Mark the date, Scotland moved to Level 3 of Lockdown this very day, restaurants can once again serve food indoors unlike England where al fresco maintains. However, a somewhat arbitrary 20.00 curfew is in force. It is Ramadan, and so for the many who share Hector’s love of Pakistani Cuisine, there will have to be a wait until the middle of next month to dine out. Who plans these things?
Last week, Zaheer, Mein Host at Ambala (11 Forth St., Glasgow, Scotland, G41 2SP) posted an intriguing photo of Lamb Saag. Unlike the Chicken Saag which has previously appeared in these pages, this was clearly Lamb cooked in a minimal Masala with added Spinach, not the mass of – green – which some one in Hector’s company once ordered. Zaheer was contacted, it was confirmed that the desired interpretation would be available this afternoon for Hector and Marg’s first sit in meal in five months and six days.
On the drive to the Southside it felt as if Radio Scotland, and all featured therein, were trying to rewrite history. The oft repeated reference point for the start of Lockdown kept being given as Boxing Day. November 20th was the last day in which restaurants in the West of Scotland served food other than for Takeaway, thus affecting the majority of the Scottish population. Pubs closed on October 9th (?), so what is all this Boxing Day nonsense?
We arrived at Ambala at 15.00, the shutters were down, the door partially open. The mystery man who sits in the window assured me they would be open at 16.00. Marg was not perturbed, coffee in her favourite Shawlands cafe was called for. Returning just after 16.00, the shutters were up, however it was now suggested that food would not be served, other than for Takeaway, until 17.00. Fortunately Zaheer arrived moments later, we were invited to take our choice of table.
I can now confirm that it was indeed Zaheer whom Marg chatted with on collecting our most recent Takeaway earlier this month. Today was the first time I have seen Zaheer in years, I had some questions, however, food matters were dealt with first.
The Lamb Saag was a given, Zaheer suggested the kilo. I had warned Marg that this might be the case, she would have been happy to share. When the half kilo was suggested it was a case of – now we’re sucking diesel. This let Marg have her favourite Keema Mutter served here as Keema Karahi (£9.50). Two Chapattis (£1.30) were deemed to be sufficient accompaniments.
Although Zaheer and Hector are frequently in contact through mutual – likes – on a certain social medium, this was the first opperchancity to congratulate Zaheer in person for the huge step up in the quality of the Desi Fayre. Such was the degree improvement in the Lamb Lahori Chaska last year from excellent to beyond belief, it became clear there was a new Chef was at Ambala. I was told that Chef Rizwan from Lahore, worked with his father from the age of eight, and absorbed all.
The shop frontage also changed a while back – Deli Bar – having been dropped in favour of – Pakistani Cuisine. Apparently the locals misunderstood the previous moniker, thoughts of – pastrami on rye? Maybe not. Having clarified what’s on offer, sales of Curry have increased significantly. Hopefully, the ultra positive reviews on Curry-Heute in the past year may also have helped in some way.
Zaheer brought a platter of Complimentary Starters. Whilst this was being appreciated, I congratulated myself for not ordering a Chilli & Coriander Naan despite my desire for a freshly made Tandoori Naan.
Shami Kebabs and Meat Samosas were accompanied by a Salad and Dips. The Shami had the traditional dry-moistness, the Chilli Dip brought it to life and enhanced the earthy flavour. Marg was already enthusing about her Samosa:
I’ll tell you, the Samosa is lovely, very flavoursome, full of meat.
In this company, Marg is the Samosa expert, this being her preferred snack when Hector dines in foreign lands. The Samsosas were huge and jam packed with Keema and Peas, for Marg a sample of what was to come. Meanwhile, here was a Keema Mutter Pasty. Zaheer, who would check on our progress throughout our visit, declared his pride at the quality of Lamb, and hence Mince as served at Ambala.
Two other sit-in customers arrived, Zaheer was surprised that he had any with more than two weeks of Ramadan to go.
The Mains arrived just as we had finished the Starters. The folded Chapatis looked fairly nondescript in the basket, however, on opening them up, they proved to be large, and wholesome.
Lamb Saag – Saag Goshat
Sliced, Large Green Chillies and Ginger Strips topped a somewhat – grey – mass of Lamb on-the-bone. The lack of – red – brought – Namkeen – to mind. That – green – was not the dominant colour put this interpretation firmly in Hector’s preferred style. The Minimal and Thick Masala sat mostly beneath the Meat. The Oil, which had separated, formed a ring around the solids. Time for the first dip of the Chapatti.
Oh, sen-sational! There was intense Flavour, Seasoning then – cough! The food was delightfully – Hot! Here it was, everything that Hector has been denied all these months, fresh Curry straight from kitchen to the karahi, no reheating, no condensation having formed in the takeaway container ruining the food. I invited Marg to have a go, she also could tell this was something extra special.
The Lamb was on-the-bone, somehow both firm and tender, much chewing was required, each mouthful to be savoured. The Green Chillies, both raw and cooked in, enhanced the Flavour from the Masala. Cloves, Pepperiness, an Oily blast then another blast of Flavour from the Herbs. The taste of the Lamb itself came over strongly, a Dish of such complexity, and it stayed hot.
I took my time, I would eat every morsel, why rush? I was eating out. In my domestic karahi the food would have cooled rapidly, however, such was the thickness of the karahi here, the food stayed hot-warm for the duration.
Loads of Meat, yet the bone count was not as much as originally suspected. The bones had worked their magic in the brew. This Curry was like nothing else ever experienced at Ambala. Had I not seen the promotional photo I would never have opted for this. What other Dishes have reached this level, the Fish Karahi?
Keema Karahi
The portion was huge. Ginger Strips and a sprinkling of Coriander topped the Mince and Peas. The Spice Level had been pitched at – medium – to suit Marg, for once there was no remark of concern.
The sufficiency of moistness stood out, but no obvious Masala otherwise and no peripheral Oil. Having enjoyed the Samosa, we both knew how good this was.
Very rich and full of flavour, with an added touch of coriander and ginger strips on the top. I avoided the chunks of green chilli as I felt there was enough spice without this extra. The Chapatti was a perfect size and the heat made the meal very enjoyable.
The Starters meant that Marg would never finish what lay before her. Zaheer chose his moment to wheech Marg’s leftovers away for packing. This will be enjoyed on another day.
The Bill
£23.09 I was surprised at how little I had paid for my Saag Goshat, yet there it was on the Menu at this very price.
The Aftermath
I asked Zaheer if there would be a new Menu, I always seem to ask him this. In time there shall be. As we bade farewell Zaheer stated that he looked forward to following me on my travels once more. In a week we have gone from not being able to leave our county to being able to travel around the UK. Last summer’s trips south could well be the model for 2021.