Another Summertime Saturday in Glasgow, The Glorious Twelfth as it happens. Fear not, the Hector is not off to grab a brace of Grouse, however, if someone knows anywhere in this city serving Baterai/Quail without advance notice, do let me know. Maybe Wednesday, next week in Manchester?
The rains have not subsided, the city centre streets remain blocked off, most bus routes are affected. I can only imagine the shock when passengers find themselves speeding up/down the M8 under Charing X to accommodate the cyclists above. So it goes.
At 13.50, across the river, Hector found himself once again in Allison Street. As spotted at the start of the week, what was: Lasani Grill, Al-Anwar, Basharat G’z, Spice Haven, Nan Factory, is now Shinwari. (223-225 Allison Street, Glasgow, G42 8RU).
The dining area appeared to be untouched since I last ate here. Two tables now occupy the entrance area along with a fruit juice bar, yet to be set up. If I was going to engage, out front seemed like a good place to sit.
Ready Curry was on display, one stood out (below right). I took this to be their Chicken Curry (£5.00) as advertised on the board. With a presumably Yogurt-rich Masala, this almost looked tempting, OK a fallback, last resort even, if my intended Dish was not yet available.
Yes, this was something different.
I found a menu on the counter, the glorious Namkeen Karahi (£30.00) was only available by the kilo. Marg had nearly joined me today, but knowing what awaits next week, decided otherwise. I shall let her down gently. A half kilo of Lamb Charsi Karahi (£15.00) was what was in mind upon arrival. There was no premium for ordering the ordering the half kilo, customer friendly.
A mature chap took the Order. Above medium Spice, not crazy – raised a smile. This seems to work. No Chapattis, a Plain Nan (£1.00) would do. Realistic Bread prices. I noticed that – Nan Factory – is still prominent behind the counter. That incarnation was an offshoot of – Original Khyber – in Shawlands.
My choice of seat was to hopefully engage the chaps working and establish how this Shinwari has come about after the demise of the once nearby Shinwari Restaurant. In all, I counted six chaps working this afternoon, quite an investment at a venue which either keeps failing, or proves to be too much to handle.
Ten minutes after placing my Order, a young chap brought out the Karahi and Naan, then quickly presented an extra plate for the bones, plus a bottle of chilled water with accompanying glass and napkins. How he got all this on the table in seemingly an instant, did impress. A disturbingly quick Karahi, but if the kitchen is set up to produce this regularly, so be it. It doesn’t take that long to create a Tomato-based Masala. Still, the chaps from Guinness Book of Records could be called here.
Sliced in two, the Naan was huge given the price. The Tandoor was within sight of where I sat, but with perforations, the Bread had not been allowed to rise.
I thought I might manage half.
*
Lamb Charsi Karahi
The portion looked to be substantial, but still very much – a portion. How the half kilo is measured has never been defined. The Ginger Strips on top were plentiful, a sprinkling of Coriander sat beneath. The watery residue I have come to associate with – Charsi – was collecting around the edges. The Masala was the distinctive, Tomato based, yet there was not the abundance associated with – Charsi. Not a trace of – pink.
The lack of Seasoning was immediately noted. The Spice Level was never going to be ferocious, but built steadily. Segments of cooked-in Green Chillies were unearthed as I made progress. A Tomato, then Peppery blast hit the palate. The depth of Flavour in a Charsi Karahi tends not to match that of a Lahori Karahi. Tends not to, however, two weeks ago at Afghan Darbar (Antwerpen) a new standard was set for Afghan Cuisine. There was an Afghan Karahi with an outstanding depth of Flavour. Today’s was on a par with what is served in Glasgow.
The Meat was chewy, the majority of the pieces were on-the-bone, two small Sucky Bones and many others. Care had to be taken, tiny bones, dangerous if not addressed properly. The Flavour of the Lamb itself was pronounced.
I was taking my time, the two chaps I had engaged with each asked the customary question. I had to declare my enjoyment, and took the opperchancity to glean some information. Shinwari has been open – one and a half months. After they consulted, I was assured that this Shinwari was separate from its predecessor.
Around the half way mark, judging by the array of bones on the adjacent plate, I had to re-evaluate my strategy. This – portion – was certainly the half kilo. The Bread was abandoned, I had managed but a third of the Naan.
A chap, dressed for the office, entered and dealt with the mail. Meet the new Boss?
Hello, sir! – the Hector had been hailed, but was there recognition? He disappeared before I could engage him further.
In time, I was staring at defeat. I had to eat all the Meat, and got there eventually. The low level of Seasoning maintained, the intensity of Flavour overall was as anticipated. The Oily residue on the base of the karahi plus some Masala Mash would normally have been wiped off, there lies pleasure in the extreme. This would require more Bread, today, not possible. The Hector appetite had been sated. Forty four minutes of eating, exhausted, why do I do this to myself? Salty lips, how had this come about?
The Bill
£16.00 No sneaky Salad, therefore no additions.
The Aftermath
It was a different young chap who dealt with the payment and therefore received the Calling Card. Hector Holmes was in full flow.
The Chef here is the same as at the original Shinwari Restaurant. The owner has many shops, Shawlands was mentioned, – Original Khyber – I assume, Namak Mandi was mentioned oft. I have a photo of the Chef from my visit to Original Khyber, and I saw him here today. As for Namak Mandi, the chap I know as The Boss from there is 
not the guy whom I met today. Another case for Hector Holmes who notes that Namak Mandi did not move to their larger premises at the end of last year as announced. One thing for certain, the half kilo at Shinwari is appreciably more substantial than has been served at Namak Mandi.
Menu extracts
