Içmeler – Masala – Curry for Tourists

Hector and Marg in a holiday resort? Not our usual style of trip, not unheard of, last year we went to Girvan. I am not a beach person, though accommodation with a pool, where one manages to actually swim a few strokes, is a welcome change.

Içmeler in May, an unattainable concept prior to this year. The resort is just reawakening up after two years of hell, not just Covid, but a major forest fire at the peak of last summer which disrupted the town’s infrastructure.

The weans are still at school, everywhere, only people of a certain age are here. Içmeler is set up for the British. English, even Scottish breakfasts, are on offer in many establishments. A well known brand of a Tamarind based brown sauce correspondingly features. Marg told me quite emphatically that I was not going out to join the breakfast brigade this morning, I suggested Curry instead.

There are two Curry Houses which keep popping up when researching Içmeler, Masala (Içmeler, Kenan Evren Blv., 48720 Marmaris/Mugla, Türkiye) appears to be the better rated. That Masala is open at noon every day, suited the Hector dining pattern. We arrived at 13.40, unsurprisingly, we would be the only customers.

The waiter brought the menu, the prices were significantly higher than those seen in the Istanbul Curry Houses visited last week, as in more than double. Tourist prices. Two types of Cuisine are available at Masala, Indian, and that other stuff from further east, as was borne out by the Complimentary Starter: Prawn Crackers and three Dips. Two of the Dips were suitably spiced, the third was cough medicine.

What to have? Karahi? After my two recent Istanbul Karahi experiences, time to return to the Mainstream. Bhuna Lamb (259.90TL) should provide a true and fair view of the Curry at Masala. Taking no chances re Soupiness, Rice would accompany. Vegetable Rice (44.90TL), diversity rules.

Marg took the Samosa (59.90TL) route once again, but only after she ascertained that the Salad shown in the photo in the menu was accurate. A Large Water (24.90TL) would complete the Order.

As ever, I asked that no Capsicum would appear in either my Curry or Vegetable Rice. The waiter was keen to establish a level of Spice. Above medium – was eventually noted, after a warning.

I watched sacks of Onions being brought in to the restaurant during our half hour wait for the Order to be prepared. If only I could justify buying these at home, the price per unit is a tiny fraction of what we pay for Onions in supermarkets.

The food arrived, both Marg and Hector’s together, as asked.

Samosa

The Salad was little more than leaves of Lettuce. What does one do with them?

The Samosae were Vegetable. Marg found both the colour of the interior and the corresponding Flavour intriguing. Turmeric – was her nominated Spice, how she knows what Turmeric on its own tastes like, well, maybe she does. The colouring did give this credence. Marg was unable to identify a particular Vegetable in the Mash.

Hard to tell which Veg, mushie. Best Samosa I’ve had in a while.

The Vegetable Rice was definitely a portion for one. On decanting to the plate, it just about looked enough. This is a far cry from Central Europe where Rice portions are ridiculously large. The British influence in Içmeler?

The Rice contained Mushrooms, presumably tinned, diced Carrots and the tiniest flecks of Broccoli.

Bhuna Lamb

Perched high on its stand, the Curry stood proudly, the Coriander topping pointing skywards. As I arranged the Meat on the Rice, so I counted to double figures, the pieces, however, were tending towards – small.

There was a sense of excessive – red – in the Masala. Round Seeds, too small to be Coriander, were mixed through the viscous, blended Masala. On further study, I noted the Masala as gelatinous, this was not the Texture one creates by blending Onions and Tomatoes alone. Was adding Cornstarch, Chef’s attempt at creating what he thought was a Bhuna Masala?

I began by sampling the Vegetable Rice, a pronounced Flavour came from this, a good start. Then the Meat and Masala, nothing. I ate on, waiting for the Flavour of the Bhuna to hit the palate, nothing.

The Spice did build to something I would describe as – below Medium. The Seasoning was non-existent, hence the total lack of Flavour. Unsurprisingly, the Meat and Masala were strangers on the plate, how long had they been in each other’s company?

*

These are moments of despair for Hector. I can only be true to myself and my readers, there was nothing happening here. Other Sources describe Masala as serving – authentic – Cuisine. What did they order? I felt my constructive criticism of the two Istanbul Curry Houses to be misplaced in comparison. Suddenly, the perceived lack of Seasoning at Nosh-E-Jaan was set aside, what lay before me today was not even on the Scale of Seasoning.

By the halfway point, I was convincing myself I could taste Tomato. The blend of Spice was making the palate aware that something – Curry-like – was being consumed. One forkful suddenly gave Flavour, Cardamom, yet I saw no evidence. Then I found a linear Seed, or was it a husk?

As I arranged the final pieces of Meat, Masala and Rice in the centre of the plate so I declared:

I’m getting something now.

Truly, what you see in the photo was the only part of this Bhuna Lamb to give Flavour. And to prove my love of Curry regardless, I ate every grain of Rice, every morsel of the Curry.

The Bill

350.73TL  (£17.87)   This was after a 10% discount for dining before 18.00.

The Aftermath

Mein Host asked, he had to be told.

I showed him photos of the Desi Curry enjoyed last week in the two Istanbul Curry Houses. Those were at the opposite end of the Curry spectrum.

Your Curry is for tourists.

I’ll tell Chef.

Menu extracts 2022

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