The annual IQ gig in Bury sees Marg and Hector in the north of that England. To add something special, two nights in Harrogate. Marg’s local hockey chum had recommended ILLAM Restaurant – South Indian Kitchen (12 King’s Rd, Harrogate HG1 1BT England) which opened last year and has become a favourite in Harrogate with the locals (two further independent locals verified this evening). 
There is a lot of choice in this somewhat pukka town. Shalimar and Jinnah have both impressed on previous visits to Harrogate, also formal restaurants. There is little chance of a Curry Cafe opening in this neck of the woods.
South Indian Curry has been noticeable by its absence since the Hector returned from a certain extensive trip last year, the mood just hasn’t been there. Too busy catching up on favourite Punjabi Houses.
Studying the menu in advance, ILLAM boasts a diverse menu in terms of Indian Cuisine, but not necessarily – Curry – per se. Having dismissed all things – Chicken – that leaves three Meat Curry options, also Fish, but no Chettinad. Beef Varattiyathu (£18.95) looked the best Hector option, pricey, but includes the legendary Malabar Parotta. Sold.
Having passed in daylight after our visit to the Royal Pump Room Museum, we had established ILLAM’s central location. Royal, no sign of – Shahi – on the menu either. We returned at 19.05.
A waiter, pad in hand, asked if we had a reservation, it’s an Indian thing. Most tables were occupied. We were offered the small table in front of the bar, or upstairs. Street level, as ever, the Hector wanted to see – the action.
A large bottle of Harrogate’s very own Sparkling Water (£3.45) was secured. A sensible price. It was Marg’s turn to choose. Malibar Attirachi Curry (£17.50) is the only Lamb Curry. As suggested, Coconut Rice (£3.25) would accompany.
You have no Chettinad – I proferred to the waitress as she took the Order.
No.
Is there a reason?
No.
Alles ist klar.
The tables in the main room soon emptied, however, in the interim, new customers were directed upstairs. Exploration was required, as and when the opperchancity presented itself.
Beef Varattiyathu
The presentation was – pukka Thali. A banana leaf sat beneath the focal part of the Dish. Chukka/Sukka is how I have experienced this Curry before. A Dry, Thick Masala, not the Shorva which prevails in South Indian Cuisine, and of course, in Hector’s preferred style. Chopped Onion permeated the Masala, do they blend then add this, or was this a true Masala Mash? The Meat was cut – Bradford small. The Meat count was therefore indeterminate, I had no issue with quantity versus price.
The Parotta looked sublime. White, layered, stretched, maybe the largest yet encountered, worth the admission money alone. Well, maybe not. This remains the – King of Indian Bread. The Salad, little more than a garnish would be classed as incidental. The surprise was the small Side of Aloo. With a Green Mush as its Masala, I considered Peas as the base, alas, there was no sense of – Mutter – here, taste-wise. Given what lay beside it, the Aloo would only provide a welcome Diversity of Texture, but in terms of Flavour, it would be drowned.
The Spice Level in the Main Masala could prove demanding for some. Striking at the start, it subsequently rampaged on the palate: Cinnamon, and most importantly, the definitive South Indian – smokiness. Why has the Hector been denying himself this pleasure for the past year? The answer is written, already.
Tender-chewy Beef, some eaten alone, some eaten with the glorious Parotta. Right and left hand eating, then add a bit of Potato, joy. Curry Leaves were in the melange, what was the purpose of the Banana Leaf? No other Whole Spices.
Seasoning felt incidental such was the dominance of the – Smoky Flavour. Chettinad may not be on the menu, but in terms of Flavour, this Curry, as appreciated by this commentator, was as satisfying as.
Malibar Attirachi Curry
A half full handi, why not full? Lamb swimming in a Soupy Masala, a Tarka Topping, such is South Indian Curry, and why the Hector prefers Chukka/Sukka. The Coconut Rice portion at first appeared to be modest, but having covered her plate with what she felt was enough, Marg was offering Rice across the table, declined. In the end, Marg would use up all her Rice such was the abundance of Masala in terms of its ratio to the Meat.
A Soupçon of the Masala was sampled, it had nowhere near the intensity of Flavour of Hector’s chosen Curry. However, Marg was certainly pleased with her choice.
My dish had a thin sauce with small pieces of very tender lamb. The dish recommended Coconut Rice or Parotta. I had decided on the rice. A good helping of rice with small bits of cashew nuts. The rice absorbed the sauce and it gave the dish a good flavour and enough spice for me. It was a filling dish with all this rice, but I thoroughly enjoyed it.
Needed a walk to allow the food to go down.
The Bill
£43.30
The Aftermath
The same waitress had served us throughout. It was to her that the Calling Card was presented. Perplexified (sic) – may describe her reaction. The Calling Card was passed to her male colleagues. Phones appeared, Curry-Heute no doubt being examined momentarily, behold San!
A proper introduction, Curry-Heute was outlined in full, and an exchange of information re ILLAM. I had to bring up – Chettinad. San’s explanation was that in the South of India there is Tamil and Nadu, one has Chettinad, ILLAM does not.
The dedicated page for Banana Leaf (Glasgow) was then displayed. The complicated naming of the dishes at ILLAM was challenged. Varattiyathu – is – Chukka/Sukka, I proferred. Attirachi – I have as Aatu Erachi. Tamil, Nadu?
A photo with San became the next objective, before I knew it, all staff were being assembled and Chef summoned from the kitchen.
Photo taken, and Chef wondering who this Hector was, the word – Glasgow – reached his ears.
Glasgow, do you know Dhakin and The Dabbha?
Merchant City Curry Houses, I scrolled down the right column of Curry-Heute, both of course have been reviewed, the second visit to The Dhabba by invitation. The corresponding photo at The Dhabba featured Mein Host, Pete, whom he immediately recognised.
Chef informed me that ILLAM are considering opening in either Glasgow or Edinburgh. Glasgow has a cluster of South Indian restaurants in the city centre, but nothing south of the river, there, Punjabi reigns supreme. An opperchancity?
2025 Menu
