Aberdeen (Bridge of Don) – Shish Tandoori – Somewhere & Something New

At the start of November, Curryspondent Archie headed to Bridge of Don on my recommendation, the objective was Shri Bheema’s, however, his taxi driver dropped him prematurely at Shish Tandoori (9 Ellon Rd, Bridge of Don, Aberdeen AB23 8EB). Archie’s reports were favourable, meanwhile it appears that this branch of Shri Bheema’s has gone. More on this on Boxing Day. Yes, the reward for being Chef tomorrow, is an abundance of Curry either side of the festive day chosen to mark the winter solstice.

We took a chance and turned up at 19.00 without having phoned to check there was space. Around a dozen customers were present, scattered across the restaurant which occupies part of the building which makes up The Brig Inn, also a hotel. I/we didn’t know this, yet we have passed this building oft on our way to Shri Bheema’s.

A young waiter brought the menu then returned soon after, keen to take the drinks order. Only 330ml bottles (£2.30) of Sparkling Water were available – two please.

We took our time studying the menu, such were the number of Dishes featuring – peppers – I wondered why I had come. Marg found Lamb Balti (£10.95) on a page I had bypassed. She declared her intention to have Rice. I got to suggest Mushroom Rice (£3.95). Under – Something New – were two Dishes which did not mention – peppers. In this section, Lamb Curry, various, was £11.25. Ghaly Masala featured Cashew Nuts and Coconut yet had a three Chilli rating. Was this in effect a Spicy Korma? I would ask. Lamb Budda featured a rich sauce and vintage port. In what way was this sauce – richer – than any other on the menu?

The waiter was not ready for my interrogation. On mentioning Ghaly Masala, he started writing this down. I had to stop him and ask again what sort of Masala this was. He went off to consult and returned with – creamy. Strike one. On enquiring about the – rich sauce – in the Lamb Budda, he told me the Lamb had been cooked in the sauce. Well I bloody well hope so – is the phrase which was withheld. Hector was firmly back in the land of the – Mainstream – no – Desi – here. In time the word – thick – was used to describe the sauce, but only after I had introduced – Soupy – as a possible description. Lamb Budda it would be – without peppers – in either Curry.  I did have Achari Balti (£11.25) as a fallback, even though this was from the – Tikka – section of the menu.

There was no Coriander Naan on the menu. Given that I would be sharing, I stopped short of asking for Chilli & Coriander. The waiter took this in his stride. A Garlic Chilli Naan (£4.25) was my guide to pricing. Cue a rant later, possibly, about the price of Bread in Aberdoom. No, I’ll start already, £2.95 for one Tandoori Chapati, these chaps have to go to Bradford, i.e. – the real world.

Whilst I waited for people to depart in order to secure photos of the layout of the restaurant, Marg became concerned that the family behind me had not received their food. We heard an apology for the delay and the offer of complimentary drinks. Marg then realised that she recognised the mother. This was Fiona, daughter of Dr. Alasdair, who has featured oft in these pages. As Marg went over to renew the acquaintance, so I found the post from xmas 2016 when I cooked Curry for the people of Carnoustie and Fiona in turn cooked a Spicy Korma.

At 19.30, hot plates were brought to the table. Later, two more bottles of Sparkling Water were brought. On pointing out that we hadn’t ordered these, the waiter returned to confirm – on the house. ‘Tis the season to be jolly, allegedly.

Mein Host, Joe, brought the Order, we had picked his name up already.

The Mushroom Rice was enough to share, just. With Spices mixed through along with Coriander Stems, this was quite a complex affair. Marg would later comment on the Flavours from the Rice, whilst I assured myself the Mushrooms were not tinned. 

The Coriander Naan was a joy to behold. At last, Hector was presented with a Teardrop Naan, one that had seen a Tandoor. Served whole and suitably – Thick – puffy, with burnt blisters, this was the closest to the idyll I have seen in yonks. It was topped with Coriander leaves and stems only, Chef had kept the Garlic well away. No needless buttery sheen here. It was a bit on the small side, such that every piece would be eaten. This Naan had the doughiness which I prefer, Marg still managed to enjoy the thinner interior.

Lamb Budda

As I intrinsically knew when I saw the Masala in the Lamb Curry at The Mosque Kitchen (Edinburgh) earlier this week, the – rich sauce – here oozed quality. This was a cut above the standard Mainstream Blended Masala. I counted the Meat into double figures as I decanted. Most of the Lamb would subsequently be halved, a decent portion. Two wedges of Tomato had been introduced near the point of serving. I always enjoy half-cooked Tomatoes.

On tearing off the pointy bit, my favourite part of the Naan, and dipping it into the leftover Masala, I was instantly impressed. Not quite – Desi Flavours – but still an excellent depth, way beyond what I had expected at the point of ordering. This was decidedly – Mainstream plus.

The Lamb Budda has a two Chilli rating – Madras – was given in the guide elsewhere on the menu. I would call it a – Medium – Spice Level, never challenging, enough to know it was – Indian Fayre. With the amount of Flavour present, there was really no need for more heat, however, had I ordered Chilli on my Naan, well who knows? As we shall see, Marg did alter the Spice Level of my Curry. The Seasoning was as I hope for, not what usually comes. Lamb Budda, so far so good.

The Lamb was very well cooked, somewhere between Tender and Soft. The – Earthy Flavours – emanating from the Meat were markedly different from those in the Masala. So, what did the waiter know? Whatever, the Flavours from the Lamb complemented those of the Masala. Ah, the Port! I hadn’t tasted anything to suggest that alcohol had been added. Had Chef stirred the Port into the Lamb as he assembled the Dish? Lamb Budda, excellent!

Lamb Balti

The Masala here was decidedly paler than the above, but had the same blended consistency. Sliced Green Chillies had been stirred in, pieces of which merrily crossed the table. Merrily? Calm, Hector, you’ll be using – joyful – and – triumphant – next. I took a Soupçon of the Masala for comparison purposes.

Sweeter, and with a hint of Pickle – I said to Marg as I realised that these two parameters were contradictory. This was clearly a unique interpretation of – Balti.

Marg – Tender lamb in a thick masala, a good hint of pickle. It went well with with the Mushroom Rice which seemed to offer more than …. just being Rice. A very enjoyable meal.

Every grain of Rice was eaten, the entire Naan too, which is unheard of. Plates were wiped clean. Joe came over to join us on seeing we were finished. He apologised for the wait, the Complimentary Drinks were a consequence of this, a large Takeaway had delayed matters. Here was the opperchancity to introduce Curry-Heute. I congratulated Joe on the quality of his Curry. That we knew Fiona and family was revealed. Indeed the next couple to depart made a point of chatting also, Shish Tandoori has its enthusiastic regulars.

The Bill

£34.25 I noted the Coriander Naan had been charged at the price of a Plain Naan (£3.50).

The Aftermath

Mein Host offered us Liqueurs, graciously declined, who drinks alcohol at this time of year? He went on to describe the composition of the premises: restaurant, bar and hotel and that he has been here for seventeen years. He will have a full house tomorrow, even allowing for some late minute cancellations. Shish Tandoori was described as being part of a village community, indeed, they have seen off the local competition with Shri Bheema having retreated to their original premises on Belmont Street in the heart of Aberdeen.

Our attention returned to Fiona et al. They described Shish Tandoori as being their favourite Aberdeen Curry House. Echt Tandoori they have been out to and enjoyed, also, Lochnagar Indian Brasserie (Ballater) comes highly recommended. That is one for a summer’s evening. Bring on the next solstice.

Menu extracts