Glasgow – Namaste by Delhi Darbar – Bouncing Back To The Mainstream

Having only become aware of the existence of Namaste by Delhi Darbar (St Enoch Centre 1st Floor, 55 St Enoch Square, Glasgow G1 4BW) in recent weeks, it meant there were now three venues in Glasgow on the – to do – list. Reviews elsewhere are positive, but not all specifically about the Curry.

I doubt if I have set foot in the St Enoch Centre since Debenhams closed. Apparently, facade aside, the whole kaboodle is due for demolition. Walking through the various levels today, people are already pulling out of what is now a sorry sight in terms of retail.

It was established that Namaste is close to the cinema, the Hector took escalators all the way to the top assuming movies had replaced ice-skating. The mini-Vegas took me by surprise. The cinema is at the opposite end, where BHS used to be.

Two diners were visible in Namaste as I entered the restaurant at 13.57. Regular readers will appreciate that such a precise time is building up to, well, wait and see. The waitress placed me near the fellow diners, such that I could hear their conversation, no need for this in such large, empty premises. Window dressing, but without windows.

I had previously  studied the menu on-line and was therefore aware that there was only one Lamb Curry on the menu which was worthy of the Hector. For the record, and the nth time, Capsicum does not belong in authentic Karahi and Hector does not recognise Chicken Curry. This is Curry-Heute and that is how it is.

Lamb Bhoona (£10.00) and Basmati Pilau Rice (£4.00) was the Order, plus tap water. There was little point ordering Bread and leaving half of it, as tends to be the case. Four quid for Rice, that could be a hefty portion.

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Taking in the surroundings, it was evident that many Shekels had been invested in the décor. I would have appreciated seeing the premises from the inside, looking out. What happens to all this in the coming future?

The India Club at Hotel Strand Continental (Westminster) – will close on September 17. This is sad news, developers having their way there too. The long established India Club, formerly the staff canteen for the Indian Embassy, is one of only a handful of Curry Houses in Britain where the simple, straightforward – Curry – is that exceptional, one could pick it out in a line-up. One more visit is scheduled, if we can get in.

At Namaste, there was always the hope that Chef had something special waiting, something distinctive, this is always the hope when visiting any new Curry venue. I didn’t have long to wait, eight minutes after taking my seat, the food arrived. Call in the chaps from Guinness.

The Curry was in a soup plate, the Rice on a platter, no third plate. Why do restaurants do this? Adding Rice to a plate of Curry feels absurd.

The portion was standard, every grain would be managed.

This £4.00 portion was not for sharing.

Lamb Bhoona

The reasonably Thick Masala contained Syboes and featured seven pieces of Meat, not the magical eight. Rice was definitely the correct accompaniment, whilst not as – soupy – as my recent Bhuna in Köln, I had nothing to compare it with here. If this was – Bhuna – then what is their Curry like?

Finely chopped Onions and traces of Herb had been added to the blended Masala. Having counted the Meat, twice, it was decided that six pieces were worthy of halving, else all could have been devoured in a time comparable to its serving.

The Sweetness of the Masala hit first. The Seasoning was moderate to low. Having billed the Spice as being – medium strength – this quite impressed, a modest – kick.

The Lamb was super-soft, minimal chewing required. Decent Meat, but it was not giving anything back in terms of Spice or acquired Flavour. Tomato became evident in terms of Flavour, no skins/seeds were visible, no Whole Spices. There was a Seed in the Rice which I could not identify.

I have had this Curry, in effect, a hundred times. This was what passes for – Curry – across the European continent. Mainstream Curry for the masses, nothing offensive, safe, easy to eat. I know people who would happily devour this.

How I am going to miss the Curry at The India Club.

The Bill

£14.50   Look back to last Monday.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was given to the waitress, my Curry preferences and travels were duly described. This was just Curry – felt like an appropriate summary.

If the Calling Card was passed up the chain of management, nobody came to talk.

Next Monday’s Curry will be something – very special.

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Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – Sometimes A Great Notion

When Dr. Stan sat beside the Hector on Thursday at Kabana (Manchester) with his Rice & Three, the sight of the Spinach on his plate was enough to plant the notion. Back home, briefly, well it is the time of the year for – trip overload, the choice of venue and Curry was already decided: Kofta Palak (£11.95) at The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA).

A decade or so back, Dr. Stan and Hector used to wind up Hassan/Lahcen at Cafe Salma by sharing a portion of Kofta Palak as – Dessert. Dr. Stan was briefly tempted to join me at 14.00, had he done so, he would avoided a soaking a couple of hours later. Hector’s seemingly personal rain cloud was taking it out on someone else today. I keep asking – where is summer?

Eight diners were in situ as I was invited to take a small table in the middle of the room. More would take their place, a steady trickle. Saturday afternoon Curry.

The Order was taken promptly, a Tawa Chapatti (£1.25) would accompany, a jug of tap water would be sufficient liquid. Above Medium – was noted for the level of Spice. Everything was recorded on paper. Pads no more?

My last visit here was for Dr. Stan’s Birthday Curry at the end of May. Slowly the number of reviews at The Village heads towards #100. However, prior to Curry-Heute, Hector would eat here three times a week if circumstances permitted. The halcyon days.

For Hector, the – Lamb – section of the menu is a focal point: Methi Gosht and Achari Gosht have been had oft. Kofta Kirahi has yet to be tried. Apart from – Pineapple – I wonder what the difference is between Daal Gosht and Dhansak Gosht.

The Tawa Chapatti was a good size, in other words, more Bread than a Hector can manage. Fluffy, and with a hint of layering, this was a delightfully soft Chapatti. The soft texture maintained, and the Wholemeal Flavour did not overwhelm.

The presentation of the Raita puzzled.  This played no part in my meal.

Kofta Palak

With but a threat of Coriander atop, five medium-sized Meatballs sat in the Thickest of Herb-rich Masala mashes. The Oil which would become visible at the base of the karahi was enough to confirm that there had been a Masala at some point.

I have no understanding as to why the desire for Spinach becomes so strong once the notion is triggered. Scooping the Masala Mash on to pieces of Chapatti marked the beginning of a series of intense moments of Flavour. The Masala Mash was well Seasoned, Earthy in Flavour with a slight bitter taste.

The quantity of Mince did not seem to suggest a favourable ratio to the Masala Mash, even after each Meatball was cut into four. The Kofta had distinctly less Seasoning, but it was from these Meatballs that the Spice Level built steadily. Mouthfuls of Chapatti/Masala Mash alternated with Kofta/Masala Mash. Thus the maximum pleasure was extracted, until…biting into a Cumin Seed released an explosion of Flavour on the palate.

With the notion for Spinach sated, it was time to consult the trusty – Oppo – and see if the chaps along the road at Ibrox could come back after losing a penalty.

All was well.

The Bill

£13.20   Bigger price, smaller portion, than this week’s indulgences in Manchester.

The Aftermath

With no familiar staff to chat to, it was back out to face the elements and what is passing for summer in Glasgow in 2023. At least the buses were running properly after the much lauded international cycling event.

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Manchester – Kabana – All Good Things

The final day of this trip: this means the Hector does not have to have Curry tomorrow, though thoughts of Kofta Palak on Saturday are already looming! In keeping with the name of this Blog, another Manchester Curry had to be squeezed in. 13.20 at Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England) was a good time to arrive, the lunchtime rush being over.

Rizwan was keen to tell me that Craig and Yvonne had been in earlier, their third visit in four days. The less said about their choice of Chicken and Capsicum, the better. Kabana has something for everyone, Vegans too, I had to verify this a bit since on behalf of a friend.

Rizwan was able to tell them that I had been up at the other Kabana (Cheetham Hill) yesterday, having Quail. He also informed me that two chaps from Edinburgh had been in, followers of Curry-Heute – home and abroad!

Followers, but not Curryspondents, unless I have missed something. Do get in touch!

Today’s Curry, a repeat of a successful creation had here in January. I can just about get away with calling it – Fish Karahi. I am able to quote the elements and their prices based on the posted menu. The cost of the crowning ingredient would be established at the time of paying. Fried Fish (£5.50), Rice (£2.00), Salad (£0.50), and a bowl of the Masala from the Karahi Lamb (£?.??).

Marg, who had not had Curry since Monday, was happy to order her favourite once again: Keema Peas (£6.50) and a Chapatti (£1.00).

We took a table in the back corner, a bit of a squeeze, but such is the seating at Kabana. Marg was facing the counter, Hector had the wall.

Rizwan brought a plateful of the – foliage. The Coriander was back. Was that all I was getting? Emoticon understood.

Keema Peas

This portion had Oil collecting on the edge of the bowl whereas Monday’s had not. One of The Company had remarked on the quantity of Peas. If one is not adding Potato, then let’s have a decent quantity of Peas. After the ritual photo, Marg added a modest sprinkling of Coriander and some Ginger, not Green Chillies.

I liked the little bit of Coriander and Ginger I added.

The Chapatti shows clear signs of having risen, this was beautiful Bread.

A Creation – Fish Karahi

The Fish was presented on top of the Rice, and adjacent to the Salad and Raita. Spiced Onions had been squeezed on to the plate also.

A standard-huge Kabana portion.

As I decanted some of the Masala so I was amused to find Sucky Bones! Rizwan had given me the Masala from the better of the two Karahi pots.

There was still the – foliage – to add.

It was good to have Spiced Onions without the oft used red food colouring. Crunchy, Spicy, this would give additional Texture to the Creation, as would the Salad components.

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The Fish produced an instant – Wow! It was difficult to determine if the coating was a fine Batter or Breadcrumbs. Rizwan would later confirm – Batter – and a secret recipe. Coley (Saithe/Pollock) from the Cod family gives off a potent sense of – Fishiness, just what the Hector seeks. White and firm, nothing – rubbery – here. Without the Masala, this would not have been – Curry. Using the Masala sparingly to cover the Fish and maintain the moistness of the Rice, the Creation was living up to expectation.

Rizwan came over to chat, he talks to all his customers. Yesterday’s Quail was discussed. Sweet with a kick – was how Rizwan described the accompanying Masala. Exactly as Hector has written.

Why have I only seen Paul and not his brother – Mani – in recent visits?

Mani doesn’t work on Wednesdays.

No Quail for Mani.

Rice & Three

From her advantageous viewpoint, Marg saw the arrival of Dr. Stan, his second Curry in three days. Dr. Stan moves in mysterious ways as was established recently in Brussel. The Good Doctor had Rice & Three (£9.50): Spinach + Potatoes, Keema Peas, and Karahi Lamb. By restricting my space further, we managed to squeeze him onto the table beside me. Opposite would have been impossible.

The Hector was still eating, the tail of the Coley and the remaining Masala. It was decided that the Rice which was still white would be abandoned.

Satisfaction achieved.

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Mags came in. Karahi Lamb on-the-bone and a Chapatti for Mags. This was reviewed once more earlier this week.

With no chance of sitting at ours, she secured the back middle table which in theory can accommodate six. The seating and tables move, flexibility is the name of the game. Everyone is accommodated.

Six of The Company had eaten at Kabana today, and four others earlier in the week.

The Bill

£17.00   I deduce the bowl of Masala was £1.50, £2.00 at most if the Salad and Onions are part of the Fried Fish order.

The Aftermath

Rizwan was chuffed with himself for adding the Sucky Bones. He even used this vernacular. It had to be.

Once again, Rizwan offered to cook me a Fish Karahi given notice. If there’s a Manchester Beer Festival next year and we once again return mob handed, the challenge will be set.

Stepping outside, I had to record the graffiti opposite, this sums up the last six weeks:

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Manchester – Kabana (Cheetham Hill) – Bateera – It’s Wednesday!

It’s Wednesday in Manchester, the opperchancity to have Bateera (Quail) at Kabana (Cheetham Hill) (133 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester, England M8 8LY). Strangely, none of the rest of The Company were attracted by the thought of – fiddly Quail, some went to Kabana original instead.

Before committing to the twenty minute walk from Ancoats, the Hector thought it best to confirm that Bateera was on today having been disappointed once previously. Rizwan confirmed it was so last night, a phone-call to Cheetham Hill at noon arranged a portion to be retained. Belt and braces.

As we passed Lahori Badsha where we had an excellent Lahori Karahi yesterday, a new addition to this Northern Curry Mile was spotted Lahori Butt Karahi. That’s a venue for a future trip.  I can now confirm that Dera, the place with the tractor outside further up the road, has gone.  Our last visit was in October 2019.  Since the passing of Covid I have been unable to make contact.  Today, I established the rebranding – Royal Manchester Restaurant – it’s all happening on Cheetham Hill Road.

Arriving at Kabana CH at 13.50, Paul was busy arranging a massive Takeaway, his assistant recalled my name when I asked for Bateera.

A foil container was produced, evidently Takeaway had been assumed. A reheat was arranged and the order given for a Chapatti (£1.00) and two Samosas (£1.50) for Marg, one Meat, one Vegetable.

I was pleased to see abundant – foliage – on the counter, on Monday the main Kabana had run out of Coriander, not that I shall keep mentioning this.

The Samosas were plated and taken over to Marg.

Samosa

An average size, and looking a bit naked without any Salad or Raita, just a snack. I had declined – Sauce – at the counter, the thought of smothering the Samosas did not feel right. Ahead of the game, Marg thoughtfully took the photos of the interior of each Samosa.

The Meat one was dry with a good flavour of Keema. The Vegetable one was very moist and spicy with potato, peas, plenty vegetables.

Having completed the foliage ritual at the counter, I took my booty to the table. The large Chapatti was layered. The Wholemeal flour proved to be potent, a powerfully flavoured Chapatti. Also filling, I would manage about half.

Bateera (Quail)

The Thick, Blended Masala had quite a – kick – the added Green Chillies would take this up another level. There was a definite Sweetness to the Masala, it is not known if this was a by-product of having encountered the Quail. With the Masala scooped into pieces of the Chapatti this was satisfying in its own right.

How do people sit down to five Chapattis? Marg told me a chap sitting at the window had ordered Seekh Kebab, multiple Chapattis and a main course. Maybe the latter was finished, the Starter and the majority of the Chapattis were abandoned.

Meanwhile, two chaps sat in my view with mains, Chips, Biryani, and Naan. Again, mass wastage. I felt no guilt when I had to leave half a Chapatti.

Quails are fiddly, one is not enough, two are surprisingly satisfying. Or, is it the thought that tackling a third would drive one to distraction? The Texture is different from Chicken, at least the Hector is convincing himself that this is a much more Gamey experience, much tastier Meat.

Salty lips – the second time in a week I have noted this, however, this was whilst I ate. That the Seasoning was at a decent level can therefore be confirmed.

What appeared to be so little certainly filled the gut. The sorry sight of the skeletons piled on the adjacent plate turned to amusement when one tiny – wishbone – was set aside. And no, we didn’t.

The Bill

£11.00

The Aftermath

The serving chap called me by name once again, always a nice touch. The seating area was nearing empty as we departed, Takeaways were still flying out the door. Why don’t we have places like this in Glasgow?

This was Visit #5, Kabana CH deserves its own page and its place in Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses.

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Manchester – Lahori Badsha – The Magnificent Seven

The invitation was extended, those wishing to join Marg and Hector at Lahori Badsha (140 Cheetham Hill Rd, Manchester, England M8 8PZ) should meet in the lobby for 13.00. To share a kilo of Fresh Lamb Karahi (£25.00) requires multiples of two or three. We were seven: two kilos – not enough – three kilos – too much. Marg would make the formula simpler by opting for Lamb Chops (£8.50), an opperchancity to have five to herself.

Dr. Stan and Marg set off on foot whilst Hector sorted an Uber for five. The advance party arrived at Lahori Badsha at 13.10. Mein Host and Chef: Nasar Ullah Khan Raja – to give him his Sunday name, recognised the Hector.

Only one large table was free, we spread out and waited a considerably long time for the table to be wiped. If there is a fundamental criticism to be made at Lahori Badsha, it’s about the slow service out front, cutlery for example, was very much an afterthought. When Marg and Dr. Stan arrived they were given menus, the rest of us had to twiddle our thumbs.

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In time, the Hector got to work.

Two kilos, four Naan (£1.00) and Lamb Chops. Some dared to question the Bread order. Knowing what comes, this should be enough. With no Keema Naan on offer, Clive accepted the flow. Water was also ordered, the first of two – two litre bottles – (£3.00) was presented, sneaky. A jug or two would have sufficed.

We were seven, however, eight plates and glasses were brought to the table. Salad (£2.50) and Raita (£2.00) followed, but not the means of dispensing. The Lamb Chops then arrived leaving Marg to go in search of cutlery. By the time the Salad reached my end of the table the Karahi was ready to be served.

Fresh Lamb Karahi in Lahori Style

The first kilo was placed between Hector, Steve and Maggie. There was that brief moment when we looked at it and wondered, is this actually two kilos? This was a lot of Meat. The second kilo and the Naans, some halved, were placed at the far end of the table. Dr. Stan would be sharing with Clive and Howard. Chef monitored the proceedings. I wonder how often he has had to prepare two kilos simultaneously.

Ladies first, and so Maggie was first to be in raptures, but only after she went through the ritual of fearing all might be too Spicy. As if. This was Maggie’s first ever Manchester Curry, what a place to start.

With Naan, Salad and Karahi arranged on the plate, it was time for Hector to get stuck in.

Wow!

This was only the third time I have mustered enough people to justify the kilo at Lahori Badsha . After today, I believe there should be no problem with numbers. Lahori Karahi, the – King of Curry, today’s was truly spectacular.

The Meat was astonishing, apart from my final rogue piece, it was melt in the mouth. The Flavours from the pale, Peppery Masala flooded the palate. What a texture. Tomato-based one assumes, it was difficult to tell. The occasional Tomato skin was visible, but the telltale seeds were not prominent. As always, the Hector was mesmerised, how do they make this? The texture can be replicated, but this depth of Flavour?

Having taken a decent portion, it was back for more. Steve and Hector ensured the karahi was wiped clean. Not much attention was being paid to the action at the other end of the table, too far to tell if Dr. Stan was uttering his usual – Mmmm.

In our trio Steve stopped eating first. Maggie was right there at the end for the final spoonful. Three sharing was ideal, two would have been excessive.

Maggie had avoided the sliced Bullet Chillies, she therefore had no issue with the Spice Level. The Seasoning was spot on, not intrusive at all. I apologised for bringing my friends here and putting them through this ordeal. I was forgiven.

Steve concurred, this was the best Lahori Karahi we have experienced at Lahori Badsha .

In the course of the day, quotes were secured:

Steve – succulent meat, wonderfully spiced, no complaints.

Maggie – amazing meat, too many green things, I gave them to you. Half a Naan was plenty, the Salad was adequate, plenty of flavour.

Clive – lovely, tender meat. Spot on spicing. Lovely consistency of the juice, could not be called soupy by any means. Could be a bit more imaginative with the Naans.

Yes, Clive could have eaten a whole Keema Naan today.

Dr. Stan – a really good Curry, good selection of spices, very rich, and the meat was tender. Yes, I liked it.

Howard was as eloquent, as ever:

It was evident from the very first taste that this was an excellent Curry. The sauce had flavour and a perfect spice level. The lamb, for the most part, was soft and elicited its own superb flavour.

This was not the end of Howard’s decree, the Hector had been duped.

Lamb Chops

Reasonably well-fired – was Marg’s verdict. A lot of Meat on the Chops, tasty.

With the Salad and Raita, Marg had quite a plateful. The fifth Chop was on offer, but the Hector had no room. I encouraged Marg to have the fifth, the only chance she might ever have. Little did the Hector know, but sleight of hand was at work.

Howard had the fifth Lamb Chop!

The bone was even returned to Marg’s plate to maintain the illusion.

The Lamb Chop had its own separate, but distinct flavour and was an excellent addition to the main act – remarked, my friend…

The Bill

£68.50 There was no charge for the Salad and Raita which made the £6.00 for water bearable. We agreed £12.00 a head for those who had Karahi, and paid individually in a combination of cash and card.

The Aftermath

Whilst the payment was being sorted, Chef produced his phone. Hector’s profile on a certain social medium was displayed. We are friends.

As we departed, Marg drew my attention to the gas stove where the pressure cookers were performing.

We had  devoured their afternoon quota of Lamb, time to cook more.

How long is a – Whistle?

 

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Manchester – Kabana – A Symphony of Flavours

The Company – are  mob-handed in Manchester this week. Whilst many will head to Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England) over the next few days, Marg and Hector made Kabana the first calling point after check-in at Ancoats.

Arriving at 15.20, Rizwan, Mein Host was out back, Lalaa, his able assistant was ready to serve us, but the Man himself magically appeared.

The usual? – asked Rizwan. This was confirmed, plus Keema Peas (£6.50) and a Chapatti (£1.00) for Marg. Marg’s – usual. Both the Karahi Lamb (£6.50) and the Rice (£2.00) have gone up by 50p since my visit last month.

On taking a table mid-room it became apparent that English was not being spoken at the adjacent occupied tables. A range of European languages were heard, people are discovering Kabana. Two kids were tucking into Chips, not the awful boxed, frozen impersonators that many venues serve. These Chips were huge, flat, and even made from Potato.

Rizwan brought the Order as the components were ready. Kabana is fast food, only the Chapatti had to be fired. The Chapatti had risen, and was delightfully light and fluffy. The two bowls of – foliage – were brought from the counter, no Coriander, Kabana had run out. Disgraceful, what greedy customer(s) had excessively smothered their Curry with this fine Herb?

Do you need the Chillies on top? – asked Marg.

It makes it a challenge – was Hector’s reply.

Karahi Lamb on-the-bone  / Rice

The naked Curry had to be dressed.

When Rice is ordered at Kabana, it’s a matter of how much food can one get on the plate? Double figures – is only a rough estimate when counting the Meat. The Meat to Masala ratio is such that one has to manage the latter when having Rice. Kabana is the only place I have Rice with Karahi.

The quality of the Lamb never fails to impress, one day I’ll establish the breed of animal. Cooked to perfection, as always, the – right – amount of chewing was required. Despite the quantity, Hector would not be exhausted on completion of this Curry.

The mouth feel the Masala creates is one of comfort, so smooth. And if Clove is the underlying feature of a Manchester Curry, then this is but an overture to the symphony of Flavours thereafter. Black Peppercorns were unearthed as I ate, the only sign of Whole Spice.

Marg was amused when I took the Sucky Bone and – sucked – out the Marrow. It’s good to have an audience.

Seasoning and Spice Level is a given at Kabana. The – foliage – adds that bit extra. It’s always with sadness when one reaches the end. Not a grain of Rice was left.

Keema Peas

This was a classic Keema Mutter, no sign of peripheral Oil, and no Masala per se.

Marg did not feel the need to decorate her Curry. With abundant Peas, maybe there was enough distraction from the moist Mince.

A full bowl of well seasoned Keema Mutter. Full of flavour, and one of the best, soft and largest Chapattis, complemented the Curry.

On another visit to our table, Rizwan mentioned a recent article in the Manchester Evening News. The author knew of and had evidently visited all the Northern Quarter Curry Cafes except Kabana. Keeping the best to last? The Lamb Chops (£6.50) were enjoyed here, one Dish the Hector has yet to experience.

The Bill

£16.00 For two, amazing! And that’s after the modest price increase.

The Aftermath

Lalaa is always happy to pose for a photo. I can now reveal that he is in fact – le Chef! Meanwhile, Marg spotted a chap with a proper camera and assumed he was another Blogger. Apparently not, but the Calling Card was handed over anyway.

Why were Marg and Hector so smug as, one by one, the rest of The Company realised that it was late, and they hadn’t eaten?

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Glasgow – Shinwari – Afghan Cuisine : Shinwari, A Name Resurrected

Another Summertime Saturday in Glasgow, The Glorious Twelfth as it happens. Fear not, the Hector is not off to grab a brace of Grouse, however, if someone knows anywhere in this city serving Baterai/Quail without advance notice, do let me know. Maybe Wednesday, next week in Manchester?

The rains have not subsided, the city centre streets remain blocked off, most bus routes are affected. I can only imagine the shock when passengers find themselves speeding up/down the M8 under Charing X to accommodate the cyclists above. So it goes.

At 13.50, across the river, Hector found himself once again in Allison Street. As spotted at the start of the week, what was: Lasani Grill, Al-Anwar, Basharat G’z, Spice Haven, Nan Factory, is now Shinwari. (223-225 Allison Street, Glasgow, G42 8RU).

The dining area appeared to be untouched since I last ate here. Two tables now occupy the entrance area along with a fruit juice bar, yet to be set up. If I was going to engage, out front seemed like a good place to sit.

Ready Curry was on display, one stood out (below right). I took this to be their Chicken Curry (£5.00) as advertised on the board. With a presumably Yogurt-rich Masala, this almost looked tempting, OK a fallback, last resort even,  if my intended Dish was not yet available.

Yes, this was something different.

I found a menu on the counter, the glorious Namkeen Karahi (£30.00) was only available by the kilo. Marg had nearly joined me today, but knowing what awaits next week, decided otherwise. I shall let her down gently. A half kilo of Lamb Charsi Karahi (£15.00) was what was in mind upon arrival. There was no premium for ordering the ordering the half kilo, customer friendly.

A mature chap took the Order. Above medium Spice, not crazy – raised a smile. This seems to work. No Chapattis, a Plain Nan (£1.00) would do. Realistic Bread prices. I noticed that – Nan Factory – is still prominent behind the counter. That incarnation was an offshoot of – Original Khyber – in Shawlands.

My choice of seat was to hopefully engage the chaps working and establish how this Shinwari has come about after the demise of the once nearby Shinwari Restaurant. In all, I counted six chaps working this afternoon, quite an investment at a venue which either keeps failing, or proves to be too much to handle.

Ten minutes after placing my Order, a young chap brought out the Karahi and Naan, then quickly presented an extra plate for the bones, plus a bottle of chilled water with accompanying glass and napkins. How he got all this on the table in seemingly an instant, did impress. A disturbingly quick Karahi, but if the kitchen is set up to produce this regularly, so be it. It doesn’t take that long to create a Tomato-based Masala. Still, the chaps from Guinness Book of Records could be called here.

Sliced in two, the Naan was huge given the price. The Tandoor was within sight of where I sat, but with perforations, the Bread had not been allowed to rise.

I thought I might manage half.

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Lamb Charsi Karahi

The portion looked to be substantial, but still very much – a portion. How the half kilo is measured has never been defined. The Ginger Strips on top were plentiful, a sprinkling of Coriander sat beneath. The watery residue I have come to associate with – Charsi – was collecting around the edges. The Masala was the distinctive, Tomato based, yet there was not the abundance associated with – Charsi. Not a trace of – pink.

The lack of Seasoning was immediately noted. The Spice Level was never going to be ferocious, but built steadily. Segments of cooked-in Green Chillies were unearthed as I made progress. A Tomato, then Peppery blast hit the palate. The depth of Flavour in a Charsi Karahi tends not to match that of a Lahori Karahi. Tends not to, however, two weeks ago at Afghan Darbar (Antwerpen) a new standard was set for Afghan Cuisine. There was an Afghan Karahi with an outstanding depth of Flavour. Today’s was on a par with what is served in Glasgow.

The Meat was chewy, the majority of the pieces were on-the-bone, two small Sucky Bones and many others. Care had to be taken, tiny bones, dangerous if not addressed properly. The Flavour of the Lamb itself was pronounced.

I was taking my time, the two chaps I had engaged with each asked the customary question. I had to declare my enjoyment, and took the opperchancity to glean some information. Shinwari has been open – one and a half months. After they consulted, I was assured that this Shinwari was separate from its predecessor.

Around the half way mark, judging by the array of bones on the adjacent plate, I had to re-evaluate my strategy. This – portion – was certainly the half kilo. The Bread was abandoned, I had managed but a third of the Naan.

A chap, dressed for the office, entered and dealt with the mail. Meet the new Boss?

Hello, sir! – the Hector had been hailed, but was there recognition? He disappeared before I could engage him further.

In time, I was staring at defeat. I had to eat all the Meat, and got there eventually. The low level of Seasoning maintained, the intensity of Flavour overall was as anticipated. The Oily residue on the base of the karahi plus some Masala Mash would normally have been wiped off, there lies pleasure in the extreme. This would require more Bread, today, not possible. The Hector appetite had been sated. Forty four minutes of eating, exhausted, why do I do this to myself? Salty lips, how had this come about?

The Bill

£16.00   No sneaky Salad, therefore no additions.

The Aftermath

It was a different young chap who dealt with the payment and therefore received the Calling Card. Hector Holmes was in full flow.

The Chef here is the same as at the original Shinwari Restaurant. The owner has many shops, Shawlands was mentioned, – Original Khyber – I assume, Namak Mandi was mentioned oft.  I have a photo of the Chef from my visit to Original Khyber, and I saw him here today. As for Namak Mandi, the chap I know as The Boss from there is not the guy whom I met today. Another case for Hector Holmes who notes that Namak Mandi did not move to their larger premises at the end of last year as announced. One thing for certain, the half kilo at Shinwari is appreciably more substantial than has been served at Namak Mandi.

Menu extracts

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Glasgow – Sheerin Palace – Everything Spicier than Everything Else

With Hector free from kitchen duties this Sunday afternoon, ah well, why not? Sheerin Palace (300 Allison St, Govanhill/Crosshill, Glasgow, G42 8HQ) hadn’t been visited for a while. Having highlighted the opening of their former Chef, Zahir’s – Shahi Mahal– earlier this year to the level of recommendation,  it was back to the roots.

At 13.35, some ladies were queuing for Takeaway, four chaps were sitting in the dining area, awaiting their Order. I stood at the entrance to the dining area waiting to be served. Around six trays of ready-Curry were lined up in the display counter. Aloo Gobi was already in mind, but the words Lamb on-the-bone proved to be seductive. The Chicken Rice would accompany, in effect, two main courses. As ever prices cannot be quoted, is there a board which I keep missing, a menu even?

Cutlery, napkins and Raita were brought in a flash. My fellow diners appeared to be having Kebap based food.

The reheat didn’t take long, eating the mass of food which arrived did. Bread was offered and gracefully declined. Maybe I should try and ask for a half portion of Rice?

Chicken Rice

The Chicken Rice, a Biryani in effect, came with a Salad garnish. Raita was duly applied, the remainder would be useful if I ended up with Dry Rice. There was a powerful aromatic sense of Spice emanating from the Rice. The two pieces of Chicken, also on-the-bone, would be little more than a distraction.

Aloo Gosht

The two comparatively huge lumps of Potato gave it away, this was way more than Lamb on-the-bone. I counted the Meat into double figures as I arranged the pieces over the Rice. I retained some of the Shorva for later, Coriander stems were visible here.

Starting with the Rice, there was a big Clove presence. Aromatic indeed, this was Spicy Rice. The Lamb was suitably soft, and having sat in the Spicy Shorva had absorbed its Flavour. This was Desi Cuisine, and why the Hector favours these modest venues over Mainstream Restaurants. Curry Cafes are also more affordable for the frequent diner.

Lamb on-the-bone, delightful, pieces were picked up and gnawed as required. I dipped some of the Lamb back in the Shorva as I ate, why do I always eat the Meat separately? This was quite a portion of Curry. When I sensed the Spice from the Potato also, I realised that this meal was a collective challenge: everything was Spicier than everything else.

Both serving chaps checked on my progress, Hector is recognised, but still banter has yet to evolve. Whilst I ate, I heard a Takeaway customer order ten Naan. Who needs ten Naan?

Both Green and Black Cardamom were unearthed, it was no longer possible to tell from where. A small piece of Cinnamon Bark then the sleeve of a cooked in Green Chilli were encountered. Whole Spice, classic Curry.

As expected, the Chicken was no more than incidental, filling if nothing else. With bones set aside, then the remaining Shorva poured over the Rice and last bits of Lamb, it was just a matter of choosing when to stop.

I had been eating for some thirty minutes. Time for a lie down.

The Bill

£11.00    Amazing value.

The Aftermath

Alright? – asked the chap who has been here longest.

Excellent, tasty.

And so I headed back along along Allison Street. On passing the venue which has changed names more than any other in this city, there seemed to be more elaborate stickers on the window. What in the past has been a happy hunting ground for Curry:

Lasani Grill, Al-Anwar, Basharat G’z, Spice Haven, Nan Factory, is now Shinwari.

The short lived Shinwari used to be nearby on Langside Road, Hector Holmes is on the case.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace (New-co #2) – We’re on our way to perfection

Imran Khan is in gaol, Donald Trump is not. Meanwhile in Glasgow, the city centre streets are blocked to traffic due to an ongoing international cycling event. With angry skies, Hector’s personal rain cloud looked as menacing as ever. Still no sign of summer, but the un-seasonal, cool temperatures suit the cyclists.

External forces dictate that Saturday afternoon Curry in Glasgow appears to be retreating towards lunchtime. Arriving at Karahi Palace (New-co #2) (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) the door was open but the shutters still down. Here we go again? Moiz, Mein Host, was in situ, assisted today by the young lady. There was no sign of a Chef.

Are we open? – I asked Moiz who was still wearing his outdoor jacket. Maybe he was just cold. Karahi Palace was in the process of being set up for the day.

Have you a Chef? – I had to ask, an equally important question.

I’m the Chef.

A month has passed since my last visit to New-co #2, then there was The Big Test, to produce Karahi Lamb (£12.00) worthy of a Hector. Then – Dry – was taken to the extreme, the Hector tweaks not yet applied. Today would be another landmark.

The Order was given: Karahi Lamb, a bit extra Salt, some Methi, plus a Tawa Chapatti (£1.00).

You don’t like it – Dry -, do you? – asked Moiz.

Dry Curry is what the Hector seeks, however, a scale of – Dryness – has yet to be established.

Not totally – Dry – not Soup.

The shutters were raised. Moiz got to work, standing in the spot where Ayaz and Chef Rashid have worked their wonders in years gone by. I sat in my usual seat, the lady brought a bottle of tap water and a Modest Salad. I nibbled on the Tomatoes. Decent Tomatoes, these had taste.

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It took Moiz twenty five minutes to produce the Karahi and Chapatti. The Wholemeal Chapatti was a welcomed sight, having seen some strange interpretations on my recent travels. A sensible size and with appropriate girth, this would do the job.

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Karahi Lamb

No Ginger Strips or sliced Chillies on top today, just a sprinkling of Coriander. The ratio of Masala to Meat was such that here was – Dry – as I am happy to define it. The peripheral Oil was minimal.

Wow! Moiz can cook!

The Seasoning was spot on, the Flavours from the Spices were a joy, a serious depth of Flavour had been achieved. Clearly this could not be identical to that served here over the years, but this was a new balance of Spice and Herbs, a glorious Lahori Karahi. Moiz may have assembled the Karahi, the preparation before contains the secrets.

In double figures today, the Meat was comparatively on the chewy side, this merely prolonged the pleasure, more Flavour hitting the palate. Two bones, one large – Sucky. Bone Marrow, such a key ingredient.

To provide variation, I arranged the Salad remnants on the side of the karahi, Diversity of Texture, I was loving this. If this standard can be maintained, then New-co #2 will soon earn its place in Glasgow’s Top Rated.

Another Chapatti was brought to the table, this would remain untouched. The Hector might manage 1.5 Chapattis, not today. Moiz admitted to managing 2.5.

Moiz was keen to hear the verdict.

Wonderful! – I assured him – if you get the Salt right, the rest comes.

He concurred. I had to ask how the Lamb had been cooked given that Karahi is an adjustment to pre-cooked Meat. Lamb boiled in Black Pepper – I believe was the reply. Moiz told me he has abandoned – Plum Tomatoes – in favour of fresh. By this I assume he meant – tinned. The technique of removing the skins was not known to him, a well known and reliable Curry Website would reveal all momentarily.

What is becoming the ritual presentation of Green Tea was hailed, and the news given that Moiz had Sparkling Water in his car. Then – The Big News. Chef Rashid is going to teach Moiz some of the secrets. That, I would pay to witness.

The Bill

£11.00 Special Price – declined. Let his father at Darbar Grill round downwards. Karahi Palace New-co #2 has to become established.

The Aftermath

Cooking techniques were further discussed. I showed my – Kitchen Sink Curry – cooked last night, and had to admit, I still cannot attain the Flavour I seek.

Chef Rashid, where are you?

And so to a bizarre bus route, is anything going through the city centre? It makes a change from another Hollywood blockbuster closing our streets. An elaborate system of flags and whistles enabled the public to cross the road.

Never mind summer, can we have our city back?

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Hector Cooks – A Kitchen Sink Curry

Tonight’s Beef Stroganoff was cancelled when Marg announced that she would be fed elsewhere. Having hardly cooked in recent weeks, the Hector felt the need to get back into the kitchen. There would be Curry-Heute!

A third recipe for a Desi Korma has been secured, it features – Mace – a Spice hitherto unknown in terms of usage, and its cousin – Nutmeg. However, the recipe produces a grand meal and tonight Hector was cooking for one.

A modest slice of Frying Steak was meant to complement a larger slice of Rump, however the latter stayed in the freezer. Leftover Roast Potato, and Hector’s favourite – Ballast – Mushrooms, should provide enough bulk. The basic Curry Recipe was as ever the basis for the Masala, thereafter, it was a case of anything/everything goes. The intended outcome was – Curry a la Hector: a Thick, Herb-rich Masala, and if that means an excess of Oil, so be it.

Whole Spice, always satisfying to unearth whilst eating a Curry. Into the hot Oil and slowly mashing Onions went a huge piece of Cinnamon Bark, diced Ginger, Cloves, both colours of Cardamom, Bay Leaves, Dry Red Chillies, Cumin Seeds, and Onion Seeds. I forgot – Star Anise and decided against Methi Seeds and Peppercorns. Teaspoons of the powdered Spices: Turmeric, Kashmiri Chilli, Garam Masala, and decidedly more Salt followed.

I have a bag of frozen whole Tomatoes which may feature in a future – skins-off Masala. Today, back to tinned Tomatoes and Puree plus the rinse of a near empty jar of Ginger and Garlic Paste.

Time for the Mace. Grated Mace, is this the missing link, the secret to creating that Special Flavour that restaurateurs can attain and the Hector cannot? How does one grate Mace? Next time I’ll grind it.

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Boiling Steak, why not? In a Stroganoff that is in effect what happens. Twenty minutes should suffice before adding the other Solids.

A dollop of Yoghurt, Fresh Coriander and a restrained dessert spoon of Dry Methi went in towards the end of cooking, everything but the kitchen sink. Actually I have many more unlabelled jars, I even know what’s in some of them. Maybe it’s that time to once again throw everything out and start afresh?

Time to serve, there was enough for two portions.

The Oil quickly separated in the karahi, not so attractive if having Bread, today was Rice. The Rice absorbed the Oil, end of.

Marg bought me a new Rice cooker, the results – stodgy Rice. I’ll need to give this more thought, its predecessor never did this.

 

With the Meat cut small into double figures, there was enough in theory, but the remaining portion should surely have half, so maybe not. The Steak had cooked perfectly, the thirty minutes plus in the Masala had done enough. I like Mushrooms in Curry, so leaving them in lumps always pleases. The Potatoes were simply Ballast, not enough time to absorb. A late night Portion #2 over the coming weekend may be a different story.

The Masala was classic – a la Hector. The Seasoning, tested before serving, was spot on. Consequently, everything else had a chance. How long since I’ve had a full dose of Methi? The Whole Spice set aside as encountered, satisfying. The Spice Level was far from being OTT, in terms of heat, but certainly intense otherwise.

Mace? I do not know what Mace tastes of, but what was apparent, despite being fundamentally a Hector Curry, something had been tempered. Is that what Mace does?

Apart from the Whole Spice, the plate was cleared. Another lesson learned this evening: the clearing of the plate was only managed because I sat at the dining table. When eating from a tray, the appetite quickly wanes.

Having originally been in the mood for Stroganoff, this wasn’t too shabby a Curry.

Methi, man!

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