Malta in February, we were taking our chances. Sunday morning was t-shirt weather, since then conditions have declined. The three couples headed towards San Giljan this afternoon independently, thanks to an incessant gale we were all back in Sliema by 15.30.
Hector had located four Curry Houses in St. Julian’s only one of which was open – Saffron – which was decidedly – Pukka. Saffron’s – Machhi Rahra – (€11.50) could well be the Fish Curry Hector seeks. Suruchi and Empire of India also appeared to be attractive prospects.
Our chosen rendezvous this evening was Maharaja (55 Triq Ix – Xatt, Tas-Sliema SLM 1022 Malta) at 19.30. Marg and Hector arrived promptly to secure a table for six. There was space at the door which would not have been an attractive prospect given the continuing draft. The table at the Bar was rotated and seats added at both ends. Menus for six were provided. On realising that half of the tables for four were only occupied by couples, we felt crammed even before the arrival of Les Autres. Marg summoned Mein Host, another small table was added at the end of ours, much better.
Fish Vindaloo (€8.50) was my first choice due to the promise of a – hot thick … sauce. At the time of ordering, I changed my mind on realising that South Indian Fish Curry (€9.50) might be closer to a Chettinad. The only place I spotted Methi on the Menu was Methi Alu (€7.25) in the – Vegetable Garden – section. Side Dishes – it said here, the prices all reflected that of a Vegetable Main Course, there was no discount for a – Side. A somewhat pricey Paratha (€3.75) would complete Hector’s selection.
Marg said she would have Mixed Vegetable Pacoras (€4.25) if she could find someone to share it with. For her Main, Lamb Karahi (€8.75) would be accompanied by a Nan (€2.25).
Steve, Louise, Ian and Ann arrived just after 19.30 and took their places. Steve immediately remarked that he liked the prices. Indeed, the Mains were appreciably less than I had seen at Tuk Tuk (Valletta) yesterday. Ian and Ann would share Mixed Vegetable Pacoras leaving Marg to ask for Louise’s assistance. Steve and Louise decided to invest in Poppadoms (€3.00) which would come as a pair with a Pickle Tray.
Ian declared a Lamb Karahi as did Steve. I suggested to Steve that if three people were having this, it had better be good. This was sufficient motivation for Steve to change to the Bhuna Gosht (€8.75). Steve was initially concerned that their use of the term – Dry – may make it so in the extreme. I convinced him that this was most unlikely in a European Curry House. Louise chose her favoured Lamb Rogan Josh Kashmiri (€7.75), Ann opted for Butter Chicken (€8.75). Two orders of Nan and Pullao Plain (€3.00) would complete the food order, plus – a Portion of Mango Chutney please, now for the Drinks.
The fridge had Bottles of Cobra, and tins of a Pils (ugh) also Martens Gold which was brewed in Belgium. A Belgian – Supermarket Bier – I assumed, I had to try one, Steve and Louse went for Cobra. The Bier prices were not on the Menu, we established later that all Bier was €3.00. Marg asked for a 750ml Bottle of Sparkling Water (€3.00) and managed to sneak in a Glass of Mango Lassi (€3.00). Ian asked for Fresh Orange Juice, whilst Ann found a half Bottle of Red Wine (€6.75) that suited her palate: Carisimi for those who know about that sort of thing. Hector only ever orders Bier with Curry on nights out – to dine, as for Wine, I have yet to be convinced that it is compatible with Curry. Half litre Bottles of Still Water would make appearances at the far end of the end of the table as the meal progressed.
Before the Order was given, Ann wondered if I was sending this to the kitchen directly such was the thoroughness of my note taking. That day may come, the Waitress took the Order on her Pad, we still need the middle man, presently.
By 20.15, Maharaja was full. This was a Tuesday night in winter, one can only wonder what business is like here in the summer. I suspect bookings would be mandatory. Maharaja is not large, a standard shop unit in Malta, it was too busy to take photos. The décor is not OTT, one knew it was a Curry House, Bollywood Movies played incessantly. At least there was no screechy female singing, or is Hector becoming immune?
The Poppadoms were first to arrive accompanied by Lime Pickle, Mango, and Raita.
Too much salt in the Pickle – was Steve’s first take before he devoured it.
Louise added – it tastes as if it has been in the back of Grandma’s cupboard for a while.
Lime Pickle is an acquired taste.
The Pakora looked quite feeble. Seven pieces of something singular in batter. Aubergine, Onion, Paneer, and Spinach were present, a half of the Cheese Pakora came my way, it was – OK. Steve questioned if there was actually any Spice in the batter.
Ann said – the good thing is, they’re not filling, enjoyable Pakora.
A bit thin – added Ian.
Hector was happy to have basically missed out on the Starters. This was not Pakora, this is Pakora, recipe too.
Keema Naan – said the Waitress when she started bringing the Bread. Nobody had ordered one, it was placed in front of Steve and Louise. The Paratha came eventually, after everyone had received their Mains, Hector was therefore last to start eating. The Menu clearly says – Layered – in the description of Paratha. I looked and saw no layers.
The Paratha was Pale and could have done with much more firing. Soft– was the only box ticked. It was Thin, showed no sign of layering and was decidedly not Flaky. This quite simply was not a Paratha. Comparing this with the Naan showed little difference, they too were – Thin and Peely Wally. The Bread was therefore a major disappointment. The two Portions of Rice came on one platter, there was enough for everyone who desired it. Rice may well be the better option at Maharaja.
Lamb Karahi
First impressions were quite pleasing, this had the desired Thick and Minimal Masala, however, Hector spotted the – dreaded green ballast – protruding from the Curry. It was full of Capsicum and had big blobs of Onion. Marg had to admit that she had not asked for the Capsicum to be withheld as she would normally do. She hates big pieces of Onion also, how many times has she fallen foul of this? On any other day, Hector may well have been tempted by the presence of Lamb Karahi on the Menu, mine would hopefully have been served without the Ballast, – add another Vegetable, any – is the customary challenge.
There were positives, the Meat was declared Tender by both Marg and Ian. The Flavours were to their liking. A piece of Marg’s Lamb came my way, fine, more Seasoning required perhaps. The Spice Level was not a challenge.
Ian had expected his Karahi to be served in a karahi. He did accept that it may have been cooked in one. His words:
It was good, a good balance of flavours and spices. Could have had more meat than the green peppers.
That Marg left half a bowl of – Ballast – says it all.
Butter Chicken
The red tinges on the Meat made me wonder if this was Chicken Tikka. Hector had not studied the Chicken section of the Menu. This Butter Chicken looked exactly like the Curry which Hector eschews – Soup! Chicken Soup at that. Each to their own. Here was the Creamy Masala which is loved by so many, Ann included:
Superb, spicy sauce, not too creamy, fantastic, flavoursome, better than the UK.
I had to express my surprise at the latter observation, Ann toned it down quite a bit:
Helensburgh.
Lamb Rogan Josh Kashmiri
There are typically two main interpretations of Rogan Josh, the Tomato-rich version which has been around since the 1970s and the Creamy version which materialised in the last twenty years or so. This was version #3. The Brown Masala surprised, it appeared to have a reasonable level of viscosity, a marked improvement on that described immediately above. Hector would have to set the challenge – in what way was this a Rogan Josh?
Louise’s verdict:
Lacking in tomato for a Rogan Josh, a lot of aniseed flavour. The presence of Aniseed was taken to be a negative. Louise continued:
Enjoyable, and the meat was very tender.
Bhuna Gosht
This is the Curry Hector would have ordered had the Fish not been the distraction.
Here was a slightly lighter Brown Masala whose Thickness was comparable to a Rara Gosht. There was still more Masala than Hector would expect in a Bhuna, at least Steve’s fear that it may have been served – Too Dry – had been averted… as Hector predicted. Steve’s description:
Tender meat, I requested spicy and it was spicy. Aniseed flavour, which I liked, good consistency of spices.
South Indian Fish Curry
The Masala was a lighter Brown still, approaching yellow, and as Soupy as I have sadly come to expect. The Quantity of Fish did not initially appear to be much. As I decanted the Fish and Masala to the cool plate I accepted that the Quantity was sufficient. Normally I would have eaten straight from the bowl, but the presence of the Side Dish made this necessary.
Marg got there first and dipped some Naan in the Masala:
I think you’re going to like this – exclaimed Marg whilst I was still taking photos. It had the required – Smoky Aroma.
Methi Alu
How happy was Hector when this was placed on the table? This was most certainly amongst the most impressive sights ever, a plateful of Potato thickly coated in Herbs, Hector had his Methi. Some appeared to be cooked in, some sprinkled on top, a double whammy, Excellent. The only problem, it was not piping hot when it arrived and would cool too quickly. How I needed a tea-light heater.
The Fish was – Rubbery – as Monkfish (was it?) tends to be served. Where was the favoured Tilapia? This Curry was all about the Masala, a beautifully blended Smoky – Chettinad-flavoured – masterpiece. 
This was everything I did not manage to create in my own kitchen last week, or experience yesterday at Tuk Tuk (Valletta). The Menu description quoted both Coconut (Milk), which I am loath to add to a Curry, and Tamarind which I normally do. Perhaps these are the keys to the Chettinad Kingdom? Given the Soupy nature of the Masala, Rice would logically have been the more sensible accompaniment. Hector had his Methi. One could have mashed the Potato, no way, the Herb coverage was immense, let’s see it. This Aloo Methi was worth the admission price alone. When the Fish had gone the Chettinad Masala and the Methi-shrouded Potato became a Dish in its own right. It was at this point that Marg gave me two pieces of Lamb from her Karahi, there was a momentary – Lamb Chettinad. Everyone had finished, Hector was still savouring the moment. What a combination: simple Meat and Masala had been avoided, here was the confirmation regarding what is written oft in Curry-Heute, one needs an – Interesting Vegetable – to have this Quantity of Methi was simply sublime.
One likes to try new venues in the hope of discovering somewhere that truly impresses, the Chef at Maharaja had just achieved this.
Rowing Jack (Ale Browar, Polska) was calling, no time for Coffee this evening.
The Bill
€121.95 (£106.97) An astonishing €31.75 was for the Bar Bill, over €5.00 each! We were here to dine, we had.
The Aftermath
Maharaja was still very busy, I knew there would be little opperchancity for discourse with Mein Host, the Calling Card was presented. There was an appreciation that the writer of a Curry Blog was here. It was the Waitress who appeared to understand the writing on the Calling Card – Curry-Heute. Regardless of the criticisms above, the Ballast, and the Bread in particular, Hector had been served a wonderful combination of Masala and Aloo Methi, not by chance but by design. Ann came up to the counter to address Mein Host also, her appreciation of the Butter Chicken was relayed.
There may well be Curry at Maharaja for all, perhaps one should avoid the Bread presently.
Maharaja Menu Extracts
