Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – A Mixed Bag

Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley were last at The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA) for the Ramadan Buffet. Dr. Stan would join us for the 14.30 rendezvous.

At first, the waitress offered us one of the booth style tables mid-room. Clearly, five of us would not fit on this. Instead, I pointed to the area of seating under the balcony. Never having sat here previously, this was a new perspective. Seasonal decorations confirmed that the nadir of sunlight looms. Marg loves this time of year, the Hector, well, one plays along.

The Lahori Lunch Menu (£8.95) was provided, although this suited Marg, I asked for the main menu, some serious Curry eating beckoned.

Maggie quickly spotted the kilo, Tawa Kirahi  (£49.95), that’s even dearer than London prices, ouch, and no thanks. Yesterday at Staggs (Musselburgh) whilst celebrating Clive’s Big birthday, Jim declared that we are overdue going out for the kilo of Karahi Gosht, we won’t be having it here.

The thought of facing a plate of Meat remained daunting. Then there was last Thursday’s near overdose of Spinach at Kabana (Manchester) which somehow appeared not to have sated the appetite. In conversation with Dr. Stan, I had declared my intention to have Kofta Palak (£12.95), Nan Bread (£3.25) to accompany. The Village is the only Glasgow Curry House known to Curry-Heute where this wondrous creation is available seven days a week. I fully expected Dr. Stan to follow suit, however, so rare are his visits here, he was not for missing out on The Village classic – Lamb Desi Qorma (£14.95) accompanied by Veggie Rice (£3.95). Wot, no Mushrooms?

I had promised Clive his favoured Keema Naan (£4.95). Perhaps thereafter, the choice of Curry would be incidental. What does a man have with a Keema Naan? Keema Mutter (£12.50)! Can a man have too much Mince?

Maggie was all over the menu. In her own time she found Dhansak Gosht (£13.95) and announced Mushroom Rice (£3.95), to share. Such is the modest portion of Rice at The Village, the Hector wouldn’t be sharing a portion of Rice with anyone.

From the Lahori Lunch Menu, Marg chose Vegetable Pakora, then Lamb Curry with the two Chapatti option. She only ever eats one. A glass of Mango Lassi (£3.50) was her indulgence for the day.

Not to be outdone, Maggie announced a Starter – Vegetable Pakora (£4.95). Unlike two days ago at Curry Pot, Dr. Stan was not tempted to follow her lead. Maggie ordering a Starter usually leads to half of her main course being abandoned.

The waitress took the Order. Dr. Stan discovered that his Desi Qorma would be served on-the-bone regardless of his preference. Maggie pitched a – medium – Spice Level, Hector – medium plus, whilst Clive opted for – Spicy.

The Hector has learned not to ask for – Spicy – at The Village. Depending on which Chef is on duty, Spicy can end in tears. Clive would manage whatever came his way.

Jugs of tap water was the only tipple, well, apart from the Mango Lassi which appeared to be good value. Who drinks with a straw?

Vegetable Pakora

Today was the first time I have seen the Lunch Menu and full portion side by side. Three pieces versus five, and the latter had the extra Dip.

Once again, a piece of Pakora came Hector’s way, for review purposes. Despite the likelihood of having been double fried, the Pakora tasted fresh.

There was an instant blast of Spice, the Seasoning impressed also. Decent Pakora. The main participants had their say.

Marg – Crispy on the outside, potato, vegetables & spice on the inside. Enjoyed the red & sweet sauce to dip the Pakora into. A very small salad accompanied the dish. 

Maggie – odd number 7 pieces. They were tasty and large.

I counted – five.

There was an appropriate wait before the mains were presented.

As expected, Marg only had one of her Chapattis, and Hector just over half of the Plain Naan. Served in quarters, I forgot to ask for it to be served whole. This was as poor a Naan as I have encountered for some time. Thin, the merest hint of burnt blisters forming, unrisen and a hint of Wholemeal Flour as with the Chapatti, totally uninteresting.

The Keema Naan was similarly served in bits. I always look for individual grains of Mince, here was the lesser Paste/Donner-like sheet spread across the interior. It was duly devoured, so Clive had no issues.

Dr. Stan, sitting at the far end of the table, did not disclose what Vegetables were mixed through his Veggie Rice. Other than a piece of something green, the photo reveals zilch. The Mushroom Rice was as Hector usually orders when having a – Curry – at The Village. Curry Pot (Partick) has set the standard for this accompaniment, as was confirmed by four of us two days ago.

Kofta Palak

Four Meatballs were smothered by the Spinach-rich Masala. The Meatballs themselves were lacking both Seasoning and Spice.

A bit peely-wally, I had to wonder what had happened here. The Seasoning in the Masala was a tad below the Hector idyll. Still, there was a good blast with the Spice building towards – medium-plus – as asked for.

In my mind throughout was the same Dish as served at Karachi (Bradford). I’m sure The Village has matched this level of satisfaction for a Kofta Palak previously, not today.

Lamb Curry

The smaller karahi for the Lunchtime Menu, this quantity definitely suits Marg. I didn’t have to sample this to know that this wold be a fine example of The Village Curry. 

Marg: A smaller dish, with a thick rich red sauce full of spice and flavour. Large pieces of tender lamb cut easily and I used the Chapatti to pick up these smaller pieces. A very satisfying meal with the Mango Lassi a perfect change.

*

*

*

Dhansak Gosht

Daal – said the waiter as he placed the karahi on the table. I had to assure Maggie that Daal/Dhansak is the same thing.  How this offering was allowed to leave the kitchen baffles this observer. Swimming in Oil, the excess should surely have been dabbed off. Large Lentils, I think we both expected more of a – mash.

Once Maggie got underway, I had to ask about the quantity of Meat in her Curry. I could see none. Maggie assured me there had been plenty, she had eaten it.

To deal with the Oil, I advised Maggie to stir it into the Lentils, there was an appreciation that here lay the Flavour. In the end, half a karahi of Daal was abandoned.

*

Maggie: Large portion, the first thing I noticed was the ghee. Too much for me, needed a good stir as all the spice was in the ghee. Large pieces of lamb no gristle. Mushroom rice large portion enough to share. Not as good as Curry Pot. 

*

*

Keema Mutter

The peripheral Oil was a bit more than required. Again, once mixed in, fine. I have never dared to have a Keema Naan with Keema, maybe I should try it. Clive:

I asked for it spicy, it was. The spice level, same as Curry Pot, hot, not too hot.

Texture not oily. And as for the Naan – generous Keema, seems in there.

Lamb Desi Qorma

As has been written oft in these pages, the Curry that made Hector resident at The Village in the pre Curry-Heute days. It’s all about the Masala, viscous, The Village Curry Taste at its finest. To go to The Village and not have this Curry takes self discipline. Dr. Stan:

It was really good, well spiced, tender meat, I’ve forgotten how it was, the Desi Korma.

Quite a mixed bag, varied quality, it’s all down to which Chef is on duty. There is always great Curry to be had at The Village, today, some of us had it.

The Bill

£87.40 Five diners, all well fed, great value.

The Aftermath

Mr. Baig, Mein Host, had acknowledged us in passing. Our departure was low key. After a week on the road, today was the last party. When will Hector sit down and face the now seemingly – daunting task – of facing up to a Lamb Curry?

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Glasgow – Curry Pot – Four Came, To Dine

Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley have reached Scotland. There is a Big Birthday celebration tomorrow, without Curry, so not mine. That gives today and Monday as the Curry opperchancities. Always keen to try new Desi venues, Curry Pot (139 Dumbarton Road, Glasgow G11 6PR) was chosen for today’s Saturday afternoon ritual. Dr. Stan, who has been in our company all week, decided to join us at one of his many local outlets.

14.15 was the rendezvous time, Curry Pot is usually open by 14.00, though Simrat, Mein Host, would later insist they are open from 13.00 on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Curry-Heute has established otherwise.

There was debris on the middle table which accommodates four. This was no ordinary debris. One of the Chefs quickly cleared away a traditional karahi which had contained something definitely not on the menu.

Staff lunch? – I asked.

No, an early customer. So who was and what was had that required the special presentation?

A young lady, who, in time, would become front of house, lit a jostick. Atmosphere. Just how many people were in the kitchen? The start of another busy day at this humble Partick Takeaway with minimal seating.

The Hector was still not in the mood for Lamb and so, wait for it, went for a Vegetarian option – Mixed Vegetable Curry (£7.95). Maggie took my advice and chose Lamb Curry with Ginger (£9.50), the Curry which made me take note earlier this year. Clive was manipulated into having Lamb Karahi (£9.50), the only Lamb Curry at this venue not reviewed to date on Curry-Heute. Clive was willing to take the risk that he would not overdose on Capsicum. Dr. Stan would stick with his customary Lamb Saag (£9.50).

Having enthused at length about the Mushroom Rice (£4.00), which is not on the dine-in menu, three portions would be duly ordered. I assured Simrat that is the only reason why we were here – the best thing on your menu – was delivered, tongue firmly in cheek. Clive would be denied his preferred Keema Naan, a Garlic Naan (£3.75), to share with Maggie, was in order.

I had advised the first time visitors that at Curry Pot, portions here are – Tapas-plus. For Hector, a guaranteed plate clearing quantity, for the others, a Starter was required. Some ridiculously large Starters were mooted, the Hector got things under control. Despite having binged on Takeaway Vegetable Pakora from Delhi Darbar (Dumbarton) last night, Clive and Maggie would share another portion here (£5.95). To this Maggie added Cucumber & Cumin Raita (£2.95). Dr. Stan joined the Pakora brigade.

Having taken the Order, Simrat brought out some Poppadoms and Spiced Onions – to keep you going. This is how it should be.

*

*

*

The Starters duly arrived.

Vegetable Pakora

Six good-sized pieces in each, with the usual Chilli Dip, and a token Salad. A decent presentation, and proper plates with metal cutlery, never to be taken for granted, sadly.

Somehow, a Soupçon came my way. Not to be refused, for critique purposes only.

Well fired, dry to start, the Dip livened things up.

I sat and watched my fellow diners devour their Starters. Maggie overlooked the presence of the tiny tub of Cucumber & Cumin Raita which she had ordered. Dr. Stan had availed himself of this assuming it was included. Simrat, why are you charging £2.95 for this toty offering?

With phone orders aplenty, the chaps in the kitchen were being kept busy. Who has Curry delivered mid Saturday afternoon? One chap did come in to collect his, he studied our fayre closely.

The Mushroom Rice here, well, come and try it. Enough to cover a plate, tasty Rice, and Mushrooms that are always fresh. The Garlic Naan was served in quarters, space here is at a premium I suppose. Pale, but risen and puffy, it is the first Bread I have seen at Curry Pot. Mushroom Rice.

*

Mixed Vegetable Curry

Ginger Strips, a threat of Coriander and chopped Syboes topped the handi full of Vegetables. Cauliflower, at this stage was the standout.

On arranging the Vegetables on top of my plate already filled with Vegetables, Carrot now stood out. Just how much Carrot was there? Green Beans and Peas were uncovered, the latter not listed on the menu. Where was the Potato, the most important of all the Vegetables, surely?

Simrat came out from the kitchen to check all was well.

No Potato? – I put to him, just as I discovered two small pieces.

The abundant Carrot and Cauliflower had just enough crunch. The Potato, such as it was, perfect. Tossed with onion tomato masala – there was just enough here to make it Curry. I feared Soup, enough Masala to create a moist plate of Vegetables.

The Spice Level built towards – medium-plus. The Seasoning was below my level of preference. There was a Sweetness, probably from the Carrots. Curry/Biryani is the only time I eat Green Beans.  Fine when mixed in with an array of Vegetables, awful when served as the only one on the plate, as Mother used to serve them. The wee blast of Flavour from the Peas, always welcome.

Such a variety of Textures, so many Interesting Vegetables, one could get used to this.

More Spuds, less Carrot next time, Simrat, if I ever order a Vegetable Curry again at Curry Pot.

Lamb Curry with Ginger

The Soupiest of the Curry served today, Rice definitely required, however, there are those who enjoy dipping their Bread. I am overdue having this once again. Maggie was positive about her choice from the start:

Portion size was spot on for one. And for those that like a bit more, a Naan Bread or Starter provides a top up.

The spice level was adequate. The meat was very tender. Lots of juice to be mopped up. Could have had more ginger in it as it was in the title of the dish.

Mushroom Rice was excellent.

Lamb Saag

The appearance was decidedly more appealing than that served in the surprisingly enjoyable Spinach + Potatoes had by Hector at Kabana (Manchester) three days ago.

This was a smooth puree of Spinach. Dr. Stan:

Usual good curry, very rich in spinach. Not too hot hot, could have been hotter for me.

Tender meat, enjoyed the half mushrooms.

Enjoyed the Pakora, crispy, spicy, lovely, I was quite hungry.

And now for the big moment. Was the Karahi at Curry Pot the excuse to serve Stir Fry with lots of Onion and Capsicum, or just the cop-out that Mainstream Restaurants serve up?

Lamb Karahi

Topped with Ginger Strips and Coriander, the large pieces of Meat protruded from the decidedly Minimal Masala. So far so good. The Masala appeared to be Tomato-based. I made a point of securing a further photo once Clive had decanted.

Yes, a couple of pieces of Ballast, Simrat has always assured me the Peppers could be withheld. But what would be left. No Big Onions either. This ticked Hector’s boxes, a decent looking Karahi Gosht. I shall be back soonest to sample this. Clive:

Excellent, spice level was spot on between hot and not too hot. Lamb was cooked perfectly, very tender without being cooked to death. The right texture, not soupy. To many peppers for Hector, but not overloaded.

Mushroom Rice was as recommended, lumps of whole mushroom in there.

All plates were effectively wiped clean.

The Bill

£68.50

The Aftermath

Time for an updated photo of Simrat, the last was a decade ago.

I promised to return. But before then, en route today, I spotted Curry Fi on the other side of the railway bridge at Partick. There is a Lamb on-the-bone Korma which needs to be investigated.

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Manchester – Kabana – Iterum

With – The Company – moving north-westwards to Preston, there was a mandatory change of train in Manchester. Unlike Monday’s impromptu visit to Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England), today’s was planned.

Fried Fish (£6.00) was already arranged, my alternate Order here from Lamb Karahi (£7.00). No Fried Rice (£2.00), no Naan, maybe Mix Veg (£5.50) would make the ideal accompaniment?

Arriving at 12.45, both Rizwan, Mein Host, and Laala, Chef and his second in command, were in their positions at the counter. Salutations completed, the availability of Fish was confirmed. A quick glance at the board, no Mix Veg. Today, Spinach + Potatoes (£5.50) had replaced it. Oh, why not?

Fried Fish, Spinach + Potatoes, no Rice, no Bread – was duly relayed.

Mixing it up – was Rizwan’s observation.

I parked my bags under the cutlery shelf, a sensible spot as it happened, and took an adjacent table. The tall jug of water, a style spreading across the land, was already on the table. The cutlery, how much did I appreciate the presence of stainless steel? Rizwan brought the Order a few minutes later, two separate plates, no foliage today.

Fried Fish

A mass of Pollock, in a Spicy Batter, was accompanied by Spiced Onions, a slice of Lemon and a humble Salad topped with Raita. The Fried Fish was clearly the focal point, but little did I know how much the other items on the plate would add to the overall enjoyment.

Spinach + Potatoes

A new addition to the coverage of Kabana in Curry-Heute, this was decidedly – unappealing. The Spinach Mash, which I tend to avoid, smothered the Potatoes whose discolouration confirmed they had absorbed whatever Spices had been added to this creation. The Potatoes, I therefore knew I would enjoy, I braced myself somewhat for the Spinach.

I arranged half of the Spinach + Potatoes beside the Fried Fish and its accompaniments.

The Spinach was thick, stringy, surprisingly, there was quite a bit of Spice here, which kept building. The Seasoning was right on the button. The Potatoes, soft and fluffy, were a delight, their natural Flavour still coming across. Together, quite a contrast of Textures.

The firm Fish had a white interior which contrasted markedly with the applied coating. The lack of Seasoning here was worrisome. I had to ensure that every piece of Fish placed on the fork had an appropriate quantity of Batter included. Together, the magic would happen.

With the three main components studied, I tackled the Salad. This was as much to do with the avoidance of leaving too much on the plate as any interest in what was actually there. Suddenly, the meal took on a new dimension. Citrus, I had squeezed the Lemon, but this was more pronounced. Vinegar, but from where? The Raita possibly, no, it was whatever liquid was accumulating beneath the Spiced Onions. The Fried Fish burst into life, figuratively speaking. A moment of synergy, Fish and Potatoes, not unheard of, but this array, spectacular. Normally, I would have had a separate bowl of Masala from the Lamb Karahi to give the Fish a hand. The Salad had this ability all along.

The Bill

£11.50 By taking the slow train across The Peak District, the saving effectively paid for my lunch.

*

*

*

The Aftermath

A chat with Rizwan, I remarked on the wonder that was the liquid with the Onions.

I confirmed that – The Company – shall be here in force for our traditional end of January visit.

Meanwhile, Rizwan made me aware of an online series – Bill and Dom Eat The World. Kabana is featured in episode six. Have they reviewed Curry in five continents? Curry-Heute has.

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Sheffield – Ayubowan – Sri Lankan Street Food

On Monday night at Rutland Arms, the barman asked:

Have you had any good Curry since you have come down? – or words to that effect.

He was able to tell me that it was four years since my last visit to Sheffield. Then, we had spoken at length about all things Curry, but that was at Kelham Island Tavern, not here. It is always good to be recognised.

He had a new place for me, and gave instructions on how to find it. And so yesterday, with TK Maxx as my navigational beacon, I located Ayubowan – Sri Lankan Street Food (Sheffield Plate, 31-32 Orchard Square, Sheffield S1 2FB, England).

As I had already been to Naan Heaven, it was very much a recce.

Today, no more Lamb, I’ve had enough – pro tem. The Curry options at Abuyowan, without Lamb, did not tempt, another day.

Let’s have some different – Nasi Goreng (£13.00), a dish from beyond the Indian Subcontinent, and nothing to do with the chap who lost half the Luftwaffe, in matter of weeks, over southern England and the Channel.

The Bill

£15.00 Including a can of fizz

Sheffield Plate is one of two eateries in the city centre, this venue being smaller than nearby Cambridge Street Collective. Here the majority of stalls sell Asian Fayre of varying styles. Nothing Lahori/Punjabi.

Buzzer #5 soon sounded, I went up to fetch my tray.

Wooden cutlery, again, in the city of stainless steel. I simply cannot abide putting this stuff in my mouth. There is a horrible, tingling reaction, the taste of wood dominates all. Disgusting. I’ll have to bring my own, as I did on RTW-80.

Nasi Goreng

The fried egg on top made this a standout Dish, quite a departure from Egg Fried Rice. Onion, Carrot and Syboes were mixed through the Soya Sauce infused Rice.

The Seasoning was full on, all down to the liberal addition of Soya Sauce. Flavour-wise, not a complex creation, hence my preference for – Indian. The Chicken, yes it sneaked in, was also stained brown, same Flavour as everything else.

Any pleasure which may have been accrued in the eating, was spoiled by the sensation created by the wooden fork. This is a hideous way of transferring food from plate to mouth.

As far as lunch was concerned, this did the job, sufficiently filling, no more.

Next time, I trust I will be in the mood for something better.

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Sheffield – Khyber Diner – Late Night in Wicker’s World

It was a long day, songs shall be sung about the wait for lunch at Naan Heaven. As closing time approached, Clive and Maggie declared a severe case of – The Munchies. Imran’s Diner on Wicker was reportedly open until 02.00, places nearby even later, sorted. Despite there only being one visit to date, Hector has  celebrated the Curry at Wicker Kebabish, nothing to do with a chain of a similar name. This splendid Desi Curry House does not stay open late. Having had a decent Lamb Curry earlier, despite what else is written, no more Curry-Heute, bring on the Kebap.

As we reached the end of Stanley Street, behold, food Disneyland. Imran’s was open, but the tables were standing only, we took a look at Khyber Diner (54 Wicker, Sheffield S3 8JB, Yorkshire, England).

Bright, spartan décor, but there was a line of chaps, each with their role clearly defined. A Donner Kebap was a possibility. Lots of Chicken on display, an illuminated board with lots of Chicken Burgers. Chicken, solid meat, never really a Burger, whereas Chapli Kebab is ground Meat.

Despite ever eschewing Chicken Curry, Hector is partial to a KFC, or better still – Nando’s. Hang on, the last board, loadsa Chapli.

Naan and a drink included? I did not need Bread, time to negotiate a combination not on the board.

Two Chapli, one piece of Chicken, nothing else.

The Bill

£9.00 Haggling didn’t work.

Clive was having Donner Meat on a Naan, lots of Chilli Sauce.

For Maggie, a piece of Chicken and a mass of Wedges. Wedges, a fine alternative to Chips.

Chapli & Chicken

A token Salad, I had asked for the Tomatoes, the greenery was in the tray before I could stop it. Chilli Sauce and two large Chillies, just in case.

The crunchy batter and the Chicken skin is where all the interesting flavours were absorbed. Beneath, white meat, fun to eat, fingers of course.

These Chapli were unlike anything encountered previously. The looser Texture suggested they had been been hand made, and recently. The well-fired exterior masked a less well cooked interior. I would have preferred a balance here. Had they been deep fried or grilled?  Possibly both.

The Spice Level took me by surprise, some would not have coped. This accentuated the comparative mildness and sweetness of the Chilli Sauce. These Chapli definitely required more Seasoning, Spicy yes, Sodium Chloride, no. A pity.

Two Chapli, always an indulgence. I deserved it.

Instead of heading back across the Don to Shude Hill, I popped into the other brightly lit venue across the street.

Abaseen Dinner (39-41 Wicker, Sheffield S3 8HS, England) is slated by many online, such assaults make me wonder who is out to destroy them?

A vast place, empty, there was only one chap ordering Takeaway. Expecting only the usual late night Fayre, on spotting what was definitely – Desi Curry on the menu, I had to ask.

Do you serve Curry this late?

Indeed, so next time in Sheffield, who knows what might happen on Wicker?

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Sheffield – Naan Heaven – If you have an hour, or more, to spare…

A few days in Sheffield, Hector has the opperchancity to go exploring new venues.

Naan Heaven – Desi & Indian Restaurant (82 London Road, Sheffield S2 4LR England) showed up, part of a cluster of Curry Cafes on the west side of Bramall Lane. On previous trips, Hector has celebrated Apna Style, which lies further south. By coincidence, today saw the publication of the Hillsborough Report, Sheffield’s other football stadium.

Martin and Dr. John agreed to partake in today’s sojourn, a brisk half hour walk from Shude Hill, negotiating multiple cycle paths, with the sun in our eyes. We arrived at Naan Heaven bang on 13.00, five customers were in situ, the premises, as expected, bijou.

We are three, where would you like us? – I asked the young chap front of house, Mein Host. He didn’t move the two small tables together, but sat us adjacent to young chaps who were finishing an impressive looking Nehari (£12.49) and a less appetising Lahori Channa (£5.99).

With the menu on two screens, we studied the Fayre. Something different was foremost in Hector’s mind, Lambed out. Kofta Channa (£7.99) and of course a Plain Naan (£1.25) could meet my requirements. Dr. John opted for Chicken Curry (£9.99) with a Plain Naan and Plain Rice (£2.99). For Martin Lamb Curry (£14.99), note the flexible pricing, and a Plain Naan. A can of fizz (£1.25) for each of us.

Individually, we started to relay our Order.

No Kofta.

Mein Host then decided to bring us the menu. Strange.

OK, Lamb Curry for Hector.

There was no consultation as to what level of Spice we might desire.

The three would be diners sitting behind me questioned Mein Host about the timing of their Order. Who knows how long they had been waiting. The two young chaps certainly did, they offered us a Soupçon of their Nehari.

No bone, a Nehari without the shank/bone. With the red oily Shorva that I could never make, this was potent, full of Flavour. A medium Spice Level and well Seasoned, impressive. A view shared by the three of us.

The chaps reached their limit, the Chana abandoned, they gave us the Nehari and paid for a fresh Naan – for us.

To keep you going – they advised that we would would be waiting some twenty minutes.

The Naan never arrived.

The Nehari was therefore abandoned. In time, a tall turbaned chap came from the kitchen to clear the table. What Mein Host’s role is at Naan Heaven was now being questioned. Where were our drinks? Surely these could have been presented during the wait?

The wait well underway, the passing of time was slow. Hector booked flights to Athena for next autumn, the ritual trip. The three diners received their food at 13.40, again they had questioned how long it had taken. Three stuffed Naan, one Curry to share, Bread with Curry, the antithesis of how we approach matters.

The sound of frying was audible, for whom was something being fried? What was going on in the kitchen?

Curry 55, later Dr. Stan would remark – how many Robins is that?

At 13.55, Mein Host brought out two karahi with the Lamb Curry, Martin tore in despite there being no Bread.

The Naan arrived after a few more minutes, whole, risen, peely wally, no blisters, Sesame Seeds, so not really – Plain,  a sensible size.

No eating utensils.

Can I have a fork or spoon please?

Acknowledged, but nothing happened.

Can we have our drinks? – asked Dr. John, whose frustration was most apparent, more-so having just seen his Chicken Curry.

Can we have cutlery please? I need to be able to eat my Curry.

A plastic knife and a wooden fork were presented. I hate eating with wood.

Can I have a cup?

One was provided.

Do my friends not get one?

The Plain Rice was a Euro portion, way more than any single person could manage. Definitely – for sharing. Neither Martin or I required Rice.

There was an apology for the wait. The reality, food prepared from scratch should be more authentic than that served from – The Big Pot.

Is this your first day? – I asked Mein Host. Apparently he had been let down by other colleagues, and the turbaned chap was new.

Lamb Curry

Served on-the-bone this was already way better than was anticipated. The Meat count was into double figures, and even allowing for the bones, plenty of eating here, so good value. Tomato-based, with peripheral Oil, the Masala was most inviting. The appearance therefore said – Karahi – rather than a straightforward – Curry.

The Spice Level was – medium plus, so well judged. With no Chillies added, that is where it would remain. The Seasoning was sufficient to bring out the Flavours. The Oil/Ghee also played its part here, quite a distinctive overall Flavour. Super-soft Meat, mostly eaten with the fingers, the wooden fork was therefore used as a shovel to force the Masala on to the Naan. No Whole Spices were encountered, yet this creation was certainly – Desi. Simple, effective, tasty.

Martin offered the following:

Meat was tender, and somewhat flavoursome. The sauce was slightly too oily for my liking. Spice level was a little below what I would have wanted. The addition of fresh ginger strips would have been most welcome.

Was it worth the wait – no, was it worth £14.99 – no, would I visit again – no.

At least it wasn’t raining for the walk there and back.

We agreed that the Shorva served with the Nehari had way more Flavour and would have been the better choice.

*

*

*

*

Chicken Curry

Nobody expected this. John failed to recognise this as – Curry. The excess of Oil/Ghee was simply unacceptable. Just as well John had ordered Rice, this would have been a heart attack on a plate otherwise. Topped with sliced Green Chillies, the Meat was smothered with the most minimal of Masala. OK, Chicken is pale, but the lack of colour here puzzled. Namkeen! Was this in fact a Namkeen Karahi, cooked with Salt & Pepper? John had never encountered Namkeen previously. No Soupçon for Hector, so this cannot be verified. Why had the menu not given more information. Why was Mein Host not able to advise?

As with Martin, John was less than satisfied with his experience at Naan Heaven:

55 minute wait for the worst “chicken curry” I have ever had with possibly the worst service ever experienced in a UK restaurant.

Well, he had ordered Chicken Curry, no sympathy here.

The Bill

£17.49 My share, we paid separately.

The Aftermath

With my fellow diners waiting outside, I gave the Calling Card and introduced Curry-Heute. Many apologies followed. Not a good day to have Hector visit.

I assured Mein Host that I would praise his food, but as for the rest, well. 

2025 menu

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Manchester – Kabana – Your journey has been updated

Your journey has been updated – which is Avanti-speak for – your 10.38 train is cancelled, your seat reservation is no more, take either an earlier or later train, we don’t give a … it rained overnight, nobody designed a railway to cope with that.

And so Hector found himself at Glasgow Central queuing for the 08.00 along with some like-minded peeps. Sheffield, via Lancaster and Manchester, all being well, an unexpected stopover at the latter meant only one thing.

It was 12.20 when Hector entered Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England). There was no sign of Rizwan, Mein Host, but his sixth sense must have kicked in. Having exited from his hidey-hole, the usual exchange of greetings followed. Rizwan asked what I was having, as if it would vary. The first of any cluster of visits to Kabana has to be Lamb Karahi on-the-bone (£7.00) with Fried Rice (£2.00).

Having parked my luggage out of the way, I squeezed myself on to the table nearest the door. Draughty!

Such is the rapid turnover of customers, I had already identified a better spot soon to become available. As Rizwan brought the food, he too noted the same locus. A quick wipe down by a colleague and all was set.

Lamb Karahi

The foliage had already been added at the counter, so no naked photo today. Abundant Coriander, diced Ginger and sliced Green Chillies topped a mass of Meat, some on-the-bone. Beneath, a portion of Rice, which on a good day I could manage. Today was very much a rushed job, the stress of actually getting here had diminished the appetite somewhat. Get the excuses in early.

Cloves! I can only be in Manchester. I wouldn’t encounter a whole one, but their presence was marked. Black Peppercorns and a best avoided Black Cardamom, the Whole Spices which were unearthed. Today, the Seasoning felt a tad below the Kabana norm, the Spice built, and kept on doing so. Ah, the Chillies, without even thinking, I was taking these in with something approaching gay abandon. There was no stopping me. The three components of – the foliage – greatly enhance the Curry.

Curry, it is Curry, and Rizwan can call it Karahi if he chooses. Much of the Masala disappeared into the Rice. This makes for tasty Rice, and scoff it I did.

Much has been written about the outstanding quality of the Lamb as served at Kabanahttps://curry-heute.com/recommended-curry-houses/kabana-manchester-england/. Today’s lacked that almost velvety texture enjoyed here over the years. It wasn’t necessarily giving back Flavour other than its own meatiness. A new Monday morning batch, or was it a case that Saturday’s equivalent at New Cafe Reeshah (Glasgow) was even better?

Regardless, the unique Kabana blend of Flavours were present. Karahi Gosht twice within forty eight hours, both a different experience.

Had the Lamb, Rizwan says there should be Fish on Thursday for my planned stop-off in Manchester.

The Bill

£9.00  Outstanding value

The Aftermath

As I had approached Kabana along Thomas Street, I noted that Yadgar Cafe has gone. The adjacent Al-Faisal Tandoori went last year, two rivals, this can only be good for business at Kabana which has set the standard of Northern Quarter Curry Cafes, and so must surely continue to thrive. I managed to get my customary comment in regarding the transformation of Al-Faisal into a Kebab House.

Any idiot can grill meat, it takes skill to make a Masala.

When Dr. Stan eventually arrived in Sheffield he somehow took the train I was booked on, although it become the 10.36 to Preston and arrived ninety minutes late. Delay repay?

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Glasgow – New Cafe Reeshah – It’s All About The Food

Hot food on a cold afternoon, winter has definitely arrived in Glasgow. Arriving at New Cafe Reeshah (455 Shields Road, Pollokshields, Glasgow G41 1NP) at 13.50, Arshad, Mein Host, was behind the counter dealing with a substantial order which included lots of Pizza, yet the only other customer was waiting for a Kebap.

On confirming  the Lamb Lahori Karahi (£11.00 / £13.00) was on display, I stood at the counter and chatted with my fellow customer.

What we both took to be a Rice Dish turned out to be a coarse Daal, maybe one day. On spotting the tubs of Nihari (£10.00) he was almost in raptures. I assured him that Arshad had insisted I try the Nihari on a previous visit, I was back for my fix of Lamb on-the-bone, and without doubt, one of the finest Karahi sold in this city. He then went on to sing the praises of the Tandoori Chicken, also on display. I’m not rushing but if I draw a blank with the favoured Dish, as happened to a dear friend some months back, perhaps.

When you see a brown face you know the food is good – was an unexpected remark.

Often I’m the only white face when I go out for Curry – was my empirical reply.

Clearly, this is his go-to venue for food in an area which has many options –

fresh food and friendly faces… Arshad concurred.

My Order placed, including a Tandoori Naan (£1.50), I took my seat in the usual spot. Last time the bench seating had been installed, I don’t think I appreciated the full extent of the renovation. The wall covering is decidedly pukka. Two tables is as many as can ever be, however, someone has made the decision to make sitting in a better experience. They just have to fix the door which has a tendency to stay slightly ajar.  Draughty.

Arshad brought out the food.

You’ll make me famous.

You are famous!

Well he should be by now, and his brother Chef Amjad who appeared from the kitchen.

Round, whole, risen, puffy, blisters, an excellent Naan at a sensible price. So good was it, I managed more than half before abandoning the Bread to finish the Karahi.

Lamb Karahi Lahori

With everything hotter than everything else, much care at the start. The peripheral Oil was perfect for dipping. The Masala shrouded the Meat, Tomato skins giving away its foundation. The Seasoning was perfectly pitched, the Spice built, no worries here, enough. The Flavours, no Whole Spices, but still an impressive intensity. There was a flash of – Bradford – on the palate, not had that before, usually it’s closer to Yadgar. I took the Herb strewn through the Masala to be Coriander, was there Methi in here too? Four Bones, three Sucky, fun. How Tender can Lamb be? Beautiful Meat, some melt in the mouth, again, giving of Flavour. Was this the best version of Lamb Lahori Karahi ever had at New Cafe Reeshah?

Amjad came out to seek a verdict. I enquired about the presence of Methi. My pronunciation – mett-ay – appeared to confuse. No Methi, however, Amjad revealed that today, my Karahi had been reheated in a frying pan, this was not the customary Karahi Ding! He reckoned that this made the Masala thicker. A Minimal and Thick Masala, this is what the Hector has sought since even before the inception of Curry-Heute.

Having over-indulged with Bread, I took stock of what remained. Six pieces of Meat, almost a portion at other venues. I could manage this, just, slowly, lots of deliberate chewing. It was only towards the end I spotted the Ginger Strips cooked in. The Flavours just kept coming.

The Bill

£12.50

The Aftermath

It was another chap who took payment. Having not heard of my website before, he was interested in Curry-Heute, where has he been? That I have travelled far and wide was mentioned. He suggested that I should visit Lahore. I cannot see me ever flying East on a long haul flight again. Never say never.

Amjad had mentioned – Hand Chopped Keema.

Last Saturday at Dessi Tadka (München), I reported the – would you like more Rice – offer, as if. It’s never a case of – would you like more Curry – but I did admit that on occasion, a Soupçon of something – to try – has come my way. And so Amjad presented – a wee take – of Hand Chopped Keema – the locals love it.

The Texture of the Meat was approaching that of Stew, but cut even smaller than Bradford small. There was seemingly no Masala as such, yet the telltale Tomato skin confirmed there was a hint. The Seasoning  and Spice did not match that which I just consumed.

I gave my verdict – it needs Methi. Now Amjad understood my – Methi. Next time.

As I made my way back down Shields Road, which was closed to traffic, instead of waiting for the Cumin Seed to dislodge itself, it was a case of – free the Mince!

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Glasgow – Yadgar – As Daylight Fades

Aware of the fact that I had not been to Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) since the July interview for The Glasgow Bell online newspaper, and the subsequent publication of the article in August, today was as good as any to remind all. [and Matthew T-S, if your misled and unhelpful comment re Akbar’s, Curry-Heute, and employment strategies made any sense, I would publish it]  Hector has just returned from his final trip to Ausland of ‘25, the year is drawing to a close, The Silly Season is upon us. Who gets to decide that sunset has to be before 16.00?

Marg, who now accepts that if she doesn’t join me for the ritual Monday Curry, she doesn’t get fed, had us across the river for 14.30. Less than ninety minutes of daylight remaining. As Daylight Fades (Jadis).

No Naveed behind the counter, maybe he is off on his travels, Mr. Anwar Sr. was having Chai at his own venue. Shkoor, Mein Host, would arrive brevi tempore. So not a repeat of Saturday’s anonymity at Dessi Tadka (München).

What to have, I surveyed the ready fayre. Vegetables were foremost in my mind, so no Aloo Gosht (£7.50). Aloo Gajar Mutter (£5.00) I have enjoyed here oft, but today it would be Aloo Gobi (£6.00), and what else? Mushroom Pakora (£4.00) sat atop the counter, Fish Pakora (£7.00) beside the Samosas and Chapli Kebabs.

A Chapli Kebab, no, make it two.

No Curry for Marg: a solitary Meat Samosa, usually served in pairs, and a Salad would suffice.

Plus a Chapatti (£0.90) – concluded the Order. I wasn’t actually bothered about the Chapatti, but with Marg present, who knows?

The young serving chap brought the plates etc., the Order was  assembled. A jug of chilled tap water was duly provided.

The Salad components could have been presented on the plates with the Samosa and Chapli, instead we were treated to the full Bunte Salad, complete with Black Olives and pickled Green Chillies. The Chillies came my way, I also grabbed some Olives before they all went left.

Mr. Anwar stopped for a chat as he took his leave. Always good to catch up, he was going home for his dinner. His lady cooks, now that lets the imagination run loose.

Shkoor, not to be outdone, took his turn.

Chapli Kebab

Two, halved, a meal in their own right. One, felt not enough, I knew Marg would take a half, the perfect accompaniment therefore. Chapli Kebap, the ultimate Spicy Chicken Burger. Who needs a Burger chain when these exist? Full on Seasoning and Spice, Cumin to the fore, and when dipped in the Chilli Sauce, a total delight. Why was food like this not on offer at the – Refectory – when at university? Why did I not think of wandering down Gibson Street, then in its heyday, and discover such – snacks?

Meat Samosa

The solitary Samosa did look kind of lonely sitting alone on the plate. Quite a crust, but the focal point looked to be well stuffed. Marg created quite a plateful:

A visit to Yadgar was a very pleasant experience.

I enjoyed the meat samosa with an abundance of salad. The spice and flavour from the Samosa and half a Chapli gave me the tingling sensation, and the black olives, cucumber, lettuce, tomatoes, onion were covered with the Raita to help cool my mouth. I also took some of the hot Chapatti to mop up my meal.

I loved it all.

I knew the Chapatti would come in handy. Served whole and of the Wholemeal variety, I ate way more of this Bread than I originally envisaged. The subconscious – order a Chapatti – had proved to be the correct move.

*

*

Aloo Gobi

More Cauliflower than Potato, this was as Dry a Curry as one can envisage. Yet, there was still a sufficient level of moistness coming from the Vegetables to make the combination with the Chapatti work. Again, Cauliflower appeared to dominate in the Masala Mash, such as it was. Not a single trace of Oil.

The Texture of the Cauliflower was spot on, just firm enough. The immediate blast of Flavour was reassuring, I had chosen well today. The Yadgar Taste – was there, prominent as ever. So reliable, so satisfying. With the Seasoning and Spice still lingering from the Chapli, this creation was standing up for itself.

As with the Fisch at Dessi Tadka on Saturday, I halved a piece of Potato to reveal a mass of white. So only the periphery of the Tuber had been permeated. When do Potatoes stop being – new? Just enough Flavour from the Potatoes then, but still a blast of Spice. This simple combination of Vegetables, I could have sat and ate all day.

At the end, but a scrap of Chapatti and a surplus of raw onions was all that remained.

As I approached the counter to pay, I asked Shkoor:

Before you make up a random number, do you actually know what we had?

The Bill

£10.00   Vegetables – apparently.

The Aftermath

Did you enjoy our article?

I had to ask. Shkoor and Yadgar do feature as much as Hector.

Didn’t we do well?

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München – Dessi Tadka – No Chef Pintu, No Chettinad

A day in München is not going to pass without a visit to Dessi Tadka (Hofmannstraße 43, 81379  München, Deutschland) which, as the name suggests, serves proper Curry in the – home-cooked – style. Again, to fit in with the model of the day which included a trip out to Kloster Andechs, Curry had to be early. Dr. Stan was almost in tow, but decided his Frühstuck had not fully digested. An Apfelstrudel at the Kloster would hardly make up for missing out on Curry.

And so, Hector headed off on the U3 from Marienplatz to Aidenbachstrasse, arriving at the restaurant at 12.20. With only another customers present, I suspect they do their business on midweek lunchtimes. There was no sign of Herr Battra, Mein Host and owner. Neither of the two Chefs known to me were present either. I took a small table in what is effectively the corridor connecting the front seating area from the more salubrious rear.

Fisch Chettinad, not on the menu, is what I was hoping for. I asked the main man today if Chef Pintu was here. Apparently not. I asked if Fisch Chettinad was available, same response. Time to try something different then.

Home-Style Fish Curry (€20.90) was the obvious thing to have. With rehydration in mind I asked for a large bottle of Sparkling Water (€7.50). I was directed to a 0.4l glass of Mineralwasser (€3.00). This was most helpful, if a second glass was required, it would be more volume than the large 0.75l bottle and better value. Hector likes better value.

A chap with a dog was the only other customer I could see. Photographic opperchancities were therefore severely restricted. I have posted enough photos of Dessi Tadka, their dedicated page captures the ambiance.

There appeared to be a lot of staff, I wonder what they get to do? Particularly the younger ones. Today’s main man brought the food.

In terms of Rice, we are very much in Euroland. Who can eat an entire handi of Rice? I took a liberal portion, more than I knew I would manage. There was going to be wastage regardless.

Additionally, a plate with a Lemon Wedge, sliced raw Onion, and a worrying abundance of whole Green Chillies was presented as a Side. Two of these items three would be put to good use. How many Chillies did I need?

Home-Style Fish Curry

Ginger Strips and a modest sprinkling of Coriander topped the Masala whose appearance was heading towards an authentic Shorva. This was not a Mainstream blended Masala.

Two marvellously large pieces of Pollock, plus a third smaller piece, were placed over the Rice. Already, everything sat before me was making a mockery of my last Fish Curry at Madhras Dosa (Glasgow). Large pieces of Tomato, half cooked-in, were found also as well as four, smaller, whole Green Chillies. As ever, I retained half of the complex looking Masala for later.

A sharp sense of Spice hit the palate. There had been no discussion of Spice Level, extra Chillies were clearly sat before me. If this was the starting point, where did Chef think I was going to end up? The Hector has had his moment of torture this week already. My next intake included one of the four, embedded, smaller Chillies. Enough already. Three Chillies would be set aside, and the larger ones never touched.

Unusually, the Fish was giving off definite notes of – fishiness – yet on chewing, the Seasoning felt way down. Time to add the Onions, then squeeze the Lemon.

The Onions added crunch, an alternative Texture. The Lemon, added Citrus, which, for me, always works in a Curry. As I broke it down into smaller and smaller pieces, approaching – flakes – I marvelled at the Fish. The Texture was spot on. A bit of chewing, certainly not – rubbery. Why so white? Does this mean Fish Curry is comparable to Chicken Curry in terms of a lack of permeability? No way, not if one has had Chef Pintu’s Fisch Chettinad, and the Hector has had plenty.

The Masala, I was coming to terms with. Far from excessive, I found myself pouring on the remainder. No Clove or Cinnamon was evident here. Then I found a Green Cardamom – Desi, man! Today, the definite – fishiness – was complementing the Earthy Flavours from the Masala. The Seasoning was all in the latter which maybe was doing the heavy lifting. I write often that I find Fish Curry to be even more satisfying than – Gosht. The problem is in finding one as good as this.

I managed to put away my frustration at not securing the Chettinad. This became an even simpler task when one of the great Euro Curry House comedy moments occurred.

Would you like more Rice?

Seriously? Maybe one day I should patrol a Curry House with a clipboard and record just how many grains our Euro counterpart Curry eaters can manage?

Having already drawn a line on the plate for what I thought I might manage, once the Fish and Masala was gone, that was it, the end.

Why does nobody ever ask – would you like more Curry? Another Lamb Chop?

To be fair, the Hector has enjoyed many a complimentary Soupçon – you must try this – being the operative introduction.

Over the decades of Curry eating in München, first at Indian Mango and now Dessi Tadka, the end of the meal is not usually the absolute end.

Chai – said the chap as he placed it on the table.

I cannot drink this.

And so it was wheeched away. Tea with milk, not for Hector.

The Bill

23.90 (£21.01)

The Aftermath

If I escaped quickly there was the possibility of taking an earlier train to Tutzing, and so I was not for hanging around. It could well be a full year before I return to München, so no point introducing myself to the current staff.

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