It is day three of Hector’s Curry extravaganza on Cheetham Hill Rd. Arriving at Apna Lahori Kebabish (150-152 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester, England M8 8PZ) moments before noon, the shutters were only half open. A Chap from Chappati Corner next door battered on the shutter, open sesame, Hector was in.
Are you open?– was a somewhat rhetorical question.
I was informed by the only Chap seemingly on the premises that there were no staff, I would have to wait ten to fifteen minutes. I took a seat – I’ll wait.
There was plenty of time to take in the surroundings. Six booths each sat about six people, seven at a squeeze. As is the norm in Curry Cafes, the décor was simple.
More staff arrived, the original Chap was busy cleaning the steel trays which would house the prepared Curry. At 12.20 a Chap I hadn’t spotted brought the Menu. For the sake of consistency and comparison, it had to be Punjabi Gosht (£6.49). The Waiter confirmed that this would be on-the-bone. A Naan (£0.75) would accompany.
Just one? Yes.
I was left to wonder why the same Dish served Boneless was only £6.00. More Meat, a smaller price? That the Fish Curry Masala was also £6.00 impressed, too many venues charge a shocking amount for Fish. How can a Fish Curry be more expensive than Meat?
Yet another Chap brought a jug of water and a Modest Salad with Sauces. The latter looked more appropriate for Burgers which are also served here.
Punjabi Gosht
The Masala was closer to Shorva than one would expect, each to their own interpretation. The Topping was Minimal, just a sprinkling of Fresh Coriander. In the Northern Quarter once can help oneself to Coriander, Ginger and Chillies, not here then.
The Naan again did not look like the standard Naan cooked in a Tandoor. The holes suggested that this had been cooked on a Tawa, the Bread had not risen, no puffiness, no burnt bits. This Bread felt closer to a Pitta than a Naan, not the best.
I counted the Meat, well into double figures. Offal, came to mind, the fatty sinews had been left attached to quite a few pieces. I could have used the provided knife and fork to remove these, I ate with the spoon. The first dip of Bread revealed a very Powerful Flavour, and not one of this era. This Masala took me right back to the 1960s, one does not encounter this too often. The Spice Level was certainly adequate, the Seasoning was at the – Brave – end of the spectrum, this I liked, a lot. The Meat was very Soft, this Curry looked nothing like my usual Karahi Gosht, this was an old fashioned Lamb Curry, what we grew up with. What the…? A piece of Meat shocked the palate, Kidney. How did that get in there? Was this deliberate or an oversight.? Either way, this was a first. I studied the fatty connectors, the back side of the ribs had quite a bit of this. Some looked tubular, Offal?
Towards the base of the karahi, the Masala was decidedly Thicker, then I realised this was actually Meat Pulp and very rich in Flavour it was too. A small piece of Cinnamon Bark must have added to this. The Bone count reached three plus a fragment. The presence of Bones is always associated with more Homely Flavours, Desi.
The Bread disappointed, this Curry would have been much better eaten with Rice which I did not see on the Menu. Quirkiness and Shorva apart, this was a memorable Curry, the Flavours were intense, I would certainly have this again.
Whilst I ate, the prepared Curry had been set out. Why put this out so late? They have missed many potential lunchtime customers.
The Bill
£7.25 One cannot complain about the price.
The Aftermath
I introduced myself in the normal manner. The Chap who was clearly in charge instantly warmed to my presence. He smiled when I described the Curry as taking me back in time. He summoned the rest of the staff for a photo.
You are very welcome to come – were his parting words.
