Having become aware of the opening of Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen (186 West Regent St, Glasgow, G2 4RU) it was only on closer examination that I noted this was an indirect replacement for Babu – Bombay Street Kitchen which closed back in 2019. The latter now appears to be operating as a pop-up at The Arches and in Shawlands, although this will have to be verified.
I arrived at Bombaywalla at 14.30 to be greeted by Mein Host at the door. I would be the only diner at the venue which has been opened for three months. Having already studied the menu online, I knew the Curry choices were limited. In Lamb it was either Keema Matar (£9.95) or Lamb Kolhapuri (£9.95). Seabass Malabar (£11.95) is definitely one for the future.
I asked which Vegetables were in the Mixed Veggies Biryani (£8.50). Mein Host listed: Carrots, Broccoli, Peas and Cabbage. It was confirmed that there would be no Capsicum in either the Biryani or the Kolhapuri, all was set. Yes, Hector was in effect ordering two main courses. The prices were right, and after the Tapas at Roti of Edinburgh on Wednesday, and the decidedly modest Lamb Curry at Desi Dhaba Chaiwala on Monday, Hector was determined to be fed. That a Curry with Coconut was being ordered, is always a risk. Hopefully it would be close to a Chettinad, which for reasons unknown, outside of München, is always served – Soupy.
A Glass of Tap Water was provided, no Sparkling Water was available. Mein Host then offered Coffee whilst I waited, gracefully declined.
The counter, which took up much of the basement premises in the time of Babu, has gone, creating a much larger seating area. Twenty diners can be comfortably accommodated, though one expects that much of the business here will be Takeaway. Mein Host acknowledged that people still working from home is not helping him establish Bombaywalla. In time, surely people will phone in their lunch orders.
A substantial bowl of Raita was provided, in the end I did not need to touch it. Had I ordered from other parts of the menu, this would have been a useful accompaniment. Hector was here for Curry, not Street Food.
As the food was arranged on the table, so I was asked if I was a food photographer. It was time to introduce myself:
No, I’m a Curry blogger.
The Calling Card was duly presented.
Mixed Veggies Biryani
Topped with Fried Onions, Tarka, I additionally found Aubergine, Green Beans, Cauliflower and a Green Cardamom. It may have taken a couple of weeks since I had my heart set on this at Taste of Pakistan (Lisboa), but here it was, a truly worthy Vegetable Biryani. The Rice was suitably moist, the Dish had its own identity. I don’t know how others regard Biryani, but the Vegetable version is surely the ultimate accompaniment for Curry when Rice is required? What ever happened to the Glasgow custom of serving Biryani with a Curry Sauce? I note that Bombaywalla have a Masala Rice (£2.75), I must enquire when I return to try the Seabass Malabar.
The portion was substantial, that I have just written these four words, reflects the level of satisfaction. I decanted as much Rice as I knew I could manage, sadly there would be waste.
*
Lamb Kolhapuri
Topped with Ginger Strips and some Coriander, the Curry featured a mass of blended, Soupy Masala. This was very much expected, and distant from my usual Karahi Gosht. Today, I knew I was having – Curry – and so had chosen to wear my – Curry hat.
I decanted the Meat and enough Masala to create the perfect photo opperchancity. I stopped counting the Meat when I reached double figures, finally, this week, Big Curry!
Mein Host was still at the table when I announced:
I know exactly what Flavours I am expecting from this Curry, something South Indian.
Indeed, Hector was spot on. The dark Masala had Onion/Nigella Seeds mixed through, the Peppery Flavour was pronounced. The hoped for – smokiness – was just about there. The Coconut did whatever it does without adding Sweetness. Despite being far from the typical Hector Curry, this was truly excellent.
How is the Spice? – asked Mein Host?
I replied in the positive, the nose would be wiped as and when.
What’s more important, is the Seasoning – I added.
The Seasoning here I put in the – brave – category. Chefs are typically afraid to take it to the limit, this Curry had Seasoning, Spice, and so tremendous Flavour. As with an Achari, it may not be to everyone’s taste, but for those who can handle intensely Flavoured Curry, this Kolhapuri does the job.
The Lamb was most certainly – Tender. Mein Host told me it had been slow-cooked then the rest added. This was apparent, the Flavour of the Lamb itself was prominent, the South Indian Flavours were not coming from the Meat.
With an audience of one, Hector was in his element. I asked if Mein Host had been to Rishi’s Indian Aroma, a few blocks away, apparently not. I informed him that the Lamb Chettinad (£11.95) at Rishi’s, being close to the Kolhapuri, is way overpriced for the quantity given. Big prices, small portions, not what the Hector seeks. If one orders Lamb Kolhapuri at nearby Tuk Tuk – Indian Street Food, it’s a Tapas portion, nowhere near as satisfying.
With the Meat taken care of, I returned to the remaining Masala, this was when the Vegetable components of the Biryani came into their own. Meat and Masala, not so exciting, Masala with an array of Vegetables, always a treat. It became a matter of eating until I decided to call it a day. Hector had been fed, and some.
The Bill
£18.45 Mein Host considered that due to the promised review, a discount could be offered. This was declined – I have to give you a tip!
The Aftermath
Chef had been made aware that a food critic was present. He emerged from the kitchen beaming, possibly having heard the positive words describing his creations.
The city centre location, and that Bombaywalla opens daily at 11.00 (closed Mondays), definitely suits me. Marg will have to come and appraise the Keema Matar. I will certainly have the Kolhapuri again, especially given that the new incarnation of Banana Leaf does not open until the evenings.
If all goes to plan, my next Curry will also be South Indian, and extremely – Dry.
