Glasgow – Khyber Pass Restaurant – Authentic Afghan Karahi

On Saturday night, Hector was taken along St. Andrew’s Road in Glasgow’s Southside by a taxi driver. This is a thoroughfare around Pollokshields, not a route one travels every day. Once again The Hector had a moment of Serendipity. Passing the much missed premises which three years ago housed The Khyber, Scotland’s First Afghan Restaurant, the lights were on, behold – the Khyber Pass Restaurant (221 St. Andrews Road, Glasgow, G41 1PD).

Star Trek – Beyond in 3D at the IMAX was the prelude to a visit this evening, Hector was in a convivial mood, hopefully a Lamb Karahi would maintain this.

At 20.30, Marg parked opposite. The premises were well illuminated, more people were present than we had ever seen during the previous incarnation. What had been a seating area on the right hand side is now an Open Kitchen and Takeaway Counter, the original Kitchen through the back also appears to still be in use, presumably as a preparation area.

We had a choice of two large tables, Marg chose the window. Sixteen Fellow Diners were present, three more arrived, add to this a continuous stream of Takeaway Customers, and one hopes the Formula for selling Authentic Afghan Cuisine in Glasgow has finally been cracked. Two years ago the Afghan Village on Pollokshaws Road did not survive despite serving a Worthy Karahi. Elsewhere, the new Afghan Restaurant in Crawley – Fat Boy’s Joint – is way overpriced, and then there is the Apology for Afghan Cuisine encountered in München at – Nigin. Hector has missed the Sheer Simplicity that is Afghan Cuisine done well.

The Laminated Menu was simple, mostly Kebap and Grill accompanied by Nihari, Haleem and Paya, the Dishes Hector is in no hurry to try again. But there was the required Dish – Lamb Karahi, £22.00 by the Kilo, £12.00 by the Half Kilo. Why do the good people of Fat Boy’s, Crawley, think they can sell this for £40.00 a Kilo, get real.

No way was Marg going to risk having Lamb Karahi here, she spotted Lamb Chops as part of the Mixed Grill (£15.00), how flexible would they be? The Greek Salad was an unexpected feature, this had Marg onside.

One of the two Young Chaps came over to serve. Lamb Chops were available as a stand alone Dish, there was no Greek Salad, he suggested Marg have just a Salad. For The Hector, the Half Kilo of Lamb Karahi with a Keema Nan (£2.50), no Chapattis or Paratha were on offer. I was interested to establish if the Keema Nan would be served with Pink Meat or Brown. The Waiter assured me the Lamb was on-the-bone, no other requirements need be stated, let’s see how it comes.

Marg was facing into the room and so could see the activity. The photo opperchancities were reduced, no sneaky shots. The Takeaway Counter was always busy, it will take another visit to acquire photos of the new layout.

A Karahi was filled high and taken to the most recent arrivals, Marg wondered why they were served before us. Perhaps they had arranged their order in advance, like we do at Yadgar! Suffice to say, what I saw was encouraging.

A Salad was placed on our table, Marg studied this, slightly in despair. This is what is referred to as a Modest Salad in Curry-Heute. A Raita and a Spicy Dip accompanied. The Mango Lassi in a 350ml Glass was more appealing. For Hector, there was no Sparkling Water or Mango Rubicon, Tangoed!  (70p)

Thirty minutes after ordering, which is well within acceptable parameters, a Plate of well fired Lamb Chops with a Little Salad on the side was presented to Marg. Four Chops! Marg took the Best of the Modest Salad, to supplement her own, covered this with the Mint Raita, and tore in.

The Waiter brought the Lamb Karahi and the Keema Nan, this was The Biz!

*

Afghan Nan

Covered in Melted Butter, this style of Naan Bread is markedly different than that served in an Indo-Pak Restaurant. Less risen (Kulcha?), more compacted, perforated, the Mince could be seen protruding. The hoped for Brown Meat was visible as were Coriander Seeds. The Fresh Coriander on top glistened, this was a very different experience. Marg noted that the Nan had a Kick of its own, time to dip.

Afghan Karahi

The Lamb was a mixture of Lamb Chops, Sucky Bones and Boneless Lamb, the full array. The Lamb was wonderfully cooked, enough for a Feast, the Bones meant not to excess. The Masala was Minimal, Tomato Seeds were visible suggesting this was a Tomato Based Masala, no Onion, as I believe is also the Yadgar way. The Oil was collecting at the base of the Karahi, this interpretation looked close to the New Karahi Palace also.

Seasoning is all, this Lamb Karahi was Perfect. The Spice Level was not for the faint of heart, a Serious Kick. Marg was permitted a sample, too much for her as anticipated, Marg was thoroughly enjoying her Chops.

The Keema Nan was even better dipped in the Oil, the Coriander Seeds were a Great Inclusion. In some ways Hector was having Two Meals simultaneously. Joy.

Towards the end, some Masala was left at the base of the Karahi, this was recorded, as Tasty as Masala can be, in no way Excessive. This was indeed a  Lamb Karahi, an addition to the few Glasgow Venues capable of serving such a Dish.

A brilliant meal. – said Marg.

The Bill

£22.20. Subtracting the known, the Lamb Chops were £5.00.

The Aftermath

I had asked The Waiter earlier how long the Khyber Pass had been in operation:

Four to five weeks – was the reply. It was he I gave the Calling Card to, he sat down, this was Abdul, Mein Host.

I congratulated him on the Quality of the Fayre, a photograph was agreed. I also managed one of the cooking area, his colleagues will hopefully become used to this in future visits.

What I have not established is the Opening Time. The previous operation opened too late in the day, hence the limited number of visits. Although the impressive Cafe Reeshah is around the corner, if the Khyber Pass Restaurant opens early in the day, The Hector will be back regularly, if and when the Subway re-opens.

The Menu at Khyber Pass Restaurant