is a joy. Astonishingly they managed to make today’s visit even better. First there were the starters. The seekh kebabs, both chicken and lamb, were superb, flavoursome, soft and melt in the mouth. The chickpeas were less successful. Along with the main dish were two wonderful sides comprising cauliflower and potatoes and an aubergine dish. Chapattis completed the meal. The lamb was full of flavour something other places can’t do. The oil at the bottom was just as special and only my heart stopped me having more. And as Hector has said before the vegetable dishes had the special Yadgar imprint. Superb service generous portions and a stunning meal. Indeed, perfection plus.

Shkoor texted to check all was well.

Average Karahi, average service – was the deliberately misleading reply.

Sorry, that’s the Miami place... I clarified.

The Bill

£100.00 Simples.

The Aftermath

The stray Cumin Seed dislodged itself at 17.24.

I advised Shkoor – We’ll come back at midnight for Dessert.

Almost a perfect day, Referee!!!

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Miami FL – Bombay Darbar – Coconut Grove

Coconut Grove is closed for renovation, please use the free shuttle from Douglas Road – has been announced on every train leaving every Metro station during our days in Miami FL, regardless of direction of travel. It was somewhat ironic therefore when two major sources claimed that Bombay Darbar (2901 Florida Ave., Miami, FL 33133, USA) in Coconut Grove was the outstanding place in Miami for Curry.

Setting off from Brickell just after noon we took the Orange/Green Line south to Douglas Road then walked through a residential area to Downtown Coconut Grove. This was surely quicker than all the faffing about, and Google were the only peeps in Miami who did not appear to register the ongoing disruption.  The free Trolley took us back.

Arriving at Bombay Darbar, in this pleasant Miami suburb, at 13.00, we were offered a table in the covered terrace where most diners were sat, or inside. After the walk, cooling down was necessary. Being a sweaty blob on eating a Vindaloo is fine, not so wonderful to present in such a manner.

A litre bottle of Sparkling Water ($7.50) was quickly procured.

The Thali lunch menu was quickly dismissed, if I’m going to review a Curry, let’s have the full Bhuna.

Marg had spotted a sign outside for Tandoori Salmon Salad, this was right up her street, a variation of her oft consumed Tuna Salad.

Other than Lamb Chops Masala ($34.95), there was no sign of Meat served on-the-bone. No Goat Curry either which tends to be served this way across the USA. This would be my first Lamb in ages, having had nothing but Vegetable Curry aboard the Norwegian Gem.

The description of the Lamb Kadhai ($22.95) was favourable, no offending Capsicum mentioned. I would take advice from the group of waiters who were highly visible when not required. Having declared my intention of having Lamb Curry, I asked –

Do the terms Desi or Apna mean anything to you?

This raised a smile.

I was directed to Lamb Roganjosh ($22.95) and Lamb Chops Masala as their – most popular – offerings.

Medium to hot was agreed for the Rogan Josh. With inclusive Basmati, there was no need to discuss the Bread options. However, I shall highlight the price of a Tandoori Roti ($3.95), so not just in Aberdoom.

I had just ordered possibly the most popular Curry in Miami’s most popular Curry House. Marg was quick to point out that – most popular – hadn’t actually answered my question.

Two halves of a Poppadom, the preferrred type with embedded Cumin Seeds, a Salsa, and what I took to be the standard Capsicum Mash, were presented. I nibbled. The Mash was Sweet, the Salsa a pleasant change.

Pink, the reader may notice a pink hue in most of the photos, such was the lighting. Using flash would have distorted the ambience. Large premises, table cloths aplenty, as Mainstream a Curry House in appearance as one might encounter. A restaurant, definitely not a Cafe. Had I found the latter, I would have been there for what is my only remaining  opperchancity for Curry in Miami. There was of course Akash Miami Beach, which is not in Miami, before Cruise To The Edge.

Grilled Salmon Salad

What a bowlful! Marg’s intended snack was way more than she had imagined. We are in – America! – where people often – box – their leftovers for Takeaway.

The piece of Naan was not in the photo displayed outside, a bonus. I liked the blisters on the Naan, decent looking Bread, but none crossed the table. Needless to say, Marg ate the lot:

A large piece of salmon was the highlight of the dish. Had a small piece of cold Naan bread with garlic. Plenty of different green leaves made up the salad with flakes of almonds, cranberries, crumbled goats cheese on the top. Plenty of cucumber with chopped, small tomatoes. A big chew, but very enjoyable.

Now we know why the Hector was not offered any Bread. Curry aside, try ordering anything in the USA which does not come with Cheese.

Lamb Rogan Josh

The standard sized handi had Meat protruding through the blended, Shorva-esque, Masala. A Soupy Curry with Ginger Strips atop, and no sign of Fresh Herbs.

The Rice, served in a matching quantity, was a sensibly sized portion, manageable. On transferring to the plate I was pleased to see Cumin Seeds and a whole Green Cardamom. If there was also Whole Spice in the Masala then this Curry’s impression would be greatly enhanced. Alas no.

Prepare for more Mainstream Curry, Hector.

The large pieces of Lamb reached a count of double figures. A knife would have to be employed to manage these, a worthy portion of Meat.

The Spice Level impressed, a decent kick, never going to test, but as asked for. The Seasoning stood out by its absence. This was not going to be a – Karrah! – experience.

The Tender Lamb required an appropriate amount of chewing,  not – super-soft then. Other than its own Meatiness, the Lamb was giving nothing back. The Curry-Heute checklist now complete, this Curry was set firmly in the Mainstream category.

The Flavour from the Masala was oh-so familiar. My suspicions at  Akash Miami Beach shall never be proven, nor those aboard the Norwegian Gem, but in the latter, way more effort had been applied to disguise the probability that there and here, the base Spices came from a packet of – Prepared Spice Boxes. Whether they be from MDH/Shan/Lazzat, all have a telltale packet taste. Had any waiter approached us whilst we ate, there might have been discussion, but no.

Athena (Hellas) and Lisboa (Portugal) aside, I have to accept that in Continental Europe, whilst I tend to enjoy nearly every Curry, the vast majority of venues, are in the second division compared to what is served across the UK. Today’s Curry could only be considered to be at the lower level. The big question, however, in what way was today’s Curry a Rogan Josh?

There are two accepted styles of Rogan Josh. The version I consider to be traditional is the Tomato-rich, usually with actual pieces visible. Today, this was not the case. The alternative has a significant Cream presence, some argue this predates the – Tomato – version, Curry-Heute does not recognize that. Today’s Curry was not in this style either,  just a standard Curry, no more. Not distinctive. 

I have had significantly better Curry in the USA. If this is the best Miami has to offer, so be it. We’re back to the classic scenario of Chef/Proprietor serving up what they think the customer can manage, therefore that is what they want, instead of the authentic fayre as served in the Indian Subcontinent. And Glasgow’s Southside – where I’m headed soonest.

The Bill

$52.22 which quickly became $60.92 (£46.95).

The tip scale here was favourably lower than the 18-20-22 percentage options which prevail in this land.

Beware: many venues add a 20% service charge, then finesse a tip on top.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was, in time, given to one of the many rushing waiters who had once again all disappeared. Accepted politely, there was little further discourse.

No rapport – as Marg observed, then proffered – I’m doing my job. 

2025 Menu

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Cruise To The Edge + Fifteen Years of Curry-Heute

Today is the fifteenth anniversary of the launch of Curry-Heute, Marg had a card commissioned  to commemorate the date. I don’t know who the freeloaders are.

Ten of those years have been spent in retirement, giving the opperchancity to travel as is written about occasionally in the sister Blog – Bier-Traveller.com. A significant proportion of this trip probably belongs in Bier-Traveller, not that the destinations reached, or the Bier consumed, merit much reporting. Marg and Hector are currently at anchor off Great Stirrup Cay in the Berry Islands, part of The Bahamas. This five day cruise is all about the music, favourite bands, new discoveries, rubbing shoulders with celebrities, and making new friends. Graham and Susan shall be mentioned as and when. What I wasn’t expecting was the ever rotating three Curry options in the Garden Cafe buffet, where we consequently have eaten most of our meals.

It is unusual in Curry-Heute to post at the end of a trip therefore not providing the ongoing coverage, however, the Hector has been almost off-grid for five days. Maritime data rates are abominable, the limited wi-fi access offered by Norwegian Cruise Lines appeared also to be prohibitive, but needs must. Dominican Republic is within EE Zone 1 coverage so there was a day of respite. There simply hasn’t been time to write, the music schedule has been intense. We have only been in our cabin, sorry – State Room – to sleep.

On Thursday, our third day in Miami, there was a pre-Cruise show at Magic Casino. We missed Kyros (UK), but would see them onboard, and caught the end of David Cross Band (UK).

David Cross Band

David Cross, violinist, was once a member of King Crimson (UK).

Neal Morse & The Resonance

The headline act – Neal Morse & The Resonance (USA) – was more than worth the very modest admission price. Hector had breakfast adjacent to Neal Morse in Rotherham back in the late 1990s when Spock’s Beard (USA) played their first ever UK gig at the Classic Rock Society. Howard, Marg and Hector saw the current line-up of Spock’s Beard last year in Glasgow, one Morse brother maintains.

Morse & Co performed two epics, both of which appear on the new album – No Hill For a Climber. That’s the first of a few CDs on order.

When a keyboard lost its programming mid set, the band members jammed to break the silence. As the rectifying took some time, this evolved into the covering of ACDC songs. Wee boys’ music, no keyboards required. As Neal said from the stage – I hope you’re videoing this, it’ll never be done again. 


Day 1, departure from Miami

Boarding a cruise liner turned out to be no different than the typical airport experience, and people slag off budget airlines when they feel as if they are treated like cattle.

Once boarded, there was a bit of hanging around the Atrium on Deck 7, set up to be a late night venue, before we could enter our cabin. Clive Nolan (Pendragon, UK) was never more than a few metres away. Time to try out the SLR which is making a rare outing. Nope, not good enough to publish.

Eventually, it was announced that lunch was ready. Up to the Garden Cafe on Deck 11.

As The Friends of Hector are well aware, boats are not my thing. Once upon a time, the first wave outside of Port Ellen (Islay) harbour had me leaning over the side. How much I would eat in the coming days was therefore an unknown. With a doom laden attitude, the Buffet was approached. A Burger, well why not, I’m in – America (sic). Then I spotted the – Asian Section. The Paneer was way too risky, even on dry land. For Hector, Cheese and heat is not a good combination. Daal and Gajar Mutter would do nicely.

The Daal confirmed the efficacy of Chef’s skills, the Peas and Carrots blew me away. The latter had a kick and an impressive depth of Flavour. I knew already that this trip belonged in Curry-Heute.

Sat at a table for four, a couple asked if they could join us. Marg and I were not wearing any band regalia, Graham was sporting a Pendragon t-shirt. It was quickly established that Graham, Susan, Marg and Hector had been in each other’s company before at the Pendragon VIP Weekend in Morecambe back in 2023, the last time we saw the band perform.

Magic Pie

Having checked-in at our muster point we continued our tour of the ship. Magic Pie (Norge) had kicked off the music in the main Stardust Theatre on Decks 6/7. We stood with a group on one of the two viewing platforms at the upper rear of the theatre. The SLR was not coping at this distance.  I have one Magic Pie album – The Suffering Joy –  played oft, yet today I had totally forgotten this.  Today’s music, too fast and unemotional for the Hector. Back to Deck 11 then up the outside stairs to Deck 12. From here, we had an excellent view of the Pool Stage on Deck 11.

Saga

The long established Saga (Canada) by whom the Hector had some albums on tape before a recent clear out, would be the – sail away – band. Tales were told of founding member  Jim Crichton being wheeled on to the ship. This was hard to believe given his jumping around the stage, but we too would later see him wheeled from the dining room.

From our vantage point, we witnessed first the sound check, the performance and the changing Miami skyline as we did in fact – sail away.

Ripples never look back.

Every band would perform twice, the headliners in the Stardust Theatre only, all others typically one turn there and one at the Pool Stage, as would be the case with Saga. The headliners have coloured slots, we are green and have pre-allocated seats for the duration.

Rick Wakeman

Rick Wakeman, former member of The Strawbs (UK) and Yes (UK) at 18.00, was our first big act. He came on stage promptly. Our seats were second row balcony, stage left, no complaints here. One could have paid less for a restricted view, no way, Pedro.

Extracts from The Six Wives of Henry VIII and King Arthur were followed by two well known Beatles Band songs. Fingerless gloves were the only signs that Mr. Wakeman, approaching 80, is getting on in years. Stories aplenty, linked the pieces. We have all seen him on TV, Grumpy Old Men, Countdown etc., a raconteur. This was the third time Marg has seen Rick, the first time with Yes in 2004. For Hector, the tally is nine.

Back up the Garden Cafe on Deck 11, more food, the pour your own ice-cream was too much to resist, especially with one’s name on the machine.

Down once more to the Stardust Theatre for 20.30 and Jazz Sabbath. Eh?

Jazz Sabbath

Adam Wakeman, yes, son of Rick, aka Milton Keanes, keep up, presented this evening as a trad jazz trio playing – the original – versions of early Black Sabbath songs. Milton claims to have written the music in the late 1960s, went into a coma, and on recovering, discovered that – they – had stolen his material and made £millions.

For those who know the early Sabbath catalogue, this was fun, and Adam is certainly the son of his father. When the unknown double bass player was let loose, a wee bit of Jaco Pastorius (Weather Report) was sneaked in, yay. Following on from the earlier show, this was again cabaret, great entertainment.

A return to the Pool Stage and Kyros (UK) at 22.00. This time we managed to secure seats directly in front of stage, a chance to test the SLR outdoors at night.

Kyros

Kyros, formerly Synaesthesia, are fronted by keyboard player and vocalist Shelby Logan Wane with her distinctive half white / half black hairdo.

For me, it was she who spoiled the show, too many vocals. For those who take in lyrics, maybe there was a message to be imparted, for Hector, it was the guitar breaks of Joey Frevola (USA) which made the set.

Today, every act was allocated an hour in which to perform their set, no more. At 23.00, back down on Deck 8 in the bar overlooking the Atrium stage, it was declared to be – Bier o’clock. A long day.


Day 2, a Saturday at sea

Keeping track of the days by name was going to be difficult. The day numbers are more important.

D’Virgilio, Morse, Jennings

D’Virgilio, Morse, Jennings, the Pool Stage at noon, would kick things off.

Nick D’Virgilio (USA), singer, drummer, multi-instrumentalist, I have seen with Spock’s Beard then also Big Big Train (UK) with Marg a couple of years back in Edinburgh. Marg did not recognise that the Neal Morse on stage today was the same chap she had seen two nights previously. Ross Jennings is the lead vocalist in Haken (UK), not a band that floats my boat, but yes, he can sing.

The three piece was supplemented by further musicians to make up a band, though the three chaps alone, front of stage, was much more intimate. Neal Morse was a late addition to the line up, no Leprous, so this was his moment on the ship. The others had their respective bands.

With Morse and D’Virgilio aboard, there had to be a rendition of Spock’s Beard’s – June. Nobody was disappointed. Alberto Bravin (Big Big Train, PFM, Italia) joined the stage also.

It was lunchtime, and breakfast had been huge. Still, the Curry was calling. Again, the Paneer was passed by, Rajma and Aloo Jeera, not visually appetising, but wait.

Rajma

Kidney Beans are seen occasionally at Sheerin Palace (Glasgow), now I may be tempted to have them there. This was a superb Curry. The dark Masala was rich in the Flavours of South India. Big Spice, well Seasoned and Curry Leaves present, there was more than enough here to excite. There was a hint of packet-spice mix coming through, such was the level of excitement, all was forgiven.

Aloo Jeera

Cumin Seeds, something to search for in the old gnashers later. The soft Potatoes were part of a thick Masala Mash. A mellow level of Spice after the Rajma, already I have deduced that there is a Curry with a kick being served, and a tame one. The Aloo Jeera complemented the Rajma.

Two days on a ship and the Hector is still eating. This was totally unexpected, even the slightest roll can set the Hector off. The Norwegian Gem does not appear to roll, well in these seas and at this time of year.

Pure Reason Revolution

Pure Reason Revolution (UK) were on the Pool Stage at 15.00. Once again we secured great seats directly in the front of the stage. I purchased their debut double CD, – The Dark Third – some months back to give them a go prior to the cruise. A rewarding purchase and this young British Prog band with a Dutch guitarist certainly impressed live.

No bass player, Jon Courtney, the lead vocalist and second guitar, was taking care of this via the keyboard he otherwise barely touched. Chloë Alper, once a member of James (UK) was in Pure Reason Revolution until the recording of last year’s album – Coming Up to Consciousness. Her replacement, Annicke Shireen, also from Nederland, on keyboards and vocals, had a much more significant presence than was demonstrated last night by SLB in Kyros.

The Bright Ambassadors of Morning, from The Dark Third was their epic ending. Impressive, and we have the opperchancity to see them again.

Beardfish

Beardfish (Sverige) had started their set at the Spinnaker at 15.45. Located on – 12 forward, we managed to take in the final minutes. Such was their popularity, it was standing room only at the back. Restricted view, I could only see two members. Song For Beating Hearts – had been purchased as a taster, a fine album. The sounds being created on stage did not match this, too harsh again, not enough – space.

With half of the ship ticketed to see Steve Hackett, there was time to fill. Yes Songs, the movie, was being shown at the Atrium at 18.00. There was little more than a handful of like-minded people. This gave Marg the opperchancity to see/hear Rick Wakeman play the same Henry VIII extracts but fifty years ago. More importantly – Close To The Edge – finally explained the naming of this very cruise.

The projection was poor, the sound too low, it filled an hour and a bit until it was time to back up-top for more – Curry!

Dum Aloo and Bhindi Masala, more vegetables. Vegetable Rice with the Flavours of east of India, and an Indian Salad were the plate fillers.

Dum Aloo

This was the tame one. The earthy flavours from the Potato impressed. There was a slight Sweetness from the Masala.

Bhindi Masala

OK, the Okra had been sat out too long and was mush. Catering for the masses, inevitable. The Masala was wonderful. The Seasoning was right up there, a sense of Yoghurt added a slight Creaminess. Slight.

Three meals a day, this is not how the Hector operates at home. I have decided to limit my ice-cream to twice a day.

IQ (UK), Pendragon (UK) and Riverside (Polska) is why the Hector is sailing off the US coastline, tonight we would see two of these three.

IQ

Arriving at the Pool Stage a good half hour early, there were no empty seats. We found a space on what would otherwise be the actual pool edge. IQ were due on at 21.00, the sound check had to be done with the audience present, the wind was howling. Don’t listen to this – advised Mike Holmes, guitar.

The chat around us revealed that many knew of IQ but had never seen them live. This was IQ‘s first performance on Cruise To The Edge. Under the stars, who would have thought?

Marg and Hector last saw IQ in February of this year at The Met (Bury). It is written. Tonight, no epics, keep it tight, no stories either. One hour is not a long time in the World of Prog. Tonight IQ had a sixth member, the wind. Every microphone was picking up the constant blasts and transforming them into deep growls. No doubt footage of this show will appear in the usual places. Thanks to Rob Aubrey on the mixing desk for publishing the set-list straight after the show.

Frequency, Sacred Sound, Subterranea, Guiding Light, The Wake, The Darkest Hour, Ten Million Demons.

Seeing one of your favourite bands is one thing. Seeing another fifteen minutes later is something else. Riverside were starting at 22.15 in the Stardust Theatre, the green badge holders getting to see them first. This means there’s no guarantee of seeing them twice.

Riverside

It was tres cool knowing exactly where we were sitting. Bon soir – to the French couple to my left. They had recently been to Glasgow to see Fish’s final show. Riverside are only performing twice this year, on this cruise, then that’s it for 2025. Mariusz Duda, bass, lead vocals, composer, genius, was not in a good place for the first half of the set. His usual aura was missing, minimal interaction. OK, getting through the songs is one thing, was it the audience? Playing to a crowd of pensioners must be strange. Riverside have worked their way up the bill on CTTE, they know the score.

The set was a mix of older material, including two longer songs, the latest album ID Entity, and as usual, nothing from from the pre-Covid – Wasteland. I know not why they stopped playing songs from what is decidedly their best album.

Second Life Syndrome, Out Of Myself, Hyperactive, Egoist Hedonist, Big Tech Brother, Friend Or Foe?, Escalator Shrine, The Curtain Falls.

The music carried them through, what an amazing evening. At 23.15, it was declared to be – Bier o’clock. The late night Prog Karaoke was underway in the Atrium. People should be told that they cannot sing, but when you turn up with your own Rickenbacker bass and insist on murdering – Rush – ah well.


Day 3, the Dominican Republic, tick.

There was a quick breakfast before going ashore. Two chaps were standing at the Buffet having a chat, Peter Nickolls (IQ) and Nick Barrett (Pendragon).  The Hector captured the moment.

Wot, no beans?

Guess who left their Dollars in our State Room safe? With bands starting at 14.15, it was still a late morning embarkation. I’ll leave Dominican Republic for Bier-Traveller, not that any Bier was consumed. Suffice to say that once we escaped from the plastic port, Puerto Plata reminded my of my fist sail through these waters. Santos (Brasil) had this colonial charm back in 1969, I bet it’s not like this any more.

Before music comes lunch, more Curry! Congratulations to all for getting this far.

Garlic Rice, Daal Palak, and Mixed Vegetables came from the Indian side of the Asian Section. From the lands east, Sweet & Sour Prawns.

The Hector has written oft of his disdain for those who order Prawn Curry. A waste of good Prawns, a waste of money. When they are presented in a near limitless scenario, and I include a further sample photo from another section, what is the fuss? Why charge extra? Anyway, I did not abuse the sacred Prawn.

Daal Palak

Earthy Flavours, great Seasoning, who remembers Green Curry from the 1960s? This proved to be the Spicy option. An Old-fashioned Curry.

Mixed Vegetables

Potato, Carrot and Aubergine were in the mix. Again, another Masala to celebrate. The Seasoning here was tempered by Sweetness from the Carrots. Carrots, I know there’s something going on with their inclusion in a Curry. One day I’ll get to the root of it.

Marg spotted that her all time Prog hero: Clive Nolan,  keyboard player for Pendragon, also composer for Arena, was at the adjacent table on the poop deck.  Not for the first time, their photo together.

For the record, dinner was not Curry. I realised I hadn’t eaten Meat for two days. There was a whole roasted pig with my name on it.

*

Big Big Train

Big Big Train, the green badge show in the Stardust Theatre at 14.15. A British band, but like Trigger’s broom, so many changes in personnel, are they the same band? Gregory Spawton on bass, to the best of my understanding, is the only surviving founding member. The multi-talented vocalist and musician, Alberto Bravin (Italia) first appeared in these pages back in 2018 when Steve and Hector went to Brescia to see PFM.

Marg and Hector saw Big Big Train with this line-up in Edinburgh thereafter. Nick D’Virgilio of Spock’s Beard fame has also found his way into the band. Then add Rikard Sjöblom, Beardfish’s guitarist, and we have a multinational band. As they record new material, then surely what was BBT is becoming lost?

After a quick ice-cream, out to the Pool Stage, with Pendragon due on at 16.30, we were taking no chances.

Pendragon

Again, great seats. Indigo (Pure) may well be Pendragon’s most accomplished song, part of this was the warm up, then they soon launched the set. With Clive Nolan on keyboards, hidden under his cap, not a great photo opperchancity.

This Green and Pleasant Land was followed by 360º. A sea shanty, featuring mandolin and violin, from their most recent album – Love Over Fear – this song has lots of water/sea references. Whilst the violin came across, the girls were somewhat down in the mix today.

The highly recognisable Paintbox was followed by the uptempo Stargazing, then Water. How fitting as we sailed away from the Dominican Republic.

The magnum guitar opus Breaking The Spell, featuring – Woody – the Strat, brought this set to a close. The band were just getting going.

In conversation with a chap later, he expressed his opinion that Pendragon had gotten their opening set wrong, too much noodling. The reality, Nick Barrett performs every song as he wrote it then recorded it in the studio. Extended improvisations are not his style.

Gazpacho

Gazpacho were due on the Pool Stage at 19.15. A name I have been aware of for many years but had not taken the plunge. Their latest album – Fireworker – whose title track opened the set, was duly purchased and will be waiting at Hector’s House on our return. Jan-Henrik Ohme’s vocals are clear, distinctive, almost Shatneresque in delivery. When it was his time to deliver, he commanded the stage.

Lots of space in the music and between the vocal lines. Once again, this is how the Hector likes his prog. Marg too was captivated. Jon-Arne Vilbo on lead guitar was ably accompanied by Mikael Kromer on guitar, violin and electric mandolin. Thomas Alexander Andersen provided further atmospherics on keyboards.

Jan-Henrik described the difficulty in choosing a selection of their songs to fit into an hour. Their albums are all concept in nature, to be listened to in their entirety, alpha to omega. Indeed, that which separates those of us who purchase albums as opposed to listening to radio play.

There was much celebration when the first three parts of Tick Tock closed the set, an album which is currently unavailable. One senses an imminent re-release and new packaging. Maybe even a Steven Wilson remix? Calm, Hector.

We shall certainly be back to see Gazpacho again on this stage.

Trifecta

Steven Wilson’s backing band featuring: Nick Beggs (bass) once of Kajagoogoo, Craig Blundell (drums) and Adam Holzmann (keyboards) reportedly started jamming together during SW rehearsals. The result was a three way collaboration by t-Internet and the release of CDs under the name – Trifecta. They had never performed their material live until tonight at the Spinnaker.

I was chatting with Adam Holzmann (USA) this afternoon. With Guthrie Govan (UK) of (The Aristocrats (UK, Deutschland, USA) also on board, what chance them playing Regret #No.9 – from Steven Wilson’s – Hand Cannot Erase? Surely one of the finest keyboard and guitar breaks ever to be recorded. This he dismissed but considered Home Invasion, which precedes it on the album, to be a possibility. One certainty, it couldn’t be tonight, The Aristocrats are due on at 22.00 in the Stardust Theatre.

With the VIPs let in first, seats were at a premium in the Spinnaker. As the VIPs had rushed in from the left to the middle and beyond, so spaces on the right were consequently few. The Hector applied – Hotelling – once more, went left and secured a settee, stage right at the front, albeit with a restricted view.

Nick announced that tonight there was a fourth member – Brenda – a computer, AI on stage. Sounding somewhat like Marvin from Hitch-hikers Guide To The Galaxy, there was a series of derogatory introductions and comments between songs.

The material was all in brief spurts. Too short songs for the Hector’s liking, not Proggy enough. Whilst the playing was excellent, the material did not excite. I signalled to Marg, let’s cut our losses and get good seats for The Aristocrats. This also meant that we were going to miss Caligula’s Horse (Australia) at the Pool Stage.

The Aristocrats

The Aristocrats, instrumental, actually mental in parts, with the animal noises thrown in. Tonight was about ducks. Fortunately having bought their recent opus – Duck – I was in on the joke.

Tight, technical, demanding, it was late and the Hector was half in a dream state for much of this set. Marg was particularly impressed by drummer Marco Minnmeman. I never knew Marg liked drum solos, somebody must. Who was this guy? I then realised I had another album featuring Marco Minneman, the eponymous – The Sea Within – featuring Roine Stolt and Jonas Reingold (The Flower Kings, Sverige). This album I hold in high regard.

With the comfort of the theatre seats, an enjoyable set, but elsewhere on the ship, maybe not.

It was late and you guessed it, Bier o’clock.

There was a further musical act to consider this evening. The late night band. Someone should tell Doris she can’t hold a note, despite this, in they launched  a full twenty minute cover of Close To The Edge (Yes).

The bird-tweet intro was a positive start, the twin-necked guitarist knew his role, thereafter, wtf?

One cannot play standard bass runs to a Chris Squire composition. On – Close To The Edge – Squire was either playing the melody or his own, unique root notes. The chap tonight played on regardless, every note irrelevant, every note – wrong.

A extra, white, mini keyboard had been laid as a bridge between the two rigs. Was this for the grand organ sequence? Alas not. That would have been amusing.

By the time they reached the dual dialogue, counterpoint vocals, it was a matter of how bad could it get? Few were disappointed if on the same wavelength as the Hector. Dreadful, but full marks for trying.


Day 4, another day at sea, and still the Hector is coping.

Today’s highlights would be a repeat of two days ago, IQ and Riverside, the latter not guaranteed. As we left the Garden Cafe at the end of breakfast, so Michal Lapaj, keyboard player of Riverside, was sitting chatting. I asked if he had a magic stick that would guarantee my access to the Stardust Theatre – orange show. Nope. Marg was not happy with me asking, but Steve Hackett did apologise from the stage that he had commandeered some of the extra places for his chosen few. So, it was possible.

IQ

IQ, the Stardust Theatre at high noon. With great seats mid-auditorium, all was set. By now I had worked out that if my indoor SLR photos were all out of focus, it was time to try manual focusing. Modest results but at least something to post.

Indoors, no wind, a perfect sound set up, a wonderful hour of IQ.

Frequency (again), Shallow Bay, Far From Here, Closer, Leap Of Faith, The Road Of Bones, Headlong. Having played nothing from my favourite IQ album – Ever – at The Met (Bury) earlier this year, if was good to hear Leap Of Faith once more.

So polished was the set, I’m sure they will be invited back.

It’s one o’clock and time for lunch,
When the sun beats down and I lie on the bench
I can always hear them talk…

Time for lunch anyway, and more Curry: Dal Peshwari and Mushroom Masala.

The Daal was the gentle Curry this afternoon. The Mushroom Masala was the business. Look at the modest portions, I may be eating three times a day, but am certainly not pigging out. I’m still surprised to be eating at all.

Mushroom Masala

With Curry Leaves and finely chopped Onions in the mix, this was certainly a meal. That the Mushrooms were fresh was an added bonus, no tinned nonsense. The Spice Level impressed, the Earthy Flavour from the Masala almost had me go back for more.

The word on the blurb was that if one went to the restaurant adjacent to the Stardust Theatre one hour before a gig of the opposite colour, wristbands would be issued on a first come, first served basis. Time to join the queue. This was well organised. A lady came past and told us all to remain where we were. Another lady arrived with numbered wristbands, sixty of them, Marg and I were 30 and 31. We were then told to go away and come back just before the start of the gig. Perfect, there was ice-cream to be had.

Trifecta

Trifecta were on at the Pool Stage.  At least today we could see them.  We didn’t hang about.

In the interim, and en route, we took in some of the Big Big Train’s Q&A at the Atrium.

Riverside

At 15.25 we were stood in numerical order then divided into two groups, one for each standing platform. Riverside took to the stage at 15.30, an excellent view, the challenge would be to stand for an hour.

A few in the very back row left mid-show, Marg bagged a seat.

All was well.

The same set as two days ago, this time with a bit more enthusiasm. Yet, Mariusz had to announce before the final song – The Curtain Falls – that after this, they would be taking a break.

Whenever, wherever, they return, the Hector will be there. So far I have seen them in Glasgow (twice), Berlin, Gdynia, Lodz, Poznan and Athena.

Later, in conversation with someone known to Graham, he reckoned that time could be called on the band. There has been a fall out. Piotr Grudzinski (drums) owns the name Riverside, despite the music being predominantly written by Mariusz. So it goes. There’s always Lunatic Soul.

Caligula’s Horse at the Pool Stage at 17.15, Gazpacho at the Spinnaker at 17.30.

Caligula’s Horse

I have been enjoying the former’s Charcoal Grace album, the title track being a mere twenty four minutes. This Brisbane band took to the stage in uniform shirts, their live playing was not as expected.

Again, trying too hard, take your time, chaps, let the music breathe. However, such was the impact made by Gazpacho, we didn’t give Caligula’s Horse much time to impress.

The same rushed entry procedure to the Spinnaker found the Hector once again stage right at the front. By somewhat of a fluke, a photographer gave up his seat letting Marg gain a premium view, with the Hector stuck with a restricted view.

Gazpacho

Sapien, another track from Fireworker, plus three more more from Tick Tock made up four of the seven songs performed. The more intimate setting may have suited the band, but we were all in agreement, the Spinnaker was the poorest venue.

Robert Fripp

We had to cut our visit short, Robert Fripp (King Crimson, UK) & David Singleton, were due on stage in the Stardust Theatre at 18.15. I had heard people say – they perform old stuff, i.e. from – Court Of The Crimson King. I was not prepared for what awaited. A screen mid stage was showing a film, out-takes from a South American King Crimson show in which Craig Blundell was one of three drummers. The front of the stage had two chairs set up for a Q&A. Was this it, the headline act on the ship?

How the organisers had pulled this off defied belief. Anyone coming for this would surely be outraged? Many left the theatre.

After a few stories, people were invited to queue at either of two microphones and ask their question, ladies first. The hour passed, we were entertained, Robert Fripp, Prog royalty and his engineer side-kick, no wife aboard. Marg didn’t recognise the chap in the vintage film extracts as being the man on stage.

I need to buy – Red – featuring Bill Bruford (Yes) and John Wetton (Uriah Heep, Asia).

Time to squeeze in some dinner. More Meat and a Seafood concoction from the main buffet area were accompanied by Gobi Korma.

Gobi Korma

Not the full on Coconut experience and certainly not a Desi Korma, there was a good kick in there. The texture of the Cauliflower was just hanging on, pulp avoided. Sadly, having eaten Chef’s creations for four days, there was an inherent familiarity about this Curry. The – packet mixed Spice Flavour – was now impossible to ignore.

The Seafood Stew was excellent.

Haken

A busy day so far and still four bands to consider this evening. The chairs in front of the Pool Stage had been removed, a mosh pit on Cruise To The Edge? We took a brief look/listen to Haken, more or less in passing, very much as predicted.

Karmakanic

Karmakanic (Sverige) had been brought to or attention, in essence a solo project by Jonas Reingold, of whom I reminded Marg yet again, that she had seen with The Flower Kings in Langbank many moons ago. Performing at the Atrium at 20.15, it was a case of find a gap by the time we got back down to Deck 7.

Jonas Reingold on bass, Craig Blundell on drums as he is on the latest album – Transmutation – along with guitarists Steve Hackett and John Mitchell (Frost, Arena, UK). Tonight, the guitarist immediately impressed. I had to wait until the honourable moment to identify him, even though Marg and I had seen him before in Katowice as the extra guitar player in Porcupine Tree. Randy McStine, class.

With music not dissimilar to The Flower Kings, technical, but as I keep writing, with space, a great set. Another album to be ordered when we get home. At the end of the set, the band stripped down to Reingold, McStine and a certain Nick D’Virgilio, their first performance together in many a year we were told.

Everyone is friendly with everyone else.

Saga

One would think that that would be that for the night, but no, Saga were scheduled for midnight at the Stardust Theatre. Despite not being a colour coded show, we took our usual seats in the balcony then moved two left to where the French couple normally sit.

Intricate, melodic, sometimes familiar, and with Jim Crichton still jumping around the stage, thoroughly entertaining. The state of semi-sleep a la Aristocats was not forthcoming, Saga commanded attention. The last time I shall ever get to see this famous Canadian outfit.

With Rush gone, Hector’s current Canadian fixation is Mystery. To see Mystery, one has to go to Nederland. After Cruise To The Edge, cheap as chips.

01.00, Bier o’clock. Just the one, plus some Chilli con Carne.


Today, Day 5, Great Stirrup Cay, the last port of call, directly off the Miami coastline.

As written in the intro, we are at anchor and so had to take a launch ashore. Oh no, a wee boat, proper waves. The Hector can usually manage an hour before disaster strikes, it was but a short hop ashore.

For those who worship the sun, or like beaches and swimming, Great Stirrup Cay might be interesting. Otherwise, there is nothing there. We knew we had to be back on board in time for Pendragon at 15.00. Instead, having been ashore for less than one hour, we joined the queue to get back in time for Pure Reason Revolution’s noon show, again at the Pool Stage.

Pure Reason Revolution

With no seats front of stage, we returned to our Saga vantage point on Deck 8. Another varied and interesting set, this young band have talent.

Unfortunately, the heat got to the laptop, the keyboards crashed. A block of ice was part of the cure. The hiatus did mean dropping two songs. Should they come to Glasgow, we shall attend, sporting Cruise To The Edge t-shirts, of course.

For lunch today, no Curry. I did spot some Bhaji-like creations in the mainstream food sections. They had to be tried. 

Beef’n’Bhaji

Carrots, Peas and Sweetcorn, no Spice had been harmed in their creation. The Bhaji concept had been borrowed.  There’s no such thing as a Bhaji anyway, except when there is. 

Having seen the queue for IQ previously, the Hector was not taking any chances. The Pendragon line stretched back through the corridor of the currently closed duty free shops.

We were admitted a fair bit before the 15.00 starting time. Instead of heading for our usual seats, I directed Marg downstairs. This meant we collided with the VIPs entering from Deck 6. Marg’s reaction was one of – we can’t go there.

Follow me – was the response.

Four rows from the front of the stage, we bagged four seats at the end of the centre aisle. Now to find Graham and Susan. In time they were spotted and came down to join us. Four Pendragon fans, Mr. Barrett could not escape.

Pendragon

From the opening chord, I whispered in Marg’s ear – If I were the wind, and you were the rain. It had to be, what else could open this set? Glasgow, Kinross, Morecambe, Leamington Spa, Katowice, I have lost track of how many times Marg has seen Pendragon. For Hector add Rotherham and the famous late night gig in Glasgow with fewer than a dozen present. Eternal Light, A Man Of Nomadic Traits, Fall Away, King of the Castle, Truth and Lies, Afraid of Everything, a set comprised of old and new.

Apart from the mini album – North Star, it is five years since – Love Over Fear – was released. There is talk of an autobiography, a new album is required.

Being the last day, there was the sense of a bit more time available, a story or two. Nick told of a previous cruise with the ship rolling. Steve Howe’s (Yes) pedal steel guitar entered and exited stage right of its own free will. Nick reckoned that Steve could have played it without moving his hand.

All those present must have loved this show, the intimacy, the sound was perfect. With the girls on backing vocals, King of the Castle was given its true studio reproduction. There is another Pendragon Weekend later this year, alas Marg and Hector have other commitments. Next year.

Ice-cream called.

D’Virgilio, Morse, Jennings

Thereafter we took in a bit more of D’Virgilio, Morse, Jennings at the Pool Stage. Again in passing from Deck 8.

The scheduled big ending was nigh, Steve Hackett at the Stardust Theatre, the green show at 18.30. Changing decks, I encountered Randy McStine mid photo-shoot. Well, why not?

Prior to the cruise, I had wondered if the show would be solo Hackett, or the full Lamb Lies Down On Broadway anniversary tour. However, spotting Nad Sylvan, his vocalist for Genesis songs on Day 1, confirmed all would be well.

Steve Hackett

We took our reserved seats. Cue Craig Blundell, once again, Rob Townsend on sax, flute and keyboards, who had joined in with Karmakanic last night, plus Jonas Reingold on bass, and it all comes together. Roger King, on main keyboards, we must have seen already on previous Hackett shows.

Four songs from Steve Hackett’s solo albums kicked things off: People of the Smoke, Circo Inferno, The Devil’s Cathedral then the end section of Shadow of the Hierophant, the Genesis track that never was. Then we were down to business.

The Lamb Lies Down on Broadway, Fly on a Windshield, Cuckoo Cocoon, Carpet Crawlers, The Chamber of 32 Doors, Lilywhite Lilith, It, then the grand ending: Firth of Fifth, and Los Endos.

I had never seen Fly on a Windshield performed live before, an emotional moment. Thankfully it segued into Broadway Melody of 1974 else there would have been shouting from row two of the balcony.

It – IMHO is the worst possible ending to any double album. It sounds as though Genesis had simply run out of ideas. Side four of – Lamb – has a lot of noise on it. An album that peters out. The jazzy bit that is now part of Los Endos, I can do without. And just in case nobody had seen enough of Craig Blundell, he was permitted a drum solo. Marg will know him next time.

I didn’t buy tickets for the Glasgow Hackett leg of this tour. Seeing him this evening certainly made me feel as if this entire cruise was worth the money. Following this, there didn’t seem to be much on offer, but Graham and Susan said they were foregoing their turn to see Big Big Train in favour of another session of Moon Safari.

Tonight, no Curry, instead we went to the Grand Pacific dining room on Deck 6. Table cloths, a la carte, waiters, a bottle of wine even, but they didn’t have my first choice of red. We both had the Fish. Red wine with Fish, well if one dines in shorts and a Pendragon t-shirt, who cares?

Moon Safari (Sverige) were due on at the Spinnaker at 21.15. We used the same tactics as before but were split up. Marg secured a single seat in front of the stage, the Hector another side settee. Graham and Susan, who arrived momentarily, had noted my theory on where to go and duly took up the remaining space on the settee.

Moon Safari

Moon Safari, the tallest chaps on the ship, entertaining, musical, but I’ll need to give them another listen before deciding to invest. Their set certainly had its moments. Was gig fatigue setting in? At the end of their set, all five stood and sang a cappella.

The reception they received was memorable. There was definitely something happening here. Moon Safari, tbc.

We had missed a thunderstorm. Having avoided the gangway after Moon Safari and taken the lift back to Deck 7, we had failed to note that the Pool Stage had been abandoned. Instead of the usual late night karaoke-stye bands setting up, the multinational TEMIC were setting up in the Atrium.

TEMIC

TEMIC a byproduct, partially, of Mike Portnoy’s (Dream Theater, Transatlantic) touring band: Eric Gillette, guitar (Neal Morse Band), Diego Tejeida (Haken) on keyboards.

It was Bier o’clock and the music had come to us. Bier with Graham was taking priority, and so TEMIC were not given the full attention they surely deserved. There was enough seen and heard to accept that this is another band worthy of investigation.

Five hectic days and an early rise tomorrow. Contrary to what I read somewhere, and can no longer find, we are due off the ship tomorrow by 09.15, not the promised noon. Would we do this again? An emphatic no, financially this was a once in a lifetime experience. If the god of the lottery smiled, then a VIP state room would be a must, and the other advantages that go with it. The god of the lottery does not control the weather. I feel I got it lucky, at times I forgot I was aboard ship. This trip could easily have been Hector Hell. Next year’s Cruise To The Edge is a month earlier. How are the seas then?

We are here because IQ, Pendragon and Riverside are on board. I have deliberately added the nationalities of each band/artist where possible. How many American, i.e. US artists are aboard ship? As those who also purchase albums on the ECM jazz label should concur, Europe is where the music is. Europe is on our doorstep. I have been going to Polska for years to see Steven Wilson, Porcupine Tree, Pendragon and Riverside.

Polska rocks, and it doesn’t roll.

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