Glasgow – Banana Leaf – The Fifth Visit

Posted on February 16, 2019 by Hector

On the last visit I said I would be back for the Fish Moilee (£7.99). The Prawn Kozhumbu (£7.99) is one for the future. Arriving at 15.00, Banana Leaf was empty. Chef was working away at the rear of the kitchen, greetings were exchanged. It was another Chap who took the Order. The price includes the choice of Rice, two Chapattis or a Paratha. Given the – Soupy Curry – served at Banana Leaf, Rice is mandatory. Given the Quality of the Paratha (£1.50) served here, one simply just has to have one. I asked for Tap Water, a Jug was duly provided.

The portion of Rice matched that which Marg and Hector shared midweek at Green Gates (Renfrew). This was a large portion for one person. The Parathas are on the small side, but for once a whole one can be eaten, even when accompanied by all this Rice. The Parathas are Wonderful at Banana Leaf, so Soft, Flaky, the Spiral, Light in colour and served – Whole! So tasty, abundant Ghee.

Fish Moilee

Six rectangular pieces of White Fish were decanted, the Quantity matched the realistic price being charged. The Masala was Creamy and had a highly visible Coconut content. Fortunately any Sweetness from the Coconut was masked by the hoped for – South Indian – Smoky Flavour. This was why Hector was here, the appetite for this cannot be sated presently.  For the record, this Curry was way more than being just a Spicy Korma.

The Texture of the Fish was Perfect, far from the – rubbery – experience at Maharaja (Sliema) last week. Malta was a week ago, where next? With Fish Curry, one expects a powerful Flavour from the Fish itself, this was not the case here. The Fish just managed to give enough to avoid its presence being regarded as arbitrary. This Curry was all about the Masala. The Paratha and the Masala were made for each other, yet Hector still considers the Rice to be necessary. Perhaps one day a two Paratha option will be risked – Splash!

The Bill

£9.50 Not £9.49 then?

The Aftermath

There was no discourse with – the other Chap, he had never seen me before.

However, today is an historic day, the Fifth Visit, and so Banana Leaf is added to Glasgow’s Top Rated and therefore is also added to Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses.

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Hector cooks Tandoori-style Chicken

Posted on February 14, 2019 by Hector

Chicken Tikka tell me what’s wrong…

Hector has been watching Parveen’s Indian Kitchen for the last few weeks, useful lessons have been learned. Watch this space for future Blogs on an attempt to make Paratha, and even Butter Chicken which remains Marg’s favourite Curry.

Tandoori, Tikka what’s the difference? Apparently it is simply down to whether the Meat has been skewered or not, the latter being regarded as Tikka. Hector has a fundamental problem, no Tandoor. The Kaiserhoff Gas Hob Tandoor purchased a few years ago has long since been binned. It steamed the Meat and did not create the recognisable Burnt Tandoori Flavours. According to Parveen, a hot oven can create worthy results.

Chicken Thighs have proven to be the best cut of this bird which Hector has always maintained cannot be marinaded. Yesterday, the following were combined to create the required marinade:

200ml Greek Yoghurt

6 cloves of Garlic, grated

3 tsp Tandoori Powder

1 tsp Chilli Flakes

2 tsp Salt

Lemon Juice

The Chicken Thighs were scored, mixed in, then left overnight in the fridge. No Red Food Dye was used, it’s disgusting.

The oven was preheated to 240ºC, the hottest the oven has ever been set to in Hector’s House. Two baking trays were oiled to prevent sticking. Twenty minutes was the given cooking time, in went the Chicken Thighs smothered in the marinade.

Parveen also demonstrated the creation of an Indian Coleslaw. Once upon a time, Marg was let loose in the kitchen and produced what – she called Coleslaw.

That’s not Coleslaw I told her, that chopped Carrots and Cabbage in Mayonnaise. Everything was chunkier than everything else. Never again, until today. Roughly cut Cabbage and Red Onion were prepared then added to a mix of the following:

Half a small bowl of Mayonnaise, plus half of Greek Yoghurt

1 tsp Salt

1 tsp Pepper

1 tsp Turmeric

1 tsp Nigella Seeds

Once the Cabbage and Onions were stirred in, 2 tsp Tamarind was mixed in, only then was the shredded Carrot added. The – Coleslaw – looked too – Dry. Instinct suggested Vinegar was required, in went some Salad Cream, much better.

ASDA’s Tomato and Garlic Flatbread has been enjoyed recently, Marg had yet to experience it. The Flatbread went into the very hot oven for the final six minutes.

Tandoori Chicken

This had the hoped for burnt extremities and appeared to be cooked through. Fresh Coriander was added as a Garnish.

The first mouthful was a revelation – Wow! This was Tandoori Chicken, as good as anything Hector has encountered. The Flavours were up to expectations, the Seasoning clearly helped, the Lemon Juice had worked its magic.  To what extent the Marinade was true or peripheral is still up for discussion.  Marg took two Chicken Thighs and was well impressed, so much so that having declared she had finished, she took a piece of the remaining Thigh, then another, and another. Success.

Next time I may skewer the Meat, despite oiling the baking tray as instructed, there was a too sticky residue. I will also up the Lemon Juice, I don’t think one can have too much.

The Flatbread remained tasty and soft and was pretty much devoured, another success.

The Coleslaw was decidedly different from anything previously encountered wearing that moniker. It was OK, next time I would properly shred the Vegetables as in American-style Coleslaw.

According to Parveen’s TV programme, Tandoori Chicken is the required Meat for Butter Chicken, this will be appearing soon.

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Renfrew – Green Gates – A Name from The Past

Posted on February 13, 2019 by Hector

It’s that time of year when every Chap has to take his Chapatti out for a romantic dinner. Cheaper than flowers, and two people get to enjoy. Marg has another commitment tomorrow and so Hector gets to save a few bob by being out a day early.

Green Gates (65 Ferry Rd, Renfrew PA4 8SH) was the chosen venue for this – Special Curry. Green Gates! The namesake of the venue on Gibson Street (Glasgow) where Hector had his first Restaurant Curry @1966-7, a Lamb Vindaloo, of course. Marg was here with – The Carnoustie Two – last year whilst Hector was abroad, someone had done their research, Dr. Alasdair. The online Menu showed Lamb Shank (£14.80) in the – Special Menu – section. When accompanied by a decent Masala it can be excellent, when served in a Shorva, forget it. Well, that’s how Hector sees it.

Green Gates is two miles from Hector’s House as the crow flies, Hector is not a crow. However, when the new bridge is built across the Clyde, Yoker/Clydebank will be minutes from Renfrew/Braehead. Meanwhile, the foot ferry plods on. Green Gates, as the address confirms, is seconds from the terminal.

Stirling is where Green Gates began, there is quite a pedigree. The two main chaps worked at Mother India, the Restaurant, then Chain, which revolutionised Curry in the West of Scotland. Renfrew is the second Green Gates outlet in Scotland.

Hector and Marg were out – to dine – this evening – and to sample Indian Cuisine rather than Hector’s customary – Punjabi. We arrived sometime after 20.00, a few diners were in situ. We were greeted by Mein Host who initially offered us a small table in the midst of les autres. Hector held out for a larger table, the last table before the access to the rear dining area. This is quite a sizeable premises, one wonders if they will be full tomorrow evening?

The Main Menu and the Special Menu were provided, the Drinks Menu was already on the table. A Large Bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.25) was what Hector had in mind. A Metal Pitcher of Tap Water and two Goblets appeared from behind me.

Hector throws down the Goblet (sic)

With the Mother India connection, Hector expected Marg to have Butter Chicken, available as a Main Course (£9.95) or – Small (£6.95). Marg regards the Butter Chicken served at Mother India’s Cafe as – The Best. This is partly down to the Quality of the Curry but also the Tapas-sized portion. Marg finds a full portion of Butter Chicken to be excessive. Hector’s plan was to avoid just – Meat & Masala – by ordering the Mixed Vegetable (£7.50) as a sharing Curry, then both of us should have the required – Diversity.

Initially Marg was not playing. She studied all her options, but finally came on board. A Chapatti (£1.30) was her first mooted accompaniment. In the end, Hector’s preferred share of a Paratha (£3.30, ouch!) and Basmati Fried Rice (£2.90) was deemed acceptable. This is our norm, especially when visiting a new venue: the Quantity of Rice can be assessed and also the efficacy of the Bread.

The Chap whom I would later know to be – The Manager – came to take the Order. I asked if there were Green Peppers in the Mixed Vegetable, apparently so. It was agreed that these would be withheld.

Are you allergic? – he asked, I know they have to cover themselves given what happened in England last year. My abhorrence of Capsicum in Curry was related, Marg was worried when I said – Chillies are OK, just no Peppers. Marg feared a Chilli overdose.

No Starters? – he asked, this appeared to take him aback. I think we had ordered enough. The Order taken, he was back moments later, they only had 500ml Bottles of Sparkling Water (£1.95).  He brought two.

There was a brief chat at this time. That we had travelled to get here was appreciated. Hector believed the Yoker Ferry to be closed, apparently it was reinstated last year. Good information, but how late does it operate?

Soup, not Shorva!

Two tiny portions of Tomato Soup were brought to us. The Manager explained that as our Order was being properly prepared, it would take some time. This was a Complimentary Soupçon! (did I actually just write that…)

The Tomato Soup had a Spice Topping, was Hot and did the job. It tasted far better than my ongoing – Tomato Puree – prepared this afternoon and based on Parveen’s Sunday morning Indian Cookery programme. This too will become Butter Chicken, but not yet.

The food began to arrive, we needed the space. The Butter Chicken was placed nearer me, come on!

The Rice was enough to share, the Paratha, take a look at the Paratha. I have never seen such layering. This Paratha had the – Swirl – was Flaky and was served whole. We had the perfect accompaniments for the Main Courses.

Lamb Shank

Topped with Ginger Strips and a few Fresh Coriander Leaves, this was a work of art. The size of the plate looked, well, silly. But I suppose it had to be this size to accommodate the large piece of Lamb on-the-bone and the lake of Masala which accompanied. Dining alone, I would have eaten from this plate, however there was the Mixed Vegetable to consider and the Rice, decanting was necessary. It was only at this point that I realised the Masala was not just sauce but had quite a few pieces of Boneless Lamb in there too. I took a sufficiency and was then overcome with a flush of generosity. Knowing Marg had minimal Meat, I gave her a couple of decent sized pieces of Lamb, that went down well.

Mixed Vegetable

The Carrots stood out, I have never seen so many and such large pieces of Carrot in a Vegetable Curry, no artistry here. The Peas were also highly visible, the petite florets of Cauliflower would reveal themselves later, Potato? None seen. The Masala impressed. This was in the Hector style: Thick, sufficient, the counterpoint to the accompanying the Lamb Shank.

The first strip of Paratha was dipped into the Lamb Shank Masala, we had a winner! Aniseed was the first Spice to register on the palate, moments later this was altered to Clove. It may have been a combination of both, embarrassing if it was neither. Most importantly, this Masala had a decent Texture and had a genuine depth of Flavour. Latterly, Venison came to mind, this Masala had the richness of Flavour I have come to associate with a Venison Curry, dark, earthy, Umami. Mixing it in with the Rice was very satisfying. Marg knew there was more Masala than I would ever eat, already she was  making plans for it to come home.

The Meat was in two parts. The Boneless Meat perhaps belonged to another Curry, but nothing I could identify from tonight’s Menu. I would happily have had this as a Main Course. It was time to tackle the Lamb Shank itself.  Careful, Hector, eat it, don’t wear it. The Lamb came off the bone with ease, a knife had to be employed to cut it onto more manageable pieces. This Lamb was beyond – Tender. I have encountered some great Quality Lamb in the last couple of months, this must have surpassed everything. The Meat, the Masala, the Paratha, there’s more.

Any Flavours from the Mixed Vegetable were initially drowned by the richness of the rival Masala. The ratio of Carrots to everything else still amused, then I found some Potato, two pieces, Yay! Marg had finished, all that was left was Hector’s. Having taken the last third of the Mixed Vegetable the enjoyment of the – more than just Meat and Masala – was continuing. It was only at this point that the Flavours of this Curry registered. How the palate was able to take on any more surprised this writer, mission accomplished.

No mention has been made of the Spice Level or Seasoning which is the normal Curry-Heute template, no notes were taken on these. The Spice was there but was never demanding. The Seasoning must have been spot on, particularly in the Lamb Shank Masala.

Butter Chicken

Chicken Soup topped with Almonds is how Hector is always going to see this Curry, it is not for me; Marg loves it. The portion matched her needs exactly, enough, not a sickly excess.

Lovely, quite tomatoey, very tasty – were Marg’s first words on the Butter Chicken. Marg confirmed that the Quantity of Masala was such that it required the Rice. What she had here worked well for her:

I liked the tapas.

However, the Lamb pieces certainly impressed Marg also:

Having the Lamb was a lovely contrast.

Everything was eaten except a scrap of the Paratha and the excess Masala from the Lamb Shank. The latter would be left, Hector is working hard at developing new Masalas at home, this would have been an unnecessary distraction.

We chose well – I said to the Manager as he cleared the table. He congratulated us on our choices, but then he was hardly going to take the – p.

Marg was not finished, Mango Ice Cream (£3.95) and an Extra Hot Latte (£2.95) would complete her meal. Hector had been sated, why dilute the wonderful Flavours which were still on the palate?

When the Ice Cream came, one spoon somehow became  two. Hector succumbed, delightful Ice Cream. The Coffee was also as Hot as Marg required. Success.

The Bill

£46.25     It must be Hector’s birthday soon.

The Aftermath

I managed to give the Calling Card to Mein Host, and so began the lengthiest of chats. I believe this was Balram, his years with the Mother India group were related and the opening of their first premises in Stirling. He and his partner Tarun wish to recreate the true style of Indian Curry. Delhi is the city whose Curry has inspired the Fayre at Green Gates. His observation is that people either like their interpretations of Dishes and so return, or quite simply they don’t. He related the tale of a couple who ordered Chicken Pakora and complained it was not – Red. It appears we are on the same page. Green Gates keep their Menu deliberately small, not the page after page of endless tweaks to what comes out of the same pot. The aim is to serve Authentic Cuisine.

Raan for Two (£29.50), a whole Leg of Lamb, is a Dish they are clearly proud of. I wonder how many takers they have? A challenge, for two chaps perhaps?

A third outlet is hoped for, Gibson Street was mentioned. It would be magnificent if they could somehow acquire the original premises, West End rent… What was once the home of Glasgow Curry has no Curry Houses presently, they could make a killing. In the meantime, when is the new bridge over the Clyde due for completion?

The Menu (extracts)

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – Chef Rashid works his wonders

Posted on February 9, 2019 by Hector

There was an early rise this morning, 03.45 (GMT) to accommodate a flight from Malta back to Glasgow-Prestwick. There was only one thing on Hector’s mind thereafter, a Karahi Gosht (£7.90) at Karahi Palace (51 – 53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ). Actually, there were two things on Hector’s mind, a Ceilidh (dance) on the Southside to which the Curryspondent had been summoned, by Marg. Payback time.

Eight Maltese Curry Dishes have been reviewed in the past week, whilst Maharaja (Sliema) most certainly impressed, the Maltese Curry experienced was nowhere near the same Quality as what is presented in the finest Glasgow Curry Houses. Today was Visit #99 to Karahi Palace. Whilst Curry-Heute has featured a significant array of the Dishes served here,  Karahi Gosht reigns supreme.

Arriving just before 18.00, Qaiser was behind the counter, he looked up and smiled. Taking my favourite seat, Chef Rashid looked over from – his spot – and beamed:

How are you?

This was Hector’s first visit to Karahi Palace in 2019. Visit #100 is likely to be in the first half of March, this means I cannot return for a sneaky visit before then. One is tempted to eat at Karahi Palace every week, every day, even.

Qaiser came over to take the Order, as if he didn’t know it. Karahi Gosht and a Chapatti (£0.70). This was relayed verbally across the room to Chef Rashid. Hector had not asked for the usual – extra Salt, extra Methi. Chef Rashid is – The Man – he knows.

Phone orders were aplenty, a new Chap was busy doing deliveries. I saw Jim post, on a Social Medium, photos of a decidedly inferior product from a Curry House in Paisley which Hector may now never visit. Their Chicken Curry looked appalling. Mainstream Curry is available everywhere for those who desire it. For those who wish to be kept up to date with the finest of Punjabi Cuisine in particular, there is Curry-Heute.

Karahi Gosht

Large Green Chillies topped the Karahi Gosht along with Fresh Coriander Stems and Leaves. The Chillies had been cut lengthwise, the Coriander Stems would add a sense of – Grittiness. Beneath the – forest – the Oil sizzled, this Curry was far too hot to touch, but as nature has decreed, not too hot to eat. I tore a strip from the equally hot Wholemeal Chapatti. How good it was to see Bread being charged at an honourable price. I scooped some of the Masala Mash with the Chapatti… ‘kin’ell!

The Seasoning hit the palate hard as simultaneously did the whole gamut of Karahi Palace Flavours. Wonderful, Excellent, Sublime, do not do this Karahi Gosht justice. The Thick Masala was sufficient in Quantity to cover the Meat, it was dark, mysterious and most importantly – Herb-rich. Hector had his Methi, again. The Bones were still too hot to touch, I could see Lamb Chops and Marrowbone, the Meat was stewed, this was not Tandoori to be simply covered in Masala. Eventually it was time to savour the Lamb. How many times have I written about Meat and Masala being strangers? Too often. This was the complete Curry, everything in harmony.

Eating from the karahi meant that both Meat and Masala were still hot at the base, significantly warmer at the end of eating than Maltese Curry was at the start. There was the inevitable disappointment when the base of the black karahi stared back, bare and shiny. Karahi Palace #100 will surely feature the half kilo?

The Bill

£8.60       Yes, this is what one pays for the Finest of Curry in Glasgow!

The Aftermath

I spotted Kofta Anda on display under the counter, another all time favourite.  I do not see this often enough. Qaser told me it is usually prepared on a Friday. Mmmm.

I showed Qaiser the heading for the last review here. He picked up that if today was #99, then… Those who have expressed an interest in attending NKP #100 will be contacted shortly.

In the meantime, Dashing White Sergeant – anyone?

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San Giljan – Suruchi Indian Restaurant – The Fourth Malta Curry House Reviewed

Posted on February 7, 2019 by Hector

The Curry Houses of Malta are mainly clustered on the adjacent peninsulas of Sliema and San Giljan (St. Julian’s). It would have been remiss of Hector not to have a Curry here. The reconnaissance was done two days ago when I managed to open the door to Suruchi Indian Restaurant (Triq Ball, 35, San Giljan Malta) even though it was apparent that they were not open. The same Chap who was glad to tell me they were closed on Tuesday told me that it would be another ten minutes before they were opening today. Having arrived at 12.20 for the advertised noon opening, Hector was going nowhere. A seat at a table was taken:

I’ll wait.

The very colourful Menu was provided, in fact the whole room seemed very colourful. The picture of the Taj Mahal reminded me of the Scottish flag, what was that about? Plates adorned the wall, each commemorating an award for a specific year. There was a small plate for 2019 already. Who wins Awards?

There was an annoying noise. The fridge.

Hector was waiting patiently having already made up his mind. A young lady entered and had a somewhat lengthy conversation with the now two Chaps about hours and pay, none of my business.

The Chicken section of the Menu was extensive. All the Curry Menus I have seen in Malta have featured Beef and Lamb, the latter always being more expensive. Chicken Karahi and Beef Karahi were both available, even King Prawn Karahi (€17.50), no Lamb Karahi.

I considered Rogan Josh (€11.95) but the mention of – Yoghurt – put me off, I prefer the Traditional Tomato-rich interpretation. Bhuna Gosht (€11.95) it would be accompanied by a Plain Naan (€3.50). No way was I paying the asking price for Rice. €3.50 for a Roti was also ridiculous.

The given description for Bhuna Gosht avoided the – Dreaded Ballast – however, I was taking no chances:

No Green Peppers in the Bhuna?

Yes, green peppers.

No Green Peppers.

The Spice Level was discussed, despite the Waiter’s warning, Hector would go for – Hot-Spicy.

A 250ml Bottle of Sparkling Water (€1.50) completed the Order.

Great Delight – and – Happiness – is how – Suruchi – translates into English. Here’s hoping.

Bhuna Gosht

A very Soupy looking Curry was presented. The Masala at least had a gloopy consistency. The single strand of Ginger was commensurate with the modest Toppings which have been a feature of Curry in Malta this week. I could not see the Meat initially and so had no idea how much there was of it. I was settling down to my Soupy Curry when Marg walked in.

Marg had taken herself for Coffee at a nearby venue. The Coffee was not served hot enough, unacceptable. Marg was here sooner than she planned and in time to take a photo.

Marg spotted the Thin and Crispy Naan. She was of the opinion that this was better than the Thicker, more Doughy, Traditional Tandoori Naan. I disagreed, but then found myself eating the entire Naan, and there was a lot of it. It was a pity that it had to be served in so many pieces.

The Bhuna Gosht had been served suitably Hot in temperature. As is my norm, I would eat from the metal pot rather than decant to the provided plate. The Blended, Creamy Masala was decidedly – Spicy. I made no note regarding the Seasoning and so concluded this was not an issue. The Lamb had been cut mostly small, I counted each piece as I encountered it, eventually double figures were reached. There was enough Meat in the Masala, though the latter may well have been excessive. I could taste the Flavour of the Lamb itself but little more. There was nothing outstanding about this Curry in terms of Flavour. Towards the end I bit into a piece of Aniseed, at last, something to come to terms with, a variation from the monotony.

All four Curry Houses visited in Malta this week have been very much in the Mainstream. Maharaja was the standout in terms of Flavour. If these four venues are a representative cross section of Curry in Malta, then there is not really much to become excited about. There is always the Tandoori option, but Grill Houses are aplenty in the Mediterranean.

The Bill

€16.95 (£14.87) An OK price, however, beware of the price of Rice unless sharing.

The Aftermath

Cards were exchanged. When asked how I found the Curry I had to accentuate the positives.

It was Spicy as you said, and I enjoyed finding the Aniseed.

As I departed, I was already looking forward to my next Curry, back in Glasgow.

And so Marg and Hector headed to the south coast of Malta to visit Hagar Qim, standing stones which date back some five and a half thousand years.

Menu Extracts

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Sliema – Krishna – Hector meets – The Neil Armstrong – of Maltese Curry

Posted on February 6, 2019 by Hector

Marg went for lunch on the balcony at M&S from where there is a view over the Sliema-Valletta ferry service. Hector wandered further along the front to Krishna (97, The Strand, SLM 1022, Sliema Malta). Mein Host was sitting with his back to the door working on some files, a colleague outside let him know a customer had entered. He showed me to a table in a booth then was straight over with the Menu.

The number of Lamb Curry Dishes to choose from impressed. Lamb Achari Masala (€11.50) nearly had me, however, after last nights dose of Methi at nearby Maharaja, there had to be more. Is Methi addictive? Lamb Alo Methi (€11.50) and a Paratha (€3.00) would be accompanied by a 750ml Bottle of Sparkling Water. I noted that Rice (€4.75) was needlessly expensive. 

Sky News was on, Donald Tusk had just insulted the Brexiteers. I see no sign of Sterling recovering since the UK voted to leave the EU. I took in the surroundings, Like Maharaja and Tuk Tuk (Valletta), Krishna is the width and length of the standard Maltese shop unit. With long tables arranged down the left and four booths on the right wall, I estimated that about thirty could be accommodated inside. In summer, more could be sat under the pavement canopy.

*

A hot plate arrived moments before the food, how I could have done with this last night at Maharaja. The food was brought by one of the Chefs judging by his kitchen attire. The Paratha impressed immediately, it had – The Swirl – and was clearly Layered and Flaky, success. This was a Paratha.

Lamb Alo Methi

The small cut Lamb sat the left of the platter with the Potatoes on the right. The Masala was light brown and a bit on the Thin side. The Masala had a smooth appearance but was possibly not blended.

On the first dip of the Paratha into the Masala, one strong Spicy Flavour dominated, this has been described previously as – Packet Curry Powder Mix Flavoured – not that this was necessarily the source ingredient. If one uses a Packet Curry Powder Mix and overdoes it, then this is the Flavour one ends up with; Hector knows, having committed this crime. Curry Paste does not create this, nor does any house blended Garam Masala that Hector has encountered. The single Flavour was somewhere between – Foostie – and – Earthy – and not the most complex of taste experiences.
The Meat was Tender, the Potato had been well cooked. In the dim light I thought I thought saw Tomato Seeds in Masala, in the photo I cannot identify the tiny specks, they were not seeds. There was no blast of – Methi – despite Herbs being visible in the Masala.

Can I get you another? – asked Mein Host referring to the Paratha.

The offer was declined, only when a Paratha is too small, can Hector finish a whole one. I took the opperchancity to praise the Paratha:

This is how a Paratha should be, thank you.

Overall, the was not a – bad – Curry Experience. The Curry was edible, Spicy, and far from – bland – which is never acceptable.

The Bill

€19.50 (£17.11) €5.00 for the Sparkling Water was quite steep. What happened to the lunchtime – 20% – Happy Hour Discount – on the a la carte Menu?

The Aftermath

Mein Host, Robert, was keen to tell me that he is – The Neil Armstrong – of Curry in Malta. He was the first man to set up a Curry House on the island. His first venture was Taj Mahal which is no more.

Robert told me that he had recently visited Manchester (England) and did not like the Curry. Perhaps he should consult Curry-Heute before any return visit. Hector has not found anything on Malta that comes close to – the best of Manchester.

Menu Extracts

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Sliema – Maharaja – Hector had his Methi

Posted on February 5, 2019 by Hector

Malta in February, we were taking our chances. Sunday morning was t-shirt weather, since then conditions have declined. The three couples headed towards San Giljan this afternoon independently, thanks to an incessant gale we were all back in Sliema by 15.30.

Hector had located four Curry Houses in St. Julian’s only one of which was open – Saffron – which was decidedly – Pukka. Saffron’s – Machhi Rahra – (€11.50) could well be the Fish Curry Hector seeks. Suruchi and Empire of India also appeared to be attractive prospects.

Our chosen rendezvous this evening was Maharaja (55 Triq Ix – Xatt, Tas-Sliema SLM 1022 Malta) at 19.30. Marg and Hector arrived promptly to secure a table for six. There was space at the door which would not have been an attractive prospect given the continuing draft. The table at the Bar was rotated and seats added at both ends. Menus for six were provided. On realising that half of the tables for four were only occupied by couples, we felt crammed even before the arrival of Les Autres. Marg summoned Mein Host, another small table was added at the end of ours, much better.

Fish Vindaloo (€8.50) was my first choice due to the promise of a – hot thick … sauce. At the time of ordering, I changed my mind on realising that South Indian Fish Curry (€9.50) might be closer to a Chettinad. The only place I spotted Methi on the Menu was Methi Alu (€7.25) in the – Vegetable Garden – section. Side Dishes – it said here, the prices all reflected that of a Vegetable Main Course, there was no discount for a – Side. A somewhat pricey Paratha (€3.75) would complete Hector’s selection.

Marg said she would have Mixed Vegetable Pacoras (€4.25) if she could find someone to share it with. For her Main, Lamb Karahi (€8.75) would be accompanied by a Nan (€2.25).

Steve, Louise, Ian and Ann arrived just after 19.30 and took their places. Steve immediately remarked that he liked the prices. Indeed, the Mains were appreciably less than I had seen at Tuk Tuk (Valletta) yesterday. Ian and Ann would share Mixed Vegetable Pacoras leaving Marg to ask for Louise’s assistance. Steve and Louise decided to invest in Poppadoms (€3.00) which would come as a pair with a Pickle Tray.

Ian declared a Lamb Karahi as did Steve. I suggested to Steve that if three people were having this, it had better be good. This was sufficient motivation for Steve to change to the Bhuna Gosht (€8.75). Steve was initially concerned that their use of the term – Dry – may make it so in the extreme. I convinced him that this was most unlikely in a European Curry House. Louise chose her favoured Lamb Rogan Josh Kashmiri (€7.75), Ann opted for Butter Chicken (€8.75). Two orders of Nan and Pullao Plain (€3.00) would complete the food order, plus – a Portion of Mango Chutney please, now for the Drinks.

The fridge had Bottles of Cobra, and tins of a Pils (ugh) also Martens Gold which was brewed in Belgium. A Belgian – Supermarket Bier – I assumed, I had to try one, Steve and Louse went for Cobra. The Bier prices were not on the Menu, we established later that all Bier was €3.00. Marg asked for a 750ml Bottle of Sparkling Water (€3.00) and managed to sneak in a Glass of Mango Lassi (€3.00). Ian asked for Fresh Orange Juice, whilst Ann found a half Bottle of Red Wine (€6.75) that suited her palate: Carisimi for those who know about that sort of thing. Hector only ever orders Bier with Curry on nights out – to dine, as for Wine, I have yet to be convinced that it is compatible with Curry. Half litre Bottles of Still Water would make appearances at the far end of the end of the table as the meal progressed.

Before the Order was given, Ann wondered if I was sending this to the kitchen directly such was the thoroughness of my note taking. That day may come, the Waitress took the Order on her Pad, we still need the middle man, presently.

By 20.15, Maharaja was full. This was a Tuesday night in winter, one can only wonder what business is like here in the summer. I suspect bookings would be mandatory. Maharaja is not large, a standard shop unit in Malta, it was too busy to take photos. The décor is not OTT, one knew it was a Curry House, Bollywood Movies played incessantly. At least there was no screechy female singing, or is Hector becoming immune?

The Poppadoms were first to arrive accompanied by Lime Pickle, Mango, and Raita.
Too much salt in the Pickle – was Steve’s first take before he devoured it.
Louise added – it tastes as if it has been in the back of Grandma’s cupboard for a while.

Lime Pickle is an acquired taste.

The Pakora looked quite feeble. Seven pieces of something singular in batter. Aubergine, Onion, Paneer, and Spinach were present, a half of the Cheese Pakora came my way, it was – OK. Steve questioned if there was actually any Spice in the batter.

Ann said – the good thing is, they’re not filling, enjoyable Pakora.

A bit thin – added Ian.

Hector was happy to have basically missed out on the Starters. This was not Pakora, this is Pakora, recipe too.

Keema Naan – said the Waitress when she started bringing the Bread. Nobody had ordered one, it was placed in front of Steve and Louise. The Paratha came eventually, after everyone had received their Mains, Hector was therefore last to start eating. The Menu clearly says – Layered – in the description of Paratha. I looked and saw no layers.

The Paratha was Pale and could have done with much more firing. Soft– was the only box ticked. It was Thin, showed no sign of layering and was decidedly not Flaky. This quite simply was not a Paratha. Comparing this with the Naan showed little difference, they too were – Thin and Peely Wally. The Bread was therefore a major disappointment. The two Portions of Rice came on one platter, there was enough for everyone who desired it. Rice may well be the better option at Maharaja.

Lamb Karahi

First impressions were quite pleasing, this had the desired Thick and Minimal Masala, however, Hector spotted the – dreaded green ballast – protruding from the Curry. It was full of Capsicum and had big blobs of Onion. Marg had to admit that she had not asked for the Capsicum to be withheld as she would normally do. She hates big pieces of Onion also, how many times has she fallen foul of this? On any other day, Hector may well have been tempted by the presence of Lamb Karahi on the Menu, mine would hopefully have been served without the Ballast, – add another Vegetable, any – is the customary challenge.

There were positives, the Meat was declared Tender by both Marg and Ian. The Flavours were to their liking. A piece of Marg’s Lamb came my way, fine, more Seasoning required perhaps. The Spice Level was not a challenge.

Ian had expected his Karahi to be served in a karahi. He did accept that it may have been cooked in one. His words:

It was good, a good balance of flavours and spices. Could have had more meat than the green peppers.

That Marg left half a bowl of – Ballast – says it all.

Butter Chicken

The red tinges on the Meat made me wonder if this was Chicken Tikka. Hector had not studied the Chicken section of the Menu. This Butter Chicken looked exactly like the Curry which Hector eschews – Soup! Chicken Soup at that. Each to their own. Here was the Creamy Masala which is loved by so many, Ann included:
Superb, spicy sauce, not too creamy, fantastic, flavoursome, better than the UK.

I had to express my surprise at the latter observation, Ann toned it down quite a bit:

Helensburgh.

Lamb Rogan Josh Kashmiri

There are typically two main interpretations of Rogan Josh, the Tomato-rich version which has been around since the 1970s and the Creamy version which materialised in the last twenty years or so. This was version #3. The Brown Masala surprised, it appeared to have a reasonable level of viscosity, a marked improvement on that described immediately above. Hector would have to set the challenge – in what way was this a Rogan Josh?

Louise’s verdict:
Lacking in tomato for a Rogan Josh, a lot of aniseed flavour. The presence of Aniseed was taken to be a negative. Louise continued:
Enjoyable, and the meat was very tender.

Bhuna Gosht

This is the Curry Hector would have ordered had the Fish not been the distraction.

Here was a slightly lighter Brown Masala whose Thickness was comparable to a Rara Gosht. There was still more Masala than Hector would expect in a Bhuna, at least Steve’s fear that it may have been served – Too Dry – had been averted… as Hector predicted. Steve’s description:

Tender meat, I requested spicy and it was spicy. Aniseed flavour, which I liked, good consistency of spices.

South Indian Fish Curry

The Masala was a lighter Brown still, approaching yellow,  and as Soupy as I have sadly come to expect.  The Quantity of Fish did not initially appear to be much. As I decanted the Fish and Masala to the cool plate I accepted that the Quantity was sufficient. Normally I would have eaten straight from the bowl, but the presence of the Side Dish made this necessary.

Marg got there first and dipped some Naan in the Masala:

I think you’re going to like this – exclaimed Marg whilst I was still taking photos. It had the required – Smoky Aroma.

Methi Alu

How happy was Hector when this was placed on the table? This was most certainly amongst the most impressive sights ever, a plateful of Potato thickly coated in Herbs, Hector had his Methi. Some appeared to be cooked in, some sprinkled on top, a double whammy, Excellent. The only problem, it was not piping hot when it arrived and would cool too quickly. How I needed a tea-light heater.

The Fish was – Rubbery – as Monkfish (was it?) tends to be served. Where was the favoured Tilapia? This Curry was all about the Masala, a beautifully blended Smoky – Chettinad-flavoured – masterpiece. This was everything I did not manage to create in my own kitchen last week, or experience yesterday at Tuk Tuk (Valletta). The Menu description quoted both Coconut (Milk), which I am loath to add to a Curry, and Tamarind which I normally do. Perhaps these are the keys to the Chettinad Kingdom? Given the Soupy nature of the Masala, Rice would logically have been the more sensible accompaniment. Hector had his Methi. One could have mashed the Potato, no way, the Herb coverage was immense, let’s see it. This Aloo Methi was worth the admission price alone. When the Fish had gone the Chettinad Masala and the Methi-shrouded Potato became a Dish in its own right. It was at this point that Marg gave me two pieces of Lamb from her Karahi, there was a momentary – Lamb Chettinad. Everyone had finished, Hector was still savouring the moment. What a combination: simple Meat and Masala had been avoided, here was the confirmation regarding what is written oft in Curry-Heute, one needs an – Interesting Vegetable – to have this Quantity of Methi was simply sublime.

One likes to try new venues in the hope of discovering somewhere that truly impresses, the Chef at Maharaja had just achieved this.

Rowing Jack (Ale Browar, Polska) was calling, no time for Coffee this evening.

The Bill

€121.95 (£106.97) An astonishing €31.75 was for the Bar Bill, over €5.00 each! We were here to dine, we had.

The Aftermath

Maharaja was still very busy, I knew there would be little opperchancity for discourse with Mein Host, the Calling Card was presented. There was an appreciation that the writer of a Curry Blog was here. It was the Waitress who appeared to understand the writing on the Calling Card – Curry-Heute. Regardless of the criticisms above, the Ballast, and the Bread in particular, Hector had been served a wonderful combination of Masala and Aloo Methi, not by chance but by design. Ann came up to the counter to address Mein Host also, her appreciation of the Butter Chicken was relayed.

There may well be Curry at Maharaja for all, perhaps one should avoid the Bread presently.

Maharaja Menu Extracts

Posted in Maharaja, San Giljan | Comments Off on Sliema – Maharaja – Hector had his Methi

Valletta – Tuk Tuk – South Indian Food – Chettinad Week, continued…

Posted on February 4, 2019 by Hector

It is – The February Week – for those still involved in the World of Education, that’ll be Marg and Louise. Six of us are in Malta, reunited for the first time since Madeira 2017. There is a lot of Curry to be had in Malta, unfortunately for Hector, Day 3 provided the first opperchancity to go exploring, the famous Maltese Rabbit Stew and Mediterranean Seafood having been the distractions until Curry-Heute.

Marg and Hector were on the 11.30 ferry from Sliema across to Valletta, five minutes on a boat being quite enough for Hector. As predicted, the heavens opened, we took refuge at Tuk Tuk – South Indian Food (174 Merchants St, Valletta Malta) just after their noon opening time.

Four other diners were already in situ, more would come. Tuk Tuk has twelve tables in a cavern-like room and seats around thirty. Mein Host brought the Menu. Lunch Express (€10.00) may well have been good value, however, Hector was here for one Curry only – Chettinad Lamb (€14.50). Having extolled the joy of this Curry at Banana Leaf (Glasgow) last week and then having subsequently prepared my own Chettinad Masala, the Flavours of South Indian Cuisine are very much to the fore presently in Hector’s World.

Jeera Rice (€3.70) would accompany, we agreed on – Hot – at the time of ordering for the Chettinad. Hector was sorted, Marg was less fortunate. Instead of her customary lunchtime Samosa, Marg decided upon Lamb Keema Dosa (€8.70).

We are not doing Dosa – Marg was informed.

It says until 5pm – responded Marg who would have been having a first.

Mein Host suggested Lamb Naanwich (€7.60). This was accepted. A 0.75l Bottle of Sparkling Water (€3.80) completed the Order.

This would be Hector’s first Maltese Curry since 1990 when Neil and Hector found a Curry House in Qawra/Bugibba. There will be no chance of tracking that venue down again, there are plenty in Sliema/St. Julian’s to amuse even Hector this week.

Lamb Naanwich

What a plateful, the halved Naan was stuffed with Keema, Cheese and Coleslaw, the accompanying Salad and Crisps made this very much a meal.

The inside is cold and the outside is hot – was Marg’s puzzling description.

The Naan is hot but the Keema, Cheese and Coleslaw are cold – she clarified.

I expected more Keema – she added later – I liked the Coleslaw, there was too much Bread for me, but I accept it was called a Naanwich. I am willing to try new things, but I did want a Dosa.

The next two customers that arrived also asked for – Dosa. Why have this on the Menu and not serve it?

The Jeera Rice was decanted on to the cold rectangular plate. This was a sensibly sized portion of Rice, but Chef had been a bit mean with the Cumin Seeds.

Chettinad Lamb

A sliver of something green topped the Curry, nothing I recognised. One should not take Fresh Coriander and Ginger for granted. The Thickness of the Masala took me by surprise, too many venues serve a Chettinad Masala which approaches Shorva, it does not have to be this way, Hector was already impressed. Initially I thought the Meat content was woefully lacking, the Masala had covered the Meat superbly. As each piece of Lamb was arranged over the Rice so I counted, eight was reached, seven pieces were decidedly – Large – and would have to be cut. There was most certainly enough Meat present to justify the price.

The Quantity of Masala was sufficient for the accompanying Rice, there was no needless excess. At last, a Chettinad that was not Soup.

The Spice hit the palate instantly as did the lack of Seasoning. I waited for the anticipated – Chettinad Smokey – Flavours to emerge, they didn’t. Where were the customary Dark Red Chillies?

The texture of the Meat was Excellent, Tender Lamb, suitably Soft and giving off the distinctive Flavour of Lamb. But that was it, the Meat was giving back no more.

As I ate on, I released I was still hoping for more. The cold plate meant that the meal was cooling rapidly. There was no – Jeera Blast – from the remaining Rice. This was no more than a Competent Curry, I have to ask – in what way was this a Chettinad?

Marg decided to order House Chai (€1.60) without Sugar. It was still pouring outside, we were in no hurry to depart, good move. On its arrival, Marg was immediately impressed by the aroma of Cardamom. She enjoyed her Tea, for Hector it resembled a West Coast Milky IPA in terms of appearance. Each to their own.

The Bill

€31.20 (£27.37) Malta feels less expensive than it was before they joined the Euro.

The Aftermath

I gave the Calling Card to the Chap who cleared the table, he summoned – the Man in charge. I gave my usual spiel and showed Mein Host the Chettinad Masala I had prepared a few days ago. I have to admit that I did not attain the desired level of – Smokiness – but Marg confirmed there was some, today, none. Mein Host mentioned the term – Fusion – more than once in the ensuing conversation. Once more we have a Curry House which is serving Indian Food as they think the – Westerners – desire it. Hopefully I made it clear that if people choose to dine at an Indian Restaurant, then genuine Indian Cuisine is what they should be served, not some random derivative. Mein Host said that they are planning a – refurbishment – of the Menu in the middle of the year. I suggested that they should have Desi/Apna Dishes available.

In the meantime, if anyone is in München (Deutschland), then surely the finest Lamb Chettinad on the planet is to be found – here.

Tuk Tuk Menu extracts

Posted in Tuk Tuk - South Indian Food | Comments Off on Valletta – Tuk Tuk – South Indian Food – Chettinad Week, continued…

Hector prepares a Chettinad Masala, then cooks…twice.

Posted on January 31, 2019 by Hector

Since the first dry fried Masala experience at the Lighthouse Hotel (Galle, Sri Lanka) back in 2003, Hector has been fascinated by this alternative to the Punjabi Cuisine which prevails in the West of Scotland. Indian Mango (München) sets the standard for Lamb/Fish Chettinad which has not been equalled in all my travels. Aberdeen’s – Rishi’s Indian Aroma – was my first recorded encounter of Chettinad in the UK, but theirs is a very Soupy Curry when it doesn’t have to be.

Having consulted a few sources, Ajwain/Aniseed/Carom Seeds appeared to be a crucial addition to Hector’s spice cupboard. The purchase of these plus Smoked Dried Prawns and Dried Red Chillies were sufficient motivation to have a go.

Chettinad Masala

Approximately a tablespoon of each of the following were combined: Cumin Seeds, Fennel Seeds, Ajwain/Aniseed/Carom Seeds, Star Anise, Coriander Seeds, Pepper Corns, Cloves, Green Cardamom, Curry Leaves, Mustard Seeds, Turmeric, and Onion Seeds. A handful of Dry Red Chillies and four pieces of Cinnamon Bark were also added. The mix was dry fried, with care. Experiments in the past have taught me that one does not go too far else all turns to Carbon in a flash. The resulting smoke is intolerable. The Smoked Prawns were added to the above and everything was ground. Such was the quantity of Masala created, this may be making regular appearances in the months to come.

The Base Masala

An Onion and Tomato Base Sauce was created as has been recorded many times in these pages, the Recipe is here. After a good half hour to create the Masala Mash the Spices were added. I was out of Smoked Paprika – oops – and so added some Chilli Flakes to the Chettinad Masala.  Instinct told me there had to be Lemon Juice.

Hector is never going to make a Soupy Masala, even when adding some Water to stave off any chance of the Masala burning, I saw it reduce surprisingly quickly.  In keeping with British Indian Restaurant Curry, the Mash was blended.

Most of the cooked Chettinad Masala was set aside for another day, time to add the Meat. Here was a cheat, I had a good portion of slow cooked Leg of Lamb left over from a previous meal. Yes, Hector even eats Lamb when it is not in a Curry. The Lamb had been roasted in Garlic and Herbs, the pedigree was there.

Even more Water was added to the mix, again it quickly reduced. One day there will be a Shorva served at Hector’s House, not tonight.

Lamb Chettinad

Visually, this was most pleasing: a Thick Masala and not excessive. The Flavours were recognisably more complex than anything I have ever previously cooked, but where was the – Smokiness? It was there, just, subtle. The Spice Level had been deliberately set to – Medium – as I intend to use this Masala for the foreseeable. The Seasoning was as Hector tends to serve – Khara!

Tasty as the Lamb was, there was no denying that the Meat and Masala were strangers until recently. The Lamb held its own, as is already written, this was Quality Lamb.

Meat, Masala, Rice, perhaps I should have added an Interesting Vegetable. I ate on, wondering how much I should congratulate myself. I was thoroughly enjoying this and was looking forward to next time – Fish Chettinad.

So, the time after next

Perhaps I could dry fry the Chettinad Masala once again, add more Dry Red Chillies and Smoked Dried Prawns? Cococnut Milk may make an appearance. I could resort to buying a packet of Chettinad Mix.

Marg returned from work having had consecutive after-work commitments. Two on the same night, who planned this? She had missed dinner, what could I rustle up?

Vegetable Chettinad

I grabbed some Courgette, Peas and a Carrot, a Stir Fry was underway. Two dessert spoons of the cooked Chettinad Masala and some Water were added. There was leftover Rice. Behold, a Curry!

As is Marg’s norm, the first mouthful was greeted with the usual protest – Spicy!

That is not Spicy – was my emphatic reply.

This was accepted, Marg then went to comment about the Oil, however, this was from the Stir Fry element, not the Masala. Every morsel was eaten, Marg enjoyed her Impromptu Curry, she thought it tasted – Smokey.  

Posted in Hector's Cooking | 2 Comments

Glasgow – Banana Leaf – Posh Surroundings, Modest Establishment

Posted on January 30, 2019 by Hector

Tomorrow night will see Hector create a mass of Chettinad Masala with the view to cooking a Lamb Chettinad initially. With the taste of Chettinad firmly planted in the mind, the autopilot took Hector to Banana Leaf (76B, Old Dumbarton Rd, Glasgow, G3 8RE) this afternoon. In November, Banana Leaf was found to be closed on a Saturday afternoon, Hector ended up across the street at Shah’s Kitchen. Mein Host assured me today that Banana Leaf is open every day except Tuesday around noon, though sometimes it is later when he has to go and shop.

Thanks for coming – was the unusual greeting from Mein Host as I entered, one expects this as a farewell. At 16.00, Hector was the Lone Diner. I took the middle table, the most comfortable of the three. In the overflow room next door all the chairs were still piled high.  One day I’ll get to sit in the big room.

Lamb Chettinadu with inclusive Rice (£7.99) plus a Paratha (£1.50) was the Order. This Curry needs Rice, or does it? One could easily have two Parathas. They may tick all the boxes, however, the Parathas at Banana Leaf are decidedly small, but perfectly formed.

I lost track of time whilst I waited. The wait was not a long one. The Rice serving was Sensible, a plateful, no more. I looked at the Curry, this was far from my normal Punjabi Cuisine.

Lamb Chettinadu

Seven good sized pieces of Meat were arranged on top of the Rice. I took around half of the Blended, Soupy Masala and smothered the Lamb. I had to start by dipping Paratha into the Shorva. Mmmmm – all expectations were satisfied. The South Indian Smoky Flavour came across immediately, success. The Spice and Seasoning were both exactly as I would desire them – testing, Peppery. When I make my own Chettinad Masala, I will not be holding back on the Peppercorns.

The Meat was firm but Tender. The sense of the Meat belonging to the Masala varied. Initially the Lamb appeared to have absorbed the Flavours from the Masala, latterly, this was lost. When Chefs count out the Meat, do they take some from the top of the pot, and some from the bottom?

Next time, I’ll splash out and order a Vegetable accompaniment. This Chettinad was very much just Meat and Masala, but the Masala packed so much Flavour. I should eat this more often. Tomorrow!

The Bill

£9.49    A modest price for a proper feed.

The Aftermath

Did you enjoy? – asked Mein Host.

Yes, always. I’ll need to try the Fish, do you do Fish Chettinadu? (knowing full well it is not on the Menu, why?)

No Prawn and Chicken.

He mentioned the Fish Moilee, I was sold on this, next time.

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