Harrogate – Jinnah Restaurant – A Monday Night Curry

Harrogate? Marg and Hector appear to be repeating January 2022 in reverse. This is the final stop, fourth night only, feels like a week already. Bettys Tearoom was visited once again, the most expensive Tea in the North, possibly. There Marg had lunch, Hector was saving the appetite for real food.

Had it not been a Monday, Hector’s choice for Harrogate Curry would once again have been Shalimar. Whilst I was not convinced as to the efficacy of the – Afghani – element of their – Afghani Karahi – as a – Karahi – it certainly impressed.

If it’s a Monday in Harrogate, then maybe it has to be Jinnah Restaurant (32 Cheltenham Parade, Harrogate HG1 1DB England). Authentic Kashmiri Cuisine – is their tagline, however, under the classification – Medium Homestyle Specialities – they too serve Lamb Afghani (£12.95). A Curry fit for Royalty, allegedly. It had to be established if this Dish was fit for a Hector.

I note that the Curry immediately above it on the menu is – Nawabi Khana – the Curry I chose last night at International (Bradford). The menu here also quotes – twenty one – as being a key number of Spices/ingredients. A quick look at T’internet, and this appears to be a common thread, a case of chuck in every Spice in the cupboard?

We arrived at Jinnah, a converted kirk, at 18.30. Can kirks be converted or just their parishioners? Correspondingly, the venue is huge.

A large group occupied half of the central seating area, we were led up to the right, to the rear of a line of booths. Jinnah must seat well over a hundred, tonight we were around forty. Impressive for a Monday, but then Shalimar was closed today.

Marg would have a Prawn Puri (£5.95), Hector’s choice of accompaniment was a Plain Nan (£2.95). A 750ml bottle of Harrogate Sparkling Water (£5.50) completed the Order. Pricey water, had it come far?

The service was efficient, the chap seemed a bit surprised when we were ready to order so quickly. Having the Puri arrive at the same time as the Afghani was requested.

Arrive together they did, and a bit too quickly for my liking. Having watched and waited for authentic Afghan Karahi being prepared in Glasgow at both Khyber Pass Restaurant and Namak Mandi, it cannot be done in ten to fifteen minutes.

The Naan, which looks here like a magic carpet, had the suitable burnt blisters, was sufficiently risen, and was nearly devoured in its entirety. A decent Naan.

Prawn Puri

With the Prawns well into double figures, and a suitably viscous Masala, this was a classic Puri. Well, the actual Puri was sufficiently large to make a meal in its own right. Who would have this as a Starter followed by a Main Course?

I must have a go at making a Puri. Given that the Bread is fried, my lack of skill on a Tawa would not be a hindrance.

*

Lamb Afghani

That the contents only half filled the pot was the first negative observation. The garnish included the dreaded Capsicum, this time in Red. Just how much of this lay below? I discarded a couple of strips, the remainder appeared to be Ginger Strips, Onion and Tomato. This Curry had very much the appearance of a Jalfrezi.

I had the choice, decant so that I could count the Meat and better see the Masala, or eat directly from the pot and hopefully keep the food hot/warm. It’s January, I chose the latter. It was also dimly lit where we sat, so I could not see the Masala initially. At least I could tell it was not – Soupy.

Tomato was the standout Flavour at the start, a low level of Seasoning disappointed. The Spice Level was quoted as – medium – it certainly was. The Lamb was suitably Tender and the ratio of Meat to Masala was equitable. The traditional Bread accompaniment was the correct choice.

I waited, hoped for, that distinct Flavour which sets Afghani Cuisine apart from my commonly devoured Punjabi interpretation. Charsi – this was not. As with Shalimar, I have to ask in what was this an Afghan Curry?

The underlying Flavour was decidedly familiar. Oftentimes I recognise, but cannot identify. Tonight it quickly dawned on me, this was a very much in the style of Rogan Josh served in the decades before it became a Creamier Curry. A watered down Rogan Josh – was added to my notes.

Determined to examine the Masala further, with a bit of balancing, I managed to secure a photo on the new Oppo. The Masala was Thicker than I had previously realised, redder too, Tomato-based? As I looked across the table to the Prawn Puri, I could not see much difference between the two Red Masalas. Hopefully there was.

When Neil introduced me to Rogan Josh around 1980, it became the go-to Curry for many years. I therefore enjoyed tonight’s Curry for how it actually tasted, not for what it was meant to be.

I feel a return visit to one of Glasgow’s Afghan Restaurants is imminent.

Marg enquired about milky coffee, only filter was on offer, declined.

The Bill

£27.35

The Aftermath

On receipt of the Calling Card, the waiter did not show much reaction. It was clearly not passed up the chain to a superior. As we departed, he did say he was looking forward to reading my review. Well, here it is!

2023 Menu

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