Hector dropped in to Shinwari Restaurant (331 Langside Road, Glasgow G42 8 XT) in November 2016, it was like a scene from an imaginary western: the place fell silent. The Menu was simple, Afghani Cuisine remained. The premises have been known to Hector as a Curry House since it ceased being the Albert Bar. Sufi Restaurant was visited twice in 2015, a much welcomed Persian-Afghan Restaurant. Back then, the Khyber Restaurant had ceased operating, the Khyber Pass had not yet opened. There was a notch for Sufi, alas they did not last the year.
The Man from Bradford is in town and always keen to try somewhere new. Our last outing together was the excellent Namak Mandi, their Namkeen Karahi will have to be enjoyed some more. In the aftermath, The Ricky questioned if what he ate that day was actually – Curry? No, it was Karahi, authentic Karahi with Minimal Masala. Ricky was willing to trust Hector’s lead, Charsi Lamb Karahi at Shinwari would have to be investigated.
Hector headed across to the South Side ahead of Ricky and Dr. Stan, the plan was to give notice of our Order. The Chap behind the counter, Mein Host, the Chef, was keen to serve us Chicken, I had to make it clear that Lamb Karahi was required. Ricky had asked for Boneless Lamb. The attempted Order was one kilo of Charsi Lamb Karahi (£22.00) and one half kilo of Boneless Charsi Lamb Karahi (£12.00). The Chap quoted £24.00 for the kilo despite me pointing to the price on the leaflet, and the photo above his head. Mixed – he kept saying. Eventually a young chap came forward and explained to the Chef what I desired, and that we would be sitting in. All was well. I stated I would return in an hour.
One Hour Later
Mein Host the Chef was the only staff member present. At 14.10 on a Friday staff are still returning from prayers, I was surprised to see so many at Shinwari when the Order was placed. Bread had to be ordered. The Naan prices are very attractive ranging from 50p to £2.50. Attractive, unless one is from Bradford when one’s choice of Naan is inclusive. A Chilli Nan (£1.00) for Hector – can I have Chilli and Coriander? And Garlic Nan (£1.00) for my fellow diners.
The Inverse Tardis
Shinwari is seemingly much smaller on the inside than it is on the outside. Sufi was much larger than this. Behind the fridge is a blocked off door, what lies beyond? Once there was a Bar and a Lounge Bar, why are we sat in a room which seats twenty four in premises which could sit over a hundred?
Plates, a Salad and a Raita arriving at the table were the signs of the imminent arrival of the food. A Large Karahi was accompanied by the Naans, the Naans looked great. I had seen Mein Host the Chef place the dough in the Tandoor then paint Garlic Paste/Butter over the finished articles. Circular, whole, suitably burnt blisters, a good thickness, light, fluffy, and decent Toppings.
The smaller Karahi was next, Bones. Chef was determined.
Ricky questioned why Dr. Stan and I prefer to have on-the-bone when this means that by weight, one ends up with less meat. He is from Yorkshire. Dr. Stan explained it was all about the extra Flavour which an infusion of Bone Marrow can offer. I admitted that I could not possibly eat a half kilo of Lamb otherwise.
Charsi Lamb Karahi
No Onions are traditionally used in the preparation of this Dish as with Namkeen Karahi. Namkeen uses Salt, Pepper and Chillies only. However, the Charsi is decidedly – Red – so Tomatoes are the key feature.
Peppery – said Dr. Stan from his first intake. Ricky made positive noises, not a disaster then.
I was puzzled by the copious small white flecks throughout the Masala. Could this all be Ginger and Garlic, no Onions?
Having decanted a share from the Large Karahi, I was slightly put off by the watery residue around the Masala. The core of the Masala had a decent Texture, but overall this was – runny. I half expected to hear – Soup – from The Rickmeister, this was far from the Curry we collectively avoid. This was authentic Afghan Cuisine, and was to be respected.
The Spice Level was – Moderate – at best. I had tried to gesture for – above average – when the Bread order was placed. But then, what is – average? The Karahi lacked Seasoning and so one is left to wonder if there was more Flavour possible. Pleasing as the sight was, the Garlic which had been spread across the Chilli and Coriander Nan was intrusive. This is why Hector stopped ordering Garlic Naan.
The Meat was a definite winner. This was as Tender as Lamb can be without heading towards Pulp. We all enjoyed the food.
That were aright – was the Yorkshireman’s verdict.
We can find better – was Hector’s conclusion.
Ricky spotted the – Three Shami Kebabs and Three Nans for £7.00. If one was in a group of three and the Naans could accompany the Mains, this would work.
Qabuli Muicha (£8.00) is an interesting looking Dish. Lamb Shank served on Rice with accompanying Vegetables (including grated Carrot?). Far from the Shorva which tends to accompany a Lamb Shank, this should certainly be worth a try.
The Bill
£39.00 So Chef had his way, again.
The Aftermath
Going to wash the hands, I established that the Lounge Bar is now a Poolroom. Once outside, through the clear glass, Dr. Stan could see that beyond the fridge lies a storeroom, junk.
The Calling Card was given, I doubt if it made any impression. If Shinwari is not to go the way of Sufi, perhaps they have to learn to be more engaging?
In the following hours, when asked about our Charsi Lamb Karahi, the meal appeared to grow in stature. It were better than – aright – by the end of the evening. Any longer and songs would have been sung.
The Curry Capital
Bradford has been wining this title for years, yet Ricky and I both agree that Glasgow is better in terms of Diversity. Tonight, Ricky declared the – Karahi Palace – the best in Glasgow, and better than Bradford Curry. He later detracted – but not in terms of value.
If Glasgow is to regain the title then surely we have to give – its best venues – a chance to shine, not the usual places which just produce – Mainstream Curry.
Last Night
The Rickmeister produced a photo of a Curry House – where’s this?
Zante/Zakynthos – was Hector’s reply – the worst Curry House ever encountered, in Laganas.
Ricky was confident I would know, Dr. Stan nearly fell off his chair.
I did offer to go back the next day to the Taj Mahal and show them how to make a Masala.
Update 2021
At some point since Hector was free to wander the streets of Glasgow, Shinwari has gone.
Update 2023
The name – Shinwari – is back, now on Allison Street. The same Chef is reportedly there.
