San Giljan – Suruchi Indian Restaurant – The Fourth Malta Curry House Reviewed

Posted on February 7, 2019 by Hector

The Curry Houses of Malta are mainly clustered on the adjacent peninsulas of Sliema and San Giljan (St. Julian’s). It would have been remiss of Hector not to have a Curry here. The reconnaissance was done two days ago when I managed to open the door to Suruchi Indian Restaurant (Triq Ball, 35, San Giljan Malta) even though it was apparent that they were not open. The same Chap who was glad to tell me they were closed on Tuesday told me that it would be another ten minutes before they were opening today. Having arrived at 12.20 for the advertised noon opening, Hector was going nowhere. A seat at a table was taken:

I’ll wait.

The very colourful Menu was provided, in fact the whole room seemed very colourful. The picture of the Taj Mahal reminded me of the Scottish flag, what was that about? Plates adorned the wall, each commemorating an award for a specific year. There was a small plate for 2019 already. Who wins Awards?

There was an annoying noise. The fridge.

Hector was waiting patiently having already made up his mind. A young lady entered and had a somewhat lengthy conversation with the now two Chaps about hours and pay, none of my business.

The Chicken section of the Menu was extensive. All the Curry Menus I have seen in Malta have featured Beef and Lamb, the latter always being more expensive. Chicken Karahi and Beef Karahi were both available, even King Prawn Karahi (€17.50), no Lamb Karahi.

I considered Rogan Josh (€11.95) but the mention of – Yoghurt – put me off, I prefer the Traditional Tomato-rich interpretation. Bhuna Gosht (€11.95) it would be accompanied by a Plain Naan (€3.50). No way was I paying the asking price for Rice. €3.50 for a Roti was also ridiculous.

The given description for Bhuna Gosht avoided the – Dreaded Ballast – however, I was taking no chances:

No Green Peppers in the Bhuna?

Yes, green peppers.

No Green Peppers.

The Spice Level was discussed, despite the Waiter’s warning, Hector would go for – Hot-Spicy.

A 250ml Bottle of Sparkling Water (€1.50) completed the Order.

Great Delight – and – Happiness – is how – Suruchi – translates into English. Here’s hoping.

Bhuna Gosht

A very Soupy looking Curry was presented. The Masala at least had a gloopy consistency. The single strand of Ginger was commensurate with the modest Toppings which have been a feature of Curry in Malta this week. I could not see the Meat initially and so had no idea how much there was of it. I was settling down to my Soupy Curry when Marg walked in.

Marg had taken herself for Coffee at a nearby venue. The Coffee was not served hot enough, unacceptable. Marg was here sooner than she planned and in time to take a photo.

Marg spotted the Thin and Crispy Naan. She was of the opinion that this was better than the Thicker, more Doughy, Traditional Tandoori Naan. I disagreed, but then found myself eating the entire Naan, and there was a lot of it. It was a pity that it had to be served in so many pieces.

The Bhuna Gosht had been served suitably Hot in temperature. As is my norm, I would eat from the metal pot rather than decant to the provided plate. The Blended, Creamy Masala was decidedly – Spicy. I made no note regarding the Seasoning and so concluded this was not an issue. The Lamb had been cut mostly small, I counted each piece as I encountered it, eventually double figures were reached. There was enough Meat in the Masala, though the latter may well have been excessive. I could taste the Flavour of the Lamb itself but little more. There was nothing outstanding about this Curry in terms of Flavour. Towards the end I bit into a piece of Aniseed, at last, something to come to terms with, a variation from the monotony.

All four Curry Houses visited in Malta this week have been very much in the Mainstream. Maharaja was the standout in terms of Flavour. If these four venues are a representative cross section of Curry in Malta, then there is not really much to become excited about. There is always the Tandoori option, but Grill Houses are aplenty in the Mediterranean.

The Bill

€16.95 (£14.87) An OK price, however, beware of the price of Rice unless sharing.

The Aftermath

Cards were exchanged. When asked how I found the Curry I had to accentuate the positives.

It was Spicy as you said, and I enjoyed finding the Aniseed.

As I departed, I was already looking forward to my next Curry, back in Glasgow.

And so Marg and Hector headed to the south coast of Malta to visit Hagar Qim, standing stones which date back some five and a half thousand years.

Menu Extracts

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Sliema – Krishna – Hector meets – The Neil Armstrong – of Maltese Curry

Posted on February 6, 2019 by Hector

Marg went for lunch on the balcony at M&S from where there is a view over the Sliema-Valletta ferry service. Hector wandered further along the front to Krishna (97, The Strand, SLM 1022, Sliema Malta). Mein Host was sitting with his back to the door working on some files, a colleague outside let him know a customer had entered. He showed me to a table in a booth then was straight over with the Menu.

The number of Lamb Curry Dishes to choose from impressed. Lamb Achari Masala (€11.50) nearly had me, however, after last nights dose of Methi at nearby Maharaja, there had to be more. Is Methi addictive? Lamb Alo Methi (€11.50) and a Paratha (€3.00) would be accompanied by a 750ml Bottle of Sparkling Water. I noted that Rice (€4.75) was needlessly expensive. 

Sky News was on, Donald Tusk had just insulted the Brexiteers. I see no sign of Sterling recovering since the UK voted to leave the EU. I took in the surroundings, Like Maharaja and Tuk Tuk (Valletta), Krishna is the width and length of the standard Maltese shop unit. With long tables arranged down the left and four booths on the right wall, I estimated that about thirty could be accommodated inside. In summer, more could be sat under the pavement canopy.

*

A hot plate arrived moments before the food, how I could have done with this last night at Maharaja. The food was brought by one of the Chefs judging by his kitchen attire. The Paratha impressed immediately, it had – The Swirl – and was clearly Layered and Flaky, success. This was a Paratha.

Lamb Alo Methi

The small cut Lamb sat the left of the platter with the Potatoes on the right. The Masala was light brown and a bit on the Thin side. The Masala had a smooth appearance but was possibly not blended.

On the first dip of the Paratha into the Masala, one strong Spicy Flavour dominated, this has been described previously as – Packet Curry Powder Mix Flavoured – not that this was necessarily the source ingredient. If one uses a Packet Curry Powder Mix and overdoes it, then this is the Flavour one ends up with; Hector knows, having committed this crime. Curry Paste does not create this, nor does any house blended Garam Masala that Hector has encountered. The single Flavour was somewhere between – Foostie – and – Earthy – and not the most complex of taste experiences.
The Meat was Tender, the Potato had been well cooked. In the dim light I thought I thought saw Tomato Seeds in Masala, in the photo I cannot identify the tiny specks, they were not seeds. There was no blast of – Methi – despite Herbs being visible in the Masala.

Can I get you another? – asked Mein Host referring to the Paratha.

The offer was declined, only when a Paratha is too small, can Hector finish a whole one. I took the opperchancity to praise the Paratha:

This is how a Paratha should be, thank you.

Overall, the was not a – bad – Curry Experience. The Curry was edible, Spicy, and far from – bland – which is never acceptable.

The Bill

€19.50 (£17.11) €5.00 for the Sparkling Water was quite steep. What happened to the lunchtime – 20% – Happy Hour Discount – on the a la carte Menu?

The Aftermath

Mein Host, Robert, was keen to tell me that he is – The Neil Armstrong – of Curry in Malta. He was the first man to set up a Curry House on the island. His first venture was Taj Mahal which is no more.

Robert told me that he had recently visited Manchester (England) and did not like the Curry. Perhaps he should consult Curry-Heute before any return visit. Hector has not found anything on Malta that comes close to – the best of Manchester.

Menu Extracts

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Sliema – Maharaja – Hector had his Methi

Posted on February 5, 2019 by Hector

Malta in February, we were taking our chances. Sunday morning was t-shirt weather, since then conditions have declined. The three couples headed towards San Giljan this afternoon independently, thanks to an incessant gale we were all back in Sliema by 15.30.

Hector had located four Curry Houses in St. Julian’s only one of which was open – Saffron – which was decidedly – Pukka. Saffron’s – Machhi Rahra – (€11.50) could well be the Fish Curry Hector seeks. Suruchi and Empire of India also appeared to be attractive prospects.

Our chosen rendezvous this evening was Maharaja (55 Triq Ix – Xatt, Tas-Sliema SLM 1022 Malta) at 19.30. Marg and Hector arrived promptly to secure a table for six. There was space at the door which would not have been an attractive prospect given the continuing draft. The table at the Bar was rotated and seats added at both ends. Menus for six were provided. On realising that half of the tables for four were only occupied by couples, we felt crammed even before the arrival of Les Autres. Marg summoned Mein Host, another small table was added at the end of ours, much better.

Fish Vindaloo (€8.50) was my first choice due to the promise of a – hot thick … sauce. At the time of ordering, I changed my mind on realising that South Indian Fish Curry (€9.50) might be closer to a Chettinad. The only place I spotted Methi on the Menu was Methi Alu (€7.25) in the – Vegetable Garden – section. Side Dishes – it said here, the prices all reflected that of a Vegetable Main Course, there was no discount for a – Side. A somewhat pricey Paratha (€3.75) would complete Hector’s selection.

Marg said she would have Mixed Vegetable Pacoras (€4.25) if she could find someone to share it with. For her Main, Lamb Karahi (€8.75) would be accompanied by a Nan (€2.25).

Steve, Louise, Ian and Ann arrived just after 19.30 and took their places. Steve immediately remarked that he liked the prices. Indeed, the Mains were appreciably less than I had seen at Tuk Tuk (Valletta) yesterday. Ian and Ann would share Mixed Vegetable Pacoras leaving Marg to ask for Louise’s assistance. Steve and Louise decided to invest in Poppadoms (€3.00) which would come as a pair with a Pickle Tray.

Ian declared a Lamb Karahi as did Steve. I suggested to Steve that if three people were having this, it had better be good. This was sufficient motivation for Steve to change to the Bhuna Gosht (€8.75). Steve was initially concerned that their use of the term – Dry – may make it so in the extreme. I convinced him that this was most unlikely in a European Curry House. Louise chose her favoured Lamb Rogan Josh Kashmiri (€7.75), Ann opted for Butter Chicken (€8.75). Two orders of Nan and Pullao Plain (€3.00) would complete the food order, plus – a Portion of Mango Chutney please, now for the Drinks.

The fridge had Bottles of Cobra, and tins of a Pils (ugh) also Martens Gold which was brewed in Belgium. A Belgian – Supermarket Bier – I assumed, I had to try one, Steve and Louse went for Cobra. The Bier prices were not on the Menu, we established later that all Bier was €3.00. Marg asked for a 750ml Bottle of Sparkling Water (€3.00) and managed to sneak in a Glass of Mango Lassi (€3.00). Ian asked for Fresh Orange Juice, whilst Ann found a half Bottle of Red Wine (€6.75) that suited her palate: Carisimi for those who know about that sort of thing. Hector only ever orders Bier with Curry on nights out – to dine, as for Wine, I have yet to be convinced that it is compatible with Curry. Half litre Bottles of Still Water would make appearances at the far end of the end of the table as the meal progressed.

Before the Order was given, Ann wondered if I was sending this to the kitchen directly such was the thoroughness of my note taking. That day may come, the Waitress took the Order on her Pad, we still need the middle man, presently.

By 20.15, Maharaja was full. This was a Tuesday night in winter, one can only wonder what business is like here in the summer. I suspect bookings would be mandatory. Maharaja is not large, a standard shop unit in Malta, it was too busy to take photos. The décor is not OTT, one knew it was a Curry House, Bollywood Movies played incessantly. At least there was no screechy female singing, or is Hector becoming immune?

The Poppadoms were first to arrive accompanied by Lime Pickle, Mango, and Raita.
Too much salt in the Pickle – was Steve’s first take before he devoured it.
Louise added – it tastes as if it has been in the back of Grandma’s cupboard for a while.

Lime Pickle is an acquired taste.

The Pakora looked quite feeble. Seven pieces of something singular in batter. Aubergine, Onion, Paneer, and Spinach were present, a half of the Cheese Pakora came my way, it was – OK. Steve questioned if there was actually any Spice in the batter.

Ann said – the good thing is, they’re not filling, enjoyable Pakora.

A bit thin – added Ian.

Hector was happy to have basically missed out on the Starters. This was not Pakora, this is Pakora, recipe too.

Keema Naan – said the Waitress when she started bringing the Bread. Nobody had ordered one, it was placed in front of Steve and Louise. The Paratha came eventually, after everyone had received their Mains, Hector was therefore last to start eating. The Menu clearly says – Layered – in the description of Paratha. I looked and saw no layers.

The Paratha was Pale and could have done with much more firing. Soft– was the only box ticked. It was Thin, showed no sign of layering and was decidedly not Flaky. This quite simply was not a Paratha. Comparing this with the Naan showed little difference, they too were – Thin and Peely Wally. The Bread was therefore a major disappointment. The two Portions of Rice came on one platter, there was enough for everyone who desired it. Rice may well be the better option at Maharaja.

Lamb Karahi

First impressions were quite pleasing, this had the desired Thick and Minimal Masala, however, Hector spotted the – dreaded green ballast – protruding from the Curry. It was full of Capsicum and had big blobs of Onion. Marg had to admit that she had not asked for the Capsicum to be withheld as she would normally do. She hates big pieces of Onion also, how many times has she fallen foul of this? On any other day, Hector may well have been tempted by the presence of Lamb Karahi on the Menu, mine would hopefully have been served without the Ballast, – add another Vegetable, any – is the customary challenge.

There were positives, the Meat was declared Tender by both Marg and Ian. The Flavours were to their liking. A piece of Marg’s Lamb came my way, fine, more Seasoning required perhaps. The Spice Level was not a challenge.

Ian had expected his Karahi to be served in a karahi. He did accept that it may have been cooked in one. His words:

It was good, a good balance of flavours and spices. Could have had more meat than the green peppers.

That Marg left half a bowl of – Ballast – says it all.

Butter Chicken

The red tinges on the Meat made me wonder if this was Chicken Tikka. Hector had not studied the Chicken section of the Menu. This Butter Chicken looked exactly like the Curry which Hector eschews – Soup! Chicken Soup at that. Each to their own. Here was the Creamy Masala which is loved by so many, Ann included:
Superb, spicy sauce, not too creamy, fantastic, flavoursome, better than the UK.

I had to express my surprise at the latter observation, Ann toned it down quite a bit:

Helensburgh.

Lamb Rogan Josh Kashmiri

There are typically two main interpretations of Rogan Josh, the Tomato-rich version which has been around since the 1970s and the Creamy version which materialised in the last twenty years or so. This was version #3. The Brown Masala surprised, it appeared to have a reasonable level of viscosity, a marked improvement on that described immediately above. Hector would have to set the challenge – in what way was this a Rogan Josh?

Louise’s verdict:
Lacking in tomato for a Rogan Josh, a lot of aniseed flavour. The presence of Aniseed was taken to be a negative. Louise continued:
Enjoyable, and the meat was very tender.

Bhuna Gosht

This is the Curry Hector would have ordered had the Fish not been the distraction.

Here was a slightly lighter Brown Masala whose Thickness was comparable to a Rara Gosht. There was still more Masala than Hector would expect in a Bhuna, at least Steve’s fear that it may have been served – Too Dry – had been averted… as Hector predicted. Steve’s description:

Tender meat, I requested spicy and it was spicy. Aniseed flavour, which I liked, good consistency of spices.

South Indian Fish Curry

The Masala was a lighter Brown still, approaching yellow,  and as Soupy as I have sadly come to expect.  The Quantity of Fish did not initially appear to be much. As I decanted the Fish and Masala to the cool plate I accepted that the Quantity was sufficient. Normally I would have eaten straight from the bowl, but the presence of the Side Dish made this necessary.

Marg got there first and dipped some Naan in the Masala:

I think you’re going to like this – exclaimed Marg whilst I was still taking photos. It had the required – Smoky Aroma.

Methi Alu

How happy was Hector when this was placed on the table? This was most certainly amongst the most impressive sights ever, a plateful of Potato thickly coated in Herbs, Hector had his Methi. Some appeared to be cooked in, some sprinkled on top, a double whammy, Excellent. The only problem, it was not piping hot when it arrived and would cool too quickly. How I needed a tea-light heater.

The Fish was – Rubbery – as Monkfish (was it?) tends to be served. Where was the favoured Tilapia? This Curry was all about the Masala, a beautifully blended Smoky – Chettinad-flavoured – masterpiece. This was everything I did not manage to create in my own kitchen last week, or experience yesterday at Tuk Tuk (Valletta). The Menu description quoted both Coconut (Milk), which I am loath to add to a Curry, and Tamarind which I normally do. Perhaps these are the keys to the Chettinad Kingdom? Given the Soupy nature of the Masala, Rice would logically have been the more sensible accompaniment. Hector had his Methi. One could have mashed the Potato, no way, the Herb coverage was immense, let’s see it. This Aloo Methi was worth the admission price alone. When the Fish had gone the Chettinad Masala and the Methi-shrouded Potato became a Dish in its own right. It was at this point that Marg gave me two pieces of Lamb from her Karahi, there was a momentary – Lamb Chettinad. Everyone had finished, Hector was still savouring the moment. What a combination: simple Meat and Masala had been avoided, here was the confirmation regarding what is written oft in Curry-Heute, one needs an – Interesting Vegetable – to have this Quantity of Methi was simply sublime.

One likes to try new venues in the hope of discovering somewhere that truly impresses, the Chef at Maharaja had just achieved this.

Rowing Jack (Ale Browar, Polska) was calling, no time for Coffee this evening.

The Bill

€121.95 (£106.97) An astonishing €31.75 was for the Bar Bill, over €5.00 each! We were here to dine, we had.

The Aftermath

Maharaja was still very busy, I knew there would be little opperchancity for discourse with Mein Host, the Calling Card was presented. There was an appreciation that the writer of a Curry Blog was here. It was the Waitress who appeared to understand the writing on the Calling Card – Curry-Heute. Regardless of the criticisms above, the Ballast, and the Bread in particular, Hector had been served a wonderful combination of Masala and Aloo Methi, not by chance but by design. Ann came up to the counter to address Mein Host also, her appreciation of the Butter Chicken was relayed.

There may well be Curry at Maharaja for all, perhaps one should avoid the Bread presently.

Maharaja Menu Extracts

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Valletta – Tuk Tuk – South Indian Food – Chettinad Week, continued…

Posted on February 4, 2019 by Hector

It is – The February Week – for those still involved in the World of Education, that’ll be Marg and Louise. Six of us are in Malta, reunited for the first time since Madeira 2017. There is a lot of Curry to be had in Malta, unfortunately for Hector, Day 3 provided the first opperchancity to go exploring, the famous Maltese Rabbit Stew and Mediterranean Seafood having been the distractions until Curry-Heute.

Marg and Hector were on the 11.30 ferry from Sliema across to Valletta, five minutes on a boat being quite enough for Hector. As predicted, the heavens opened, we took refuge at Tuk Tuk – South Indian Food (174 Merchants St, Valletta Malta) just after their noon opening time.

Four other diners were already in situ, more would come. Tuk Tuk has twelve tables in a cavern-like room and seats around thirty. Mein Host brought the Menu. Lunch Express (€10.00) may well have been good value, however, Hector was here for one Curry only – Chettinad Lamb (€14.50). Having extolled the joy of this Curry at Banana Leaf (Glasgow) last week and then having subsequently prepared my own Chettinad Masala, the Flavours of South Indian Cuisine are very much to the fore presently in Hector’s World.

Jeera Rice (€3.70) would accompany, we agreed on – Hot – at the time of ordering for the Chettinad. Hector was sorted, Marg was less fortunate. Instead of her customary lunchtime Samosa, Marg decided upon Lamb Keema Dosa (€8.70).

We are not doing Dosa – Marg was informed.

It says until 5pm – responded Marg who would have been having a first.

Mein Host suggested Lamb Naanwich (€7.60). This was accepted. A 0.75l Bottle of Sparkling Water (€3.80) completed the Order.

This would be Hector’s first Maltese Curry since 1990 when Neil and Hector found a Curry House in Qawra/Bugibba. There will be no chance of tracking that venue down again, there are plenty in Sliema/St. Julian’s to amuse even Hector this week.

Lamb Naanwich

What a plateful, the halved Naan was stuffed with Keema, Cheese and Coleslaw, the accompanying Salad and Crisps made this very much a meal.

The inside is cold and the outside is hot – was Marg’s puzzling description.

The Naan is hot but the Keema, Cheese and Coleslaw are cold – she clarified.

I expected more Keema – she added later – I liked the Coleslaw, there was too much Bread for me, but I accept it was called a Naanwich. I am willing to try new things, but I did want a Dosa.

The next two customers that arrived also asked for – Dosa. Why have this on the Menu and not serve it?

The Jeera Rice was decanted on to the cold rectangular plate. This was a sensibly sized portion of Rice, but Chef had been a bit mean with the Cumin Seeds.

Chettinad Lamb

A sliver of something green topped the Curry, nothing I recognised. One should not take Fresh Coriander and Ginger for granted. The Thickness of the Masala took me by surprise, too many venues serve a Chettinad Masala which approaches Shorva, it does not have to be this way, Hector was already impressed. Initially I thought the Meat content was woefully lacking, the Masala had covered the Meat superbly. As each piece of Lamb was arranged over the Rice so I counted, eight was reached, seven pieces were decidedly – Large – and would have to be cut. There was most certainly enough Meat present to justify the price.

The Quantity of Masala was sufficient for the accompanying Rice, there was no needless excess. At last, a Chettinad that was not Soup.

The Spice hit the palate instantly as did the lack of Seasoning. I waited for the anticipated – Chettinad Smokey – Flavours to emerge, they didn’t. Where were the customary Dark Red Chillies?

The texture of the Meat was Excellent, Tender Lamb, suitably Soft and giving off the distinctive Flavour of Lamb. But that was it, the Meat was giving back no more.

As I ate on, I released I was still hoping for more. The cold plate meant that the meal was cooling rapidly. There was no – Jeera Blast – from the remaining Rice. This was no more than a Competent Curry, I have to ask – in what way was this a Chettinad?

Marg decided to order House Chai (€1.60) without Sugar. It was still pouring outside, we were in no hurry to depart, good move. On its arrival, Marg was immediately impressed by the aroma of Cardamom. She enjoyed her Tea, for Hector it resembled a West Coast Milky IPA in terms of appearance. Each to their own.

The Bill

€31.20 (£27.37) Malta feels less expensive than it was before they joined the Euro.

The Aftermath

I gave the Calling Card to the Chap who cleared the table, he summoned – the Man in charge. I gave my usual spiel and showed Mein Host the Chettinad Masala I had prepared a few days ago. I have to admit that I did not attain the desired level of – Smokiness – but Marg confirmed there was some, today, none. Mein Host mentioned the term – Fusion – more than once in the ensuing conversation. Once more we have a Curry House which is serving Indian Food as they think the – Westerners – desire it. Hopefully I made it clear that if people choose to dine at an Indian Restaurant, then genuine Indian Cuisine is what they should be served, not some random derivative. Mein Host said that they are planning a – refurbishment – of the Menu in the middle of the year. I suggested that they should have Desi/Apna Dishes available.

In the meantime, if anyone is in München (Deutschland), then surely the finest Lamb Chettinad on the planet is to be found – here.

Tuk Tuk Menu extracts

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Hector prepares a Chettinad Masala, then cooks…twice.

Posted on January 31, 2019 by Hector

Since the first dry fried Masala experience at the Lighthouse Hotel (Galle, Sri Lanka) back in 2003, Hector has been fascinated by this alternative to the Punjabi Cuisine which prevails in the West of Scotland. Indian Mango (München) sets the standard for Lamb/Fish Chettinad which has not been equalled in all my travels. Aberdeen’s – Rishi’s Indian Aroma – was my first recorded encounter of Chettinad in the UK, but theirs is a very Soupy Curry when it doesn’t have to be.

Having consulted a few sources, Ajwain/Aniseed/Carom Seeds appeared to be a crucial addition to Hector’s spice cupboard. The purchase of these plus Smoked Dried Prawns and Dried Red Chillies were sufficient motivation to have a go.

Chettinad Masala

Approximately a tablespoon of each of the following were combined: Cumin Seeds, Fennel Seeds, Ajwain/Aniseed/Carom Seeds, Star Anise, Coriander Seeds, Pepper Corns, Cloves, Green Cardamom, Curry Leaves, Mustard Seeds, Turmeric, and Onion Seeds. A handful of Dry Red Chillies and four pieces of Cinnamon Bark were also added. The mix was dry fried, with care. Experiments in the past have taught me that one does not go too far else all turns to Carbon in a flash. The resulting smoke is intolerable. The Smoked Prawns were added to the above and everything was ground. Such was the quantity of Masala created, this may be making regular appearances in the months to come.

The Base Masala

An Onion and Tomato Base Sauce was created as has been recorded many times in these pages, the Recipe is here. After a good half hour to create the Masala Mash the Spices were added. I was out of Smoked Paprika – oops – and so added some Chilli Flakes to the Chettinad Masala.  Instinct told me there had to be Lemon Juice.

Hector is never going to make a Soupy Masala, even when adding some Water to stave off any chance of the Masala burning, I saw it reduce surprisingly quickly.  In keeping with British Indian Restaurant Curry, the Mash was blended.

Most of the cooked Chettinad Masala was set aside for another day, time to add the Meat. Here was a cheat, I had a good portion of slow cooked Leg of Lamb left over from a previous meal. Yes, Hector even eats Lamb when it is not in a Curry. The Lamb had been roasted in Garlic and Herbs, the pedigree was there.

Even more Water was added to the mix, again it quickly reduced. One day there will be a Shorva served at Hector’s House, not tonight.

Lamb Chettinad

Visually, this was most pleasing: a Thick Masala and not excessive. The Flavours were recognisably more complex than anything I have ever previously cooked, but where was the – Smokiness? It was there, just, subtle. The Spice Level had been deliberately set to – Medium – as I intend to use this Masala for the foreseeable. The Seasoning was as Hector tends to serve – Khara!

Tasty as the Lamb was, there was no denying that the Meat and Masala were strangers until recently. The Lamb held its own, as is already written, this was Quality Lamb.

Meat, Masala, Rice, perhaps I should have added an Interesting Vegetable. I ate on, wondering how much I should congratulate myself. I was thoroughly enjoying this and was looking forward to next time – Fish Chettinad.

So, the time after next

Perhaps I could dry fry the Chettinad Masala once again, add more Dry Red Chillies and Smoked Dried Prawns? Cococnut Milk may make an appearance. I could resort to buying a packet of Chettinad Mix.

Marg returned from work having had consecutive after-work commitments. Two on the same night, who planned this? She had missed dinner, what could I rustle up?

Vegetable Chettinad

I grabbed some Courgette, Peas and a Carrot, a Stir Fry was underway. Two dessert spoons of the cooked Chettinad Masala and some Water were added. There was leftover Rice. Behold, a Curry!

As is Marg’s norm, the first mouthful was greeted with the usual protest – Spicy!

That is not Spicy – was my emphatic reply.

This was accepted, Marg then went to comment about the Oil, however, this was from the Stir Fry element, not the Masala. Every morsel was eaten, Marg enjoyed her Impromptu Curry, she thought it tasted – Smokey.  

Posted in Hector's Cooking | 2 Comments

Glasgow – Banana Leaf – Posh Surroundings, Modest Establishment

Posted on January 30, 2019 by Hector

Tomorrow night will see Hector create a mass of Chettinad Masala with the view to cooking a Lamb Chettinad initially. With the taste of Chettinad firmly planted in the mind, the autopilot took Hector to Banana Leaf (76B, Old Dumbarton Rd, Glasgow, G3 8RE) this afternoon. In November, Banana Leaf was found to be closed on a Saturday afternoon, Hector ended up across the street at Shah’s Kitchen. Mein Host assured me today that Banana Leaf is open every day except Tuesday around noon, though sometimes it is later when he has to go and shop.

Thanks for coming – was the unusual greeting from Mein Host as I entered, one expects this as a farewell. At 16.00, Hector was the Lone Diner. I took the middle table, the most comfortable of the three. In the overflow room next door all the chairs were still piled high.  One day I’ll get to sit in the big room.

Lamb Chettinadu with inclusive Rice (£7.99) plus a Paratha (£1.50) was the Order. This Curry needs Rice, or does it? One could easily have two Parathas. They may tick all the boxes, however, the Parathas at Banana Leaf are decidedly small, but perfectly formed.

I lost track of time whilst I waited. The wait was not a long one. The Rice serving was Sensible, a plateful, no more. I looked at the Curry, this was far from my normal Punjabi Cuisine.

Lamb Chettinadu

Seven good sized pieces of Meat were arranged on top of the Rice. I took around half of the Blended, Soupy Masala and smothered the Lamb. I had to start by dipping Paratha into the Shorva. Mmmmm – all expectations were satisfied. The South Indian Smoky Flavour came across immediately, success. The Spice and Seasoning were both exactly as I would desire them – testing, Peppery. When I make my own Chettinad Masala, I will not be holding back on the Peppercorns.

The Meat was firm but Tender. The sense of the Meat belonging to the Masala varied. Initially the Lamb appeared to have absorbed the Flavours from the Masala, latterly, this was lost. When Chefs count out the Meat, do they take some from the top of the pot, and some from the bottom?

Next time, I’ll splash out and order a Vegetable accompaniment. This Chettinad was very much just Meat and Masala, but the Masala packed so much Flavour. I should eat this more often. Tomorrow!

The Bill

£9.49    A modest price for a proper feed.

The Aftermath

Did you enjoy? – asked Mein Host.

Yes, always. I’ll need to try the Fish, do you do Fish Chettinadu? (knowing full well it is not on the Menu, why?)

No Prawn and Chicken.

He mentioned the Fish Moilee, I was sold on this, next time.

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Manchester – Chappati Corner – Rice & 3 Curry

Posted on January 25, 2019 by Hector

Today Hector completed the visits to the three Curry Cafes clustered on this block on Cheetham Hill Road. Chappati Corner (150-152 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester, England M8 8PZ) is very much the smaller of the three and shares an address with Apna Lahori Kebabish next door. Steve had walked out with me, I took him to Lahori Badsha where I had a truly wonderful Curry two days ago. This meant I have seen Zak on three days this week, hopefully he will remember me when I return in March.

Introductions made, I departed and walked the few metres to Chappati Corner, maybe there is no correct spelling of – Chapatti.

The place felt a bit cramped and was not helped by the fact they have essentially the same furniture as is found in the Northern Quarter’s – Kabana. Ironically, the Kabana across the street from Chappati Corner has the same better suited furniture as found at Al-Faisal Tandoori.

An illuminated sign that I had previously seen from the street proudly displayed the option for – Rice & 3 Curry. I like the deliberate singularity. A handwritten sign behind the counter informed me that Today’s Special was Chicken Biryani. On Wednesdays it’s Anda Kofta, a particular favourite and not available often enough.

The queue of three seemed to fill the room. Rice & 3 Curry (£6.00) permits choices of two Meat and one Vegetable. The kettles were all covered so the serving Chap had to recite what was on offer. There had to be Lamb, I asked for Lamb on-the-bone. Aloo Keema and Aloo Gobi were the next selections. The Chap covered the plate with a generous serving of Rice then proceeded to arrange my choices, this was an impressive quantity of food for six quid. What a plateful! He sprinkled a Soupçon of Fresh Coriander and sliced Green Chillies on top, no forest of Herbs here. I paid.

I managed to squeeze myself on to a seat at the window. The Chap who I had seen yesterday as I waited for Apna Lahori Kebabish to open was out clearing tables. This improved the ambience, marginally. Basic as this Curry Cafe was, it was by far the busiest of the three venues on this side of the street.

Lamb on-the-bone

The first mouthful impressed, this was Curry! The Meat was Soft and was full of Flavour. Masala? I had to look for it. There was enough to cover the Meat, no more, perfect. This could have been served as Karahi Gosht. This was as good as anywhere I have been to in the Northern Quarter, as good as Kabana.

The Spice was there, the added Chillies enhanced this. The remarkable Seasoning was complemented by a slightly burnt taste, this Curry was simply an absolute joy to experience. The two Chaps who sat next to me each had platefuls of this Lamb Curry, they knew.

Aloo Keema

There was no way that this could be as intense as what I had just sampled. With no Masala and no Oil, this would have been better eaten with a Chapatti. Dry, Earthy, I noted with a decent Kick. The Seasoning was well down in this Curry. The Potato content was enough to satisfy the – Aloo Keema – label.

Aloo Gobi

This was a Mash, and a pretty bland one at that. One assumes that this was how it was intended. Vegetables as part of any Curry are always a bonus. I forgave the two large pieces of Red Capsicum that had somehow sneaked into the Aloo Gobi.

The diversity on this plate was testimony to that which sums up Manchester Curry – Rice and 3.

I never fail to be amazed at the Quality of Curry served in such modest venues. This has been quite a week, my very favourite – Dera – to kick things off on arrival, then three new to Curry-Heute – Curry Cafes, each serving quite distinct Curry.

The Aftermath

I was about to simply leave the Calling Card on the table, the Chaps serving were always busy. As I finished I spotted a gap. I had seen possibly four different people taking turns to serve, this Chap had the air of being Mein Host. On accepting the Calling Card he gave me permission to photograph the various Dishes, the covers were off simultaneously, something I bet does not happen often at Chappati Corner.

I went back to Lahori Badsha to collect Steve. He had just finished and was well impressed by their Lamb Curry. Knowing that it’s only an extra ten minute walk from Ancoats, I trust he will return.

It was at the end of last year when Rizwan told me about the second Kabana. Google Maps have it as open on a Saturday which the original premises are not. My plan this week was therefore to finally have a Saturday Kabana Curry. I went across to check.

The Chap on the tables told me – Sunday. Rizwan later confirmed this by text. I could have been here today had I known this.

Three days ago I wrote about the five Curry Houses in this cluster on Cheetham Hill Road. It appears that the nearby Alif Grill (105 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester, England M8 8PY) also serves Curry, and despite its name – Kebabish Grill & Steakhouse (170-172 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester, England M8 8LQ) which is a block further north does so too. That makes eight venues that I know of. Cheetham Hill, Manchester’s #2 Curry Mile, and way better than #1, Hector has not been down to Rusholme for years and after this week’s experiences, is unlikely to do so.

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Manchester – delhi2go – Hector, Patron of the Arts, is summoned

Posted on January 25, 2019 by Hector

I have been trying to behave this week. Only on Wednesday have I succumbed to a late night feast at delhi2go (119 Oldham St., Manchester M4 1LN England). Howard left the Crown and Kettle to fetch a Takeaway for himself and Tracey. He was recognised as being a friend of Hector at delhi2go. He returned to the Crown and Kettle to inform me that one of the staff had asked – if Hector was in the vicinity. I guessed this would be Mian, Mein Host, whom I had missed on Wednesday. Howard said he desired to see me but warned the he might out doing deliveries.

I dragged myself the short distance down Oldham Street to delhi2go, Mohamed was serving, I said I had been summoned, he looked puzzled. Mian appeared and was very pleased to see me. Hector rated a hug. Unfortunately we didn’t get much of a chance to talk, he was off out again. I used the valuable moments to tell him that which I desired to regarding my visit two weeks ago. Now he knows, and Mohamed has it sorted.

The Chap sitting minding his own business was caught apparently minding his own business, or maybe he wasn’t.

So, Hector finds himself in a Curry House. A second, or even third Curry in one day is not unknown in these pages. What the hell, Lamb Chops (£5.50) are great value here. I have recently seen over £12.00 being charged for five Lamb Chops.

There are Four Chops

I was convinced there five Chops when I took the photo, there were only four bones at the end. The Downsman (Crawley) and Akbar’s (Glasgow) serve the best Lamb Chops I have ever encountered, these were not far behind. Cremated – as I had asked, well marinaded, Spicy, Succulent, full of Flavour. I thoroughly approve of the new Meat supplier at delhi2go.

The Aftermath

The Chap in the photo brought a piece of card to the table. To quote one of my favourite Captain Picard lines – Oh, it’s me.

The Lamb Chops suddenly cost more than I had envisaged.

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Manchester – Apna Lahori Kebabish – Take Me Home, Country Bone

Posted on January 24, 2019 by Hector

It is day three of Hector’s Curry extravaganza on Cheetham Hill Rd. Arriving at Apna Lahori Kebabish (150-152 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester, England M8 8PZ) moments before noon, the shutters were only half open. A Chap from Chappati Corner next door battered on the shutter, open sesame, Hector was in.

Are you open?– was a somewhat rhetorical question.

I was informed by the only Chap seemingly on the premises that there were no staff, I would have to wait ten to fifteen minutes. I took a seat – I’ll wait.

There was plenty of time to take in the surroundings. Six booths each sat about six people, seven at a squeeze. As is the norm in Curry Cafes, the décor was simple.

More staff arrived, the original Chap was busy cleaning the steel trays which would house the prepared Curry. At 12.20 a Chap I hadn’t spotted brought the Menu. For the sake of consistency and comparison, it had to be Punjabi Gosht (£6.49). The Waiter confirmed that this would be on-the-bone. A Naan (£0.75) would accompany.

Just one? Yes.

I was left to wonder why the same Dish served Boneless was only £6.00. More Meat, a smaller price? That the Fish Curry Masala was also £6.00 impressed, too many venues charge a shocking amount for Fish. How can a Fish Curry be more expensive than Meat?

Yet another Chap brought a jug of water and a Modest Salad with Sauces. The latter looked more appropriate for Burgers which are also served here.

Punjabi Gosht

The Masala was closer to Shorva than one would expect, each to their own interpretation. The Topping was Minimal, just a sprinkling of Fresh Coriander. In the Northern Quarter once can help oneself to Coriander, Ginger and Chillies, not here then.

The Naan again did not look like the standard Naan cooked in a Tandoor. The holes suggested that this had been cooked on a Tawa, the Bread had not risen, no puffiness, no burnt bits. This Bread felt closer to a Pitta than a Naan, not the best.

I counted the Meat, well into double figures. Offal, came to mind, the fatty sinews had been left attached to quite a few pieces. I could have used the provided knife and fork to remove these, I ate with the spoon. The first dip of Bread revealed a very Powerful Flavour, and not one of this era. This Masala took me right back to the 1960s, one does not encounter this too often. The Spice Level was certainly adequate, the Seasoning was at the – Brave – end of the spectrum, this I liked, a lot. The Meat was very Soft, this Curry looked nothing like my usual Karahi Gosht, this was an old fashioned Lamb Curry, what we grew up with. What the…? A piece of Meat shocked the palate, Kidney. How did that get in there? Was this deliberate or an oversight.? Either way, this was a first. I studied the fatty connectors, the back side of the ribs had quite a bit of this. Some looked tubular, Offal?

Towards the base of the karahi, the Masala was decidedly Thicker, then I realised this was actually Meat Pulp and very rich in Flavour it was too. A small piece of Cinnamon Bark must have added to this.   The Bone count reached three plus a fragment.  The presence of Bones is always associated with more Homely Flavours, Desi.

The Bread disappointed, this Curry would have been much better eaten with Rice which I did not see on the Menu. Quirkiness and Shorva apart, this was a memorable Curry, the Flavours were intense, I would certainly have this again.

Whilst I ate, the prepared Curry had been set out. Why put this out so late? They have missed many potential lunchtime customers.

The Bill

£7.25 One cannot complain about the price.

The Aftermath

I introduced myself in the normal manner. The Chap who was clearly in charge instantly warmed to my presence. He smiled when I described the Curry as taking me back in time. He summoned the rest of the staff for a photo.

You are very welcome to come – were his parting words.

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Manchester – Lahori Badsha – Cheetham Hill, Manchester’s Curry Mile #2?

Posted on January 23, 2019 by Hector

The mission for the rest of this Manchester Trip was declared yesterday on the walk up Cheetham Hill Road, to visit the venues which make up this cluster of five Curry Houses which operate within metres of each other, quite a cluster. Five? I failed to spot Bukhara yesterday as it was far too big, crazy. I suspect it is part of a chain and therefore there’s no rush. Meanwhile, Lahori Badsha (140 Cheetham Hill Rd, Manchester, England M8 8PZ) was the first venue encountered yesterday, the young Chap behind the counter was welcoming, I said I would be back.

Arriving at 14.15 I found one Diner finishing his lunch. The same Chap behind the counter raised his eyebrows in acknowledgement as I took a seat well away from the door. Another Chap brought the Menu. Daily Special, Lunch Offers, Curry Of The Day,  Karahi is only sold by the Kilo.  Lamb Chops, £5.50 for five.  Where to begin?

I decided upon Aloo Gosht (£4.99), the Menu made no mention of  Rice, the Lunch Offers included two Roti, so this appeared to be the way. Chap #2 came to take the Order, Aloo Gosht was not available, he offered Keema. Whilst I have no problems with Keema, if I was going to judge this venue, then a Masala had to be obtained. When I asked what was available, he sought Chap #1 who rhymed off Lamb Curry, Chicken… Lamb Curry (£6.50) it would be, plus a Chapatti (£0.50).

*

Lahori Badsha has four long tables (which could be split) each seating eight. This is another Curry Cafe where one always hopes to find – Simple – and sometimes – Outstanding – Fayre. Chap #2 brought a glass and plate followed by a Jug of Water. A Salad and Raita came next, I started to nibble. The wait for the Mains was not long.

The Roti was of the – Wholemeal – variety. Large, it was Hot, Soft and took quite a time to show signs of crisping. No way would I finish this.

Lamb Curry

The peripheral Oil immediately caught the eye, was this a Shorva? Buried beneath the Toppings of Fresh Coriander, Ginger Strips and copious slices of Green Chillies, was a very impressive Thick Masala. Indeed, it looked remarkably similar to that presented last night at Dera, it may well have been Tomato-based.

I counted the Meat into double figures, this Lamb Curry was on-the-bone. The Pedigree was staring me in the face.

The Curry was Hot, the Flavours were realised in an instant, the Meat was delightfully Soft but still far from Pulp. Lahori Badsha, another Curry-Heute find, a purveyor of Worthy Curry.

I had too close an encounter with the largest Black Cardamom ever seen. Cloves became prominent when I tackled a piece of Meat on-the-bone. The Meat and Peppery Masala belonged together, not the too often encountered – quick match.

Chap #2 brought another Roti and arranged it under the first. I had to ask him to take it away. Whilst it would have been tempting to start on another Hot, Fresh Roti, this would have been a total waste. Hopefully it went to a good stomach.

I was approaching the end, three Bones was the count, I had eaten enough Lamb for today. Hopefully somewhere will have Fish waiting for me this week. I did see the Fish on display and wondered how it was served. The TV was on the wall behind me, the walls were otherwise bare. Just what is available here and when?

The Bill

£7.00     50p for a Roti, £1.00 for a Naan. Is anyone in Aberdeen reading this?

The Aftermath

I gave the Calling Card to Chap #1 who I deduced was Mein Host. This was Zak.

You didn’t eat very much – Zak remarked – most people can do two Chapattis.

On asking if I could take some photos, he arranged a whole Chicken on a plate. They are evidently proud of their Chicken. Despite eschewing Chicken Curry, Chicken served in this manner is more akin to Nando’s which of course Hector is very partial to.

Zak offered to provide an array of their Specials on my next visit. I may well take him up on this. Hector will next be back in Manchester in the middle of March.

I noted the time and walked back to Ancoats Travelodge, thirteen minutes at Hector’s pace.

Now for a Beer Festival.

The Menu

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