Glasgow – The Wee Dhaaba – Not quite there yet

A Monday lunchtime in Glasgow, options for Desi Curry are frustratingly limited. A third visit to The Wee Dhaaba (17 Elder Street, Govan, Glasgow G51 3DY) was the choice. On visit #1, the Lamb Karahi (£12.00) impressed. On visit #2, the reaction to the Methi Aloo Gosht (£9.50) still puzzles, Hector’s palate may have gone awry. Today would be another challenge, whatever the bug that has been acquired, bunged sinuses are once again limiting the full functioning of the taste-buds.

Marg would join me, but not for Curry. I had promised the ladies at The Wee Dhaaba that I would bring Marg for coffee one day. Today was that day, however, once again, the opperchancity to have Masala Tea would not be resisted.

Arriving at 14.00, three young chaps were dining in the corner table to the left of the open door. Here, the mature chap, the father of the family and Chef (?) had sat previously, there was no sign of him today. The young lady who served me on visit #1 was manning the show.

A return to Lamb Karahi was envisaged, alas this was sold out.  If this excellent Curry sells so quickly, why had making more not become a priority? Without a moment’s hesitation, Methi Aloo Gosht was ordered. Spice Level was discussed, I chose seven on a scale of 1 – 10. Today a Paratha (£2.50) to accompany, Tawa was described as giving a softer outcome than Tandoori.

One should suffice unless it’s the size of a Malabar Parotta.

The latter term was not recognised, I promised to show a photo later.

Served whole please – was later added when I saw the chaps being served their Bread cut up in a basket.

Marg had studied the cakes etc. on display: Desi Karak Chai (£3.00) and a Cookie (£1.50) became her modest order.

The Masala Tea was served in a paper cup, surely when sitting in, crockery could be made available? But then, a certain international coffee chain cannot manage this.

Marg enjoyed her snack:

I found it hot and refreshing, I avoided adding sugar as I had a white chocolate cookie to eat as well.

The wait for the Curry was appropriate.

The Paratha was a good size. With my preference for all-purpose flour over Wholemeal Flour, this was the only negative. Suitably layered, soft as promised, and buttery, this was a fine example of the genre.

With Marg’s help, all but a scrap would be consumed.

Methi Aloo Gosht

As nobody has ever challenged the Curry-Heute classifications of Methi Gosht, I’ll stick with it. There are typically two ways of preparing this Herb-rich Curry. One either adds the Methi to a prepared Masala, which I favour, and as was the case here last time, or one prepares a mash of pulped Herbs and adds Spice. Today, another interpretation: not a Herb Mash but a Meat Mash, such was the dominance of the pulped Lamb on the plate. I’d rather this than the Herb Mash but correspondingly, the pieces of Meat were super-soft, also approaching pulp. The Potato would therefore be the significant solid on the plate.

Last time, the relatively cold Tarka Rice (£3.00) took the edge off the Curry, this time I was eating straight from the plate. Imagine the shock today when my top lip registered something cold, as in seriously cold. Surely this was not microwaved Curry-ding? I quickly sampled other parts, warm to hot registered. I had no choice but to send it back for a reheat. Meanwhile, the Paratha gets cold.

The explanation was simple – it’s the Chillies!

The Chillies had been added at the end, just before serving. These had come straight out of the fridge, a lesson for the kitchen to learn.

With the eating resumed, unsurprisingly, there was a big Chilli blast. The combination of this and the dodgy taste-buds, meant I wasn’t getting the hoped for Methi blast. The small pieces of Potato did not appear to have absorbed the Flavour from the Masala to the full extent as per last time. The Seasoning in this Curry was at an OK level, still, I wasn’t tasting very much. There was nothing not to like, one just hopes for so much more. As I compared this Methi Aloo Gosht and the previous one had here, the overall appearance of today’s offering resembled a traditional British Meat Stew. A puff pastry lid would not have been out of place.

The Bill

£16.50   Card payment accepted, as before.

The Aftermath

As promised, I showed a photo of a Malabar Parotta as served at Banana Leaf.

We call it Laccha – was the reply.

We all learn something new every day.

Curryspondent Peter is keen to join Hector at The Wee Dhaaba and sample a bespoke Lamb Desi Korma. After two, not so wonderful visits, I may leave them alone for a while.

Meanwhile, a reported encounter with a taxi driver at the end of last week, has resurrected an interest in New Cafe Reeshah, but – Takeaway only – was advised. A strange recommendation. I left them alone six years ago after the disappointment when it changed hands. By now, they should have their own identity.

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Glasgow – Handi By Darbar – Sublime Curry, Service Too!

On Monday, I offered The Carnoustie Two, the option of a visit to Handi By Darbar (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ), instead, Akbar’s was chosen. Today, I gave Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley no choice, the Hector had decided, this is where we were going. I had advised Moiz, Mein Host, that we should arrive by 20.00, just in case he fancied an early night. It was 19.30 when we took refuge from the approaching storm that Glasgow is due to experience this weekend.

Rahman was sweeping the floor in the empty downstairs eating area as we entered. Moiz was in his customary spot behind the counter. He told me that he would be on cooking duties this evening, Rahman would look after us. It is four months since I ate here, the current opening hours simply do not suit my days out in Glasgow. Today was different.

I would see you more often, but you only work (open) part time.

I had to get my dig in. Moiz said he is reviewing the situation. If only the promised thousands at the nearby Barclay’s complex would go back to work in the their custom built office space.

We headed upstairs, the room was empty. A table was chosen mid-room.

I read the Handi section of the menu to Clive with an emphasis on the kilo of Lamb Korma Handi (£32.00). He wasn’t taking the hint. However, Marg stepped up, announcing that even if Clive and I were to share the kilo, she would have a portion (£12.00). I suspect seeing the pleasure this Curry gave the Hector recently at Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin) was enough to get her on board.

Even Daal Gosht Handi (£12.00) did not tempt Clive, was it the suffix which was confusing/misleading him? Maggie too was unsure what to have.  Maybe I should draw pictures?  It was time to play the ace. I read the details for both Chicken Platter (£14.99) and Lamb Platter (£18.99), sold.

Maggie chose the inclusive Roti, Marg ordered one too (£1.50). Clive asked that his inclusive Naan be a Garlic Naan (£2.50).

Rice always feels the best accompaniment for a Desi Korma. Brown Rice (£3.95) was not available, Marg suggested we share Veg Fried Rice (£7.95), perfect.

Jugs of tap water proved to be sufficient liquid for three of us, not Marg. Marg never passes up the opperchancity to have Masala Tea (£2.50). This caused some confusion.

Moiz has occasionally presented Hector with Tea at the end of a meal, Tea without milk. Rahman came back upstairs to ask if Marg wanted milk – and sugar! – she added.

This was Clive and Maggie’s first visit to Handi By Darbar, I related how the premises have changed hands twice since the halcyon days of Karahi Palace, and that I have known Moiz since he was a young teenager, helping at his father’s Curry Cafe on Allison Street – Darbar Grill. Mr. Ahmed has been teaching the next generation how to cook, and to great effect, given the quality of food served at these premises.

The – Starters – element of the Platters duly arrived.

Lamb Platter

Chicken Platter

For Clive, two Lamb Chops and two pieces of Lamb Tikka. For Maggie, Two pieces of Chicken Tikka and a Chicken Seekh Kebab, halved. Somehow, Maggie found the Raita to be Spicier than the Chilli Sauce, very strange. Clive was well impressed by his meat offerings. That he compared them to The Downsman (Crawley) is praise in the highest. Proper, well-fired Marinated Lamb. This would prove to be the highlight of his meal.

The Handi arrived first, leaving Marg and Hector salivating further. This was the first time I had seen the straightforward Chicken Handi. Handi? It’s the pot in which it comes, the contents can be anything Chef wants to serve, it is not a recognised Curry as such. The Lamb Handi I have tried, and found it to be not dissimilar to the (Desi) Korma, but that was then, today’s could be markedly different.

Chicken Handi

Topped with Coriander leaves and stems, the Blended Masala, with the tell-tale sign of Yoghurt/Cream having been added, smothered two pieces of Chicken Thigh, served boneless. With the Hector soon to be distracted, none was coming my way. Maggie found her Curry to be – Spicy – but like Marg, there is a long established history of them stating this when starting a Curry. Likewise, having had a Starter, the Curry would not be finished.

As Maggie ate, so a – Wow! – escaped from her lips. I doubt she realised this at the time, but it was duly noted. Maggie:

Lovely succulent chicken meat, hit in heat as well as spice. The handi was almost full, lots of sauce, boneless thighs, skinless. For me it was up there in the spice-hot, spicier than your Korma. The sauce was a bit on the thin side having tasted the Lamb Korma Handi.

Lamb Handi

The same presentation, same Masala, however, the light may have caught a suggestion of a Tomato-rich Masala. Clive never got beyond – OK – in describing his Curry, meanwhile the Naan was something else.

Served in quarters, the Garlic Naan was exactly that. There was a copious smothering of Garlic.

 

A Naan with real garlic, that was good.

Clive’s choice, not mine. Empirical evidence, as reported in these pages, surely proves that such a Garlic overdose tends to smother the other Flavours, leading to the Curry being – OK. Clive:

The outstanding thing were the lamb chops. Excellent, never had so much meat. They were dry, not smothered in sauce.

The other stuff was OK. Slightly on the spicy side.

We ended up with an abundance of Roti. Having ordered the Garlic Naan, Clive’s Roti quota arrived too. We had three on the table, each halved. Why cut up Bread? That’s our pleasure. Roti/Chapatti, these remained soft, so possibly closer to the latter.

Veg Fried Rice

A Vegetable Biryani in effect, it’s a pity that this remains only available in such a large portion. One needs to have a sharing partner. What’s this sharing nonsense?

Peas, Green Beans, shredded Carrot and Sweetcorn were in the mix. Diversity is the name of the game, this would fully complement the Curry.

*

Lamb Korma Handi

The full kilo of a Lamb Desi Korma, Hector heaven. Moiz had his moment as he brought it upstairs.

The appearance, of the Curry, and maybe the Chef, was magnificent. Ginger Strips, Coriander and sliced Bullet Chillies sat atop the mysterious Masala. Yes, this has Yoghurt, more than a Karahi, and is easily distinguishable from the latter Flavour-wise. One waits for the Citrus blast, it hopefully comes.

There was more Masala than one should receive with a Karahi, hence the Rice. At Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin) and probably here too, I have found myself eking out the Masala, not today, Moiz had the ratio of Meat to Masala spot on to have with Rice.

The – big kick – had me waiting for Marg to repeat Maggie’s reaction, not today. Marg had accepted that this was how it had to be. She could choose to avoid the added Chillies.

The Seasoning was right up there, yet this Desi Korma was far from being – Salty. Consequently, and directly so, the Flavours were immense. A Clove appeared from somewhere, the Sucky Bone, and finally the Citrus. The quality of Meat was an improvement over that experienced earlier this year. Every piece of Lamb was suitably Tender.

This Desi Korma was immense, wonderful, and Marg was totally on board with it. Marg knows that this is a Special Curry, and it’s difficult to source at this level.

Whilst Rahman took care of the necessities, Moiz came up to take a further bow.

I hate to praise you too much, that was excellent.

Daddy has taught him well.

Marg stopped eating, the appetite sated. The Hector stopped at the point when there was still enough to justify taking some home, a Soupçon of Rice too. From my right, a hand appeared and dug into the karahi. Maggie was not for missing out. She instantly appreciated why this was way better and also pronounced it to be less Spicy than her Handi. Rather than have Clive miss out, and hopefully plant the seed for next time, he too was given a sample. Sweeter – was his comment.

This would normally mark the end of the meal, not tonight. The Masala Chai arrived, then the Desserts which are included with the Platters. There can be little, if any, profit in this deal.

It has a spice to it – remarked Marg – Cardamom.

That is what she was hoping for.

 

Two generous platefuls of Ice Cream and Gajar Halwa were presented. Like Hector, Clive was not bothered about Dessert and so Marg had his.

Moiz was doing us proud. This was way beyond – Dessert of the Day. Marg:

We waited patiently for our kilo of lamb korma handi. When it arrived I took some vegetable fried rice which was full of a variety of veg.

The korma was full of lamb on-the-bone and a fairly thick gravy sauce. On my first taste it was full of flavour and had many blasts of ginger and spices. A wonderful overall flavour with plenty of tangy mouthfuls keeping my lips tingly. Ate the food with pieces of roti and enjoyed the different textures within the rice.

Masala tea finished the meal perfectly. I did manage to eat the dessert with ice cream to help Clive out.

A family arrived upstairs as we were finishing. No early closing tonight.

The Bill

£77.93    Didn’t we do well?

The Aftermath

Back downstairs, still empty, people don’t know what they’re missing here.

Further regards, best wishes and appreciation were extolled.

I try not to praise Moiz too much, tonight, he deserved it. Moiz can cook and he knows how to look after his customers. He needs more customers, maybe if he opened earlier…

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Glasgow – Akbar’s – Bradford Curry, in Glasgow (R.I.P. Shabir)

The Carnoustie Two – Dr. Alasdair and Mags, were having a day of dining in Glasgow. Marg and Hector were only involved with dinner, lunch was elsewhere. This meant the timing and volume of Curry-Heute was crucial. Three possible venues were proposed, Akbar’s (573-581 Sauchiehall Street G3 7PQ), serving Bradford Curry and five minutes from our rendezvous point, Chimes of India, a ten minute walk for a more Mainstream Indian Curry with a Desi option, or an Uber across the river to Handi By Darbar and the full blown Punjabi experience. The mentioning of – large Naan – was the deciding factor, Akbar’s it would be. We set off at 18.30.

This would be Hector’s first visit to Akbar’s this year, two appears to have become the average number over the years. After all, there is Bradford itself, it is seven years since the four of us dined there together. Recently, Dr. Alasdair and Mags did manage a visit to Chili’s South Indian Cuisine (Seattle WA, USA) and saw that it was good.

Naveed was this evening’s manager, Imran’s day off. This means I’ll have to squeeze in another Akbar’s visit before the end of the year, else Imran may think we have abandoned him. Naveed directed us towards a window table, Taimoor would be our more than capable waiter.

The 2024 version of the large laminated menu was brought. Drinks were sorted, Poppadoms declined – unless you are giving them. Had Imran been on duty they may well have arrived. In reality, we didn’t need to fill ourselves before the Curry as two portions of Meat Chops (£7.95), to share, were surely inevitable.

Drinks: three small bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.00) and a small glass of wine (£6.25). Akbar’s price the Curry competitively and make their profits from the Drinks. On further consideration, Curry prices have increased significantly in recent times, as they have elsewhere.

I talked our guests through the Menu, the Desi-Apna Style section first, then the Chef’s Specialities. The anomaly of Karahi Gosht & Spinach (£15.95) and Gosht & Spinach Balti maintains. In case anyone was tempted, I did draw people’s attention to Liver Tikka (£7.00). No doubt I shall see this before the year is over.

Marg and Mags both opted for Fish Karahi (£15.00).

Dr. Alasdair followed Hector’s lead – Roshan Lal (£14.50). As always, I asked Taimoor that mine be served without the listed and unnecessary Capsicum. For devilment, or otherwise, Dr. Alasdair declined to take this on board and would accept his fate.

Mags suggested a Bhindi Bhuna (£7.00), a Vegetable Side, for the table – to share. This was warmly received by Hector who prefers to have more than just Meat and Masala.

No Rice, a Family Naan (£7.00) completed the Order. All Curry would be served Asian-style. Marg asked that our Meat Chops be – well-done. Maybe this should be a menu option.

Akbar’s was relatively empty when we arrived, the place soon filled up, lots of family groups. What does the popularity of Bradford Curry in Glasgow tell us? I watched one family group devour a Naan then order another. What a mistake to make. They were hopefully embarrassed when Naan #2 was eventually removed from the table, barely nibbled.

Two Dips were brought to the table a Raita and the wet, blended Capsicum Sauce. Later, a – special – bottle of Chilli Sauce was brought – for the Chops.

Meat Chops

Four Lamb Chops, cooked enough, though neither portion was as well-done as our side of the table would have preferred. We like the taste of charcoal.

Marg grabbed most of the Salad then, on realising this, offered me some. The Onions would suffice.

The Spice Level was surprising, a combination of the marinated Chops and the accompanying sauce. Suitably juicy, more-ish, one quickly recognised that this sharing nonsense is not for a Hector.

Mags was quick to comment – they were delicious, followed by Dr. Alasdair’s – that was a very good idea. Marg had her say also – I would have had them more well done. She later added – I enjoyed the succulent lamb chops which were full of flavour.

There was a suitable gap between Starters and Mains. I recalled the time when the waiter would give a precise time, Marg, the rose petals on the tables.

The food was arranged on the table with supreme efficiency.

With the Family Naan hanging right in front of my nose, it did not appear to be anything like as large as served here previously, but given the dimensions of the stand, it probably was. We would manage all but the top piece holding everything together.

Suitably risen around the periphery, there were multiple choices to be made. Importantly, start from the bottom. Mags and I became responsible for assuring the desires of our spouses were met, conveying the light and puffy Bread, as and when.

Bhindi Bhuna

Served in a karahi, there was possibly as much Tomato here as Okra. The Okra was properly cooked, retaining some firmness, not the slimy mass that used to be the result when Hector’s tried cooking this Vegetable. This was Hector’s opperchancity to remind all how to cook Okra.

The pulped Tomato was heading towards a Masala. The Flavour from the Tomato complemented the Okra, both offered Diversity, so much better when the meal is not  just Meat and Masala. The contrast of Flavours with the main course Curry certainly worked. I would certainly revisit this, less filling than an Aloo Gobi.

Roshan Lal (without)

The micro-cut Meat was a la Bradford. The comparatively Thin Masala is not what the Hector orders when in the Curry Capital, there it’s dark, thick, and rich in Methi. The colour suggested the addition of Yoghurt, so overall, not dissimilar to the fabled Desi Korma.

The distinctive Bradford Curry taste hit the palate, as did the Big Spice. Even in Bradford, this does not always happen so quickly. Sliced Green Chillies had been cooked in, adding another – kick – beyond what the Masala itself was offering. The Seasoning was pitched well, neither imposing or lacking.

Dipping the Naan in the Masala, (who does this?) proved to be thoroughly rewarding. The Meat was Tender-firm and giving of Spice. The quantity needed to be managed, when to abandon the Naan. Still, there was the distraction of the occasional Soupçon of Bhindi Bhuna. This was a three ring circus, pleasure emanating from the Roshan Lal, the Side and of course the Naan. Maybe it was just as well I only had the two Lamb Chops this time.

Roshan Lal

This was identical in appearance to my own Curry, other than the big pieces of – Ballast – that had been stirred in towards the point of serving. Uncooked – I was told, so what was the point? Dr. Alasdair soon realised the raw Capsicum was offering nothing to the Dish. As he and Mags tend to eat half a Curry, then switch, comments are below.

Periodically, Taimoor was over to check all was well, Naveed too. Attentive, never intrusive, and my response for – anything else – was understood.

We most certainly did not need – five more Naan please.

Karahi Fish

Many restaurants are reluctant to serve flaked Fish. Here we had the classic Fish Karahi which Hector has been enjoying at The Kashmir Restaurant (Bradford) for decades. I had to remind Mags that she had in fact seen me have this for brunch at the aforementioned venue.

There was a lot of Fish here, complemented by a worthy and minimal Tomato-based Masala. Neither of the ladies would manage the sheer volume.

I know full well the joy of eating this Curry. Marg had her say:

The Fish Karahi was desi style and at the top limit of my spice level. Good flavour of fish and plenty of it. We shared a family nan which was a perfect accompaniment to my dish. Unfortunately, I could not finish the dish as I was full. I did enjoy the side dish of tomato and okra.

And a few words from Alasdair:

Excellent choice of venue, lovely ambience and great service And great value. Lamb chops delicious and succulent, curries full of rich flavour with a decent level of spiciness. Sadly I have to admit that although the green peppers were delicious they added little to the curry and were an unnecessary adornment. The ochra dish was also excellent with great flavours which weren’t swamped by an over spicy sauce. ,

Also worthy of a mention was the family nan. Rice or other bread were as unnecessary as you had suggested and flavour and consistency were perfect.

An unnecessary adornment – Hector will be using that.

The remnants of the Karahi Fish in both karahi were combined. A decent portion was therefore created. This, and the scrap of Naan that was left over, would go back to Carnoustie.

The Bill

£104.15   Dr. Alasdair was surprised at – how little.  

The Aftermath

Busy as the restaurant became, we were able to sit and chat for a considerable period after our meal was finished.

Update – Wednesday, October 16, 2024

Two days after our visit, it was announced the Mr. Shabir Hussain, founder of the Akbar’s chain, had passed.

As soon I became aware that Akbar’s was bringing Bradford Curry to Glasgow, I was in direct communication with Shabir, culminating in our meeting in 2012. A true gentlemen, who knew the business, I hope those who come after remain true to his model.

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Glasgow – Curry Cottage – A Rainy Saturday

A rainy Saturday, cold and wet, welcome back to Glasgow, Hector. Curry Cottage (91 Cambridge Street, Glasgow G3 6RU) was the most convenient of Glasgow’s Top Rated Curry venues open this afternoon. 2500 steps in the rain was enough, not a day for crossing the river.

Recent visits to Curry Cottage have been on quiet Monday afternoons, finding three diners in situ on a Saturday was therefore not too much of a surprise. The assistant Chef greeted with a warm smile as I entered at 13.40. He was running the show today, no sign of Pratap, Mein Host. This was a pity, I had planed to share the new dedicated page on Curry-Heute for Curry Cottage.

Two mature chaps occupied Hector’s preferred table, what is the psychology of choosing that particular one? A younger chap sat nearer the counter, nobody had food. Had they finished already?

I would soon see Poppadoms, Pakora and Chicken Curry presented to my fellow diners before my Order was taken.

Having tried a variety of Dishes from the menu, today it was the Curry that sparked the interest. Goat Meat (on the bone) (£14.95), is their Desi Curry. I asked for – Desi-Desi-Desi. The former waiter had described the Goat Meat as being the – staff Curry. I was here for something with a big hit, after all, today’s Curry had to follow the outstanding offerings had recently in Berlin and Athena.

Cumin Rice (£4.50) remained the accompaniment of choice. This appeared to cause Chef difficulty, he hadn’t understood. Jeera Rice – I added. That worked. A bottle of Sparkling Water (£2.50) completed the Order. I note the 330ml bottles are cheaper than they were two years ago. It’s a pity Chef brought me Still Water, so no saving then. I only noticed the lack of bubbles on pouring. Why make a fuss, Pratap had treated me last visit.

A complimentary Poppadom and two Dips were brought. The Mango sauce worked, the Mint Raita, not for me. I suspect the Poppadom was also to give Chef more time. There might only have been four of us, but he was having to do everything himself.

In time, the chaps were delaying their exit, the rain was relentless.

When it was my turn to be fed, there was a surprise in store.

A Chapatti was brought too, my first Bread here in two years. Despite a hint of Wholemeal Flour, a proper Chapatti, soft, pliable, but I would barely manage half.

The Cumin Rice remains a sensible portion for one. So a bit pricey then, not enough to share. After the excess of Rice last Saturday at Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin), at least I knew every grain would be eaten.

Goat Meat (on the bone)

For the first time at Curry Cottage, Hector’s Curry was presented in a karahi. A dinner plate therefore accompanied. This made managing the meal so much easier. Has someone been reading these pages?

I counted eleven pieces of Goat as I arranged the Meat, and half of the Masala on the Rice. The bones varied in size, it’s the tiny slivers that can cause alarm.

The description given for the Blended Masala mentions – rice tomato onion. Rice in a Masala, unusual. Given the presence of the Chapatti, I started with a scoop of Masala.

There was a decent Spicy – kick – but where was the Flavour? There wasn’t much happening here Flavour-wise, the Seasoning was noted as – low. Today, on a certain social medium, I saw someone looking for a Salt-free Curry recipe. Reduce the Salt, reduce the Flavour. Hot food – was noted, this makes such a difference. Other than a Bay Leaf, there were no Whole Spices, though an hour after eating, the customary Cumin Seed would make itself known.

The Tender Meat was giving little back other than its inherent – Meatiness. Having hoped for the – Desi Wow! – this was little more than a bog standard Curry. Enjoyable, of course, but little more.

With the growing pile of discarded bones placed in the Rice bowl, I was down to the last three large pieces of Goat, a comparable volume of Rice, and the remaining Masala. The Chapatti was abandoned. Everything was about to change.

Suddenly, there was an intense blast of Flavour which had simply not registered previously. Had the taste-buds just been woken up. ? No, the Cumin in the Rice was doing its job, as were the Ginger Strips. Goat Meat, Rice, Masala, the synergy was apparent. Had the Chapatti interfered?

Chef came out to ask the lone diner – Good spice?

He had timed that to perfection. Here was a Desi Curry.

The Bill

£23.45 £1.50 for the Roti which I hadn’t ordered, and may have actually hindered my enjoyment of the meal. Why make a fuss? It gives me more to write about. Also, the struggle to get the card reader working. These devices do need charging.

The Aftermath

A fond farewell from Chef. Until next time.

Perhaps, something from the – Specials – board will suit?

The rain had abated.

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Berlin – Punjabi Zaiqa – The Day After October 7

On Saturday, whilst Hector was enjoying his Lamb (Desi) Korma (€12.90) at Punjabi Zaiqa (Tromsöer Strasse 6, 13359 Berlin Deutschland), Marg was pioneering the appearance of Aloo Keema (€9.90) in these pages. The Soupçon that crossed the table was a rare – Wow! – moment. Hence, the Hector was back today for Aloo Keema, a Curry further down the list of priorities meaning other favourites were foregone. Such are the number of Desi/Apna options at Punjabi Zaiqa, more than the combined total from all the Curry Houses in Berlin, two South Indian outlets excepted.

Arriving at 14.05, on the last full day of this trip, the exterior photo unashamedly records what will be the last day of temperatures above 20ºC experienced this year. I may now have to accept that summer in Britain, 2024, ain’t coming. The same young chap was front of house. There was a sense of recognition, but no conversation. After Sunday’s Khan Baba experience of great host, lesser Curry, the conclusion was clear, Punjabi Zaiqa would benefit from such a personality out front.

Before ordering Curry, I had to make it clear – no Rice! The Aloo Keema was duly ordered, a Naan (€2.50) would accompany. Inexplicably, Marg was not up for Curry-Heute. Daal Soup (€4.50) was her grande amuse bouche. I took a litre bottle of Sparkling Water (€2.00) from the fridge, and obtained paper cups at the counter.

We sat at the same table as on our previous visit. This time, the TV entertained Marg with scenes the Geographer deduced were from north Pakistan towards Afghanistan. Not the Khyber Pass?

As with Saturday, Punajbi Zaiqa had few sit-in customers, but those who departed were soon replaced. May I also point out that not all were Asian, hopefully, more indigenous Berliners shall make the worthwhile journey to the north of the city.

The food was brought on a large tray and assembled on the table. The Naan, what a Naan! Light in colour, yet there were sufficient burnt blisters, this proved to be the very definition of quality Naan. Piping hot, light and fluffy, a sheer delight, and it was served – whole!

Normally, the Hector would manage only half, Marg helped. Bread with Soup, what next?

Daal Soup

We both expected something thicker, resembling a – Daal. Featuring Red Lentils, this was thinner than even a British Lentil Soup, a Shorva by definition. For once, for Hector there was no Soupçon. Sorry. Marg’s words:

A small bowl of taste. Very red in colour and thinner than expected. Red Daal was thinly spread throughout the soup with blasts of coriander as well. A different flavour for me, and I enjoyed having pieces of hot, fluffy Naan bread to go with it.

*

*

Aloo Keema

Presented in a karahi, from which I chose to eat it, this Aloo Keema was quite a portion. Separating Oil had collected on the rim, on Saturday this was not the case. This Keema was otherwise as – Dry – as it is customarily served, no needless Masala, but sufficient moisture. The Potato was well buried. To get some notion of just how much Potato was present, I mixed up the contents of the karahi. The Oil disappeared, as did most of the toppings of Ginger Strips and Coriander, the Potato was revealed. Now we had an Aloo Keema.

No Peas – I remarked to Marg who then admitted that maybe she didn’t have Peas on Saturday after all. An update required. Dark flecks of Herb had been cooked in. As Marg’s eyes had been drawn to the TV screen, so Hector’s had been to a large box of Kasoori Methi on a shelf in the open kitchen.

The Earthy blast of Flavour was anticipated, the Spice Level was well above – medium – but was never going to make a Hector, sweat. Well Seasoned, but maybe this batch of Keema was below that had on Saturday. Maybe not. No – Wow! – for Hector today, more Methi could have taken me there. Also, the Potato had not had time to take in the full Flavour of the threat of Masala. Too fresh a batch, was the conclusion.

Keema, Mince as we, the British, call it, ground meat elsewhere. This Keema was super-fine, very well ground, beyond anything served by a UK butcher or restaurant. Mince so fine, no teeth were required, no chewing, a strange experience. The Potato aside, one could have eaten this Curry through a straw.

Curry through a straw? No way, Pedro!

The Bill

20.40 (£17.90) An imaginary number?

The Aftermath

See you next month – may have fallen on deaf ears.

And so to visit my new Berlin home and have a word with the gardener, we need to grow more Methi…

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Berlin – Khan Baba – Tag 406

Always on the lookout for new Berlin Curry Houses, research revealed Khan Baba (Amsterdamer Str. 12, 13347 Berlin, Deutschland) up in Wedding, an area the Hector has been monitoring for years. There are plenty of Curry Houses in this part of north Berlin, but not seemingly serving – the real, stuff. Sources suggest Khan Baba serve authentic Punjabi Karahi, the Hector was on the case. Coincidentally, Khan Baba is a matter of metres from the new Vagabund outlet – Kesselhaus.

Authentic Punjabi Karahi? If one studies the online menus of Mainstream Curry Houses, the given descriptions have – Capsicum/Paprika included, i.e. not authentic. In other words, big blobs of Capsicum and usually Onion too, tending towards – stir fry, not a Karahi-Curry. Khan Baba is one of two found to date in Berlin which does not.

We took the U6 to Seestrasse, Kahn Baba is a block east. Arriving at 14.00, Saeed, Mein Host, directed us to the rear right of the restaurant, the tables on the window side being occupied. The menu was brought by a young chap. On studying the lengthy booklet, it was clear that all the Mainstream Dishes were here. Cocktails too, a feature of Mainstream Berlin Curry Houses is their attempt to act as – bar-lounges. To what extent this is ever achieved has never been studied. Who eats Curry at night, who would go for drinks in such an establishment?

In the bottom corner of one page was – Karahi Special. Two portion sizes were on offer commensurate with serious Curry Houses which serve Karahi by weight. Saeed came to take the Order.

I’ve come to try your Karahi Gosht.

Meat or Chicken?

Not the answer I expected, Lamm was verified, though on another day Fisch may well be the option. Fisch Karahi, Mmmmm.

Butter Naan (€2.00), Chicken Salat (€6.50) for Marg and a litre bottle of Sparkling Water (€4.90) were added.

One, two Naan?

One will do. Can I have the Karahi Desi-style, as your mother would cook it?

Saeed was charming, he returned a few minutes later to advise that the Lamm Karahi would take thirty minutes to prepare. A good sign, one does not turn this Curry out in ten minutes.

Photos were acquired as and when spaces were free. On our arrival, people were sitting outside and some stood in the doorway. There they remained, so Khan Baba appears to be quite a focal point in the community.

Chicken Salat

I will admit to be surprised at what was presented. Nine large pieces of skewered Chicken Tikka sat atop what, after the Greek leg of this trip, could only be described as a Modest Salad. The red coating only highlights how little of the white meat was actually – Spiced, ergo the repeated observation: there ain’t such a thing as a Chicken Curry. Marg enjoyed her Salad:

A reasonable plate of lettuce, onion, tomatoes and cucumber with about eight pieces of Chicken Tikka. The spices outside of the chicken gave a good blast of flavour to every mouthful. I enjoyed the salad as I have not had too many vegetables in Berlin so far.

German cuisine, vegetables, aye right.

*

Look at the Naan! The Butter Naan must be amongst the smallest ever encountered. The plus, I would manage all of it, a sensible size there fore. The risen, puffy edges were in marked contrast to the centre. Here, the Naan had been elaborately perforated, the method I would love to see, to prevent it rising. Sesame Seeds had been spread across the centre, a Rogni Naan.

Lamm Karahi

The presentation in the flat karahi impressed. The wedge of Lemon, Ginger Strips and threat of Coriander confirmed that they knew what this was meant to be. The Meat count, on-the-bone as this Karahi must surely be served, reached around a dozen, large pieces. There was a Sucky Bone, yay!

Then there was the Masala which featured no Whole Spices and was comparatively too abundant. I could see pieces of Tomato that were heading towards pulp. If one accepts that a Punjabi Karahi Masala is Tomato based, then why did this one look so – Creamy? The Texture here was simply – wrong. Yes, a spoonful of Yoghurt is a customary ingredient, was too much added? Else, and I wasn’t in the kitchen, it appears to me that Chef pulped some Tomatoes, and why were the skins not removed, then spooned in the House Base Masala. The result? A blend of authentic Karahi Masala and the Mainstream.

Yadgar (Glasgow), my favoured Punjabi Curry House, do not turn out their Goshat Karahi in less than forty five minutes. I would happily have waited.

The Spice hit the back of the throat, a decent – kick. The level of Seasoning was decidedly – low. Again I return to the inefficacy of the Masala. There was a decided lack of Flavour, little depth. The Meat, which was of a decent quality, with only the occasional fatty piece, was suitably Tender. However, it was not giving back Spice or Flavour other than its own – meatiness. The most pronounced Flavour came from the Naan, the Sesame Seeds!

The overall quantity of food before me was manageable. The karahi was almost wiped clean, Marg got in the act here.

I liked it, I thought it was quite sweet with lemon and ginger.

Sweet? That should never be.

The Bill

29.30 (£24.52)

The Aftermath

I asked Saeed how long Khan Baba had been in business.

One year and forty days.

Precise.

Having introduced Curry-Heute, there was a brief chat about the difficulty in sourcing genuine Pakistani Curry in Berlin. Today, I’m not convinced I did.

Punjabi Zaiqa do serve a variety of Dishes which I regard as being authentic – Desi Curry. Their limitation is the lack of someone front of house. Some find their food to be over-seasoned. Given that comparisons are made when one makes a choice, if low seasoning and charm is what one seeks, then Khan Baba may suffice. If one wants the full-blown Punjabi experience, Punjabi Zaiqa is the only Berlin Curry House I have found which provides this.

2024 Menu

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Berlin – Punjabi Zaiqa – Ausgezeichnetes!

After Poznan, it has to be Berlin, or vice versa. Berlin means the Hector making a bee line to Punjabi Zaiqa (Tromsöer Strasse 6, 13359 Berlin Deutschland). Opened in September 2022, this is Hector’s seventh visit. Lamm Karahi (€14.90) served mit Knochen, on-the-bone, was the big attraction in the early days. On realising that the Lamm Korma (€12.90) is actually the much loved – Desi Korma, this has become the favoured Curry. However, today, Marg may well have added a third – must have.

Once again, U8 was the preferred means of reaching Osloer Strasse, Punajbi Zaiqa lies a few metres away. The furniture has been rearranged, it appears, since last November’s visit. Yes, it is nearly a year since the Hector was in Berlin, where has he been? A young chap served us, no sign of Adnan today. Here Deutsch is required, which does hinder clarification. Our Curry would include Rice, Marg’s preference for a Roti (€1.50) was arbitrary, Rice was coming.

Aloo Keema (€9.90) with a Roti made the young chap smile. I held up a photo of the last Lamm Korma had here.

Desi-style, nicht für Kinder.

Mit Knochen – appeared to be the acknowledgment that the Hector was here for the sublime, not the ridiculous.

Marg took a litre bottle of Sparkling Water (€2.00) from the fridge and secured two paper cups.

Two diners sat in the corner at the rear of the premises. As they left so two other sets of diners would arrive. Business was steady.

Sitting mid-room, Marg could see the TV, and an event ongoing at the Kaaba, Macca. I watched the rotating menu on the screen in order to capture the page I required, before remembering that I could use the QR Code and take screenshots of the entire menu. There have been no price increases this year.

The food was brought on a tray placed on the end of the table. Marg was taken aback by the quantity of Rice. The large handi contained easily enough for three. Marg was not having Rice. I took as much as I thought I could manage, what a waste.

The Roti was served whole. Made from Wholemeal flour, not my preferred style. In time, it did crisp, hence my preference for Chapattis. Marg would manage nearly all.

Lamm Korma

The aroma confirmed the efficacy of this Curry, so distinctive. Ginger Strips and Coriander sat atop the karahi laden with Meat and a Shorva-esque Masala. Arranging the Meat on the Basmati, the count reached double figures. The bone count was commensurate with still having plenty to eat, one Sucky Bone.

The Masala was Thin, but not as watery as the classic Shorva. I dipped my wee piece of Roti in the Masala, – oh yes!

Big Spice, way above the Vindaloo had two days ago at New Namaste in Poznan. The Seasoning was right up there, crucial to creating the – Wow! Whole Spices, the mark of a Desi Curry, a whole Clove was revealed followed by a Green Cardamom.

The distinctive Citrus Flavour was to the fore, yet there was a whole lot of other things happening here. At times, the palate went back to the ferocity of 1960s British Restaurant Curry, then Kabana (Manchester). The latter was no doubt the Clove at work.

The Meat looks soft – remarked Marg. She was right, of course. Tasty Lamb, giving back some sense of Spice, but not the intensity of Flavour from the Masala. As is the custom when Rice is involved, I had held back a fair quantity of the Masala, für das Endspiel. With careful management, the Masala was eked out such that there was no plain Basmati left on my plate. Hopefully, the empty plate is testimony to the degree of pleasure accrued. This Curry has to be had.

Aloo Keema

Again, topped with Ginger Strips and Coriander, the karahi was brimming. This Keema was as it should be, Dry, not even the merest trace of Oil. As Marg cut into a piece of Potato, so the impregnation was visible. The customary Soupçon crossed the table. Another – Wow! – moment. This was superb, a big Meaty blast, Spicy, well Seasoned. This could well be the best Aloo Keema the Hector has encountered, and that based on just the sample. The Hector must experience the full Curry, but that means foregoing Korma/Karahi. Why do I keep coming back to Berlin?

Marg couldn’t finish all her Curry echoing the quantity. At home, Takeaway would have been employed, not possible today. Marg’s words:

A full dish of finely ground Lamb Keema with pieces of flavoured potatoes in amongst the meal. Coriander, strips of ginger and some peas were also present. A wonderful taste throughout and I nearly finished the crispy Roti. The meal was excellent, but I did not manage to finish the dish.

Peas, so actually Aloo Keema Mutter!

(Update, there were no Peas.)

The Bill

27.80 (£23.26)

The Aftermath

Curry in Athena, Curry in Berlin, on the same trip, in effect. The Hector has had his pleasures. I asked Marg:

What would you like to do now?

And so we walked along the banks of the Spree before visiting one of Marg’s latest coffee shop discoveries. Meanwhile, the afterglow of Citrus continued until the hidden Cumin Seed revealed itself.

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Poznan – New Namaste – Much of a Muchness

New Namaste (Wozna 13, 61-777 Poznan, Polska), I wonder what happened to the old one?

Hector and Marg have two days only in Polska in 2024. Our flight to Athena cost sod all, all flights out of Athens were horrible, else others might have joined us. Behold, the right price from Thessaloniki to Poznan, and the rest of the trip falls into place.

My most visited Poznan Curry HouseRestauracja Indyjska Shivaz has gone, and so to maintain the breadth of coverage, an untried venue was sought. In September 2020, I identified nine new Curry Houses in Poznan, so plenty of choice. Pork Vindaloo caught my eye whilst trawling through possible venues. Delhi Masala Poznan is where I thought I had spotted this rare Curry without red meat. On arrival this afternoon, a waiter said yes, Mein Host – no. Still, I liked the look of this place and it will be the chosen venue next time, plus a return to Wiejskie Jadlo an excellent traditional Polish Restaurant off the west side of Rynek. Roll on 2025.

New Namaste is two blocks east of Rynek, off Garbary. We were the first diners of the day when we entered at 13.30. The choice of tables was ours in this quite spacious restaurant, done out in traditional Curry House décor. The background music was pleasant, none of that screechy stuff.

Marg was reserving her appetite for this evening’s Polish meal, Samosa Wegetarianske (17.00zl) come as a pair. To accompany, Masala Chai (15.00zl. The Pork Vindaloo (38.99zl) has a three Chilli rating on the menu, so why did Mein Host ask if I wanted it – Spicy? Jeera Rice (15.00zl) looked to be the best Rice option. A large bottle of Woda Kropla Beskidu (6.00zl) niegazowana completed the Order.

We remained the only sit-in customers. There was the occasional alarm pinging at the till, online Orders. A variety of delivery chaps took away the food.

The tea arrived next. This is Marg’s area of expertise, no way was the Hector sampling this milky concoction. I’ll just point out that there was no floating Cardamom.

The Masala Chai was served very hot and once I added sugar, it hit the spot.

*

Samosa Wegetarianske

The Vegetable Samosas were a good size, so a worthy snack. The interior looked well filled. A pity the Hector couldn’t risk sampling any, have I mentioned tonight’s Polish meal?

I ordered two vegetable samosas. They arrived with a tray of dips. They were hot and full of potato and vegetables. I used the mint dip to give another flavour. Very tasty and filling.

*

*

*

The Jeera Rice was presented in a standard handi, so lots of it, the European way. I took what I thought I could manage and was impressed by the quantity of Cumin Seeds mixed through, and also finding the whole Star Anise. This Rice was subsequently – tasty.

What was going to become – leftovers – was taken over by Marg who created her own Mint-Cumin-Rice experience.

I finished the extra rice as I don’t like waste.

Pork Vindaloo

These small karahi typically hold more than first appears possible. The swirl of Cream I found to be off-putting, wrong. The Masala, topped with no more than a spoonful of Coriander and Onion rings looked Creamy enough. And why was this? When ordering Vindaloo, one hopes for the definitive wine-based version, as inspired by the Portuguese. Having had my Stifado in Athena, maybe I was hoping for something comparable.

At least eight, large pieces of Pork, not all fat had been removed, were accompanied by an indeterminate number of Potato pieces. As ever, I retained some Masala for the end game, to ensure I would not just have the copious Rice left on the plate. The blended Masala was viscous, not atypical of any Mainstream restaurant.

This Curry’s Seasoning immediately registered as – Big! The Spice built but would never reach anything like demanding. So, this was a Vindaloo with a three Chilli rating? For truly Spicy Curry in Polska, cf Gdynia!

One is more used to grilled Pork, Roast Pork (yum), not boiled. The Texture felt a bit strange, too soft, and not helped when I realised I was chewing boiled Pork fat. Out with it. Wot, no crackling? The Pork was not for giving up much in the way of Flavour, maybe this is why Mutton is preferred. However, this is where the Potato came to the fore. Spice infused, the Potato saved the day, glorious. A better Texture, a more familiar Texture. Should all Curry include the humble Potato?

The Masala had a Sweetness which appeared to confront the level of Seasoning. Then there’s the likelihood that Coconut was lurking in there. In a South Indian Curry, Coconut is expected, but I prefer when it has been roasted/burnt and that Flavour comes across strongly.

I could have finished all the Rice and Masala, but having reached a limit, I decided not to go beyond it. I had had enough of this Curry. For once, the Hector was missing his own cooking and recipe. I’m certain this recipe for Pork Vindaloo gives a better outcome.

The Bill

91.99zl   (£18.07)

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was duly presented. No great interest was shown.

Our Polish meal later was more memorable.

*

*

Menu 2024

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Thessaloniki – India Gate – Salonica – Mainstream, it has to be

Curry is clearly not a big thing in Thessaloniki, there are only three venues to choose from in Greece’s second city. So little chance, actually no chance, of finding the Curry Cafes which are abundant in Athena. Mainstream it has to be.

The Hector chose India Gate (Kon/nou Melenikou 13, Thessaloniki 546 35). Having checked it out yesterday on our walk down from the Acropolis to the waterfront, I promised Mein Host that we would return this afternoon.

I liked the given description of the Tawa Gosht (€12.00). Beef would be a change from Mutton. Given that the unnecessary Capsicum was clearly mentioned across the menu but not here, hopefully this Curry would exclude it.

We arrived this afternoon just after 14.00 and took one of the two remaining tables. There are only four tables at India Gate, seating a maximum of sixteen. All al fresco, there is no seating inside. A young boy cleared the debris from the previous occupant, carefully wiped the surface and set up our places. He brought a large bottle of chilled Still Water (€2.00). We attempted to have it replaced by Sparkling but gave up when only 200ml bottles of Soda was established as the alternative.

Mein Host came out to take the Order. For Marg, Butter Chicken (€10.00), we would share Mushroom Rice (€7.00) and a Traditional Naan (€2.30).

Mild or Spicy? Marg opted for the latter, as if anyone ordering Butter Chicken was going to ask for it to be – Spicy.

I asked if he knew the words – Desi – or – Apna. Neither seemed to register.

Can you serve me the Curry your mother would have prepared?

Desi – was then mentioned having been just dismissed. I may have got the message across, I was looking for something beyond the Mainstream.

Having taken the Order, Mein Host returned – Mild or Spicy?

We sat and watched the World go by. It was a full thirty minutes wait for the food, so not a rushed job then. I couldn’t help but recall the last Curry I had with Marg outside – Straßenessen in Berlin. The setup was remarkably similar to India Gate, except then it was November, today is October 1st, it’s 24ºC here in Thessaloniki, the Hector is still in sandals. I wonder how this place operates in the Greek winter?

The Curry arrived first, not much we could do with it, except take photos. At least, sat in the direct sunlight, it would get some rays. The illumination in today’s photos is quite different from the norm.

We both remarked on the size of the pots, small. This feeling was enhanced when the Mushroom Rice was presented. Here was enough to share, and some. The abundant Rice had been spiced a la Biryani. Fresh Mushrooms played their part in making this a quite magnificent Vegetable Rice.

If I was able to return here, the Vegetable Biryani would certainly be worthy of investigation.

The Traditional Naan was tear-shaped, thin, risen and blistered. A proper Tandoori Naan. It had been cut lengthwise, this did not detract from the visual impact as cutting it into bits does. A bit crispy, but a thoroughly enjoyable Naan.

Tawa Gosht

Topped with Cherry Tomato and a threat of Coriander, the brown Masala looked splendid in the bright sunlight. The viscosity of the Masala was apparent as it, and the Meat were relocated to the plate. For once, I didn’t count the Meat, there was sufficient. Subconsciously, maybe I didn’t want a lot.

I had chosen Tawa Gosht because of its description, yet there were strips of Capsicum mixed through the Masala. All three colours, just to spoil my day. A discard pile was duly created. Inevitably pieces were eaten, and I would pay for it later. Burp, horrible.

The Spice Level built steadily as I ate, nothing in the extreme, a suitable – kick – as I hoped had been relayed. The Seasoning was fine, neither a standout or a hindrance. The small-ish pieces of Beef were Soft, there was the sense of Spice being given back here. It is so rare that I have a Beef Curry, here was a decent, honest attempt. No Whole Spices, nothing in particular that could be identified, but definitely the Flavour of Curry, albeit we’re in Europe and whatever happens over here in Mainstream Curry Houses, that – taste – was present.

The Rice was playing its part in the overall enjoyment of the meal, from here more Coriander. The Naan was used to wipe the Curry bowl, all that remained was the discarded pile of – Ballast.

Butter Chicken

Red, but otherwise, a similarly viscous Masala, but was that Cheese swirled across the top? I’ve been watching too many American cookery videos. Marg assured me it was Cream. The Hector Soupçon was sourced – Sweet. This Curry was for those who like that sort of thing. Marg’s verdict:

A fairly small dish with an abundance of sauce in ratio to the pieces of chicken. A very sweet and thick sauce went well with the Rice. I was ready for this meal and started before the Bread arrived. A crispy and tasty Naan.

The Mushroom Rice was full of spices and these extra textures added to the whole flavour. I loved the Coriander kick. Overall, a tasty dish with the Mushroom Rice the stand out.

The Bill

33.30 (£27.71)

The Aftermath

The ritual of introducing Curry-Heute complete, I asked Mein Host about his lack of indoor tables. They have heaters for outside in winter, simples. One therefore must really want a Curry to come here but then there are so few choices.

Strangely, the food today was not discussed. I was advised that expansion was not possible due to the adjacent excavation. 

What did the Romans ever do for us? 

2024 Menu

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Athena – Indian Paradise Kuzina – Bangladeshi Houses in the UK don’t serve this quality of Curry

There was just time for one more Athena Curry. It was planned for yesterday, but after Stifado and a Bekri Meze the Hector once again found himself meated-out. Today turned out to be another Meat challenge when Marg got in first with the Fish.

To return to another favourite venue was dismissed in favour of further exploration in the Curry Mecca north of Psiri towards Amonia. I had a look at Indian Paradise Kuzina (Koumoundourou 3, Athina 104 35, Hellas) before Wednesday’s Curry at the ever reliable Punjabi Tikka. Indian Paradise Kuzina is on an adjacent back street, easily missed. Given the age and the paucity of reviews in other sources, I suspect many people have passed Indian Paradise by.

We arrived at Indian Paradise Kuzina at 15.50. It became apparent that initially, the few people eating here were the staff, shots each. Two further customers made me aware, this place is cash only, not that one needs much when dining in this neck of the woods.

We took the corner table, from there, all could be surveyed. The poster behind Marg with the tiger, proudly proclaimed Bangladesh. The Hector, unashamedly has a preference for the cuisine on the north-western side of the Indian subcontinent. Back in the UK, Bangladeshi Curry Houses are more associated with the – Mainstream. However, here was another Curry Cafe in Athena, hopes were high.

A young chap approached the table, his seniors were sat outside engaged in animated discussion.

A menu? – I proffered, realising that if I hadn’t seen it by now, there probably wasn’t one. This also meant there were no prices on display, though I had found a graphic online, but cannot verify the age, hence the accuracy. We were invited up to the counter to choose from the prepared meals on display.

*

*

The chap had the key linguistic fundamentals only and duly matched his words to the trays.

Beef, Mutton, Liver, Fish, Biryani.

Beef                                                    Mutton

                               Liver                                                               Fish

                              Biryani                                                          Samosa

Marg was right in there – Fish, but just the one piece. To this she added – Rice, most unusual. The Biryani on display had sporadic pieces of Beef/Mutton. As with Sheerin Palace (Glasgow), the likelihood was that the Biryani would become the Rice portion.

The trays containing the Beef and the Mutton both looked well brewed. With on-the-bone always a preference, Mutton it would be.

Bread? – no reaction. Roti? That worked.

We took our seats once again, two chilled bottles of still water were provided. There was a modest array of drinks in the fridge including large bottles of Bier in case anyone needs to know this.

There was a hiatus outside, Marg saw everything, I missed it being actually outside getting more photos, the banners being the only semblance of a menu. The spare piece of ground opposite has been fenced off and is being used as a private car park. A driver came out and almost collided with a passing vehicle. More animated discussion, a pity there’s no movie.

A fresh Salad accompanied the fayre. Marg got busy squeezing the lemon wedges and took care of the greenery. No Salad for Hector. The cooked food was served on hot plates.

Roti?

This was the last item to arrive. Thin, lightly fired, the chap still couldn’t believe we only required – one. The Roti did not crisp, so once again, Greek Bread rules.

Biryani

The portion of Rice was Biryani, as expected. Only the two pieces of Meat made it in, maybe just as well. Marg took a sufficiency then left me with still more Rice than I would manage.

Cloves! – Marg exclaimed before she had eaten anything else. Rice with Flavour, surely not. The one piece of Meat that was left for me proved to be totally saturated in Flavour. This augured well for what was to follow.

Mutton Curry

Eight large pieces of Meat, three with large bones, were arranged on the Rice. I didn’t see any fatty bits but did see a mini attachment that might have been offal. This left minimal Masala in the bowl. A Dry Bangladeshi Curry, unusual.

The first intake, the moment that reveals all: the Spice hit the back of the throat. The Seasoning quickly registered, the Flavours flooded the palate. I would find a piece of Cinnamon Bark, so knowledge of this and the visible Cloves, meant at least two of the sources of astonishing Flavour could be established.

Peppery, the Masala was unusually dark, no Tomatoes? The Peppery Masala was astonishing, thicker than a Punjabi Shorva, this was going to be fun eating. The first piece of Meat was chewy, thereafter, not the case. Indeed, some pieces were decidedly Tender. Once again, the Flavour emanating from the Meat was noticeable. This was classic – Desi – cuisine.

In addition to the three large pieces of Meat on-the-bone, quite a few splinters. Due care was taken. Splinters, the dark Meat, the dark Masala, Venison came to mind, it couldn’t be? I’ll settle for nominating – Goat.

Meanwhile, the Spice Level built steadily. I advised Marg that this Curry was at a level beyond what she would seek. I removed the spare Masala from the bowl. Only the merest traces of Oil remained. The yellow-green sheen whcih I associate with Curry from the 1960s, stained the bowl. I’ve had some great Curry moments this year, add this to the list. This Mutton Curry had the – Wow! – factor. I don’t know of any Bangladeshi Houses in the UK serving this quality of Curry.

The serving chap came over to check on our progress. My level of pleasure was hopefully conveyed. That was the last we saw of him.

Fish Curry

The single Fish was substantial. White Fish, thick, chunky, it retained its integrity. Visibly Oily, the Masala was a different entity from the above. This was a mash of Tomato and Onion, a different eating experience altogether. The customary Soupçon crossed the table. A Fishy Curry, not to be taken as read. Had I ordered this, I would no doubt have been satisfied, well in a portion with more Fish. However, I would then have missed the outstanding Mutton Curry.

With the Fish, Masala, Clove-rich Rice, and Salad, Marg had a lot going on.

I chose to have one piece of Fish (looked like a Lamb Chop in shape) covered with tasty vegetables of onion and tomatoes and spices. I then asked for Rice pointing at the Biryani. The Rice, which had the flavour of cloves complemented the rich oily sauce from the Fish. I added the green salad which was very finely chopped with thin strips of carrot. Overall, full of flavour which tingled my mouth. I removed the bones from the Fish as I ate it. It was a lovely change for me.

It was Parvez, an even younger chap who cleared the table. My instincts were correct, he was understanding more English. I went up to pay.

The Bill

11.00 (£9.19) Nothing itemised and cash only, the first I have spent on this trip.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was presented and Curry-Heute introduced. Parvez must have communicated with the kitchen, Chef Jassim came out to investigate. Hopefully he got the gist of what Curry-Heute is about.  I congratulated him on his excellent Fayre.

What is this? – I asked, pointing to the mass of – foliage – on the counter.

Buffet.

I promised to return – next year – and, all being well, bring more people.

Next year’s flight to Athena is booked already.

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