Edinburgh – Desi Pakwan – Fine Punjabi Cuisine

Hector was in Praha this morning arriving back at Edinburgh Airport at 12.30. Some of – The Company – were assembling this afternoon in the East, and so Hector decided to postpone the rest of the journey back to Glasgow. Hector travelled down to Leith Walk last month to find Desi Pakwan (61 Leith Walk, Edinburgh EH6 8LS) not open at noon on a Thursday as Google Maps suggest. Surely by 14.00 they had to be?

Two chaps were tucking in to a share of something wonderful as I took my seat. They had evidently ordered from the – Traditional Punjabi Salan – section of the Menu. All on-the-bone Curry is cooked to order and takes forty five minutes. Hector was not prepared to spend this long waiting and so chose the Lamb Karahi (£9.95) from the – House Special. Achari Naan (£2.95), who has ever heard of this? It had to be tried.

Mein Host was running the show on his own, taking Orders, cooking and clearing up. One assumes that he has help later in the day. He asked if I wished the on-the-bone version – Desi Lamb Karahi – (£12.50) and sold by the half kilo. I was tempted but stuck to my plan, next time. As always, I sought confirmation that no Capsicum would appear in my Karahi. The reaction amused, he was quite adamant that he would never serve Peppers in a Karahi.

But your Fish Karahi (£9.95) does – I said pointing to the other side of the Menu.

Fish is different – he assured me.

Indeed, Fish is different and Fish Karahi is quite a rarity in Scottish Curry Houses. That’s two more visits to Desi Pakwan taken care of.

No Drink was ordered, no Water was forthcoming.

The two chaps departed, two ladies came in, this initially reduced my chances of securing photographic coverage of the layout of this Curry Cafe. There are eight tables which accommodate twenty four diners. The kitchen is open plan. One could not help but be impressed by the Muriel (sic) on the rear wall. Desi Pakwan is closed on Mondays.

Lamb Karahi

The pedigree of this Curry was immediately apparent. The Herb Topping was Minimal in the extreme. Sliced Green Chillies protruded from the Thick Masala. The Masala was Tomato-rich but not necessarily sans Onion.

It was good to see a genuine Naan once again. The teardrop shape was a welcome sight; a Tandoori Naan, light and fluffy with a sufficiency of burnt blisters. The aroma of Pickle was powerful, yet Fresh Coriander was the only visible topping. How the Pickle had been spread across this Naan remained a mystery. The Achari Handi (£9.50) had nearly tempted. Perhaps here I had the best of both worlds, or would the Pickle Flavour dominate as happens in a Garlic Naan?

The first dip of Naan into the Masala confirmed the efficacy of this Karahi. The Spice Level was certainly above – Medium – as had been agreed upon at the time of ordering. As I encountered the sliced Chillies, so the – Kick – was given a further boost. The Meat was Firm but Tender and was easily into double figures. I resorted to eating the Meat alone so as appreciate the Flavours here as intended, then continued dipping the Naan to enjoy the blend of the Masala and Achari. More Seasoning would have been welcomed, however, it would be churlish to criticise this very fine example of a Lamb Karahi. Why do so many venues serve up such poor imitations?

Mein Host was seeing to the ladies then crossed the room to ask the customary question.

Excellent, thank you – was the immediate response.

There is a plethora of Mainstream Curry Houses in the West End of this city which Hector is not in any rush to visit. Punjabi Junction is diagonally across from Desi Pakwan. Edinburgh’s south-side and Leith shall be visited whenever possible, not forgetting Haymarket’s outstanding – Lazeez Tandoori. Four of the six Edinburgh venues reviewed to date have seriously impressed, three are Punjabi, one South Indian.

The Bill

£13.90      £2.95 for the Naan, I ate nearly all of it.

The Aftermath

Mein Host was happy to pose for a photo when I introduced myself. I asked for clarification over the Thursday opening time. Noon was mentioned then 12.30 for serving.

Menu – extracts

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Praha – Sri Lankan Curry House – Another Major Discovery

Vinhorady, Hector has been visiting this part of Praha for many years.  Vinhorady appears to be the focal point for many of the new Craft Beer outlets, there are also three Curry Houses just off this square. Sri Lankan Curry House (U Vodarny 10, Praha 3 Vinhorady, Czechia) was today’s choice of  venue. Spending seventeen days in Sri Lanka in 2003 I loved the Curry, but became tired of Coconut in everything. Avoiding Coconut was in the back of the mind today, but Curry with Coconut if necessary is fine.

I arrived just on 14.00, a Buffet, available until 15.00, was advertised on a board at the door. 119Kc for eat all you can, is almost free food. I walked down the few steps into the basement premises.

A large Bar faced me with only two small tables opposite. Mein Host gestured to the passage beyond the Bar. Three rooms lay at the end of the corridor, two dining areas with the Buffet set up in the middle room.

I glanced at the food that was already on display: Beef Curry, Devil’s Livers, Beetroot Curry, Pumpkin Curry, Daal, and Stir Fry Vegetables.

My preference is always a la carte, freshly cooked food. Mein Host brought the Menu, it was brief, to the point. Sri Lankan Curry or Devil’s Speciality both available in Chicken, Pork, Beef, Lamb or Seafood. Devil’s Speciality in Lamb (220Kc) featured Soy Sauce which is more associated with Stir Fry, I would take the risk. He was happy to withhold the Peppers. Mein Host suggested Rice as an accompaniment, Vegetable Rice (95Kc) was the choice. Ginger Beer (45Kc) was not available, a 300ml bottle of Sparkling Water (30Kc) would suffice.

A couple were finishing their Buffet Lunch, four more diners arrived to take up this option. They all had their money’s worth. I was wondering if I should have  settled for Buffet, it was distinctly different from the norm. When Mein Host brought my Order, I knew I had chosen wisely.

Vegetable Rice

Sat on a Banana Leaf, this was a meal in its own right. The Quantity was such I knew immediately that I would only eat around half, a waste. Onions, Carrots and slivers of Leek/Cabbage were mixed through.

Devil’s Speciality

Small cut Lamb was accompanied by an array of Vegetables. The Onions were cut into blocks rather than slices.  There was an abundance of Tomatoes, I had the choice of both the Raw and  Cooked. The Green Vegetable had to be the listed Leek, this was a first. Slices of large Green Chillies were present also, Capsicum may not have been out of place in this Dish, it wasn’t a Curry. The Sauce was thicker than standard Soy Sauce, thickened with Cornflour? I must try this next time I make a Stir Fry.

I arranged half of the Devil’s Speciality on top of the flattened Rice, here we go.

I started with the Rice, oh yes! Somehow I am able to remember specific Flavours from the past. The last time I tasted this was aboard the M.V. Scotstoun in the summer of 1969 somewhere in the west periphery of the Atlantic Ocean. It is this particular blend of Rice and Spice that has stuck in my mind for Chinese Cuisine. The standard that was set by a Chinese crew all those years ago had been matched. This was going to be quite a meal.

The Vegetables in the Devil’s Speciality were al dente, crunchy. Leek is for Soup, or so I thought. Strips of Leek served in this way most certainly worked. The Onions were powerful, undercooking them had retained their potency. The Sauce had a decent – Kick – and was much more than Soy Sauce. Only Chef knows what extra Spices went into this creation. The Lamb was suitably Tender and still managed to stand out in the mass of Vegetables which lay before me.

Mein Host asked the customary question:

I like this! – was my simple reply.  The combination of Flavours was exciting.

Hector cooks Stir Fry quite regularly, nothing I have made has been as good as this. Brandy Ho’s Hunan Food (San Francisco) in 2018 was the last time I tasted anything this wonderful in this style. Today’s Sri Lankan experience is now recorded as one of the finest eating experiences, ever. I wish I had been able to finish all that had been presented. Why didn’t I take the leftovers back to my apartment?

As I relayed the saga to Steve later in the day, the thought of this Dish with King Prawns came to mind. Devil’s Speciality is available with Prawns (195Kc), but King Prawns? I wonder what would happen if I turned up with a bag of King Prawns and presented them to Chef? A November return to Praha has been mooted with – The Company. I shall most certainly return to Amritsar Mail and Sri Lankan Curry House, two outstanding venues.

The Bill

345Kc (£11.50) It is ironic to think that three people could have had the Buffet here for a comparable sum.

The Aftermath

Mein Host had stepped out, it was his wife who I spoke to after the meal. My enjoyment was communicated and the fact that I have been to Sri Lanka had to be dropped into the conversation.

Sri Lankan Curry House – Menu

Two blocks up the hill from Sri Lankan Curry House lies The Pind (Korunní 1151/67, 120 00 Vinohrady, Czechia), it too was open mid-afternoon. As I have found already this week, the range of choices for Chicken Curry outweighed the Lamb.

Walking around the perimeter of the park leads to Grand Rasoi (Slezská 1668/56, 120 00 Praha 2 – Vinohrady-Vinohrady, Czechia) which is a Indian & Thai Restaurant. Extracts from their somewhat extensive Menu are shown below.

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Praha – Spice Affair – Al Karim – A Comedy of Errors

There was a late start to the day, something to do with a late end to yesterday. The rendezvous at Al Karim (11 Jindrisska Nove Mesto Praha 1 Czechia) was pushed back to 14.00. Steve and Hector entered the building and followed the signs down to the basement.

There were no diners at Al Karim, a chap was manning the counter. He explained that one helps oneself and then the meal is weighed. This means that Rice is being charged at the same price as Meat and Masala, where is the logic in this? Chicken was the only Meat on offer, we left.

No trip to Praha would be complete without taking a tram to Lipanska. From there we walked down the hill to Punjabi Tadka (Chlumova 199/22 130 00 Praha 3-Zizkov, Czechia) which Google Maps report as open all day. Wrong!

A bus and metro ride later we arrived at Punjab Bistro (nam. Hrdinu 728/10, Nusle, 140 00 Praha 4 Nusle-Praha 4, Czechia) in the southern end of the city. The aroma of Curry wafted towards us as we approached. The lights were off, nobody was at home.

Chicken appears to be the only Meat on the Menu at Punjab Bistro.

Why do businesses not check what Google have as their opening times, surely it is in their best interest to have these accurately reported? I also tried using the phone links on Google Maps to verify that other nearby venues were open, the Huawei was not playing.

Back on the tram, two stops, and we were at Spice Affair (59/14, Nuseleska. 140 00 Praha 4-Nusle, Czechia) which we spotted yesterday en route to the impressive Zly Casy bar. Spice Affair was open, empty, it was 16.30. This was a late lunch.

The setup was similar to Al Karim, however, I had already checked that Lamb Curry was available, but none was on display. The chap pointed to the photos on the wall, Lamb Curry (215Kc) on-the-bone was illustrated. Lamb Curry it would be, take it or leave it. The photo of the Chapattis (30Kc) actually showed White Paratha, if so I had to have one. The chap showed me the Chapattis, they were standard, so the photo was misleading. Qeema Paratha (80Kc) was not available, Aloo Paratha (60Kc) was. Steve would have the same. We helped ourselves to cans (30Kc) from the fridge.

The Bill

610 Kc (£20.33) Paid in advance.

The chap disappeared to the kitchen at the rear of the premises, our meal would be presented on a Thali. Some of the food on display was arranged on the Thali, it was only having ordered that I realised that Rice was inclusive, quite a Feast was being prepared.

Twice I asked for a glass from which to drink my Mango Rubicon, the request fell on deaf ears. Only when the food was brought was I able to obtain a drinking vessel.

It’s cold – remarked Steve whilst Hector completed the photographic ritual. I checked mine, the Curry was tepid, the Rice had not been heated. Everything was colder than everything else. We sent back both meals.

I’m very sorry – said our chap, quite profusely. This was becoming a Comedy Curry.

And so we waited whilst the food was heated. How this was achieved intrigued, he couldn’t simply stick the Thali in a microwave, Hot Salad anyone? The Thalis were returned to us, this time I had Steve’s, we swopped. The difference? Steve had a Daal in the corner, I had Potato and Aubergine. Why we needed Yellow Rice and Plain Basmati puzzled, the latter was still cold. None of the food was particularly hot, it was at least edible. Where was the Bread?

I counted eight large pieces of Meat in a standard Masala. Steve had one piece on a large bone, I only encountered a sliver. The Potato and Aubergine Curry added a welcomed Diversity, better than the Daal I thought. The Raita on the Salad added a bit of distraction. Where was the Bread?

A young lady came in, studied what was on offer, then left. Our chap was still busy in the back. We ate on. The meal was quite underwhelming initially, it got better. The Meat was quite chewy despite having been well cooked. There was a sense that it belonged to the Masala. The Spice Level was moderate, the Seasoning was OK.

The warm Yellow Rice eaten, I spread some of the White Rice on the remaining Masala. Four pieces of Meat left, there was much more eating here than was perceived at the start. I was approaching the end game when the chap brought two Aloo Paratha and Raita, why so late?

The Aloo Paratha was very hot. Served in Quarters, they were visibly well stuffed with Potato.

These are Spicy – I remarked – they truly were and will go down in these pages as the Spiciest Paratha ever encountered. I ate two pieces only, Hector was well stuffed.

Steve looked at the plates the Paratha had arrived on and wondered why we could not have eaten our Curry from one of these. The Thali did make the meal look like a school dinner. Steve’s verdict:

Apart from the shambolic service, reasonably tasty food. The meat was tender, it was a decent Curry but could have been hotter. I didn’t like the way it was dished up.

The Aftermath

I gave the chap the Calling Card, conversation was minimal. Was this his business? Was he the Chef? We shall never know, Hector will not be back.

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Praha – Amritsar Mail – Exceptional Lamb Madras!

Curry-Heute is also about exploration, with a view to discovering venues which serve Curry as good as, or possibly even better than Glasgow’s Top Ratedsays the About page.

Occasionally Hector strikes gold, today at Amritsar Mail (Vodickova 701/34, 110 00 Nové Mesto, Praha, Czechia) a Lamb Madras was served that has to be celebrated. If the Hector level of enjoyment was at the top end of the scale, then the Reader must surely accept that this Curry was truly Excellent, Outstanding!

After last night’s frustration at Masala, Hector was very much in the mood for Curry. Amritsar Mail was first encountered last August but too late in the trip to investigate. Amritsar Mail was therefore scheduled to be Curry #1 this week. Hector arrivived at 12.25, Steve texted to say he would be a few minutes later. As expected, he found it difficult to locate Amritsar Mail being in an arcade off Vodickova.

A Waiter let me choose any table which meant the view from the corner was secured, in full view of the Buffet. The line of small tables in front of the counter was avoided, OK for one person, not for two.

It looked like everyone else was here for the Buffet which was charged from 119Kc, about £4.00. I had a glance, two Chicken Dishes and a Daal, though Steve insisted later he spotted something in Lamb. The Menu was provided, once again in Praha it featured many more Chicken Dishes than Lamb. Lamb Kadai (265Kc) was considered, but was the Capsicum in the Masala as suggested, or worse? The Chicken Kadai was in the Buffet, Soup, no thanks. Playing safe, Lamb Madras (255Kc) became the choice. Had Steve been present, Hector would have chosen something else, this is the Steve Curry. Mutter Pulao (75Kc) would accompany. The Sparkling Water was only available in small bottles, Home-made Lemonade (55Kc) would be served as a half litre, Hector required liquid that was not Piwo.

The Waiter took my Order as he cleared the adjacent table, nothing was written down. The Jar of Lemonade arrived moments later, refreshing, but I could have done without the Mint and the straw.

Steve arrived @12.45, he too studied the Buffet before asking for the Menu. Methi Chicken (195Kc) and a Plain Naan (50Kc) was ordered along with the Lemonade.

Lamb Madras

The Toppings intrigued. In addition to the standard Ginger Strips and Coriander (?) were Seeds, possibly Mustard Seeds. The Slivers of Tomato also pleased, how many venues would have used the dreaded Green Vegetable?

That looks good – said Steve as I completed the photographic ritual.

The Meat was arranged over the well judged portion of Rice. Double figures were reached, some pieces would be halved, this was a decent Quantity.

The first mouthful of Meat, Masala and Rice brought immediate pleasure. The Seasoning registered and then an amazing array of Flavours. The Spice Level was not challenging, there was a decent – Kick – but, oh, the intensity of Flavour.

This is bloody marvellous – was an almost involuntary exclamation, Steve took a sample, he concurred.

The Meat was soft, yet the first piece sampled was a bit chewy. Thereafter the required level of – Tenderness – prevailed, though the occasional piece of Fat was encountered. The Richness of the Masala was astonishing. I could see white flecks which I took to be Garlic. Curry Leaves were set aside. Cumin Seeds were present, these may have been in the Rice as the Buffet Rice was – Jeera Rice. The Seeds were too small to be Peppercorns but larger than Onion Seeds which were also identified. Even the Peas stood out, I cannot recall tastier Peas. This Lamb Madras was astonishing, right up there with the best of Curry encounters.

There is Curry in Praha, Indian Happy Tandoor impressed once then lost their Chef. Mailsi – Pakistani Restaurant and Curry House are reliable, this Lamb Madras at Amritsar Mail was in a different league. If one only had time for one Curry when visiting Praha, this must be it.

Methi Chicken

Three of the same Toppings were present, not the Seeds. The Masala was clearly the same as presented in the Lamb Madras but with flecks of Herb mixed in – Methi!

Yes, no? – I asked.

It’s good.

*

*

The Naan was pale, not fired enough, but at least the shape suggested it had been cooked in a Tandoor, not on a Tawa. I was outside trying to get a phone signal whilst Steve ate. I asked for his verdict on my return:

The Chicken is a bit tasteless, the sauce is fine.

It’s a pity that so many people eschew Lamb in favour of this almost impervious Meat which simply does not – Curry. Now we can imagine – Methi Lamb.

The Bills

385 Kc (£12.80) for Hector, 300 Kc (£10.00) for Steve.

The Aftermath

Your Lamb Madras was truly exceptional – was my introduction to Curry-Heute. Cards were exchanged, the Waiter asked if I would write something on their Website. Hopefully I can post a link to this review.

The arrival of Craft Beer in Praha has transformed the experience. The smoking ban has made this experience so much more enjoyable. Now there is truly exceptional Curry. I am not waiting twelve months to return, a trip to Praha, anyone?

Menu Extracts

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Praha – Masala – Lights out, Lights out in Prague

What were the chances of discovering a Curry House some thirty metres from the apartment? (emoticon understood) Masala (J. Masaryka 326/36, 120 00 Vinohrady, Praha Czechia) is that very venue. Steve decided to call it a day, it was only 22.00, Hector could not resist the Curry opperchancity. Two chaps stood customer side of the counter, Mein Host opposite.

Are you open? – Hector was beckoned in.

Masala was closing soon, a point Mein Host was keen to get across, Google Maps suggest 22.30. The Tandoor is already closed – I was told.

It is Curry I wish, would you like me to have a Takeaway?

A Menu was provided and the empty tables gestured to, I took this as an invitation to stay, to eat in. Mein Host was keen to serve but again informed me – we close in twenty minutes.

Hector was under pressure, the Menu was not overlong, three Dishes stood out: Kadai, Fenugreek and Chettinad were present, but all in the – Chicken – category. The – Lamb – section was decidedly – Mainstream, Minimal.

You have these wonderful Chicken Dishes but not in Lamb – hoping that versatility was an option – I do not eat Chicken Curry.

Mein Host replied with something along the lines of:

You have to blame my boss.

Hector had had his Chicken-Heute, the first meal in any trip to Praha is Chicken Wings served at Novomestsky Pivovar, 400g of sheer indulgence washed down by a remarkably tasty Piwo.

There was nothing else to do but accept defeat, Hector left the building. The lights went out.

If one is happy to eat Chicken Curry, then Masala may well be worthy of investigation, but don’t leave it late in the day.

Posted in Masala | 1 Comment

A different approach to Karahi Gosht, plus Hector’s first attempt at Home-made Paratha

For those expecting Butter Chicken, get real, Karahi Gosht trumps all! Watching Parveen’s Sunday morning TV programme has made Hector determined to make Bread. Chapattis were tried years ago, yeuch! Parveen showed how to make a Stuffed Paratha, however, this was far from the style Hector seeks. Cue a YouTube site which revealed all. Meanwhile someone on a Social Medium posted a link to a radically different approach to creating an authentic looking Karahi Gosht. Such were the time-outs in preparation both could, in effect, be prepared simultaneously, but it did make for a very busy afternoon.

Whilst I appreciate people’s efforts in posting videos, I still prefer to see a Recipe as a list with clear instructions which can be referred to with ease.

Mughlai Karahi Gosht

Ingredients – Part 1:

1 kg Lamb on-the-bone

1 dessert spoon Ginger Paste

1 dessert spoon Garlic Paste

2 tsp Salt

The Salt, Ginger and Garlic Pastes were stirred into the Lamb and left to marinade overnight.

I have tried a similar approach but have added Yoghurt at this stage. So when does the yoghurt go in, and how much?

Ingredients – Part 2:

4 tbsp Vegetable Oil

1 tin Tomatoes or 500g fresh, sliced

Onion by weight to match Tomatoes, thinly sliced

1.5 tsp Chilli

2 tsp Salt

This is appreciably less Oil than appears in Hector’s Recipes.

The Oil was heated the Lamb added and partly browned. A Restaurateur in Glasgow told me once that in Punjabi Cuisine the Meat is not browned, so a different start.

For a change I used Fresh Tomatoes and was amazed at how much liquid there was in the pot. Finely chopped Onions is what I was taught, large slices was another departure from the norm. I used a Red Onion as two White Onions would have spoiled the balance of Tomato and Onion.

On a low gas, the mixture was covered and cooked for thirty minutes. At the halfway mark the now Mash was stirred. It was beginning to look like – Curry – but was still wetter than anything I would normally prepare. I turned off the heat whilst I attended to the Bread, I wanted the Mash to cool a bit before adding the Yoghurt else it may curdle.

Ingredients – Part 3:

2 tbsp Greek Yoghurt

2 tsp Coriander

0.5 tsp Turmeric

1 tsp Cumin Seeds – crushed

0.75 tsp coarse Black Pepper

0.25 tsp Garam Masala

2 Green Chillies – slit lengthwise

3 cm Ginger Strips

2 tbsp Chopped Fresh Coriander

It was Yoghurt time. The Coriander, Turmeric, Cumin Seeds and Black Pepper were stirred into the Yoghurt. The Quantities of each of these I regard as quite minimal, only two Chillies also, this was never going to be a Karahi Gosht that would blow one’s head off. I had a very Creamy looking Wet Curry.

Forty five minutes more cooking followed with the lid of the pot half on. This reduced the liquid and allowed the Lamb to cook properly. I have seen too many TV shows etc. where it is suggested that Lamb can be cooked in just over half an hour, it cannot. I had also left the Lamb as it was cut at KRK, normally I would halve each piece. This was another test for this Recipe.

After forty five minutes the Masala was suitably reduced, time to stir in the chopped Coriander Leaves. All things being equal, the Mughlai Karahi Gosht was ready to serve, but Hector was still busy on the other side of the cooker.

For the Garnish:

2 tbsp Coriander Leaves – chopped

Ginger Strips

Sliced Large Green Chillies

The result was a suitably Dry Karahi. I took a Soupçon: with fewer Ingredients both in terms of Quantity and Range this was surprisingly full of Flavour. The Kick was no more than Moderate, as expected.

Paratha

Bread has made very few appearances in Hector’s Home Cooking. Shop bought Bread tends to disappoint, ASDA’s Garlic and Tomato Flatbread being the exception. A Restaurateur suggested to Hector recently that when Restaurant Bread disappoints it is often down to the fact that it has been bought in the local supermarket.

Parveen showed how easy it was to make a Chapatti, Dr. Alasdair gave Hector a Chapatti Recipe on a visit to Carnoustie. Hector make Bread, aye right. At the start of the week Hector had planned Chapattis, Wholemeal Chapatti Flour was purchased. A Tawa Pan was ordered online, instead a huge Stockpot arrived. Can I keep it? When Paratha became fixed in the mind so White Chapatti Flour was sought, only Medium Chapatti Flour was sourced.

A Paratha should be Light, Soft, Layered, Flaky and preferably show signs of – The Swirl. How the latter is achieved has remained a mystery until this week. Hector now knows, the challenge was to achieve it. At the outset there was a single thought that prevailed, if successful, just how intolerant, nay insufferable is Hector going to be in Restaurants which serve up anything less?

Ingredients:

3 cups Flour

2 tsp Salt

1 Egg

Water (who knows how much?)

Ghee

One has to mix the Ingredients then – knead. We have all seen it done. Somehow a Chef/Baker is able to transform these simple, inexpensive Ingredients, into Dough. I went from too dry a mixture with everything sticking to everything else, to visibly too much Water. More Flour on the worktop, Doh! It worked, however, the Flour at this point revealed its Wholemeal properties. Hector had his heart set on the White Paratha.

Leave covered with cling film for 30 minutes – said the Video Source. This gave time to return the attention to the Masala.

When the Dough was removed from the fridge it had much more cohesion and was pliable. Things were looking good. The Dough was cut into four balls, too large, five was better.

How does one use a rolling pin to make a – Round? I tried Parveen’s – Chapatti Clap – to make the Dough stretch in my hands, this had moderate success. The results were somewhere between Round, Rectangular and Random. Hector was undaunted.

The Swirl, this has puzzled for years. The best Paratha shows a spiral as well as the Layering etc. A layer of Ghee was spread across the rolled out Dough, and a sprinkling of the Flour added also. The next part is genius.

A radius was cut to the centre of each – Round. Working anticlockwise, the Dough was folded in about 1cm sectors, over and over, all the way around. On picking it up, there was the conception of – The Swirl. As best I could, the edges were pulled apart to create a sort of – Rose Petal – effect. At this point I felt there was far too much Ghee. The elongated mass of Dough was plonked on the worktop Ghee-side down. The top was then pressed down to permit the formation of another Dough-ball. The task became easier each time, perhaps even more time in the fridge would have helped, or was it the Dough returning to room temperature? Five were created, covered in cling-film, and once again placed in the fridge, this time for fifteen minutes.

I expected to make two Parathas, three at most, the extra Dough could then have been frozen. Not knowing how well the next part would go I decided to keep everything out.

Daal Makhani

Having stuck rigorously, well nearly, to the Recipe for the Karahi Gosht, this would only provide Meat and Masala. The packet of Daal Makhani has been in the cupboard for too long, this may well have turned out to be the only edible part of tonight’s meal.

Five minutes, boil in the bag, Simples.

*

Paratha – The Cooking

Two Dough-balls were rolled out to create as near a – Round – as Hector was ever going to get. The frying pan was heated to a medium heat. Who has my Tawa?

The Dough was placed in the dry frying pan, a layer of Ghee was spread over the over top side, then immediately turned, again the top was covered in Ghee. There was plenty of Ghee in the frying pan, large blisters grew in the Dough, was this the revelation of layering? There was no sign of – The Swirl – when I initially placed the Dough in the frying pan. Behold, there was most certainly signs of – Curves – emerging on the surface of the almost-Paratha. I turned it over and over again, when the Bread became Brown on both sides, I removed it from the frying pan.

I had a Paratha, it was decidedly greasy, cue the kitchen towel.

A second was made in the now very Buttery frying pan. Serve, eat immediately.

Had I chosen to precook them, I could have dried them off,  reheated later in the dry pan then add some normal Butter, placed centrally, at the time of serving to reintroduce the glistening.

The Bill

A bag of Flour cost £1.99. From this I could have made more than fifty Parathas. OK, there’s the Eggs and the Ghee, but Paratha still only cost pennies to make. We are being ripped off in Restaurants.

Friday Night Curry

For most, the working week was over, not Marg. The alarm will ring at 05.50 tomorrow, Marg will be off to inspect the playing fields.

Mughlai Karahi Gosht, Daal Makhani and Paratha

The Karahi Gosht had become even drier in the couple of hours it had sat in the pot. The Masala was as Thick as I desire. The Spice Level was well within acceptable parameters, the extra slices of Chillies were required, for Hector. Two features of the Flavour astonished. I know how much Salt went in, four teaspoons, this was a Well Seasoned Curry, ah, the Bread was helping too. Citrus, from where was this coming? No Lemon Juice or Tamarind had been added as I normally would, this was quite remarkable. Hector was happy with the simplicity of Flavours. Marg would deliver her verdict later.

The Paratha had dried quite a bit by the time it reached the table. It was Soft, Layered, Flaky, very Flaky, and showing a sense of something – Curved – in places. The edges felt a bit Crispy initially, again this subsided. Hector rarely eats a whole Paratha, Marg and Hector both ate a Paratha each. Success? Absolutely!

Next time, slightly less Salt, much less Ghee, and further research this evening suggests that Plain Flour may achieve the White Paratha I seek.

Henceforth there shall be Bread served with Curry at Hector’s House. Marg may well prefer a Chapatti as his her wont. Simples, in comparison, and a good way to use up the Wholemeal Chapatti Flour.

The Daal Makhani added the required Diversity, Marg didn’t take much of it, she was too busy devouring the Karahi Gosht. I am tempted to try making a Daal for the first time also, Parveen has much to answer for, though nothing prepared today was hers.

Usually Marg complains about the Spice Level as soon as she starts to eat any Curry, not tonight. Also, I managed to give her only a couple of Bones.

Marg’s verdict:

Minimal sauce, just as Hector likes it. Tender meat, strong flavours with a good kick of Ginger and Coriander. The home-made Paratha was a lovely bonus, and the Daal added a different flavour to the sauce. A great treat for a Friday. Too much washing up.

Marg should have been in the kitchen around 16.00.

The Aftermath

It is time to reveal the Source of today’s creations:

Mughlai Karahi Gosht

http://maunikagowardhan.co.uk/cook-in-a-curry/mughlai-karahi-gosht-slow-cooked-lamb-curry-with-tomatoes-garlic-and-garam-masala/

Thank you, Maunika Gowardhan

Paratha

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G8BSGywfRMs

Maybe Butter Chicken next time.

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Glasgow – Banana Leaf – The Fifth Visit

On the last visit I said I would be back for the Fish Moilee (£7.99). The Prawn Kozhumbu (£7.99) is one for the future. Arriving at 15.00, Banana Leaf was empty. Chef was working away at the rear of the kitchen, greetings were exchanged. It was another Chap who took the Order. The price includes the choice of Rice, two Chapattis or a Paratha. Given the – Soupy Curry – served at Banana Leaf, Rice is mandatory. Given the Quality of the Paratha (£1.50) served here, one simply just has to have one. I asked for Tap Water, a Jug was duly provided.

The portion of Rice matched that which Marg and Hector shared midweek at Green Gates (Renfrew). This was a large portion for one person. The Parathas are on the small side, but for once a whole one can be eaten, even when accompanied by all this Rice. The Parathas are Wonderful at Banana Leaf, so Soft, Flaky, the Spiral, Light in colour and served – Whole! So tasty, abundant Ghee.

Fish Moilee

Six rectangular pieces of White Fish were decanted, the Quantity matched the realistic price being charged. The Masala was Creamy and had a highly visible Coconut content. Fortunately any Sweetness from the Coconut was masked by the hoped for – South Indian – Smoky Flavour. This was why Hector was here, the appetite for this cannot be sated presently.  For the record, this Curry was way more than being just a Spicy Korma.

The Texture of the Fish was Perfect, far from the – rubbery – experience at Maharaja (Sliema) last week. Malta was a week ago, where next? With Fish Curry, one expects a powerful Flavour from the Fish itself, this was not the case here. The Fish just managed to give enough to avoid its presence being regarded as arbitrary. This Curry was all about the Masala. The Paratha and the Masala were made for each other, yet Hector still considers the Rice to be necessary. Perhaps one day a two Paratha option will be risked – Splash!

The Bill

£9.50 Not £9.49 then?

The Aftermath

There was no discourse with – the other Chap, he had never seen me before.

However, today is an historic day, the Fifth Visit, and so Banana Leaf is added to Glasgow’s Top Rated and therefore is also added to Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses.

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Hector cooks Tandoori-style Chicken

Chicken Tikka tell me what’s wrong…

Hector has been watching Parveen’s Indian Kitchen for the last few weeks, useful lessons have been learned. Watch this space for future Blogs on an attempt to make Paratha, and even Butter Chicken which remains Marg’s favourite Curry.

Tandoori, Tikka what’s the difference? Apparently it is simply down to whether the Meat has been skewered or not, the latter being regarded as Tikka. Hector has a fundamental problem, no Tandoor. The Kaiserhoff Gas Hob Tandoor purchased a few years ago has long since been binned. It steamed the Meat and did not create the recognisable Burnt Tandoori Flavours. According to Parveen, a hot oven can create worthy results.

Chicken Thighs have proven to be the best cut of this bird which Hector has always maintained cannot be marinaded. Yesterday, the following were combined to create the required marinade:

200ml Greek Yoghurt

6 cloves of Garlic, grated

3 tsp Tandoori Powder

1 tsp Chilli Flakes

2 tsp Salt

Lemon Juice

The Chicken Thighs were scored, mixed in, then left overnight in the fridge. No Red Food Dye was used, it’s disgusting.

The oven was preheated to 240ºC, the hottest the oven has ever been set to in Hector’s House. Two baking trays were oiled to prevent sticking. Twenty minutes was the given cooking time, in went the Chicken Thighs smothered in the marinade.

Parveen also demonstrated the creation of an Indian Coleslaw. Once upon a time, Marg was let loose in the kitchen and produced what – she called Coleslaw.

That’s not Coleslaw I told her, that chopped Carrots and Cabbage in Mayonnaise. Everything was chunkier than everything else. Never again, until today. Roughly cut Cabbage and Red Onion were prepared then added to a mix of the following:

Half a small bowl of Mayonnaise, plus half of Greek Yoghurt

1 tsp Salt

1 tsp Pepper

1 tsp Turmeric

1 tsp Nigella Seeds

Once the Cabbage and Onions were stirred in, 2 tsp Tamarind was mixed in, only then was the shredded Carrot added. The – Coleslaw – looked too – Dry. Instinct suggested Vinegar was required, in went some Salad Cream, much better.

ASDA’s Tomato and Garlic Flatbread has been enjoyed recently, Marg had yet to experience it. The Flatbread went into the very hot oven for the final six minutes.

Tandoori Chicken

This had the hoped for burnt extremities and appeared to be cooked through. Fresh Coriander was added as a Garnish.

The first mouthful was a revelation – Wow! This was Tandoori Chicken, as good as anything Hector has encountered. The Flavours were up to expectations, the Seasoning clearly helped, the Lemon Juice had worked its magic.  To what extent the Marinade was true or peripheral is still up for discussion.  Marg took two Chicken Thighs and was well impressed, so much so that having declared she had finished, she took a piece of the remaining Thigh, then another, and another. Success.

Next time I may skewer the Meat, despite oiling the baking tray as instructed, there was a too sticky residue. I will also up the Lemon Juice, I don’t think one can have too much.

The Flatbread remained tasty and soft and was pretty much devoured, another success.

The Coleslaw was decidedly different from anything previously encountered wearing that moniker. It was OK, next time I would properly shred the Vegetables as in American-style Coleslaw.

According to Parveen’s TV programme, Tandoori Chicken is the required Meat for Butter Chicken, this will be appearing soon.

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Renfrew – Green Gates – A Name from The Past

It’s that time of year when every Chap has to take his Chapatti out for a romantic dinner. Cheaper than flowers, and two people get to enjoy. Marg has another commitment tomorrow and so Hector gets to save a few bob by being out a day early.

Green Gates (65 Ferry Rd, Renfrew PA4 8SH) was the chosen venue for this – Special Curry. Green Gates! The namesake of the venue on Gibson Street (Glasgow) where Hector had his first Restaurant Curry @1966-7, a Lamb Vindaloo, of course. Marg was here with – The Carnoustie Two – last year whilst Hector was abroad, someone had done their research, Dr. Alasdair. The online Menu showed Lamb Shank (£14.80) in the – Special Menu – section. When accompanied by a decent Masala it can be excellent, when served in a Shorva, forget it. Well, that’s how Hector sees it.

Green Gates is two miles from Hector’s House as the crow flies, Hector is not a crow. However, when the new bridge is built across the Clyde, Yoker/Clydebank will be minutes from Renfrew/Braehead. Meanwhile, the foot ferry plods on. Green Gates, as the address confirms, is seconds from the terminal.

Stirling is where Green Gates began, there is quite a pedigree. The two main chaps worked at Mother India, the Restaurant, then Chain, which revolutionised Curry in the West of Scotland. Renfrew is the second Green Gates outlet in Scotland.

Hector and Marg were out – to dine – this evening – and to sample Indian Cuisine rather than Hector’s customary – Punjabi. We arrived sometime after 20.00, a few diners were in situ. We were greeted by Mein Host who initially offered us a small table in the midst of les autres. Hector held out for a larger table, the last table before the access to the rear dining area. This is quite a sizeable premises, one wonders if they will be full tomorrow evening?

The Main Menu and the Special Menu were provided, the Drinks Menu was already on the table. A Large Bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.25) was what Hector had in mind. A Metal Pitcher of Tap Water and two Goblets appeared from behind me.

Hector throws down the Goblet (sic)

With the Mother India connection, Hector expected Marg to have Butter Chicken, available as a Main Course (£9.95) or – Small (£6.95). Marg regards the Butter Chicken served at Mother India’s Cafe as – The Best. This is partly down to the Quality of the Curry but also the Tapas-sized portion. Marg finds a full portion of Butter Chicken to be excessive. Hector’s plan was to avoid just – Meat & Masala – by ordering the Mixed Vegetable (£7.50) as a sharing Curry, then both of us should have the required – Diversity.

Initially Marg was not playing. She studied all her options, but finally came on board. A Chapatti (£1.30) was her first mooted accompaniment. In the end, Hector’s preferred share of a Paratha (£3.30, ouch!) and Basmati Fried Rice (£2.90) was deemed acceptable. This is our norm, especially when visiting a new venue: the Quantity of Rice can be assessed and also the efficacy of the Bread.

The Chap whom I would later know to be – The Manager – came to take the Order. I asked if there were Green Peppers in the Mixed Vegetable, apparently so. It was agreed that these would be withheld.

Are you allergic? – he asked, I know they have to cover themselves given what happened in England last year. My abhorrence of Capsicum in Curry was related, Marg was worried when I said – Chillies are OK, just no Peppers. Marg feared a Chilli overdose.

No Starters? – he asked, this appeared to take him aback. I think we had ordered enough. The Order taken, he was back moments later, they only had 500ml Bottles of Sparkling Water (£1.95).  He brought two.

There was a brief chat at this time. That we had travelled to get here was appreciated. Hector believed the Yoker Ferry to be closed, apparently it was reinstated last year. Good information, but how late does it operate?

Soup, not Shorva!

Two tiny portions of Tomato Soup were brought to us. The Manager explained that as our Order was being properly prepared, it would take some time. This was a Complimentary Soupçon! (did I actually just write that…)

The Tomato Soup had a Spice Topping, was Hot and did the job. It tasted far better than my ongoing – Tomato Puree – prepared this afternoon and based on Parveen’s Sunday morning Indian Cookery programme. This too will become Butter Chicken, but not yet.

The food began to arrive, we needed the space. The Butter Chicken was placed nearer me, come on!

The Rice was enough to share, the Paratha, take a look at the Paratha. I have never seen such layering. This Paratha had the – Swirl – was Flaky and was served whole. We had the perfect accompaniments for the Main Courses.

Lamb Shank

Topped with Ginger Strips and a few Fresh Coriander Leaves, this was a work of art. The size of the plate looked, well, silly. But I suppose it had to be this size to accommodate the large piece of Lamb on-the-bone and the lake of Masala which accompanied. Dining alone, I would have eaten from this plate, however there was the Mixed Vegetable to consider and the Rice, decanting was necessary. It was only at this point that I realised the Masala was not just sauce but had quite a few pieces of Boneless Lamb in there too. I took a sufficiency and was then overcome with a flush of generosity. Knowing Marg had minimal Meat, I gave her a couple of decent sized pieces of Lamb, that went down well.

Mixed Vegetable

The Carrots stood out, I have never seen so many and such large pieces of Carrot in a Vegetable Curry, no artistry here. The Peas were also highly visible, the petite florets of Cauliflower would reveal themselves later, Potato? None seen. The Masala impressed. This was in the Hector style: Thick, sufficient, the counterpoint to the accompanying the Lamb Shank.

The first strip of Paratha was dipped into the Lamb Shank Masala, we had a winner! Aniseed was the first Spice to register on the palate, moments later this was altered to Clove. It may have been a combination of both, embarrassing if it was neither. Most importantly, this Masala had a decent Texture and had a genuine depth of Flavour. Latterly, Venison came to mind, this Masala had the richness of Flavour I have come to associate with a Venison Curry, dark, earthy, Umami. Mixing it in with the Rice was very satisfying. Marg knew there was more Masala than I would ever eat, already she was  making plans for it to come home.

The Meat was in two parts. The Boneless Meat perhaps belonged to another Curry, but nothing I could identify from tonight’s Menu. I would happily have had this as a Main Course. It was time to tackle the Lamb Shank itself.  Careful, Hector, eat it, don’t wear it. The Lamb came off the bone with ease, a knife had to be employed to cut it onto more manageable pieces. This Lamb was beyond – Tender. I have encountered some great Quality Lamb in the last couple of months, this must have surpassed everything. The Meat, the Masala, the Paratha, there’s more.

Any Flavours from the Mixed Vegetable were initially drowned by the richness of the rival Masala. The ratio of Carrots to everything else still amused, then I found some Potato, two pieces, Yay! Marg had finished, all that was left was Hector’s. Having taken the last third of the Mixed Vegetable the enjoyment of the – more than just Meat and Masala – was continuing. It was only at this point that the Flavours of this Curry registered. How the palate was able to take on any more surprised this writer, mission accomplished.

No mention has been made of the Spice Level or Seasoning which is the normal Curry-Heute template, no notes were taken on these. The Spice was there but was never demanding. The Seasoning must have been spot on, particularly in the Lamb Shank Masala.

Butter Chicken

Chicken Soup topped with Almonds is how Hector is always going to see this Curry, it is not for me; Marg loves it. The portion matched her needs exactly, enough, not a sickly excess.

Lovely, quite tomatoey, very tasty – were Marg’s first words on the Butter Chicken. Marg confirmed that the Quantity of Masala was such that it required the Rice. What she had here worked well for her:

I liked the tapas.

However, the Lamb pieces certainly impressed Marg also:

Having the Lamb was a lovely contrast.

Everything was eaten except a scrap of the Paratha and the excess Masala from the Lamb Shank. The latter would be left, Hector is working hard at developing new Masalas at home, this would have been an unnecessary distraction.

We chose well – I said to the Manager as he cleared the table. He congratulated us on our choices, but then he was hardly going to take the – p.

Marg was not finished, Mango Ice Cream (£3.95) and an Extra Hot Latte (£2.95) would complete her meal. Hector had been sated, why dilute the wonderful Flavours which were still on the palate?

When the Ice Cream came, one spoon somehow became  two. Hector succumbed, delightful Ice Cream. The Coffee was also as Hot as Marg required. Success.

The Bill

£46.25     It must be Hector’s birthday soon.

The Aftermath

I managed to give the Calling Card to Mein Host, and so began the lengthiest of chats. I believe this was Balram, his years with the Mother India group were related and the opening of their first premises in Stirling. He and his partner Tarun wish to recreate the true style of Indian Curry. Delhi is the city whose Curry has inspired the Fayre at Green Gates. His observation is that people either like their interpretations of Dishes and so return, or quite simply they don’t. He related the tale of a couple who ordered Chicken Pakora and complained it was not – Red. It appears we are on the same page. Green Gates keep their Menu deliberately small, not the page after page of endless tweaks to what comes out of the same pot. The aim is to serve Authentic Cuisine.

Raan for Two (£29.50), a whole Leg of Lamb, is a Dish they are clearly proud of. I wonder how many takers they have? A challenge, for two chaps perhaps?

A third outlet is hoped for, Gibson Street was mentioned. It would be magnificent if they could somehow acquire the original premises, West End rent… What was once the home of Glasgow Curry has no Curry Houses presently, they could make a killing. In the meantime, when is the new bridge over the Clyde due for completion?

The Menu (extracts)

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – Chef Rashid works his wonders

There was an early rise this morning, 03.45 (GMT) to accommodate a flight from Malta back to Glasgow-Prestwick. There was only one thing on Hector’s mind thereafter, a Karahi Gosht (£7.90) at Karahi Palace (51 – 53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ). Actually, there were two things on Hector’s mind, a Ceilidh (dance) on the Southside to which the Curryspondent had been summoned, by Marg. Payback time.

Eight Maltese Curry Dishes have been reviewed in the past week, whilst Maharaja (Sliema) most certainly impressed, the Maltese Curry experienced was nowhere near the same Quality as what is presented in the finest Glasgow Curry Houses. Today was Visit #99 to Karahi Palace. Whilst Curry-Heute has featured a significant array of the Dishes served hereKarahi Gosht reigns supreme.

Arriving just before 18.00, Qaiser was behind the counter, he looked up and smiled. Taking my favourite seat, Chef Rashid looked over from – his spot – and beamed:

How are you?

This was Hector’s first visit to Karahi Palace in 2019. Visit #100 is likely to be in the first half of March, this means I cannot return for a sneaky visit before then. One is tempted to eat at Karahi Palace every week, every day, even.

Qaiser came over to take the Order, as if he didn’t know it. Karahi Gosht and a Chapatti (£0.70). This was relayed verbally across the room to Chef Rashid. Hector had not asked for the usual – extra Salt, extra Methi. Chef Rashid is – The Man – he knows.

Phone orders were aplenty, a new Chap was busy doing deliveries. I saw Jim post, on a Social Medium, photos of a decidedly inferior product from a Curry House in Paisley which Hector may now never visit. Their Chicken Curry looked appalling. Mainstream Curry is available everywhere for those who desire it. For those who wish to be kept up to date with the finest of Punjabi Cuisine in particular, there is Curry-Heute.

Karahi Gosht

Large Green Chillies topped the Karahi Gosht along with Fresh Coriander Stems and Leaves. The Chillies had been cut lengthwise, the Coriander Stems would add a sense of – Grittiness. Beneath the – forest – the Oil sizzled, this Curry was far too hot to touch, but as nature has decreed, not too hot to eat. I tore a strip from the equally hot Wholemeal Chapatti. How good it was to see Bread being charged at an honourable price. I scooped some of the Masala Mash with the Chapatti… ‘kin’ell!

The Seasoning hit the palate hard as simultaneously did the whole gamut of Karahi Palace Flavours. Wonderful, Excellent, Sublime, do not do this Karahi Gosht justice. The Thick Masala was sufficient in Quantity to cover the Meat, it was dark, mysterious and most importantly – Herb-rich. Hector had his Methi, again. The Bones were still too hot to touch, I could see Lamb Chops and Marrowbone, the Meat was stewed, this was not Tandoori to be simply covered in Masala. Eventually it was time to savour the Lamb. How many times have I written about Meat and Masala being strangers? Too often. This was the complete Curry, everything in harmony.

Eating from the karahi meant that both Meat and Masala were still hot at the base, significantly warmer at the end of eating than Maltese Curry was at the start. There was the inevitable disappointment when the base of the black karahi stared back, bare and shiny. Karahi Palace #100 will surely feature the half kilo?

The Bill

£8.60       Yes, this is what one pays for the Finest of Curry in Glasgow!

The Aftermath

I spotted Kofta Anda on display under the counter, another all time favourite.  I do not see this often enough. Qaser told me it is usually prepared on a Friday. Mmmm.

I showed Qaiser the heading for the last review here. He picked up that if today was #99, then… Those who have expressed an interest in attending NKP #100 will be contacted shortly.

In the meantime, Dashing White Sergeant – anyone?

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