Once upon a time, well eight years ago to be precise, there was Cafe Sizzler located in the former Clachan Bar on Paisley Rd. West. In 2014, Hector was invited by Nadeem to review this welcomed addition to the Glasgow Desi Curry scene. Lovely, bespoke Curry, cooked by Chef Mohammed, Cafe Sizzler didn’t last.
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Last year, when I finally got to visit Desi Dhaba Chaiwala, located in the grounds of the car wash at Eglinton Toll, Zee, our lady host, recognised me from the days of Cafe Sizzler. It was Howard who told me that these modest premises were closed. Passing yesterday, I spotted the sign giving the new locus for Desi Dhaba Chaiwala (21 Forth Street, Pollokshields, Glasgow G41 2SP). Hector, as always, is on the case.
The area around Albert Drive, Pollokshields, could probably support more Desi Curry Houses, however, opening next door to Ambala Pakistani Cuisine was decidedly brave. Forth Street is always buzzing, a focal point of the community, forget trying to park here.
A group of chaps were sat outside Desi Dhaba Chaiwala taking advantage of the spring sunshine. Entering at 14.15 with camera in hand, I was taken aback by the sheer size of the place, and the number of people present. I came to realise that many were staff, lots of staff, – Team Dhaba.
Oh, you’re back, I remember you – was the greeting by the tall chap who famously lost his Chapatti to the wind, when Marg and I visited their former premises. Zee passed me too, a smile of recognition, Hector was in the house. Desi Dhaba Chaiwala has only been in operation at this location for three weeks.
Before taking a seat mid-room, I investigated the length of the premises, what a place. What was here before?
The laminated menu was brought to the table, one orders at the counter, then pays at the end. It didn’t take long to digest the menu, Keema Aloo (£8.00) and Lamb Curry (£9.00) were the only Dishes of interest to the Hector. Opening at 09.00 daily, it became apparent that Desi Nashta is the main fayre on offer. Alas, Hector likes his Curry/Karahi.
With no Rice or Naan on the menu, A Plain Paratha (£3.00) felt like the appropriate accompaniment. The Student Biryani (£6.00) aside, this must be the only Curry House I have encountered with no Rice.
My Chapatti Chap served at the counter. No Sparkling Water and so a can of Mango Rubicon (£2.00) completed the Order.
Sans moustache, and sporting a baseball cap, I failed to recognise Chef Mohammed when he brought me Bhel Puri. The four shells, a Chana Chaat, and Tamarind were an unexpected and much appreciated bonus.
The Tamarind added the bite, there was probably as much Potato as Chickpea so the Chaat was certainly enjoyed. The couple who took the adjacent table were similarly welcomed, a nice touch.
My chap soon brought the Order. Having declined ice, I was given no glass. I had to go up to the counter to fetch my own, glass, spoon, and more napkins. Looking at the Lamb Curry, I was left with one overriding thought – is that it?
Lamb Curry
I counted eight pieces of Meat, some on-the-bone, sat in a Shorva. I later revised the count upwards to nine. Shorva, with Kofta fine, as a Curry, not what I would choose. I didn’t feel that I had £9.00 worth of Curry sitting before me. Another option would have been the Mix Thali (£15.00), a three Curry model. Why spend that much? For £15.00 I can get a veritable feast at Yadgar. In Manchester, Rice & Three is around the £6.00 mark. Maybe, Desi Dhaba will review their portion size?
The Paratha was huge, glistening, with a buttery sheen. Usually this tends to evaporate, not today, if anything, the Paratha was too greasy/buttery. However, it did have the layering, the swirl, the moistness prevented flaking.
I dipped my first piece of heart-attack Bread into the Shorva, oh. There was a sharp kick which hit the back of the throat, we had Spice. The first piece of Lamb also gave a huge blast, this time of Flavour. The Meat and Shorva were definitely not strangers. Some was Tender, some chewy, however, the Meat was always enjoyable. Why was the Shorva not giving the same depth of Flavour? Abandoning the Buttery Paratha, I used the spoon to sup the Soup. Ah, here we go, the anticipated rich Desi Flavours hit the palate. Well Seasoned, Aromatic, I felt the same taste in my mouth as when waking into a Suq. The Flavours were distinctive, powerful, this may not have been my first choice when it comes to Curry, but this was damn good.
Four members of staff checked on my progress. My server, Chef, Zee and finally Mein Host, Zee’s brother. To him I mentioned the minimal menu. Their plan is to rotate the Lamb Curry, but only ever have the one on offer. A few Dishes only, fresh each day is the model. On showing my photos back in 2014, it was Mein Host who confirmed that this was indeed Chef Mohammed, his father. When Chef was with me, I confirmed that the true Desi Flavours were prominent. Desi Dhaba – was his reply.
More food arrived, this time Dessert. It is some time since I have had Gajar ka Halwa, served warm as it was today, always appreciated.
The Bill
£14.00 In effect, the same as I paid at Karahi Palace on Saturday. It is clear which Curry was the better value, but then, I did enjoy the extras.
The Aftermath
Zee (Zaytoun) was happy to have her photo taken with her brother. She too repeated the plan to rotate the Curry, Curry one day, maybe Karahi the next. But how does one know in advance? If Karahi Gosht is on, I would love to know when. I put it to Zee that they were brave opening beside the excellent Ambala, however, I can see that Desi Dhaba is trying to offer something different.
More photos, the fayre on display, plus a freshly prepared Desi Nashta.
As I departed, I spotted the poster for the Kashmiri Pink Tea (£3.50). That’s one for Marg. The chaps outside asked if I had enjoyed my visit – indeed!
2022 Menu
