Having only become aware of the existence of Namaste by Delhi Darbar (St Enoch Centre 1st Floor, 55 St Enoch Square, Glasgow G1 4BW) in recent weeks, it meant there were now three venues in Glasgow on the – to do – list. Reviews elsewhere are positive, but not all specifically about the Curry.
I doubt if I have set foot in the St Enoch Centre since Debenhams closed. Apparently, facade aside, the whole kaboodle is due for demolition. Walking through the various levels today, people are already pulling out of what is now a sorry sight in terms of retail.
It was established that Namaste is close to the cinema, the Hector took escalators all the way to the top assuming movies had replaced ice-skating. The mini-Vegas took me by surprise. The cinema is at the opposite end, where BHS used to be.
Two diners were visible in Namaste as I entered the restaurant at 13.57. Regular readers will appreciate that such a precise time is building up to, well, wait and see. The waitress placed me near the fellow diners, such that I could hear their conversation, no need for this in such large, empty premises. Window dressing, but without windows.
I had previously studied the menu on-line and was therefore aware that there was only one Lamb Curry on the menu which was worthy of the Hector. For the record, and the nth time, Capsicum does not belong in authentic Karahi and Hector does not recognise Chicken Curry. This is Curry-Heute and that is how it is.
Lamb Bhoona (£10.00) and Basmati Pilau Rice (£4.00) was the Order, plus tap water. There was little point ordering Bread and leaving half of it, as tends to be the case. Four quid for Rice, that could be a hefty portion.
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Taking in the surroundings, it was evident that many Shekels had been invested in the décor. I would have appreciated seeing the premises from the inside, looking out. What happens to all this in the coming future?
The India Club at Hotel Strand Continental (Westminster) – will close on September 17. This is sad news, developers having their way there too. The long established India Club, formerly the staff canteen for the Indian Embassy, is one of only a handful of Curry Houses in Britain where the simple, straightforward – Curry – is that exceptional, one could pick it out in a line-up. One more visit is scheduled, if we can get in.
At Namaste, there was always the hope that Chef had something special waiting, something distinctive, this is always the hope when visiting any new Curry venue. I didn’t have long to wait, eight minutes after taking my seat, the food arrived. Call in the chaps from Guinness.
The Curry was in a soup plate, the Rice on a platter, no third plate. Why do restaurants do this? Adding Rice to a plate of Curry feels absurd.
The portion was standard, every grain would be managed.
This £4.00 portion was not for sharing.
Lamb Bhoona
The reasonably Thick Masala contained Syboes and featured seven pieces of Meat, not the magical eight. Rice was definitely the correct accompaniment, whilst not as – soupy – as my recent Bhuna in Köln, I had nothing to compare it with here. If this was – Bhuna – then what is their Curry like?
Finely chopped Onions and traces of Herb had been added to the blended Masala. Having counted the Meat, twice, it was decided that six pieces were worthy of halving, else all could have been devoured in a time comparable to its serving.
The Sweetness of the Masala hit first. The Seasoning was moderate to low. Having billed the Spice as being – medium strength – this quite impressed, a modest – kick.
The Lamb was super-soft, minimal chewing required. Decent Meat, but it was not giving anything back in terms of Spice or acquired Flavour. Tomato became evident in terms of Flavour, no skins/seeds were visible, no Whole Spices. There was a Seed in the Rice which I could not identify.
I have had this Curry, in effect, a hundred times. This was what passes for – Curry – across the European continent. Mainstream Curry for the masses, nothing offensive, safe, easy to eat. I know people who would happily devour this.
How I am going to miss the Curry at The India Club.
The Bill
£14.50 Look back to last Monday.
The Aftermath
The Calling Card was given to the waitress, my Curry preferences and travels were duly described. This was just Curry – felt like an appropriate summary.
If the Calling Card was passed up the chain of management, nobody came to talk.
Next Monday’s Curry will be something – very special.
Hector my dear fellow . I read and enjoy your blog on regular basis.
The point you miss is that there is simply not a sustainable market for your preffered curry . Most Scots can’t eat the Desi curry on a regular basis. It’s to spicy, salty to intense for the normal palate. Hence why the main stream curry exists. Can I finally say if you want another plate Ask. Ask for for your nan not be sliced. Ask not to be sat in the window. Anyway keep
up the good fight . I would love to join you for cuury-heute one day.
Hector replies:
I shall continue to tell it as it is.
Yes, we must eat together, Desi style of course!