Somehow I managed to change trains at Partick and still end up at Glasgow Queen St, so no Southside Curry-Heute. The Merchant City was calling, the latest City Centre venue: Madha North and South Indian Kitchen (42 Albion St, Glasgow G1 1LH) became today’s choice of venue. If my research is correct, this Curry House is the brainchild of – Joseph – once of The Dhabba which Hector reviewed, by invitation, last year. They claim to be the first venue in Scotland to serve the Cuisine of both North and South India. Given how extensive the menus are in many Mainstream Curry Houses, this claim might be debatable. However, there is Mainstream and there is Authentic.
Walking through George Square on this fine summer’s afternoon, I passed a locus on Cochrane St. which once housed – Akbar – my favourite Curry House back in the 1970s. Whatever happened to these Chaps? Their Curry had a Flavour I have never encountered elsewhere.
I arrived at Madha @14.30, a few people sat in the window area, no staff member was seen. I walked along the narrow corridor to the larger seating area in the rear, still no sign of staff. Ah, a member of staff was having his lunch and called Joseph from the kitchen.
I was pleased to make his acquaintance. He let me choose my own table in one of the small booths on the far side of the rear room. In the course of our brief conversation he told me he is from Kerala. There are not a large number of actual – Indian Restaurants – in Glasgow. One day I will find a Chettinadu in Glasgow to match what I had in Seattle last weekend at Chili’s South Indian Cuisine. The Menu was provided. It was evident that this was not a Mainstream Menu, but a collection of well thought out Dishes.
Joseph mentioned Drinks, I asked for Sparkling Water. He offered Large or Small. Having been caught out at many a venue, I asked how much the Large was. £3.00 was more than acceptable for a Litre Bottle, Joseph insisted that they do not try to rip people off by overcharging.
Machi Masala (£15.00) featured Salmon in a – thick delicately spiced tomato gravy. The promise of a Thick Masala was tempting, sourcing Quality Fish Curry in Glasgow is difficult. By the time I dismissed Capsicum and Coconut from the Lamb Dishes, I was left with Rogan Josh (£11.00), a possibility. Duck Curry? – a rarity in these parts. Kuttandadan Tharavu Roast (£12.00) sounded interesting, I would have to verify that it was actually – Curry. £20.00 for Nalli Gosht? Is it gold-plated?
Joseph returned, I asked about the Kuttandadan Tharavu Roast and whether I should have Bread or Rice with it. Having established how hungry I was, and that I was not having a Starter, he suggested both. Chapattis (£2.00) are not on the Menu. Joseph suggested a Chapatti and one of the interesting Rice Dishes. I went for Chamba Rice (£2.50), Brown Rice apparently.
I had time to take in my surroundings. The layout is reminiscent of Charcoals on Renfield St., the entrance area, long narrow corridor, then larger seating area to the rear. From the street, one cannot see that these premises are considerably larger.
The wait was appropriate, not too long, not Curry in a flash. When it arrived, I was impressed by the sight of a Thick, Minimal Masala. The overall quantity was such that I could have done without the Chapatti. Nevertheless, this was a worthy Chapatti, good girth and soft. The Chamba Rice intrigued. This – Brown Rice – was White, Chubby, quite different from Basmati. It reminded me of the Orzo Pasta which is used by the Greeks in Giouvetsi.
I arranged the Duck Curry over the Rice. There was a hint of Fresh Coriander and the slightest presence of Ginger Strips. After the poverty of Toppings in my recent jaunt to USA, I was glad to see these once more. This Curry looked Wonderful, redefining – Minimal Masala. This is how Hector likes his Curry.
The first mouthful disappointed, the food was simply not Hot enough. After my Homecoming Curry yesterday at Karahi Palace where the food is served – piping hot – I had to wonder what had happened.
The Spice Level was not demanding, thankfully the Seasoning rescued the meal, this was Fine. I counted the Duck pieces into double figures, they were also quite Large; a Portion size that matched the price. The Texture of the Duck varied from very Soft to quite Chewy, but that is the nature of Duck. Quack! It was the chewier meat which gave off the strongest Duck Flavour. Hector likes Duck.
I picked out Green Cardamom and Cinnamon Bark from the Melange. Onions were present throughout the Masala. Was it from here the slight Sweetness emanated? Hector prefers – Bitter – Karela, on the odd occasion. The hoped for Richness of Flavour was never revealed. This Curry did not have the Depth of Flavour I have become used to in, dare I mention, my favourite Punjabi venues.
Joseph had approached mid-meal to ask the customary question. I congratulated him on the Quality of the Masala. I was not revealing myself yet.
Overall, this was a Curry with a hint of pedigree, not the – Duck Soup – I feared might arrive. It should have been served Warmer, and the Spice Level negotiated.
The Bill
£19.50 Put Merchant City in the address and the price goes up a Fiver.
The Aftermath
By the time I paid, Joseph had left the building. His assistant took the Calling Card. Our conversation was interrupted by someone making a booking over the phone for later. I waited, we exchanged pleasantries. Until next time.
