As the number of Afghan restaurants in Glasgow grows, Curry-Heute as ever, shall focus on those which are not simply – Grill Houses. Anyone can grill meat, creating a Masala worthy of these pages is another matter. However, a decent – Qozi – with a sauce on the side, could also attract.
Khyber Sheenwari (61 Bridge Street Glasgow G5 9JB) opened towards the end of 2025, in the premises previously occupied by Al Sultan. Having checked that venue out back in 2018, it appears their Qozi never had Hector cross the threshold after all.
Khyber Sheenwari serves the glorious Namkeen Karahi (£31.99) by the kilo, Hector is open to offers. Charsi Karahi (£31.99) has less of an attraction these days, however, the half kilo (£16.99) may one day tempt, time will tell. Open seven days from noon, suitable hours for Hector’s optimum eating pattern.
Being a Monday, Marg was accompanying once more, Keema Aloo (£7.99) surely had her name on it. Alas, whilst the Hector recorded the menu, Marg declared it to be a Salad Day: Greek Salad (£4.99) plus Lamb Samosa (£3.99) – 4pcs.
Trying to avoid a Lamb overdose, the Hector ordered the Keema Aloo, only to be told minutes later by the young, charming waitress, that this would not be ready for another forty five minutes. Nihari (£10.99) it would have to be then, with one Plain Naan (£1.50). The Order seemingly sorted, Marg added Karak Chai (£1.99) to be presented as soon as. It was agreed that Marg’s selection of Starters should arrive with the Nihari.
A bottle of tap water was already on the table. This would suffice. I did take special note of the cutlery, sexy utensils.
There were only two diners present on our arrival. They were sat far away, in this vast, linear, restaurant. The investment in the bright décor must have been substantial, one often wonders where does the finance behind these conversions come from?
Tanga’s Khyber Sheenwari, may be the full name for this establishment. An online source relates that Tanga, the founder and head chef, fled the war in Afghanistan aged ten. Brought up in Pakistan, he learned the Shinwari and Peshawari cooking styles. That this business is not just about Grilled Meat is why the Hector was here.
Moments later, the waitress brought the Karak Chai. Presented in a glass, its milkiness says everything about why the Hector does not go there. Marg loves it.
The waitress brought a Salad and two Dips. Marg asked if this was her Greek Salad. With no Feta, clearly not, this was the inclusive accompaniment, for the Samosa, one assumes. Featuring both black and green Olives, way more than a – Modest Salad.
Quality Olives, soft and juicy, leagues above than what comes in Hellas and Italia.
When the Greek Salad arrived, the presence of Lime wedges puzzled. Somehow, the greenery in the complimentary Salad ended up being mixed in with the Greek. Marg cannot have too much Salad.
The red Chilli Dip rates a mention, appreciably superior to the sweet stuff which prevails.
Lamb Samosa
Four, as promised, tiny. Great for sharing I suppose, not going to spoil the appetite here. The shot of the interior did not reveal much Meat, however, Marg was satisfied:
The Lamb Samosas came in four small pieces. They were hot & crispy with meat, potatoes and peas. Tasty and enjoyable.
The Greek Salad did not disappoint. Plenty of red onions, feta, some peas, a piece of radish, chopped cucumber & tomatoes and small pieces of lime. I tried to squeeze the lime, as I did not want to eat the rind. I added the lettuce (from the other Salad). Did not add any of the sauces. Overall, it was a good meal for me.
Indeed, we had amassed quite a feast on the table. And as Monday lunch is always on me, the prices were making the Hector feel good.
The Plain Naan was served whole. Despite the central perforations, the Bread had suitably risen, particularly towards the perimeter. A bit peely-wally in appearance there was the beginning of burnt blisters. The darker hue brought Wholemeal Flour to mind, fortunately if present, not intrusive. A decent Naan, I managed about half.
Nihari
The size of the bone had me gobsmacked. At this price I expected the small Lamb Shank one sees in Farmfoods, this was the real deal. The sheer volume of Lamb on-the-bone guaranteed a good feed, possibly double the quantity had in my last two Nihari experiences at New Cafe Reeshah and Sheerin Palace.
Sliced Bullet Chillies, Ginger Strips and Coriander, together formed the impressive garnish.
The Shorva was unlike any seen before in Nihari. Typically, the Shorva is brown, Bisto-dark brown. The colour somehow defines the expected Flavours, and so this decidedly pale Shorva intrigued. Let the Dipping Fest begin.
The Spice Level would never grow above moderate, except when the Bullet Chillies were introduced. The Seasoning had me won, Earthy Flavours as opposed to the Cinnamon dominant versions I have come to expect, I could have just stayed here with – ma broth.
Watery – is how one Southside Curry House describes their own Nihari-Shorva, this was not. The level of viscosity here was to be commended.
The Lamb was removed from its bone easily, had this Dish been served boneless, it would have lost its charm. This was the Tenderest of Meat at the absolute end of the spectrum. So soft, juicy, and with the Shorva, a delight to behold. No dryness, here, minimal chewing required. The Hector had to take care not to get too carried away. Slow eating, savour the moment. This distinctively light coloured Shorva was giving this Nihari an edge. Best I’ve ever had? Possibly.
Who needs a Keema Aloo or Charsi Karahi?
Well into our respective Dishes, the waiter, who had kept his distance prior to this moment, came over to ask the customary question. The food was suitably praised, Marg began the interrogation.
Khyber Sheenwari has been open seven to eight months. We were assured that the presently near empty restaurant would fill up later. At evenings and weekends the place is full, tables for twenty being a common occurrence. This is the largest Afghan restaurant I have been to in Glasgow, so quite a feat. The relocated Namak Mandi, around the corner, is surely larger still. Hector has been put off further investigation, their menu has decidedly limited – Curry. Namak Mandi is advertising good deals on Mondays and Tuesdays, albeit for Charsi Karahi. Whether or not this includes afternoons will have to be established. May the fourth might provide the opperchancity.
Meanwhile, let’s celebrate Khyber Sheenwari – good food, competitive prices. However, they have one outstanding feature over all other Afghan outlets in this city – accessibility – Bridge Street Subway station is metres away, and also the O2 Academy. Two blocks from the River Clyde, surely, some can cross to the Southside where an adventure in dining awaits.
The Bill
£25.81 This included a 10% service charge.
The Aftermath
A wander to the rear of the premises revealed a line of four Majlis, with associated Toshak. The curtains for one booth had been drawn, so that’s what happened to the young couple who had entered earlier, the lady sporting her Burka. If sitting on a cushion to dine, is the means to avoid revealing one’s face, then so be it.
The waiter cordially received the Calling Card. Had Tanga been on the premises, I’m sure he would have been summoned. Next time?
2026 Menu
