Until yesterday, my research had not revealed Nosh-E-Jaan (Kamer Hatun, Kamer Hatun Cd. No: 5-A, 34435 Beyoglu/Istanbul, Türkiye). They advertise themselves as serving – Authentic Desi Cuisine – an expression used often in Curry-Heute, in fact that which Hector seeks above all.
Marg and Hector set off up the hill from Galata to Pera, in the direction of Taksim Square. Once again, another Curry House was found near our destination, this is how Istanbul works, it’s all functional linkages. If one wishes to purchase electrical fittings of any type, then the streets around our accommodation are where one comes. Glasgow, however, appears to have more Turkish Barbers than Istanbul, but then I’m hardly looking for them.
Arriving at Nosh-E-Jaan at 13.30, a group were sat near the doorway in the otherwise empty restaurant. Spartan – may describe the decor. I would come to regret choosing a seat adjacent to the TV, the soundbar in particular. Far too loud.
The menus were brought, all that I had found online held true, there was a choice of Mutton Karahi (65TL) or Beef Karahi (55TL). I would take advice. Marg was up for a Chicken Tikka Salad (30TL).
When the waiter came to take the Order, I told him I had only just established the existence of Nosh-E-Jaan. Once I had finished my spiel, he admitted his English was limited. He probably hadn’t understood a word. Let’s order.
The Salad was not available, Vegetable Samosa (25TL) became the fallback. It has been a while since Marg ordered Samosae. Using hand gestures, I asked which was recommended, the Mutton or the Beef. I was steered towards the Beef Karahi. A Butter Naan (15TL) and a – Water Big – (10TL) completed the Order.
People came and went, no more actual customers. The TV blared, a Turkish singer, nowhere near as good as the Erdem Ozkan Band we saw last night at Nardi’s Jazz Club (Galata).
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The Samosae arrived first.
Vegetable Samosa
Four small Samosae accompanied by Ketchup, and thankfully, Raita. What’s with the Ketchup in Istanbul Curry Houses? Potato and Coriander were the fillings.
Very cute – was Marg’s first observation.
Indeed, they had a fine, golden hue and were gone in no time.
Very hot, a good spice level – Marg reported – an enjoyable dish. The Raita cools the mouth.
When Hector’s food arrived, there was a moment of both glee and disappointment. The Butter Naan was halved, not the end of the World. In what way was this a Naan? OK, it had risen ever so slightly, a few burnt blisters. It was far too thin, limp, I’ve had thicker Chapattis. Despite the negatives, Marg thought I might have to order another, it was that small. My 75p Naan was a disappointment, still, all was eaten.
A simple Salad of Cucumber and Onion was also brought to the table, Marg had most of this. I would take some Onion, just to add a bit of crunch to my Curry.
Beef Karahi
I immediately admired the pot, the garnish, the contents looked so appealing.
The pedigree of the Masala was self evident, it appeared to be Tomato-based. This was indeed Desi Cuisine. After yesterday’s strange experience at Karachi Darbar when I was unsure about what I was eating, this time, I decanted to the plate. I counted eight medium sized pieces of Meat. The pieces of – red – Vegetable mixed through the Masala had me concerned for a moment. Ah, Tomato, fine.
Big Spice, small seasoning, no chance of the – wow – today. The Meat was delightfully Soft, the Texture I admired greatly. It takes great skill to get Beef to this level of Tenderness and not let it turn to pulp. The Meat was excellent, I could have done with more. At these prices, let’s not complain. In terms of quantity, it was way more than The India Club (London) where I recommend sharing three portions between two. A Vegetable Side would have had me stuffed. I had considered ordering Aloo Matar (35TL) but was afraid of wasting food.
The limp Bread did not enhance the Curry. The depth of Flavour one looks for was not being revealed. Salt was on the table, not always the case. For those who permit themselves to add Salt, and thereby alter that which is presented, I would strongly suggest – add more Salt!
My mouth was on fire by the time I wiped the Masala residue from my plate. This Curry was good, but, one always hopes when visiting a new venue that something truly wonderful is going to be experienced. Not today. This does not mean that I did not enjoy what I ate, I just know it could have really hit the spot.
The Seasoning, or lack of, let the whole Curry down. Beef Stew – was almost going to be used as a description, too cruel. The Karahi, visually, had all the hallmarks of quality. This indeed was Desi Cuisine, remote from the blandness of the Mainstream.
The Bill
105.00TL (£5.55) Yes, this is accurate.
The Aftermath
Our waiter had issues with the card reader. Another chap, with more English and a second machine, evidently – Mein Host – sorted things. He asked the customary question.
The Calling Card was given, the Curry-Heute Website shown on the twin SIM Oppo. On seeing the length of the list of venues visited, he was well pleased at being added.
My enjoyment was relayed, however, I made it clear that – more Salt – was definitely required. Could I remember the word which means – the Salt brings out all the other Flavours? I would consult a well known and reliable Curry Blog later.
I did ask about the Masala. Tomato was confirmed, along with Onion and Garlic. No Ginger?
Of the two Istanbul Curry Houses visited, I would suggest that Nosh-E-Jaan has the greater potential to serve something that would make Hector go – Wow! Maybe I should have had the Mutton Karahi?
Later, standing in the abnormally lengthy queue to use the facilities at Ziba Bar, I was in conversation with a local. On the wall was a poster advertising a book. In the top right corner, there was another word which features oft in these pages – Umami!
I asked what it meant. He assured me it was not a Turkish word but had something to do with – taste. Indeed it has. Meaty – was the interpretation when this term was first encountered, however, it has evolved. The taboo associated with Monosodium Glutamate, appears to have been dropped, this – Salt – is back.
If that was coincidence, then what were the chances that the four digit pin for my Turkish SIM is the reverse of the numbers required to enter our apartment?
Kara! – it’s all about getting the correct Salt balance.
2022 Menu extracts
