Having made the mandatory pilgrimage to Kabana in the Northern Quarter on Monday, Rizwan, Mein Host suggested we try the sister shop – Kabana (Cheetham Hill) (133 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester, England M8 8LY) run by his brother, Mani. On Wednesdays they serve Bateera/Baterai/Quail, poultry that Hector has only encountered twice in Glasgow at the first ever visit to Sheerin Palace, and later when Hari put it on for us at the much missed Punjabi (Charing X).
My first question was – how many Quails in a portion?
The answer – two – was satisfactory. The Man from Bradford was once served a solitary bird … expletive deleted. Footery – does not begin to describe the eating of this micro-bird, one is never un oeuf.
My rendezvous with Steve was 13.30 at Kabana, I caught up with him at the foot of Cheetham Hill Road. We entered to find a few tables occupied, the rotation of customers was ongoing. I asked for Rizwan’s bother, a chap pointed to his right, this was Paul, business partner of Mani, they share days about. I missed Mani last time I was here, maybe it will take a wedding in Glasgow for me to meet the family together? (I’ll keep setting reminders.)
A portion of Bateera (£6.50) was ordered with Rice (£1.80). Rice with Quail? Steve took the more traditional Chapatti option. Hector is not eating Bread with Curry presently.
The – foliage – was on the counter, a fourth pot, brown seeds of some sort. I didn’t ask, Coriander, Green Chillies and Diced Ginger is quite enough. A customer overheard our order – what is Quail? – he asked. I will admit to – sparrow – being referenced in my reply. When I told him it was a – Wednesday Special – he was up for it.
Paul ensured that we had a full jug of water, his staff were never far away, we would be well looked after.
Bateera/Quail
Baterai is how I have come to call this delicacy in Glasgow. This pair looked substantially larger than those encountered previously. Spooning Rice over the Shorva did feel a bit silly. I immediately knew that half of the Rice would go to waste, a portion enough was to share.
After yesterday’s strange experience at nearby Real Taste, I sampled the Masala before I tackled the Meat or Shorva-soaked Rice. Here was the standard Oily, Blended Desi-Masala, the type of which I cannot bring myself to ever replicate. This has never put me off ordering it, especially after I was put in my place by a Curryspondent commenting on a subsequent visit to Sheerin Palace.
My first bite into a solid was a moment of horror – Black Cardamom – whole, huge, pay more attention, Hector! Start again. This time I pulled off one of the Quail legs, Sucky Bones with a difference. Mmmmm, tasty, no – Wow! – too little Seasoning for the Hector palate. Reality addressed, I continued.
Brown meat, absorbent, in the way that the most popular White Poultry served in a Curry House is not. The skeleton bones were placed on the space on the Rice plate, quite a pile was forming, I felt almost apologetic for eating this poor animal. However, when the first was done, I was certainly happy to start on its partner. Peppercorns and pieces of Cinnamon Bark were carefully set aside, no more Cardamom. I couldn’t help but notice, across the table, Steve had none of these solids. As with yesterday at Real Taste, he may have been experiencing a different outcome.
Steve mopped up all the remaining Masala with his ample Wholemeal Chapatti. The blue towel roll sat on the shelf beside us, handy.
The Quail was delicious – reported Steve – bony but enjoyable. The sauce was up to the usual Kabana high standard.
The Bill
£8.30 for Hector.
The Aftermath
As I waited to pay I sneaked the opperchancity to photograph Meat being cooked on the open grill. A staff member immediately invited me to the other side of the counter to get a better shot. From there I also snapped Paul. Moments like this enhance the quality of coverage in Curry-Heute.
