Köln – eatDOORI Restaurant – Moderne indische Küche – Street Food, not a Curry House

Curry in Köln, with seventeen Curry Houses reviewed to date, the better ones more than once, the easy choice for today was to return to the tried and tested. Perhaps against better judgement, the Hector decided to visit the Köln outlet of the chain: eatDOORI Restaurant – Moderne indische Küche (Hohenzollernring 19, 50672 Köln Deutschland). This is one of five outlets across north and west Deutschland.

There was a rendezvous with Steve at 12.45. We were both five minutes early, and so entered the otherwise empty restaurant. A few customers sat at the outside tables. The waitress greeted and invited us to choose any table. A well situated table for two was selected. Despite the dim lighting, the Hector was able to capture photos of the modern layout, but maybe not the menu.

For Hector, there was only one Curry: Lamb Bhuna (€18.90) with inclusive Basmati. The alternatives were Chicken or Prawn variants, these too were limited. Steve would take the Lamb Bhuna option also.

You only have one Curry – I informed the waitress as she took the Order. This was not challenged. Steve ensured that we would be served an – above medium – Spice Level. He also added a Butter Naan (€2.90).

The reverse side of the menu had drinks. Nimbu Pani (€4.20), home-made lemonade completed the Order. A traditional Indian lemonade, this had a Spicy edge. Black Salt is apparently a key ingredient. This I have not seen in Glasgow’s Asian supermarkets, but then I haven’t been looking.

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At 12.52 there was a – ding – in the kitchen, another opperchancity to call in the Guinness chaps. Twelve minutes beats Shaha Tandoori (Carlisle,England).

The karahi were placed on the plates with the ample Rice portions. Steve had two little pots of distraction, one crossed the table. With Onion, Carrot and Cucumber, enough to provide a bit of Diversity. The Naan was quartered and served in a tall pot. Thin, peely wally, not risen, no blisters, as poor a Naan as one might encounter.

Lamb Bhuna

Shorva, really? In what way was this a Bhuna?

On arranging the Meat over the Rice, I reached double figures, Steve was already commenting on how little he had. The aroma from the Masala had me mentally registering – ah, Bisto!

I was already wishing I had gone elsewhere.

The Lamb was Tender and was giving of Flavour. However, the Flavour was very much of that which registers as Spice from a packet mixture, Cinnamon may be the standout. There was a decent – kick – and the Seasoning was decidedly satisfactory. Steve reckoned something like Tabasco had simply been stirred in at the end to up the Spice. There were positives, but overall, the depth of Flavour was lacking, this did not taste of authentic Curry.

The waitress came to ask the customary question.

This is not a Bhuna – I informed her – Bhuna should have a much thicker sauce, you can tell your Chef.

I spared her – minimal Masala, as in Dry, not Soup!

She offered to change it.

To what? You only have one Curry!

The compromise was that a Thicker Sauce would be provided. A few minutes later, and that did not surprise, a single karahi of a Thicker Masala was presented.

Masala #2 had a much greater viscosity. Why had we not been given this at the start?

Here was a more potent and complex Flavour, Steve was first to identify – smokiness. Now we had something more recognisable, a South Indian Bhuna perhaps. Bay leaves and micro-sliced Green Chillies were encountered. Masala #2 was even Spicier, not a problem.

Chef passed us by and smiled. We were at least eating his Curry. It still tasted as if the Spice mix had come straight from a packet.

As a Euro-portion of Rice, this was too much for Steve, but somehow I managed the lot. To have a photo of two karahi on top of a clean plate might be a first.

Steve’s verdict:

Too much Rice, the meat, in my case, was sparse. The meat was tender. Not a great Curry, with added Chilli/Tabasco added at end (of cooking). The sauce (#2) that came was perfectly acceptable.

Over-priced, I wouldn’t rush back.

The Bill

€49.10 (£42.23) The unit price of Curry is more than that typically charged for main courses of local fayre in Bier Houses.

The Aftermath

I have good news for you – I put to the waitress as I presented the Calling Card. This was graciously accepted with a comment as to why I was able to identify the failings of the Bhuna.

I showed her the drop-down menu at the top of the Curry-Heute page. There are recipes, you should show your Chef, there’s one for Bhuna!

Alas, being part of a chain, the above criticisms must be levied against whoever is in overall charge. One hopes the Street Food may show signs of efficacy.