San Giljan – Suruchi Indian Restaurant – The Fourth Malta Curry House Reviewed

The Curry Houses of Malta are mainly clustered on the adjacent peninsulas of Sliema and San Giljan (St. Julian’s). It would have been remiss of Hector not to have a Curry here. The reconnaissance was done two days ago when I managed to open the door to Suruchi Indian Restaurant (Triq Ball, 35, San Giljan Malta) even though it was apparent that they were not open. The same Chap who was glad to tell me they were closed on Tuesday told me that it would be another ten minutes before they were opening today. Having arrived at 12.20 for the advertised noon opening, Hector was going nowhere. A seat at a table was taken:

I’ll wait.

The very colourful Menu was provided, in fact the whole room seemed very colourful. The picture of the Taj Mahal reminded me of the Scottish flag, what was that about? Plates adorned the wall, each commemorating an award for a specific year. There was a small plate for 2019 already. Who wins Awards?

There was an annoying noise. The fridge.

Hector was waiting patiently having already made up his mind. A young lady entered and had a somewhat lengthy conversation with the now two Chaps about hours and pay, none of my business.

The Chicken section of the Menu was extensive. All the Curry Menus I have seen in Malta have featured Beef and Lamb, the latter always being more expensive. Chicken Karahi and Beef Karahi were both available, even King Prawn Karahi (€17.50), no Lamb Karahi.

I considered Rogan Josh (€11.95) but the mention of – Yoghurt – put me off, I prefer the Traditional Tomato-rich interpretation. Bhuna Gosht (€11.95) it would be accompanied by a Plain Naan (€3.50). No way was I paying the asking price for Rice. €3.50 for a Roti was also ridiculous.

The given description for Bhuna Gosht avoided the – Dreaded Ballast – however, I was taking no chances:

No Green Peppers in the Bhuna?

Yes, green peppers.

No Green Peppers.

The Spice Level was discussed, despite the Waiter’s warning, Hector would go for – Hot-Spicy.

A 250ml Bottle of Sparkling Water (€1.50) completed the Order.

Great Delight – and – Happiness – is how – Suruchi – translates into English. Here’s hoping.

Bhuna Gosht

A very Soupy looking Curry was presented. The Masala at least had a gloopy consistency. The single strand of Ginger was commensurate with the modest Toppings which have been a feature of Curry in Malta this week. I could not see the Meat initially and so had no idea how much there was of it. I was settling down to my Soupy Curry when Marg walked in.

Marg had taken herself for Coffee at a nearby venue. The Coffee was not served hot enough, unacceptable. Marg was here sooner than she planned and in time to take a photo.

Marg spotted the Thin and Crispy Naan. She was of the opinion that this was better than the Thicker, more Doughy, Traditional Tandoori Naan. I disagreed, but then found myself eating the entire Naan, and there was a lot of it. It was a pity that it had to be served in so many pieces.

The Bhuna Gosht had been served suitably Hot in temperature. As is my norm, I would eat from the metal pot rather than decant to the provided plate. The Blended, Creamy Masala was decidedly – Spicy. I made no note regarding the Seasoning and so concluded this was not an issue. The Lamb had been cut mostly small, I counted each piece as I encountered it, eventually double figures were reached. There was enough Meat in the Masala, though the latter may well have been excessive. I could taste the Flavour of the Lamb itself but little more. There was nothing outstanding about this Curry in terms of Flavour. Towards the end I bit into a piece of Aniseed, at last, something to come to terms with, a variation from the monotony.

All four Curry Houses visited in Malta this week have been very much in the Mainstream. Maharaja was the standout in terms of Flavour. If these four venues are a representative cross section of Curry in Malta, then there is not really much to become excited about. There is always the Tandoori option, but Grill Houses are aplenty in the Mediterranean.

The Bill

16.95 (£14.87) An OK price, however, beware of the price of Rice unless sharing.

The Aftermath

Cards were exchanged. When asked how I found the Curry I had to accentuate the positives.

It was Spicy as you said, and I enjoyed finding the Aniseed.

As I departed, I was already looking forward to my next Curry, back in Glasgow.

And so Marg and Hector headed to the south coast of Malta to visit Hagar Qim, standing stones which date back some five and a half thousand years.

Menu Extracts

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