In the coming weeks, Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) will be transformed and rebranded as – Handi By Darbar. So Moiz, Mein Host, informed me this afternoon after another excellent Karahi Lamb (£12.00). This identifies the link with Darbar Grill which is run by Ahmed, Moiz’s father.
When Moiz took over Karahi Palace at the start of June this year, he outlined his plans to upgrade the décor in this humble establishment. Mehfil – was then mooted as a likely new moniker, Handi by Darbar it is to be.
Handi – is a serving pot. Today, Moiz posed with the copper version in which my Lamb Desi Korma was served last month. In my first visits to Karahi Palace it was the much missed clay pots which were used. Many a menu has – Handi – as a Curry in its own right. Moiz confirmed my empirical conclusion that a – Handi – can be anything Chef desires. When the Hector orders a Handi, it is usually in the hope of discovering something special, a departure from the Mainstream. Sometimes this works.
Arriving at 13.40, Moiz was upstairs preparing for a function this evening. His assistant took the Order. The Vegetable Curry on display (centre) looked inviting. Hector was not about to be distracted, no Karahi Gosht for five weeks. Since then, the aforementioned Desi Korma both here and at Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin), Bateera and Fish Masala in Manchester, Telangana and Sukka in Berlin, and both Palak and Methi Gosht in Wroclaw.
Why all the travelling? – a Curryspondent once asked.
Can you make your site more of a blog and not Hector’s favourite curry houses – accused another.
Aye right.
Late September is going to be the start of another month of Bier-Traveller and Curry-Heute. Favourite places revisited, and hopefully some worthy new venues reviewed.
Taking no chances, I advised – Assistant/Chef – the Hector tweaks: a bit more Salt, a bit more Methi. A Chilli and Coriander Nan would accompany, no Garlic.
I looked in the fridge no Sparkling Water. Sold out! Clearly there is no demand for Sparkling Water.
The young lady brought me a bottle of chilled tap water after she had finished sweeping the floor. Another young lady entered enquiring as to vacancies, followed by two chaps who sought, who knows what? They bought nothing.
Assistant – was then able to get to work. A modest Salad and Raita were provided. The chilled Raita was super-refreshing, an amuse-bouche. Is Hector’s stomach still on CET? The wait for the main event was appropriate.
The lady brought the food. No Garlic on the Naan, as requested. What happened to the Chillies? I would soon realise that a Coriander Naan (£2.00) is really all I needed. Served whole, the size was sensible. Soft and light, I would manage more than usual. Whilst I still prefer the Tandoori, tear-shaped, risen and puffy interpretation of Naan, this proved to be most satisfactory.
*
Karahi Lamb
So who needed Chillies in the Naan? The mass of sliced Bullet Chillies would provide the boost to the underlying spice Level of the Tomato-based Masala.
Hot food, it’s only when one is served steaming-hot food, that one recognises that this is not the norm.
The Seasoning was pitched a la Hector such that the distinctive Flavour of Karahi as now served on these premises was coming across. There was a rich, Tomatoey-Spice hit, not Charsi, something more satisfying, almost a tang. The peripheral Oil was soaked up by the Naan, more Flavour, more pleasure. The Meat was right on the edge, so soft, minimal chewing. Any more cooking and it would have turned to pulp. Three bones, one – Sucky – joy of joys. Meat that gives off more than – meatiness – not too much to ask, but in the Mainstream, evidently so. As the base of the black karahi revealed itself one sensed the osmosis, the years of quality Karahi that has been served on these premises. Serve – Curry in the Handi – please keep these wonderful black karahi for the Hector’s Karahi Gosht.
It was towards the end of the meal when Moiz made his appearance. Our conversion covered many topics, the lack of a true – Curry Street – in Glasgow was raised. The cluster around Allison Street being as close as we have.
The Bill
£14.00 – said Moiz.
Make it £25.00 – was Hector’s reply.
Honour restored, I wasn’t charged last month.
The Aftermath
With meat trapped in every gap – where’s my Zahnstocher? – was muttered on the bus back across the river.