Berlin – GapShap Indian Restaurant – There is Curry in West Berlin

The final day in Berlin, returning to Punjabi Zaiqa for another – fix – was always tempting.  For the serious, this has to be the #1 Berlin Curry venue.  Maintaining the spirit of Curry-Heute, it was time to go exploring again. In the words of a Curryspondent – it’s good that you check out these places so that we don’t have to.

GapShap Indian Restaurant (Güntzelstraße 19, 10717 Berlin Deutschland) was suggested by Bruna who was somewhat miffed that Marg and I went to her local – Chutnify – on Wednesday, without her. She hasn’t been to GapShap, but it had been recommended to her. Located in West Berlin, Charlottenburg & Wilmersdorf to be precise, this is not the side of the city where Hector has found favourable outlets. To date, Punjabi Zaiqa and Chutnify are in a different Berlin League, otherwise, competence may have been over-celebrated elsewhere. Another source suggests that GapShap is an offshoot of the shockingly awful, but seemingly popular – Bahadur – where I had to declare:

If you think that’s Indian food, then you haven’t been to India.

There was a classic case of – Indian Restaurants – serving up what they think the locals can manage. I met a chap at Protokoll earlier in the week who assured me that any – Indian Restaurant – in Berlin that is also a – Cocktail Bar – should be given a wide berth. GapShap identifies as an – Indian Restaurant and Bar.

GapShap – gossip, tittle-tattle, but in the spirit of India, I shall offer – chit-chat – as a suitable translation. Across Europe, and sadly including Blighty, restaurateurs evidently believe that – Street Food – is a selling point, a magnet to those who want to snack, with a cocktail?

My research, prior to our 17.45 arrival, revealed a photo of a seriously Dry Curry and Lamb Chettinad listed on the menu. That was enough to entice. A solitary diner sat near the entrance, two smokers outside. All tables were reserved in the otherwise empty restaurant. We were given a choice of tables. I declined the window table with the open window and the smokers directly outside.

Drinks had to be sorted, a 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water (€6.40) kicked things off. The Curry section of the menu was a realistic length, not pages of endless tweaks of the same Masala one finds across the city. Lamb Chettinad (€18.90) was the initial attraction but was instantly dismissed when Lamb Sukka (€19.90) was spotted. Marg took the Chettinad option, a Curry she knows well. Indian Mango (München) set the standard for this Curry many years ago. For them, Chettinad is not a Soupy Curry, for the rest of Europe, UK included, it appears to be thus.

The Chettinad comes with Rice, the Sukka is served on a Paratha. It is possible that this is Chef’s insurance against peeps trying to have Rice with what is traditionally a Dry Curry in the extreme, but not as served a few weeks back at Spoonful of India (Brussel).

It was Shubham, Mein Host, who took the food Order. Spice level was discussed. He rated the Chettinad as three on a scale of one to five. This suited Marg. Note, in Polska, the scale often goes up to ten, and Polish Curry is sometimes served at eleven.

I can handle more, I am British! – was the Hector method of avoiding any scale that may be associated with Bahadur.

Whilst we waited, and it was a respectable time, we were given a bowl of nibbles. Cubes of Toast, seemingly ordinary, but a delightful new experience. Far from saturated, but certainly – Buttery – subtle Spice and Herbs were in there too, tasty. Knowing that I had Bread coming, restraint was shown. Marg was not for holding back. She offered me the last piece, declined.

Other diners arrived. Each new table occupied had to ask for assistance with the menu. I was amused listening to the English waitress explaining the various Dishes, and Breads in particular, to a German lady who insisted on speaking the Lingua Franca,  then translating it back to Deutsch for her companion. Five days in Berlin, I have not spoken Deutsch once. Apparently, the locals still do.

For once, the portion of Basamti was sensible. There would still be some left over such was the nature of what we had ordered.

Lamb Sukka

From the moment it was set on the table, I knew we had authentic Curry. This was seriously – Dry. With a huge pile of Meat in a Minimal Masala, sat atop the Paratha, there was an issue.

How do I eat this?

One cannot scoop up the Meat with the Bread if it’s below the Curry.

With a knife and fork – suggested Marg.

Aye right.

Marg has a preference for Bread, she had Rice, I had a buried Paratha. I tore off the exposed strip of Paratha and passed it across the table, now what?

I had been given a dinner plate, decanting was the solution. A significant proportion of the Minimal Masala had by then, soaked into the Paratha. This left a soggy Paratha and a naked Curry. I took some of Marg’s excess Rice, not what Chef had intended. I stopped counting the Meat beyond double figures, each piece was large. There was also an abundance of Big Onions, usually Marg falls into that trap. This was a lot of eating.

The Paratha may well have been – flaky – as declared, Marg may well verify. I like to – get down and dirty – so tucked in, left hand trying its best to pick up Meat with the limp Paratha, otherwise, spoon in right hand for Curry & Rice.

The Meat was well infused by the Spice. The Spice Level was more than – Medium – not demanding. The Seasoning was decidedly lacking. Still, a good earthy blast of Flavour hit the palate. No smokiness, yet there was a threatening cherry-shaped Red Chilli staring at me. I took a bite, nothing happened, better not to swallow. An even larger Red Chilli crossed the table, this we both avoided. The Big Onions proved to be a distraction from the Meat alone.

With the Thick Masala shrouding the Lamb, there was still enough to declare this Curry to be a fine example of  – Sukka. Curry this Dry in Berlin, until today, unheard of. Having eaten loads, I still had five big pieces of Lamb and some Rice to deal with. Time to abandon the remaining Paratha which, by this time, was an unappealing blob.

Marg had allocated me a spoonful of her Masala, I thought this might revitalise what sat before me. Oh, it most certainly did.

Lamb Chettinad

Topped with Ginger Strips and slices of Coconut, the Masala was significantly different from the – Mainstream. There was no Shorva here, this was a decent, Thick Masala. Again, the Meat count reached – plenty.

Marg’s verdict:

It was earthy and full of smokey flavour. The ginger strips and dried coconut made an appealing contrast to the masala. Did not require too much Rice and my small piece of (flaky?) Paratha allowed me to mop up my dish.

As Marg was arranging the Meat and Masala on her Rice, I tried a Soupçon of the Masala. Stunning, a definite – Wow! This Masala was true to Chettinad in terms of Flavour, moderately Spiced, well Seasoned, and the big South Indian Curry blast. The latter marked the contrast to the Sukka.

At the end of the meal, when the spoonful of Masala reached my plate, there was the opperchancity to celebrate further. Firstly, I bit into some Ginger which aroused the palate, then a whole Clove, another – Wow?

This was a Chettinad of pedigree. This was a non-Soupy Chettinad. This was a Chettinad being served in Berlin.

The trek across the city had proved to be a wise decision.

GapShap had earned respect in the city where Curry, apart from the aforementioned, sets low targets.

How was the Chilli? – asked the chap who cleared the table.

I decided you could have it.

Safe.

The Bill

€45.20 (£38.20)

The Aftermath

By the time of payment,  I had established that Mein Host was called Shubbam.

Introductions over, it was time to talk – Curry – and the Curry Houses of Berlin. The brackets, showing the number of visits, is as close as Curry-Heute gets to scoring or ranking. I did point towards the bottom of the Berlin Curry House list, where Bahadur sits, and shall remain.

The lack of Seasoning in the Sukka had to be raised, the outstanding Chettinad was complimented. Shubbam told me of special evenings where the food is served on Banana Leaves.  Bananas, has Hector’s life not done enough here? The chances of ever experiencing one of these events is remote. Weekends excepted, where noon opening differs, 17.00 does not fit with the pattern of a Hector day in Berlin. Berlin life is in the East. I must try to get back here. Next time, the Lamb Chettinad for Hector. Thereafter, it may be worth exploring the Kashmiri Rogan Josh (€18.90), and if the dreaded Capsicum can be withheld, the Kadhai Gosht (€19.90).

A photo was required, let’s all get in.

GapShap, there is Curry in West Berlin.

2023 Menu

 

 

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Berlin – Chutnify – Visit #4, Review #5

Between April and November last year, Hector visited Chutnify (Sredzkistraße 43, 10435 Berlin Deutschland) on three occasions, the South Indian Cuisine with its Smokey/Peppery Flavours being the magnet. No other Berlin Curry House known to Hector was serving Curry with this intensity of distinctive Flavours. Having learned of their other outlets in Portugal, Hector and Marg made a beeline to Chutnify Canteen (Porto) earlier this year. What a disaster! With no Fish or Lamb available, the Hector was forced to have a – Chicken Curry. I’ll let the reader discover my verdict on that experience.

Today, all forgiven and back on familiar ground, we wondered around Prenzlauer Berg before deciding it was Curry-Zeit @13.15. A familiar face greeted us, a table inside was requested. The other diners had chosen to sit outside, today it was warm enough to do so. This was the first time I had seen the interior of the restaurant so empty. Booking is recommended if coming of an evening.

We were brought a lunchtime menu plus the main menu. Prices have not increased since last November. For Hector it had to be Telangana Lamb available at either €14.00 or €19.00 depending on the menu, Basmati Rice included. For a change, Marg was having Lamb Thali (€15.50). To complete the Order: a 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water (€6.00) and Malabar Parotta (€3.00). This king of Breads is served as a pair, try getting one for this price in the UK.

I pointed to the main menu when ordering the Telangana Lamb. I also asked for the food to be served – hot.

I’ll tell them – was the acknowledgement.

On previous visits, the food was simply not served hot enough. The message relayed, was taken seriously. Hector’s Curry bowl was too hot to touch on its arrival, Marg did not find the components of her Thali to be so.

As prevails across Europe, the quantity of Rice presented was more than a Hector could manage. One does one’s best.

The Malabar Parotta were scrunched in a small bowl, I managed to find the space to open one out fully. Multi-layered, buttery, soft, stringy, yet crispy in parts, this Paratha variant is such a joy. Rice and Bread, indulgence, but the opperchancity to have a Malabar Parotta is not to be missed. Marg would assist.

Telangana Lamb

Previous encounters have featured dry Red Chillies floating in the Shorva, not today. I counted nine pieces of Meat as I decanted, most of these would be halved, so quite a plateful. One piece of Potato was present also, usually more.

I think an alarm bell was ringing already.

Calm. The Spice was pitched at a worthy level, not demanding, but significantly better than what is served across Mainstream Berlin Curry Houses. The Seasoning was a la Hector, all was set for the Flavours to emerge from the Shorva. Dipping pieces of Parotta into the retained Masala was one half of the eating experience. Then there was the Curry & Rice.

The Meat at Chutnify has always impressed, superbly Tender. Sampling a piece of the Potato almost brought a – Wow! – moment. The Potato had fully absorbed the Flavours from the Shorva, I wanted more! Why only the one piece?

Returning to the Meat it was apparent that it was not giving back the same intensity of Flavour, but how could it? Potato in a Curry, such a simple, but effective addition.

The Peppery Flavour was clearly present, the anticipated Smokiness not. Was this down to the missing Red Chillies?

There was still enough – good – happening here. I have been to enough Berlin Curry Houses to know how poor the opposition is. Days after my last visit here I did discover the then recently opened Punjabi Zaiqa. A totally different brand of Curry altogether, but what Berlin badly needed. Chutnify should satisfy the needs of most serious Curry eaters. For those who appreciate why Lamb on-the-bone offers so much more, Punjabi Zaiqa is the place to be.

Lamb Thali

It is evident that Thali is the choice of the majority at Chutnify.

Half a Poppadom sat atop a mass of Basmati, with the spoonful of Chutney adjacent. One was not going to leave Chutnify feeling hungry. The same Telangana Lamb with four – and a bit – pieces of Meat was the focal point. Thereafter, Soupçons of Vegetable Korma and a Daal occupied two of the three remaining slots on the school dinner tray. Cauliflower, Broccoli and Carrots sat in the Coconut Sauce. The Daal proved to be the superior – Daal Makhani. This makes a fine accompaniment to any Curry.

Dessert – was a listed component, a single Gulab Jamun sat in the corner. I wonder how many people have started with this?

Diversity is something I enjoy, yet I still find Thali to be – too bitty. Bring me a half kilo of Lamb on-the-bone, something to get stuck into. And maybe some Daal Makhani on the side.

Marg cleared her tray and had much to say thereafter:

A lovely selection of tastes brought together on a metal tray. The Lamb was very tender and the sauce thin and spicy. The Daal complemented the wonderful, crispy Parotta exceptionally well. The abundance of Rice soaked up the extra Vegetable sauce and amused me. It was fun.

Finishing on a sweet note was an excellent conclusion to my meal. Sweet syrup and a tasty sponge was the Dessert.

Meanwhile, across the table, the Hector was defeated by the quantity of Rice.

The Bill

€38.50 (£33.19) The Telangana Lamb was charged at €14.00, the lunchtime menu price. Does this explain the missing Red Chillies and minimal Potato?

The Aftermath

Farewells were brief. The customers outside always have the staff busy running in and out.

Much later, there was a football match in Nederland, ah well, so it goes.

Posted in Chutnify | Comments Off on Berlin – Chutnify – Visit #4, Review #5

Berlin – Punjabi Zaiqa – Visit #5 – Korma Trumps Karahi?

It was only on landing at Berlin Brandenburg that Marg and Hector became aware of the Air Traffic Control hiatus back home. Sometimes you win. Having checked in to our favourite Ibis, it was up to Osloer Strasse on the U8. Curry before Bier.

Punjabi Zaiqa (Tromsöer Strasse 6, 13359 Berlin Deutschland) is the only known source of – proper Curry – in Berlin. Originale Pakistanische Künche – is their tagline, is it any wonder that the Hector makes a beeline to this outstanding venue?

Arriving at 17.10, Marg spotted Fisch Curry (€7.90) on the board outside. Hector was back for the Lamm Korma (€12.90) first enjoyed here last November, and after April’s visit, it appears to be Hector’s #1 choice. Korma trumps Karahi?

Hello, how are you? – was the greeting from Adnan, the ever-present Tandoori Chef behind the counter. It is good to be recognised. A litre bottle of Sparkling Water was taken from the fridge and the Order placed. Hector prefers Rice with a Desi Korma, Marg was intent on having Bread. One Rice and one Naan (€2.90) was added. I assumed that the mass of pre-cooked Lamb on-the-bone which was on display would form the basis of my Curry.

The Rice is included – I was reminded. On offering to pay, I was invited to do so afterwards.

Two things to highlight at this point: the price of Fish being significantly lower than Lamb, and still the Rice is inclusive. One has to wonder how this can be achieved in mainland Europe.

Marg wanted to sit further in, I insisted we have a peripheral table from where all could be observed. Marg concurred that the décor, ambience here, was a cut above many a Curry Cafe. A few people were finishing their meals, in time, a young couple with an unruly wean did take the far corner table. Tantrum after tantrum, a mouthful of Vindaloo would have sorted her.

After a respectable twenty five minute wait a chap started to assemble the bits.

They like to bring everything out on trays – I had advised Marg. A Salad amused Marg for the final minutes before the mass of food was presented.

They like their Salads in Germany – remarked Marg.

I was interested in establishing if this was a German Salad with the customary Vinegar dressing, apparently not. Raita reigns supreme.

The Rice, featuring green Cardamom, was enough for three/four, classic Euro wastage. Trying to make a dent in the mountain, I took a larger plateful than my norm. Marg had around half a plateful, helping out.

The round Naan was served whole. Perforated and with Seeds, it was suitably light and fluffy.

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Lamm Korma

What a magnificent sight. Could you get more Curry in the karahi? I stopped counting as I passed double figures whilst decanting the Meat to the plate of Rice. There were Boneless pieces of Lamb then dem large bones, from who knows where? Sucky Bones also featured. This would be a lot of eating. The Thick Masala oozed quality. Once again, the Herb content was obvious, the cooked in Green Chillies, less so.

The intensity of Flavour was hard to believe. The Seasoning matched the Hector idyll, the Spice Level would build. Every moment of this Desi Korma was going to be special, yet I would say it was markedly different from that enjoyed here previously. The first time I had the Lamm Korma at Punjabi Zaiqa it was comparable in taste to that served at Karahi Palace (Glasgow). Things have changed at the latter since then, and the Desi Korma I enjoyed there two days ago was approaching this. Today, no sense of Citrus, the Yoghurt flecks were not apparent. This Lamm Korma was a completely new taste experience.

Such was the size of some pieces of Meat, I had to use a knife to separate them from the Bones. Most fell apart. Tender Lamb, full of Flavour, – Muttony – was noted. By the time I added the reserved Masala, it was time to draw a line on the plate. Even more Rice would be abandoned.

Until then, it was a case of savour the moment. Lamm Korma, how can this be so good? Early last year I had almost reached the stage of – why bother having Curry in Berlin. Now it’s a matter of how often can I get to Punjabi Zaiqa?

Fisch Curry

The karahi was laden with Fish in a Thick Masala. I doubt if I have ever seen so much Fish in a Curry. Again, check the price. Always on the lookout for a decent Fish Curry, the Hector was keen to establish the quality.

Is it good – I asked, somewhat rhetorically.

Mmmm, lovely.

A Soupçon would cross the table, compared to my Curry far too sweet. To what extent this was down to the sharp contrast remains unknown. However, that this was not the same Masala as the Korma was established. I suspect Marg would be happy to have this again:

A thick, rich sauce, with a sweetness that suited the Fish which was crispy in parts, and full of flavour. An abundance of Fish with Rice, mopped up with the Naan. A very enjoyable meal.

Marg wasn’t finished. There was an Ice Cream menu. The menu photos of Ice Cream brimming over the pot did not match the tiny pot of solid Mango Kulfi which was presented.

The Bill

€32.40 (£27.86)     We had been fed.

The Aftermath

Adnan was busy as we took our leave, I’ll see him again.

Next door lies a Punjabi Grocer/Butcher. The opperchancity to purchase packets of Korma Spices was taken. How does Desi Korma differ from Karahi?

Posted in Punjabi Zaiqa | 1 Comment

Glasgow – Karahi Palace (New-co #2) – Visit #5 – My Favourite Curry?

Moiz has now been in charge at Karahi Palace (New-co #2) (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) for three months. The Karahi Lamb (£12.00) has been restored to something resembling the wonder that has been served on these premises for many years. Visit #5 in Curry-Heute is customarily when venues gain entry to – Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses – and locally to – Glasgow’s Top Rated. Today’s visit proved to be something special, the revised status more than justified.

I had already informed Moiz that I would be coming at 14.00 today. Having kept count, he was aware of the significance of this visit. Last night Moiz contacted me to advise that having prepared Lamb Desi Korma for a catering contract, he could keep me a portion. This was an opperchancity not to be missed, even though I have one planned elsewhere for Monday.

Since establishing the extreme pleasure that was the Lamb Spicy Korma (£10.00) as served at the original Karahi Palace, I have usually had Mushroom Rice (£5.00) as the accompaniment. Moiz convinced me I should have Bread. A Chilli and Coriander Naan was agreed.

I took my usual spot, the table was being wiped clean as I entered. Behold the new black covering which is due to be rolled out across the ground floor tables.

Sparkling Water? Finally, at last, Hector’s preferred tipple is being stocked. Shkoor (Yadgar) are you reading this?

All was set.

I watched the final minutes of the football in Dingwall, a comparatively easy victory. I didn’t know then that the day was about to get even better.

The round Naan was served whole! In addition to the Coriander, both red and green sliced Chillies were embedded. These appear to have restricted the rising in the centre of the Naan, the periphery was suitably light and fluffy. A sensible size, I would manage all but a scrap, most unusual.

Lamb Desi Korma

The metal pot was a first. Bullet Chillies had been cut lengthways, no shortage of Chillies then. The thin, blended Masala contained the telltale white flecks, Yoghurt, not Cream. And no Coconut, Desi Korma bears little resemblance to that served in the Mainstream Curry Houses. I counted eight pieces of Meat featuring one Sucky Bone and two pieces of sinew. Had I stuck to my guns and ordered Rice, the Masala would have disappeared. Today, the Naan proved to be the ideal accompaniment.  More Masala required?

Hot food, always appreciated. The first intake revealed a big blast of Spice. The Seasoning was spot on. The distinctive Desi Korma Flavour was present, almost Citrus. Perhaps serving this Curry with sliced Lemon would accentuate the Flavour further? Pepperiness was coming across, a touch of Namkeen also? This Curry was already impressing, then there was the Lamb, wtf?

I write too often about Meat not giving back enough Flavour. This Lamb had clearly sat overnight in the Masala. The Spice given back was a veritable explosion on the palate. This super-soft Lamb was Super Spicy! On a scale of one to ten, this was – eleven! With Chillies everywhere, I had considered avoiding the Bullets, these were tame once I had started on the Meat.

Tears in the eyes, runny nose, there are no photos, just as well. This Curry was – the full works. Magnificent, all a Desi Korma can be. It was finished all too soon, the Hector wanted more! This was always the case when this was my favourite Curry as served along the street at The Village. They don’t do it as well as they used to.

Anything else? – asked Moiz.

Next time, keep me a half-kilo!

Moiz announced that he could cook a Desi Korma at any time, though admitted that it is better done in batches. Maybe I’ll find someone to share the kilo? (Curryspondent Derek?)

At the end, with a mouth on fire, the Sparkling Water was thoroughly appreciated. Bubbles too. Green Tea was then offered, and graciously accepted. Tea does highlight the Spice before tempering the palate.

Moiz bade farewell, he was off for supplies. I was told his colleague would handle the payment.

The Bill

Unknown. I was advised that I could pay next time. I shall insist.

The Aftermath

The rain had stopped, momentarily.

On Monday, Lamb Desi Korma, with Rice! And Marg will be there to witness the moment.

 

Posted in [Handi By Darbar] | 1 Comment

Glasgow – Namaste by Delhi Darbar – Bouncing Back To The Mainstream

Having only become aware of the existence of Namaste by Delhi Darbar (St Enoch Centre 1st Floor, 55 St Enoch Square, Glasgow G1 4BW) in recent weeks, it meant there were now three venues in Glasgow on the – to do – list. Reviews elsewhere are positive, but not all specifically about the Curry.

I doubt if I have set foot in the St Enoch Centre since Debenhams closed. Apparently, facade aside, the whole kaboodle is due for demolition. Walking through the various levels today, people are already pulling out of what is now a sorry sight in terms of retail.

It was established that Namaste is close to the cinema, the Hector took escalators all the way to the top assuming movies had replaced ice-skating. The mini-Vegas took me by surprise. The cinema is at the opposite end, where BHS used to be.

Two diners were visible in Namaste as I entered the restaurant at 13.57. Regular readers will appreciate that such a precise time is building up to, well, wait and see. The waitress placed me near the fellow diners, such that I could hear their conversation, no need for this in such large, empty premises. Window dressing, but without windows.

I had previously  studied the menu on-line and was therefore aware that there was only one Lamb Curry on the menu which was worthy of the Hector. For the record, and the nth time, Capsicum does not belong in authentic Karahi and Hector does not recognise Chicken Curry. This is Curry-Heute and that is how it is.

Lamb Bhoona (£10.00) and Basmati Pilau Rice (£4.00) was the Order, plus tap water. There was little point ordering Bread and leaving half of it, as tends to be the case. Four quid for Rice, that could be a hefty portion.

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Taking in the surroundings, it was evident that many Shekels had been invested in the décor. I would have appreciated seeing the premises from the inside, looking out. What happens to all this in the coming future?

The India Club at Hotel Strand Continental (Westminster) – will close on September 17. This is sad news, developers having their way there too. The long established India Club, formerly the staff canteen for the Indian Embassy, is one of only a handful of Curry Houses in Britain where the simple, straightforward – Curry – is that exceptional, one could pick it out in a line-up. One more visit is scheduled, if we can get in.

At Namaste, there was always the hope that Chef had something special waiting, something distinctive, this is always the hope when visiting any new Curry venue. I didn’t have long to wait, eight minutes after taking my seat, the food arrived. Call in the chaps from Guinness.

The Curry was in a soup plate, the Rice on a platter, no third plate. Why do restaurants do this? Adding Rice to a plate of Curry feels absurd.

The portion was standard, every grain would be managed.

This £4.00 portion was not for sharing.

Lamb Bhoona

The reasonably Thick Masala contained Syboes and featured seven pieces of Meat, not the magical eight. Rice was definitely the correct accompaniment, whilst not as – soupy – as my recent Bhuna in Köln, I had nothing to compare it with here. If this was – Bhuna – then what is their Curry like?

Finely chopped Onions and traces of Herb had been added to the blended Masala. Having counted the Meat, twice, it was decided that six pieces were worthy of halving, else all could have been devoured in a time comparable to its serving.

The Sweetness of the Masala hit first. The Seasoning was moderate to low. Having billed the Spice as being – medium strength – this quite impressed, a modest – kick.

The Lamb was super-soft, minimal chewing required. Decent Meat, but it was not giving anything back in terms of Spice or acquired Flavour. Tomato became evident in terms of Flavour, no skins/seeds were visible, no Whole Spices. There was a Seed in the Rice which I could not identify.

I have had this Curry, in effect, a hundred times. This was what passes for – Curry – across the European continent. Mainstream Curry for the masses, nothing offensive, safe, easy to eat. I know people who would happily devour this.

How I am going to miss the Curry at The India Club.

The Bill

£14.50   Look back to last Monday.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was given to the waitress, my Curry preferences and travels were duly described. This was just Curry – felt like an appropriate summary.

If the Calling Card was passed up the chain of management, nobody came to talk.

Next Monday’s Curry will be something – very special.

Posted in Namaste by Delhi Darbar | 1 Comment

Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – Sometimes A Great Notion

When Dr. Stan sat beside the Hector on Thursday at Kabana (Manchester) with his Rice & Three, the sight of the Spinach on his plate was enough to plant the notion. Back home, briefly, well it is the time of the year for – trip overload, the choice of venue and Curry was already decided: Kofta Palak (£11.95) at The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA).

A decade or so back, Dr. Stan and Hector used to wind up Hassan/Lahcen at Cafe Salma by sharing a portion of Kofta Palak as – Dessert. Dr. Stan was briefly tempted to join me at 14.00, had he done so, he would avoided a soaking a couple of hours later. Hector’s seemingly personal rain cloud was taking it out on someone else today. I keep asking – where is summer?

Eight diners were in situ as I was invited to take a small table in the middle of the room. More would take their place, a steady trickle. Saturday afternoon Curry.

The Order was taken promptly, a Tawa Chapatti (£1.25) would accompany, a jug of tap water would be sufficient liquid. Above Medium – was noted for the level of Spice. Everything was recorded on paper. Pads no more?

My last visit here was for Dr. Stan’s Birthday Curry at the end of May. Slowly the number of reviews at The Village heads towards #100. However, prior to Curry-Heute, Hector would eat here three times a week if circumstances permitted. The halcyon days.

For Hector, the – Lamb – section of the menu is a focal point: Methi Gosht and Achari Gosht have been had oft. Kofta Kirahi has yet to be tried. Apart from – Pineapple – I wonder what the difference is between Daal Gosht and Dhansak Gosht.

The Tawa Chapatti was a good size, in other words, more Bread than a Hector can manage. Fluffy, and with a hint of layering, this was a delightfully soft Chapatti. The soft texture maintained, and the Wholemeal Flavour did not overwhelm.

The presentation of the Raita puzzled.  This played no part in my meal.

Kofta Palak

With but a threat of Coriander atop, five medium-sized Meatballs sat in the Thickest of Herb-rich Masala mashes. The Oil which would become visible at the base of the karahi was enough to confirm that there had been a Masala at some point.

I have no understanding as to why the desire for Spinach becomes so strong once the notion is triggered. Scooping the Masala Mash on to pieces of Chapatti marked the beginning of a series of intense moments of Flavour. The Masala Mash was well Seasoned, Earthy in Flavour with a slight bitter taste.

The quantity of Mince did not seem to suggest a favourable ratio to the Masala Mash, even after each Meatball was cut into four. The Kofta had distinctly less Seasoning, but it was from these Meatballs that the Spice Level built steadily. Mouthfuls of Chapatti/Masala Mash alternated with Kofta/Masala Mash. Thus the maximum pleasure was extracted, until…biting into a Cumin Seed released an explosion of Flavour on the palate.

With the notion for Spinach sated, it was time to consult the trusty – Oppo – and see if the chaps along the road at Ibrox could come back after losing a penalty.

All was well.

The Bill

£13.20   Bigger price, smaller portion, than this week’s indulgences in Manchester.

The Aftermath

With no familiar staff to chat to, it was back out to face the elements and what is passing for summer in Glasgow in 2023. At least the buses were running properly after the much lauded international cycling event.

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Manchester – Kabana – All Good Things

The final day of this trip: this means the Hector does not have to have Curry tomorrow, though thoughts of Kofta Palak on Saturday are already looming! In keeping with the name of this Blog, another Manchester Curry had to be squeezed in. 13.20 at Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England) was a good time to arrive, the lunchtime rush being over.

Rizwan was keen to tell me that Craig and Yvonne had been in earlier, their third visit in four days. The less said about their choice of Chicken and Capsicum, the better. Kabana has something for everyone, Vegans too, I had to verify this a bit since on behalf of a friend.

Rizwan was able to tell them that I had been up at the other Kabana (Cheetham Hill) yesterday, having Quail. He also informed me that two chaps from Edinburgh had been in, followers of Curry-Heute – home and abroad!

Followers, but not Curryspondents, unless I have missed something. Do get in touch!

Today’s Curry, a repeat of a successful creation had here in January. I can just about get away with calling it – Fish Karahi. I am able to quote the elements and their prices based on the posted menu. The cost of the crowning ingredient would be established at the time of paying. Fried Fish (£5.50), Rice (£2.00), Salad (£0.50), and a bowl of the Masala from the Karahi Lamb (£?.??).

Marg, who had not had Curry since Monday, was happy to order her favourite once again: Keema Peas (£6.50) and a Chapatti (£1.00).

We took a table in the back corner, a bit of a squeeze, but such is the seating at Kabana. Marg was facing the counter, Hector had the wall.

Rizwan brought a plateful of the – foliage. The Coriander was back. Was that all I was getting? Emoticon understood.

Keema Peas

This portion had Oil collecting on the edge of the bowl whereas Monday’s had not. One of The Company had remarked on the quantity of Peas. If one is not adding Potato, then let’s have a decent quantity of Peas. After the ritual photo, Marg added a modest sprinkling of Coriander and some Ginger, not Green Chillies.

I liked the little bit of Coriander and Ginger I added.

The Chapatti shows clear signs of having risen, this was beautiful Bread.

A Creation – Fish Karahi

The Fish was presented on top of the Rice, and adjacent to the Salad and Raita. Spiced Onions had been squeezed on to the plate also.

A standard-huge Kabana portion.

As I decanted some of the Masala so I was amused to find Sucky Bones! Rizwan had given me the Masala from the better of the two Karahi pots.

There was still the – foliage – to add.

It was good to have Spiced Onions without the oft used red food colouring. Crunchy, Spicy, this would give additional Texture to the Creation, as would the Salad components.

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The Fish produced an instant – Wow! It was difficult to determine if the coating was a fine Batter or Breadcrumbs. Rizwan would later confirm – Batter – and a secret recipe. Coley (Saithe/Pollock) from the Cod family gives off a potent sense of – Fishiness, just what the Hector seeks. White and firm, nothing – rubbery – here. Without the Masala, this would not have been – Curry. Using the Masala sparingly to cover the Fish and maintain the moistness of the Rice, the Creation was living up to expectation.

Rizwan came over to chat, he talks to all his customers. Yesterday’s Quail was discussed. Sweet with a kick – was how Rizwan described the accompanying Masala. Exactly as Hector has written.

Why have I only seen Paul and not his brother – Mani – in recent visits?

Mani doesn’t work on Wednesdays.

No Quail for Mani.

Rice & Three

From her advantageous viewpoint, Marg saw the arrival of Dr. Stan, his second Curry in three days. Dr. Stan moves in mysterious ways as was established recently in Brussel. The Good Doctor had Rice & Three (£9.50): Spinach + Potatoes, Keema Peas, and Karahi Lamb. By restricting my space further, we managed to squeeze him onto the table beside me. Opposite would have been impossible.

The Hector was still eating, the tail of the Coley and the remaining Masala. It was decided that the Rice which was still white would be abandoned.

Satisfaction achieved.

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Mags came in. Karahi Lamb on-the-bone and a Chapatti for Mags. This was reviewed once more earlier this week.

With no chance of sitting at ours, she secured the back middle table which in theory can accommodate six. The seating and tables move, flexibility is the name of the game. Everyone is accommodated.

Six of The Company had eaten at Kabana today, and four others earlier in the week.

The Bill

£17.00   I deduce the bowl of Masala was £1.50, £2.00 at most if the Salad and Onions are part of the Fried Fish order.

The Aftermath

Rizwan was chuffed with himself for adding the Sucky Bones. He even used this vernacular. It had to be.

Once again, Rizwan offered to cook me a Fish Karahi given notice. If there’s a Manchester Beer Festival next year and we once again return mob handed, the challenge will be set.

Stepping outside, I had to record the graffiti opposite, this sums up the last six weeks:

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Manchester – Kabana (Cheetham Hill) – Bateera – It’s Wednesday!

It’s Wednesday in Manchester, the opperchancity to have Bateera (Quail) at Kabana (Cheetham Hill) (133 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester, England M8 8LY). Strangely, none of the rest of The Company were attracted by the thought of – fiddly Quail, some went to Kabana original instead.

Before committing to the twenty minute walk from Ancoats, the Hector thought it best to confirm that Bateera was on today having been disappointed once previously. Rizwan confirmed it was so last night, a phone-call to Cheetham Hill at noon arranged a portion to be retained. Belt and braces.

As we passed Lahori Badsha where we had an excellent Lahori Karahi yesterday, a new addition to this Northern Curry Mile was spotted Lahori Butt Karahi. That’s a venue for a future trip.  I can now confirm that Dera, the place with the tractor outside further up the road, has gone.  Our last visit was in October 2019.  Since the passing of Covid I have been unable to make contact.  Today, I established the rebranding – Royal Manchester Restaurant – it’s all happening on Cheetham Hill Road.

Arriving at Kabana CH at 13.50, Paul was busy arranging a massive Takeaway, his assistant recalled my name when I asked for Bateera.

A foil container was produced, evidently Takeaway had been assumed. A reheat was arranged and the order given for a Chapatti (£1.00) and two Samosas (£1.50) for Marg, one Meat, one Vegetable.

I was pleased to see abundant – foliage – on the counter, on Monday the main Kabana had run out of Coriander, not that I shall keep mentioning this.

The Samosas were plated and taken over to Marg.

Samosa

An average size, and looking a bit naked without any Salad or Raita, just a snack. I had declined – Sauce – at the counter, the thought of smothering the Samosas did not feel right. Ahead of the game, Marg thoughtfully took the photos of the interior of each Samosa.

The Meat one was dry with a good flavour of Keema. The Vegetable one was very moist and spicy with potato, peas, plenty vegetables.

Having completed the foliage ritual at the counter, I took my booty to the table. The large Chapatti was layered. The Wholemeal flour proved to be potent, a powerfully flavoured Chapatti. Also filling, I would manage about half.

Bateera (Quail)

The Thick, Blended Masala had quite a – kick – the added Green Chillies would take this up another level. There was a definite Sweetness to the Masala, it is not known if this was a by-product of having encountered the Quail. With the Masala scooped into pieces of the Chapatti this was satisfying in its own right.

How do people sit down to five Chapattis? Marg told me a chap sitting at the window had ordered Seekh Kebab, multiple Chapattis and a main course. Maybe the latter was finished, the Starter and the majority of the Chapattis were abandoned.

Meanwhile, two chaps sat in my view with mains, Chips, Biryani, and Naan. Again, mass wastage. I felt no guilt when I had to leave half a Chapatti.

Quails are fiddly, one is not enough, two are surprisingly satisfying. Or, is it the thought that tackling a third would drive one to distraction? The Texture is different from Chicken, at least the Hector is convincing himself that this is a much more Gamey experience, much tastier Meat.

Salty lips – the second time in a week I have noted this, however, this was whilst I ate. That the Seasoning was at a decent level can therefore be confirmed.

What appeared to be so little certainly filled the gut. The sorry sight of the skeletons piled on the adjacent plate turned to amusement when one tiny – wishbone – was set aside. And no, we didn’t.

The Bill

£11.00

The Aftermath

The serving chap called me by name once again, always a nice touch. The seating area was nearing empty as we departed, Takeaways were still flying out the door. Why don’t we have places like this in Glasgow?

This was Visit #5, Kabana CH deserves its own page and its place in Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses.

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Manchester – Lahori Badsha – The Magnificent Seven

The invitation was extended, those wishing to join Marg and Hector at Lahori Badsha (140 Cheetham Hill Rd, Manchester, England M8 8PZ) should meet in the lobby for 13.00. To share a kilo of Fresh Lamb Karahi (£25.00) requires multiples of two or three. We were seven: two kilos – not enough – three kilos – too much. Marg would make the formula simpler by opting for Lamb Chops (£8.50), an opperchancity to have five to herself.

Dr. Stan and Marg set off on foot whilst Hector sorted an Uber for five. The advance party arrived at Lahori Badsha at 13.10. Mein Host and Chef: Nasar Ullah Khan Raja – to give him his Sunday name, recognised the Hector.

Only one large table was free, we spread out and waited a considerably long time for the table to be wiped. If there is a fundamental criticism to be made at Lahori Badsha, it’s about the slow service out front, cutlery for example, was very much an afterthought. When Marg and Dr. Stan arrived they were given menus, the rest of us had to twiddle our thumbs.

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In time, the Hector got to work.

Two kilos, four Naan (£1.00) and Lamb Chops. Some dared to question the Bread order. Knowing what comes, this should be enough. With no Keema Naan on offer, Clive accepted the flow. Water was also ordered, the first of two – two litre bottles – (£3.00) was presented, sneaky. A jug or two would have sufficed.

We were seven, however, eight plates and glasses were brought to the table. Salad (£2.50) and Raita (£2.00) followed, but not the means of dispensing. The Lamb Chops then arrived leaving Marg to go in search of cutlery. By the time the Salad reached my end of the table the Karahi was ready to be served.

Fresh Lamb Karahi in Lahori Style

The first kilo was placed between Hector, Steve and Maggie. There was that brief moment when we looked at it and wondered, is this actually two kilos? This was a lot of Meat. The second kilo and the Naans, some halved, were placed at the far end of the table. Dr. Stan would be sharing with Clive and Howard. Chef monitored the proceedings. I wonder how often he has had to prepare two kilos simultaneously.

Ladies first, and so Maggie was first to be in raptures, but only after she went through the ritual of fearing all might be too Spicy. As if. This was Maggie’s first ever Manchester Curry, what a place to start.

With Naan, Salad and Karahi arranged on the plate, it was time for Hector to get stuck in.

Wow!

This was only the third time I have mustered enough people to justify the kilo at Lahori Badsha . After today, I believe there should be no problem with numbers. Lahori Karahi, the – King of Curry, today’s was truly spectacular.

The Meat was astonishing, apart from my final rogue piece, it was melt in the mouth. The Flavours from the pale, Peppery Masala flooded the palate. What a texture. Tomato-based one assumes, it was difficult to tell. The occasional Tomato skin was visible, but the telltale seeds were not prominent. As always, the Hector was mesmerised, how do they make this? The texture can be replicated, but this depth of Flavour?

Having taken a decent portion, it was back for more. Steve and Hector ensured the karahi was wiped clean. Not much attention was being paid to the action at the other end of the table, too far to tell if Dr. Stan was uttering his usual – Mmmm.

In our trio Steve stopped eating first. Maggie was right there at the end for the final spoonful. Three sharing was ideal, two would have been excessive.

Maggie had avoided the sliced Bullet Chillies, she therefore had no issue with the Spice Level. The Seasoning was spot on, not intrusive at all. I apologised for bringing my friends here and putting them through this ordeal. I was forgiven.

Steve concurred, this was the best Lahori Karahi we have experienced at Lahori Badsha .

In the course of the day, quotes were secured:

Steve – succulent meat, wonderfully spiced, no complaints.

Maggie – amazing meat, too many green things, I gave them to you. Half a Naan was plenty, the Salad was adequate, plenty of flavour.

Clive – lovely, tender meat. Spot on spicing. Lovely consistency of the juice, could not be called soupy by any means. Could be a bit more imaginative with the Naans.

Yes, Clive could have eaten a whole Keema Naan today.

Dr. Stan – a really good Curry, good selection of spices, very rich, and the meat was tender. Yes, I liked it.

Howard was as eloquent, as ever:

It was evident from the very first taste that this was an excellent Curry. The sauce had flavour and a perfect spice level. The lamb, for the most part, was soft and elicited its own superb flavour.

This was not the end of Howard’s decree, the Hector had been duped.

Lamb Chops

Reasonably well-fired – was Marg’s verdict. A lot of Meat on the Chops, tasty.

With the Salad and Raita, Marg had quite a plateful. The fifth Chop was on offer, but the Hector had no room. I encouraged Marg to have the fifth, the only chance she might ever have. Little did the Hector know, but sleight of hand was at work.

Howard had the fifth Lamb Chop!

The bone was even returned to Marg’s plate to maintain the illusion.

The Lamb Chop had its own separate, but distinct flavour and was an excellent addition to the main act – remarked, my friend…

The Bill

£68.50 There was no charge for the Salad and Raita which made the £6.00 for water bearable. We agreed £12.00 a head for those who had Karahi, and paid individually in a combination of cash and card.

The Aftermath

Whilst the payment was being sorted, Chef produced his phone. Hector’s profile on a certain social medium was displayed. We are friends.

As we departed, Marg drew my attention to the gas stove where the pressure cookers were performing.

We had  devoured their afternoon quota of Lamb, time to cook more.

How long is a – Whistle?

 

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Manchester – Kabana – A Symphony of Flavours

The Company – are  mob-handed in Manchester this week. Whilst many will head to Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England) over the next few days, Marg and Hector made Kabana the first calling point after check-in at Ancoats.

Arriving at 15.20, Rizwan, Mein Host was out back, Lalaa, his able assistant was ready to serve us, but the Man himself magically appeared.

The usual? – asked Rizwan. This was confirmed, plus Keema Peas (£6.50) and a Chapatti (£1.00) for Marg. Marg’s – usual. Both the Karahi Lamb (£6.50) and the Rice (£2.00) have gone up by 50p since my visit last month.

On taking a table mid-room it became apparent that English was not being spoken at the adjacent occupied tables. A range of European languages were heard, people are discovering Kabana. Two kids were tucking into Chips, not the awful boxed, frozen impersonators that many venues serve. These Chips were huge, flat, and even made from Potato.

Rizwan brought the Order as the components were ready. Kabana is fast food, only the Chapatti had to be fired. The Chapatti had risen, and was delightfully light and fluffy. The two bowls of – foliage – were brought from the counter, no Coriander, Kabana had run out. Disgraceful, what greedy customer(s) had excessively smothered their Curry with this fine Herb?

Do you need the Chillies on top? – asked Marg.

It makes it a challenge – was Hector’s reply.

Karahi Lamb on-the-bone  / Rice

The naked Curry had to be dressed.

When Rice is ordered at Kabana, it’s a matter of how much food can one get on the plate? Double figures – is only a rough estimate when counting the Meat. The Meat to Masala ratio is such that one has to manage the latter when having Rice. Kabana is the only place I have Rice with Karahi.

The quality of the Lamb never fails to impress, one day I’ll establish the breed of animal. Cooked to perfection, as always, the – right – amount of chewing was required. Despite the quantity, Hector would not be exhausted on completion of this Curry.

The mouth feel the Masala creates is one of comfort, so smooth. And if Clove is the underlying feature of a Manchester Curry, then this is but an overture to the symphony of Flavours thereafter. Black Peppercorns were unearthed as I ate, the only sign of Whole Spice.

Marg was amused when I took the Sucky Bone and – sucked – out the Marrow. It’s good to have an audience.

Seasoning and Spice Level is a given at Kabana. The – foliage – adds that bit extra. It’s always with sadness when one reaches the end. Not a grain of Rice was left.

Keema Peas

This was a classic Keema Mutter, no sign of peripheral Oil, and no Masala per se.

Marg did not feel the need to decorate her Curry. With abundant Peas, maybe there was enough distraction from the moist Mince.

A full bowl of well seasoned Keema Mutter. Full of flavour, and one of the best, soft and largest Chapattis, complemented the Curry.

On another visit to our table, Rizwan mentioned a recent article in the Manchester Evening News. The author knew of and had evidently visited all the Northern Quarter Curry Cafes except Kabana. Keeping the best to last? The Lamb Chops (£6.50) were enjoyed here, one Dish the Hector has yet to experience.

The Bill

£16.00 For two, amazing! And that’s after the modest price increase.

The Aftermath

Lalaa is always happy to pose for a photo. I can now reveal that he is in fact – le Chef! Meanwhile, Marg spotted a chap with a proper camera and assumed he was another Blogger. Apparently not, but the Calling Card was handed over anyway.

Why were Marg and Hector so smug as, one by one, the rest of The Company realised that it was late, and they hadn’t eaten?

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