Glasgow – Rickshaw & Co – Euro-Curry, served in Partick

A Tapas venue in the West End, here we go again. After the visit to The Lansdowne last week, Dr. Stan reminded me that I had yet to review Rickshaw & Co (9 Partick Bridge St, Partick, Glasgow G11 6PN) which has been open about a year. A Curry-Tapas venue on consecutive Saturdays, not exactly what the Hector seeks, but as has been written – for the sake of completeness. At the start of this week, Marg and Hector were indulged at the wonderful DumPukht Lahori, the Southside, where authentic – Desi Curry – is served.

Located behind the Three Judges, which itself was formerly The Tower Bar / Bennett’s, the Rickshaw premises appear to be a new build. The Springwell Tavern may well have occupied this site back in the day, others can fill in the last fifty years.

With the tiny Curry Pot around the corner, and – the must get back to Little Curry House at the bottom of Byres Rd., Partick does not do too badly for Curry. Usha’s Indian Vegetarian on Partick X has, not unsurprisingly, gone.

Arriving at 13.15, the Hector was the first customer of the day, by 14.00 we were nine. The staff outlined the Vegetarian Tiffin (£11.50) and Non-Vegetarian Tiffin (£13.50) to these customers. With – Chicken – as the Meat, Hector had no interest there.

The charming waitress offered – water for the table. Instead, the order for 330ml of Sparkling Water (£1,95) was placed. A pukka glass, we are in the West End.

Finger food – was mentioned on the menu, Hector prefers to have his dinner.

Listed under – Chef’s choice – was Lamb Lahawab (£8.50), a Curry yet to feature in these pages, maybe one day.

Lamb Handi (£6.95) could be more representative of the Masala served at Rickshaw, a free rein for Chef. To accompany there had to be an Interesting Vegetable.

Desi Bombay Aloo (£5.95) ticked the box, the humble Potato is often an excellent inclusion in any Curry.

Classic Naan (£2.50) was nearly the choice of Bread. On spotting Methi Paratha (£2.95), it had to be.

Dismissed was Aachari Lamb Chops, possibly the most expensive Lamb Chops in Glasgow? Hopefully, affordable and abundant Lamb Chops Achari will feature in these pages at the end of this month, unless Dr. Bernard vetoes.

I take it I won’t see masses of Capsicum in the Handi? – I asked the waitress.

She confirmed no Ballast, then asked:

Do you have an allergy?

No, I just cannot stand Capsicum in Curry!

Nobody ever asks me why, regular readers know.

The food arrived after an appropriate wait. As with last week, a small dinner plate.

The Methi Paratha was served in a Tiffin tray, in five pieces. Wholemeal, slightly toasted, there were but flecks of the glorious Herb mixed into the dough.

The parameters which define a quality Paratha have been written oft: thickness, layering, flakiness, the spiral, buttery, none of these were present. This was not a Paratha as is recognised in Curry-Heute.

Desi Bombay Aloo

Potato wedges, this was different, sat in the seemingly not Soupy Masala. Finely chopped Onions had been added to the presumably blended Masala. Flecks of Coriander had been stirred in. On transferring to the dinner plate, the Masala did run, so Soupy then. The quantity of Potato justified the price, a decent portion for – Tapas. Finger food, not.

Lamb Handi

The Masala appeared to have a better consistency, again finely chopped onions were mixed in. I counted seven, respectably sized, pieces of Meat as I squeezed this Curry on to the empty part of the plate. Avoiding cross contamination was the name of the game. The Handi Masala initially appeared to be darker, on the plate, hard to spot any difference.

The all important first dip of Paratha into the Bombay Masala revealed no blast of Flavour. Mildly Spiced, was sensed. The receptors awaited, something, anything. The level of Seasoning was approaching the non-existent, ergo what chance the Curry? The Potato had not absorbed Flavour, well what was there to absorb? How long had they been in each others company? The whole point of Potato in Curry appears to have been missed.

The Handi Masala fared no better. Again, the lack of Seasoning was the culprit.

The waitress came over to ask the customary question.

The lack of Seasoning was duly reported.

I’ll let the Chef know – was the response.

A Black Cardamom was unearthed in the Handi Masala, a whole Spice, there had to be something happening here. I started to question if the taste-buds were actually working. The Lamb itself I could taste, one hopes for more, but had the Masala permeated, it had so little to offer.

There was something upsetting, whatever was registering on the palate was not what the Hector seeks, yet was becoming familiar. Deutschland, came to mind, Euro-Curry, I have had this too often, Curry as in what Chefs think people like.

The mass of food on the plate remained considerable. Time to abandon the Bread. Then the penny dropped.

The Wholemeal flour in the Paratha was overwhelming everything else. By abandoning this shockingly poor Paratha, which was already turning crispy, the taste-buds were invigorated. I could taste Lamb Curry! An improvement, but the lack of Seasoning meant there was no way back.

Having called it a day, I returned to the Sparkling Water. The palate rinsed, so an array of Spices emerged. The Paratha had masked these, still no Methi blast. The experience was nothing like as intense as last week’s – Afterglow – at The Lansdowne.

I have to accept that the Mainstream Curry Houses serve food pitched for the masses, thankfully not everyone knows of Glasgow’s Southside Curry Cafes, oops. I found it hard to believe that what was served today was from a Glasgow Curry House. In Europe, one tends to review from the perspective of the Curry being second division. I do not expect to make this adjustment in my home city.

The Bill

£17.80

The Aftermath

It was the same waitress who had dealt with me throughout the visit. She once again apologised for the lack of Seasoning. Having introduced myself and Curry-Heute, I then went on to define what makes a Paratha.  Sorry.

Not a good day for the Hector. I feel a Desi Korma calling, where can I source one?

2023 Menu

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Glasgow – DumPukht Lahori – A Bright Light on Paisley Road West

A timeous return to a favourite Curry Cafe was required. Marg and Hector arrived at DumPukht Lahori (39-41 Paisley Rd. West, Glasgow G51 1LG) at 17.25, Aqeel, Mein Host greeted with:

Hi, Hector!

Six chaps were feasting at our usual spot, the far corner became ours. Aqeel started to recite our Order as he approached the table, however, I was keen to confirm the menu had not changed in the last six months. It hadn’t.

A kilo of Lamb Lahori Karahi (£34.99) it would be. A Roti (£1.50) for Marg, a Till Nan (£2.99) for Hector. For reasons not fully explained, Til Naan was not available, Aqueel promised – something.

Salad was mentioned and declined before Marg had her say. Aqeel was on his own, why waste his time with the frivolous? The six chaps were still receiving top-ups, I can state with confidence that they had not shared three kilos.

Hot plates were provided, just as well there was no Salad. It took Aqeel thirty minutes to work his magic.

The Roti was pale, standard for Glasgow’s Southside. Hector’s Bread was half Naan half Roti. Hot and glistening, this proved to be a soft, worthy Bread. More than the norm would be consumed.

Lamb Lahori Karahi

Glorious! The mass of Lamb on-the-bone was shrouded in a pulp-like pale Masala, no – Red – here. Coriander Leaves, Green Chillies cut lengthwise, and Ginger Strips were abundant on top. Actual liquid was at an absolute minimum, once settled there proved to be no Oil slick.

Let’s get tore in!

Peppery! This was as close to Namkeen Karahi as one could find without ordering it as such. The Seasoning was astonishing, right up there – brave. Salt and Pepper the fundamental ingredients of this simple Karahi. Simple? I’ve tried, this takes a special skill.  Some Green Chillies were consumed, many were abandoned, there was no need to change the nature of what lay before us.

No Sucky Bones, no ribs, from where this Meat came I know not. There was something with the appearance of a Lamb Chop in there.  It was evident earlier this year that the actual quality of the cuts has improved since the early days of DumPukht. Nothing – offal – here. Beautiful Lamb, giving back so much, the antithesis of Mainstream Curry.  

The Masala was so pale a brown it was grey, pulped Tomato, I assume.  The ratio of Masala to Meat was spot on. This Karahi was giving as much pleasure as could be hoped for, yet there was still no – wow – moment. Maybe this Karahi was very much as expected. Aqeel can cook.

When Marg’s Roti was finished, she stopped eating Curry. Whereas, Hector stopped eating Bread to ensure the completion of the Curry.

It became apparent that we would manage the kilo without Takeaway. As I savoured the final mouthfuls, so Marg was considering Dessert, no ice-cream on the menu.

Marg declared that after Keema, this style of Curry is her favourite. So much for my varied – Home-cooked – efforts. Looks like I’ll have to have another go.

Having gone up to enquire about Dessert, Marg returned to the table with the promise of Chai which Aqeel was preparing for – the six.

Milk with Tea and Sugar (sic), not for Hector.

Aqeel’s lady helper arrived around 18.00. On seeing Marg’s empty plate and Bread basket she was keen to clear up. Hector had to stop her in her tracks, ritual photos required.

I could make out enough of her subsequent Farsi(?) conversation with Aqeel to confirm that she was reporting back.

You like your food – was her observation when the table was finally cleared.

The Bill

£38.50   Complimentary Chai.

The Aftermath

Hector is famous – Aqeel informed his assistant – not a new customer.

Well, maybe here. Hector was here in March 2020 a few weeks after DumPukht opened. We all know what happened thereafter.

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Glasgow – The Lansdowne – Deep in The Afterglow

Amit Sharma @ The Lansdowne (7A Lansdowne Crescent, Glasgow G20 6NQ), is one of three Curry Houses north of the river which Hector has yet to visit/review. Tapas appears to be the major theme, not how the Hector prefers to dine. The Lansdowne is another outlet in the Mother India chain. Chains, to what extent do individual shops differ? In terms of Mother India, there is only one venue which features in Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses.

As one who unashamedly favours Glasgow’s Southside Curry Cafes, this was a case of having to visit, for the sake of completeness. OK, go on, impress me.

With irregular opening times, today’s 13.00 did suit Hector’s Saturday schedule. Arriving at 13.35, I thought I was the first customer of the day, but no, The Glassroom, a conservatory at the rear, was slowly filling. A party for weans, just what the Hector did not order. As it happens, this was the best managed babies/toddlers event ever experienced in a Curry House. Sucking on Poppadoms may be the secret. The Hector has suffered through the years, the parents usually to blame.

As I was led to the rear of the premises adjacent to the kitchen, I was surprised to see every table set up for dining. I had assumed that this was a reimagining of The Lansdowne Bar which I visited in the 1980s, but maybe that was on the west side of the crescent?

Various menus were provided, wine dismissed, as was the Saturday & Sunday lunch (£16.00) offer. Street Food / Tapas – featured prominently in the main menu, not why I was here. Two sections featured Curry of interest: Fish & Seafood, Some Old Glasgow Favourites. Boatman Fish Curry (£16.00) is one for another day. South Indian Ginger Lamb (£14.00) should guarantee the avoidance of both Chicken and Capsicum. Old Glasgow Favourites? Some of us are – old, Chicken aside, how many of these featured on any Curry menu back in the 1970s?

To accompany, Rice, to be discussed. Wonderful as they might be, the Hector was not paying £4.25 for a Malabar Parantha. Such is the price of Bier, I wonder how many people come here for nibbles and stay on for the evening? Maybe I just don’t understand the setup.

For Hector, a large bottle of Sparkling Water (£4.25).  The Order was relayed, I enquired about the Rice. Basmati, Fried and Lemon & Cashew a la Mother India’s Cafe were the options. Had Marg been here, it would have been the latter, I stuck with Plain Rice.

How to get some photos? The chap behind the bar acknowledged as I took the broad shot. The Rogues’ Gallery did not feature any recognisable faces. Hector knows no rogues?

Just how many does The Lansdowne seat? This place is spacious, enormous.

A hot plate, the size more suited to Tapas, was brought by another of the many staff on duty. Pile it on then.

The sensibly sized portion of Basmati was served in a tiffin tray. Every grain was decanted to the hot plate. The plate may have been small, however, given what followed it was much appreciated.

South Indian Ginger Lamb

The sliced Red Chillies were different, the distinctive aroma of South Indian Curry was already wafting towards the Hector receptors.   It all looks a bit – lonely. The plate resembled a flat karahi. The area was such that the Masala spread thinly across the base. Had this Curry been served in a more standard karahi/handi then it most certainly would have appeared to be – Soupy. Without the dinner plate, adding the Rice here would have been a major negative. Adding Rice to Curry is a – no-no.

I counted to nine as I arranged the decent sized pieces of Lamb on the Rice. As is the custom, some of the Masala was retained for the end game. Before me sat a potentially worthy meal. Meat and Masala, maybe I was already wishing there was an Interesting Vegetable in there.

The South Indian smokiness was present, but subtly so. A slight tanginess made me think – pickle – momentarily, no, Tamarind/Mustard perhaps. The Seasoning was particularly – low – and unlike recent reports, the lips did not register more as I ate. The Spice Level from the Masala was not challenging, when the Chillies were taken, this certainly altered the perspective.

The Tender Lamb was quality Meat. As is typical of the majority of Mainstream Restaurants, the Meat and Masala may not have been in each other’s company for long.

Mein Host, the manager I established later, came over to ask the customary question.

I described my appreciation of South Indian Curry and its distinctive Flavour.  For once, Chettinad was not quoted.

He reaffirmed my choice of Plain Rice, the added Flavours in the alternatives would have contradicted the Flavours in my Curry.

I ate on, the spare Masala being used to revitalise the remaining Rice. More Masala, the irony of the Hector posting this, would have been appreciated at this point.

The plate was cleared, every grain of Rice managed, a Curry to be enjoyed, however, it would be remiss not to state that the Flavours here were not as intense as those found in other venues serving South Indian Curry, north of the River Clyde e.g. Bombaywalla’s Sukka/Chukka – this was not.

The Bill

£20.75  West End prices.

The Aftermath

It was yet another staff member who dealt with the payment and who therefore received the Calling Card and thus heard the introductory spiel. The burning question had to be asked: is all the food cooked on the premises? A valid question when dealing with a Mother India variant. I was assured it is, and as he spoke so Chef momentarily appeared from the kitchen. Chef, but not Amit Sharma.

The Manager was identified as he headed back to The Glassroom where the many were being ably catered for. A pity, so many more questions. One day, perhaps.

Waiting for the #6 Bus on Great Western Rd. into the city centre, I could not believe there is presently only one bus route between Anniesland and Cowcaddens. There is the Subway and the train I suppose. Anyway, there was the realisation that I was still enjoying my Curry. When South Indian Curry repeats, it confirms why this style is a winner. The afterglow, indeed.

2023 Menu

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Hector Cooks – Beef Karahi

Dinner for one – what’s in the freezer? An unusually large portion of leftover, cubed Roast Beef, and Tomatoes which were frozen before the trip to Hellas/Italia. Curry-Heute – and why not? This also gave the opperchancity to try using the Nutmeg and Mace that were purchased a bit since. These new additions were ground together. Bay Leaves, Cloves, Coriander Seeds, Cumin Seeds and Black Cardamom would remain – whole, no Cinnamon. Kashmiri Chilli and Turmeric were the powdered Spices, oh, and some Garam Masala for later.

Finely cut Ginger and Garlic Paste were added to the hot Oil, followed by the Whole Spices.

The halved Tomatoes were then placed in the flat pan and left to cook for some ten minutes. I have previously found the the skins from frozen Tomatoes comes off more easily. Today, a Tomato-based Masala, no Onions, no Chillies.

Thereafter, the Tomatoes were mashed and the powdered Spices stirred in.

The cooked Beef would never have the time to absorb the full Flavours of the Spices/Masala. Hector cooks restaurant style Curry?

Methi, we need Methi!

And some Yoghurt.

Timings: everything so far was as required to create the Masala and see the Oil separate. The lid was put in place, the mix left on a low heat to given the Beef a chance, another ten minutes.

Frozen Coriander was stirred in, a further ten minutes of cooking.

The result was a red-rich Masala with the texture of pulp, does this define – Karahi?

Finally, the first tasting – Salt, a la Hector.

Basmati was the accompaniment. No Interesting Vegetable, had there not been so much Meat, I would have considered Potato.

The thick Tomato-based Masala Mash was something to be proud of. The Hector is getting better at achieving this. The Seasoning was well pitched, of course. The Spice Level was not overly demanding, this Curry was not about – heat – but trying to create something that differed from the Hector norm.

Nutmeg never mind Mace, are unknowns. I couldn’t tell what the individual Flavour of each is. What I had achieved today was significantly different in Flavour. Instinct had told me to leave out Cinnamon, consequently the first Spice I could identify was Clove. Clove, which identifies many a Manchester Curry.  The Herbs further added to – the familiar.  Behind this was the new.

Yes, I could get used to this. Whatever I cook typically tastes like a Hector Curry. Every local Takeaway tastes like a Clydebank Curry. Something different, and enjoyable, at last.

The negatives

Once I started eating the Beef I remembered this was from a joint that was particularly tough. Today, a mammoth amount of chewing. Mammoth might have been more tender. No Interesting Vegetable, how lazy.

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Glasgow – Village “Curry House” – Thirty Days Later

One month to the day since my last Achari Gosht (£12.95) at The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA) the Hector was back for more. Expectations were high, last time the intensity of Flavour hit the – Wow! – level. No pressure then.

After investing a ridiculous £4.00 to park on Centre Street, we entered The Village at 13.15. There would be eleven fellow diners in the course of our Monday lunchtime visit. The muzak was louder and different today, it sounded as if we were being called to prayer. There was no sign of Omar, a young waitress would do the honours. Only the great value  Lunch Menu was on the table.

Marg, wary of doing further damage to her top lip, would have Mince Curry as part of the Lahore Lunch (£7.95) deal. This comes with an option for two Chapattis and Vegetable Pakora. Mushroom Rice (£3.50) always works well with a Village Curry. A 750ml bottle of Sparkling Water would complete the Order.

I asked for – on-the-bone and Desi style.

That will be very spicy – was the advice in response – will you manage that?

I’m a man.

This always winds up Marg, if nobody else.

Seriously, I had just ordered a Dish from the Main Menu without seeing it. Did this not imply that I had full awareness of the situation?

Vegetable Pakora

The Pakora arrived almost in an instant, three pieces, two large. Hector’s share was much appreciated. Warm-hot, with a decent Spice Level, fresh and tasty, how I have missed this.

This was enough to amuse before the main event.

The Order was assembled on the table. Cold plates were the last to arrive.

The Chapattis were in the style of the preferred: traditional – Tawa cooked. Marg only required one of the two. The Mushroom Rice bowl was so hot it was dropped on the cold pate as I distributed the contents. The Rice itself was tasty, the Mushrooms a bit – iffy. I’ve had better fresh Mushrooms. The quantity always looks to be meagre when compared with the absurdity of a European serving of Basmati. The reality, every grain would be eaten, an elegant sufficiency therefore.

Achari Gosht

I counted the Meat well into double figures, no skimping here. An isolated Sucky Bone stood out, four more would be revealed, one rib. Quality Lamb – evidently.

The Thick Masala was far from excessive, enough, it matched the Rice portion. Has somebody actually sat down and worked this out?

Warm-hot once again, piping hot food at The Village is comparatively rare. This would take the edge off the experience. The Pickle came across, but not as intensely as last month. Maybe back then, Omar had a special word with the Chef?

The Hector is also in a period of recovery from the sublimely intense Desi Lamb Methi enjoyed at Annaya’s (Helensburgh) on Saturday. I knew that would be a hard act to follow, I chose today’s Curry in the hope that it might compete.

The Seasoning was a la Hector, the Spice Level far from demanding. Beautiful Meat, beware of the Mushrooms, enjoy the Pickle. Ah, this time, the base Village Curry Flavour was not apparent as it was last month.

No – wow – today, but I set the standards high. Hotter food and more Pickle may have achieved this, a Village Curry is not to be criticised severely.

Still way better than the Mainstream.

Mince Curry

The smaller karahi for the lunchtime menu, you get what you pay for. The dark Lamb Keema with Coriander stirred in, had minimal Oil collecting on the periphery. A spoonful crossed the table. The Seasoning was instantly apparent. That my Achari had even more Flavour was also realised. Marg likes her Keema, though today no Aloo or Mutter.

Tasty, salty, plenty coriander, a good hit.

The Bill

£28.35

The Aftermath

Mr. Baig, Mein Host, had come out from his office to take payment.

Surviving – was how he put it. The overheads are have been issue since the cost of everything inflated.

We’re just back from Greece, I shouldn’t tell you, but I’m going to: in the Athena Desi Curry Houses, a half kilo of Mutton Karahi is €6.00 including Naan.

He doesn’t know how this is possible either. I did admit it’s not the best of Mutton.

I suspect the sheep are not slaughtered, they die of old age.

The breeders – was his conclusion.

(For the record, it is known that sheep have to be slaughtered around the age of five, their teeth fall out, they can no longer eat.)

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Helensburgh – Annaya’s – A Methi Blast!

As storm Babet draws to a close in the East of Scotland, the West remains remarkably calm. A dry day in Helensburgh, always worthy of celebration.

Five years have passed since Hector and Marg dined with Alan and Tracy in Helensburgh. Annaya’s (80-82 West Princes St., Helensburgh, G84 8XD) remains the – go-to – venue. Have they dropped – Grill House – from their moniker? There have been sporadic visits with former colleagues and Howard in the interim, but still it’s two years since my last Helensburgh Curry.  

The booking was for 19.00, three of us were punctual, alas Marg was delayed due to a hospital visit. The first hockey related injury of 2023, just the four stitches, on the upper lip…

Rocky, Mein Host welcomed his regular customers, he did the double take on seeing the Hector. Yes, two years since the last visit.

Drinks were sorted, a Saturday night, Bier (£4.25). Sparkling Water (£2.95) could take a back seat, though on her arrival Marg did order a bottle. I had ordered Marg a Mango Lassi, much appreciated.

Dips, and a mountain of Poppadoms were brought by another waiter who clearly has an ongoing rapport with my fellow diners. The accompanying Chilli Dip was brought to our attention. Not that demanding, and totally lacking in Seasoning, bring on the Mango Chutney. No Tamarind. Alan mentioned his preference for the European Poppadoms, with embedded Cumin Seeds.

Only half of the Poppadoms were eaten. We did retain the pile, Marg advised that she could – suck on one.

I know what you’re going to have – Alan informed me.

Desi Lamb (£14.95) was on the – Special Menu – board. Alan was quite specific:

Desi Lamb with Methi, on-the-bone, extra Seasoning.

Guess who reads Curry-Heute! Evidently, Alan has honed this menu variation over the years. 

Rocky recorded the Order, he added – Spicy – twice.

Tracy was having Chicken Tikka Malaidar (£14.95), Marg had Maliadar (sic) Sagg when we last dined here together. The erstwhile typo has gone, Malaidar it is. Chicken being charged at the same price as Lamb? Cheeky.

Starters were announced. Not for Hector, a Mince Paratha (£4.95) had caught the eye. Not managing a whole one was predicted, so no point killing the appetite. Alan and Tracy would share Fish Pakora (£7.95).

Two Chapattis – declared Alan.

Which one? – I had to ask to maintain the accuracy of the report: Tandoori (£2.50), Buttered (£2.95). Alan didn’t know which one he usually has. I suggested he order one of each for comparison purposes. Done.

Fish Pakora

Six large pieces of Fish in a Spicy Batter, served – hot-hot – and definitely for sharing. The Hector declined a piece but did secure a Soupçon. Hot and freshly made, when Fish Pakora is served thus, it is magnificent.

This Fish Pakora was magnificent.

*

*

Rocky had explained that the Buttered Chapatti was cooked on a Tawa, the other, in the Tandoor. The latter is what I am used to being served on Glasgow’s Southside, the thinner Chapatti is my favoured version. And so it was with Alan and Tracy.

The Paratha was not huge, just as well. It was packed with Keema, brown Mince, cooked properly. None of the pink donner-like nonsense here. About three-quarters would be eaten. A change from my norm.

Chicken Tikka Malaidar

Marg reckons that in the flurry of group photos being taken on Alan’s phone, the Hector was distracted. There is no photo of this Curry, and no review. It was a Chicken Curry anyway.

Desi Lamb with Methi

Hot plates, hot food, always a good start. Topped with Ginger Strips and sliced Bullet Chillies, this was – the business. I counted eight pieces of Meat at the start, three on-the-bone. A standard portion at Annaya’s. Around the halfway point I counted again, six left. This was  a large portion therefore, and with the extra Keema, the Hector had quite a meal.

The Masala was dark and thick, the Herbs content was exactly what I seek: a Masala with Methi, not a mash of greenery.

The – Methi Blast – was instantaneous. Methi, where have you have been? This was glorious. The Spice Level was enough, not demanding, but noticeable. I marked the Seasoning as – low – at the start, but had to revise this as I made progress.

Hector is back in the land of quality Meat, tender, soft, Lamb giving of Flavour. The depth of Flavour was beyond anything I’ve had of late. A rich Curry, the restaurant price felt fully justified. Alan assured me that with regards to this Dish – I’ve had it better. Just how good can it get?

This Curry is going to be a hard act to follow.

The Bill

£104.80  Maybe  all should have had Sparkling Water?

The Aftermath

The leftovers across the table became Takeaway.

and so the Saturday night continued…

Note – anyone thinking of heading to Karahi Palace (Glasgow), it is closed for renovation and transformation into Handi by Darbar.

Watch this space.

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Hector Cooks – Shan Korma

The mission continues, to cook a Desi Korma at home as good as say Karahi Palace used to serve, and Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin) currently do. It was on my last trip to Berlin where I picked up packets of Korma Spice Mix. Curryspondents had previously made me aware of the Shan – Korma mix, a good place to start.

The ingredients were assembled, no Tomatoes, and 300g seemed a lot of Yoghurt. The cooking instructions, written in many languages both inside and outside the box, as ever had a glaring omission. Much was made of cooking the 300g of Onions and removing them, but only 60g would ever be returned. With the ingredients of the mix not in English, and no mention of Seasoning, discretion would be required. Determined not to make a – bland Korma – Green Chillies would be added.

The finely chopped onions took an age to turn – golden. The detailed instructions, for this part anyway, took me through the removal from the Oil, setting aside, then crushing, not blending. The results were not – crispy Onions – but an approximation of what I have in abundance – Dry Fried Crispy Onions.

Next time, I’ll save the tears and start with the Dry Fried Crispy Onions, which are used regularity in other cooking, great for thickening.

A kilo of Chicken, well I wasn’t risking the waste of Lamb. The quantity of Yoghurt added lots of liquid, the half cup of Water was included regardless.

The Chicken was given a good half hour on the low heat, one can never be too careful. Still, the Masala was too wet, no more water was added as instructed. Instead, the Dry Fried Crispy Onions I had looked out for comparison purposes went in, much better.

A decent Masala Mash was created. Whole Spices were revealed, Green Cardamom and Peppercorn. Given the self imposed rule, the Seasoning had to be tested before serving. Not bad at all, no more Salt required.

Boiled Rice is my favoured accompaniment for a Desi Korma.

Three of the six Chicken Thighs looked like a portion. This was possibly my first Chicken in a month. We know what’s coming next.

The Chillies had certainly upped the Spice Level, as now expected the Seasoning was fine. Clove and Cinnamon came across strongly. This, and the Whole Spices gave an air of efficacy, however, the Desi Korma Flavour that I seek was not there. No Citrus.

Chicken skin absorbs, the Meat does not. Yet again I ask, is there such a thing as a Chicken Curry?

For the next branded box of Korma Spice Mix, Vegetables.  The humble Potato, always a better solid.

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Bologna – Gujranwala Restaurant + Tikka Point (Desi Nashta)

With only a handful of Pakistani food outlets in Bologna, Hector was determined not  to miss out on anything special which might be available. Before crossing to the north side of the railways station to reach today’s intended venue: Gujranwala Restaurant (Via Alessandro Tiarini, 19f, 40129 Bologna Italia), there was a brief stop-off at Punjab Food (Via Giovanni Amendola, 15a, 40128 Bologna Italia) on the south side.

Punjab Food had a modest array of ready Dishes, Beans and Chicken did not entice the Hector to enquire about anything else. Further research online confirms that this is a Fast Food outlet, Curry as such is not on the menu.

News that – The Famous – had confirmed the appointment of their latest manager had reached the ears. More managers than trophies is the fundamental problem. Still, we reached Gujranwala at 13.30 with an air of optimism this fine Sunday afternoon.

The modern premises appeared to promote Pizza more than Curry. The waiter was quick to tell us that Pizza was not available yet today. Boo-hoo. The population of Bologna is fewer than 400,000, I believe in the last two days we have seen them all, and the vast majority seemingly eat nothing but Pizza. Of course, when Hector and Marg were in Agra, we famously went for Pizza as a respite…

Having had Curry yesterday at the impressive Mirch Masala, Marg was happy to have a Starter only today. Samosa (€1.50) was her initial choice. I suggested the Samosa Chat (€6.00) would be more of a meal.

Muttan Curry (€14.00) did not sound that exciting, I decided to try Fish Masala (€14.00) with Riso Zeera (€4.50). Two things to note here: Fish was being charged at the same price as Meat, in the UK, how often does one find this? The Jeera Rice seemed a bit steep. Maybe I should have gone the whole way and had Sabzi Biryani (€7.00). A Vegetable Biryani at this reasonable price would add Diversity.

A 1.5l bottle of Frizzante (€2.50) completed the Order.

Marg’s snack came a few minutes before the Curry, eat whilst hot.

Samosa Chat

Raw Onions, lettuce and Chickpeas topped the pair of Vegetable Samosas. Served halved, the Potato was visible in the Samosa, no more. There was little more than a threat of Raita as a dressing. Sometimes this creation can be served as a soggy mass, this was way more acceptable.

This was quite a plateful.

Are there three? – Marg posed after she had eaten quite a volume of Samosa.

A full dish of steaming opened Samosa with salad and Chickpeas on top creating a meal. A sweet, red sauce on the bottom added flavour to the pastry and mainly potato dish.

The waiter then brought the Curry and Rice pots, of course there would be more Rice than Curry, the European way. I took what I thought I might manage.

Fish Masala

The lid was removed, OK, this was by all possible definitions, a Fish Masala. Did it have to look so disappointing from the off? Orange, what sort of Masala was this?

Multiple strips of a white Fish sat in the orange, blended Masala. Once all the Fish had been arranged on the Rice, the Masala proved to be sufficient, not in excess.

There was a definite lack of Seasoning in the Masala, the Spice Level was moderate. The Flavour of the Fish was not powerful. Here we go again, Hector has been at this movie too often. A Fish Curry that lacks Seasoning and a Fish that may never have seen the ocean.

The Fish was well cooked, soft, next to no chewing was required, and – rubbery – this was not. On adding the remaining Masala the situation improved in terms of Flavour, despite a slight sweetness.

Fish, Masala, Rice, not particularly creative, I should have ordered the Sabzi Biryani also. Marg offered some of the Onion from her Chat, this added some crunch. Her Potato leftovers also crossed the table, distraction, variation, further improvement.

Overall, this Fish Masala was otherwise lacking in depth of Flavour.

All very Mainstream. At the foot of the Grill section I did spot – Muttan karahi €32.00 al kg.

Maybe this restaurant has more to offer? Fette di agnello,  a kilo of Lamb Chops was similarly priced, I reckon I could have a go at that myself.

The Bill

€27.00 (£23.43) It seems a long time since Athena Curry prices.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was given to our waiter, Curry-Heute explained.

Amazing!

I don’t always get a response such as this.

With a gut feeling of unfinished business, I made a return visit to Tikka Point (Desi Nashta) (Via Federico Venturini, 8a, 40126 Bologna Italia). Mid afternoon on a Sunday was evidently quieter than the same time yesterday. The three small tables to the right and the single table to the left of the door were all free.

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Photos of the ready Dishes were secured, the tray of Kofta being prominent.

The chap identified one pot as Beef Curry. On asking about Kofta Anda, this was confirmed. He was all set to prepare a Takeaway. I explained that I had just eaten, I could return tomorrow.

Closed on Mondays.

Hector is out of time.

I shall never definitely establish if Tikka Point is – the place – to source Curry in Bologna, instinct, and the information gathered, suggest it must be.

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Bologna – Mirch Masala – The Second Choice Is A Winner

Bologna, the final leg of this tour, Bohemian or otherwise. Bologna, another first for Hector, another blank canvas in terms of Curry-Heute.

Initial research highlighted one venue in particular: Tikka Point (Desi Nashta) on Via Federico Venturini which runs parallel to Via dell’Indipendenza, in the heart of the city.

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Tikka Point turned out to be essentially Takeaway. A pity, Kofta Anda was reportedly a possibility.

Three tables were squeezed in at the doorway, all occupied. I have sat Marg in some less than salubrious eating joints over the years, this would have been too big an ask.

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Serendipity reared its head once more. Completely off the radar and a few units to the south on the same street lies Mirch Masala (Via Federico Venturini, 4, 40126 Bologna Italia), this was a substantial venue.

We could see diners in an adjacent room to the entrance seating area, another room lay to the back. With the fayre on display in the style of a decent Curry Cafe, all looked good. I established Lamb, Marg the Keema. Vegetable Curry, Daal and Saag/Palak were also on display.

Do we order here?

We were directed through to the large room we had seen from the street, table service.

A family from the Indian subcontinent were finishing their banquet, another group sat to my left. Meanwhile, a table for eighteen was being prepared. It’s graduation day in Bologna, eighteen – Indian – chaps would fill the table.

The waiter brought a menu. This surprised somewhat, I’ve got a bit out of the habit.

Mutton Aloo (€12.00) was the safe choice, let’s be brave: Mutton Karahi (€12.00). For Marg: Qeema Matar (€10.00). These choices demanded Bread: Naan (€1.50) and a Roti (€1.50). Spice Level was discussed, medium for Marg, more for Hector. Not crazy – went down well.

We asked for the large bottle of Frizzante (€1.50), two 500ml bottles (€1.00) arrived, they could have been better chilled.

Glasses, plates, cutlery were conveyed by staff, various. A somewhat tired looking Salad was accompanied by a Raita which had a distinctive bite. More Salad was offered when the empty plate was handed back, declined.

Our waiter brought the food, crucially, everything served was – hot. The Roti, served whole, had risen, burnt puffy blisters had formed. The Naan, also whole, had perforations, yet it too had risen. The perforations had prevented blisters forming.

The Naan was sheer joy. Thicker Bread than I have seen for a while, the Naan was was super-soft, fresh tasting, wonderful, but more than a Hector could ever eat.

Mutton Karahi

The Mutton, on-the-bone, was piled high in the karahi. One – Sucky Bone – featured plus an array of ribs, potentially quality Meat then. Fatty bits were encountered, these were few.

The Shorva-esque Masala puzzled. Thinner than one would expect, there was more than a hint of Creaminess in there. A decent Spice Level registered on the palate, however, the Seasoning was lower than the Hector typically seeks.

The soft Mutton required minimal chewing, it also gave off the distinctive Flavour of the Meat itself. Spices had been absorbed, their Flavours being released, this was Mutton worthy of praise.

Dipping the Naan into the Masala was the alternate treat. Each and every mouthful was celebrated, this was a Curry which definitely suited the Hector. Then there was a moment of realisation.

As a Karahi Gosht, this Curry failed, the Masala was quite simply – wrong. As a Desi Korma, this Curry ticked all the boxes. Hector loves Desi Korma.

Finishing the Naan was never going to happen. I managed as much Bread as was possible until the need to finish the Meat and Masala became paramount.

Qeema Matar

The karahi could hardly have held more, a big portion. The Mince had been ground to a level of fineness not found in the UK. The Oil quickly gathered on the periphery, I observed a puddle at the midway point. Marg mopped up this excess with her Roti. She appreciates the Flavour lies here. Earthy, quite spicy – observed Marg.

A Soupçon came my way at the start and a full spoonful later. The underlying Flavour was markedly different from the – Karahi. No way was this as good as my – Desi Korma.

As a counterpoint to Hector’s approach, Marg stopped eating when the Roti ran out. Enough already.

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The Bill

€23.00 (£19.96) The Salad, Raita, Naan and Roti were evidently inclusive.

The Aftermath

Our waiter had dealt with the payment at the till. He was visibly excited when it was announced that Mirch Masala would appear in Curry-Heute. A happy chap.

Menu extracts

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Pisa – Ristorante Indiano – India – A Curry and a Leaning Tower, what else might a Hector seek?

During our three day stay, it was confirmed that there are no Curry Houses in Siena. Before Covid there was one, no more. There’s a business opperchancity. Pisa has many to choose from, one Pakistani source stood out. Google have been informed that it doesn’t exist.

Being resident north of the River Orno, not far from a famous tower which all the World has heard of, and is way more fun than some have reported, why not choose something nearby?

Ristorante Indiano – India (Via Roma 52, 56126 Pisa Italia) looked as good as any, Hector is back in the realm of Mainstream Curry, expectations have to be adjusted accordingly, unless – Desi – makes a surprise appearance.

Arriving at India at 19.15, three diners were in situ. Six more arrived as we ate, by the time we left this Thursday evening, business was booming. Italian customers, the tourists had mostly left this – day trip city.

With a glass window, one could see into the kitchen. Marg was intrigued by the green marinated Meat, ready for the Tandoor. Tablecloths, this was a step up from recent Athena and Roma venues. We would be subjected to the wailing Doris screeching her way through the – classics?

A window table for two was allocated, due to restricted space on the pavement outside, all who passed would see us. Our view was not what one expects to see from a Pisa restaurant window…

The solitary waiter brought the menu, it made a change to be served by an adult. The standard fayre was listed, for Hector: Mutton Rogan Josh (€9.90), for Marg: Mutton Dansak (€9.90). Just in case, an Alu Gobi (€5.50) was added. A Roti (€1.50), Jeera Pilau (€3.90) a 0.75l bottle of Frizzante (€2.00), and a glass of Mango Lassi (€2.50) completed the Order.

Seven days in Italia and we have not paid more than €3.00 anywhere for a large bottle of Sparkling Water. We are being ripped off in the UK!

It was I, the perpendicular pronoun, who suggested Marg have the Lassi, at this price, not to be missed.

Good, yeh – was Marg’s verdict.

We watched the passers by, many of whom looked at us. Doris hit a particularly high note, this is music? This is what the Mainstream still believe they have to offer.

The food was brought on a tray. The Roti, a bit thicker than the standard, was halved. Risen, and with burnt blisters, Marg reported it to be crispy in parts. Success. The Jeera Pilau proved to be White Rice with Cumin. Pilau? I think not. The quantity was deceptive, enough to share given Marg’s Bread preference, more than the Hector required.

Mutton Rogan Josh

Soupy Curry! This is why the Hector is usually found outwith the Mainstream. I counted nine below average sized pieces of Mutton as I decanted, as ever, I left half of the Masala in the karahi for later. Not a lot of Meat.

Alu Gobi

Proper Curry! Served – Dry – in a minimal Masala Mash, this was more like it. As I appear to have been doing recently, I arranged half of the Potato and Cauliflower on the opposite side of the plate of Meat and Rice.

I started with the Aloo Gobi, the Texture of both Potato and Cauliflower were perfect, no mush here. A single Curry Leaf was uncovered, no other Whole Spice. Tepid, the food could have been warmer. The Seasoning impressed, the Spice Level was hardly challenging. Despite the Potato not having had time to absorb the Masala, this was an impressive Aloo Gobi. The Texture and Flavours were worthy of praise.

The brown Masala puzzled. The description said – Tomato based – why so dark? I had chosen this Rogan Josh because it was not the – creamy – interpretation which may soon prevail. Thicker than a Shorva, the Masala gave off a tangy Flavour. I note their Vindaloo is described thus. I wonder? Again we had Seasoning! The Spice Level was moderate, maybe that is being generous. Spice Level was highlighted on the menu, we had chosen – zero Chilli.  An oversight on our part.

The Meat was soft, I have not previously had Lamb/Mutton of this quality on this trip. The Mainstream has its plusses. The Flavour of – Lamb – came over strongly, there was a sense of the Meat having absorbed the Spice.

Alternating between the Rogan Josh and the Aloo Gobi gave the Diversity which is sought. There was nothing here not to like. Competent Curry, not demanding, an enjoyable experience. The plate was wiped clean.

Mutton Dansak

Here we had a suitably thick Daal containing only six pieces of Meat. The extra solids from the Aloo Gobi would complement this Curry. Without the Aloo Gobi, I don’t think either of us would have had – enough.

Marg was quick to comment on the Seasoning, it must have been right up there.

I found the dish salty but flavoursome. I enjoyed the Aloo Gobi textures which combined well with the Roti. No extra Rice required, an enjoyable meal.

With everything wiped clean a couple of spoonfuls of Rice was the only leftover.

Pisa Curry, what more does a Hector need? A point against Espana would have been welcomed. Offside my…

We’re not finished. A Cappuccino (€2.00) for Marg. Served – hot – as coffee should be.

The Bill

€39.90 (£33.95) No inflated prices for Soft Drinks!

The Aftermath

With the waiter becoming busier by the minute, there was a brief introduction. The Calling Card was received with a warm sense of appreciation, especially when I said the review would be positive.

Menu extracts

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