Glasgow – Karahi Palace – soon to become – Handi By Darbar

In the coming weeks, Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) will be transformed and rebranded as – Handi By Darbar. So Moiz, Mein Host, informed me this afternoon after another excellent Karahi Lamb (£12.00). This identifies the link with Darbar Grill which is run by Ahmed, Moiz’s father.

When Moiz took over Karahi Palace at the start of June this year, he outlined his plans to upgrade the décor in this humble establishment. Mehfil – was then mooted as a likely new moniker, Handi by Darbar it is to be.

Handi – is a serving pot. Today, Moiz posed with the copper version in which my Lamb Desi Korma was served last month. In my first visits to Karahi Palace it was the much missed clay pots which were used. Many a menu has – Handi – as a Curry in its own right. Moiz confirmed my empirical conclusion that a – Handi – can be anything Chef desires. When the Hector orders a Handi, it is usually in the hope of discovering something special, a departure from the Mainstream. Sometimes this works.

Arriving at 13.40, Moiz was upstairs preparing for a function this evening. His assistant took the Order. The Vegetable Curry on display (centre) looked inviting. Hector was not about to be distracted, no Karahi Gosht for five weeks. Since then, the aforementioned Desi Korma both here and at Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin), Bateera and Fish Masala in Manchester, Telangana and Sukka in Berlin, and both Palak and Methi Gosht in Wroclaw.

Why all the travelling? – a Curryspondent once asked.

Can you make your site more of a blog and not Hector’s favourite curry houses – accused another.

Aye right.

Late September is going to be the start of another month of Bier-Traveller and Curry-Heute. Favourite places revisited, and hopefully some worthy new venues reviewed.

Taking no chances, I advised – Assistant/Chef –  the Hector tweaks: a bit more Salt, a bit more Methi. A Chilli and Coriander Nan would accompany, no Garlic.

I looked in the fridge no Sparkling Water. Sold out! Clearly there is no demand for Sparkling Water.

The young lady brought me a bottle of chilled tap water after she had finished sweeping the floor. Another young lady entered enquiring as to vacancies, followed by two chaps who sought, who knows what? They bought nothing.

Assistant – was then able to get to work. A modest Salad and Raita were provided. The chilled Raita was super-refreshing, an amuse-bouche. Is Hector’s stomach still on CET? The wait for the main event was appropriate.

The lady brought the food. No Garlic on the Naan, as requested. What happened to the Chillies? I would soon realise that a Coriander Naan (£2.00) is really all I needed. Served whole, the size was sensible. Soft and light, I would manage more than usual. Whilst I still prefer the Tandoori, tear-shaped, risen and puffy interpretation of Naan, this proved to be most satisfactory.

*

Karahi Lamb

So who needed Chillies in the Naan? The mass of sliced Bullet Chillies would provide the boost to the underlying spice Level of the Tomato-based Masala.

Hot food, it’s only when one is served steaming-hot food, that one recognises that this is not the norm.

The Seasoning was pitched a la Hector such that the distinctive Flavour of Karahi as now served on these premises was coming across. There was a rich, Tomatoey-Spice hit, not Charsi, something more satisfying, almost a tang. The peripheral Oil was soaked up by the Naan, more Flavour, more pleasure. The Meat was right on the edge, so soft, minimal chewing. Any more cooking and it would have turned to pulp. Three bones, one – Sucky – joy of joys. Meat that gives off more than – meatiness – not too much to ask, but in the Mainstream, evidently so. As the base of the black karahi revealed itself one sensed the osmosis, the years of quality Karahi that has been served on these premises. Serve – Curry in the Handi – please keep these wonderful black karahi for the Hector’s Karahi Gosht.

It was towards the end of the meal when Moiz made his appearance. Our conversion covered many topics, the lack of a true – Curry Street – in Glasgow was raised. The cluster around Allison Street being as close as we have.

The Bill

£14.00 – said Moiz.

Make it £25.00 – was Hector’s reply.

Honour restored, I wasn’t charged last month.

The Aftermath

With meat trapped in every gap – where’s my Zahnstocher? – was muttered on the bus back across the river.

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Wroclaw – Maharaja Indian Restaurant (Art of Food) – Bespoke Curry, almost

After his arrival in Wroclaw, I did wait a few minutes on Sunday evening to inform Steve that the three of us were booked for Methi Gosht (Zl44) at Maharaja Indian Restaurant (Art of Food) (Hugona Kollataja 22, 50-002 Wroclaw, Polska) today at 14.00. It’s not on the current menu, but was agreed with Sameer, Mein Host, after tasting the Lamb Palak (Zl44) which was quite simply, unique and refreshing.  An interpretation of this Curry which Europe tends to do so badly. Methi Masala did appear on a preview menu seen here three months ago, even Hector Holmes remains baffled as to its non-presentation. The photo showed Methi Masala, a Curry to savour, and hopefully not the Herb Mash which is regarded, on this website anyway, as the lesser interpretation.

Arriving on schedule, Maharaja was busy. A crowd of international student types were finishing their meals, then getting up en masse to pay at the counter. They did so individually, and today’s host, Mani, engaged with each one as they did. This took a full ten minutes.

Once the room was empty, Mani came over to greet. Thankfully, he was aware of our arrangement. Methi Gosht (Zl44) would be forthcoming, two spicy, one medium.

Where are you from – asked Mani – can you handle the Green Chillies?

We’re Scottish! – said it all.

In addition to the inclusive Rice, Marg added an Indian Butter Roti (Zl8), Steve a Garlic Naan (Zl13). Bottles of both Still (Zl7) and Sparkling Water (Zl7) plus a bottle of Mango Lassi (Zl10), completed the Order.

Chef got to work whilst Mani cleared the debris from three tables. The aroma of Garlic then Spice wafted from the kitchen. On completion of his task, Mani came over to chat.

Methi became the focal point of the conversation. Methi as a fresh Herb, as Seeds and as Powder. Mani told us that a teaspoon of Powdered Methi stirred into hot water each day is good for the joints.

After a respectable time, the food was served.

Three sensible portions of Rice, we could probably have cancelled one.

The Roti was definitely – Buttery – which would prevent it crisping. I did not recognise Steve’s Bread as a Naan. Thin, it hadn’t risen. No blisters, peely wally, how was that a Naan?

Methi Gosht

On Sunday, as I waited for the Lamb Palak, I asked myself – what have I done? The Curry turned out to be significantly different from the Euro-norm, excellent. The Methi Gosht did look closer to what I had expected last time.

With excessive moisture gathering around the edge of the karahi, and the spoonful of Cream swirled in the centre, this was not the hoped for Methi Masala.

The Spice Level was a notch above – medium – what happened to the Green Chillies? The Seasoning, which was the foil for Sunday’s Palak Gosht was missing, totally missing, as in – marked absent. The depth of Flavour which I found to be quite remarkable two days ago was not there. This Curry soon became monotonous. Yes, there was the Methi blast, thereafter, not much was happening.

Ten pieces of Meat were embedded in the Mash, I found a few fatty pieces, one or two required a bit more chewing. By now I should appreciate that these karahi may look small, they are deceptive. We had substantial Curry portions.

Those who had Bread, inevitably had too much Rice. Even Hector had to stop and abandon some grains.

Being the only one who had knowledge of Maharaja’s Lamb Palak, I have to report my disappointment today, however, starting from a blank page, my fellow diners had an alternative experience.

Steve – It was quite spiced, thought the seasoning was OK. The meat was a bit tough, a pleasant dish, no complaints. Naan bread, was doughy, whatever it was.

Marg – A lovely herby dish, with a few pieces of fatty meat. On the whole, tender. I thought the Roti looked heavy, but when mixed with the sauce, it wasn’t heavy at all. The Lassi perfected the meal.

The Bill

Zl177 (£33.77) In the spirit of the students, we paid separately.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was still at the counter, Mani therefore knew of Curry-Heute. I wrote earlier in the year that Maharaja has potential. Today this was not realised. What happened to the new menu?

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Wroclaw – Maharaja Indian Restaurant (Art of Food) – The Return

Three months ago, on Visit #1 to Maharaja Indian Restaurant (Art of Food) (Hugona Kollataja 22, 50-002 Wroclaw, Polska) there was sense of potential and the promise of a new menu. On our arrival at 15.40 the menu posted on the wall remained the same, Mein Host, not present last time, seemed not to recognise his new menu when shown on a well and reliable Curry Website.

We hadn’t taken a seat, a Hector Curry would be secured else we were walking. I showed Mein Host a photo of his Lamb Curry (Zl42) and told him I did not want  Soupy Curry. Lamb Kadai (Zl44) was mooted, could this be served without Capsicum? Apparently so, but when Mein Host mentioned Onions, I feared his Karahi may well be a stir-fry. He suggested Lamb Tikka Masala (Zl44), no thanks, then Lamb Palak (Zl44). Palak + Rice (Zl44) was agreed.

For Marg, a simple choice: Mutter Aloo Gobi + Rice (Zl28). Two half litre bottles of Sparkling Water (Zl7) completed the Order.

We took the table nearest the counter. Two other couples were present, as they departed so others arrived. Takeaway customers too, a steady business. I had time to contemplate my Order: what had I done? A Creamy Spinach Curry in Europe? Usually the aftertaste is similar to stuffed vine leaves as served in Hellas. Had I not suffered enough today? Radio Scotland had provided the football commentary, their panel insisted VAR had got it wrong. So it goes.

Sharing the litre of Sparkling Water proved to be enjoyable, well chilled, refreshing.

Two sensibly sized portions of Rice were brought to the table. I would eat every grain, Marg, who prefers Bread, deliberately would not have it all.

*

*

*

*

Lamb Palak

The Thick Mash of Herbs put this Palak Gosht into the lesser category as defined in Curry-Heute. There was no obvious sign of a Masala. The Meat count may just have reached double figures, it was difficult to see. Having arranged the Curry on the Rice, I licked the spoon – ah, Seasoning!

The Spice grew slowly, the Spinach did not come across as Bitter as it can do. Other Flavours emerged from the Mash, the listed Spices suggested that there may well have been a base Masala. The Meat was suitably Tender but felt remote from the rest of the Curry.

Around the halfway point I realised that I was truly enjoying this creation. Usually Spinach calls me, today’s Saag/Palak was not planned. There was something quite remarkable sitting before me. This was an excellent Curry, full of Flavour, as good an example of the genre as I have encountered. Did I mention the Seasoning?

That was super-good, as some say in Berlin.

Mutter Aloo Gobi

This Vegetable Curry was served majestically. What a beautifully Thick and Minimal Masala. I wonder if this is how it is usually served at Maharaja? Marg offered me some Cauliflower, I asked for Potato, that would tell me more.

I could actually taste the Peas from the Potato such was the level of infusion. I think a side of this must be ordered in future visits. Marg enjoyed her Vegetable Curry:

A plate full of crunchy cauliflower, soft potatoes and an abundance of peas, made up with a tomato and onion sauce. A lovely change, and the Rice completed this healthy meal.

As we ate, so Mein Host came to ask the customary question. Our enjoyment was relayed. I had to ask if Methi Gosht was ever available, as per the mystery menu. Three portions were arranged for Tuesday at 14.00.

A tray of what we took to be Bubble Tea was distributed among the diners. Gelatinous and Sweet, not my thing, like drinking frog spawn. Marg was surprised I finished it.

The Bill

Zl86 (£16.53)    I like Polish prices.

The Aftermath

As Mein Host was not present last time, a Calling Card and introduction felt appropriate. He was honoured to have us, so we were informed.

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Berlin – GapShap Indian Restaurant – There is Curry in West Berlin

The final day in Berlin, returning to Punjabi Zaiqa for another – fix – was always tempting.  For the serious, this has to be the #1 Berlin Curry venue.  Maintaining the spirit of Curry-Heute, it was time to go exploring again. In the words of a Curryspondent – it’s good that you check out these places so that we don’t have to.

GapShap Indian Restaurant (Güntzelstraße 19, 10717 Berlin Deutschland) was suggested by Bruna who was somewhat miffed that Marg and I went to her local – Chutnify – on Wednesday, without her. She hasn’t been to GapShap, but it had been recommended to her. Located in West Berlin, Charlottenburg & Wilmersdorf to be precise, this is not the side of the city where Hector has found favourable outlets. To date, Punjabi Zaiqa and Chutnify are in a different Berlin League, otherwise, competence may have been over-celebrated elsewhere. Another source suggests that GapShap is an offshoot of the shockingly awful, but seemingly popular – Bahadur – where I had to declare:

If you think that’s Indian food, then you haven’t been to India.

There was a classic case of – Indian Restaurants – serving up what they think the locals can manage. I met a chap at Protokoll earlier in the week who assured me that any – Indian Restaurant – in Berlin that is also a – Cocktail Bar – should be given a wide berth. GapShap identifies as an – Indian Restaurant and Bar.

GapShap – gossip, tittle-tattle, but in the spirit of India, I shall offer – chit-chat – as a suitable translation. Across Europe, and sadly including Blighty, restaurateurs evidently believe that – Street Food – is a selling point, a magnet to those who want to snack, with a cocktail?

My research, prior to our 17.45 arrival, revealed a photo of a seriously Dry Curry and Lamb Chettinad listed on the menu. That was enough to entice. A solitary diner sat near the entrance, two smokers outside. All tables were reserved in the otherwise empty restaurant. We were given a choice of tables. I declined the window table with the open window and the smokers directly outside.

Drinks had to be sorted, a 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water (€6.40) kicked things off. The Curry section of the menu was a realistic length, not pages of endless tweaks of the same Masala one finds across the city. Lamb Chettinad (€18.90) was the initial attraction but was instantly dismissed when Lamb Sukka (€19.90) was spotted. Marg took the Chettinad option, a Curry she knows well. Indian Mango (München) set the standard for this Curry many years ago. For them, Chettinad is not a Soupy Curry, for the rest of Europe, UK included, it appears to be thus.

The Chettinad comes with Rice, the Sukka is served on a Paratha. It is possible that this is Chef’s insurance against peeps trying to have Rice with what is traditionally a Dry Curry in the extreme, but not as served a few weeks back at Spoonful of India (Brussel).

It was Shubham, Mein Host, who took the food Order. Spice level was discussed. He rated the Chettinad as three on a scale of one to five. This suited Marg. Note, in Polska, the scale often goes up to ten, and Polish Curry is sometimes served at eleven.

I can handle more, I am British! – was the Hector method of avoiding any scale that may be associated with Bahadur.

Whilst we waited, and it was a respectable time, we were given a bowl of nibbles. Cubes of Toast, seemingly ordinary, but a delightful new experience. Far from saturated, but certainly – Buttery – subtle Spice and Herbs were in there too, tasty. Knowing that I had Bread coming, restraint was shown. Marg was not for holding back. She offered me the last piece, declined.

Other diners arrived. Each new table occupied had to ask for assistance with the menu. I was amused listening to the English waitress explaining the various Dishes, and Breads in particular, to a German lady who insisted on speaking the Lingua Franca,  then translating it back to Deutsch for her companion. Five days in Berlin, I have not spoken Deutsch once. Apparently, the locals still do.

For once, the portion of Basamti was sensible. There would still be some left over such was the nature of what we had ordered.

Lamb Sukka

From the moment it was set on the table, I knew we had authentic Curry. This was seriously – Dry. With a huge pile of Meat in a Minimal Masala, sat atop the Paratha, there was an issue.

How do I eat this?

One cannot scoop up the Meat with the Bread if it’s below the Curry.

With a knife and fork – suggested Marg.

Aye right.

Marg has a preference for Bread, she had Rice, I had a buried Paratha. I tore off the exposed strip of Paratha and passed it across the table, now what?

I had been given a dinner plate, decanting was the solution. A significant proportion of the Minimal Masala had by then, soaked into the Paratha. This left a soggy Paratha and a naked Curry. I took some of Marg’s excess Rice, not what Chef had intended. I stopped counting the Meat beyond double figures, each piece was large. There was also an abundance of Big Onions, usually Marg falls into that trap. This was a lot of eating.

The Paratha may well have been – flaky – as declared, Marg may well verify. I like to – get down and dirty – so tucked in, left hand trying its best to pick up Meat with the limp Paratha, otherwise, spoon in right hand for Curry & Rice.

The Meat was well infused by the Spice. The Spice Level was more than – Medium – not demanding. The Seasoning was decidedly lacking. Still, a good earthy blast of Flavour hit the palate. No smokiness, yet there was a threatening cherry-shaped Red Chilli staring at me. I took a bite, nothing happened, better not to swallow. An even larger Red Chilli crossed the table, this we both avoided. The Big Onions proved to be a distraction from the Meat alone.

With the Thick Masala shrouding the Lamb, there was still enough to declare this Curry to be a fine example of  – Sukka. Curry this Dry in Berlin, until today, unheard of. Having eaten loads, I still had five big pieces of Lamb and some Rice to deal with. Time to abandon the remaining Paratha which, by this time, was an unappealing blob.

Marg had allocated me a spoonful of her Masala, I thought this might revitalise what sat before me. Oh, it most certainly did.

Lamb Chettinad

Topped with Ginger Strips and slices of Coconut, the Masala was significantly different from the – Mainstream. There was no Shorva here, this was a decent, Thick Masala. Again, the Meat count reached – plenty.

Marg’s verdict:

It was earthy and full of smokey flavour. The ginger strips and dried coconut made an appealing contrast to the masala. Did not require too much Rice and my small piece of (flaky?) Paratha allowed me to mop up my dish.

As Marg was arranging the Meat and Masala on her Rice, I tried a Soupçon of the Masala. Stunning, a definite – Wow! This Masala was true to Chettinad in terms of Flavour, moderately Spiced, well Seasoned, and the big South Indian Curry blast. The latter marked the contrast to the Sukka.

At the end of the meal, when the spoonful of Masala reached my plate, there was the opperchancity to celebrate further. Firstly, I bit into some Ginger which aroused the palate, then a whole Clove, another – Wow?

This was a Chettinad of pedigree. This was a non-Soupy Chettinad. This was a Chettinad being served in Berlin.

The trek across the city had proved to be a wise decision.

GapShap had earned respect in the city where Curry, apart from the aforementioned, sets low targets.

How was the Chilli? – asked the chap who cleared the table.

I decided you could have it.

Safe.

The Bill

€45.20 (£38.20)

The Aftermath

By the time of payment,  I had established that Mein Host was called Shubbam.

Introductions over, it was time to talk – Curry – and the Curry Houses of Berlin. The brackets, showing the number of visits, is as close as Curry-Heute gets to scoring or ranking. I did point towards the bottom of the Berlin Curry House list, where Bahadur sits, and shall remain.

The lack of Seasoning in the Sukka had to be raised, the outstanding Chettinad was complimented. Shubbam told me of special evenings where the food is served on Banana Leaves.  Bananas, has Hector’s life not done enough here? The chances of ever experiencing one of these events is remote. Weekends excepted, where noon opening differs, 17.00 does not fit with the pattern of a Hector day in Berlin. Berlin life is in the East. I must try to get back here. Next time, the Lamb Chettinad for Hector. Thereafter, it may be worth exploring the Kashmiri Rogan Josh (€18.90), and if the dreaded Capsicum can be withheld, the Kadhai Gosht (€19.90).

A photo was required, let’s all get in.

GapShap, there is Curry in West Berlin.

2023 Menu

 

 

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Berlin – Chutnify – Visit #4, Review #5

Between April and November last year, Hector visited Chutnify (Sredzkistraße 43, 10435 Berlin Deutschland) on three occasions, the South Indian Cuisine with its Smokey/Peppery Flavours being the magnet. No other Berlin Curry House known to Hector was serving Curry with this intensity of distinctive Flavours. Having learned of their other outlets in Portugal, Hector and Marg made a beeline to Chutnify Canteen (Porto) earlier this year. What a disaster! With no Fish or Lamb available, the Hector was forced to have a – Chicken Curry. I’ll let the reader discover my verdict on that experience.

Today, all forgiven and back on familiar ground, we wondered around Prenzlauer Berg before deciding it was Curry-Zeit @13.15. A familiar face greeted us, a table inside was requested. The other diners had chosen to sit outside, today it was warm enough to do so. This was the first time I had seen the interior of the restaurant so empty. Booking is recommended if coming of an evening.

We were brought a lunchtime menu plus the main menu. Prices have not increased since last November. For Hector it had to be Telangana Lamb available at either €14.00 or €19.00 depending on the menu, Basmati Rice included. For a change, Marg was having Lamb Thali (€15.50). To complete the Order: a 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water (€6.00) and Malabar Parotta (€3.00). This king of Breads is served as a pair, try getting one for this price in the UK.

I pointed to the main menu when ordering the Telangana Lamb. I also asked for the food to be served – hot.

I’ll tell them – was the acknowledgement.

On previous visits, the food was simply not served hot enough. The message relayed, was taken seriously. Hector’s Curry bowl was too hot to touch on its arrival, Marg did not find the components of her Thali to be so.

As prevails across Europe, the quantity of Rice presented was more than a Hector could manage. One does one’s best.

The Malabar Parotta were scrunched in a small bowl, I managed to find the space to open one out fully. Multi-layered, buttery, soft, stringy, yet crispy in parts, this Paratha variant is such a joy. Rice and Bread, indulgence, but the opperchancity to have a Malabar Parotta is not to be missed. Marg would assist.

Telangana Lamb

Previous encounters have featured dry Red Chillies floating in the Shorva, not today. I counted nine pieces of Meat as I decanted, most of these would be halved, so quite a plateful. One piece of Potato was present also, usually more.

I think an alarm bell was ringing already.

Calm. The Spice was pitched at a worthy level, not demanding, but significantly better than what is served across Mainstream Berlin Curry Houses. The Seasoning was a la Hector, all was set for the Flavours to emerge from the Shorva. Dipping pieces of Parotta into the retained Masala was one half of the eating experience. Then there was the Curry & Rice.

The Meat at Chutnify has always impressed, superbly Tender. Sampling a piece of the Potato almost brought a – Wow! – moment. The Potato had fully absorbed the Flavours from the Shorva, I wanted more! Why only the one piece?

Returning to the Meat it was apparent that it was not giving back the same intensity of Flavour, but how could it? Potato in a Curry, such a simple, but effective addition.

The Peppery Flavour was clearly present, the anticipated Smokiness not. Was this down to the missing Red Chillies?

There was still enough – good – happening here. I have been to enough Berlin Curry Houses to know how poor the opposition is. Days after my last visit here I did discover the then recently opened Punjabi Zaiqa. A totally different brand of Curry altogether, but what Berlin badly needed. Chutnify should satisfy the needs of most serious Curry eaters. For those who appreciate why Lamb on-the-bone offers so much more, Punjabi Zaiqa is the place to be.

Lamb Thali

It is evident that Thali is the choice of the majority at Chutnify.

Half a Poppadom sat atop a mass of Basmati, with the spoonful of Chutney adjacent. One was not going to leave Chutnify feeling hungry. The same Telangana Lamb with four – and a bit – pieces of Meat was the focal point. Thereafter, Soupçons of Vegetable Korma and a Daal occupied two of the three remaining slots on the school dinner tray. Cauliflower, Broccoli and Carrots sat in the Coconut Sauce. The Daal proved to be the superior – Daal Makhani. This makes a fine accompaniment to any Curry.

Dessert – was a listed component, a single Gulab Jamun sat in the corner. I wonder how many people have started with this?

Diversity is something I enjoy, yet I still find Thali to be – too bitty. Bring me a half kilo of Lamb on-the-bone, something to get stuck into. And maybe some Daal Makhani on the side.

Marg cleared her tray and had much to say thereafter:

A lovely selection of tastes brought together on a metal tray. The Lamb was very tender and the sauce thin and spicy. The Daal complemented the wonderful, crispy Parotta exceptionally well. The abundance of Rice soaked up the extra Vegetable sauce and amused me. It was fun.

Finishing on a sweet note was an excellent conclusion to my meal. Sweet syrup and a tasty sponge was the Dessert.

Meanwhile, across the table, the Hector was defeated by the quantity of Rice.

The Bill

€38.50 (£33.19) The Telangana Lamb was charged at €14.00, the lunchtime menu price. Does this explain the missing Red Chillies and minimal Potato?

The Aftermath

Farewells were brief. The customers outside always have the staff busy running in and out.

Much later, there was a football match in Nederland, ah well, so it goes.

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Berlin – Punjabi Zaiqa – Visit #5 – Korma Trumps Karahi?

It was only on landing at Berlin Brandenburg that Marg and Hector became aware of the Air Traffic Control hiatus back home. Sometimes you win. Having checked in to our favourite Ibis, it was up to Osloer Strasse on the U8. Curry before Bier.

Punjabi Zaiqa (Tromsöer Strasse 6, 13359 Berlin Deutschland) is the only known source of – proper Curry – in Berlin. Originale Pakistanische Künche – is their tagline, is it any wonder that the Hector makes a beeline to this outstanding venue?

Arriving at 17.10, Marg spotted Fisch Curry (€7.90) on the board outside. Hector was back for the Lamm Korma (€12.90) first enjoyed here last November, and after April’s visit, it appears to be Hector’s #1 choice. Korma trumps Karahi?

Hello, how are you? – was the greeting from Adnan, the ever-present Tandoori Chef behind the counter. It is good to be recognised. A litre bottle of Sparkling Water was taken from the fridge and the Order placed. Hector prefers Rice with a Desi Korma, Marg was intent on having Bread. One Rice and one Naan (€2.90) was added. I assumed that the mass of pre-cooked Lamb on-the-bone which was on display would form the basis of my Curry.

The Rice is included – I was reminded. On offering to pay, I was invited to do so afterwards.

Two things to highlight at this point: the price of Fish being significantly lower than Lamb, and still the Rice is inclusive. One has to wonder how this can be achieved in mainland Europe.

Marg wanted to sit further in, I insisted we have a peripheral table from where all could be observed. Marg concurred that the décor, ambience here, was a cut above many a Curry Cafe. A few people were finishing their meals, in time, a young couple with an unruly wean did take the far corner table. Tantrum after tantrum, a mouthful of Vindaloo would have sorted her.

After a respectable twenty five minute wait a chap started to assemble the bits.

They like to bring everything out on trays – I had advised Marg. A Salad amused Marg for the final minutes before the mass of food was presented.

They like their Salads in Germany – remarked Marg.

I was interested in establishing if this was a German Salad with the customary Vinegar dressing, apparently not. Raita reigns supreme.

The Rice, featuring green Cardamom, was enough for three/four, classic Euro wastage. Trying to make a dent in the mountain, I took a larger plateful than my norm. Marg had around half a plateful, helping out.

The round Naan was served whole. Perforated and with Seeds, it was suitably light and fluffy.

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Lamm Korma

What a magnificent sight. Could you get more Curry in the karahi? I stopped counting as I passed double figures whilst decanting the Meat to the plate of Rice. There were Boneless pieces of Lamb then dem large bones, from who knows where? Sucky Bones also featured. This would be a lot of eating. The Thick Masala oozed quality. Once again, the Herb content was obvious, the cooked in Green Chillies, less so.

The intensity of Flavour was hard to believe. The Seasoning matched the Hector idyll, the Spice Level would build. Every moment of this Desi Korma was going to be special, yet I would say it was markedly different from that enjoyed here previously. The first time I had the Lamm Korma at Punjabi Zaiqa it was comparable in taste to that served at Karahi Palace (Glasgow). Things have changed at the latter since then, and the Desi Korma I enjoyed there two days ago was approaching this. Today, no sense of Citrus, the Yoghurt flecks were not apparent. This Lamm Korma was a completely new taste experience.

Such was the size of some pieces of Meat, I had to use a knife to separate them from the Bones. Most fell apart. Tender Lamb, full of Flavour, – Muttony – was noted. By the time I added the reserved Masala, it was time to draw a line on the plate. Even more Rice would be abandoned.

Until then, it was a case of savour the moment. Lamm Korma, how can this be so good? Early last year I had almost reached the stage of – why bother having Curry in Berlin. Now it’s a matter of how often can I get to Punjabi Zaiqa?

Fisch Curry

The karahi was laden with Fish in a Thick Masala. I doubt if I have ever seen so much Fish in a Curry. Again, check the price. Always on the lookout for a decent Fish Curry, the Hector was keen to establish the quality.

Is it good – I asked, somewhat rhetorically.

Mmmm, lovely.

A Soupçon would cross the table, compared to my Curry far too sweet. To what extent this was down to the sharp contrast remains unknown. However, that this was not the same Masala as the Korma was established. I suspect Marg would be happy to have this again:

A thick, rich sauce, with a sweetness that suited the Fish which was crispy in parts, and full of flavour. An abundance of Fish with Rice, mopped up with the Naan. A very enjoyable meal.

Marg wasn’t finished. There was an Ice Cream menu. The menu photos of Ice Cream brimming over the pot did not match the tiny pot of solid Mango Kulfi which was presented.

The Bill

€32.40 (£27.86)     We had been fed.

The Aftermath

Adnan was busy as we took our leave, I’ll see him again.

Next door lies a Punjabi Grocer/Butcher. The opperchancity to purchase packets of Korma Spices was taken. How does Desi Korma differ from Karahi?

Posted in Punjabi Zaiqa | 1 Comment

Glasgow – Karahi Palace (New-co #2) – Visit #5 – My Favourite Curry?

Moiz has now been in charge at Karahi Palace (New-co #2) (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) for three months. The Karahi Lamb (£12.00) has been restored to something resembling the wonder that has been served on these premises for many years. Visit #5 in Curry-Heute is customarily when venues gain entry to – Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses – and locally to – Glasgow’s Top Rated. Today’s visit proved to be something special, the revised status more than justified.

I had already informed Moiz that I would be coming at 14.00 today. Having kept count, he was aware of the significance of this visit. Last night Moiz contacted me to advise that having prepared Lamb Desi Korma for a catering contract, he could keep me a portion. This was an opperchancity not to be missed, even though I have one planned elsewhere for Monday.

Since establishing the extreme pleasure that was the Lamb Spicy Korma (£10.00) as served at the original Karahi Palace, I have usually had Mushroom Rice (£5.00) as the accompaniment. Moiz convinced me I should have Bread. A Chilli and Coriander Naan was agreed.

I took my usual spot, the table was being wiped clean as I entered. Behold the new black covering which is due to be rolled out across the ground floor tables.

Sparkling Water? Finally, at last, Hector’s preferred tipple is being stocked. Shkoor (Yadgar) are you reading this?

All was set.

I watched the final minutes of the football in Dingwall, a comparatively easy victory. I didn’t know then that the day was about to get even better.

The round Naan was served whole! In addition to the Coriander, both red and green sliced Chillies were embedded. These appear to have restricted the rising in the centre of the Naan, the periphery was suitably light and fluffy. A sensible size, I would manage all but a scrap, most unusual.

Lamb Desi Korma

The metal pot was a first. Bullet Chillies had been cut lengthways, no shortage of Chillies then. The thin, blended Masala contained the telltale white flecks, Yoghurt, not Cream. And no Coconut, Desi Korma bears little resemblance to that served in the Mainstream Curry Houses. I counted eight pieces of Meat featuring one Sucky Bone and two pieces of sinew. Had I stuck to my guns and ordered Rice, the Masala would have disappeared. Today, the Naan proved to be the ideal accompaniment.  More Masala required?

Hot food, always appreciated. The first intake revealed a big blast of Spice. The Seasoning was spot on. The distinctive Desi Korma Flavour was present, almost Citrus. Perhaps serving this Curry with sliced Lemon would accentuate the Flavour further? Pepperiness was coming across, a touch of Namkeen also? This Curry was already impressing, then there was the Lamb, wtf?

I write too often about Meat not giving back enough Flavour. This Lamb had clearly sat overnight in the Masala. The Spice given back was a veritable explosion on the palate. This super-soft Lamb was Super Spicy! On a scale of one to ten, this was – eleven! With Chillies everywhere, I had considered avoiding the Bullets, these were tame once I had started on the Meat.

Tears in the eyes, runny nose, there are no photos, just as well. This Curry was – the full works. Magnificent, all a Desi Korma can be. It was finished all too soon, the Hector wanted more! This was always the case when this was my favourite Curry as served along the street at The Village. They don’t do it as well as they used to.

Anything else? – asked Moiz.

Next time, keep me a half-kilo!

Moiz announced that he could cook a Desi Korma at any time, though admitted that it is better done in batches. Maybe I’ll find someone to share the kilo? (Curryspondent Derek?)

At the end, with a mouth on fire, the Sparkling Water was thoroughly appreciated. Bubbles too. Green Tea was then offered, and graciously accepted. Tea does highlight the Spice before tempering the palate.

Moiz bade farewell, he was off for supplies. I was told his colleague would handle the payment.

The Bill

Unknown. I was advised that I could pay next time. I shall insist.

The Aftermath

The rain had stopped, momentarily.

On Monday, Lamb Desi Korma, with Rice! And Marg will be there to witness the moment.

 

Posted in [Handi By Darbar] | 1 Comment

Glasgow – Namaste by Delhi Darbar – Bouncing Back To The Mainstream

Having only become aware of the existence of Namaste by Delhi Darbar (St Enoch Centre 1st Floor, 55 St Enoch Square, Glasgow G1 4BW) in recent weeks, it meant there were now three venues in Glasgow on the – to do – list. Reviews elsewhere are positive, but not all specifically about the Curry.

I doubt if I have set foot in the St Enoch Centre since Debenhams closed. Apparently, facade aside, the whole kaboodle is due for demolition. Walking through the various levels today, people are already pulling out of what is now a sorry sight in terms of retail.

It was established that Namaste is close to the cinema, the Hector took escalators all the way to the top assuming movies had replaced ice-skating. The mini-Vegas took me by surprise. The cinema is at the opposite end, where BHS used to be.

Two diners were visible in Namaste as I entered the restaurant at 13.57. Regular readers will appreciate that such a precise time is building up to, well, wait and see. The waitress placed me near the fellow diners, such that I could hear their conversation, no need for this in such large, empty premises. Window dressing, but without windows.

I had previously  studied the menu on-line and was therefore aware that there was only one Lamb Curry on the menu which was worthy of the Hector. For the record, and the nth time, Capsicum does not belong in authentic Karahi and Hector does not recognise Chicken Curry. This is Curry-Heute and that is how it is.

Lamb Bhoona (£10.00) and Basmati Pilau Rice (£4.00) was the Order, plus tap water. There was little point ordering Bread and leaving half of it, as tends to be the case. Four quid for Rice, that could be a hefty portion.

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Taking in the surroundings, it was evident that many Shekels had been invested in the décor. I would have appreciated seeing the premises from the inside, looking out. What happens to all this in the coming future?

The India Club at Hotel Strand Continental (Westminster) – will close on September 17. This is sad news, developers having their way there too. The long established India Club, formerly the staff canteen for the Indian Embassy, is one of only a handful of Curry Houses in Britain where the simple, straightforward – Curry – is that exceptional, one could pick it out in a line-up. One more visit is scheduled, if we can get in.

At Namaste, there was always the hope that Chef had something special waiting, something distinctive, this is always the hope when visiting any new Curry venue. I didn’t have long to wait, eight minutes after taking my seat, the food arrived. Call in the chaps from Guinness.

The Curry was in a soup plate, the Rice on a platter, no third plate. Why do restaurants do this? Adding Rice to a plate of Curry feels absurd.

The portion was standard, every grain would be managed.

This £4.00 portion was not for sharing.

Lamb Bhoona

The reasonably Thick Masala contained Syboes and featured seven pieces of Meat, not the magical eight. Rice was definitely the correct accompaniment, whilst not as – soupy – as my recent Bhuna in Köln, I had nothing to compare it with here. If this was – Bhuna – then what is their Curry like?

Finely chopped Onions and traces of Herb had been added to the blended Masala. Having counted the Meat, twice, it was decided that six pieces were worthy of halving, else all could have been devoured in a time comparable to its serving.

The Sweetness of the Masala hit first. The Seasoning was moderate to low. Having billed the Spice as being – medium strength – this quite impressed, a modest – kick.

The Lamb was super-soft, minimal chewing required. Decent Meat, but it was not giving anything back in terms of Spice or acquired Flavour. Tomato became evident in terms of Flavour, no skins/seeds were visible, no Whole Spices. There was a Seed in the Rice which I could not identify.

I have had this Curry, in effect, a hundred times. This was what passes for – Curry – across the European continent. Mainstream Curry for the masses, nothing offensive, safe, easy to eat. I know people who would happily devour this.

How I am going to miss the Curry at The India Club.

The Bill

£14.50   Look back to last Monday.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was given to the waitress, my Curry preferences and travels were duly described. This was just Curry – felt like an appropriate summary.

If the Calling Card was passed up the chain of management, nobody came to talk.

Next Monday’s Curry will be something – very special.

Posted in Namaste by Delhi Darbar | 1 Comment

Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – Sometimes A Great Notion

When Dr. Stan sat beside the Hector on Thursday at Kabana (Manchester) with his Rice & Three, the sight of the Spinach on his plate was enough to plant the notion. Back home, briefly, well it is the time of the year for – trip overload, the choice of venue and Curry was already decided: Kofta Palak (£11.95) at The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA).

A decade or so back, Dr. Stan and Hector used to wind up Hassan/Lahcen at Cafe Salma by sharing a portion of Kofta Palak as – Dessert. Dr. Stan was briefly tempted to join me at 14.00, had he done so, he would avoided a soaking a couple of hours later. Hector’s seemingly personal rain cloud was taking it out on someone else today. I keep asking – where is summer?

Eight diners were in situ as I was invited to take a small table in the middle of the room. More would take their place, a steady trickle. Saturday afternoon Curry.

The Order was taken promptly, a Tawa Chapatti (£1.25) would accompany, a jug of tap water would be sufficient liquid. Above Medium – was noted for the level of Spice. Everything was recorded on paper. Pads no more?

My last visit here was for Dr. Stan’s Birthday Curry at the end of May. Slowly the number of reviews at The Village heads towards #100. However, prior to Curry-Heute, Hector would eat here three times a week if circumstances permitted. The halcyon days.

For Hector, the – Lamb – section of the menu is a focal point: Methi Gosht and Achari Gosht have been had oft. Kofta Kirahi has yet to be tried. Apart from – Pineapple – I wonder what the difference is between Daal Gosht and Dhansak Gosht.

The Tawa Chapatti was a good size, in other words, more Bread than a Hector can manage. Fluffy, and with a hint of layering, this was a delightfully soft Chapatti. The soft texture maintained, and the Wholemeal Flavour did not overwhelm.

The presentation of the Raita puzzled.  This played no part in my meal.

Kofta Palak

With but a threat of Coriander atop, five medium-sized Meatballs sat in the Thickest of Herb-rich Masala mashes. The Oil which would become visible at the base of the karahi was enough to confirm that there had been a Masala at some point.

I have no understanding as to why the desire for Spinach becomes so strong once the notion is triggered. Scooping the Masala Mash on to pieces of Chapatti marked the beginning of a series of intense moments of Flavour. The Masala Mash was well Seasoned, Earthy in Flavour with a slight bitter taste.

The quantity of Mince did not seem to suggest a favourable ratio to the Masala Mash, even after each Meatball was cut into four. The Kofta had distinctly less Seasoning, but it was from these Meatballs that the Spice Level built steadily. Mouthfuls of Chapatti/Masala Mash alternated with Kofta/Masala Mash. Thus the maximum pleasure was extracted, until…biting into a Cumin Seed released an explosion of Flavour on the palate.

With the notion for Spinach sated, it was time to consult the trusty – Oppo – and see if the chaps along the road at Ibrox could come back after losing a penalty.

All was well.

The Bill

£13.20   Bigger price, smaller portion, than this week’s indulgences in Manchester.

The Aftermath

With no familiar staff to chat to, it was back out to face the elements and what is passing for summer in Glasgow in 2023. At least the buses were running properly after the much lauded international cycling event.

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Manchester – Kabana – All Good Things

The final day of this trip: this means the Hector does not have to have Curry tomorrow, though thoughts of Kofta Palak on Saturday are already looming! In keeping with the name of this Blog, another Manchester Curry had to be squeezed in. 13.20 at Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England) was a good time to arrive, the lunchtime rush being over.

Rizwan was keen to tell me that Craig and Yvonne had been in earlier, their third visit in four days. The less said about their choice of Chicken and Capsicum, the better. Kabana has something for everyone, Vegans too, I had to verify this a bit since on behalf of a friend.

Rizwan was able to tell them that I had been up at the other Kabana (Cheetham Hill) yesterday, having Quail. He also informed me that two chaps from Edinburgh had been in, followers of Curry-Heute – home and abroad!

Followers, but not Curryspondents, unless I have missed something. Do get in touch!

Today’s Curry, a repeat of a successful creation had here in January. I can just about get away with calling it – Fish Karahi. I am able to quote the elements and their prices based on the posted menu. The cost of the crowning ingredient would be established at the time of paying. Fried Fish (£5.50), Rice (£2.00), Salad (£0.50), and a bowl of the Masala from the Karahi Lamb (£?.??).

Marg, who had not had Curry since Monday, was happy to order her favourite once again: Keema Peas (£6.50) and a Chapatti (£1.00).

We took a table in the back corner, a bit of a squeeze, but such is the seating at Kabana. Marg was facing the counter, Hector had the wall.

Rizwan brought a plateful of the – foliage. The Coriander was back. Was that all I was getting? Emoticon understood.

Keema Peas

This portion had Oil collecting on the edge of the bowl whereas Monday’s had not. One of The Company had remarked on the quantity of Peas. If one is not adding Potato, then let’s have a decent quantity of Peas. After the ritual photo, Marg added a modest sprinkling of Coriander and some Ginger, not Green Chillies.

I liked the little bit of Coriander and Ginger I added.

The Chapatti shows clear signs of having risen, this was beautiful Bread.

A Creation – Fish Karahi

The Fish was presented on top of the Rice, and adjacent to the Salad and Raita. Spiced Onions had been squeezed on to the plate also.

A standard-huge Kabana portion.

As I decanted some of the Masala so I was amused to find Sucky Bones! Rizwan had given me the Masala from the better of the two Karahi pots.

There was still the – foliage – to add.

It was good to have Spiced Onions without the oft used red food colouring. Crunchy, Spicy, this would give additional Texture to the Creation, as would the Salad components.

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The Fish produced an instant – Wow! It was difficult to determine if the coating was a fine Batter or Breadcrumbs. Rizwan would later confirm – Batter – and a secret recipe. Coley (Saithe/Pollock) from the Cod family gives off a potent sense of – Fishiness, just what the Hector seeks. White and firm, nothing – rubbery – here. Without the Masala, this would not have been – Curry. Using the Masala sparingly to cover the Fish and maintain the moistness of the Rice, the Creation was living up to expectation.

Rizwan came over to chat, he talks to all his customers. Yesterday’s Quail was discussed. Sweet with a kick – was how Rizwan described the accompanying Masala. Exactly as Hector has written.

Why have I only seen Paul and not his brother – Mani – in recent visits?

Mani doesn’t work on Wednesdays.

No Quail for Mani.

Rice & Three

From her advantageous viewpoint, Marg saw the arrival of Dr. Stan, his second Curry in three days. Dr. Stan moves in mysterious ways as was established recently in Brussel. The Good Doctor had Rice & Three (£9.50): Spinach + Potatoes, Keema Peas, and Karahi Lamb. By restricting my space further, we managed to squeeze him onto the table beside me. Opposite would have been impossible.

The Hector was still eating, the tail of the Coley and the remaining Masala. It was decided that the Rice which was still white would be abandoned.

Satisfaction achieved.

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Mags came in. Karahi Lamb on-the-bone and a Chapatti for Mags. This was reviewed once more earlier this week.

With no chance of sitting at ours, she secured the back middle table which in theory can accommodate six. The seating and tables move, flexibility is the name of the game. Everyone is accommodated.

Six of The Company had eaten at Kabana today, and four others earlier in the week.

The Bill

£17.00   I deduce the bowl of Masala was £1.50, £2.00 at most if the Salad and Onions are part of the Fried Fish order.

The Aftermath

Rizwan was chuffed with himself for adding the Sucky Bones. He even used this vernacular. It had to be.

Once again, Rizwan offered to cook me a Fish Karahi given notice. If there’s a Manchester Beer Festival next year and we once again return mob handed, the challenge will be set.

Stepping outside, I had to record the graffiti opposite, this sums up the last six weeks:

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