As reported on Saturday, there were balloons outside Taste of Chennai (331 Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow, G2 3HW) to mark the rebranding, Kama Sutra is no more. When Marg announced she would join Hector for Curry-Heute, this seemed the perfect opperchancity to investigate the alterations. Today, February 6th, marks the tenth anniversary of my first, and only, visit to Kama Sutra.
Before entering, we went in search of Southern Spice. Somehow it became a Kebap shop without me realising, presumably during the era of Covid. Tuk-Tuk – Indian Street Food closed recently, Indian Gallery a while back, this part of Sauchiehall Street needs Curry Houses.
How I missed the opening of Glassy Central (285 Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow G2 3HQ), a few doors along from Taste of Chennai, puzzles. Glasgow’s first – Desi Bar – this sounds appealing. However I note the opening times have been revised, so no more Lunchtime opening. 16.00 does not suit the Hector eating pattern, it could be some time therefore before Glassy Central is reviewed. They do advertise Lamb on-the-bone (£8.50).
Marg and Hector entered Taste of Chennai at 15.00. We were offered the window table in the otherwise empty restaurant, declined. A booth along the left wall was chosen. The décor is bright, partitions and pillars made capturing the layout difficult. It is a marked change from what I recall as being a dark and mysterious venue previously.
Mein Host brought the menu, he confirmed that Taste of Chennai opened on Friday, the balloons didn’t last long. Kama Sutra was in situ for thirteen years, new owners and some new Chefs were declared, and a new menu. Having studied the menu online, Chettinadu Fish Curry (£11.99) was already in Hector’s mind. I had sold Marg on the Lamb Pepper Curry (£11.99).
The Rice section is extensive. Today, Marg was having Rice, not her customary Chapatti (£1.50). I suggested we share Veg Fried Rice (£6.99). With Plain Rice at £2.99, this should surely be enough to share. A 750ml bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.99) completed the Order.
Spice Level was then discussed. Marg opted for – medium.
I can handle Spicy – was boasted.
Chicken, Lamb and Fish are priced the same, unusual. I was at least happy not to be paying a premium for Fish Curry. Perhaps the – meat – quantity is adjusted accordingly.
From my seat, I tried to take photos of the layout. Better ones were secured at the end of the meal. At 15.00, the lady hostess brought hot plates, a bit quick, but at least we were not going to be taken prisoner as it felt at The Wee Curry Shop on Saturday.
Mix Veg Rice
What came, took me by surprise. The aroma was decidedly – not Indian. Despite the menu stating – Cumin and Indian Spices, this Rice was a creation from further East.
The quantity of Vegetables disappointed, the content/array also. It is some time, OK, three weeks, since the Hector was exposed to the dreaded Ballast, here were strips of both Red and Green Capsicum. Slivers of Cabbage (?) and sliced Syboes were mixed through. Indian Restaurants, as experienced in India, across Europe and back to the UK, serve Mixed Vegetable Rice containing – Carrots, Peas, Green Beans Cauliflower/Broccoli. Not at Taste of Chennai.
No Onion Raita arrived as per menu description.
There was enough to share, though a Chapatti could well have been managed.
Chettinadu Fish Curry
The dark – Soupy – Masala was as expected. It doesn’t have to be this way, however, outwith Indian Mango (München), who set the standard by which all Chettinad is compared, this is how it is. Having decanted the first piece of Fish to the Rice, there was almost a cry of joy at finding an entire steak slice of King Fish below. Fish Curry on-the-bone, yay! Travancore (Aberdeen) this was not. As we all know: King Fish, aka Surmai/Wahoo/Spanish Mackerel, has dark flesh which cooks white.
Four whole cloves of Garlic were in the Masala; the irony that this became the largest Vegetable on the plate was not lost. Some Diversity at least.
The Spice Level built slowly. There was no big blast of South Indian Curry, no Red Chillies, no roasted Coconut. I was evaluating the Seasoning when finally, the Fish gave off its true Flavour. A Fish Curry that tastes of – Fish – too much to ask in too many venues. Something then triggered the release of the recognisable South Indian Flavour, never strong, at last it arrived. This was more like it.
The strong Texture of the Fish was a positive, I’m going to stand at the freezer section in an Asian grocer and hopefully establish what’s what. Coley (Pollock) and King Fish will have to be sourced. With the ratio of Fish to Masala weighted towards the latter, it became a matter of course that I would be left with Rice and Masala, nay Fish. This is where the Vegetables could have provided more, sadly not today.
An enjoyable Curry, not outstanding, however, the Hector did something in an attempt to rectify the situation.
Lamb Pepper Curry
Really, how – Soupy – can a Curry be presented? There was no sign of anything genuinely solid in the Masala. Maybe the floaters were the skins of the famed Dried Red Chillies, Marg wasn’t saying. Marg didn’t count the Meat, but she was finished long before me. I had bones to pick out and notes to take.
With regards to the Lamb:
Varying sizes and texture, not melt in the mouth – was announced.
As she ate, so Marg declared that she prefers – by far – Curry that is not – soupy. Well she has eaten at some of the finest Curry Houses across many nations.
I took a Soupçon of the Masala. Ah-ha! This was much more potent, enough to make Marg cough. The hoped for, and distinctive, South Indian Curry Taste was there. Peppery indeed.
Marg couldn’t bring herself to pour her remaining Masala over the Rice. Rather than see it wasted, the Peppery Masala crossed the table. And so Hector’s Chettinad was given a much needed boost. Marg’s verdict:
A good kick with black pepper dominating. The Veg Rice was a lovely contrast to the sauce.
Of the thirty five restaurants defined in Curry-Heute as Glasgow’s – City Centre, fourteen (40%) have closed in the time of this Blog. Impressive as some venues may be, not one has made it to – Glasgow’s Top Rated. They are not visited oft, kept for – special occasions – when ambience becomes a determining factor. Glasgow’s – City Centre – is not the Hector’s Curry playground.
The Bill
£34.96 Better than being in the Merchant City.
The Aftermath
On holding the new Oppo aloft to show the review of Kama Sutra, ten years ago, today, the hoped for impact was not realised. The Calling Card was given to the lady who passed it on to her male colleague for scrutiny. Do people reviewing Curry Houses not introduce themselves?
Hector needs to cross the river.
Taste of Chennai Menu
