Bradford – International – Curry-Heute #2

A day in Halifax with friends, various, concluded with the second Curry of the day. Time to have a full-blown Curry, a heavyweight. Arriving at International (40-42 Morley Street, Bradford, BD7 1BA) just after 22.00, the first observation was the opening times have changed once more. Gone are the lunchtimes, back to the standard 16.30. As is written above, Hector has his ritual venue(s) for brunch. Maybe Karachi tomorrow for some Kofta Palak?

A mature waiter, and it’s good to see one here again after the succession of weans who have served in recent times, showed us to a small table for two. International was hardly busy, so when Marg asked if the wobbly table could be sorted, we were invited to move to the adjacent, larger table.

Poppadoms were offered, and declined. In the halcyon days at International, they would simply have arrived with an array of Chutney/Dips also. Tonight’s Order had an air of familiarity, the same as on our recent visits. For Hector – Lamb Nawabi Khana (£12.95), a Curry that is found across Yorkshire. Why menus always quote – 21 Spices – remains a mystery, I don’t think I could name twenty one Spices, however, the complexity impresses.

International maintains the Bradford tradition of inclusive (3) Chapattis, (2) Roti, Rice or Naan. For reasons which no waiter has ever explained, if one orders say a Garlic Naan (£3.50), one forfeits the Plain Naan (£2.95). So it goes.

Lamb Chops (£7.95) for Marg. Marg knows what to expect here, she also asked that these be served at the same time as my Nawabi Khana.

Another waiter approached, he offered Poppadoms, again declined. We did see piles of Poppadoms being taken to subsequent diners. The young waiter, who had been cleaning the laminated menus as we arrived, had finished his task. He too approached, again, Poppadoms were declined. International must be making megabucks on Poppadoms etc.

Lamb Chops

Records show that a Lamb Chops portion at International was five, tonight – four. They were appreciably larger than most, so still a decent portion. Suitably cremated in the correct places, these Chops were enticing. Hector was not tempted, eating Curry-Heute #2 would be challenge enough.

Meaty – and – succulent – was the cry from across the table. Still the Hector  was not tempted.

The Naan was perfect. Served whole, it had risen, displayed burnt blisters, was light and puffy, and might even have been cooked in a Tandoor! There, it can happen.

More than a Hector could manage, Marg was willing to help out latterly.

*

*

Lamb Nawabi Khana

Behold the mountain of Meat! The Masala was Minimal, the ratio of Meat to Masala that works so well in Bradford Curry.

There was a big blast of both Clove and Methi, classic Bradford Curry. The Spice Level was noted then revised upwards, it kept growing. The Seasoning was such, the – Wow! – was instantaneous. Wonderful.

The concern: how to manage all that sat before me. The first half of the Curry was accompanied by Naan, thereafter, I could only visit the Bread basket sparingly. Meat Curry twice on one day, maybe the Hector is not ready for that yet? And all because I chose Fish last night at Sultans.

The Meat was delightfully soft, chewing was required, a realistic amount of effort. The Meat was saturated in Spice, so much Flavour coming back here, the complexity was apparent. Maybe I couldn’t verify twenty one Spices, but I have cooked enough Curry to know when I may have gone overboard.

Two wedges of half-cooked Tomato sat in the mix. I ate one early on, this too was giving back so much. I resolved to leave the other piece to the end. Marg had her eyes on it. Indeed, Marg could sense the extent to which I was struggling, Lamb Nawabi Khana was crossing the table, and there was no outburst re the Spice Level. Maybe – Lisboa – has finally killed this?

The final mouthfuls were made all the more difficult by the palate becoming contaminated with something airborne. Was it the cleaning fluid used to wipe the menus? A puff of smoke revealed the lighting of Joss sticks. This aromatic deposit on the palate, I could have done without.

A mountain of Meat, between us, the karahi was emptied. Compared to the portion at Sultans yesterday, the obvious does not have to be written.

Our original waiter eventually came to check on our progress. The positive replies were what he wanted to hear. International went through some sticky years, this generation have got it back to its best.

The Bill

£20.90   I did have to challenge what looked like a charge for drinks. A stray Irn Bru had somehow been allocated to us. Not only the Scots drink Irn Bru.

The Aftermath

It felt strange leaving before midnight. Back in the day, one didn’t come here until the small hours.

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Bradford (Frizinghall) – Sultans Restaurant – Distinctive Curry

Three nights in Bradford, there could be a Curry or three looming. To begin, a return to the new Sultans Restaurant (204-206 Keighley Rd., Frizinghall, Bradford BD9 4JZ England) locus at Frizinghall. The 19.30 train from Forster Square took four minutes, the walk up the hill from the valley bottom took longer. Already, the Hector had decided on a bus back to North Parade to save walking up the hill again.

No Scottish Notes – was posted in a sign at the reception. For the record, Sultans is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. End of bulletin.

Hector was in the mood for Fish: Sultan Fish Karahi (Haddock) (£15.00) has been enjoyed previously at the original premises. Fifteen quid, again one wonders why in the UK, a Meat Curry is cheaper than a Fish Curry whilst the reverse holds on Mainland Europe.

For Marg, Keema Karahi (£12.00), after a longer than expected journey down from Glasgow, she too was hungry. At Sultans, main courses come with three Chapattis each, a Bradford tradition that many venues have abandoned. The price of the Fish was already forgiven.

A table of four chaps,  who must have been here for the 17.00 opening, sat opposite. They departed not long after our arrival. Two chaps took their place, it was quiet this Wednesday evening.

A Modest Salad was brought to the table, the bottle of sauce was already there.

Four Chapattis accompanied the Mains thus avoiding a needless waste of Bread. Between us we managed these, Marg said she did not fully have two. The waiter did offer more as he saw the pile diminish, our entitlement, was duly declined.

These are the traditional Chapattis that were a feature of Glasgow Curry Houses before wholemeal flour began to dominate. Much lighter, a conveyor of food, rather than being a focal point of the meal. These I like.

Sultan Fish Karahi

The portion appeared to be small, though these mini-karahi can be deceptive. When the Bread does its job, the appetite is soon sated, enough. This was as Dry a Fish Karahi as one will encounter, the collecting peripheral Oil was at a minimum. The Haddock had been flaked, therefore along with whatever quantity of Masala was present, the combined mixture was little more than a Mash. Last time, there were recognisable pieces of Fish.

Fishy! – as in tasting of Fish – was noted, a good beginning. Many a Fish Curry has been blogged where this was not the case. The Spice would build slowly on the palate, as would the Seasoning which did seem to be a tad low initially.

The mix of Spices gave a unique Flavour which I could not fathom. What was here, what was not, only Chef could tell us. Pleasant, enjoyable, but short of the – Wow! Does the Lisbon Curry hangover continue? Or even the intensity of Flavour achieved in yesterday’s home-cooked Aloo Gobi? Let’s celebrate this being a welcomed Dry Fish Karahi. At the end – salty lips – was noted.

Mein Host, resplendent in his Chef’s gear, brought the Order to the other diners. He acknowledged us en route.

Keema Karahi

The same size of portion, I will remind the Reader that at Sultans, one can – go large – on quite a few Dishes. This is now an extra £6.00.

I could not help but marvel at what appeared to be a complete lack of Masala and absolutely no Oil. In effect, Marg had a karahi filled with Spicy Mince.

Ground Mince – is how Marg described it – smooth – also.

That was excellent, full of flavour, rich in taste. It just felt perfect with the light bread. I could have kept eating it, but I’m full.

I had to ask the waiter if we paid him, or at reception. Out I went.

*

The Bill

£27.00. It was Mein Host himself who handled the card payment. Clearly he still likes to be seen front of house.

The Aftermath

Back to North Parade to find a TV, we ended up at the Peacock Bar who tonight were not serving nibbles. Somehow Manchester City have reached the European Cup Final.

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Hector Cooks: Aloo Gobi

Hector had a huge Cauliflower which was in danger of going past its best. Having not cooked anything for a while, it was decreed time to try Aloo Gobi. The recipe is that published in – Cook with Nabeela. Mushy Aloo Gobi is horrible, better al dente than pulp. Nabeela gives the hint – cook without a lid on the pot – else everything is steamed too quickly.  I have oft wondered if the Potato and Cauliflower are partially cooked before introducing them to the Masala Mash, no, cooked from raw. This is something I first encountered when cooking the wonderful – Aloo Tare Ko – and yes, that is a link to my Recipe.

With only 300g of the Cauliflower required, that leaves a decision: what else to cook later?

Red Onions? I had white Onions and Potatoes with red skins. Having finely chopped the Onions I felt I had an imbalance already, an extra Tomato was added, three in all. Thereafter, a traditional Masala was created, maybe a few ingredients fewer than a full blown Hector Masala.

50ml of Water? I probably added 100ml in all to ensure the Mash did not stick. One cannot stray far from the stove when cooking this Vegetable Curry.

With everything in the pot and the cooking into the final stretch, the Potatoes and Cauliflower were still firm. In the last five minutes everything was changing, the knife test was revealing softening Vegetables. Going too far, Mush, I stopped at – al dente – which is how I prefer my Aloo Gobi.

In restaurants, the Masala Mash at the base has always intrigued, now I know, a standard Masala. Visibly, this creation was as good as I have encountered, but it’s all about the Flavour.

To declare a – Wow! – in my own cooking is somewhat boastful, so I’ll again honour Nabeela for her recipe. This was well beyond my expectations, yet no Methi, Cinnamon, Cardamom which would normally go into my own Masala.

The Spice and Seasoning were well pitched, and yes, I had kept the Salt to one teaspoon as per recipe. The Flavours were a la restaurant, then something familiar hit the palate. The Yadgar Taste – has been celebrated frequently in these pages. I have always suspected Carrot as being their – secret (denied). Now I wonder if it’s actually blended Cauliflower? That I am able to mention Yadgar (Glasgow) at all should surely confirm the efficacy of this Aloo Gobi.

Marg, you don’t know what you’ve missed!

Yes, the recipe was enough for two, but in reheating, the nature of this Curry will change. This is one to cook and eat immediately.

Next time, half Cumin Seeds, half Fenugreek Seeds and dry Methi. Can one improve upon perfection?

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace (New-co) – On The Sunday in Life # The Counter is Reset

When in the Course of human events, it becomes necessary for one people to dissolve the political bands which have connected them with another, and to assume among the powers of the earth, the separate and equal station to which the Laws of Nature and of Nature’s God entitle them, a decent respect to the opinions of mankind requires that they should declare the causes which impel them to the separation.

It is with a sad heart that Hector has to accept that Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) in 2023 is not what it was. Three times in recent weeks the shutters have been down, albeit partially. The staff have been on the premises – a Big Job – has been the excuse on each occasion to deny service. This is not the service a restaurant customer expects. Reliable opening times, and of course the quality of the Fayre presented, are paramount, else one takes one’s business elsewhere. For Hector, today’s Curry at Karahi Palace has forced me to reclassify it as a New-co, however, if Chef Rashid ever manages to return, then this decision will be reviewed.

With no cooking duties today, Hector was able to join the BBC – Bad Boys’ Club. Prior to the partaking of ale, there was a ritual Curry. In a phone-call last night to Karahi Palace, having found the shutters down yesterday afternoon, Chef gave assurance it would be business as normal today.

Arriving at 13.35, I greeted Chef with – We’re open!

He apologised for all that has been happening. He and his colleague were on site from 06.00 yesterday morning preparing – a Big Order. As I have posted previously, is Karahi Palace becoming a – kitchen? Chef then instructed me to ignore the shutters – next time – just come in, he will cook for me. So, a – next time – is anticipated, Saturday afternoon is no longer a reliable time for the public to visit Karahi Palace.

Last month Chef was pleased when I confirmed that his Karahi Lamb (£12.00) had the – same taste – as before. Today, Spicy Lamb Korma (£10.00), not the Korma that comes to mind, but the Desi Korma which I have only ever found here, along the street at The Village, where it is not what it once was, and in Berlin at Punjabi Zaiqa. In 2010, the first year of Curry-Heute, the recipe for a Hector interpretation of Lamb Desi Korma was posted. This is a very Special Curry. As has become the norm when ordering Spicy Lamb Korma at Karahi Palace, Mushroom Rice (£5.00) would accompany.

I took my favourite seat, a jug of Water, Modest Salad and Raita were soon brought to the table. Southside tap water has lost its chemical taste, is this then seasonal? Mr. Ali, the new owner, entered with a delivery of supplies. His greeting was warm, with reference to Chef:

I’ve told him to look after you.

He always does – was the somewhat curt reply. Well one wouldn’t expect otherwise.

After an appropriate wait, Chef brought the food. Wtf?

The Wrong Recipe : The Wrong Curry

Yellow, Creamy and presumably containing Coconut, not what the Hector ordered. One can already conclude that all the Karahi Palace recipes and secrets have not been passed on to the New-co. As I had no reason not to assume that Chef knew what I was expecting, and not wishing to waste food, I accepted what was presented.

This is what I was expecting.

2022 Spicy Lamb (Desi) Korma

Previously, on ordering the Mushroom Rice, I have either shared the large portion or decided at the outset that half would become Takeaway. Today’s portion was almost manageable as a portion, wastage was therefore anticipated, too much to eat, potentially not enough left over to justify packing. I now have to question if the price was justified?

The Mushrooms were fresh, important, but this was way more than a simple Mushroom Rice. I would go on to unveil Cloves, Black Cardamom and Cinnamon Bark. Whole Spices, it has been a while. Yesterday I praised the Special Rice at Glassy Central (Glasgow) as being a veritable Vegetable Biryani due to the variety of Vegetables present and the overall Flavour Today’s Mushroom Rice packed even more Flavour. I have to use the term – Desi – this was at another level, and possibly even better than original Karahi Palace.

Eight pieces of Meat, some on-the-bone, sat atop the splendid Rice. Who has ever had a Korma on-the-bone? The Spice Level was certainly above the – bland – which makes this a popular Curry with women and children. How condescending. Korma can be hyper Sweet, fortunately, this was not. Whatever the quantity of Coconut, if any, it was not in the face.

The Lamb at Karahi Palace typically gives back abundant Flavour, Desi Curry. The Meat today wasn’t doing much, Creaminess was drowning all. Even Hector has to accept that Chicken better suits Masalas such as this, e.g. in Patia too. I never wrote that.

At the counter, I showed Chef what I was expecting. Next time – was the response.

There will be a next time. Much has been promised, time will tell if Karahi Palace New-co can deliver.

The Bill

£15.00   Card payments have been restored

The Aftermath

Passing in the bus at 22.30, the shutters were fully down, closed. That is early, though on a Sunday, practical.

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Glasgow – Glassy Central – Open at Lunchtimes, Once Again – Unlike…

Hector was having a good day. The Famous – were winning against their city rivals, a Spicy Lamb (Desi) Korma at Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) could be the icing on the cake. Alas, the shutters were down, again. This is the third time that Hector has arrived to find the staff obviously inside, but not open to the public at the advertised time. And all since the new management came into place. I phoned this evening and was once again given the official line – a Big Order. I made it clear – if Karahi Palace wish to continue to be seen as a restaurant and not a kitchen, then they have to open for their customers. I was assured Karahi Palace would be open at noon tomorrow and Monday. A challenge.

I had given up thoughts of Curry-Heute as I approached The State Bar at 14.30, once more in a somewhat elated mood. Bunkers later, ah, but, behold – Glassy Central (285 Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow G2 3HQ) – as promised by Kinder, Mein Host, at start of March, was open early in the day! The irony, and an opperchancity not to be missed.

Rajesh the new, enthusiastic manager, greeted me like a long lost friend. Given the number of Glasgow venues he has worked in, it is likely we have met before. He was aware from the start that all would be recorded.

The young waiter, clearly a new start, brought the – 3 Course Lunch Menu – available 12.00 until 15.00. I’ll remind the Reader, today is Saturday, and the prices are unbelievable: Business Lunch (£5.95), Executive Lunch (£6.95). Assuming  portions are not – Nouvelle Cuisine – get here soon, this is unsustainable.

The Hector asked for the Main Menu, though for a moment – Chicken Chat, Lamb Karahi with Nan – was almost ordered. Note, no surcharge for Meat. If a Mainstream Curry was to be had, then let’s go for something powerful in Flavour. Lamb Achari (£9.95) with Special Rice (£3.50) (without Capsicum) was the Order.

A 330ml bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.00) would accompany. Rajesh was keen for me to order more, Bread, Punjabi Lamb Chops (£5.95). I assured him I had ordered what I could manage. I promised that when I bring Marg, we’ll have the Chops!

Prices have increased since my first visit, but remain competitive for a city centre restaurant. If the daytime opening maintains, Glassy Central could become a useful venue for Hector when time to cross the river is at a premium.

Rajesh was keen to chat whilst I waited. The Curry-Heute website was revealed, a Calling Card issued already. All quite intense. Above Medium Spice – was added in at some point. Chef was cooking for me only, the other diners were departing.

The Special Rice lived up to its name. In March, Peas, Carrots and Green Beans were in the mix. Today, these were complemented by Broccoli and Cauliflower, a veritable Biryani. Once all was sorted, this creation proved to have a powerful Flavour in its own right. A Vegetable Biryani indeed, excellent.

Lamb Achari

One cannot help but count the Meat when decanting, double figures were reached, a decent portion. The Masala had a welcome level of viscosity, Soup – this was not. Bhoona Karahi – was given in the description. As far as Mainstream Curry goes, this looked to be just the job.

The blast of Pickle came across immediately, no skimping here. The Spice was well pitched, not demanding, no extremes, just a decent level. The Seasoning had me won, this was spot on. With these three parameters in harmony, plus the extra Flavours from the Special Rice, this proved to be a most satisfying Curry, as good as Achari gets. 

Rajesh asked for points out of ten. I told him I don’t do that, but did praise the Seasoning. This was relayed back to the kitchen.

As I reached the end game, so I was informed that as the only diner present, I could choose the music.

Next weekend, Marg and Hector are off to Morecambe to see Pendragon play their first UK gigs since Lockdown. Remember Hector’s escape from Polska? Rajesh went to his laptop – Breaking The Spell – a Pendragon Classic was broadcast through the restaurant.

Curry, Pendragon, and a victory for – The Famous – Hector was having a good day.

The Bill

£16.45 This was nearly rounded down, I insisted on paying what I owed.

The Aftermath

There was a flurry of photography. Chef Krishna came to do the honours, I ensured his image was captured also. As Rajesh walked me up the stairs, so he informed me that Glassy Central are losing money on their Lunch Menu unless people buy drinks. Who drinks at lunchtime?

Menu

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Glasgow – DumPukht Lahori – Hector Meets The Dignitaries

Rather pay the extortionate fee to enter Glasgow Airport, Marg agreed to pick up Hector outside Green Gates (Renfrew). This was the fallback if DumPukht Lahori (39-41 Paisley Rd. West, Glasgow G51 1LG) was not yet open. The delayed flight from Gatwick ensured Plan A maintained.

It was 18.45 when Marg and Hector entered a sun-drenched DumPukht Lahori. There was no sign of Aqeel, Mein Host. His current assistant, Waqas, unknowingly showed us to what has become our usual table. En route, I passed a chap who recognised me. Curryspondent – Councillor Jon, he who first sent me to Cafe Reeshah, a decade ago! It was good to establish that he still follows these pages. On the far side of the room was a mature chap having an extended Coffee. I noted the coffee machine has pride of place in the room, the vessels have gone. It is seventeen months since Hector was last at DumPukht, the later opening time does not suit.

After copious Charsi Karahi last week in Lisboa and on Monday at Dawat (Tooting), Hector desired something less Tomatoey, a classic Lahori Karahi is what was desired, a kilo of course! We had both starved ourselves today to make this possible.

Lamb Lahori Karahi (£34.99) would be accompanied by a Roti (£1.50) and a Till Naan (£2.99). Waqas was not having this, the half kilo (£17.99) should surely suffice? It had to be made clear: I’m a Hector and I’m having my kilo!

Prices have increased significantly at DumPukht Lahori, they had to. At the time of opening, Aqeel was not charging enough, even though he was using lesser cuts of Meat. With rampant inflation, he could not have survived otherwise.

Waqas went to relay the Order. This prompted Aqeel to come from the kitchen for verification. There was a hug. It has been a long time, and he knows why, however, an 02.00 closing time is not commensurate with an early start, except Sundays for – Nashta. Aqeel was determined that after we had eaten, we should meet his Coffee Customer, a legend, apparently. How many – Legends – are there in Glasgow?

Tap Water appeared to suffice, then Marg decided a Mango Lassi (£4.99) was required. Starting with Dessert, why not?

Prior to this she had considered a Starter. Hunger?

Such was the size of the Lassi, Marg had to share. Sharing? A rarity in this Blog.

We had a good chat with Jon before his departure, consequently, our wait for the Karahi passed in no time. The sun was in our eyes, but this would lead to some interesting photos.

*

*

The puffy Chapatti was substantial, Wholemeal has become the norm in Glasgow. Whatever happened to the traditional thin Chapattis? Over the years, I can refer to DumPukht thus, Aqeel has presented some excellent Bread. My preference is risen and puffy, today’s was well risen. Records show the Til Naan in various guises, the surface of tonight’s was so again, the interior, wonderful. We left no Bread. Waqas also brought Raita and a Modest Salad, these would subsequently work their way on to the dinner plate.

Lamb Lahori Karahi

This kilo looked a lot bigger than my last kilo in Tooting. Suitably dressed with Ginger Strips and Finger Chillies cut lengthwise, this was a full kilo of Hector’s desire. With two diners, there’s no need to count, two large portions of Karahi were coming Hector’s way, Marg had all she required. After Lisboa, Marg did not make her usual starting cry re the Spice Level. The Spice Level was ecumenical, the Chillies were for as and when. Still, it’s all about the Flavour and that is Seasoning dependent. Perfection – was noted, hence the full Flavour of the Spices emerged, including the hoped for Pepperiness, the distinctive Flavour of Mutton, wonderful. It was all happening here.

Aqeel came out to check all was well, receive the thumbs up from Hector, take his bow, and hear Marg express her appreciation. Marg too was thoroughly enjoying her Karahi.

The Meat was glorious, no sign of lesser cuts this evening. With both Meat and Masala giving off Flavour, this was a manifestation of the joy of eating. At no point did the kilo feel extravagant. Having tread carefully in the last couple of years, maybe the pre-Covid appetite has returned?

The Bill

£45.50   Is the end of the penny?

The Aftermath

And so Captain Fareed came over to join us. I have seen him at Ambala, a member of the group of chaps oft  sat at the first window table. Touring the Desi Houses of the Southside, this is what he does. In addition to praising Aqeel’s culinary skills, he spontaneously derided all Curry featuring Chicken, even Vegetables. Lamb is what it’s all about! I had to mention Fish Karahi, this too he appreciates. Not that this is easy to come by. No Chicken Curry! A man after Hector’s heart.

We were joined by Saad Sikander who had been chatting outside. In addition to his main activity which benefits the community, he has the BBQ Hut Peri Peri on Kilbowie Rd. (Clydebank), not far from Hector’s House. I had to describe how every Curry served in Clydebank tastes the same. He explained this in terms of the Base Masala, however I was hoping he had a deeper insight, as in – it’s a Base Masala from the same kitchen. A wild theory, but empirical.

There was an appreciation that Marg and I have been to India and Sri Lanka. Visiting Pakistan is presently off the agenda, they admitted.

Contact details were exchanged, hopefully something will develop from this.

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Wandsworth – Dawat Tooting – A Flying Visit

Kostas is in London! This historic occasion had to be marked, we would rendezvous later. Hector flew south early this morning to Gatwick. Despite my spending last week with Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley in Lisboa, they were happy to host the Hector.

Having taken different routes from Crawley to Wandsworth earlier this year, Clive had come up with a third, and hopefully more efficient, one: train to Clapham Junction, bus to Tooting Bec. This worked smoothly, though we were left with the substantial walk from Tooting Bec towards Tooting Broadway. We did get to marvel at Daily Fresh Naan. Naans of every description, imagine having this on your doorstep!

On the train journey, there was time to study various menus, Dawat Tooting (256-258 Upper Tooting Rd, London SW17 0DN England) became the venue of choice, directly across the street from Tooting Curry #1 at Lahore Karahi.

Arriving at 13.00 on this Coronation Bank Holiday Monday, Dawat was stowed. We were led to a table at the rear of the restaurant, only a few tables on the raised dias remained. Families, groups, everyone was here for – Curry.

We had already agreed that today, we would – do the kilo. Dawat Special Charsi Lamb Karahi (£29.99) is good value. £19.99 for the half kilo is most certainly not.

Maggie, as ever, was concerned that the Karahi might be – too Spicy. I thought we had buried that in Lisboa? I assured here that nowhere serves Karahi that is going to be OTT. Well, until I discover otherwise.

Desi-Apna – was mentioned to the waiter, to ensure we were having the authentic Karahi. He consequently confirmed – on-the-bone.

Bread for Maggie, Hector and Clive: Chappati (£1.49), Chili Naan (£2.25) and Keema Naan (£4.99) respectively. That must be a lot of Keema.

A large bottle of water (£2.49) was already on the table. Having accepted this, it was somewhat annoying to see a jug of tap water being brought to another table. No ice was offered by the waiter, a Modest Salad and bottle of sauce did mark the completion of the Order. Maggie did remark on the poverty of the Salad, I explained the term – Modest.

The small print says a thirty minute wait, the Karahi and Chapatti arrived in twenty minutes, it took another five for the Naans, Maggie got torn in first.

Dawat Special Charsi Lamb Karahi

The sliced Bullet Chillies did cause Maggie concern, I assured here these were not as potent as the more common Finger Chillies.

Maggie’s verdict:

Meat was tender, not too spicy. Tomato, Coriander, Bullet Chillies visible. Enough, better than I thought due to industrial nature of the place.

Clive: The meat was extremely tender, not too many bones.

It appears that this Charsi Karahi lived up to expectations.

Served on a flat karahi, the Coriander Topping was minimal.  No Ginger? The Meat count reach around thirty. The reddish Masala, Tomato-based as I observed it, was appropriately Minimal. There was an Oily base rather than the collection of peripheral Oil.

Once Maggie had taken her helping, she drew a line in the Masala, suddenly a kilo did not feel like a challenge. There would be enough for three, just.

The kick was decent, only by combining with the Chillies could this have caused a normal person discomfort. Clive had the only Sucky Bone, and as he realised, the bone count was not excessive. Most of the Lamb was Tender, some pieces inevitably required more chewing. The Tomatoey – Charsi – Flavour was present, so authentic Karahi. My only issue was with the Seasoning, or lack thereof. However, this could be a Lisboa Curry hangover. No – Wow! – today, yet so many last week.

Served whole, the Wholemeal Chapatti had air pockets on arrival: hot, and well cooked. The Chilli Naan had the required puffiness, however, the pock marks created by the embedded Chillies took it towards – Roghni – therefore a bit thin in parts.  How did I miss the Methi Naan (£2.49)?

All but a scrap of the Keema Naan was eaten. Well fired, and coated with Sesame Seeds, as ever, Hector was keen to see the interior. The Curry-Heute Test was failed. This Keema Naan had the slabs of pink meat resembling – Donner – rather than discrete grains of Mince, which is the expected standard.

That I ate all confirms the Naan was a sensible size and sharing a kilo with three is not a challenge. Oh dear, Hector’s brain is working overtime, what’s next?

Dr. Bernard may have insisted I come to Tooting for Curry, I should insist that he goes to Lisboa. In the meantime, people now tell me I have to go to Southall.

The Bill

£41.21 For three diners, no complaints, well maybe the presumptive water.

The Aftermath

Having seen the manager throughout our visit, he had vanished at the point of payment. The Calling Card was given to a young member of staff. As I returned to my seat, so the manager reappeared. The Calling Card was examined, briefly. So it goes.

Menu extracts

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Edinburgh – Kebab Mahal – Coronation Lamb

After the crowning of King Charles III, Hector found himself in Edinburgh en route to Carnoustie. Before the rendezvous with Marg at Peffermill, there was time for Curry-Heute. Kebab Mahal (7 Nicolson Square, Edinburgh EH8 9BH) was the logical venue.

Arriving at 14.20, Mein Host greeted. This was my first Edinburgh Curry in nine months, by coincidence it was at this very venue en route home from Carnoustie. Why visit Edinburgh?  Monty’s at Haymarket has gone, and that was the only pub in the city, allegedly. Having tried twice, to secure a Lamb Bhuna in Lisboa earlier in the week at Radhuni, Hector was not for giving up. Lamb Bhuna (£10.95) was duly ordered with Vegetable Pilau (£3.65).

The TV was showing Sky News. The appearance of the Royals on the Buckingham Palace balcony, followed by  the curtailed flypast, was timed for 14.30. And so it was.

A mere ten minutes after ordering, the food arrived. More Rice than I could ever manage, but suitably rich with an array of Interesting Vegetables: Potatoes, Carrots, Green Beans, Beans (other), Peas, Sweetcorn. A meal in itself.

Lamb Bhuna

The Meat count was into double figures, each piece decidedly – large. Lots of Lamb here. Wedges of half-cooked Tomato were mixed through also, reminiscent of the once classic Rogan Josh. There was just enough Masala to cover the Rice. Sliced Onions had found their way into the Masala after the base had been cooked.

The – Desi – Flavour was subtle, understated. Seasoning, or a lack of, is a recurring theme at Kebab Mahal. After the sheer intensity of Lisboa Curry in recent days, the next Curry was always going to be a bit of a let down. The Spices in this Bhuna were there, but the lack of Seasoning was apparent.  Chefs have to be – brave.  Hector is missing Rua do Benformoso already.

As I neared the end, a Chap from the kitchen offered me water. Once again, I had forgotten to help myself to a drink from the fridge.

The Bill

£14.60

The Aftermath

And so to Carnoustie. The tradition of feeding the town was maintained, this time Hector’s – Lasagna.

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Lisboa – Radhuni – A Question Seeking An Answer

The only way was to prove one way or the other that Marg and Hector ate each other’s Curry two nights ago at Radhuni (Rua do Benformoso 155 A B, 1100-084 Lisboa Portugal) was to return and order the Lamb Bhuna (€8.50) once again. The final day of this trip to Portugal, and Portuguese Fayre was planned for this evening. By going out early, Hector could squeeze in a Curry for lunch.

Hector and Marg arrived at Radhuni on the hopefully now famous, well in these pages, Rua do Benforomoso, at 12.20. Only two tables were occupied, solitary diners. We took the same table as before, right at the counter. No messing, Marg was having Samosas (€2.50).

Chef could be seen in the kitchen but did not approach. Today, no Fazal, a different waiter who was keeping to the script – no Tandoor.

To accompany the Bhuna, a Chapatti (€1.00). I had hoped today for a Naan (€1.50) – no Tandoor. I noted on the display board outside that something looking very close to the wonderful Malabar Parotta is featured. So what was it they gave me on Monday masquerading as a Paratha?

No tandoor.

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The wait was appropriate, Marg noted the photo on the wall drawing our attention to Sola Mori.  Shark?

The main course arrived with Marg’s Samosas. Today, Marg could confirm that there was Meat in the Samosa, Chicken Keema. They didn’t last long, not the largest Samosas ever seen.

The accompanying Red Chilli sauce was not touched. Too sweet, surely this belongs with the cuisine of lands further to the east of the Indian Subcontinent?

Lamb Bhuna

Here we go again.  This was nothing like as Dry as the Curry served to Marg previously as Lamb Karahi. There was possibly only a smidgen less Masala than that served to me as Lamb Bhuna. Conclusion: I’ll stick to what is written already.

This – Lamb Bhuna – was still a magnificent Curry. Yes there’s Oil, but those of us who appreciate authentic Desi Curry can take this in our stride. You don’t get this depth of Flavour without. Once again, the Spice and the Seasoning combined to create a full on Flavoursome experience.

The single Chapatti was just enough to scoop up the Masala and pieces of Meat. I counted ten pieces of Lamb, some on-the-bone. Seasoned Lamb, giving abundant Flavour, at a level at least one above a typical Restaurant Curry.

Today, a whole Green Cardamom was captured before it was bitten into, Monday’s Curry featured a Black one. I took the Masala to be once again – Tomato-based. As before, Earthy Flavours were to the fore. A Curry worthy of this trip and likely to be the last in Portugal in 2023.

The Bill

€14.50 (£12.80)

The Aftermath

I showed the waiter Fazal’s photo now published in a well known and reliable Curry Blog. Hopefully he would pass on – the information.

Reliable? Hector certainly had ordered Lamb Bhuna, what was Marg’s Curry on Monday?

Outside on the display board I noted both Lamb Bhuna and Bhuna Gosht, two different dishes?

To be continued, one day, perhaps.

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Lisboa – Radhuni – Another Outstanding Curry House on Rua do Benformoso!

An evening Curry for a change, and back to the Lisboa street which keeps giving. After an aperitif at Sputnik, Hector, Marg, Lord Clive and Lady Maggie walked the block southwards to the top end of Ruo do Benformoso, a new perspective.

Bangladeshi restaurants dominate here, on seeing Radhuni (Rua do Benformoso 155 A B, 1100-084 Lisboa Portugal) the irony was not lost. With no disrespect to The Radhuni (Loanhead, Scotland) where Marg and Hector have enjoyed great hospitality, the experience at their namesake was going to be radically different.

We secured a table right at the counter. Fazal, one of the two waiters, would engage with us throughout our visit. He listed the Dishes that were off, nothing Tandoori was available. Quite a few of the Curry Dishes were off, Hector was close to moving on.

Having had Karahi in the recent outings, it was time for – Curry. Lamb Bhuna (€8.50) and a Paratha (€2.50), should reveal lots about Radhuni. Marg opted for Lamb Karahi (€8.95) with a Chapati (€1.00), whilst Maggie took the Chicken route: Chicken Karahi (€8.50) with two Chapattis!

Clive eventually chose Chicken Madras (€7.50) with a Paratha and Garlic Rice (€3.50).

I thought we were sorted, nibbles arrived, then Marg added a Samosa (€1.50). In case Marg declared this to be the best Samosa she has ever had, Clive thought he better jump in there too.

Whether or not there was meat in the Samosa was never resolved. Packed full of goodness, both were pleased with what came.

Having studied the Starters on the counter, Maggie was desperate to find out what the – Croquette – was. A  Spring Roll – a la croquette (€2.50) may best describe what came. Maggie was in a playful mood.

Ladies, I announced, after last night’s experience,  let’s have no telling me your food is – Spicy.  Spicy – has been redefined.

Tonight, when the food arrived, there was a fair bit of puzzlement and confusion.

The Chapattis I recognised as being such: thin, wholemeal, light, fine. The Paratha?

What’s that?

Paratha.

That’s never a Paratha.

Small, nothing risen no sign of a swirl or layering, this was as thin as the Chapatti. On breaking it open there was a sign of minimalist layering, but this was shocking to serve as a Paratha. I immediately ordered another Chapatti, no point paying extra for such a pathetic piece of Bread. The Garlic Rice was substantial, enough for Clive and Maggie to share.

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Chicken Madras

Pieces of Chicken served on-the-bone, sat in an Oily Masala. There’s no point criticising the Oil content this is how it is. Desi Curry can be Oily. The Masala appeared to be rich, with Lamb this of course would have been a much better experience. Clive thoroughly enjoyed his Curry, in fact his final statement is one to note:

He said it would be hot, it was. Could have been hotter, temperature-wise. Chicken on-the-bone, how they do it in Portugal. Food was excellent.

Of all the places you have taken us to, this was the most authentic Indian.

(Note, we have all been to India, for Clive it is a case of – often,)

Chicken Karahi

This Curry did not differ much in appearance from the Madras. There may have been less Masala, and this may have been Thicker. We had to trust Fazal.

Maggie asks every time she orders a Curry that it not be too Spicy for her. Unfortunately for Maggie, there is no internationally recognised Maggie Spice Scale, but tonight Chef may have guessed right.

The right level of Spice beautiful – was an early comment.

I felt I just demolished that. It wasn’t soupy, for me the right amount of heat. Lots of flavour, I could taste all the flavour without it being drowned out by overwhelming hotness.

So far excellent, however, there is now a dilemma in how to report the following. Marg was given my Curry, I received her Karahi, neither one of us was for giving up what had been set before us. If I’m wrong, I can change it, later.

Lamb Karahi

The large pieces of Lamb, some on-the-bone, in the Thicker, Oily Masala meant this could not be the Bhuna. The first dip of Paratha into the Masala was a classic – Wow! – moment. The blast of Flavour from the Masala was a moment of joy, Hector has found another wonderful Curry House. The second in a matter of days, why else does the Reader think I was in Lisboa?

The Spice built steadily, the Seasoning was pitched to perfection: a la Hector. I have to agree with Clive, the food could have been served hotter. But the Flavours just kept coming. A whole Black Cardamom was the only identifiable Spice.

The Meat count was into double figures, so great value. The softest, Tenderest, Lamb, cooked to perfection. The richness of Flavour, Earthy I can apply here, this was a glorious eating experience.

Lamb Bhuna

This had to be the Bhuna, and what a fine example of a Dry Curry. I did well to order this, even though it was Marg who ended up having it. Marg’s thumbs were up from the start. I could have eaten that all over again – was a surprising statement.

I started the meal with a very tasty Samosa, full of vegetables, filling.

The main dish was one of the best curries I’ve ever tasted. Couldn’t be faulted, a good kick, with tender meat, even though I don’t often have Lamb on-the-bone. No sauce meant the meat went well with my Chapatti.

Marg wasn’t finished. In the same way that the display of Starters proved to be tempting, so Fazal was asked for a piece of Jalebi also on on the counter.

Finish on a sweet note – is Marg’s cry.

And destroy the lingering Spice on the palate? Linger it did, well until  an APA washed it away.

The Bill

€54.90 (£48.29)   We had eaten well.

The Aftermath

I was happy to – make Fazal famous. Maggie had further ideas. She asked to meet the Chef who had cooked her Curry, a first. Chef and the other waiter duly obliged for a photo also.

Back on to Tram 28, leading to views of the evening sky.

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I can only think of one way to verify I have the correct monikers for the above.

Menu

 

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