Curry-Heute

Bradford – Sheesh Mahal – First Curry of 2017

Posted on January 2, 2017 by Hector

It has been brought to Hector’s notice that the Curry House Chaps of Bradford have been enquiring as to my whereabouts of late. Why is it before I retired I was in The Curry Capital more frequently? This had to be rectified, today.

Our Rendezvous with The Man from Bradford, aka – The Rickmeister – was at 13.00. That the chosen venue was the Sheesh Mahal (6 St. Thomas’ Rd, Bradford, BD1 2RW) was never contested. Sadly we were delayed by an hour due to a rather nasty RTA on the M1 at Meadowhall. Ricky was collected from his Castle, Marg gave up the front seat, Craig and Yvonne had to breath in. The Passat felt more sluggish suddenly trying to cope with the Hills of Bradford.

No Taj, no Omar, no Sadaqat, The Rickmeister informed me that the Young Chap on duty is another Son of Taj. I was not known.

Starters were the last thing I had in mind today, just bring me the Bradford Curry. However, when Craig announced he was having Seekh Kebabs (£2.70), there had to be Lamb Chops (£4.90). It has been a while, it appears – The Appetite – has returned.

Whilst we considered the Mains, the table was covered in Salads, Poppadoms and Dips. Marg asked for some Mango Chutney, no £1.50 surcharge here as was the case in – The Last Curry of 2016. This is Bradford.

When Omar or Sadaqat are on duty, I normally have a Lamb on-the-bone Hector Curry. Today I though I had better play safe and order from the Menu. I note the prices have been static since the rebuild. Lamb Balti (on Bone) (£9.50) was Hector’s choice, extra Methi was secured when the Son of Taj noted the order. Marg has been eating Mince of late due to an ongoing dental problem. Omar Kayham (£8.95) was better described as – Keema, Peas, Potatoes. Ricky also chose an exotic Curry – Mughal-e-azam (£8.95), or – Meat with Spinach and Lentils. Kabuli Balti (£8.95), what’s going on here? Craig’s Balti would have – Chicken and Chickpeas. Chana Murgh – in Glasgow. Yvonne chose the more straightforward Prawn Rogan Josh (£8.75).

Marg asked for – one Chapatti – to accompany. Ricky pointed out – You get three. Here one finds the joy of Dining in Bradford. Excepting the Pukka Houses with tablecloths, Roti, Chapatti, Naan, or Rice is included in the price. If one wishes more than one option then a modest charge is made, e.g. 30p for an extra Chapatti. Craig and Yvonne went for Rotis, Hector and Marg, Chapattis, Ricky a Naan. Sorted. Time to get back to the Salad et al before the arrival of the Starters. Meanwhile The Rickmeister challenged Hector to identify the obscure names on the Menu:

Machlee – Rainbow Trout

Ojree – Okra with Yoghurt

Magaz – Seeds (most likely to be Watermelon)

Kalegey – Liver (Kaleji)

Shai Dhall – Mixed Lentils

Ricky and Hector have enjoyed Brains and Testicles at the Sheesh Mahal. I didn’t enjoy Liver, as I never do, though Ricky and Dr. Stan thought it was great. No Tripe?

From the moment Craig tasted his first slice of Seekh Kebab (no photo!) he was in raptures. Despite being – Spicy – he was thoroughly enjoying his selection. Ricky reckons the Seekh Kebabs served at Sheesh Mahal are the best, anywhere. I have a Recipe, acquired during my Curry Course; one day I might even get around to posting it.

Five Lamb Chops for £4.90. The Chops were Substantial. Served on a Sizzling Iron Platter with a Bed of Onions, this was the Perfect way to kick off 2017. Suddenly I was down to Four Chops, Marg felt an entitlement. During this, the photo opperchancity for the Seekh Kebab escaped. The Spice was Magnificent, the Seasoning even more-so. One could be tempted to come here and just dine on Lamb Chops ad nauseam. Lamb Chops Tikka Balti (£9.50) will have to be tried, maybe next month.

The Mains were offered as Craig and Hector completed the Starters. Marg asked for another five minutes, the Lady’s wish was granted.

Omar Kayham

Mince, Peas, and Potatoes, Marg’s Favourite Dinner, with or without that which turns it into Curry.

Very tasty, a good kick, and I even managed to eat all the Potatoes.

Prawn Rogan Josh

Yvonne has not eaten much in the last few days due to an – ongoing lurgy – hence her quote:

Lovely, just what the doctor ordered. I wanted something with sauce and a bite.

Mughal-e-azam

The Spinach and Lentils were well within the mix, a Dish Hector will have to try. Ricky has probably been round the entire Menu at Sheesh Mahal, one could not forget the first time he sampled – Brains.

Simply the best – was his modest contribution.

Kabuli Balti

The name suggests an Afghanistan influence, a feature which made The Hector take special note. However, Chicken and Chickpeas do not float Hector’s Boat. Craig had other thoughts. If his Seekh Kebab impressed, this Balti raised his Level of Satisfaction to further heights. Craig was giving almost a running commentary on the extent to which he was enjoying being at Sheesh Mahal and eating this Dish in particular. He was hungry, he must have been to manage the Starter, finish his own, then sweep up the remnants of Yvonne’s Prawn Rogan Josh.

Absolutely Superb. First class Curry here.

You know what’s coming

Lamb Balti (on Bone) with extra Methi

The Bradford Taste was in Hector’s face from the off, this is why I come here, such a unique experience. Two features of this Curry spoiled Hector’s day. The Lamb Balti was lacking in Seasoning, significantly. This was almost enough to spoil this Dish, the second criticism nearly pushed Hector over the edge. Capsicum, since when did Sheesh Mahal Chefs add this Ballast? The Offending Vegetable was fished out. Back to the positives. The Spice Level Satisfied, the Meat was Excellent. As Craig and Yvonne ate heartily with knives and forks, so Hector, Chapatti in hand – ate properly. Bones were gnawed, cast aside, Pleasure resurrected. Despite that which made this well short of Perfection, still not too shabby.

Marg and Hector managed only three of the six Chapattis which were served. Ricky advised Craig and Yvonne they should eat the centre of their Rotis, as the edges would crisp, they did. Some venues do not differentiate between Chapattis and Rotis and try to pass them off as the same thing. They are not, IMHO, Chapattis win every time.

Marg lent across the table, napkin in hand. The Face of Hector was unceremoniously wiped. That was how to eat Curry. I need to create a bond with The Son of Taj to guarantee that a Hector Curry is served next time.

The Bill

£53.40. Did The Rickmeister subsequently ask for the CAMRA Discount? Would he ever admit it if he did?

The Aftermath

And so to Manchester, the first of two January Trips, an Opperchancity to visit Favourite Venues and try new ones.

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Glasgow – Kebabish Grill – Last Curry of 2016

Posted on December 30, 2016 by Hector

It is approaching five years since Hector last set foot in Kebabish Grill (323–325 Victoria Road, Glasgow, G42 7SA), Competent Curry, nothing outstanding – may be the conclusion for last time, else I would have been back sooner. Due to the Diary being full this week, Mother’s fortnightly shopping trip had to be today. Passing a closed Yadgar en route to Lidl, I realised that Friday lunchtime is not the best time of week to visit the Curry Cafes on Glasgow’s Southside.

Kebabish Grill is directly across from, Lidl, shopping completed, there was still time in the permitted ninety minutes to have Curry. Being the Festive Season, Marg was accompanying, across we went.

Greeted at the door by the Head Waiter on duty, we were taken to the rear of the raised seating area and sat at the table nearest those already present. This is clearly what they do here, bunch everyone up. Menus were brought, my Fellow Diners ignored them, too busy chatting.

Desi Karahi Gosht (on the bone) (£9.85) would be Hector’s choice, the usual caveats permitted. With no Paratha spotted, Garlic and Coriander Nan (£2/95) would accompany. Mother keeps things simple, Lamb Curry (£7.95) and Boiled Rice (£2.50) should satisfy as long as the Plate comes Hot and there is a Side of Mango Chutney. Not too much Rice – pleaded The Mother. You’ll get what they give you – was The Hector reply. Some venues serve what could be considered to be Half Portions, others give a Quantity to match the price. On my last visit I was left with Half a Mountain. Marg considered the Karela Gosht until I informed her that this is what I had last time and found the Karela to be Excessive and too Large. Lamb Muglia (Mughlai surely?) Masala (£8.95) and Pilau Rice (£2.75) became Marg’s selection, washed down with a Glass of Mango Lassi (£2.50). Hector was happy to stick to the customary Sparkling Water.

Now to ensure that the Karahi would be served as expected of a Desi. I asked the Waiter if Capsicum would be present, he said they were in the Sauce. I was then asked if I was allergic to Capsicum – only in terms of how angry the presence of this Ballast makes me. No Capsicum – was noted.

The – Foreword – in the Menu makes it clear that Kebabish Grill is an Independent Operation and is therefore not associated with the Chain of similar name. They also claim to have the largest open grill in Scotland. One has to pass the preparation area at the door, it would be good to be able to hang around here and watch The Chaps in action. Our Waiter presented two Dips and a Salad, Olives! I wondered how I had ended up with Olives last time here. Marg and I devoured the Olives, Mother swiped the Lemon Slice, the Dips remained untouched.

The Plates were set before us, they were Hot, Mother’s Test #1 had been passed. The Desi Karahi Gosht – without Capsicum – and Lamb Curry made their appearance along with the Garlic and Coriander Naan. The Lamb Muglia Masala followed, but no Rice. Hector was waiting for no-one.

Desi Karahi Gosht

The Desi Karahi Gosht looked Spectacular and was reminiscent of that served at Cafe Salma once upon a time. The Lamb was mostly cut – Small – with a Variety of Bones. Breaking the Bread, I could not help but feel how Cold the underside of the Naan was. The melted Garlic Butter may be Hot, I persevered. The Naan again looked the part, a Sensible Size, Rich in appearance, not too Thick. After a mouthful or two I knew I could not continue. I summoned our Chap and invited him to touch my Naan (calm!). Without challenge the offending Naan was taken away. By now the two Rice Portions had arrived along with a Dip-sized Bowl of Mango Chutney. The Ladies were in their element.

Lamb Curry

The Lamb Curry was a Classic – Meat served in a Thin-ish Masala. This is what The Mother of Hector served from the early 1960s, what I was raised on. The Boiled Rice was enough for two, Mother scraped off the top, leaving still enough for two. Perhaps I need to find a venue which serves Pensioners’ Portions, only half of the Lamb Curry was consumed, too much for an Octogenarian, or did Mother have a cunning plan? I helped myself to a piece of Meat, by now both Marg and Mother had commented favourably on the tenderness of the Lamb. Tender indeed, however, the Lamb Curry was not Complex enough for Hector’s Palate. Still, Mother was in raptures:

I enjoyed it very much, the best Curry I have had in a long time. Tender Lamb, hot plates, Mango on the side.

A Takeaway was arranged with leftovers, tomorrow’s Dinner for Mother taken care of.

Lamb Muglia

The Lamb Muglia (Mughlai) Masala was topped with a layer of almonds. Beneath was a most acceptably Dry Masala. Once more, Marg had a Mountain of what looked like Brown Rice, it wasn’t. Observing my notes, she disagreed that she had – hardly touched it – we agree that half was left, enough for two then. And so the lesson has been learned, at Kebabish Grill, share a Rice. No Sample came my way, we have to accept Marg’s verdict:

A rich flavour, very tender Lamb, a pleasant change.

Desi Karahi Gosht

The Replacement Naan arrived before The Hector felt he had been abandoned, much Better, so no further complaints, this happens. The Cafe Salma Similarity was by now well implanted in Hector’s mind, the Masala was identical and more than necessary. Tomato-rich, I had to pick out small pieces of Red and Green Capsicum, this is what was meant by – in the sauce. The objection to Capsicum, apart from being used as Ballast, is that it spoils the Flavour and lingers long after the completion of the Dish. There was not a Whole Lotta Flavour from this Desi Karahi, the Seasoning was well under, how different it could have been. The Spice Level was well within acceptable Parameters.

In discussion with The Locals around Govanhill over the years, Kebabish Grill rates highly. I felt it similar to my Kabana visits, another supposedly rated venue, it didn’t have the – Wow – but still authentic Desi Cuisine.

Mother’s Takeaway sorted, she announced she would have been happy to sit here all day. Marg mentioned Coffee, Hector was on a time limit.

The Bill

£40.85. This included a charge of £1.50 for the Tiniest Portion of Mango Chutney.

The Aftermath

No Calling Card was left, they have had one. I did ask permission to photograph the Cooking Area at the door, this does impress.

Ten minutes over the allotted ninety in the car park, just how pernickety are the administrators? Just ‘cos they have power doesn’t mean they have the right. The New Year may get off to a bad start.

Update – November 30th, 2017

Kebabish goes on fire. The South Side loses another venue.

Posted in Kebabish Grill | 2 Comments

Aberdeen – Lahore Karahi – Impresses again

Posted on December 27, 2016 by Hector

Are they open? – asked Marg as we headed off to pick up Sandy and Tracey.

I assume so, I’ll phone.

And so Lahore Karahi (145 King St, Aberdeen, AB24 5AE) was phoned, how often does one use one’s Moby as a phone? The call was answered, it was established that they were not busy, a table was booked for 19.30 regardless. Knowing that Lamb on-the-bone is available with an hour’s notice, The Hector thought this a good Opperchancity to raise the topic. Should I order now? I was assured all would be possible when we reached the Restaurant.

The Four Diners of the Curryopolis entered just before 19.30 to find the place empty. The optimum table was chosen, adjacent to where Marg and Hector had observed all the Shenanigans on our last visit earlier this year.

Menus were provided, were these new? I checked the price of a Tandoori Roti, still £1.20, there is a Sanity Clause. Hector has yet to have Lamb Karahi on-the-bone at this venue. I really should present, make my order, then return the next day. When it came my turn, I showed photos of Yadgar’s – Goshat Karahi. Does your Karahi have big chunks of Onion and Capsicum? I was assured not. Can you make it with the Minimal Masala as shown here? Sadly, the Waiter admitted theirs would be – more Soupy. It was suggested I should have phoned it in. One day.

On my last visit, the Methi Gosht (£8.45) impressed, as did a near Perfect – Keema Paratha. The Curry-Heute Test is always – can this be repeated? However, The Hector still had Lamb on-the-bone in mind, it was in the Restaurant, let me at it.

Is Methi Gosht available on-the-bone? The Waiter went to check, all was well.

With Extra Methi and Spicy please. Sorted. Oh, and a Keema Paratha (£3.50).

The Menu says – Keema Aloo or Peas. Last time we persuaded them to give Marg Keema Aloo Mutter. Ironically, Marg found the Potatoes to be – too much. Tonight it would be Keema Mutter. A Chapatti was asked for, I reminded Marg that Tandoori Roti (£1.20) is what was on offer.

Sandy had made his mind up quickly – Bhindi Gosht (£8.50) with an Onion Kulcha (£2.50) to accompany. Tracey had been taking her time. Chicken Chilli Masala ((£7.95) with a Tandoori Paratha (£2.50) completed the Order.

As we waited, so two other couples arrived. One placed a Bottle of Wine on the table. I do not know what the corkage fee is, if any. Sandy had hoped for Lager of some description, Marg offered to go out to the car and bring in a Bottle of Wine. The Chaps settled for Tap Water. It is about time they had Sparkling Water here.

A Colourful Salad was placed mid-table, a welcome gesture. Four Hot Plates were then set before us, I could bring The Mother here. The Mains arrived soon after.

The Methi Gosht came first, it looked the part, Fresh Methi strewn through the Masala, this had the potential to be Great. The Keema Mutter was as Dry as it should be served. Sandy’s Bhindi Gosht impressed superficially, however, when he decanted the contents to his plate, I worried that the ratio of Okra to Lamb was weighed excessively towards the Vegetable. The Chicken Chilli Masala was all that The Hector would avoid. As is seen, even the Camera protested at having to photograph this Chicken Curry.

Methi Gosht on-the-bone

From the first taste there was a Blast of Methi plus that particular Lamb Flavour which can only be achieved by cooking the Meat on-the-bone. The Spice was Fine, a bit more would have been tolerable. The Seasoning was Sufficient in one mouthful and lacking in the next. I then realised that the Temperature of the Dish also varied from as Hot as I would like it, to approaching Tepid in in parts. Stir the Curry, Hector! The Lamb was Soft-Tender to Suitably Chewy and in double figures. Six Bones were leftover, three of them Sucky. The Bone Marrow made all the difference.

The Paratha, thankfully served whole, was too well-fired and suffered slightly as a consequence. Still Flaky despite the Meat Stuffing is difficult to achieve. The Mince last time was served as Grains, as one hopes for. This evening the Layer of Meat looked like Light Brown Donner, a first. Better than most, not quite perfect, the Paratha did the job. From the first dip of the Paratha into the Peripheral Oil, I felt this was going to be a worthy Hector Curry. When I reached the half Large Green Chilli there was an air of familiarity. This was indeed a Hector Curry, very enjoyable, not quite Perfect.

Keema Mutter

Hector would have asked for Methi to be included, Marg has no such obsession. Without the Potato, this time Marg was able to clear her bowl, apart from her half of the Large Green Chilli. I assured her that served – Raw – they retain their Kick, these had been cooked-in and therefore had lost their edge.

Not too spicy – was Marg’s verdict. Very enjoyable, a good texture, spicy. The Chapati was quite hard, a good choice.

Hector-the-Insufferable had to remind Marg that she had ordered a Roti, and Rotis do Crisp on cooling.

Bhindi Gosht

Sandy was the only one of us to use his plate. He made a positive announcement soon after starting. It was clear he was enjoying this. The Okra-laden Curry was not too much for him. I mentioned how difficult it is to serve Okra spot-on, it turns to Pulp too readily. He assured this me this was Fine.

I thoroughly enjoyed it. It had texture, flavour, but was warmer than I expected but that’s OK. I really enjoyed the Onion Kulcha (Naan).

Chicken Chilli Masala

With more Masala than the other three Dishes served to our company, I awaited Tracey’s quote with interest.

A tasty Curry, but I couldn’t tell you now what I had. It was more textured than I am used to, not as soup-like as I am used to. Tender Chicken, I enjoyed my Paratha.

A Curryspondent once chastised The Hector for always ordering the same thing. When I dine alone, which is a common occurrence, inevitably it is only the Hector Curry which can be reported upon. Dining in Company leads to Diversity. Tonight we had the Antithesis of the Hector Curry plus three entirely different Dishes.

The Bill

£47.55. I like the prices at Lahore Karahi. The Mains and Accompaniment together were less than the Base Curry Price at Light of Bengal last evening.

The Aftermath

Sandy announced he would most certainly return. (With a couple of Cans?)

No Calling Card was presented, I have been here often enough, I am also Friends on a certain Social Medium.

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Aberdeen – Light of Bengal – Everyone Deserves a Second Chance

Posted on December 26, 2016 by Hector

Light of Bengal (13 Rose St, Aberdeen, Scotland AB10 1TX) is the fourteenth Aberdeen Curry House to appear in Curry Heute. That this well established venue has taken so long to appear is down to the last visit a decade ago, or thereabouts. The Hector was in no hurry to return, however, being the day after the Day of Nonsense, the intended venue Maya (the former Manzil) was closed. Blue Moon which was also visited a long time ago was stowed with a group of some twenty chaps on a long table, no thank you. Cinnamon was passed en route, another venue which has not been visited in the years of Curry-Heute, was also closed. There had to be Curry-Heute.

On the last visit to Light of Bengal we did arrive at the end of the shift and were taken in. The Order was taken, the staff then started vacuuming all around our table as if we were in the way. The time taken for the Food to arrive was such that Robin left in frustration long before it was served. It was that night the term – a Robin – was coined. When – The Bill – was presented they tried to charge us for the Curry they never served, fortunately, we had a Jonathan on hand to explain to them why this was not appropriate.

Ironically tonight, entering @19.30, we were marched through to the rear of the premises to the exact locus where Marg and Hector sat that fated evening. Tables for two occupied one side of the passageway, booths have been installed on the other. Our table was the last booth. Set for five, three settings were cleared, this was much more comfortable than the tables for two, though I never did get to see what lay beyond. There was an aroma of Dark Red Chillies, I wondered what Dish this might be from. The first waiter asked if we required Drinks and Poppadoms. As is the Hector custom, I asked if the Poppadoms were being given or sold. So no Poppadoms. Marg ordered the Drinks.

The Drinks Menu was removed, so it was only at the end of the visit we established that the litre bottle of Sparkling Water cost £5.75. Ouch!, but still not as bad as one night at the Jewel in The Crown.

It was time to study what was quite a different Menu. The standards were there, but under – Chef’s Specialities – was an array of Dishes which required close reading. The range of Bhoona Dishes was encouraging, there should be a Hector Curry here somewhere, then Afghani (£12.95) was spotted – Double strength sauce thickened with tomato puree and garlic, sprinkled with fresh coriander. Given my penchant for Punjabi-Afghan Cuisine, this could be the basis for a reasonable assessment of the Light of Bengal. Alas, Bengal is on the Bangladesh side of India.

Marg looked at the Karahi, however, this was described – Very rich flavour obtained by using fresh ginger, garlic and green peppers. The Garlic Shagorana – Tandoori dish cooked with a sauce of fresh herbs, garlic, tomatoes and onions – appeared to avoid the Dreaded Ballast.

To accompany, Marg desired Vegetable Fried Rice (£4.65 – how much?), whilst Hector was motivated by the enjoyment of the perfect Paratha last week at Glasgow’s Yadgar, it had to be.

A new awiter took the order. I gave the usual caveat – Can you please ensure that no Capsicum appears in any of the order?

We were advised that the Garlic Shagorana had Green Peppers. Marg was quick to point out that the Menu description did not mention Green Peppers for this Dish whilst it was specific for others. Could these be withheld? I then did well to ask about the Onions. These too would be in unwelcome Chunks. Start again.

Lamb Gujerati Bhoona – Rich flavour with fresh ginger, spring onions, fresh coriander and garlic, topped with homemade cottage cheese (paneer) – was my suggestion. I reminded Marg that we have had Paneer on Curry in Bradford, Omar’s. No Onion or Capsicum chunks here. Sorted.

At this point I wish to draw the Dear Readers’ attention to a very important issue – Chapattis. Too often in Aberdeen these are charged at ridiculous prices, at Light of Bengal, a Chapatti costs £1.10. Expensive compared to Bradford, but in Aberdoom, most amenable.

Afghani

A Chap in a Chef’s hat was charged with delivering the Curry. Placing the Afghani before me, he drew my attention to the Green Chillies, presumably to verify that these were permissible. Three, at least, whole Green Chillies were embedded in the Burgundy Masala. The periphery of the Curry had a Micro Salad. Served on a flat plate, the Afghani was presented in such a manner to convey that Rice was not appropriate for this Curry. The Paratha was set beside the Afghani, a sensible size, scored into quarters but not cut through, Layered and Flaky, this was the Perfect Paratha.

The Lamb Gujerati Bhoona and the Mixed Vegetable Rice had the luxury of a hot plate from which Marg could help herself. Covered in Paneer I was initially worried Marg may find this off-putting, not the case. Beneath the Cheese Topping lay Lamb in Minimal Masala and an acceptable quantity of Onion, this looked like a Bhuna should. Marg announced immediately – This is lovely, the meat is not the tenderest, but tasty. Hector was still taking photos, a struggle given that I was in my own light.

The – Double Strength Sauce – was a fair description. I was careful not to touch the Green Chillies until I had given the Masala a thorough appraisal. The Spice definitely had the – Wow, the Seasoning should have been more. Finely Chopped Onions permeated the Masala, Tomato Seeds were visible also. I doubt if this was therefore a Tomato-only based Masala, unless the Onions were simply added later. Afghani, this was far from – Namkeen. Marg took a Soupçon and announced she tasted Cinnamon, I did not, a more Global Flavour came my way.

Seven decent-sized pieces of Lamb were present. The Lamb was – Tikka Lamb, no warning written on the Menu. Checking the Online Menu, this information is not there either. Fortunately for Tikka Lamb in a Masala, this was still pretty good, Tender Lamb would have been closer to what I have come to recognise as Afghani Cuisine.

I have seven pieces of Lamb – announced Marg. Hers was also Tikka Lamb, again no advice on the Menu. (If there was, neither of us saw this.) Marg commented favourably on the Minimal Masala, there was enough Moistness to keep her Happy; there was sufficient Dryness to keep a Hector Happy. Rice worked with this Dish: Chana (two types), Courgette, Peas, Green Beans, Potato, Cauliflower, Onion and Carrot were noted, quite an array.

We would probably order these Dishes again, but enquire about Tender Lamb.

There’s More

Marg fancied a Coffee (£2.75). She then asked for the Dessert Menu. Most of the Desserts were of the pre-packed variety. Three scoops of Ice Cream (£3.25), various, were ordered. Tonight we have a second photo of Marg, in her element. The Coffee was served with Cream much to Marg’s pleasure.

It looks as though we will not be waiting another decade to return to the Light of Bengal.

The Bill

£45.25. The base price for the Main Course was comparable to what one would pay for a Main, Accompaniment and a Soft Drink in Glasgow.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was given to the chap who took the Cash. No more was said. No interest expressed by anyone. Humour The Hector, please.

Update 2024

Light of Bengal won – Best Asian Restaurant in Scotland.

I would challenge that it is the best Curry House in Aberdeen.

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A Curry for Carnoustie – Aloo Gosht Methi Achari

Posted on December 22, 2016 by Hector

A few weeks back, Marg informed Hector that we are invited to stay over with Margie and Dr. Alsadair in Carnoustie en route to the festive dinner in Aberdoom – Oh, and I said you would cook Curry – for ten.

This was not a problem, just a matter of fine tuning the purchasing of the Fresh Ingredients. 3Kg of Mutton from KRK (Woodlands Rd., Glasgow) was purchased on Wednesday, no Frozen Methi was on sale. Fresh Coriander was picked up on Thursday, how many road miles would this Curry involve?

Hector’s Lamb Curry for Eight has been posted in Hector’s Curry Recipes for some three years. Upping this to – Ten – should not be a problem. A pressure cooker has been acquired since that posting, thirty minutes under pressure for 3kg of Mutton with some Oil and Garam Masala turned out to be a good guess. The Lamb was cooked but still slightly chewy, another fifteen minutes on the gas and it was approaching perfection. Given the reheating to follow this would survive and not tend to pulp.

For the Masala, three bags of chopped frozen Onions saved a lot of tears. These had been defrosted overnight to get rid of as much moisture as possible. The Onions were cooked for approaching an hour before the Garlic Paste and Puréed Ginger in Tinned Tomatoes were added. The blender could not cope with the Ginger, I should have used another electric chopping device I have ignored for some time. Blended in the Tomatoes, hey presto.

Half a Bowl of Dried Methi was soaked and left to stand. This was then spooned in, enough to be visible, not dominant.

The Classic Spices were added as per Recipe, both Elements declared ready, they were combined into The Big Pot, not – The Big Pot. Half a bottle of Tamarind Sauce was stirred in, the first of two steps towards – Tangy. Hector has learned, the hard way, to boil the Potatoes separately. Late on Thursday night, the cooked Potatoes, Lime Pickle, Chopped Coriander and Fresh Mushrooms were stirred in to the Melange. Finally, on Friday morning a carton of Natural Yoghurt was stirred in.

And so the now 5kg of Curry was driven to Carnoustie, one should never skimp.

Alasdair, Mein Host, was keen to try his newfound skills at Chapatti making. Margie was put in charge of Rice.

Meanwhile Fiona, encountered for the first time, was busy making a Chicken Korma. This required two tablespoons of Cayenne and a lot of Yoghurt poured over Chicken in a Garam Masala. No Coconut here, this was more of a Desi Korma as inspired by a famous Indian Chef who needs no publicity on this Website.

It took over an hour to reheat the Hector Curry, we were in no hurry, but as 20.00 had passed, we lost two of our Diners. Only seven diners sat for Curry in the end meaning it appeared we had just scratched the surface. Hector’s Curry was favourably received. The Spice Level was not for the faint of heart though Fiona thought her Korma was – Spicier. The Seasoning was there, the Pickle sufficient to justify the tag – Achari. The combination of Fresh Coriander and reconstituted Methi provided the required Masala with Herbs, as opposed to a Saag/Palak cop out. Alasdair was disappointed that I had not produced Lamb on-the-bone, but I did not know my audience. I had to be pleased with the Texture of the Lamb, most Tender, with hints of Lamb Pulp left in the not excessive Masala.

Cooking for ten, not something one does every day, a pressure cooker makes all the difference.

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Glasgow – Yadgar Kebab House – A Winter Solstice Curry

Posted on December 21, 2016 by Hector

Dr. Stan has been incapacitated for the last few weeks, today he hobbled over to the Southside, his first Curry since his Op. The lure of Curry-Heute at Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) proved irresistible.

Shkoor, Mein Host, was texted yesterday to arrange our usual Goshat Karahi. He suggested we try something else. What he had in mind remained a mystery – as long as it never had feathers – was my only condition.

Naveed and Omar were there to greet as we entered at 16.00. I told Naveed that we had no idea what we were having – The Daily Specials – is what we had to choose from.

Do you like Karela? – asked Naveed. Of course – was the reply. It was this or a Dish which once had feathers. I enquired about Kebaps to start, Chapli Kebabs were agreed. Chapattis are our Norm, Naveed suggested we have Parathas today. A great idea, I have not had a Yadgar Paratha for ages.

Omar started the conveyor belt of Nibbles: the Dips, Spiced Onion, a Salad with Pickled Chillies and Poppadoms. Naveed brought two halved Chapli Kebabs. This was more than enough to get us started.

The Spiced Onion, Hot Chilli Dip, and Pickled Chillies acted together to create Spicy Lips. The Chapli Kebab tasted Fresh, the cumulative Spice Level was intense. Dr. Stan could probably sit and eat these all day. Naveed came over once more with a Tandoori Chicken Leg, halved.

This is just made – he informed us. Hector took the top half, the Thigh, hoping to reveal some of the Chicken Texture experienced at Desi Cafe last week. Alas, this was all White Meat, reconfirming what The Hector always says about Chicken. The Red exterior may have had Spice, Nandos this was not. I don’t get Tandoori Chicken, whilst Chicken Tikka is something else.

As the Starters were finished so the Mains arrived. Two Large, Very Large, Flaky-Layered Parathas, Excellent. This is how they should be served, why can so many venues not manage this?

When two white plates of Curry were placed on the table Hector was taken aback. When did we last not eat from a Large Karahi?

This was a Portion of Karela Gosht, on-the-bone, eight pieces of Lamb, three bones, enough. When was the last time I counted the pieces of Lamb at Yadgar? Today we would not overindulge. This Dish tasted nothing like anything we had ever been served previously at Yadgar, and we have had Karela Gosht Karahi here before. This was indeed – Something Different.

The Seasoning was right there, the Spice Level not testing. Too much Karela can be a negative experience, the ratio of Karela to Onion was well thought out, not in your face, Very Pleasant. The Bitterness of the Karela was balanced by the Relative Sweetness of the Onion. This was a New Yadgar Taste, but what, why and how?

I asked Dr. Stan – What are you tasting?

Curry – was his curt reply. Indeed.

I think it’s Onion-based. This was a more valid response. The Karahi Dishes at Yadgar have a Tomato-based Masala, the Flavours today were entirely different. The Masala was visibly different, a good theorem. This indeed was a brand new Yadgar Experience.

The Bill

£20.00. Hector has done well this week.

The Aftermath

I had to ask Naveed why today was so different.

He informed us that when we have had Karela in a Karahi, the Karahi is cooked then the Karela added at the end. The Daily Specials are all Onion-based Masalas, and so the Karela was cooked into this. QED.

I should offer to work here for a week, no wages, just to learn.

Dr. Stan was delighted when a re-routed No. 4 bus pulled up outside, minimal strain.

The nights are fair drawing out.

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Glasgow – Khyber Pass Restaurant – Reputation Restored

Posted on December 20, 2016 by Hector

With Hector free of cooking duties until the second half of the week, why not take the Opperchancity to visit Favourite Southside venues? My last Lamb Karahi at the Khyber Pass Restaurant (221 St. Andrews Road, Glasgow, G41 1PD) was less satisfactory than what had been previously served, time to give Abdul & Co. a chance to impress once more.

Arriving at 16.00, a family were just leaving, all tables were free. Abdul beamed, – How are you? – a warm welcome. Indeed the premises were thankfully well heated as we approach the Winter Solstice.

I showed Abdul the photos of my last two Lamb Karahi and explained the difference.

The one on the right had less Oil, and was served Hot, Hot,

Spicy? replied Abdul. No, Steaming Hot. The point was put across. And so the Order was placed – Lamb Karahi (£12.00) with a Naan (50p).

For £12.00, one is served a Half Kilo of Lamb on-the-bone cooked with the Afghan method of Salt and Pepper only. One could order the whole Kilo for £22.00 if sharing. Chicken at £7.50 per Half Kilo is also available.

Last time, my Karahi was served far too quickly, so once fifteen minutes had past I felt I would be served the Authentic version. On the half hour mark the Bread order was verified. A Customer waiting for a Takeaway asked if I had tasted Rogni Naan. I had, but was happy to engage. The Order was changed to Rogni Naan (£1.00).

The presentation of a Jug of Water and a Salad heralded the arrival of the Lamb Karahi. At first it appeared to have a too Thin Masala and Excess Oil, this was revised. The Rogni Naan has a Sesame Seed Topping, Flavour-wise, it took me back to Jerusalem. Where can I buy a Jerusalem Bagel?

The Lamb Karahi was Piping Hot, success. This is important, as given the time taken to consume this mass of food, it is inevitably going to cool. By starting off at too Hot to touch, one has a chance of enjoying the endgame.

Ginger Strips topped the Meat and more were within. What is believed to be a Tomato-based Masala had an Earthy Flavour, quite different from any other Glasgow Venue. It is this which makes ordering Lamb every day a possibility, my Favoured venues offers something completely different, from each other.

Such is the nature of the cooking method, the Seasoning in this interpretation of Karahi has to be Sound. The Spice Level was fine, however, when Abdul came over to check on my progress, he brought three whole Green Chillies. I broke up one and mixed it in, an action which was not really necessary.

Is it good today? Abdul asked.

Hot! – was my assuring reply.

A Half Kilo, the Lamb was well into Double Figures. Around Half was served on-the-bone, a variety of bones, one Sucky Bone with Marrow still inside. Approaching the base of the Karahi I realised there was less Oil than first impressions gave. The Masala contained Pulped Lamb, more Flavour. One has questioned the veracity of the Meat served in some venues over the years, not here. The Flavour of the Lamb itself was to the fore, one could almost hear it – Bleat.

The Bill

£13.00.

The Aftermath

I asked Abdul if the Khyber Pass was still busy in the evenings.

Very happy – was his reply.

One hopes this venue is once again well established and can maintain the required consistency of service.

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Glasgow – Deira Lahore – We Will Follow Waris

Posted on December 19, 2016 by Hector

On tracking down The Legend that is Waris four weeks ago, I promised to return to Deira Lahore (631 Cathcart Rd., Glasgow, G42 8AE) one mid afternoon, so that I could take the Opperchancity of sitting in. Deira Lahore was first visited in 2014, the then Operators had been in business for some seven years. Waris, one of Hector’s Favourite Chefs on Glasgow’s Southside, has migrated from Lasani Grill to Desi Curry Palace before setting himself up with the assistance of another Chef and his Dear Lady.

Deira Lahore remains primarily a Takeaway, though a couple of tables can be brought into use. Entering just after 15.00, Waris was taking a phone order whilst putting together a mass of Pizza for a customer. There was still time to shake Hector’s hand and give his customary warm welcome. I took a seat to make it clear I would be sitting in, then rose to study the Desi Curry Dishes on offer.

Two Lamb Dishes were to the front of the display, one was clearly Aloo Gosht, I asked about the other – Aubergine. Chicken Biryani, Chana Curry, Keema Mutter and a White (Namkeen ) Karahi were also on offer. Waris’ Namkeen Karahi is something to behold. I looked at it – Mmmm.

It’s Chicken – advised Waris knowing my preference for Lamb. Hector was tempted but restored the gaze towards the Aloo Gosht.

Aloo Gosht with Chicken Biryani please.

The Chicken was cut small and appeared to be the same Thigh Cuts I enjoyed so much last week at Desi Cafe. Waris asked me to give him ten minutes. A Young Chap had entered who was making an ever expanding order as whoever was on the other end of his phone asked for more. Given that this was the Quiet Time of the day, Business was looking good. Deira Lahore lies at the eastern extremity of Govanhill, not a bad location to compete with aforementioned premises on Allison Street.

The original Boards remain listing Peri-Peri Chicken, Kebap, Burgers, Fish and Chips, and Pizza. Waris has turned the counter to run the length of the premises and has therefore reduced the sitting area. Sitting in will always therefore be a cramped experience.

A Plateful of Desi Aloo Gosht, on-the-bone, was set before me along with another plateful of Chicken Biryani with some Onion and Greens. Raita came too. Waris then put two cans on the table and apologised for only having a plastic cup. I informed him that I knew I was not here for Five Star Dining, I was here for his Cooking.

When Curry-Heute began and I started touring the Southside Curry Cafes, I was critical of the Thin Shorva-style Masalas that accompanied some Dishes, Kofta Anda in particular. I have learned that this is the true Desi Masala, indeed, I encountered this Thin Masala often in India earlier this year. Expectations for Karahi are a different matter. The Tender Lamb was spooned across to the Biryani. It looked as if Waris had attempted to give me Rice and had withheld most of the Chicken. Still, the Bits confirmed the Thigh Texture which Hector has come to accept as Chicken Curry.

The Kick came from the Aloo Gosht, the Seasoning came from the Biryani. Cloves in the Rice gave an aromatic Flavour, this was a great combination of Dishes. Yes I know, traditionally I should have had a Chapatti with the Desi Aloo Gosht, too Splashy.

Are you enjoying this, or just filling your stomach? – asked Waris.

I am enjoying your cooking.

As I ate, Waris told me that this is the Food that is served at his home, he would not sell anything that was not. He asked after my Friends who have dined in his presence over the years, and then enquired about my recent visits to Desi Cafe. I read you online. I mentioned that I was aware of his former colleague, Ikram, being in Pakistan. The Joys of t’Internet.

The Bill

On producing the Cash, Waris looked a bit embarrassed. He didn’t want to charge me, to show his appreciation that I have deliberately gone out of my way to follow him and support his business. In the end, money did change hands, about half of what I was due.

The Aftermath

There had to be a Ritual Photo. This is Waris, Legendary Chef. Stop off and buy a Takeaway.

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Clydebank (Hardgate) – Bombay Grill – Two Differing Opinions, One Indisputable Fact

Posted on December 16, 2016 by Hector

Daft Friday – was the name given to this evening back in the University days. On this night, few fear to tread outdoors less one encounters – Amateuris Drinkerus. It was therefore a rare Opperchancity for Hector and Marg to spend the evening together, Curry-Heute was suggested, it is written.

Marg was confused by the identity of the chosen venue: Bombay Grill (19-21 Glasgow Road, Hardgate, Clydebank, G81 5PJ), once of the Boulevard Hotel, then relocated to up the hill to Hardgate. On entering, it appeared that a party was in full swing, every table occupied, Buffet Kings and Queens. Having stated that we had no reservation, there was no chance ot a table. It was Marg who suggested a Takeaway from the adjacent doorway.

A Young Lady served us, it would become obvious that this was her first shift. She knew nothing of the Dishes on offer and so recorded everything meticulously. But what to have?

The Menu was written on various boards on the walls, the terms – Mainstream – was never more apposite. Hector settled for Lamb Punjabi Garlic Masala (£6.95) with Vegetable Rice (£2.35); for Marg, Chicken Makhani Masala (£6.95) and Pilau Rice £1.95). Once upon a time, the original Akash in Helensburgh used to serve an Excellent Makhani Masala, topped with Cheese. Daal Makhani is one of Hector’s Favourite Sides, where available, a very Savoury Dry-tasting Dish despite the Soupy texture. We would see. I asked for my Punjabi Garlic Masala to be topped with Dry Methi. This was duly noted.

The Bill

£18.25. More on this to follow.

The phone rang almost constantly throughout our wait, a more established member of staff took over the counter, up to an hour wait was quoted. We had time to study our surroundings. Wine bottles were visible in a fridge, so Bombay Grill have their Drinks Licence (they were awaiting this last visit). A board had a hand written Buffet offer: Weekend Buffet £14.95, £13.95 otherwise. However, it was the – £19.95 Buffet with 4 Drinks – which stood out. Interesting. One wonders what constitutes – 4 Drinks – ?

On another wall, the Set Meals offer was listed. £8.95 for a Starter, Mains, Sundry, an extra £1.50 for variations, including Lamb? We could have paid Less and been given More. This offer was not made. More importantly, Karahi and Bhoona were part of the Set Meals, but not on the Main Menu. Why?

After a most acceptable wait of some twenty minutes, our Takeaway was presented, Complimentary Poppadoms attached.

@Hector’s House

Marg already had her fingers in the Poppadom bag, hence the photo of the remnants. She announced that a Takeaway suited her more this evening, it had been a long week. The various components were revealed.

The Vegetable Rice had three large pieces of Green Pepper prominent, these went straight in the bin. What was left was a Large Portion of Rice with Potato, Cauliflower, Onion Chunks and Mushrooms. No Green Beans. The Lamb Punjabi Masala had a generous Topping of Dry Methi, beneath lay the Masala whose Colour and Texture suggested Daal, but was a Standard Puréed Masala. Eight double-sized pieces of tender Lamb were present, Sufficient. Too Sweet – was the initial reaction, time to stir in some Methi. It was then the Red Garlic Paste was uncovered, why Red? Hector loves Garlic, but to taste this alone, too much. The Melange of Masala, Garlic Paste and Methi improved the overall Flavour, Synergy, this was not. The Spice Level was – OK -, the Dish was way Under-seasoned, it was Curry, nothing to get excited about.

Two more pieces of Capsicum were unearthed and set aside. I then realised that I was in a hurry to get this Curry finished. The Rice was overcooked, to the point of turning to Stodge. There was a Strange and somewhat worrying Flavour from the Potatoes. A Very Average Curry was being ruined by the Accompaniment. Extra Rice can always be saved for later, tonight it went straight into the Capsicum-laden bin.

Marg was in her element. This is exactly what I needed! – was her proclamation after the first mouthful.

When Hector opened the packaging there was almost a gasp of horror. No way would I order this, but then Marg loves Butter Chicken. She took half of the Pilau Rice where each individual Grain stood out, this had been cooked properly, and half of the Chicken Makhani Masala. A Bright Coloured Sauce with Chicken swimming therein is something Hector finds abhorrent, each to their own. Unfortunately, with half leftover, Hector would have to fall on the sword. Tomorrow’s Lunch?

Hector: I wouldn’t buy a Takeaway form Bombay Grill again.

Marg: I would.

Postscript

It came to pass that on Saturday night, the remnants of the Chicken Makhani Masala and Pilau Rice were placed in the microwave. The Rice was visibly way better than the Stodge I had attempted to eat yesterday. An Orange-Yellow, Creamy and Puréed Coconut laced Masala is not a Hector Curry. Four pieces of Chicken Breast were the Solids. It is ironic that in the week when Hector finally found a Chicken Curry to his liking that I would find myself eating this. My customary parameters of Spice and Seasoning felt irrelevant. Sweet, Sickly, not for me.

Below this level there is none; or Chicken Tikka Masala perhaps?

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Köln – Indian Curry Basmati House – Düsseldorf – Michael Rother – Flammende Herzen

Posted on December 14, 2016 by Hector

This Two Day Trip to Deutschland is jam-packed. After yesterday’s Unpleasant Curry at Jaipur Palace in Düsseldorf, there was an evening rendezvous with Fred Waltmann – Bier Guru – at Uerige for Sticke Bier, a first. Today, an excursion to Köln to visit the best Weinachtsmarkt we have encountered. There had to be Curry-Heute. When there is only the Opperchancity for one Köln Curry, then it has to be the Indian Curry Basmati House (Severinstrasse 53, 50678, Köln, Deutschland). Jonathan managed to get us from Messe/Deutz to Severinstrasse where we picked up the fated Line 17. U-Bahnhof Kartäuserhof is metres from the Curry House. One day we shall be able to get Line 17 all the way from Hauptbahnhof (Breslauer Platz) to Chlodwigplatz, the Heart of Köln Sud.

Entering the Indian Curry Basmati House around 13.30 this Wednesday Lunchtime Hector and Steve were surprised to find the place so busy. Every wall booth was occupied as were most of the central tables. I counted thirty Diners, this number could not have been accommodated in their original premises across the street. Jonathan and Neil found the call of nearby Früh em Veedel to be more appealing.

Mein Host and his Lady were not to be seen as we took our seats. The Menu was brought by a Young Waitress, however, when it came time to order, Mein Hostess was standing, pad in hand, and a beaming smile. Hector and Steve are known here.

Yesterday’s Mutton Vindaloo was so Poor I was determined to have the same again – as it should be done. Lamb Vindaloo (€9.00) comes with Basmati. Steve studied the Menu, I asked if he had ever sampled Duck Curry, in Deutschland it is prolific. Ente Madras Curry (€10.90) was Steve’s choice. We were asked if we wanted – Spicy – I took the Opperchancity to ask if Methi could be added on top as was done so well last visit.

The wait was Honourable, yesterday’s Düsseldorf Debacle saw the Curry arrive in an instant. We sat and watched the Parade of Curry being taken to other tables until the Young Waitress brought our Plates, new Plates.

Lamb Vindaloo

I have written much about the waste of Rice in European Curry Houses, here was Curry with Rice, an appropriate ratio. The Meat was Plentiful, twelve pieces of Lamb and five of Potato; this was Curry with Masala, again a correct ratio.

The Herb Topping was Fresh Coriander, though I did pick out a Stem which I could not identify.

The Lamb was Beautifully Tender, we had seen the Base Lamb Curry on display at the counter as we entered. I would love to have this – Straight – sometime. The Vindaloo was suitably Spiced, not OTT. I also picked out a Green Cardamom and a piece of Cinnamon Bark, this was Echte Curry, full of Flavour, Very Pleasant.

Veniger Ente

Steve appeared to be taken aback by the Duck. He appreciated the Quality of the Meat but reckons he will be sticking to Lamb henceforth. Appearance wise, it was difficult to tell our Dishes apart, the same Masala no doubt, not Excessive, a Standard Indian Masala.

A reasonably good Curry, a good level of Spice. My first Duck Curry, I wouldn’t rave about it, though I enjoyed the meat.

Steve was finished first, Hector’s Curry Eating is always interrupted by note taking. Eventually we sat with two clean plates, every grain of Rice had been eaten. How often does this happen in Deutschland?

The Bill

€23.90. (£20.08). We had to go up to the counter to pay, separately. The 500ml Sparkling Water was €2.00 each.

The Aftermath

It is all of five metres to Zum Altes Brauhaus where Hector’s Favourite Kölsch – Reissdorf – awaited.

Jonathan and Neil joined us, from there the Markets and back to Düsseldorf for the main reason this Trip was conceived.

Michael Rother – Flammende Herzen

Earlier this year, Hector and Howard saw Michael Rother in Glasgow, a rare treat to see a Musician whose albums were bought in the 1980s. When his Website announced a Düsseldorf Gig where his first Solo Album would be played in its entirety for the first time, Hector had to be here.

Neil signed up first, Steve arranged the tickets, online. Jonathan came for the other activities, he headed into Downtown Düsseldorf whilst we navigated our way to the venue – Zakk.

Tonight’s concert was part of the Lieblingsplatte Festival, the performance of Flammende Herzen marks forty years since the release of the album.

Having checked at the door that there was no support, Hector headed to a vantage point facing Hans Lampe on Drums and metres from Michael’s table of gadgets. Neuschnee (Neu) kicked off the gig, with its melodic theme and driving rhythm, this set the tempo for what was to follow.

Speaking only in Deutsch this evening, Michael introduced the Band and the significance of the event. And so to Flammende Herzen, the title track followed by Zyklodrom, and Karussell the standout tracks from the Album, Feuerland, and Zeni the weaker parts.

Sonnenrad from Sterntaler for me is – The Track – and also the first I ever heard. Not knowing his Harmonia material, I believe the less Melodic sequences dated back to the pre-Neu days. I’m sure there was some Katzenmusik in there too.

Michael expected two – names – would be in the audience tonight, firstly the son of producer Conny Plank, and the Schlagzeug Maestro himself – Jaki Liebezeit. Jaki of CAN fame, played drums on the Rother solo albums; it was the possibility of his presence which made Hector determined to be here this evening. Alas, neither showed up. A Lady standing beside us asked if we had come all the way from – England – so see this performance. No, Scotland. She was bemused that Rother had played in Glasgow recently and asked about the venue. I assured her the Glasgow School of Art has a venue comparable to Zakk.

Steve, who knows a wee bit about guitar playing, observed that Franz Bargmann only played six chords all night. His duty was to maintain the – wall of sound – to which Lampe could overlay the Liebezeit-inspired Metronomic Rhythms. Steve was impressed by the sound Michael Rother was able to create with his adapted guitar, though I think he was more taken by Bargmann’s machine which was the same make as used by Dave Hill in Slade once upon a time. Neil was with us, but disappeared early to find a seat.

Steve had put up the cash for the tickets, I told him I would only pay if he enjoyed the concert. Steve said I should pay him double, that says it all.