Back in Glasgow, for a very, very, long time, relatively speaking, time to restore the tour of the Southside Curry Cafes, 2026. After last week’s near excessive Lamb intake in Manchester, there had to be something completely different. Monday is Bateera Day at Shahi Mahal (452 Cathcart Rd., Govanhill, Glasgow G40 7B2), Hector was game to once again take on – the wee burd.
Michael, of this parish, that’s when he’s not in Türkiye, has expressed a keenness of late to join the Hector for a nibble. 14.30 became the rendezvous time.
Michael had already made it clear that Quail was not for him, too footery. That is part of its joy, but not for everyone. Other ready creations would be on offer.
I believe Zahir was summoned from the kitchen by the young chap behind the counter when I asked for Bateera.
You remember Karahi today? – was his greeting.
I came for Bateera.
Michael was being denied the pleasure of what Lord Clive of Crawley described as – Best Lamb Karahi ever. Today, the Hector was not up to sharing the kilo of Lamb Karahi (£35.00). Zahir talked Michael through the display of trays in the glass display counter. Alo Bengan (£5.00) was duly chosen, Aubergine Potato.
We both ordered a Nan (£1.25) which was certainly more Bread than we would need. But let’s celebrate the realistic pricing. I did advise Michael that with the presentation of Salad and Raita, plus the 50p sitting-in surcharge, per item I conclude, he would be paying more than first seen.
The sign at the till saying – Cash Only – was a bummer.
We tried all three booth tables and fitted most comfortably into the one nearest the counter. The heater was in situ on the floor, but not switched on. Despite a winter chill outside, inside was comfortable. No – alien – would command the heater today.
The Salad and Raita duly arrived, brought by a mature lady. One day, Zahir will line up all his staff to be made famous. More napkins and cutlery were secured. Eating Quail is a messy business. Michael’s Curry arrived first.
Alo Bengan
The portion size seemed miserable. More of a snack than a main meal. If one is particularly hungry, order two! It won’t break the bank. The Potato clearly had time to absorb the Oily Shorva, the Aubergine, presumably mushy. If this is your cup of tea, enjoy. The Hector would willingly have this as a Side and maybe have no Rice/Bread.
Nice Curry, shame about the Naan – was Michael’s verdict. Flavoursome, a decent level of hotness.
Bread not their forte – he added.
The Naan, served whole, round, so presumably Tawa cooked, not Tandoor, had perforation holes across the bulk of the centre, a la Manchester. I cannot find an example of this having been done here before, so why now? The rising of the Bread had subsequently been limited, the hoped for level of fluffiness was therefore only attained in part. Tough edges.
Marg and Hector had some Middle Eastern Bread at La Viva Cafe (Preston) en route to Glasgow last Friday, Pitta beyond anything seen normally in the UK, a delight. Michael, of course, eats similar for half of the year. Middle Eastern Bread often has the – wow – factor, refer also to the number of Naan enjoyed over the years in Athena.
The Bread still did its job, a Dipping Fest ensued.
Bateera
The exterior of the pair of Quail looked to be a different dark brown today, overenthusiastic reheating? It’s all about what surrounds the Quail, the micromanaging of the Meat content of this Dish has to be accepted. An Oily Shorva in parts, honourable Masala once this was dealt with. With Ginger Strips and sliced Bullet Chillies cooking in on the plate, plus Coriander, a lot going on.
One begins with a Dip! Masses of Flavour from the Shorva. The Big Clove Blast! I felt I had not left Manchester. Legs next, there were four, twa’ burds. The easiest Meat to access, big sook #1. Discard-the-Bone. A bowl had been provided for the carcases.
With the Oily Shorva taken care of, the quality of the remaining Masala stood out, a blended mash perhaps. The Seasoning was a la Hector, the Spice Level dictated as and when a Bullet Chilli was encountered.
Zahir was out to check on our progress.
It’s spicy?
You added Chillies!
Whole Peppercorns were eaten with care, the Black Cardamom located and duly discarded before it was too late. The bulk of the Meat, Breast feels an absurdity, was eased off with the spoon. In time all Bones had been set aside, the final minutes, an eating frenzy in comparison to the careful dissection which preceded it.
The rewards were achieved, satisfying warmth and joyful Favours on the palate. This Curry exactly suited my requirements today.
Both bowls were wiped clean. We justified the two Naan, almost.
I asked Zahir if we could pay by card. The wish was granted.
The Bill
£21.50
The Aftermath
Much time was spent at the facilities washing the face. Although the hand drier gave off quite a blast, the Hector was not for getting down on his knees.
The Cumin Seeds, hiding in their usual places, were discovered as the afternoon progressed.
Today, the Hector had his own 
We 
As I stood at the serving bar, so Rizwan piled on a huge portion of Rice to the plate. 
Having described the wonder that is this Curry as recently as 
With Clove to the fore, the well Seasoned Masala was complemented by the Ginger Cubes, sliced Green Chillies, and the forest of Coriander. The Spice Level was therefore – as you like it. A piece of Cinnamon Bark confirmed the – Desi – credentials. 
Today, I gave everyone the day off. But who knows, comments may arrive later.
Earlier this week, I mentioned the Spiced Onions in the bucket at the display counter. These are they, do try them. 
Once, in any Manchester trip, there is usually an opperchancity to have some serious Curry. 
The red chairs have gone, replaced with white ones, new tables, and more versatile too. Otherwise, nothing much has changed at these humble premises. A massive vat of Oil had something uncertain being cooked, whole Chickens possibly. Worryingly, I spotted the – cash only – sign. Whilst some of us certainly carry real money, what were the chances of all six? I went up to the counter, the young chap assured me that card payment would be accepted. With their pukka digital till, why even pretend?
The timeous four had time to peruse the 
Fish.
At the point of ordering, I was advised that the Karahi would take twenty minutes to prepare. There was little surprise then when the chaps brought the Karahi just us my fellow diners were licking their lips in appreciation of their Starters. There was a quick rearrangement of the plates on the table to accommodate the two large, flat, karahi.
Bullet Chillies sliced lengthwise, a threat of Coriander, strips of Ginger and Tomato, plus slices of Lemon topped the Karahi. The Thick Masala was everything one could hope for, there was but a glint of Oil on the periphery. Full marks for presentation.
Minimal bones, indeed, Johnnie had assumed this was all Boneless Lamb until he found one bone. For the Hector, a similar experience. 
I had taken what I knew I could manage, a serving from each karahi. If eight pieces of Meat is a standard portion, then in effect, I had two portions on my plate. Well judged, there would certainly be enough, and given how quickly some stopped eating, nobody was leaving hungry. 
The Naan were served whole in two baskets. This enabled access for all regardless of seating position. With multiple perforations, as is the Manchester way, they had not risen to their full extent. The edges were also more firm than they could have been otherwise. The offer of more was declined, we had enough Bread on the table. 
A simpler presentation, Ginger Strips, sliced Bullet Chillies but probably more Coriander, here there was more of an oily, Buttery sheen. 
Johnnie: It was – expletive deleted – magnificent!
About twenty a head?– asked Johnnie as we prepared to leave.
The Aftermath
Four nights in Manchester this week, and three closing time visits to 
Another important piece of information was gleaned. Chef Rashid has long gone, no obvious Maestro has replaced him. There was a kid in the kitchen, working alone. 
The number of Wraps purchased by Hector could well be counted on one hand, never taken to them. Compared to the 
Usually, there are two visits to Manchester at the start of the year, but I missed out on tickets for
A 14.00 rendezvous with Dr. Stan at 
Rice and Three (£9.00) is what Hector had in mind for today, however on seeing Kofta (£7.00) on the Board, that was postponed. I did check with Rizwan, Mein Host, that the Kofta was actually – Kofta Anda. The presence of the hard-boiled Egg makes all the difference. This would also allow a Nan (£1.00) for a change, no Rice. Marg, whose bowl of Porridge earlier was even larger than yesterday’s, limited her Order to being another snack. A Vegetable Samosa (£1.50) and Indian Tea (£3.00).
Three Meatballs, and half a hard-boiled Egg were smothered in a blended Masala. The Spices in the Masala brought out the root 
Dissecting the Kofta, the interior was pale, so Chicken Mince was deduced. 
A substantial Samosa served with Salad, Raita and Onions. Rizwan’s bucket of Onions is something to behold. Stored at the counter front of house, visually unappealing perhaps, but oh the taste!
The Keema (£7.00) had more peripheral Oil than one might hope for. A moist interpretation of this fine Dish. The Keema Naan (£5.00), served whole was a meal in itself. 
An interior photo was secured, this is how such a Naan should be, discrete grains of Mince. Clive’s Keema with more Keema is one of his all time favourites. 
Served in a bowl, the Masala in the Karahi Lamb (£7.00) dominates, served with Rice, much of the liquid is immediately absorbed. Two entirely different ways of having this Curry. 
Prof G: Friendly service, great value , combo of Lamb Karahi & Kofta hit the spot, great flavour.
Kofta, Karahi Lamb, Spinach and Potatoes
Smorgasbord or Buffet, perhaps this was the ultimate creation?
Rizwan was advised that tomorrow the plan is that some will be partaking in another style of Curry on Cheetham Hill Road. The likelihood is, some will be back on Thursday. 
The second half of January means the annual trip by The Company to Manchester. The arrival in Manchester corresponds with a visit to 
For Hector, Karahi 
Martin, 
Rizwan had added the Foliage before bringing it over. Copious sliced Green Chillies, cubes of Ginger and fresh Coriander topped the mass of Meat and Masala. Beneath, as much Rice as a Hector could manage. On Day #1 in Manchester, confidence levels are high, whatever is set before me is manageable, the appetite tends to wain as the week progresses and the eating time becomes earlier. 15.30, the ideal time of day to have Curry. 
Gosh! – my immediate reaction. 
The Desi credentials were in place: Cinnamon Bark and whole Black Peppercorns 
Across the table, Martin was having a different experience. Chapattis with Karahi, as the Hector would have anywhere else, but is the Karahi served here not simply Curry? Wholemeal Chapattis, large, served whole, has Martin tried the Naan at 
Served in a bowl, with even more Foliage added, obscuring any Chillies or Ginger. The peripheral Oil stands out, with Rice, this is absorbed. A different eating experience, 
Four Chops, the best value in the country, and by that I mean the UK! Truly cremated, the Carbon adds so much Flavour. Too few places will serve Lamb Chops this well fired, even when specifically asked for. Who knows, Hector may be tempted to savour these later in the week. Marg:
I thoroughly enjoyed the very tender Lamb Chops, with plenty of soft meat and carbon-rich pieces near the bone. It was a meal eaten from the hands, and was exactly how I wanted to eat my Lamb Chops. Perfect.
The Aftermath
S
Nae Meat – these pages will never celebrate those who continuously deny themselves this source of protein. That historically, due to inherent poverty, Meat was not available to the masses, fair dos. Anyway, this is Glasgow,
A table for one – having instructed me to take a seat in the waiting area before disappearing to the rear of the restaurant, he didn’t return. Nor did I sit, 
I wouldn’t be having that then, but Thali was very much in Hector’s mind. Two Curry items on the menu had caught the eye whilst researching: 
Wading through the menu, it took a few minutes to find my meal of choice. A metal jug of water, already on the table, was soon complemented by a metal goblet, brought to the table by the chap who had abandoned me earlier. 
As I waited, I took in my surroundings. Quite a place, I was never here when it was a bar. Indeed, this was the first time I had set foot in any part of the Beresford, possibly Glasgow’s most famous art deco building. 
The family group behind me to my left took their leave. The weans had gone, the atmosphere in the restaurant improved dramatically. 
A large, round Thali tray was presented, with most of the contents obscured by a Poppadom, fork, spoon and what I took to be a Banana Leaf in the poly bag. I took a serviette, opened it, then laid it flat on the table. The Poppadom/Appalam was broken up and arranged on the serviette. Maybe later, probably not. 
Fifteen Pots were arranged around the centre of the tray, a central eating area? The centre featured a Banana, a Fritter/Doughnut and a stalk. The Hector does not eat any Banana which no longer features green skin. Too Sweet, wrong Texture. The stalk I took to be Bamboo, Hector is a Hound, not a Panda. 
As the people behind me departed, so the lady admired my use of the leaf, she hadn’t though of that. She warned me about the Betel Nut, her husband suggested Tamarind as an ingredient of the Special Drink which he described as a palate cleanser. 
Nearest me were two Rice Pots, with a third top left. Why three? Why Stodgy Rice? This was even worse than the Rice served by Hector forty years ago before the microwave guaranteed discrete grains. 
And so to the Curry Pots, or were they? 
Some 
In 2021, there were eight 
As Marg went off to check the facilities, so he 
Given the choice of tables in the otherwise empty restaurant, we chose the corner, window table. 
This has been a common occurrence in visits to 
Both Breads halved and in one basket. Better than quartered, but why not – whole?
No karahi, a ceramic dish, why? Coriander Ginger Strips and sliced Bullet Chillies topped the plateful. The Texture of the Masala revealed the presence of Yoghurt. With the peripheral Oil at an acceptable level, no panic, and no watery residue either. 
This statement is not to be taken lightly. 
Mid meal, I piled everything to one side of the plate to see how much Oil would drain to the other. Acceptable, and so all was stirred, carry on, Hector.
The same 
I studied the Potato, it was not discoloured to any depth, so cannot have been left to sit and absorb Spice, hence Flavour, as in my favoured Curry Cafes. 
She dreams of Kashmiri Tea – was my remark to the waitress when 
At the start of each year, the Hector is faced with the challenge of getting around all the Southside Curry Cafes, both to show my face and update the menu tag, this time to – 2026. 
Original Khyber (69 Kilmarnock Road, Shawlands Glasgow G41 3YR) 
Arriving first, I took a table well inside the cafe/restaurant, and beyond the only two sit-in customers who would leave shortly. Eight years, have either of us changed? 
I had time to study the menu. 
Not Garlic Nan (£2.50) – Bill insisted – the Garlic overwhelms.
We were on the same page, a Plain Nan (£1.49) each would suffice, to start anyway. Curry with Bread v Bread with Curry, to each, our own approach. 
Tap water was the liquid accompaniment. 
A chap behind the counter asked if we wanted two half kilos, or one large. Large of course, and this is the only time the Hector actually enjoys sharing, anything. 
The two Naan were brought in separate baskets, quartered. They must have been huge before cutting. Risen, puffy blistered, Tandoori teardrop-shaped originally, most enjoyable. Next time, whole please. 
A Curry that is almost – grey. Nothing red goes into the making of this marvel. Onions, black pepper, ginger – says the menu. And a lot of skill and patience. I have tried. 
I had taken about a third of what I would eventually eat, to start. The residue emanating from the Meat and Masala was as much juice as Oil. No great Flavour coming from this. Oh. 
I proudly took a photo of the empty karahi, it has been quite some time since I shared-the-kilo with only one fellow diner. I didn’t feel Lambed-out either. 
Being visit #2, no 
The – Silly Season – officially ends tomorrow, the feast of – The Epiphany.
First to arrive and no sign of Vini, Mein Host, the rest of the staff certainly recogni
Poppadoms, Mango Chutney and a towering pot of Spiced Onions were on the table in an instant, how it should be. Peter spotted the price of these on the menu – you have been here before.
Hector was sticking to the Curry that triggered so many return visits – Desi Lamb on-the-bone (£12.95) with the favoured Mushrooms (Rice) (£3.90). And yes, I have tried most of the items on the 
As we were here – to dine – Marg proposed we all share Mixed Pakora (£10.50). With three pieces 
The complimentary Poppadoms etc. taken care of, the Mixed Pakora duly arrived. The ladies took care of the Salad elements and purloined most of the Haggis, one component the Hector had dismissed. If Hector desires Haggis Pakora, then a single Haggis from any Fish & Chip shop is surely comparable? 
One piece of Vegetable Pakora, double fried, OK, and two pieces of Fish Pakora was my allocation. Fresh Fish Pakora cannot be beaten. That 
There was a sufficient gap between Starters and Mains. Hot plates were presented, the joy of being in an actual restaurant. 
The Bread at 
Dark, thick, earthy, with menacing Lentils to the fore – is how I expect a Daal Makhani to appear. 
The resemblance to the Daal Makhani was observed by all, another Creamy, Soupy creation. There did not appear to be much Chicken relative to the quantity of Masala. Wendy was satisfied with some of Marg’s Rice and a piece of the Naan. Maybe this Curry called for a huge, puffy Naan for a dipping fest?
Wendy – It was ideal for me. Creamy with a sweet and sour kick. I coupled this with the Daal which was great. Both very filling.
Extra Desi – said the waitress as she presented my Curry, not Peter’s. The difference was even more whole Green Chillies. Hence, the Spice Level of the Curry was self administered. I left one Chilli. 
Sucky Bones were to the fore, the Meat falling off. There was no need to count, the plentiful Lamb was self evident. The Meat to Masala ratio was therefore commendable. 
The Masala was speckled with Herb, in time a piece of Star Anise was revealed, Desi confirmed. 
The Spiced Onion was the most potent thing I had this evening, maybe it should have been avoided. Had the Spiced Onion already stymied the taste-buds?
The Masala could have been identical to that served with the Desi Lamb. 
A large plate with my Masala Fish Curry and a good-size of Mushroom Rice completed my dinner. The rice added good textures to my thin masala sauce. The fish pieces were numerous and tasty, cooked in the onion and tomato gravy 
There was but a scrap of Naan left on the table at the conclusion of the meal. Marg had her Chai. In the otherwise empty restaurant we were under no pressure to depart.