Valletta – Tuk Tuk – South Indian Food – Chettinad Week, continued…

It is – The February Week – for those still involved in the World of Education, that’ll be Marg and Louise. Six of us are in Malta, reunited for the first time since Madeira 2017. There is a lot of Curry to be had in Malta, unfortunately for Hector, Day 3 provided the first opperchancity to go exploring, the famous Maltese Rabbit Stew and Mediterranean Seafood having been the distractions until Curry-Heute.

Marg and Hector were on the 11.30 ferry from Sliema across to Valletta, five minutes on a boat being quite enough for Hector. As predicted, the heavens opened, we took refuge at Tuk Tuk – South Indian Food (174 Merchants St, Valletta Malta) just after their noon opening time.

Four other diners were already in situ, more would come. Tuk Tuk has twelve tables in a cavern-like room and seats around thirty. Mein Host brought the Menu. Lunch Express (€10.00) may well have been good value, however, Hector was here for one Curry only – Chettinad Lamb (€14.50). Having extolled the joy of this Curry at Banana Leaf (Glasgow) last week and then having subsequently prepared my own Chettinad Masala, the Flavours of South Indian Cuisine are very much to the fore presently in Hector’s World.

Jeera Rice (€3.70) would accompany, we agreed on – Hot – at the time of ordering for the Chettinad. Hector was sorted, Marg was less fortunate. Instead of her customary lunchtime Samosa, Marg decided upon Lamb Keema Dosa (€8.70).

We are not doing Dosa – Marg was informed.

It says until 5pm – responded Marg who would have been having a first.

Mein Host suggested Lamb Naanwich (€7.60). This was accepted. A 0.75l Bottle of Sparkling Water (€3.80) completed the Order.

This would be Hector’s first Maltese Curry since 1990 when Neil and Hector found a Curry House in Qawra/Bugibba. There will be no chance of tracking that venue down again, there are plenty in Sliema/St. Julian’s to amuse even Hector this week.

Lamb Naanwich

What a plateful, the halved Naan was stuffed with Keema, Cheese and Coleslaw, the accompanying Salad and Crisps made this very much a meal.

The inside is cold and the outside is hot – was Marg’s puzzling description.

The Naan is hot but the Keema, Cheese and Coleslaw are cold – she clarified.

I expected more Keema – she added later – I liked the Coleslaw, there was too much Bread for me, but I accept it was called a Naanwich. I am willing to try new things, but I did want a Dosa.

The next two customers that arrived also asked for – Dosa. Why have this on the Menu and not serve it?

The Jeera Rice was decanted on to the cold rectangular plate. This was a sensibly sized portion of Rice, but Chef had been a bit mean with the Cumin Seeds.

Chettinad Lamb

A sliver of something green topped the Curry, nothing I recognised. One should not take Fresh Coriander and Ginger for granted. The Thickness of the Masala took me by surprise, too many venues serve a Chettinad Masala which approaches Shorva, it does not have to be this way, Hector was already impressed. Initially I thought the Meat content was woefully lacking, the Masala had covered the Meat superbly. As each piece of Lamb was arranged over the Rice so I counted, eight was reached, seven pieces were decidedly – Large – and would have to be cut. There was most certainly enough Meat present to justify the price.

The Quantity of Masala was sufficient for the accompanying Rice, there was no needless excess. At last, a Chettinad that was not Soup.

The Spice hit the palate instantly as did the lack of Seasoning. I waited for the anticipated – Chettinad Smokey – Flavours to emerge, they didn’t. Where were the customary Dark Red Chillies?

The texture of the Meat was Excellent, Tender Lamb, suitably Soft and giving off the distinctive Flavour of Lamb. But that was it, the Meat was giving back no more.

As I ate on, I released I was still hoping for more. The cold plate meant that the meal was cooling rapidly. There was no – Jeera Blast – from the remaining Rice. This was no more than a Competent Curry, I have to ask – in what way was this a Chettinad?

Marg decided to order House Chai (€1.60) without Sugar. It was still pouring outside, we were in no hurry to depart, good move. On its arrival, Marg was immediately impressed by the aroma of Cardamom. She enjoyed her Tea, for Hector it resembled a West Coast Milky IPA in terms of appearance. Each to their own.

The Bill

31.20 (£27.37) Malta feels less expensive than it was before they joined the Euro.

The Aftermath

I gave the Calling Card to the Chap who cleared the table, he summoned – the Man in charge. I gave my usual spiel and showed Mein Host the Chettinad Masala I had prepared a few days ago. I have to admit that I did not attain the desired level of – Smokiness – but Marg confirmed there was some, today, none. Mein Host mentioned the term – Fusion – more than once in the ensuing conversation. Once more we have a Curry House which is serving Indian Food as they think the – Westerners – desire it. Hopefully I made it clear that if people choose to dine at an Indian Restaurant, then genuine Indian Cuisine is what they should be served, not some random derivative. Mein Host said that they are planning a – refurbishment – of the Menu in the middle of the year. I suggested that they should have Desi/Apna Dishes available.

In the meantime, if anyone is in München (Deutschland), then surely the finest Lamb Chettinad on the planet is to be found – here.

Tuk Tuk Menu extracts

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Hector prepares a Chettinad Masala, then cooks…twice.

Since the first dry fried Masala experience at the Lighthouse Hotel (Galle, Sri Lanka) back in 2003, Hector has been fascinated by this alternative to the Punjabi Cuisine which prevails in the West of Scotland. Indian Mango (München) sets the standard for Lamb/Fish Chettinad which has not been equalled in all my travels. Aberdeen’s – Rishi’s Indian Aroma – was my first recorded encounter of Chettinad in the UK, but theirs is a very Soupy Curry when it doesn’t have to be.

Having consulted a few sources, Ajwain/Aniseed/Carom Seeds appeared to be a crucial addition to Hector’s spice cupboard. The purchase of these plus Smoked Dried Prawns and Dried Red Chillies were sufficient motivation to have a go.

Chettinad Masala

Approximately a tablespoon of each of the following were combined: Cumin Seeds, Fennel Seeds, Ajwain/Aniseed/Carom Seeds, Star Anise, Coriander Seeds, Pepper Corns, Cloves, Green Cardamom, Curry Leaves, Mustard Seeds, Turmeric, and Onion Seeds. A handful of Dry Red Chillies and four pieces of Cinnamon Bark were also added. The mix was dry fried, with care. Experiments in the past have taught me that one does not go too far else all turns to Carbon in a flash. The resulting smoke is intolerable. The Smoked Prawns were added to the above and everything was ground. Such was the quantity of Masala created, this may be making regular appearances in the months to come.

The Base Masala

An Onion and Tomato Base Sauce was created as has been recorded many times in these pages, the Recipe is here. After a good half hour to create the Masala Mash the Spices were added. I was out of Smoked Paprika – oops – and so added some Chilli Flakes to the Chettinad Masala.  Instinct told me there had to be Lemon Juice.

Hector is never going to make a Soupy Masala, even when adding some Water to stave off any chance of the Masala burning, I saw it reduce surprisingly quickly.  In keeping with British Indian Restaurant Curry, the Mash was blended.

Most of the cooked Chettinad Masala was set aside for another day, time to add the Meat. Here was a cheat, I had a good portion of slow cooked Leg of Lamb left over from a previous meal. Yes, Hector even eats Lamb when it is not in a Curry. The Lamb had been roasted in Garlic and Herbs, the pedigree was there.

Even more Water was added to the mix, again it quickly reduced. One day there will be a Shorva served at Hector’s House, not tonight.

Lamb Chettinad

Visually, this was most pleasing: a Thick Masala and not excessive. The Flavours were recognisably more complex than anything I have ever previously cooked, but where was the – Smokiness? It was there, just, subtle. The Spice Level had been deliberately set to – Medium – as I intend to use this Masala for the foreseeable. The Seasoning was as Hector tends to serve – Khara!

Tasty as the Lamb was, there was no denying that the Meat and Masala were strangers until recently. The Lamb held its own, as is already written, this was Quality Lamb.

Meat, Masala, Rice, perhaps I should have added an Interesting Vegetable. I ate on, wondering how much I should congratulate myself. I was thoroughly enjoying this and was looking forward to next time – Fish Chettinad.

So, the time after next

Perhaps I could dry fry the Chettinad Masala once again, add more Dry Red Chillies and Smoked Dried Prawns? Cococnut Milk may make an appearance. I could resort to buying a packet of Chettinad Mix.

Marg returned from work having had consecutive after-work commitments. Two on the same night, who planned this? She had missed dinner, what could I rustle up?

Vegetable Chettinad

I grabbed some Courgette, Peas and a Carrot, a Stir Fry was underway. Two dessert spoons of the cooked Chettinad Masala and some Water were added. There was leftover Rice. Behold, a Curry!

As is Marg’s norm, the first mouthful was greeted with the usual protest – Spicy!

That is not Spicy – was my emphatic reply.

This was accepted, Marg then went to comment about the Oil, however, this was from the Stir Fry element, not the Masala. Every morsel was eaten, Marg enjoyed her Impromptu Curry, she thought it tasted – Smokey.  

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Glasgow – Banana Leaf – Posh Surroundings, Modest Establishment

Tomorrow night will see Hector create a mass of Chettinad Masala with the view to cooking a Lamb Chettinad initially. With the taste of Chettinad firmly planted in the mind, the autopilot took Hector to Banana Leaf (76B, Old Dumbarton Rd, Glasgow, G3 8RE) this afternoon. In November, Banana Leaf was found to be closed on a Saturday afternoon, Hector ended up across the street at Shah’s Kitchen. Mein Host assured me today that Banana Leaf is open every day except Tuesday around noon, though sometimes it is later when he has to go and shop.

Thanks for coming – was the unusual greeting from Mein Host as I entered, one expects this as a farewell. At 16.00, Hector was the Lone Diner. I took the middle table, the most comfortable of the three. In the overflow room next door all the chairs were still piled high.  One day I’ll get to sit in the big room.

Lamb Chettinadu with inclusive Rice (£7.99) plus a Paratha (£1.50) was the Order. This Curry needs Rice, or does it? One could easily have two Parathas. They may tick all the boxes, however, the Parathas at Banana Leaf are decidedly small, but perfectly formed.

I lost track of time whilst I waited. The wait was not a long one. The Rice serving was Sensible, a plateful, no more. I looked at the Curry, this was far from my normal Punjabi Cuisine.

Lamb Chettinadu

Seven good sized pieces of Meat were arranged on top of the Rice. I took around half of the Blended, Soupy Masala and smothered the Lamb. I had to start by dipping Paratha into the Shorva. Mmmmm – all expectations were satisfied. The South Indian Smoky Flavour came across immediately, success. The Spice and Seasoning were both exactly as I would desire them – testing, Peppery. When I make my own Chettinad Masala, I will not be holding back on the Peppercorns.

The Meat was firm but Tender. The sense of the Meat belonging to the Masala varied. Initially the Lamb appeared to have absorbed the Flavours from the Masala, latterly, this was lost. When Chefs count out the Meat, do they take some from the top of the pot, and some from the bottom?

Next time, I’ll splash out and order a Vegetable accompaniment. This Chettinad was very much just Meat and Masala, but the Masala packed so much Flavour. I should eat this more often. Tomorrow!

The Bill

£9.49    A modest price for a proper feed.

The Aftermath

Did you enjoy? – asked Mein Host.

Yes, always. I’ll need to try the Fish, do you do Fish Chettinadu? (knowing full well it is not on the Menu, why?)

No Prawn and Chicken.

He mentioned the Fish Moilee, I was sold on this, next time.

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Manchester – Chappati Corner – Rice & 3 Curry

Today Hector completed the visits to the three Curry Cafes clustered on this block on Cheetham Hill Road. Chappati Corner (150-152 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester, England M8 8PZ) is very much the smaller of the three and shares an address with Apna Lahori Kebabish next door. Steve had walked out with me, I took him to Lahori Badsha where I had a truly wonderful Curry two days ago. This meant I have seen Zak on three days this week, hopefully he will remember me when I return in March.

Introductions made, I departed and walked the few metres to Chappati Corner, maybe there is no correct spelling of – Chapatti.

The place felt a bit cramped and was not helped by the fact they have essentially the same furniture as is found in the Northern Quarter’sKabana. Ironically, the Kabana across the street from Chappati Corner has the same better suited furniture as found at Al-Faisal Tandoori.

An illuminated sign that I had previously seen from the street proudly displayed the option for – Rice & 3 Curry. I like the deliberate singularity. A handwritten sign behind the counter informed me that Today’s Special was Chicken Biryani. On Wednesdays it’s Anda Kofta, a particular favourite and not available often enough.

The queue of three seemed to fill the room. Rice & 3 Curry (£6.00) permits choices of two Meat and one Vegetable. The kettles were all covered so the serving Chap had to recite what was on offer. There had to be Lamb, I asked for Lamb on-the-bone. Aloo Keema and Aloo Gobi were the next selections. The Chap covered the plate with a generous serving of Rice then proceeded to arrange my choices, this was an impressive quantity of food for six quid. What a plateful! He sprinkled a Soupçon of Fresh Coriander and sliced Green Chillies on top, no forest of Herbs here. I paid.

I managed to squeeze myself on to a seat at the window. The Chap who I had seen yesterday as I waited for Apna Lahori Kebabish to open was out clearing tables. This improved the ambience, marginally. Basic as this Curry Cafe was, it was by far the busiest of the three venues on this side of the street.

Lamb on-the-bone

The first mouthful impressed, this was Curry! The Meat was Soft and was full of Flavour. Masala? I had to look for it. There was enough to cover the Meat, no more, perfect. This could have been served as Karahi Gosht. This was as good as anywhere I have been to in the Northern Quarter, as good as Kabana.

The Spice was there, the added Chillies enhanced this. The remarkable Seasoning was complemented by a slightly burnt taste, this Curry was simply an absolute joy to experience. The two Chaps who sat next to me each had platefuls of this Lamb Curry, they knew.

Aloo Keema

There was no way that this could be as intense as what I had just sampled. With no Masala and no Oil, this would have been better eaten with a Chapatti. Dry, Earthy, I noted with a decent Kick. The Seasoning was well down in this Curry. The Potato content was enough to satisfy the – Aloo Keema – label.

Aloo Gobi

This was a Mash, and a pretty bland one at that. One assumes that this was how it was intended. Vegetables as part of any Curry are always a bonus. I forgave the two large pieces of Red Capsicum that had somehow sneaked into the Aloo Gobi.

The diversity on this plate was testimony to that which sums up Manchester Curry – Rice and 3.

I never fail to be amazed at the Quality of Curry served in such modest venues. This has been quite a week, my very favourite – Dera – to kick things off on arrival, then three new to Curry-Heute – Curry Cafes, each serving quite distinct Curry.

The Aftermath

I was about to simply leave the Calling Card on the table, the Chaps serving were always busy. As I finished I spotted a gap. I had seen possibly four different people taking turns to serve, this Chap had the air of being Mein Host. On accepting the Calling Card he gave me permission to photograph the various Dishes, the covers were off simultaneously, something I bet does not happen often at Chappati Corner.

I went back to Lahori Badsha to collect Steve. He had just finished and was well impressed by their Lamb Curry. Knowing that it’s only an extra ten minute walk from Ancoats, I trust he will return.

It was at the end of last year when Rizwan told me about the second Kabana. Google Maps have it as open on a Saturday which the original premises are not. My plan this week was therefore to finally have a Saturday Kabana Curry. I went across to check.

The Chap on the tables told me – Sunday. Rizwan later confirmed this by text. I could have been here today had I known this.

Three days ago I wrote about the five Curry Houses in this cluster on Cheetham Hill Road. It appears that the nearby Alif Grill (105 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester, England M8 8PY) also serves Curry, and despite its name – Kebabish Grill & Steakhouse (170-172 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester, England M8 8LQ) which is a block further north does so too. That makes eight venues that I know of. Cheetham Hill, Manchester’s #2 Curry Mile, and way better than #1, Hector has not been down to Rusholme for years and after this week’s experiences, is unlikely to do so.

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Manchester – delhi2go – Hector, Patron of the Arts, is summoned

I have been trying to behave this week. Only on Wednesday have I succumbed to a late night feast at delhi2go (119 Oldham St., Manchester M4 1LN England). Howard left the Crown and Kettle to fetch a Takeaway for himself and Tracey. He was recognised as being a friend of Hector at delhi2go. He returned to the Crown and Kettle to inform me that one of the staff had asked – if Hector was in the vicinity. I guessed this would be Mian, Mein Host, whom I had missed on Wednesday. Howard said he desired to see me but warned the he might out doing deliveries.

I dragged myself the short distance down Oldham Street to delhi2go, Mohamed was serving, I said I had been summoned, he looked puzzled. Mian appeared and was very pleased to see me. Hector rated a hug. Unfortunately we didn’t get much of a chance to talk, he was off out again. I used the valuable moments to tell him that which I desired to regarding my visit two weeks ago. Now he knows, and Mohamed has it sorted.

The Chap sitting minding his own business was caught apparently minding his own business, or maybe he wasn’t.

So, Hector finds himself in a Curry House. A second, or even third Curry in one day is not unknown in these pages. What the hell, Lamb Chops (£5.50) are great value here. I have recently seen over £12.00 being charged for five Lamb Chops.

There are Four Chops

I was convinced there five Chops when I took the photo, there were only four bones at the end. The Downsman (Crawley) and Akbar’s (Glasgow) serve the best Lamb Chops I have ever encountered, these were not far behind. Cremated – as I had asked, well marinaded, Spicy, Succulent, full of Flavour. I thoroughly approve of the new Meat supplier at delhi2go.

The Aftermath

The Chap in the photo brought a piece of card to the table. To quote one of my favourite Captain Picard lines – Oh, it’s me.

The Lamb Chops suddenly cost more than I had envisaged.

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Manchester – Apna Lahori Kebabish – Take Me Home, Country Bone

It is day three of Hector’s Curry extravaganza on Cheetham Hill Rd. Arriving at Apna Lahori Kebabish (150-152 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester, England M8 8PZ) moments before noon, the shutters were only half open. A Chap from Chappati Corner next door battered on the shutter, open sesame, Hector was in.

Are you open?– was a somewhat rhetorical question.

I was informed by the only Chap seemingly on the premises that there were no staff, I would have to wait ten to fifteen minutes. I took a seat – I’ll wait.

There was plenty of time to take in the surroundings. Six booths each sat about six people, seven at a squeeze. As is the norm in Curry Cafes, the décor was simple.

More staff arrived, the original Chap was busy cleaning the steel trays which would house the prepared Curry. At 12.20 a Chap I hadn’t spotted brought the Menu. For the sake of consistency and comparison, it had to be Punjabi Gosht (£6.49). The Waiter confirmed that this would be on-the-bone. A Naan (£0.75) would accompany.

Just one? Yes.

I was left to wonder why the same Dish served Boneless was only £6.00. More Meat, a smaller price? That the Fish Curry Masala was also £6.00 impressed, too many venues charge a shocking amount for Fish. How can a Fish Curry be more expensive than Meat?

Yet another Chap brought a jug of water and a Modest Salad with Sauces. The latter looked more appropriate for Burgers which are also served here.

Punjabi Gosht

The Masala was closer to Shorva than one would expect, each to their own interpretation. The Topping was Minimal, just a sprinkling of Fresh Coriander. In the Northern Quarter once can help oneself to Coriander, Ginger and Chillies, not here then.

The Naan again did not look like the standard Naan cooked in a Tandoor. The holes suggested that this had been cooked on a Tawa, the Bread had not risen, no puffiness, no burnt bits. This Bread felt closer to a Pitta than a Naan, not the best.

I counted the Meat, well into double figures. Offal, came to mind, the fatty sinews had been left attached to quite a few pieces. I could have used the provided knife and fork to remove these, I ate with the spoon. The first dip of Bread revealed a very Powerful Flavour, and not one of this era. This Masala took me right back to the 1960s, one does not encounter this too often. The Spice Level was certainly adequate, the Seasoning was at the – Brave – end of the spectrum, this I liked, a lot. The Meat was very Soft, this Curry looked nothing like my usual Karahi Gosht, this was an old fashioned Lamb Curry, what we grew up with. What the…? A piece of Meat shocked the palate, Kidney. How did that get in there? Was this deliberate or an oversight.? Either way, this was a first. I studied the fatty connectors, the back side of the ribs had quite a bit of this. Some looked tubular, Offal?

Towards the base of the karahi, the Masala was decidedly Thicker, then I realised this was actually Meat Pulp and very rich in Flavour it was too. A small piece of Cinnamon Bark must have added to this.   The Bone count reached three plus a fragment.  The presence of Bones is always associated with more Homely Flavours, Desi.

The Bread disappointed, this Curry would have been much better eaten with Rice which I did not see on the Menu. Quirkiness and Shorva apart, this was a memorable Curry, the Flavours were intense, I would certainly have this again.

Whilst I ate, the prepared Curry had been set out. Why put this out so late? They have missed many potential lunchtime customers.

The Bill

£7.25 One cannot complain about the price.

The Aftermath

I introduced myself in the normal manner. The Chap who was clearly in charge instantly warmed to my presence. He smiled when I described the Curry as taking me back in time. He summoned the rest of the staff for a photo.

You are very welcome to come – were his parting words.

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Manchester – Lahori Badsha – Cheetham Hill, Manchester’s Curry Mile #2?

The mission for the rest of this Manchester Trip was declared yesterday on the walk up Cheetham Hill Road, to visit the venues which make up this cluster of five Curry Houses which operate within metres of each other, quite a cluster. Five? I failed to spot Bukhara yesterday as it was far too big, crazy. I suspect it is part of a chain and therefore there’s no rush. Meanwhile, Lahori Badsha (140 Cheetham Hill Rd, Manchester, England M8 8PZ) was the first venue encountered yesterday, the young Chap behind the counter was welcoming, I said I would be back.

Arriving at 14.15 I found one Diner finishing his lunch. The same Chap behind the counter raised his eyebrows in acknowledgement as I took a seat well away from the door. Another Chap brought the Menu. Daily Special, Lunch Offers, Curry Of The DayKarahi is only sold by the Kilo.  Lamb Chops, £5.50 for five.  Where to begin?

I decided upon Aloo Gosht (£4.99), the Menu made no mention of  Rice, the Lunch Offers included two Roti, so this appeared to be the way. Chap #2 came to take the Order, Aloo Gosht was not available, he offered Keema. Whilst I have no problems with Keema, if I was going to judge this venue, then a Masala had to be obtained. When I asked what was available, he sought Chap #1 who rhymed off Lamb Curry, ChickenLamb Curry (£6.50) it would be, plus a Chapatti (£0.50).

*

Lahori Badsha has four long tables (which could be split) each seating eight. This is another Curry Cafe where one always hopes to find – Simple – and sometimes – Outstanding – Fayre. Chap #2 brought a glass and plate followed by a Jug of Water. A Salad and Raita came next, I started to nibble. The wait for the Mains was not long.

The Roti was of the – Wholemeal – variety. Large, it was Hot, Soft and took quite a time to show signs of crisping. No way would I finish this.

Lamb Curry

The peripheral Oil immediately caught the eye, was this a Shorva? Buried beneath the Toppings of Fresh Coriander, Ginger Strips and copious slices of Green Chillies, was a very impressive Thick Masala. Indeed, it looked remarkably similar to that presented last night at Dera, it may well have been Tomato-based.

I counted the Meat into double figures, this Lamb Curry was on-the-bone. The Pedigree was staring me in the face.

The Curry was Hot, the Flavours were realised in an instant, the Meat was delightfully Soft but still far from Pulp. Lahori Badsha, another Curry-Heute find, a purveyor of Worthy Curry.

I had too close an encounter with the largest Black Cardamom ever seen. Cloves became prominent when I tackled a piece of Meat on-the-bone. The Meat and Peppery Masala belonged together, not the too often encountered – quick match.

Chap #2 brought another Roti and arranged it under the first. I had to ask him to take it away. Whilst it would have been tempting to start on another Hot, Fresh Roti, this would have been a total waste. Hopefully it went to a good stomach.

I was approaching the end, three Bones was the count, I had eaten enough Lamb for today. Hopefully somewhere will have Fish waiting for me this week. I did see the Fish on display and wondered how it was served. The TV was on the wall behind me, the walls were otherwise bare. Just what is available here and when?

The Bill

£7.00     50p for a Roti, £1.00 for a Naan. Is anyone in Aberdeen reading this?

The Aftermath

I gave the Calling Card to Chap #1 who I deduced was Mein Host. This was Zak.

You didn’t eat very much – Zak remarked – most people can do two Chapattis.

On asking if I could take some photos, he arranged a whole Chicken on a plate. They are evidently proud of their Chicken. Despite eschewing Chicken Curry, Chicken served in this manner is more akin to Nando’s which of course Hector is very partial to.

Zak offered to provide an array of their Specials on my next visit. I may well take him up on this. Hector will next be back in Manchester in the middle of March.

I noted the time and walked back to Ancoats Travelodge, thirteen minutes at Hector’s pace.

Now for a Beer Festival.

The Menu

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Manchester – delhi20go – A Late Night Snack

After an evening of ale-quaffing at the Manchester Beer Festival, Hector, John and Mags headed to delhi2go (119 Oldham St., Manchester M4 1LN England). Mags was intent on having a Takeaway, not a bad decision given that it was freezing indoors. This would be John’s first visit so he let me order his Curry.

There was no sign of Mian or Chef Shahid, a pity, because Hector was intent on showing them the review of my last visit at the start of this month when, the Meat was so tough, there was very little enjoyment of the meal. The Chap serving tonight still appeared to recognise me, how he knew me would be discovered later.

I ordered a safe Classic Lamb Apna Style (£8.30) and two Chapattis (£80p), John paid the required £9.90. Mags ordered her usual Aloo Gosht (not on the Menu) and a Paratha (£1.70).

Hector was determined not to eat Meat on this occasion. In the past the Bombay Aloo (£6.00) has impressed. I made a request for Aloo Gobi, which is not on the Menu. I was asked if I would like my Potato and Cauliflower with other Vegetables. I agreed to this. Vegetable Balti (£7.20) is as close a Menu description for what I had then ordered.

Can I have it Apna style? – I enquired, just to make sure. A Paratha would accompany.

John stated what needed said – It’s cold in here. It was chilly this evening, gosh there was even snow on top of some cars, though not on the road. Cancel all flights!

Mags stood beside us as we waited for the Order. Did I mention it was f-n freezing here? That the sit in food arrived first did not amuse Mags. The photo I have of the huge Takeaway was not for me to worry about, thankfully ours was soon on top.

John would eat his meal faster than Hector:

Classic Lamb Apna Style

I have had this Curry a few times before, which is why it was recommended. The Toppings were a sniff of Fresh Coriander and Ginger Strips and a wealth of sliced large Green Chillies. This many Chillies – Yay!

I did spot two tiny pieces of Green Pepper that would never have been tolerated in a Hector Curry. John, who devours Chapattis, made quick work of his Lamb in a Thick Masala.

Capsicum aside, this was the Quality of Curry I hoped John would be served. They do it well here, I know, I’ve been here oft. Thick Masala, and hopefully Tender Meat… unlike earlier this month.

John was finished before Hector had hardly started, he gave a few words before he headed off:

It was properly balanced and tasty. Bread was perfect and price was right.

I have seen John devour four Chapattis to accompany the equivalent Curry. The Chapattis here are substantial. QED.

*

*

Vegetable Balti

No Ginger Strips, but plenty of sliced large Green Chillies and some Fresh Coriander topped this Vegetable Curry. Potatoes, Cauliflower, Carrots and Peas were shrouded in a Thick Masala rich in Tomato seeds. The Seasoning was OK, however, the Chillies put the Spice Level into orbit. There was a slight Sweetness emanating from the Carrots.

The Paratha initially glistened, but the butter soaked in leaving a somewhat dull Bread. The Paratha was Soft but not as Flaky as one has come to expect. This was not up to the usual delhi2go standard.

As I ate on so I became aware of how much Tomato had been cooked in. The Seasoning towards the base of the karahi appeared to be less. Still, this Curry suited my needs, a break from Lamb was required.

I asked Mags to text some words regarding her Aloo Gosht:

Another excellent Aloo Gosht, made off menu. Spicing just right with a sprinkle of chillies for that extra bite. Yum!! I’ll be back.

The Aftermath

I was determined to have my say about the Quality of the Lamb served on my last visit. The Chap serving informed me that they have since changed their Meat supplier and now spend £4.00 per kilo more for their Lamb. I suggested he ask Rizwan at Kabana from where he sources his excellent Lamb. He was aware of my reviews on Curry-Heute. At this point it dawned on me that if this Chap knew about the operating of delhi2go, and reads Curry-Heute, he was not just a stand-in.

Are you the owner? – I asked, and so Hector met Mohamed.

He confirmed that it was Mian’s day off and that Chef Shahid is on holiday.

Are you a Chef? – I asked, apparently so. Hopefully there will be no return to January 2018 when they lost their main Chef. Mohamed had to train a replacement. I suggested that he consider serving Lamb on-the-bone. This was already in Mohamed’s plans. He showed me the kettles at the counter where prepared Curry will be served a la Northern Quarter. It will be good to have a further lunchtime option, particularly on Saturdays. Meanwhile, Hector is exploring Cheetham Hill.

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Manchester – Dera – Have a Good Year!

It is the week of the Manchester Beer Festival. The majority of – The Company – arrive tomorrow in time for the late afternoon opening, Hector is down a day early. I wonder why?

Dera (433 Cheetham Hill Rd, Manchester, M8 OPF) takes a bit of effort to get to unless one throws money at a Taxi, even a single on Bus 135 from Piccadilly costs £3.00. Today I decided to walk from the Northern Quarter up Cheetham Hill to Dera. Apart from needing the exercise, I wanted to establish just how many more Curry Houses there were along the way. I have spotted some previously, today I recorded a cluster of four some five to ten minutes from Victoria Station, so not so far out then.

Somehow I missed Bukhara Manchester perhaps being distracted by – the otherKabana which apparently is open on Saturdays. (Update – it isn’t) Across from Kabana are Chappati Corner, Apna Lahori Kebabish and Lahori Badsha, so four new Punjabi Curry Cafes for Hector to investigate. That’s Lunch sorted for this Trip.

I arrived at Dera at 16.50 ten minutes before the 17.00 opening time, so it did not take forty minutes as Google Maps suggested. Dera was in darkness, gone are the days of serving Breakfast and Lunch. A Chap opened up just on 17.00 and turned on the exterior lights but not so many inside. I followed him in, lighting the Tandoors was his first priority. I was invited to take a seat in the side room, the Menu was brought, ah, a New Menu!

Dining alone at Dera has always presented a problem, the Karahi Dishes were sold by the Kilo, even Hector could not cope with this. Latterly they took this on board, the half kilo became possible. The New Menu is more flexible, Karahi is now available by the half kilo with Boneless costing more than on-the-bone, as it logically should. I had a choice of two: Lamb Karahi (£12.95) or Zaitoon Lamb Karahi (£13.95). Zaitoon? I would ask.

With the majority of Dera still in semi-darkness, the Chap came over to serve. On asking the difference between the two versions he got stuck on telling me – Boneless. Eventually I extracted – Olive – from him. It took three attempts to communicate Zaitoon Lamb Karahi on-the-bone with a Naan (£1.25) to accompany. Who is not going to have a Naan at this price? (A Roti is £0.85.)

Water was brought, I remember the days when they used to try and charge for this.

Mein Host arrived as did the next customer, a young Polish girl. She had no idea what she wanted, apart from Beef which is not served at Dera. She chose some sort of Lamb Curry (£7.95), I note Lamb is charged at the same price as Chicken.

Mein Host brought the Curry, there was an instant – Wow! Look at this spread.

Zaitoon Lamb Karahi

Sliced Green Olives were as prominent as the sheer size of the serving. Ginger Strips were there too. I counted more than twenty decent sized pieces of Meat with only two bones, both Sucky Bones. There was surprisingly little Oil visible, perhaps it had skilfully been dabbed off. The Masala looked so inviting, this Masala oozed Quality.

The Naan was served in two pieces, a good size, way more Bread than I would manage. The priority would be the Karahi.

There are only a handful of venues where one could identify the Flavours on a blind tasting, Dera is such a place. So recognisable, so consistent, such is the Dera Masala, magnificent. The Olives added another dimension, this may well be only the third time I have had Olives in Curry. The first was at Meghna, (now Sampan, Blairgowrie) and more recently at Yadgar (Glasgow). Olives work, a surprisingly – Interesting Vegetable.

Around the halfway point I still had what would constitute a decent portion, the appetite was there, I knew I would manage this. OK, the karahi itself was flat, but I did find myself once again questioning the efficacy of the half kilo served at Glasgow’s Namak Mandi in a standard karahi. So much Meat, and every piece was a joy to eat, so much for avoiding a Lamb overdose. This Lamb was cooked to perfection, there was enough Masala to keep scooping up with the delightfully Light and Fluffy Naan. That the Naan was Plain was deliberate The Meat I ate with a fork, the large spoon was discarded. Large spoon? With whom was I sharing?

Mein Host came over to check on my progress:

Do you need anything?

This is wonderful – was my immediate reply. What more could I ask for?

Having had a minimal lunch and no Starter, finishing this half kilo proved to be a remarkably simple – task – and a decidedly pleasant one. Behold the empty karahi.

The Bill

£15.20   A mass of Curry and sensibly priced Bread.

The Aftermath

I waited whilst a customer had his Takeaway assembled before engaging Mein Host. He had recognised me and had been discussing my presence with his colleague and that today’s meal would be written up. He said something along the lines of:

He likes authentic Curry – to his colleague.

Have a good year – was his parting comment.

It looks as though I shall be making the effort to go up Cheetham Hill more regularly, but will I get up as far as Dera? Of course!

As I sat down very late this evening to write this post at the Ancoats Travelodge, the Huawei pinged, it was Curryspondent Bill. Hector is closer to securing an invite to do a shift in the kitchen of a Curry House. #Lessons to be learned.

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Glasgow – Yadgar Kebab House – The Helensburgh Connection, continued…

After Curry, Chez Steve, in Helensburgh last night, the diary showed that Alan and Tracy were due to join Marg and Hector for Curry in Glasgow this evening. Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) was the chosen venue, Alan and Tracy have not been since Yadgar #100, we were collectively overdue a return. As always, a text was sent to Mein Host midweek to arrange – The Fayre.

Shkoor, Dear Chap

Can I arrange for four of us to dine this Saturday (19th) @19.30. There is a clear demand for baked Scottish Haddock to start. Alan and I wish to share a kilo of Goshat Karahi on-the-bone. Tracy asks for a portion of Chicken Tikka Karahi (don’t shoot the messenger). I shall add Marg’s choice later if she tells me.

Marg subsequently added a portion of Boneless Goshat Karahi despite the fact that she knows on-the-bone is much more full of Flavour.

At our 18.00 rendezvous Tracy did not sound too enthusiastic about the Fish. On our arrival at Yadgar we added one portion of Vegetable Pakora.

A table for four had been set aside, no – Reserved – signs are used at Yadgar, if a table already has plates and cutlery in situ, one knows.

There was the usual warm greeting from Shkoor who appeared to be in a playful mood tonight.

All’s well that ends well – he declared. We had to ask for an interpretation. Hector’s travels are well known, Naveed (get well soon) sees my activities on a certain Social Medium, he can track my movements. Hector’s third visit to Manchester this month/year is looming, favourite venues will be revisited, and who knows where else?

Shkoor arranged the Drinks, two Mango Rubicon, two Cokes. Chapattis were confirmed as the Bread accompaniment. There is a new young Waiter resplendent in a t-shirt with the Yadgar logo. I never got close enough to see if this featured the Minar-e Pakistan in Lahore, or was new Yadgar Kebab House branded clothing. (How much is an XL?)

A pile of Poppadoms and a bowl of Spiced Onions were first to arrive followed moments later by two Dips: the temperature Hot Red Sauce and some Raita. Hector watched his fellow diners tear in. Patience, there’s more to come, much more, no need to fill up on Poppadoms.

When the Salad arrived it was time for Hector to start. Green and Black Olives were accompanied by Paneer, these sat on a bed of Rocket and Spinach Leaves. Alan is not into Olives, Marg admitted that pre-Hector, she wasn’t either. More for the rest of us. The Rocket was left, who likes Rocket?

The Vegetable Pakora was next, around eight pieces, Hector limited the intake to two, one would be left. Why? With the Salad, Spiced Onions and the Dips, the – Feast – was already shaping up.

Shkoor brought the platter of Fish. Haddock – he announced, which puzzled. I could see two pieces of Fish which I would not otherwise have identified and three pieces of Salmon.

The Haddock was not the Spice encrusted presentation we had hoped for, these were more Lightly spiced and were a devil to separate from the foil. We each had a Soupçon, the photo appears to have enlarged them. The Piece of Salmon nearest Alan and Tracy turned out to be significantly different from the two nearest Hector. The latter had much more of a Lemon infusion. Marg suggested we set one aside to take away. I agreed, then took half, it was too good not to eat now.

Tracy appeared to warm to the Fish and did her best to secure the remaining morsels, and the Spiced Onions… Alan reminded her that there was much more to come. As Shkoor passed on his way back from serving others in the very full Restaurant, I asked if that was all. We could contentedly leave now.

The Takeaway queue at times spilled into the space adjacent to where we sat. A Saturday night Takeaway from Yadgar must be popular. It was rare for us to be here at this time. As always I was amused by what the other customers ordered. Obviously, for Hector, Curry is all. However, Kebabs and Wraps were spotted being presented to a table of taxi drivers who I recognised. Behind me was a truly obnoxious git. Unless he was actually best friends with the new Waiter then his manner was totally inexcusable. I heard him but never saw him. Hopefully I never shall.

There was a suitable break between the Starters and the main Event, thankfully.

Goshat Karahi

Lamb chops! I could see a mountain of Lamb Chops. These were not the scrawny ones that some venues serve and charge a fortune for. Nor was this Goshat Karahi simply Tandoori Chops with a Masala chucked on at the end. Sucky Bones were there too, so some Leg of Lamb also. This Lamb had been cooked with thought, tenderness, care, and slowly.

The topping of Fresh Coriander Leaves was welcomed, I had to study – the other green bits – closely. Sliced Green Chillies, phew. I knew before I started that I would never eat half of this, but tonight we didn’t have to. Marg was driving, the car was outside.

I took four Chops to get things underway, the Classic Yadgar Flavour hit the palate immediately, but was this in fact their standard Goshat Karahi? The Masala had the same Thick consistency, it may have been slightly Paler. Photos will prove nothing here. Black Pepper was prominent in the Masala that shrouded the Chops. I consulted Alan, he too had spotted this and was finding the Karahi to be – Peppery.

Halfway between the traditional Goshat Karahi and a Namkeen Karahi – is what I noted. My first Lamb Chop was approaching – Cold. Would I have to send this back? I checked with Alan, he was not experiencing the same thing. I continued, all was well.
The Spice was no more than Moderate, it doesn’t have to be silly. The Seasoning was spot on – Khara! (There is an unfortunate linguistic connection between – Yadgar – and – Khara. We’ll see if anyone works this out.)

Chef Arshad acknowledged us when he popped out from the kitchen. He likes to take his bow. I also like to think that he knows who he is cooking for.

Aloo Gobi

No sooner had we been served our Mains when Shkoor appeared with a plate laden with Potato and Cauliflower in another Yadgar-thick Masala.

My Favourite – I exclaimed as he found place for it on the table. No longer was I eating just a mass of Meat and Masala. The added diversity that Vegetables bring to a meal is always appreciated, yet as I wrote in Manchester last week at Spice Lounge re their Veg Deshi BhunaI left a Soupçon, frankly, I was bored at the end. Not tonight, the combination of everything was immensely satisfying, the boxes were ticked – Fish – Vegetables – a Superb Goshat Karahi with a difference, and – Lamb Chops!

The plate of discarded Bones was filling, I estimated I had eaten about Six Lamb Chops plus whatever was attached to the occasional Sucky Bone. I could see around six chops left. Alan had reached his limit, the remainder could go back to Helensburgh.

On seeing that we had stopped, Shkoor was across, he may never have seen us admit defeat this early.

I have a strategy – I informed him. No way was this going to waste.

Alan’s verdict:

Very tasty very peppery, a good combination, enjoyed it.

The drinks bill will be quite cheap.

The latter is a comparative reference to a night’s dining at Akbar’s.

Now for – The Ladies’ Curry

Goshat Karahi – Boneless

As I always order the Kilo at Yadgar which arrives in a large karahi, a plateful can make less of an impact. However, look at the Quantity, no way was Marg going to manage all of this. It was at this point the aforementioned strategy was conceived. The Masala looked identical to what Alan and I were having, it wasn’t. Marg plonked a piece of Meat on my plate. Yes the Lady who tends to eat my Lamb Chops was giving me more Meat. The Boneless version was Spicier than the on-the-bone version. Marg may often comment about her food being – too Spicy – but she is well used to this. Her enjoyment was not impaired.  Throughout, Marg remarked on how much she was enjoying her Curry. In the last twenty years, Marg has travelled the World with Hector, she too has seen, sampled, and enjoyed the very best of Curry. She knows how good the Curry is at Yadgar.

Marg strategically ate around half of her portion. This and the leftover Aloo Gobi were going back to Hector’s House.

Marg has previously enjoyed Kashmiri Tea at Yadgar. Having mentioned it, I suggested that she order this sooner rather than later, it has to be – cooked.

Marg’s comments for this evening:

I loved the Starters, I tried not to over indulge.

Re her Main Course – I thoroughly enjoyed it, thought it was great, very tender meat, worked well with a Chapatti.

The Chapattis felt incidental tonight, well for me anyway. Tracy asked – How do they get them so round? Years of practice – was Marg’s reply. I probably had less than half of a Chapatti, it was never more than a tool with which to lift the Lamb Chops. Why fill up on Bread? Half a Chapatti was left of the four presented, so the others ate more than I did.

Who ate all the….

Chicken Tikka Karahi

Chicken Tikka Karahi has only made a Curry-Heute appearance once before at Yadgar Visit #100. Tracy’s choice was inspired by her particular enjoyment of the Chicken Tikka Karahi at Yadgar’s Glasgow contemporary venue – Karahi Palace. Visit #100 to Karahi Palace will be soon, three have asked to accompany me so far.

The Chicken Tikka was shrouded in the classic Yadgar Minimal Masala, but the Redness was something different. Red? The Red Oil was already collecting around the periphery in the moments after its arrival. As with Marg’s portion, there was a mass of Meat here.

When Hector eats, his conversation is minimal. Others chatted, concentration. When I stopped I was surprised to see that Tracy had eaten the vast majority of her Curry, I don’t know how she managed this. There was just enough left over to make packing it justifiable.

Tracy’s verdict:
It was spicy, very tomatoey, a lot of meat, not enough sauce.

I’m not quite sure about the balance between the positive and negative here. Tracy’s last Yadgar Curry had even  less Masala.

Kashmiri Tea

We did have to wait for this during which time we heard Master Obnoxious. Two cups of Pink, Milky, Hot Tea arrived. Hector was never going to touch this, Alan and Tracy each took a spoonful. Far too Sweet.

Cardamom helps digestion – Marg reminded us, there were Nuts in there too. Marg likes – Sweet.  She drank both cups.

Regular Readers will know that Hector must surely dine at Yadgar at a Special Rate. I waited in the Takeaway queue until I could attract Shkoor’s attention.

Do you have a number? – I asked.

He shrugged his shoulders – The usual.

The Bill

£60.00 We paid appreciably more, the honourable thing to do. This works.

The Aftermath

How do you cope with this man’s travelling? – Shkoor asked Marg. Earlier he had made a comment about me being retired over a year now. Try three – I reminded him. Marg will get her turn, but no time soon.

As we made our way out I studied the dishes on display. The Lamb Biryani looked very interesting. I should return to my days of just dropping by at Yadgar and enjoy the Daily Specials, there’s always something to enjoy. Hector may then avoid the – Lamb overdose, as if.

You cannot leave without trying this – said Shkoor with reference to a tray which may well have just appeared from the kitchen. A plastic container was filled – Lamb Pilao.

Behold, another meal to enjoy at home.

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