Brussel – Spoonful of India – Curry for the Cognoscenti

So why was Hector dining at Spoonful of India (Rue Sainte-Catherine 22, 1000 Brussel Belgium), when the easy choice was to return once more to CHILLI Grill? The menu, simples.

Whilst there are many Curry Houses around the centre of Brussel, research, so far, finds them all to be Mainstream in the extreme. Spoonful of India does not serve the ubiquitous Chicken Tikka Masala and Rogan Josh, they do have one of Hector’s favourite alternatives to Lahori/Punjabi fayre: Lamb Sukkha (€20.00). Not only that, the Bread  favoured most in these pages, is also available: Malabar Parota (€3.50).

Arriving at 13.50, having dodged the continuing heavy showers, Spoonful of India was empty. People had therefore taken refuge in the abundant nearby cafes, not thought – let’s go for Curry. For the keen Meteorologists, Belgien finds itself at the boundary of the super-hot air mass which is currently over central and southern Europe, and the not so hot maritime air coming from the Atlantic. The result? Precipitation! The weathermen simply predicted a week of showers here, and when they come, they mean it.

The charming young waitress greeted and let me choose a small table some way into the long, and correspondingly narrow, premises. Hector was not going to be window dressing today. The Order was relayed having checked that Rice was not inclusive. Was that a Spice Level warning I was being given?

I’ll put medium – said the waitress as she entered the details on her pad.

Medium with a – kick – would have been ideal.

A half litre bottle of Sparkling Water (€3.50) completed the Order.

I was subsequently presented with a basket containing two quarters of a Poppadom, and some crispy nibbles. Rather than have the green ones stare at me, these were eaten first. There was a bit of Spice here and certainly Seasoning. Not bad at all.

I had time to take in my surroundings. The plain white walls are adorned with photos of the Homeland, simple décor, effective. The kitchen was some way behind me. I was amused when a Chef came out to study the menu. I hoped he wasn’t checking up on what exactly a Lamb Sukkha is.

At 14.05 there was a – Ding! – in the kitchen, not quite a World Record then. The Curry sat on the same plate as the Malabar Parota. I removed the Curry so as to see the Parota in all its glory. Served whole, as thankfully they always are, this was easily the largest Parota served to Hector yet. It was not the customary – white – but was close to the real deal. Soft and flaky, with lovely burnt bits, and the telltale spiral, this was a worthy Paratha. I would manage all, and not have to eke it out.

Lamb Sukkha

Dry – this was not, so by definition, one has to challenge the efficacy. The Masala was certainly thick, and the pulped Meat added to this. I could not count the pieces of Lamb at the start as I was not going to needlessly decant to the plate. Plenty of Meat, this was going to be a filling meal.

Hot food, both the Curry and Parota, a good start. The anticipated – smokiness – was not as strong as hoped for, but was certainly there. Where was the whole, dried Red Chilli which I have come to accept as the norm? Instead, Curry Leaves, who knows how long these had been associated with the Masala?

The distinctive Flavour of a South Indian Curry came across. If there was Coconut, it was not interfering. I have to compare this Curry to the Glasgow Curry Houses which serve this Curry: Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen, and once upon a time Madhras Dosa when it was Banana Leaf. Bombaywalla once challenged the Hector with the level of Seasoning, but this brings out the full impact of the Spices. Had the level of Seasoning been more at Spoonful of India, then the Flavours could have been more intense.

Most of the Lamb was super-soft, one could have sucked as an alternative to chewing. The combination of Sukkha and Parota is tried and tested, they work brilliantly together. As an alternative to the oft reviewed Karahi Gosht  this is certainly worth a try. And when in Brussel, Spoonful of India is where to get it.

The Bill

€24.50 (£21.22) This was €2.50 less than anticipated. There is a special deal for having this combination (€21.50).

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was given to the young waitress. She immediately said she would call her boss. And so Hector was introduced to the owner, another charming lady who originates from Bangladesh. (correction: see comment from Team – Spoonful of India – below) Having been involved in catering for some years she established Spoonful of India. Her model was not to serve Mainstream Dishes, but those which are true to their region. I was then given an explanation as to the wall art, and the famous faces shown. And so we have the photos. Those who know, will know.

Menu

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Brussel – CHILLI Grill – Authentic Punjabi/Lahori Cuisine

Authentic Punjabi/Lahori cuisine in Brussel? It has to be Chilli Grill (Rue Antoine Dansaert 172, 1000 Brussel Belgium). Having arrived yesterday, usually a beeline would have been made to Chilli Grill, alas, closed on Sundays. Monday, it’s hard to find anything open, but this is a pan-European phenomenon. Hector will admit to contacting – The Brothers Alvi – last week to establish that 13.30 was the earliest time to arrive today.

A 13.45 rendezvous was suggested. Tram 81 still ain’t running, as we first discovered yesterday having to haul the bags up the hill to St. Gilles. 14.00 it was, Dr. Stan and Hector arrived at 14.05, Mags was still, well who knows where?

It was the brother of Shahzad who greeted. Mutton (Beef) Karahi (€10.95) for two with Rice (€4.00) was confirmed. As we took our seat, so Shahzad, Mein Host, appeared from the kitchen.

It’s good to be here again – was my greeting. All was well.

Dr. Stan arranged Fanta (€2.00), 330ml cans. This trip, Fanta has become cheaper each time we have ordered this Belgian version which, for unknown reasons, seems superior to that which is served outwith this nation. Belgien, –  cheap – sorry.

You like yours Spicy!(?) – asked the brother, addressing Dr. Stan.

The Hector had just been put in his place, Dr. Stan is the more frequent visitor to Chilli Grill as he passes through Brussel en route to/from Deutschland, whilst the rest of us fly.

It was then established that the Hector could handle – Spicy – also.

We could see/hear Shahzad working his magic at the hob just inside the kitchen. Our food was on the table when Mags arrived. The Order was tripled, well sort of.

The Rice was approaching another fine example of a Euro-portion. Six more grains and the Hector might have been beaten. Dr. Stan and Hector would clear their plates, Mags doesn’t do so well with Rice.

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Mutton (Beef) Karahi

Yes, the karahi looks small. Contained therein, were ten large pieces of Meat, such that the Masala was minimal. A Dry Karahi. QED.

Ah the irony, by the time the Meat and Masala had been arranged over the Basmati, such was the rate of absorption, more Masala would have been welcomed. One day Hector will have the courage to ask:

Please, Sir? Can I have some more?

More Masala, is this actually being written?

A small plate of what came close to being classified as – foliage – added a bit of Diversity, the Chillies would certainly add more heat. Everything combined, there was no issue with the Spice Level, we had a – kick. The Seasoning was well below that which the Hector seeks. As a consequence, it took some time for the Flavours from the Masala to reveal themselves. That the Rice had soaked up the Masala didn’t help here. Subtle, but a sense of Cloves and Pepperiness was noted.

I halved each piece of Beef with my fork, Dr. Stan was in full – Yvonne mode – and was using both knife and fork throughout his meal. Firm but tender, easy chewing, the Beef was giving off a remarkable amount of Flavour. The columnar, internal structure, took me back to when I used to challenge that what lay before was in fact Lamb. Today, Beef, I couldn’t really tell the difference.

Dr. Stan and Hector cleared their plates, not a grain of Rice was left, an achievement in itself.

It’s always good – remarked Dr. Stan, who did not define – always – and the frequency of his visits here – tender meat, spicy, dry masala.

That is what we seek.

Mags, who only remembered she had previously been here after she had taken her seat:

Excellent, beef cooked perfectly, very tender. Sauce, what I asked for, medium hot. Definitely will be back, again.

We sat for a while after the meal, letting the food digest, finishing the Fanta, and chatting with Shahzad.  His brother dealt with the payment.

The Bill

€50.80 (£43.84) Prices at Chilli Grill have not increased this year. Our best value meal of this trip.

The Aftermath

Do you live in Brussel? – Shahzad asked Dr. Stan.

Talk about turning the screw? I suppose every time I go abroad with the Good Doctor, he gets to visit Brussel twice. Clearly, he has become a regular at Chilli Grill.

I asked Shahzad about the well-being of his business. I shall remind the Reader that pre-Covid, he had designs on setting up in Scotland. I was surprised to hear that it is not the increase in the price for ingredients that are the issue, but the increase in the cost of gas and electricity. With rent for apartments also going sky high, he doesn’t know how people can afford them. The bottom line, people are staying at home, not going out – to dine – or otherwise.

What am I making for Dr. Stan’s breakfast tomorrow? Some may find out.

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Brugge – Jaipur Indian Tandoori – Flexibilty, always a good sign

Another day in Brugge, another Curry. Actually, most of the day was spent in Gent where we discovered why accommodation there was at a premium – Gentse Feesten. This had attracted thousands who were being entertained at a main stage and many lesser ones scattered throughout the town centre. Beware.

Before all that, there was brunch once again with Dr. Stan and Mags. Jaipur Indian Tandoori (Blankenbergse Steenweg 29, 8000 Brugge) was the venue chosen by Hector today. Located outwith the city centre, in the north of Brugge, this necessitated a short bus ride (Bus 40). We arrived at 12.30, the door was wide open, no customers as yet. Two more couples arrived moments after ourselves, one Spanish, that would be all for this session.

A young lady greeted, offered a table and brought the menus. It was a more mature lady who would take the Order. This looked very much like a family business.

Mags’ choice today would be simple: Lamb Vindaloo (€17.95), close to her usual Aloo Gosht. This would be Hector’s fallback if the Lamb Karahi (€18.96) contained the dreaded – green mush. The three given descriptions for Karahi in Chicken, Lamb and Prawns, did not mention Peppers, there was room for optimism.

As the menu did not make it clear if Rice was included, various Naans were discussed. Some new names today: Look Naan (€3.95) was not for Hector, it’s Garlic. Fenegriek Naan (€3.95), now we’re talking – Methi, man. When it was established that Rice was inclusive, the Order became a single plain Naan (€2.95). Mags informed us she doesn’t like Methi.

The menu listed some fairly hefty prices for Rice, there is no need to order more.

I showed the photo of assorted Capsicum on the page – The Curry-Heute Campaign – to the lady and asked if I would see these in the Karahi. She answered in the affirmative, then suggested that they could be withheld. Dr. Stan chose likewise, was there a voice in his head telling him – no Capsicum?

When will Restaurateurs learn that this – Ballast – is not part of a Karahi?

Spice Levels had to be agreed. Medium-plus for Dr. Stan and myself was straightforward. Mags would have her Vindaloo toned down to – medium.

Fanta (€2.50), times three, today was almost a bargain compared to yesterday at In-Dish. A litre bottle of Sparkling Water (€7.50) completed the Order.

A young chap brought the Drinks. English was established as the Lingua Franca, however, he slipped into Spanish with ease to accommodate the adjacent couple who ordered Chicken Tikka Masala and Korma. Ah well, if this is what the masses want. They were duly given their Creamy, Soupy Curry, mild as … no doubt.

At 13.00, the waiter brought Complimentary Poppadoms and Dips, it has been a while. He told us that Poppadoms are made from Rice and fried, then talked us through the Dips: Tamarind, Mint, Raita. There was a warning that the Onions were – Spicy. When Mags nearly had a coughing fit, he came back to check all was well.

Your Onions are Spicy! – I reassured him.

During our wait for the Mains, the open door meant meant that the local fly population had decided to visit, annoying at times. Today’s background music featured the customary Bollywood screechy female vocals, no Indian-cowboy music. But hang on, that brass sounds familiar: Spaghetti Western Indian music.

At a respectable 13.15, hot plates were brought to the table. The waiter brought two pots of Basmati assuring us that a third was available if required. For once, the abundant Euro-portion of Rice was being well managed. We just about finished the second pot.

The Naan was too thin for Hector, It had risen, the piece I selected seemed to be the top half of a big blister. Oh for a risen, puffy, tear-shaped, Tandoori Naan, served whole, of course.

Lamb Karahi

The Masala looked suitably Thick and was not excessive. Halved Cherry Tomatoes had been added towards the end. Red slivers of skin, possibly Capsicum were noticed on decanting. If so, not an issue, I did convince myself that it was Tomato skin. The small cut Meat was into double figures. Finely cut Onions had been cooked into the blended Masala. No Big Blobs of Onion today, yay! No Whole Spices. Once arranged on the Rice, this did not appear to be a huge meal.

Dr. Stan was ahead of me in noting that the Spice was not registering. A slow burner. The Seasoning was well below the Hector idyll.

I suspect the Spiced Onions may have been responsible for the slow start. Once the palate adjusted to the Karahi, the Spice certainly came through. Right on the button – was noted. The Meat was Tender and was giving of Flavour, impressive in a Mainstream Restaurant. The Meat and Masala combined to give a familiar Earthy Flavour. On seeing the Soupy Curry at the adjacent table, there was an air of satisfaction in knowing that we had secured a suitably Dry Curry. Bread alone would have been the better accompaniment. Karahi with Rice does seem like an incongruity. Overall, well short of a Lahori Karahi, but in remembering which country I’m in, this was an impressive Curry.

Dr. Stan offered a few words after his customary series of – Mmmmms:

I was slow getting the hit, the spice came in the end. Plenty of meat, I enjoyed it; an OK Curry, I’d go back.

Indeed, he did appear to have significantly more Meat than was in my pot.

Lamb Vindaloo

The Masala looked so inviting, a true Curry, with the Oil gleaming on the periphery. I would happily have had this. On seeing the contents of the pot arranged on the Rice, I spotted two big wedges of Potato. These appeared to have absorbed the Masala. I was hoping to be invited to sample, not today. The lady had her – Aloo Gosht.

In time, Mags was defeated by the quantity of Rice on her plate.

Plenty lamb and potato, sauce made to preference, though next time I would have it hotter. Giving your choice (of Spice Level) makes it better.

The Bill

€72.80 (£63.30)    Note: €15.00 for Soft Drinks.

The Aftermath

The waiter brought a Garam Masala and Werther’s Originals, to calm the palate. Mags helped herself, Dr. Stan and Hector preferred to let the Flavour of the Karahi linger as long as possible.

The Calling Card was issued, now our waiter realised why all the photos were being taken. It was confirmed that Jaipur is a family affair, his sister who had greeted us earlier plus parents. Initially Mother was the cook, Father has taken responsibility. A pity there was not a further opperchancity to talk, the remaining customers had to be looked after also.

Jaipur Indian Tandoori, hardly a trek from the city centre, but well worth it. Our walk to the bus stop was interrupted, the canal bridge was raised, just the one flashy boat.  One day, Clydebank will have a bridge like this.

Menu

 

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Brugge – In-Dish – Times, are they a changing?

Curry in Brugge is certainly under-reported in these pages. In the first months of Curry-Heute, Hector watched Taj Mahal come into being, it is going strong as observed yesterday in passing. The Curry reviewed in 2011 was on a day Taj Mahal was actually closed, the Hector refusing to accept – no – for an answer.

Accommodation in Brugge is usually overpriced, this year it proved to be more competitive than Gent, so here we are. The number of Curry Houses in Brugge has multiplied in the time of Curry-Heute, but one venue in particular  has been on the – must visit – list for some years.

Any serious Bier drinker who has ever been to Brugge, has walked down Kemelstraat. Brugge’s, and possibly Belgium’s, most famous Bier House – ‘t Brugs Beertje – lies halfway down this side street. In-Dish (Kemelstraat 9, Brügge 8000 Belgien) is next door, therefore Hector has been aware of its existence for some time. With no breakfast on offer at the Ibis Budget, Dr. Stan and Mags saw Curry as being the logical start to the day.

We assembled at 13.00, Dr. Stan being already in situ and tucking in to a 200ml bottle of the distinctive Belgian Fanta (€3.00). Despite the outrageous lack of value, three more bottles were ordered plus a 500ml bottle of Sparkling Water (€5.00).

Dr. Stan failed to spot that Rice was included in the price of Curry and ordered a Garlic Naan (€4.00). We decided that this would be shared. The grid layout of the Curry section simplified matters. We would all have Lamb, of course. Dr. Stan has admitted that he hears a voice in his head when choosing from a Curry menu – don’t have Chicken. I wonder whose voice that could be?

Curry Home Style (€18.50) was hopefully – Desi-style. If so, then the Hector could be in raptures. Chilli Grill (Brussel) is the only Curry House in all of Belgium known to serve such cuisine. I dropped – Desi – into the Order, it did not appear to register with Mein Host. The Spice Level was then verified.

It is spicy – I was assured.

Dr. Stan opted for Lamb Saag whilst Mags took an even bigger risk – Lamb Karai. That we had each ordered a different Curry was good for this Blog. I had visions of a Creamy mass of Spinach being presented to Dr. Stan and a stir-fry of Capsicum and Big Blobs of Onion to Mags. Hopefully In-Dish was better than this, but this is Belgium.

Whilst we waited, we were entertained (?) by a stream of Bollywood hits. The music then took a strange turn, the introduction to one composition set the scene, the Great Plains: Indian cowboy music.

The three Curry pots arrived, accompanied by a big pot of Basmati for sharing. There was enough Rice for three sensible portions, and no wastage. The Garlic Naan was presented in bits, strike one. Thin, peely, wally, and hardly risen, I was almost writing it off. There were signs of puffiness and one piece had distinctly less Garlic, Hector’s bit, obviously.

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Curry Home Style

I arranged the nine pieces of meat, mostly large, on top of the Rice. The sauce looked like an authentic pureed Masala. This was way better than Belgium Curry of thirteen years ago when some horror stories were served in Gent.

Bay Leaves, and both Black and Green and Cardamom were encountered. Whole Spice, always a good sign.

This was indeed a Spicy Curry, there was an impressive – kick – which was not letting go. The Seasoning was below the Hector idyll, but acceptable.

*

Most of the Lamb was found to be firm but not too chewy. There was a Tangy Flavour from the Masala, but not the depth of flavour from a Desi Curry, but this was definitely decent. The Whole Spices certainly added to the efficacy.

Every grain of Rice on my plate was devoured, a well judged quantity of Curry and Rice.

A decent Curry therefore, but after eat-Doori (Köln) three days ago, only something catastrophic would not have been an improvement

Lamb Saag

In Deutschland, as is written above, Saag/Palak is often served as a Creamy mass of Herbs pretending to be a Masala. This actually looked like a genuine Palak: a Masala with Herbs. When Dr. Stan picked out a five centimetre piece of Cinnamon Bark, here was the proof that we had the real deal. There was an early – Mmmmm – from the good doctor.

I enjoyed it, it was a good Curry, a spicy Curry. A bit short on the spinach, but plenty of meat. A good Methi flavour.

There was Methi? And not a Spinach overdose? This ticks the boxes.

Lamb Karai

OK, not a stir-fry, there was enough Masala to define this as a Curry. In what way was was this a Karahi? The Masala looked to be the same as served in the Home Style Curry.

Mags said she didn’t mind the presence of Capsicum, big bits too, and the anticipated Big Blobs of Onion. Neither of these should be present in a true Karahi, however, in Mainstream Curry Houses, this is what they get away with. The Curry-Heute Campaign shall continue – no Ballast!

As a Curry, Mags enjoyed her meal, but she knows what it could have been:

A lot of meat in the Curry. it could have been more tender. A well spiced masala to give a bit of heat. Went well with the boiled rice and Garlic Naan. I would go back.

Mein Host came to check on our progress, I gestured to my empty plate, he laughed.

Who needs words?

A lady came to clear the table, I asked if she was the Chef?

He’s the Chef.

Now we know.

The Curry today was better than most experienced in Belgium, not a difficult thing to achieve, but maybe it is such is the level.

There’s hope for the Belgian Mainstream? Times, are they a changing?

The Bill

€76.85 (£66.52) Nothing is cheap in Belgium.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was given to Mein Host, the Chef. I showed him the page for Chilli Grill, my favourite Belgian Curry House. I was trying to get across – Desi – once more. That we had all enjoyed our meals was relayed. Given the familiar locus of In-Dish, we may all return.

Mein Host is from Delhi, cue the opperchancity to show places visited. He did of course recognise Gulati Restaurant.

Menu

 

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Köln – eatDOORI Restaurant – Moderne indische Küche – Street Food, not a Curry House

Curry in Köln, with seventeen Curry Houses reviewed to date, the better ones more than once, the easy choice for today was to return to the tried and tested. Perhaps against better judgement, the Hector decided to visit the Köln outlet of the chain: eatDOORI Restaurant – Moderne indische Küche (Hohenzollernring 19, 50672 Köln Deutschland). This is one of five outlets across north and west Deutschland.

There was a rendezvous with Steve at 12.45. We were both five minutes early, and so entered the otherwise empty restaurant. A few customers sat at the outside tables. The waitress greeted and invited us to choose any table. A well situated table for two was selected. Despite the dim lighting, the Hector was able to capture photos of the modern layout, but maybe not the menu.

For Hector, there was only one Curry: Lamb Bhuna (€18.90) with inclusive Basmati. The alternatives were Chicken or Prawn variants, these too were limited. Steve would take the Lamb Bhuna option also.

You only have one Curry – I informed the waitress as she took the Order. This was not challenged. Steve ensured that we would be served an – above medium – Spice Level. He also added a Butter Naan (€2.90).

The reverse side of the menu had drinks. Nimbu Pani (€4.20), home-made lemonade completed the Order. A traditional Indian lemonade, this had a Spicy edge. Black Salt is apparently a key ingredient. This I have not seen in Glasgow’s Asian supermarkets, but then I haven’t been looking.

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*

At 12.52 there was a – ding – in the kitchen, another opperchancity to call in the Guinness chaps. Twelve minutes beats Shaha Tandoori (Carlisle,England).

The karahi were placed on the plates with the ample Rice portions. Steve had two little pots of distraction, one crossed the table. With Onion, Carrot and Cucumber, enough to provide a bit of Diversity. The Naan was quartered and served in a tall pot. Thin, peely wally, not risen, no blisters, as poor a Naan as one might encounter.

Lamb Bhuna

Shorva, really? In what way was this a Bhuna?

On arranging the Meat over the Rice, I reached double figures, Steve was already commenting on how little he had. The aroma from the Masala had me mentally registering – ah, Bisto!

I was already wishing I had gone elsewhere.

The Lamb was Tender and was giving of Flavour. However, the Flavour was very much of that which registers as Spice from a packet mixture, Cinnamon may be the standout. There was a decent – kick – and the Seasoning was decidedly satisfactory. Steve reckoned something like Tabasco had simply been stirred in at the end to up the Spice. There were positives, but overall, the depth of Flavour was lacking, this did not taste of authentic Curry.

The waitress came to ask the customary question.

This is not a Bhuna – I informed her – Bhuna should have a much thicker sauce, you can tell your Chef.

I spared her – minimal Masala, as in Dry, not Soup!

She offered to change it.

To what? You only have one Curry!

The compromise was that a Thicker Sauce would be provided. A few minutes later, and that did not surprise, a single karahi of a Thicker Masala was presented.

Masala #2 had a much greater viscosity. Why had we not been given this at the start?

Here was a more potent and complex Flavour, Steve was first to identify – smokiness. Now we had something more recognisable, a South Indian Bhuna perhaps. Bay leaves and micro-sliced Green Chillies were encountered. Masala #2 was even Spicier, not a problem.

Chef passed us by and smiled. We were at least eating his Curry. It still tasted as if the Spice mix had come straight from a packet.

As a Euro-portion of Rice, this was too much for Steve, but somehow I managed the lot. To have a photo of two karahi on top of a clean plate might be a first.

Steve’s verdict:

Too much Rice, the meat, in my case, was sparse. The meat was tender. Not a great Curry, with added Chilli/Tabasco added at end (of cooking). The sauce (#2) that came was perfectly acceptable.

Over-priced, I wouldn’t rush back.

The Bill

€49.10 (£42.23) The unit price of Curry is more than that typically charged for main courses of local fayre in Bier Houses.

The Aftermath

I have good news for you – I put to the waitress as I presented the Calling Card. This was graciously accepted with a comment as to why I was able to identify the failings of the Bhuna.

I showed her the drop-down menu at the top of the Curry-Heute page. There are recipes, you should show your Chef, there’s one for Bhuna!

Alas, being part of a chain, the above criticisms must be levied against whoever is in overall charge. One hopes the Street Food may show signs of efficacy.

Posted in eatDOORI Restaurant - Moderne indische Küche | 1 Comment

Manchester – Kabana – Visit #50 !!!!!

Mr. Manchester! – is yet another moniker acquired by this intrepid reporter. On arriving at Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England) at 13.05, Rizwan, Mein Host greeted me with news that three Scottish ladies had been there a couple of weeks back. One was a former colleague of Howard and also a former pupil of Hector. Howard’s name was acknowledged, the Hector’s not.

She wouldn’t know me by that name – (or Mr. Manchester).

As I ate, all was revealed to Rizwan, now he knows.

With this being a passing through Manchester visit, today’s Curry had to be –  Karahi Lamb (£6.00) on-the-bone, of course, n top of the customary bed of Rice (£1.50). The – on-the-bone – kettle was in the process of being topped up, as was today’s special – Nehari (£6.80). Rizwan’s #2 was adding the Coriander topping to the Nehari, he almost insisted that the moment be recorded. I took the usual photo of – the foliage – also, then took my seat.

The water jug on the table was immediately replaced.

Sunday lunchtime, and the majority of the tables were occupied. Two family groups were present, an economic day out: five fed for under £50.00. Two adjacent chaps ordered Chips, wtf? Then Lamb Chops were presented, two Naan and two portions of Nehari. Well gone are the days of Hector  sitting down to that quantity of food. As for the Nehari, the customary dark brown Shorva was not revealing any Meat. There was no sign of a Lamb Shank here. But then Kabana’s Karahi bears little resemblance to that served at Lahori Badsha, another favourite Manchester Curry House on Cheetham Hill Road.

Today I counted three new members of staff out front, wiping and clearing. Such is the conveyor belt of customers in the early afternoon, that the management of the tables is crucial. Then there’s those waiting for Takeaway, and the phone orders. Kabana is that popular, and today marks Hector’s #50 Visit! Only three Curry Houses, in Glasgow, have passed this landmark in Curry-Heute.

Rizwan brought two plates, one with the Curry & Rice, the other, a generous helping of – the foliage.

Karahi Lamb

The naked Karahi had to be photographed so that one can appreciate the – before and after. I started eating from the edge of the plate to taste the rich Masala before the meal was transformed. The Spice Level was already impressive. The Seasoning registered as a tad below the idyll in Hector’s non-digital memory of the dozens of times I’ve had this Curry at Kabana. With the sliced Green Chillies, fresh Coriander and cubed Ginger mixed in, the full blown Kabana experience was underway.

If there was an award, and who wins awards, for the best butcher supplying a Curry House, then Rizwan’s would surely win? The Lamb was incredible. One could envisage sucking it through a straw. So soft, yet integrity maintained. And having sat in the kettle waiting to be served, it had fully absorbed the Flavours from the Masala. The bones seemed to have three masses of Meat on each one. This was in addition to the boneless pieces. The foliage makes this Curry more than just Meat and Masala. Take one’s time, savour every moment, every grain of Rice will be managed.

Was that nice? – asked one of the wipers as I cleared the plate.

Glorious! – was the considered response, not – very.

I took a few moments to have some water, let the food settle. Apparently, Manchester has other attractions which keep bringing us back. For the Hector, Curry is always first on the agenda.

The Bill

£7.50 This makes a mockery of the Mainstream Curry Houses.

The Aftermath

I informed Rizwan that this was a one visit trip, however, we shall be mob handed next month. I’ll be back at Kabana, and there will be the opperchancity to visit other venues.

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Glasgow – Yadgar – The Monday Club

It’s Monday, the Hector is still in Glasgow. Prior to meeting up with The Monday Club, there would be Curry-Heute, it is written. Being a non-hockey Monday, Marg knew this was her best chance of being fed today. For once, Marg got to choose the venue.

We arrived at Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) five minutes after the 14.00 opening time. The shutters were up, a Takeaway customer was in situ. She praised the Fayre here.

It’s not just amongst the best in Glasgow, it’s the best in the country – also sprach Hector.

Shafiq as ever had opened the premises. Having surveyed the ready Dishes, Shafiq then talked me through them. Most of the Order would pick itself, however, a quite rare Daily Special was on display.

Last week, Lord Clive of Crawley sent me a recipe for a Spicy Lentil Soup. On examination, this was essentially a Daal. After two attempts at Desi Korma, I was not about to rush in here, but Daal/Dansak was imprinted in the consciousness. Today’s Special – Daal Gosht!

Daal Gosht / Lamb Dansak has appeared in these pages when Shkoor, Mein Host, sent food parcels to Clydebank during Lockdown. Clive tends to have Chicken Dansak. As with a Korma, not a Desi Korma, maybe Chicken works better? Here was the opperchancity to rediscover the Daal Gosht.

Shafiq noted the Order: one portion of Fish Pakora, two Chapli Kebap, one portion of Aloo Chicken Keema, one portion of Daal Gosht, one Chapatti.

There was a voice from the seating area challenging the Chicken Keema. I had to convince Marg that this is what she had seen under the counter, and that she has had this as often as Lamb Keema.

The staff were filing in, a welcome back to Naveed who has been off on his travels. With the kitchen staff in place, the Takeaway customers were being catered for. The 14.00 rush intrigued, maybe a case for opening at least an hour earlier?

The young waiter, who I have yet to name, enquired about drinks. A jug of tap water would suffice. In time, he brought the Starters.

Chapli Kebap

Served with small pots of Raita and a Chilli Sauce, I have established that two is too much before a main course Curry. Marg took one half, she knows her limits. In effect a Spicy Chicken Burger, but these offer way more in terms of Flavour.

The Meatiness, Herb and Spice content make Chapli a wonderful snack. Note to self, when Marg has the car, order half a dozen as Takeaway.

Fish Pakora

Nine, many large, pieces of Haddock in a Spicy Batter, six came Hector’s way, yum. The moment was enhanced by pouring over the heated Chilli Sauce. This always makes the Fish Pakora even better. Fish Pakora, not a huge departure from traditional Scottish Fayre, but the added Spice creates a transformation. A Fishy Delight, and with accompanying Chapli, Hector’s favourite Yadgar Starter combination.

A simple Salad arrived as we were tucking in. This was certainly appreciated by Marg who loves her Salad.

We were savouring the final mouthfuls when the Mains were brought. One can ask for a gap, today I hadn’t.

Two large Wholemeal Chapattis were presented, one would remain untouched. Way too large, we both had our fill with Bread.

*

Daal Gosht

A mass of Yellow Split Lentils sat in what appeared to be a pureed, Oily Shorva, the Daal. I counted only five pieces of Lamb, one of which was huge. Two Sucky Bones would be revealed.

Scooping some of the Daal and almost-pulped Lentils on to the Chapatti produced an astonishing result. The Yadgar Taste!

How do they achieve this? There is magic working in Yadgar’s kitchen. It’s not every day that this distinctive Flavour is so pronounced, it certainly was today. The Sucky Bones are an obvious source, however, it can also be present in the their Vegetable offerings. The Spice Level impressed, the Seasoning also, a seriously Tasty Curry.

Whatever mental trigger had been pulled when Clive sent me his Spicy Lentil Soup recipe, was being sated by this Daal. This was all about the Lentils, yet there was Meat to be tackled. Giving of Flavour, a bit chewy at times, that it was – Lamb – felt fully justified. The comparatively minimal Meat to Masala content was well judged.

Chicken Keema Aloo Mutter

Yes, this had it all: Chicken Mince, Potatoes and Peas. With a suitably minimal residue at the base of the bowl, exemplary Keema. How many Soupy ones have we seen of late? Sometimes, Marg is beaten by quantity, today she passed the point of no return. Once the Bread was abandoned, she scoffed the lot. Mince, Potatoes and Peas, her favourite meal, who needs Bread? Unless it’s Mother’s Pride.

Perfectly cooked potato (yes, Marg had previously mentioned that ill-fated day of the Bullet Potatoes) mixed well with the flavoursome Keema. A very enjoyable dish, with little need for bread. I enjoyed the fresh salad.

Shkoor had arrived in the middle of our meal. In time we were able to chat. I informed him that his biggest competition – Karahi Palace – is, in effect, no more. That the staff had gone, and taken the recipe for their distinctive Karahi Lamb with them, is reason to mourn. Shkoor, correctly pointed out, that even with the recipe, that would not guarantee its recreation. He referred to – painting by numbers – else we could all be artists. It also takes a skilled hand to create wonderful Karahi Gosht.

The Bill

£20.00 A shared Pakora, no fizzy drinks, honourable. I can return soon.

The Aftermath

Simple farewells and expressions of appreciation.

If all goes to plan, next Monday will be different.

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Glasgow – Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen – Indian Curry!

After the second division Bangladeshi Curry had in Carlisle at the start of the week, a Punjabi Curry in Glasgow today was kind of obvious. There was little motivation for crossing the river this afternoon. The humidity was noticeable, thunderstorms were promised, heavy downpours throughout the day. Not that the hordes of the semi-clad wee girls, as The Urban Voltaire might have remarked, were taking notice. Their music festival at Glasgow Green was going ahead regardless, why not dress for the beach?

Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen (186 West Regent St, Glasgow, G2 4RU) was today’s chosen venue. The Hector needed something with intense Flavour after the word – bland – appeared in these pages last time out. Even Hector’s home-cooked effort yesterday had way more Flavour than the Curry served at Shaha Tandoori.

Arriving at Bombaywalla at 13.35, an Indian couple were coming up the stairs, luggage being hauled behind. A solitary Indian diner sat at the window table. In time two more chaps would arrive, plus another solo diner, all Indian.

The young waitress brought the menu. As expected, prices have increased since my first visits here last year. Still no sign of Sijjin who was Mein Host in the early visits. My request for a jug of tap water resulted in a glass being provided. I asked for a jug again, success. It’s quite a climb from the low level platforms at Charing X all the way up to Blythswood Square. Humidity.

In April 2022, Lamb Kolhapuri was £9.95, today £12.95. I suppose they have to protect themselves against inflation, which empirically, I have observed is running at 20% in Curry Houses. Assuming a wetter Curry than my Punjabi norm, Masala Rice (£3.25) would accompany. My two fellow diners ordered Dosa. These I don’t get, a Crepe which appears to be mostly fresh air.

In my most recent visit to Bombaywalla I have enjoyed the challenge that is the Lamb Sukka (£13.50). The Malabar Porotta (£2.95) is the ideal accompaniment for this Curry. Ideally two, but that is quite an investment. I was therefore pleased to spot a meal deal: The Bombay Malayalee (£17.95) – Lamb Sukka and two Malabar Porotta. Bring it on!

*

*

After an appropriate wait, the waitress brought the food. There was no need to send for The Guinness chaps. The Masala Rice contained fried Cumin Seeds, a simple addition, and already potentially more Flavour than Monday’s Mainstream Curry.

Lamb Kolhapuri

A mass of Coconut sat atop the brown Masala and protruding Lamb. I counted nine pieces of Meat as I decanted, all were a decent size. The Masala intrigued. Last time, this Curry was quite – Soupy. Today’s Masala was delightfully Thick, and having covered the Meat, there was not an excess remaining. Care would have to be taken if all the Rice was to be eaten.

There was a big – kick. The Seasoning was acceptable, and this is not a cop out. Last year the Hector was most certainly challenged when the Seasoning here was almost out of hand.

The Tenderest of Lamb, and giving of Flavour, real Curry. The level of Smokiness was recorded as slight last time, today this did not register. Yet, Flavour was plentiful, the presence of Whole Spices being no doubt contributing. Peppercorns and a Bay Leaf were unearthed.

Simply Meat and Masala, something I try to avoid, a Vegetable here would not have gone amiss. A pity the excellent Mixed Vegetables Biryani is £10.50.

Chef came through from the kitchen, he smiled in recognition, his photo having been posted the first time I had this Curry.

Having envisaged a wetter Curry at the outset, I was quite surprised to find myself noting this Kolhapuri as certainly being – Dry. A South Indian Dry Curry, where in Scotland does one find a Chettinad which fits this description?

The Bill

£16.20 The jug of tap water kept this within budget.

The Aftermath

I asked after Sijjin. The waitress told me he now works, well, that’s his business.

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Hector Cooks: Chicken Desi Korma, Again – Recipe : Letz cook on Reels

Oh to be able to replicate the Spicy Desi Korma as served at Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin) and in Glasgow’s very own Karahi Palace and The Village. Ten days ago I tried, the results – dubious. It was Curryspondent Bill who sent me the – Letz cook on Reels – link. Bill insists that my substituting the Yoghurt with Creme Fraiche, cost me the required – Citrus – Flavour which is a prominent feature of this Curry.

Then there was the mysterious – Magic Beans. The Caddupah Almonds aka Charoli Seeds, finally arrived. We also agreed that despite the measurements in the video clearly showing tablespoons, teaspoons of the Powdered Spices was way more logical.

It does seem to take a while to assemble all the ingredients and create first The Curd Mixture then The Barista Paste. Sir Andy Murray was still British when I started cooking. By the time I ate, he was well Scottish.

Ingredients:

500g Chicken on-the-bone (thighs are best)

The Curd Mixture:

200g Curd / Yoghurt

1.5 tsp Coriander

1 tsp Salt

1.5 tsp Red Chilli Powder

1.5 tsp Kashmiri Chilli Powder

*

The Barista Paste:

100ml Vegetable Oil

2 Medium Onions

1 tbsp Ghee

8 Cashew Nuts

1 tbsp Caddupah Almonds (Charoli Seeds)

1 tsp Coconut Powder

The Masala:

2 Bay Leaves

2 Black Cardamoms

4 Green Cardamoms

6 Black Peppercorns

5 Cloves

5cm Cinnamon Bark

1 tbsp Cumin Powder

2 tsp Ginger-Garlic Paste

1 tsp Garam Masala

Salt

Four Green Chillies

4cm piece of Ginger cut into strips

1 tbsp Rose Water

Method

1) Pour the Curd/Yoghurt into a bowl, stir in the remaining ingredients of the Curd Mixture to create a paste, set aside.

2) Creating the Barista Paste is in two parts, firstly heat the Oil and fry the Onions for ten minutes until they turn golden brown.

3) Remove the Onions from the Oil, set both aside.

4) Melt the Ghee, fry the Cashew Nuts, Charoli Seeds and Coconut until the nuts start to pop.

5) Add the Nut-Coconut mix to the Onions, blend, to create the Barista Paste, set aside. (Take care, everything here is going to be hot!)

6) To prepare the Masala in which the Chicken will be cooked – reheat the retained Barista Oil.

7) Add and stir in the Bay Leaves, Black Cardamoms, Green Cardamoms, Black Peppercorns, Cloves, Cinnamon Bark, Cumin Powder.

8) Fry for two to three minutes.

9) Add the Ginger-Garlic Paste, fry for three to four minutes.

10) Add the Curd Mixture, stir on low-medium heat for 8-10 minutes, the Oil will separate when the mixture is cooked.

11) Add the Chicken, coat with the Masala.

12) Add the Garam Masala, mix through, then add Salt to taste.

13) Slice then add the Green Chillies and Ginger Strips, cook with lid on, medium flame, 10 to 12 minutes.

14) Add the Barista Paste, stir in, mix well with Masala, cook for another ten minutes.

15) Add the reserved Onions, sprinkling of Coriander and Rose Water, mix well.

16) Cook for a further ten minutes, serve.

Having added the Chicken, it was clear the Masala would burn if I kept strictly to the Recipe. I had to add 100ml of Water to keep the Masala alive. To accompany, a simple Basmati with fried Mushrooms, token Diversity.

Despite not having tasted anything until the point of serving, the Seasoning was spot on. What else would one expect in a Hector Curry. The Ginger came across powerfully, the Powdery Texture and overt Nuttiness had gone compared to version #1. Teaspoons as measures were therefore vindicated.

The Whole Spices added so much, the Peppercorns and Cloves stood out. Why do we buy Powdered Spice, grinding one’s own Turmeric may be a challenge, but it does not feature here. With four Green Chillies and the teaspoons of Chilli, the Spice Level was not demanding.

There was a distinct depth of Flavour coming from this Masala, the Magic Beans? Maybe I’ll be adding freshly ground Charoli Seeds to future Curry creations. I did add Lemon Juice to the Rice, from here was the only sense of Citrus.

Whatever this Recipe was trying to achieve, it fell way short that which I hoped to recreate. Bill, I need a better Recipe.

Finally, the Chicken. Apart from being a solid and Meat, it added absolutely nothing. Vegetables would have been just as good, in fact better! Look how – White – the Chicken is. Is it any wonder at Nando’s, one helps oneself to an extra bottle of Sauce?

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Carlisle – Shaha Tandoori – Mainstream Curry

Carlisle, where else would one go for a city break? A trip without Greco-Roman ruins is hardly worthwhile, a phrase that the Hector may adopt with increasing regularity in the future.

Monday night choices are restricted for Curry in Carlisle. The majority of venues that popped up in searches are actually Takeaway only.

Shaha Tandoori (89 Botchergate, Carlisle CA1 1RS England) an Indian and Bangladeshi Restaurant, is not what the Hector usually seeks. If such Mainstream venues are not tried, once in a while, then the positives extolled re – Hector’s Recommended Venues – lose their efficacy.

Somehow we walked past Shaha Tandoori. Roadworks and the Polish Deli across the street meant our eyes were elsewhere. It was 17.45 when we climbed the stairs to the restaurant, a young couple were the only other diners. Having finished their meal, they departed with an additional £38.00 Takeaway, respect. This proves that some hold the fayre at Shaha Tandoori in high regard.

Two mature chaps were on duty, one taking Orders, the other serving the food. We took our time studying the menu.

It was Marg who first spotted Shatkhora Lamb (£12.70). The Hector, however, would claim this Curry. With Methi and the promise of Lemon, powerful Flavours were hoped for.

Marg settled for Hyderabadi Lamb (£12.70), nothing offensive was listed in the description, though Onions were mentioned twice. Marg has a knack of overdosing on Onion.

At £1.80 for a single Chapatti, really, a Plain Naan (£3.00) had to be the better option. A Vegetable Pilau (£3.90) also to share, should be enough food. I verified that Capsicum would not be included in any part of our Order. Two 330ml bottles of Sparkling water (£1.90) and we were set.

The Shatkhora had a single Chilli rating. I asked for Spicy. Madras – was agreed. I am always amused when one Spice scale is translated to the other.

Poppadoms (£1.00) were suggested by our waiter, I’d advise first time readers, Hector does not play this game.

We settled down for the wait. With many booths, there’s lots of private seating areas. The four diners were of course sat at window tables overlooking the main street. With tablecloths aplenty, Shaha Tandoori was markedly different from Hector’s preferred Desi Curry Cafes.

The other chap brought our food at 18.04. Perhaps I should contact Guinness and suggest this as a world record? One assumes Chef had but stirred – The Big Pot.

The Naan was served in four pieces, each glistening with butter, hopefully not – Garlic. Two quarters each, such was the overall size, we would have no problem in finishing this Naan. With risen blisters, light and fluffy, definitely moreish.

The Vegetable Pilau was also on the small side, enough to share, just. With Peas, Carrots, Onions, Sweetcorn, Potato and Cauliflower, this was as hoped, a mini Biryani.

Shatkhora Lamb

Big slices of Onion plus pieces of Lemon Rind stood out in the pureed Masala. I counted ten small pieces of Meat as I arranged my Curry over the Rice. Was the Lemon Rind an edible part of the Dish?

An – OK kick – was noted, along with a markedly low level of Seasoning. As a direct consequence, the hoped for intensity of Flavour was not forthcoming. The Lamb had nothing to offer other than its own meatiness. Unlike yesterday’s authentic Aloo Gosht at Darbar Grill (Glasgow), it’s hard to believe the Meat and Masala were anything but strangers.

Unlike the pickled Lime one encounters in an Achari, the Lemon Rind did not feel as if eating it would do me any favours. Instead of Bones, a small pile of discarded Rind accumulated on the edge of the plate.

The Lemon Flavour, where was it? There was no Citrus blast. The Methi? No flecks of Herb were visible in the Masala, perhaps yellow Fenugreek Seeds had been employed?

Without the Diversity created by the accompaniments, this would have been a particularly dull Curry. At the start, the mind was considering a midnight Kebap. At the conclusion, the appetite had been sated, of course we had finished the Naan which in itself is a rarity.

Hyderabadi Lamb

A Tarka topped the same pureed Masala as above. Chef must be proud of his Big Pot. The extra fried Onions and the missing Lemon Rind appeared to be the major difference between the two Dishes. There was no need for the Hector to have his customary Soupçon. Marg’s verdict:

A smooth and thin sauce with cooked onions and fried onions on top. The meat was bland, but I enjoyed the fluffy, Naan and Vegetable Rice.

Marg and her unintended, but regular choosing of Onion-laden Curry. And she used the – bland – word, ooh err.

Everything, bar the Lemon Rind was eaten, clean plates. It was Curry, classic Mainstream Curry, still better than the ubiquitous burgers and pizza available everywhere else.

The Bill

£36.10  Pricey given the volume of food presented.

The Aftermath

I saw you take lots of photos – remarked the chap who had taken our Order.

The Calling Card was presented, I had to explain it was more than a social medium:

I have a website.

We have one too.

And so they do, but not a lot is given away. I don’t know if any of the named persons served us today. I went on to locate the review of the last Curry had in Carlisle, back in 2015. On reading this again, the consistency is remarkable. Much of what was written about Masala Bazaar is applicable for today’s Curry experience.

The Menu

 

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