Crawley – Dosa Club 2 – More of a good thing?

Dosa Club 2 (The Broadway, Crawley RH10, West Sussex, England), which opened last weekend, is the third South Indian Curry House to commence business in Crawley this year. Lord Clive and Lady Maggie were hoping to bring me here on my last visit Dan Sath, prematurely as it happened. We ended up at Dosa Plazza around the corner. Clive and Maggie were then unaware of Dosa Plazza’s existence, Hector had spotted it from the airport bus. Dosa Plazza impressed.

Dosa Club 2 is the sister shop to Dosa Club in nearby Langley Green, reviewed in Curry-Heute some six years ago. When a second restaurant opens so close to the original, one has to wonder where the Masalas are actually prepared. One Chef two shops?

Crawley, a Curry Metropolis, but still in need of a Punjabi Cafe.

Around half of the tables were occupied at 20.30 when we assembled. We would be last to leave an hour or so later.

At Dosa Club, three of us had enjoyed the soupy Mutton Chettinad, this was the obvious Dish to go for this evening. Aha! Methi mutton (£9.50), in Curry-Heute, it appears that Methi trumps Chettinad. Clive stayed safe – Mutton chettinadu (£9.50) whilst Maggie stayed even safer – Butter chicken (£9.50).

If Keema naan (£4.00) is available, Clive is having it. Well, apart from yesterday in Whitechapel where eight quid was expected, but that was a special case. Maggie was ensuring that she would have her fill of Coconut – Peshawari naan (£3.95).

Malabar Parotta is Hector’s favourite Bread accompaniment, here it was – Malabar paratha (£2.50). Usually served smaller than a standard Paratha, I asked the waiter how big it would be. Spreading my hands, he went for the larger distance, one would possibly do. Tap Water, not to be taken for granted, completed the Order.

Minimalist décor in a brightly lit, long, rectangular, New Town shop unit. How times have changed. The musak was varied, – music for a lift – was how Maggie would later describe it. Given the nature of the Curry ordered, the Bread may have taken most time to produce.

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Served in quarters, the Peshawari naan looked too peely wally for Hector. Hardly risen, where was the rich coating associated with this Naan? The texture of the Keema naan was similar, at least the protruding Mince was brown. Had I ordered either of these, I would not have been pleased. If one is charging four quid for Bread, let’s have proper Tandoori Naan.

On seeing the Malabar paratha, I immediately ordered another. This Parotta was the standard size for Bread of this genre. The elusive White Paratha, soft, stringy, multi-layered, buttery, this was a beautiful Bread, perfect. When available a must, and Crawley now boasts two sources!

Another major plus: the food was served – Hot! Piping hot food is always appreciated.

Methi mutton

Hector’s favourite Herb was mixed through a worryingly Creamy Masala. If this is the definitive South Indian interpretation of Methi Gosht, I know never to order it again. As has been written too often, this is what one expects to be served in a standard European Curry House. How has this arrived in Blighty?

The Seasoning was noted as being – OK. That’s almost a positive in Curry-Heute. There was a – wee kick – so not lacking in Chilli Spice. One Black Cardamom was removed then another after it was bitten into. Whole Spice, another positive.

The Tender Mutton puzzled. Apart from one piece, it was far too regular in size and shape. Bags of frozen, machine-cut, Mutton cubes flashed through the mind. It is moments like this which makes one recognise the amazing quality of Lamb served at say Kabana (Manchester). Today, dubious Meat.

The Soupy Masala lacked the intensity of Flavour one hopes for in a South Indian Curry. Rice would have been the better accompaniment, however, the Parotta was not to be missed. As I ate on, liberally dipping the Parotta into the Masala, I realised that the Bread had way more Seasoning. The Bread was enhancing the Flavour of the Masala. The Bread became the vehicle by which this Curry was enjoyed. Rice and Parotta suggested then?

Butter chicken

The creamy swirl on top of the Soupy Masala says it all. This was not a Curry for the Hector. A Soupçon crossed the table – ugh, way too sweet. This was a Curry for those who like this sort of Curry. That includes Maggie. A Spice Level, but not as Hector knows it.

Maggie drew my attention to the Chicken. She too was noticing how perfectly presented the Meat was. It is of course possible that the Chef at Dosa Club 2 is a master of Geometry. That aside, Maggie enjoyed her Curry without challenge:

It was definitely a Butter Chicken sauce, but with the meat they had to work with … cubed up chicken breast.

Overall, with the Naan:

Great, sufficient, everything not too sweet.

Mutton chettinadu

With Curry Leaves, and mean looking dry Red Chillies on top, a good start. The Hector may come to accept that unless the Curry is defined as Sukka/Chukka, then a Chettinad is going to be – Soupy. But it doesn’t have to be!

Hector demanded a Masala Soupçon. The – smokey blast – was powerful. Now we’re talking South Indian Curry! This is what the Hector seeks, Curry with full on Flavour. Clive:

The Chettinad was really tasty, not a lot of meat, what meat there was, was tender. Sauce was mopped up with Naan.

The Mince content of the Naan rated a further comment:

Wasn’t tremendously well filled.

*

Scraps of Bread is all that remained at the end.

The Bill

£41.45    Definitely less than London prices.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was presented. It took two attempts for the mature chap behind the counter to confirm that this was an offshoot of Langley Green.

As we have all been to India, Clive was determined to find out from where he originated. (We can ask that?) Chennai – was the response. Clive may have been.

The service was lovely, music for a lift – remarked Maggie as we took our leave.

2023 Menu

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Whitechapel – Dilpasand Restaurant – High Hopes

Yesterday, someone in The Company mentioned – Whitechapel – as being a transit point for the other ongoing activity in this three day London trip. That was enough to have Hector dismiss any further exploration of Tooting or Southall for this year. A return to Dilpasand Restaurant (111-113 Commercial Road, Whitechapel, London E1 1RD England) has always been on the cards.

Last year, three of us shared the kilo, today it was only Hector and Lord Clive out for Curry. Two of us can manage the kilo.

Arriving at 13.15, we were the first sit-in customers of the day. We took a different table from Visit #1. A 1.5l bottle of Still Water (£2.99) was on each table, clever. The young waiter brought the menu and two bottles of sauce from the fridge. There followed a ten minute wait whilst the main waiter assembled a Takeaway, a bit annoying, we were raring to go.

Not surprisingly, prices have increased at Dilpasand since last March. The kilo of Charsi Lamb Karahi (£39.99) was dismissed. Between three, maybe, two, no way. The Hector is not ready to pay forty quid for a kilo, yet. Clive has spoken oft of the massive Keema Naan he ordered here last time. Now £7.99, this is a meal in itself. Clive’s compromise was to order Deigi Aloo Kheema (£13.99) with a Garlic Naan (£2.99). Deigi Mutton Korma (£13.99) had caught Hector’s eye. The possibility of a Desi Korma was not be missed. A Plain Naan (£1.49) would accompany. A strange choice, Hector. Having established that we would be paying handsomely for the water, I asked for it to be swopped for a cold one, duly done.

We appeared to be going around the houses before – above medium – Spice was agreed.

The Plain Naan was served whole, had a lots of puffiness, but only the beginnings of burnt blisters. A bit under-fired for Hector. Without any Butter spread across the top, it was a decidedly dry. It did the job, however, the Garlic Naan appeared to have it all. Closer to the sought after teardrop shape, it had a comparable number of risen bubbles but looked to be a much more inviting prospect. Neither of us could manage a whole Naan.

Deigi Mutton Korma

Traditional wedding style – was referred to on the menu. Deigi – apparently means – cooked in bulk. A Desi Korma is what I was hoping for.

Tarka and a threat of Coriander topped the Masala which clearly had the required Yoghurt to be a Desi Korma. Not a Creamy Curry, this should be more subtle.

The lack of Seasoning was immediately noted. The Spice Level would never get above – medium. There was an off-putting, but fortunately, only a slight Sweetness. It took me too long to identify that the Tarka-Onions were the source. By then I had stirred them in.

The quality of the Meat varied from one mouthful to the next. One or two chewy pieces gave way to the perfectly acceptable. Then there was the pulp. Quite array from the Big Pot. This handi most certainly contained way more Meat than was served yesterday at The India Club.

As I reached the bottom of the pot, so the taste of Cloves was released, where had this been hiding? This Mutton Korma suddenly was giving more. The hoped for blast of – Citrus – was not happening and so I was re-evaluating the scene.

Meat, Masala and a somewhat dull Bread. Was the Hector becoming bored?

I should have ordered Rice. Then I would probably have finished all the Masala, as it was, it became uninteresting. I had high hopes, had assumed a Desi Korma, this was not it.

Deigi Aloo Kheema

With Tarka, Coriander and Ginger Strips on top, this was certainly a unique Aloo Keema. The Potatoes were left in relatively large chunks such that the Mince was less visible. There was no more moisture present than was needed. This appeared to be a fine creation.

Tatties with a kick – was an early comment from Clive. When Potatoes absorb the Flavours from the Spices, then we have something special.

Somehow, I spotted a Bay Leaf in this melange followed by two Dry Red Chillies. The latter sparked my interest, from these lies the source of – smokiness. I asked, Clive confirmed.

Some you win, today, Clive had the significantly better Curry. I asked Clive how wonderful his Curry was:

It was very wonderful, the spice level was about right. Not as spicy hot as yesterday’s, but close. Still, plenty flavour.

The waiter came over to check on our progress. I showed him the photo taken last year, Mr. Khan was in the kitchen. Whether or not the complimentary Kheer was a consequence of reintroducing myself remains unknown.

The Bill

£39.98     I made sure we drank all of the water.

The Aftermath

Mein Host was greeted on the way out. I don’t think he remembered us. 

2023 Menu

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Westminster – The India Club (Hotel Strand Continental) – This Could Be The Last Time

As reported at the end of last month, The India Club (Hotel Strand Continental), 143 Strand, London WC2R 1JA) closes this weekend. Those who own the building have redevelopment plans for this prime site, the family who own the business appear not to have considered relocation. Whether the simplicity of the Fayre on offer would work in more modern/pukka premises, we may never now. But, never say – never.

As luck would have it, Hector was already booked for a three day trip to be spent in the capital this week. After a morning flight to Gatwick, and a check-in with Lord Clive and Lady Maggie in Crawley, it was up to – that London.

Arriving at 12.30, we expected to find people queuing down the stairs. A waiter in the restaurant asked us to wait whilst his colleague would see to us. This was the busiest I had ever seen The India Club, there were still empty tables to the left/rear. Alas, our name was added to a list, we should wait downstairs in the Bar, we would be called. An hour – was overheard. I have a booking – also.

Sparkling Water (£2.75) and other soft drinks were ordered. Minutes after taking the last seats we graduated to a settee. This generally underused room was finally being put to good use.

We were summoned at 13.00 and led upstairs to a tiny table at which three seats was a joke. In order to let the occupants of the corner table leave, Clive had to sit at the emergency exit. Fortunately, we were upgraded to the corner table.

That later arrivals were served first was frustrating, the Hector had to do his thing. At 13.15, success. Four portions of Bhuna Lamb (£13.95) and three portions of Pilau (£4.00). There was no Plain Rice £3.50) today. More soft drinks. Maggie asked for a – medium – Spice Level, for the remainder, – you can go crazy if you wish – was the instruction for the three portions to be shared by Clive and Hector.

Every seat at The India Club was occupied. I had considered sneaking back here on Thursday on my way home, but a table for one?

It took another half hour for the food to appear. The three – Spicy – portions were identified by quickly discarded slivers of Red Capsicum. How this was Pilau Rice has always been a mystery. Today, no complaints even though the Rice portion hardly covered the plate.

Bhuna Lamb

London portions, OK, the Meat count was into double figures, but a single portion always leaves one wanting more. A portion and a half does the job.

This was proper Bhuna, featuring a suitably Thick and Minimal Masala. Why do so many places get this wrong? We all noted that the temperature was better than usual Hot food – has been an unknown in my visits here. Usually, lukewarm rules.

Tomatoes had been cooked in the Masala, their Flavour, prominent. The Spice Level on my side of the table was reasonably aggressive, I knew Chef could be trusted not to go mad. The Seasoning was below the Hector idyll, but this was not subduing the intensity of Flavour in any way. A whole, Green Cardamom was revealed, the blast of Cloves took me a bit by surprise. This Curry was working on many levels. And Curry it was. The Tender Meat was saturated in Spice, giving of all the Flavours from the Masala plus its own. This is how Curry should be.

One of the best I’ve had in here – observed Clive. Maggie concurred – yes, previously they have been lukewarm.

Every morsel was consumed, the last grain of Rice. Same again – was tempting.

The Bill

£75.25   The first round of drinks was paid separately.

The Aftermath

I sneaked a couple of photos of the room. An historic day/week, with many here for a final meal. (If anyone needs their face blanked out, I can just about do this.)  Is there an etiquette in posting crowd shots?

And so, farewell to an institution serving – Curry.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – soon to become – Handi By Darbar

In the coming weeks, Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) will be transformed and rebranded as – Handi By Darbar. So Moiz, Mein Host, informed me this afternoon after another excellent Karahi Lamb (£12.00). This identifies the link with Darbar Grill which is run by Ahmed, Moiz’s father.

When Moiz took over Karahi Palace at the start of June this year, he outlined his plans to upgrade the décor in this humble establishment. Mehfil – was then mooted as a likely new moniker, Handi by Darbar it is to be.

Handi – is a serving pot. Today, Moiz posed with the copper version in which my Lamb Desi Korma was served last month. In my first visits to Karahi Palace it was the much missed clay pots which were used. Many a menu has – Handi – as a Curry in its own right. Moiz confirmed my empirical conclusion that a – Handi – can be anything Chef desires. When the Hector orders a Handi, it is usually in the hope of discovering something special, a departure from the Mainstream. Sometimes this works.

Arriving at 13.40, Moiz was upstairs preparing for a function this evening. His assistant took the Order. The Vegetable Curry on display (centre) looked inviting. Hector was not about to be distracted, no Karahi Gosht for five weeks. Since then, the aforementioned Desi Korma both here and at Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin), Bateera and Fish Masala in Manchester, Telangana and Sukka in Berlin, and both Palak and Methi Gosht in Wroclaw.

Why all the travelling? – a Curryspondent once asked.

Can you make your site more of a blog and not Hector’s favourite curry houses – accused another.

Aye right.

Late September is going to be the start of another month of Bier-Traveller and Curry-Heute. Favourite places revisited, and hopefully some worthy new venues reviewed.

Taking no chances, I advised – Assistant/Chef –  the Hector tweaks: a bit more Salt, a bit more Methi. A Chilli and Coriander Nan would accompany, no Garlic.

I looked in the fridge no Sparkling Water. Sold out! Clearly there is no demand for Sparkling Water.

The young lady brought me a bottle of chilled tap water after she had finished sweeping the floor. Another young lady entered enquiring as to vacancies, followed by two chaps who sought, who knows what? They bought nothing.

Assistant – was then able to get to work. A modest Salad and Raita were provided. The chilled Raita was super-refreshing, an amuse-bouche. Is Hector’s stomach still on CET? The wait for the main event was appropriate.

The lady brought the food. No Garlic on the Naan, as requested. What happened to the Chillies? I would soon realise that a Coriander Naan (£2.00) is really all I needed. Served whole, the size was sensible. Soft and light, I would manage more than usual. Whilst I still prefer the Tandoori, tear-shaped, risen and puffy interpretation of Naan, this proved to be most satisfactory.

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Karahi Lamb

So who needed Chillies in the Naan? The mass of sliced Bullet Chillies would provide the boost to the underlying spice Level of the Tomato-based Masala.

Hot food, it’s only when one is served steaming-hot food, that one recognises that this is not the norm.

The Seasoning was pitched a la Hector such that the distinctive Flavour of Karahi as now served on these premises was coming across. There was a rich, Tomatoey-Spice hit, not Charsi, something more satisfying, almost a tang. The peripheral Oil was soaked up by the Naan, more Flavour, more pleasure. The Meat was right on the edge, so soft, minimal chewing. Any more cooking and it would have turned to pulp. Three bones, one – Sucky – joy of joys. Meat that gives off more than – meatiness – not too much to ask, but in the Mainstream, evidently so. As the base of the black karahi revealed itself one sensed the osmosis, the years of quality Karahi that has been served on these premises. Serve – Curry in the Handi – please keep these wonderful black karahi for the Hector’s Karahi Gosht.

It was towards the end of the meal when Moiz made his appearance. Our conversion covered many topics, the lack of a true – Curry Street – in Glasgow was raised. The cluster around Allison Street being as close as we have.

The Bill

£14.00 – said Moiz.

Make it £25.00 – was Hector’s reply.

Honour restored, I wasn’t charged last month.

The Aftermath

With meat trapped in every gap – where’s my Zahnstocher? – was muttered on the bus back across the river.

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Wroclaw – Maharaja Indian Restaurant (Art of Food) – Bespoke Curry, almost

After his arrival in Wroclaw, I did wait a few minutes on Sunday evening to inform Steve that the three of us were booked for Methi Gosht (Zl44) at Maharaja Indian Restaurant (Art of Food) (Hugona Kollataja 22, 50-002 Wroclaw, Polska) today at 14.00. It’s not on the current menu, but was agreed with Sameer, Mein Host, after tasting the Lamb Palak (Zl44) which was quite simply, unique and refreshing.  An interpretation of this Curry which Europe tends to do so badly. Methi Masala did appear on a preview menu seen here three months ago, even Hector Holmes remains baffled as to its non-presentation. The photo showed Methi Masala, a Curry to savour, and hopefully not the Herb Mash which is regarded, on this website anyway, as the lesser interpretation.

Arriving on schedule, Maharaja was busy. A crowd of international student types were finishing their meals, then getting up en masse to pay at the counter. They did so individually, and today’s host, Mani, engaged with each one as they did. This took a full ten minutes.

Once the room was empty, Mani came over to greet. Thankfully, he was aware of our arrangement. Methi Gosht (Zl44) would be forthcoming, two spicy, one medium.

Where are you from – asked Mani – can you handle the Green Chillies?

We’re Scottish! – said it all.

In addition to the inclusive Rice, Marg added an Indian Butter Roti (Zl8), Steve a Garlic Naan (Zl13). Bottles of both Still (Zl7) and Sparkling Water (Zl7) plus a bottle of Mango Lassi (Zl10), completed the Order.

Chef got to work whilst Mani cleared the debris from three tables. The aroma of Garlic then Spice wafted from the kitchen. On completion of his task, Mani came over to chat.

Methi became the focal point of the conversation. Methi as a fresh Herb, as Seeds and as Powder. Mani told us that a teaspoon of Powdered Methi stirred into hot water each day is good for the joints.

After a respectable time, the food was served.

Three sensible portions of Rice, we could probably have cancelled one.

The Roti was definitely – Buttery – which would prevent it crisping. I did not recognise Steve’s Bread as a Naan. Thin, it hadn’t risen. No blisters, peely wally, how was that a Naan?

Methi Gosht

On Sunday, as I waited for the Lamb Palak, I asked myself – what have I done? The Curry turned out to be significantly different from the Euro-norm, excellent. The Methi Gosht did look closer to what I had expected last time.

With excessive moisture gathering around the edge of the karahi, and the spoonful of Cream swirled in the centre, this was not the hoped for Methi Masala.

The Spice Level was a notch above – medium – what happened to the Green Chillies? The Seasoning, which was the foil for Sunday’s Palak Gosht was missing, totally missing, as in – marked absent. The depth of Flavour which I found to be quite remarkable two days ago was not there. This Curry soon became monotonous. Yes, there was the Methi blast, thereafter, not much was happening.

Ten pieces of Meat were embedded in the Mash, I found a few fatty pieces, one or two required a bit more chewing. By now I should appreciate that these karahi may look small, they are deceptive. We had substantial Curry portions.

Those who had Bread, inevitably had too much Rice. Even Hector had to stop and abandon some grains.

Being the only one who had knowledge of Maharaja’s Lamb Palak, I have to report my disappointment today, however, starting from a blank page, my fellow diners had an alternative experience.

Steve – It was quite spiced, thought the seasoning was OK. The meat was a bit tough, a pleasant dish, no complaints. Naan bread, was doughy, whatever it was.

Marg – A lovely herby dish, with a few pieces of fatty meat. On the whole, tender. I thought the Roti looked heavy, but when mixed with the sauce, it wasn’t heavy at all. The Lassi perfected the meal.

The Bill

Zl177 (£33.77) In the spirit of the students, we paid separately.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was still at the counter, Mani therefore knew of Curry-Heute. I wrote earlier in the year that Maharaja has potential. Today this was not realised. What happened to the new menu?

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Wroclaw – Maharaja Indian Restaurant (Art of Food) – The Return

Three months ago, on Visit #1 to Maharaja Indian Restaurant (Art of Food) (Hugona Kollataja 22, 50-002 Wroclaw, Polska) there was sense of potential and the promise of a new menu. On our arrival at 15.40 the menu posted on the wall remained the same, Mein Host, not present last time, seemed not to recognise his new menu when shown on a well and reliable Curry Website.

We hadn’t taken a seat, a Hector Curry would be secured else we were walking. I showed Mein Host a photo of his Lamb Curry (Zl42) and told him I did not want  Soupy Curry. Lamb Kadai (Zl44) was mooted, could this be served without Capsicum? Apparently so, but when Mein Host mentioned Onions, I feared his Karahi may well be a stir-fry. He suggested Lamb Tikka Masala (Zl44), no thanks, then Lamb Palak (Zl44). Palak + Rice (Zl44) was agreed.

For Marg, a simple choice: Mutter Aloo Gobi + Rice (Zl28). Two half litre bottles of Sparkling Water (Zl7) completed the Order.

We took the table nearest the counter. Two other couples were present, as they departed so others arrived. Takeaway customers too, a steady business. I had time to contemplate my Order: what had I done? A Creamy Spinach Curry in Europe? Usually the aftertaste is similar to stuffed vine leaves as served in Hellas. Had I not suffered enough today? Radio Scotland had provided the football commentary, their panel insisted VAR had got it wrong. So it goes.

Sharing the litre of Sparkling Water proved to be enjoyable, well chilled, refreshing.

Two sensibly sized portions of Rice were brought to the table. I would eat every grain, Marg, who prefers Bread, deliberately would not have it all.

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Lamb Palak

The Thick Mash of Herbs put this Palak Gosht into the lesser category as defined in Curry-Heute. There was no obvious sign of a Masala. The Meat count may just have reached double figures, it was difficult to see. Having arranged the Curry on the Rice, I licked the spoon – ah, Seasoning!

The Spice grew slowly, the Spinach did not come across as Bitter as it can do. Other Flavours emerged from the Mash, the listed Spices suggested that there may well have been a base Masala. The Meat was suitably Tender but felt remote from the rest of the Curry.

Around the halfway point I realised that I was truly enjoying this creation. Usually Spinach calls me, today’s Saag/Palak was not planned. There was something quite remarkable sitting before me. This was an excellent Curry, full of Flavour, as good an example of the genre as I have encountered. Did I mention the Seasoning?

That was super-good, as some say in Berlin.

Mutter Aloo Gobi

This Vegetable Curry was served majestically. What a beautifully Thick and Minimal Masala. I wonder if this is how it is usually served at Maharaja? Marg offered me some Cauliflower, I asked for Potato, that would tell me more.

I could actually taste the Peas from the Potato such was the level of infusion. I think a side of this must be ordered in future visits. Marg enjoyed her Vegetable Curry:

A plate full of crunchy cauliflower, soft potatoes and an abundance of peas, made up with a tomato and onion sauce. A lovely change, and the Rice completed this healthy meal.

As we ate, so Mein Host came to ask the customary question. Our enjoyment was relayed. I had to ask if Methi Gosht was ever available, as per the mystery menu. Three portions were arranged for Tuesday at 14.00.

A tray of what we took to be Bubble Tea was distributed among the diners. Gelatinous and Sweet, not my thing, like drinking frog spawn. Marg was surprised I finished it.

The Bill

Zl86 (£16.53)    I like Polish prices.

The Aftermath

As Mein Host was not present last time, a Calling Card and introduction felt appropriate. He was honoured to have us, so we were informed.

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Berlin – GapShap Indian Restaurant – There is Curry in West Berlin

The final day in Berlin, returning to Punjabi Zaiqa for another – fix – was always tempting.  For the serious, this has to be the #1 Berlin Curry venue.  Maintaining the spirit of Curry-Heute, it was time to go exploring again. In the words of a Curryspondent – it’s good that you check out these places so that we don’t have to.

GapShap Indian Restaurant (Güntzelstraße 19, 10717 Berlin Deutschland) was suggested by Bruna who was somewhat miffed that Marg and I went to her local – Chutnify – on Wednesday, without her. She hasn’t been to GapShap, but it had been recommended to her. Located in West Berlin, Charlottenburg & Wilmersdorf to be precise, this is not the side of the city where Hector has found favourable outlets. To date, Punjabi Zaiqa and Chutnify are in a different Berlin League, otherwise, competence may have been over-celebrated elsewhere. Another source suggests that GapShap is an offshoot of the shockingly awful, but seemingly popular – Bahadur – where I had to declare:

If you think that’s Indian food, then you haven’t been to India.

There was a classic case of – Indian Restaurants – serving up what they think the locals can manage. I met a chap at Protokoll earlier in the week who assured me that any – Indian Restaurant – in Berlin that is also a – Cocktail Bar – should be given a wide berth. GapShap identifies as an – Indian Restaurant and Bar.

GapShap – gossip, tittle-tattle, but in the spirit of India, I shall offer – chit-chat – as a suitable translation. Across Europe, and sadly including Blighty, restaurateurs evidently believe that – Street Food – is a selling point, a magnet to those who want to snack, with a cocktail?

My research, prior to our 17.45 arrival, revealed a photo of a seriously Dry Curry and Lamb Chettinad listed on the menu. That was enough to entice. A solitary diner sat near the entrance, two smokers outside. All tables were reserved in the otherwise empty restaurant. We were given a choice of tables. I declined the window table with the open window and the smokers directly outside.

Drinks had to be sorted, a 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water (€6.40) kicked things off. The Curry section of the menu was a realistic length, not pages of endless tweaks of the same Masala one finds across the city. Lamb Chettinad (€18.90) was the initial attraction but was instantly dismissed when Lamb Sukka (€19.90) was spotted. Marg took the Chettinad option, a Curry she knows well. Indian Mango (München) set the standard for this Curry many years ago. For them, Chettinad is not a Soupy Curry, for the rest of Europe, UK included, it appears to be thus.

The Chettinad comes with Rice, the Sukka is served on a Paratha. It is possible that this is Chef’s insurance against peeps trying to have Rice with what is traditionally a Dry Curry in the extreme, but not as served a few weeks back at Spoonful of India (Brussel).

It was Shubham, Mein Host, who took the food Order. Spice level was discussed. He rated the Chettinad as three on a scale of one to five. This suited Marg. Note, in Polska, the scale often goes up to ten, and Polish Curry is sometimes served at eleven.

I can handle more, I am British! – was the Hector method of avoiding any scale that may be associated with Bahadur.

Whilst we waited, and it was a respectable time, we were given a bowl of nibbles. Cubes of Toast, seemingly ordinary, but a delightful new experience. Far from saturated, but certainly – Buttery – subtle Spice and Herbs were in there too, tasty. Knowing that I had Bread coming, restraint was shown. Marg was not for holding back. She offered me the last piece, declined.

Other diners arrived. Each new table occupied had to ask for assistance with the menu. I was amused listening to the English waitress explaining the various Dishes, and Breads in particular, to a German lady who insisted on speaking the Lingua Franca,  then translating it back to Deutsch for her companion. Five days in Berlin, I have not spoken Deutsch once. Apparently, the locals still do.

For once, the portion of Basamti was sensible. There would still be some left over such was the nature of what we had ordered.

Lamb Sukka

From the moment it was set on the table, I knew we had authentic Curry. This was seriously – Dry. With a huge pile of Meat in a Minimal Masala, sat atop the Paratha, there was an issue.

How do I eat this?

One cannot scoop up the Meat with the Bread if it’s below the Curry.

With a knife and fork – suggested Marg.

Aye right.

Marg has a preference for Bread, she had Rice, I had a buried Paratha. I tore off the exposed strip of Paratha and passed it across the table, now what?

I had been given a dinner plate, decanting was the solution. A significant proportion of the Minimal Masala had by then, soaked into the Paratha. This left a soggy Paratha and a naked Curry. I took some of Marg’s excess Rice, not what Chef had intended. I stopped counting the Meat beyond double figures, each piece was large. There was also an abundance of Big Onions, usually Marg falls into that trap. This was a lot of eating.

The Paratha may well have been – flaky – as declared, Marg may well verify. I like to – get down and dirty – so tucked in, left hand trying its best to pick up Meat with the limp Paratha, otherwise, spoon in right hand for Curry & Rice.

The Meat was well infused by the Spice. The Spice Level was more than – Medium – not demanding. The Seasoning was decidedly lacking. Still, a good earthy blast of Flavour hit the palate. No smokiness, yet there was a threatening cherry-shaped Red Chilli staring at me. I took a bite, nothing happened, better not to swallow. An even larger Red Chilli crossed the table, this we both avoided. The Big Onions proved to be a distraction from the Meat alone.

With the Thick Masala shrouding the Lamb, there was still enough to declare this Curry to be a fine example of  – Sukka. Curry this Dry in Berlin, until today, unheard of. Having eaten loads, I still had five big pieces of Lamb and some Rice to deal with. Time to abandon the remaining Paratha which, by this time, was an unappealing blob.

Marg had allocated me a spoonful of her Masala, I thought this might revitalise what sat before me. Oh, it most certainly did.

Lamb Chettinad

Topped with Ginger Strips and slices of Coconut, the Masala was significantly different from the – Mainstream. There was no Shorva here, this was a decent, Thick Masala. Again, the Meat count reached – plenty.

Marg’s verdict:

It was earthy and full of smokey flavour. The ginger strips and dried coconut made an appealing contrast to the masala. Did not require too much Rice and my small piece of (flaky?) Paratha allowed me to mop up my dish.

As Marg was arranging the Meat and Masala on her Rice, I tried a Soupçon of the Masala. Stunning, a definite – Wow! This Masala was true to Chettinad in terms of Flavour, moderately Spiced, well Seasoned, and the big South Indian Curry blast. The latter marked the contrast to the Sukka.

At the end of the meal, when the spoonful of Masala reached my plate, there was the opperchancity to celebrate further. Firstly, I bit into some Ginger which aroused the palate, then a whole Clove, another – Wow?

This was a Chettinad of pedigree. This was a non-Soupy Chettinad. This was a Chettinad being served in Berlin.

The trek across the city had proved to be a wise decision.

GapShap had earned respect in the city where Curry, apart from the aforementioned, sets low targets.

How was the Chilli? – asked the chap who cleared the table.

I decided you could have it.

Safe.

The Bill

€45.20 (£38.20)

The Aftermath

By the time of payment,  I had established that Mein Host was called Shubbam.

Introductions over, it was time to talk – Curry – and the Curry Houses of Berlin. The brackets, showing the number of visits, is as close as Curry-Heute gets to scoring or ranking. I did point towards the bottom of the Berlin Curry House list, where Bahadur sits, and shall remain.

The lack of Seasoning in the Sukka had to be raised, the outstanding Chettinad was complimented. Shubbam told me of special evenings where the food is served on Banana Leaves.  Bananas, has Hector’s life not done enough here? The chances of ever experiencing one of these events is remote. Weekends excepted, where noon opening differs, 17.00 does not fit with the pattern of a Hector day in Berlin. Berlin life is in the East. I must try to get back here. Next time, the Lamb Chettinad for Hector. Thereafter, it may be worth exploring the Kashmiri Rogan Josh (€18.90), and if the dreaded Capsicum can be withheld, the Kadhai Gosht (€19.90).

A photo was required, let’s all get in.

GapShap, there is Curry in West Berlin.

2023 Menu

 

 

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Berlin – Chutnify – Visit #4, Review #5

Between April and November last year, Hector visited Chutnify (Sredzkistraße 43, 10435 Berlin Deutschland) on three occasions, the South Indian Cuisine with its Smokey/Peppery Flavours being the magnet. No other Berlin Curry House known to Hector was serving Curry with this intensity of distinctive Flavours. Having learned of their other outlets in Portugal, Hector and Marg made a beeline to Chutnify Canteen (Porto) earlier this year. What a disaster! With no Fish or Lamb available, the Hector was forced to have a – Chicken Curry. I’ll let the reader discover my verdict on that experience.

Today, all forgiven and back on familiar ground, we wondered around Prenzlauer Berg before deciding it was Curry-Zeit @13.15. A familiar face greeted us, a table inside was requested. The other diners had chosen to sit outside, today it was warm enough to do so. This was the first time I had seen the interior of the restaurant so empty. Booking is recommended if coming of an evening.

We were brought a lunchtime menu plus the main menu. Prices have not increased since last November. For Hector it had to be Telangana Lamb available at either €14.00 or €19.00 depending on the menu, Basmati Rice included. For a change, Marg was having Lamb Thali (€15.50). To complete the Order: a 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water (€6.00) and Malabar Parotta (€3.00). This king of Breads is served as a pair, try getting one for this price in the UK.

I pointed to the main menu when ordering the Telangana Lamb. I also asked for the food to be served – hot.

I’ll tell them – was the acknowledgement.

On previous visits, the food was simply not served hot enough. The message relayed, was taken seriously. Hector’s Curry bowl was too hot to touch on its arrival, Marg did not find the components of her Thali to be so.

As prevails across Europe, the quantity of Rice presented was more than a Hector could manage. One does one’s best.

The Malabar Parotta were scrunched in a small bowl, I managed to find the space to open one out fully. Multi-layered, buttery, soft, stringy, yet crispy in parts, this Paratha variant is such a joy. Rice and Bread, indulgence, but the opperchancity to have a Malabar Parotta is not to be missed. Marg would assist.

Telangana Lamb

Previous encounters have featured dry Red Chillies floating in the Shorva, not today. I counted nine pieces of Meat as I decanted, most of these would be halved, so quite a plateful. One piece of Potato was present also, usually more.

I think an alarm bell was ringing already.

Calm. The Spice was pitched at a worthy level, not demanding, but significantly better than what is served across Mainstream Berlin Curry Houses. The Seasoning was a la Hector, all was set for the Flavours to emerge from the Shorva. Dipping pieces of Parotta into the retained Masala was one half of the eating experience. Then there was the Curry & Rice.

The Meat at Chutnify has always impressed, superbly Tender. Sampling a piece of the Potato almost brought a – Wow! – moment. The Potato had fully absorbed the Flavours from the Shorva, I wanted more! Why only the one piece?

Returning to the Meat it was apparent that it was not giving back the same intensity of Flavour, but how could it? Potato in a Curry, such a simple, but effective addition.

The Peppery Flavour was clearly present, the anticipated Smokiness not. Was this down to the missing Red Chillies?

There was still enough – good – happening here. I have been to enough Berlin Curry Houses to know how poor the opposition is. Days after my last visit here I did discover the then recently opened Punjabi Zaiqa. A totally different brand of Curry altogether, but what Berlin badly needed. Chutnify should satisfy the needs of most serious Curry eaters. For those who appreciate why Lamb on-the-bone offers so much more, Punjabi Zaiqa is the place to be.

Lamb Thali

It is evident that Thali is the choice of the majority at Chutnify.

Half a Poppadom sat atop a mass of Basmati, with the spoonful of Chutney adjacent. One was not going to leave Chutnify feeling hungry. The same Telangana Lamb with four – and a bit – pieces of Meat was the focal point. Thereafter, Soupçons of Vegetable Korma and a Daal occupied two of the three remaining slots on the school dinner tray. Cauliflower, Broccoli and Carrots sat in the Coconut Sauce. The Daal proved to be the superior – Daal Makhani. This makes a fine accompaniment to any Curry.

Dessert – was a listed component, a single Gulab Jamun sat in the corner. I wonder how many people have started with this?

Diversity is something I enjoy, yet I still find Thali to be – too bitty. Bring me a half kilo of Lamb on-the-bone, something to get stuck into. And maybe some Daal Makhani on the side.

Marg cleared her tray and had much to say thereafter:

A lovely selection of tastes brought together on a metal tray. The Lamb was very tender and the sauce thin and spicy. The Daal complemented the wonderful, crispy Parotta exceptionally well. The abundance of Rice soaked up the extra Vegetable sauce and amused me. It was fun.

Finishing on a sweet note was an excellent conclusion to my meal. Sweet syrup and a tasty sponge was the Dessert.

Meanwhile, across the table, the Hector was defeated by the quantity of Rice.

The Bill

€38.50 (£33.19) The Telangana Lamb was charged at €14.00, the lunchtime menu price. Does this explain the missing Red Chillies and minimal Potato?

The Aftermath

Farewells were brief. The customers outside always have the staff busy running in and out.

Much later, there was a football match in Nederland, ah well, so it goes.

Posted in Chutnify | Comments Off on Berlin – Chutnify – Visit #4, Review #5

Berlin – Punjabi Zaiqa – Visit #5 – Korma Trumps Karahi?

It was only on landing at Berlin Brandenburg that Marg and Hector became aware of the Air Traffic Control hiatus back home. Sometimes you win. Having checked in to our favourite Ibis, it was up to Osloer Strasse on the U8. Curry before Bier.

Punjabi Zaiqa (Tromsöer Strasse 6, 13359 Berlin Deutschland) is the only known source of – proper Curry – in Berlin. Originale Pakistanische Künche – is their tagline, is it any wonder that the Hector makes a beeline to this outstanding venue?

Arriving at 17.10, Marg spotted Fisch Curry (€7.90) on the board outside. Hector was back for the Lamm Korma (€12.90) first enjoyed here last November, and after April’s visit, it appears to be Hector’s #1 choice. Korma trumps Karahi?

Hello, how are you? – was the greeting from Adnan, the ever-present Tandoori Chef behind the counter. It is good to be recognised. A litre bottle of Sparkling Water was taken from the fridge and the Order placed. Hector prefers Rice with a Desi Korma, Marg was intent on having Bread. One Rice and one Naan (€2.90) was added. I assumed that the mass of pre-cooked Lamb on-the-bone which was on display would form the basis of my Curry.

The Rice is included – I was reminded. On offering to pay, I was invited to do so afterwards.

Two things to highlight at this point: the price of Fish being significantly lower than Lamb, and still the Rice is inclusive. One has to wonder how this can be achieved in mainland Europe.

Marg wanted to sit further in, I insisted we have a peripheral table from where all could be observed. Marg concurred that the décor, ambience here, was a cut above many a Curry Cafe. A few people were finishing their meals, in time, a young couple with an unruly wean did take the far corner table. Tantrum after tantrum, a mouthful of Vindaloo would have sorted her.

After a respectable twenty five minute wait a chap started to assemble the bits.

They like to bring everything out on trays – I had advised Marg. A Salad amused Marg for the final minutes before the mass of food was presented.

They like their Salads in Germany – remarked Marg.

I was interested in establishing if this was a German Salad with the customary Vinegar dressing, apparently not. Raita reigns supreme.

The Rice, featuring green Cardamom, was enough for three/four, classic Euro wastage. Trying to make a dent in the mountain, I took a larger plateful than my norm. Marg had around half a plateful, helping out.

The round Naan was served whole. Perforated and with Seeds, it was suitably light and fluffy.

*

*

*

*

Lamm Korma

What a magnificent sight. Could you get more Curry in the karahi? I stopped counting as I passed double figures whilst decanting the Meat to the plate of Rice. There were Boneless pieces of Lamb then dem large bones, from who knows where? Sucky Bones also featured. This would be a lot of eating. The Thick Masala oozed quality. Once again, the Herb content was obvious, the cooked in Green Chillies, less so.

The intensity of Flavour was hard to believe. The Seasoning matched the Hector idyll, the Spice Level would build. Every moment of this Desi Korma was going to be special, yet I would say it was markedly different from that enjoyed here previously. The first time I had the Lamm Korma at Punjabi Zaiqa it was comparable in taste to that served at Karahi Palace (Glasgow). Things have changed at the latter since then, and the Desi Korma I enjoyed there two days ago was approaching this. Today, no sense of Citrus, the Yoghurt flecks were not apparent. This Lamm Korma was a completely new taste experience.

Such was the size of some pieces of Meat, I had to use a knife to separate them from the Bones. Most fell apart. Tender Lamb, full of Flavour, – Muttony – was noted. By the time I added the reserved Masala, it was time to draw a line on the plate. Even more Rice would be abandoned.

Until then, it was a case of savour the moment. Lamm Korma, how can this be so good? Early last year I had almost reached the stage of – why bother having Curry in Berlin. Now it’s a matter of how often can I get to Punjabi Zaiqa?

Fisch Curry

The karahi was laden with Fish in a Thick Masala. I doubt if I have ever seen so much Fish in a Curry. Again, check the price. Always on the lookout for a decent Fish Curry, the Hector was keen to establish the quality.

Is it good – I asked, somewhat rhetorically.

Mmmm, lovely.

A Soupçon would cross the table, compared to my Curry far too sweet. To what extent this was down to the sharp contrast remains unknown. However, that this was not the same Masala as the Korma was established. I suspect Marg would be happy to have this again:

A thick, rich sauce, with a sweetness that suited the Fish which was crispy in parts, and full of flavour. An abundance of Fish with Rice, mopped up with the Naan. A very enjoyable meal.

Marg wasn’t finished. There was an Ice Cream menu. The menu photos of Ice Cream brimming over the pot did not match the tiny pot of solid Mango Kulfi which was presented.

The Bill

€32.40 (£27.86)     We had been fed.

The Aftermath

Adnan was busy as we took our leave, I’ll see him again.

Next door lies a Punjabi Grocer/Butcher. The opperchancity to purchase packets of Korma Spices was taken. How does Desi Korma differ from Karahi?

Posted in Punjabi Zaiqa | 1 Comment

Glasgow – Karahi Palace (New-co #2) – Visit #5 – My Favourite Curry?

Moiz has now been in charge at Karahi Palace (New-co #2) (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) for three months. The Karahi Lamb (£12.00) has been restored to something resembling the wonder that has been served on these premises for many years. Visit #5 in Curry-Heute is customarily when venues gain entry to – Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses – and locally to – Glasgow’s Top Rated. Today’s visit proved to be something special, the revised status more than justified.

I had already informed Moiz that I would be coming at 14.00 today. Having kept count, he was aware of the significance of this visit. Last night Moiz contacted me to advise that having prepared Lamb Desi Korma for a catering contract, he could keep me a portion. This was an opperchancity not to be missed, even though I have one planned elsewhere for Monday.

Since establishing the extreme pleasure that was the Lamb Spicy Korma (£10.00) as served at the original Karahi Palace, I have usually had Mushroom Rice (£5.00) as the accompaniment. Moiz convinced me I should have Bread. A Chilli and Coriander Naan was agreed.

I took my usual spot, the table was being wiped clean as I entered. Behold the new black covering which is due to be rolled out across the ground floor tables.

Sparkling Water? Finally, at last, Hector’s preferred tipple is being stocked. Shkoor (Yadgar) are you reading this?

All was set.

I watched the final minutes of the football in Dingwall, a comparatively easy victory. I didn’t know then that the day was about to get even better.

The round Naan was served whole! In addition to the Coriander, both red and green sliced Chillies were embedded. These appear to have restricted the rising in the centre of the Naan, the periphery was suitably light and fluffy. A sensible size, I would manage all but a scrap, most unusual.

Lamb Desi Korma

The metal pot was a first. Bullet Chillies had been cut lengthways, no shortage of Chillies then. The thin, blended Masala contained the telltale white flecks, Yoghurt, not Cream. And no Coconut, Desi Korma bears little resemblance to that served in the Mainstream Curry Houses. I counted eight pieces of Meat featuring one Sucky Bone and two pieces of sinew. Had I stuck to my guns and ordered Rice, the Masala would have disappeared. Today, the Naan proved to be the ideal accompaniment.  More Masala required?

Hot food, always appreciated. The first intake revealed a big blast of Spice. The Seasoning was spot on. The distinctive Desi Korma Flavour was present, almost Citrus. Perhaps serving this Curry with sliced Lemon would accentuate the Flavour further? Pepperiness was coming across, a touch of Namkeen also? This Curry was already impressing, then there was the Lamb, wtf?

I write too often about Meat not giving back enough Flavour. This Lamb had clearly sat overnight in the Masala. The Spice given back was a veritable explosion on the palate. This super-soft Lamb was Super Spicy! On a scale of one to ten, this was – eleven! With Chillies everywhere, I had considered avoiding the Bullets, these were tame once I had started on the Meat.

Tears in the eyes, runny nose, there are no photos, just as well. This Curry was – the full works. Magnificent, all a Desi Korma can be. It was finished all too soon, the Hector wanted more! This was always the case when this was my favourite Curry as served along the street at The Village. They don’t do it as well as they used to.

Anything else? – asked Moiz.

Next time, keep me a half-kilo!

Moiz announced that he could cook a Desi Korma at any time, though admitted that it is better done in batches. Maybe I’ll find someone to share the kilo? (Curryspondent Derek?)

At the end, with a mouth on fire, the Sparkling Water was thoroughly appreciated. Bubbles too. Green Tea was then offered, and graciously accepted. Tea does highlight the Spice before tempering the palate.

Moiz bade farewell, he was off for supplies. I was told his colleague would handle the payment.

The Bill

Unknown. I was advised that I could pay next time. I shall insist.

The Aftermath

The rain had stopped, momentarily.

On Monday, Lamb Desi Korma, with Rice! And Marg will be there to witness the moment.

 

Posted in [Handi By Darbar] | 1 Comment