Glasgow – Original Khyber – Plus a tour of favourite Southside venues, because now I can

Posted on April 16, 2021 by Hector

Friday, April 16

When our First Minister aka – Jimmy Krankie – announced earlier in the week that one could finally cross a county boundary without fear of challenge or penalty, there was an audible cheer in Hector’s House. Ironically, the constituency of the aforementioned is where the majority of Glasgow’s – Desi Cuisine – is served with Shawlands and Cathcart marking the southern limit.

Curryspondent Stewart informed me towards the end of last year that the chaps who founded – The Khyber – Glasgow’s first Afghani Restaurant on St. Andrew’s Drive, had started again as Original Khyber (69 Kilmarnock Rd., Glasgow G41 3YR) in Shawlands. The Khyber eventually became Khyber Pass featuring staff from the short lived Afghan Village at Strathbungo. Namak Mandi appeared in Laurieston, also serving Afghani Cuisine. In the meantime, Sufi/Shinwari on Langside Rd. didn’t last long. With presently three Afghan outlets on Glasgow’s Southside, there must be a demand.

The Menu at Original Khyber is similar to that at Namak Mandi with both Charsi and Namkeen Karahi featuring prominently. My online order today was half kilos of Lamb Charsi Karahi (£12.50) and Namkeen Karahi (£13.00). A single Roghni Naan (£1.99) completed the Order. I still had a Chapatti for Marg left over from Taj Dumbarton. The Namkeen Karahi was ordered especially for Marg.

The Bill

£25.24. A discount then a service charge, so it goes.

Knowing, hoping, that this would not be the advertised twenty minute job, I gave an hour’s notice. En route to the city my phone kept ringing, an unknown number. At the third attempt, I managed to pull over and take the call. I was advised that my Namkeen Karahi would take ninety minutes to prepare, 16.00 became the collection time. This was not a problem, Hector had a complex agenda.

My local (Garscadden) Asian grocer has a limited stock. KRK in the West End was therefore my first port of call. Who knows how long the new facade has been in situ. I told the chap serving, as I would tell everyone today, this was my first visit in some five months. The Coriander here is always fresh. TV Chef, Nadia, has extolled the benefits of adding Jackfruit to well, anything. Always on the lookout for an Interesting Vegetable, a couple of tins were added to my basket.

Across the river, something one used to take for granted, I parked off Allison Street. This is Hector’s playground. Curryspondent Archie had told me that – Desi Cafe – had been re-branded as – Darbar.

When I last spoke to Ahmed in August 2019, he gave me a preview of his new Menu. Ahmed also hinted at a possible change of name for his premises which had been separated from Desi-Curry Palace next door for some years.

On entering – Darbar – the room had been cleared, I did not recognise the chap serving. However, at the rear of the premises sat Ahmed. Despite masks, there was instant recognition. Ahmed confirmed that he will be ready to get things going again properly on April 26 when the next phase of liberation from Lockdown commences. The kilo of Lamb Karahi (£29.99) served here has yet to be experienced, the White Chicken Karahi (£17.99) has previously be enjoyed. Maybe I’ll sample the ready-fayre and negotiate a half kilo for a later date?

Sheerin Palace next, a couple stood in the doorway waiting for their order, a barrier blocked the entrance to the premises otherwise, as per present requirements. A mother and child stood outside. Takeaway is the bulk of business at Sheerin Palace so they cannot have been affected badly by the difficulties of the past year. On taking my place outside, I spotted some very seductive Keema Aloo, Marg’s favourite.

The serving chap saw me through the window and smiled, Hector was recognised. His partner exited the premises, I established that Kofta Anda continues to be available on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Soon, a portion of cold Keema Aloo was packed for Takeaway.

The Bill

£5.50 Cash only.

I shall be here for lunch on April 28, a Wednesday.

Back along Allison Street, Spice Haven had three chaps behind the counter, none of whom I recognised initially, then the tallest chap looked familiar. As we we both monetarily dropped our masks, he admitted to having worked round the corner at Kebabish Grill. There was no sign of Asif, Mein Host, time will tell if he is still present. On a certain social medium, Spice Haven have quite a presence, they are investing heavily in advertising. The last time I was here was November 16 last year, the day before restrictions on movement were announced once again.

As I walked into Calder Street, a familiar face was walking towards me. On dropping my mask, Mr. Anwar Sr. of Yadgar may have been surprised to see me. We chatted mostly about the interior renovations.

New bench seating will run along the long wall, hopefully the tables will accommodate this. Yadgar will reopen fully after Ramadan.

Naveed was in his spot, where else? I asked what Vegetable Dishes were available. Aloo Gobi and Aubergine Curry were today’s specials. Yadgar’s Aloo Gobi, Mmmm. Naveed said he was putting a couple of Chapli Kebabs in the bag also, along with some Kheer. He has acquired Shkoor’s determination to have Hector eat Dessert, we’ll see.

I note the bag shows the full name – Yadgar Kebab House – I was wondering if the title had been shortened as per the signage outside. For the fifth time today I told the story of being trapped in West Dunbartonshire all these months. There had to be a photo, Naveed obliged, his colleague was taken aback, so a bit of editing required, just in case.

The Bill

£5.00 Didn’t Hector do well?

Remember Original Khyber, the main reason why I was out and about today? I parked in the Shawlands Arcade car park, as I did every week until March last year for lunch with Mother. Original Khyber is next door to a Curry House which Hector is unlikely ever to visit, Nepalese cooked Curry has never impressed.

It was 16.03, the finishing touches were being applied, there was time to engage the staff in conversation. I showed a photo of the chap who was Mein Host at The Khyber, he wasn’t recognised. My attention was drawn to Chef who is also the main man here. There had to be a photo. Chef seemed familiar. At The Khyber, the kitchen was not open, so from there is unlikely. Has he worked at Namak Mandi?

I have many questions, these may be answered eventually. Being in Shawlands, I drove home along the perimeter of Pollok Estate and so still cannot establish of DumPukht Lahori at Paisley Rd. Toll is still in operation. Then there’s the mysterious new venue at Eglinton Toll – Desi Dhabba. I have yet to find this place open.

On reaching home I weighed both containers, each was over 700g which goes some way to answering the question: is a half kilo a half kilo of Curry or Meat? As is my custom, the food was reheated for some twenty minutes. Both Dishes had Ginger Strips, the Charsi had but a modest sprinkling of a Herb so today’s foliage was more Coriander.

When Chef removed the Roghni Naan from the Tandoor, I marvelled at the size. Bread at Original Khyber is for sharing. The Naan was quartered for packing purposes, each piece was substantial. With Sesame Seeds and the central perforations, this was a classic example of the genre. Still soft after reheating, this was a good choice.

Lamb Charsi Karahi The abundant Lamb, served on-the-bone as advertised, sat in a red Shorva-esque Masala. In time Oil collected along the periphery of the karahi. The – red – I deduced was due to a Tomato Base. Watery, I have no other word to describe this Masala, a marked difference from a Lahori Karahi Gosht.

The Flavour of the Lamb itself was prominent, then the distinctive Tomato. The Spice Level and Seasoning were – Moderate. So Tender was the Lamb, this would be very easy to eat. The Flavour was familiar, as was the appearance, this was essentially the same Charsi as served at Namak Mandi. Same Chef?

Pleasant – as this – Curry – was, I knew there was even better food on the table.

Namkeen Karahi

Absolutely no – Red – here, this was true to the style. Salt and Black Pepper, Stock & Oil, simples. Quite a slick of Oil collected around the periphery of the karahi as the Meat lay for a few minutes. There was no Masala as such, and the liquid was too thin to even be classed as a – gravy. Here the Seasoning was stunning, the Namkeen was quite a step up from the Charsi. Salt, Pepper and Lamb, three Flavours, such a simple creation, allegedly, yet at the hands of a master, something to certainly be experienced.

Marg remarked on the quality and taste of the Lamb. The Spice Level was well within her established parameters. The – pepperiness – was appreciated as was the fact that one cannot source Curry anything like this north of the River Clyde.

Monday, April 19

Aloo Gobi from Yadgar, Keema Aloo from Sheerin Palace, the beginnings of a meal. For many this would be enough, however, Hector had a burning desire to try something new. Prior to the announcement of Friday’s lifting of travel restrictions, an order for two Curry Pastes from Aagrah (Shipley, Bradford) had been placed. Ordering two jars only proved not to be economical, but then, bringing the taste of Bradford to Scotland is always a temptation.

Whilst the Glasgow Curry was reheating, the jar of Aagrah – Handi – was opened. The paste looked wonderful, an oily blend of Spice. The given instructions were junk. Serves 4 – says the label. Step 1 – add 400g of your chosen meat/vegetables. How can this feed four? Furthermore the Meat would be magically cooked according to Step 2. Cooking Lamb from scratch would clearly be nonsensical. No added Onion? So one is going to end up with just Meat in a Sauce?

With 200g of leftover (defrosted) cooked Lamb, I used half of the jar. All looked well until the water was added, Ted Hastings would have a remark or two to make here. The surplus liquid had to be boiled off, this took the full reheating time for the other Dishes. What looked like – Curry – before the water was added ended up as Meat in Gravy. Meanwhile, Marg has fetched two Chapattis (£1.10) from Saffron (Yoker) on her way home for an early dinner.

We had a banquet, OK, mini buffet.

Aagrah – Lamb Handi

The Lamb was wonderful having been slow roasted by Hector some weeks back. The sauce actually tasted damn good! The Spice Level was decent, the Seasoning was high on Hector’s scale of approval. The Bradford Curry taste was not there, but this was distinctive in its own right.

Following the spurious instructions, the remaining contents of the jar should surely produce a worthy Fish Curry.

Sheerin Palace – Keema Aloo

I have seen many a – Dry – Keema, this was exceptional. Yet, in no way was this Curry dry on the palate. The Mince was scooped on to the Chapatti, quite a kick, and packed full of Flavour. One wouldn’t expect anything less from Sheerin Palace. Marg was forced to make her customary comment on the Spice Level. The pieces of Potato were unusually large, cooked to perfection, the Flavours had been absorbed here also. I unearthed something alien, a piece of Lamb Rib shrouded in Meat. I suspect this had been added to give the overall Flavour a boost, sneaky.

Yadgar – Aloo Gobi

Both halves of our plates were effectively covered in Potato, yet left and right were markedly different. The unique Yadgar Taste was present in their – Aloo – always a joyful experience. The Cauliflower offered a Diversity of Texture. That this was the first of the three karahi to empty says it all. Once again Marg identified this Curry as being a source of the assault by Spice she was sensing. Bring it on!