Manchester – Kabana – A Takeway, Glasgow Bound!

When heading back to Scotland from Manchester, Hector tries to find a train, at the right price, which gives the option for Curry at lunchtime, today, something different.

Yesterday, after the magnificent Fish Karahi creation at Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England), I asked Rizwan if he could pack a Takeaway such that it could go on a train and not have the passengers staring daggers. Rizwan suggested that if he took out two portions of Karahi Lamb (£6.00) first thing this morning, they would cool and so lose their pungency.

I placed the Order last night as a reminder, and dared to ask the question regarding Karahi Lamb that has long needed asking:

I’ll ask, despite its excellence, in what way is it Karahi?

Well to be honest when we first opened it was called lamb masala. Only changed the name to Karahi about ten years ago.

Ten years ago

As it happens, today is the tenth anniversary of Hector first setting foot in Kabana. It’s also Visit #49, no Curry House outside of Glasgow has reached #50. Next visit, the day will have to be marked. Ten years ago, the Karahi Lamb bore little resemblance to that which is presently served. Karahi Lamb 2013 (above) was decidedly Soupy, the Masala approaching Shorva. The Flavours impressed, this was significantly better than what was served in the other Northern Quarter Curry Cafes. However, I do not believe the – killer taste – was there, that evolved thereafter. If someone wants to read through the previous 48 posts, then maybe the first – Wow! – can be precisely dated. The search device (top right) gives Steve as having uttered the first – Wow! – in December 2018.


Checking out of the Ancoats Travelodge today at noon, Clive accompanied me on the walk round to Kabana. A busy time, Rizwan was initially dealing with other Takeaway and Delivery customers.

It was soon Hector’s turn. Two separate portions of Karahi Lamb were carefully packed. Rizwan offered me the – foliage – also, but these I can do at home.

The Bill

£12.00    Is this the first ever Glasgow-bound Takeaway from Kabana?

The Curry was not to be eaten tonight, but Sunday when Marg heads north for a couple of days.

Interlude

Late night munchies are inevitable on these trips. This week’s visits to delhi2go are blogged already. Al-Faisal Tandoori, the daytime fallback when Kabana is closed, still advertise themselves as being open until the small hours. They are not. Two Curry venues, either side of the Ancoats Travelodge, are open late: Chilli’s and Golden Tandoori.

Golden Tandoori predates delhi2go; during Covid, they ripped out their seats to create a Takeaway only. Only two tables have been re-installed. I have not been back since Covid. Chilli’s, I have been inside to study, but as yet have not bought Curry. Again, seating is limited there. Next time in Manchester, but Rizwan has also reminded me I have still not been down to Lahori Karahi. Even Hector has his limits.

Sunday Dinner

I weighed the two portions of Karahi Lamb, a kilo, impressive. One went in the freezer.

The reheating of the Karahi was done on the hob, slowly, so as to let the heat permeate the Meat. There was enough Masala that the contents of the pot were not going to dry out. Never use a microwave, the Salt goes ballistic, destroying the Flavour.

*

The – foliage – had to be prepared: diced Ginger, sliced, large Green Chillies and copious Coriander. Fried Rice with Peas and Mushrooms would provide further Diversity.

Thus the Karahi Lamb was suitably dressed.

Wonderful! The Seasoning registered first on the palate, strangely the Cloves were last to do so. The Lamb was up to its usual outstanding level of quality, the careful reheating had paid off. All the usual Kabana Flavours were there. The temptation of having portion #2 had to be resisted.  The joy that the eating of this Curry brings, has to be experienced, to be believed.  And I now have another tucked away!

The first Kabana post for 2023 stated – One Cannot Improve Upon Perfection. Today, the Curry remained – perfect – but with the extra Vegetables mixed through the Rice, perhaps the Hector achieved this. Wow! Wow! and  thrice – Wow!

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Manchester – Kabana – Hector creates a “Fish Karahi” – and it goes up to “11”

Day #4 in Manchester, if anyone thinks these trips are not demanding, then read the previous posts. After an explicable 38 hours without Curry, Hector arrived at a quiet Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England) at 14.00, the lunchtime rush was over. What to have?

It would have been easy to simply once again have the consistently wonderful Karahi Lamb. From the depths of the imagination came:

Rizwan, I fancy some Fish (£4.80), with sauce, on Rice (£1.50)?

I can do that – was the positive reply.

I took a seat mid-room, a handful of solo diners occupied other tables. As ever, they would be recycled, there was the usual steady stream of Takeaway customers. Where does the Curry go, back to the office?

It was back in 2016 when I had my first experience of the Fried Fish at Kabana. Then, Rizwan described it as being typically served with Salad. I asked for Rice too, as Ballast, plus some Sauce, for moisture. As much as it was enjoyed, even to the point of – recommendation – surprisingly, I have not had the Fish at Kabana since.

Today, Hector was having – the works – and more, as events would transpire.

Fried Fish on Rice, with Salad, minimal Masala

A large piece of Coley (I asked) in Batter sat atop the Rice. Around the periphery was Salad (£0.50), Spiced Onions and Raita. The light coloured Masala, less than in 2017, had come from the Mixed Veg pot, I assumed. There’s more.

The three pots were brought to the table, Hector would have his – foliage – sliced Green Chillies, Diced Ginger and abundant Coriander.

Before I had the opperchancity to tuck in, the proceedings were interrupted. Mags sat down with Rice and Three. Not Hector’s thing, and today, no review or comments.

Rice and Three

With Hector’s plate fully dressed, it was time.

The Fish was impressively – ThickCod is what I believed at the time, Scottish Haddock ain’t like this. The Fish retained its integrity but broke up into flakes easily with the fork. This was a Texture I really liked.

Size matters, and this was a satisfyingly large piece of Fish. One couldn’t help but think back to the insulting portion served recently at Travancore (Aberdeen). The Coley had retained it moistness, which was complemented by the Raita and wet Salad Vegetables. The Batter was suitably Spiced and gave off plenty of Flavour as did, wait for it – the Coley itself! Fish that tastes of Fish, not to be taken for granted.

Bursting with Flavour – was noted, but as I realised last time, this was not a Fish Curry. What to do?

More Masala was required, significantly more. The light coloured Masalas from the Mixed Veg or Chicken would not guarantee the impact I sought. There was only one thing for it, Hector approached the counter once more:

Rizwan, can I have a bowl of Masala from the (boneless) Karahi Lamb, please?

Moments later this was being poured over the Fish & Rice. This creation now looked like – Curry.

The Masala gave a boost of heat to the contents of the plate. The Spice Level was also increased, and this was after I had been tackling the Green Chillies. This was a definite – Wow! – moment, the best of both worlds.

The intensity of Flavour from the Fish had not diminished, the (Lamb) Masala simply turned it up a notch, to – eleven!

The next ten minutes or so was Curry Heaven. I could eat the Karahi Lamb (on-the-bone) here every day, finally, I have an alternative. Fish in a Meat infused Masala, they’ll throw Hector out The Brownies for this.

As happens here occasionally, I was beaten by the quantity of Rice.

If permitted, I shall certainly be having this again. Alternatively, Rizwan may accept the challenge and produce a comparable Fish Karahi. With – Curry – this good, who needs Lamb?

The Bill

£8.30    Worth every penny.

The Aftermath

Quality Fish Curry is so hard to get, your Fish was wonderful – I assured Rizwan.

It was at this point I was told that the Fish was – Coley.

Coley, sources say, is a member of the Pollock family, or Saithe in Scotland. Saithe, is the only Fish I have ever caught (Islay, 1976), unless Curryspondent Neil knows differently. Saithe, I encountered in Oranienburg as Rotbarschfilet (Coal Fish) and found it to be particularly tasty, a pity about the rest of the Curry.

I have found a contradictory source which claims that Coley is a cousin of Cod – a cheaper substitute. I have never been a fan of Cod, as cooked by Mother, the Texture of Coley way better. This I shall be enquiring about in future at Asian grocers.

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Manchester – Lahori Badsha – Jolly Good Karahi!

Today took some planning, a kilo of Lamb Karahi requires company. Steve, Mags and Clive agreed to join Hector at Lahori Badsha (140 Cheetham Hill Rd, Manchester, England M8 8PZ). One kilo not enough, two kilos too much? Fortunately, Josh texted to say he and Steph would join us, a perfect six for two kilos?

An Uber took us up Cheetham Hill Rd for the 13.15 rendezvous. Josh and Steph, Curry-Heute debutants, arrived on schedule. Our party of six took the second long table of four.

A young chap brought the well worn menu, no price increases here for a while. I was pleased to see the Fresh Lamb Karahi (in Lahori Style) per kilo – £25.00.

Two kilos of Lamb Lahori Karahi and six Naans (£1.00) please.

This took him aback. The Order noted, he relayed this to the many chaps busy behind the counter.

Moments later another chap approached.

Two portions or two kilos?

I gestured that we were six. What would two portions do for us?

Salad and Raita were brought to the table, I took these to be complimentary, though they are priced on the menu. Some nibbled, some were patient. A jug of tap water was provided, we only had four glasses, it took the chap a worrying amount of time to rectify this. Same with the cutlery. On receiving a glass of water I took a sip and poured it back in the jug. All did likewise – cold water please.

We settled back for the wait, our Order would take preparation. Hirn Karahi (£32.00) remains an objective for the future. Hirn (Venison) will have to be tried. One never knows, this could be the best Curry on the planet.

Meanwhile back in Scotland, Darvel has been put on the map, lots of coverage of the events there last night. For those who know, it brought a big smile to many in the West of Scotland. Then there was the great water shortage in Glasgow after a water main burst. Well, a water shortage apart from the flooded streets near Auchenhowie. A good day to be in Manchester. Flooding at Auchenhowie, drought in Ibrox, conspiracy!

Our seating arrangement meant Hector would be sharing with Josh and Steph, whilst Steve, Clive and Mags would have the other Karahi. I assumed two separate karahi would be presented. When the first arrived, Mags wasn’t sure if this was to be shared by six.

The pile of Naans arrived together, quite an achievement. But then there were seven staff behind the counter at any given time. The Naans had been perforated – to stop them rising – I informed Steph who I felt had to know. Decent Naans, I managed around two thirds, some would go to my right later for mopping up.

Lamb Lahori Karahi

Authentic Karahi, the Masala reveals all. Tomato based with some Yoghurt stirred in. The Masala looked – grey. Mags mentioned – Namkeen – almost immediately, it wasn’t, but was maybe not far off in terms of Flavour, Peppery, man!

Ladies first, three good portions were taken with enough left to top up, as and when. My Karahi companions appeared to avoid the Bones, novices. The Meat was beautiful, no Sucky Bones, so my lack of butcher knowledge means I cannot identify from where the Meat came.

Josh was quick to comment on the quality of the Meat, admitting that Lamb is not his usual go to for Curry.

The Lamb is falling apart.

Steph confirmed that Lamb is always the better option. Has she ever had a Fish Curry?

The Seasoning was spot on, the Spice Level was perfectly pitched. I had assured everyone that they would not serve something that we could not all manage. The sliced, large Green Chillies, added extra bite, the Ginger Strips, another dimension to the overall Flavour. Our karahi had only smears of Oil/Ghee, though I did note that our neighbours had a slick in the centre of theirs.

On going back for more, there was confirmation that the days of two sharing a kilo are behind us. Had we only been four today, we would have struggled.

Steph and Josh were brief with their verdicts:

Authentic – and – Spectacular – respectively. Mags:

Lovely, tender Lamb. Spicy, peppery, almost like a White Karahi. Steve:

It was perfectly spiced and seasoned, meat was tender. Clive:

Absolutely the right level of spicing, extremely tender Lamb, one sliver of bone.

Six contented diners, a chap popped his head over the high part of the counter, I asked if he was the Chef. Appreciation expressed, he agreed to have his photo taken.

Our exit was prolonged. Previously, Lahori Badsha was cash only, today cards were being taken. No – Bill – actually came, Hector did the sums, wrongly initially, we were six not four. The young chap at the till was well confused too.

The Bill

£56.00 A tenner a head for this feast, excellent.

The Aftermath

I was busy chatting to Chef and outlining Curry-Heute. It is some years since I gave the first Calling Card, Lahori Badsha now qualifies to be included in – Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses, and have their own dedicated page.

Steve was charged £28.00 on his card, to rectify this, eighteen quid in cash was handed back. It was much later that Clive realised he had paid £16.00. Being unable to see the machine, he had to take the word of the chap that he was paying a tenner. Jolly bad show.

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Manchester – delhi2go – Midnight Curry

Anyone fancy a Curry? – was Hector’s hourly mantra throughout the afternoon. Despite the feast earlier this afternoon at Lahori Badsha, everyone knew that Chef Rashid at delhi2go (119 Oldham St., Manchester M4 1LN England) was cooking Lamb Achari (£9.99) for us.

Us? Hector anyway, and anyone else who would come.

Six of us arrived at delhi2go at 23.40, four entered. Neil and Howard weren’t hungry, Mags was having something – not Curry, leaving Clive and Steve to accompany Hector. Three felt like a respectable number.

As with last night, it was the kitchen staff who recognised us on entry. Rashid had the Order confirmed, Three Naans (£1.99) would accompany. No Drinks, not even the offer of tap water.

Damien, who usually – does the sauces – was the only front of house staff member I knew, tonight he was in and out dealing with deliveries.

During the Covid era, delhi2go cleared out their crockery and cutlery. It is somewhat infra dig to eat from a foil container with a plastic fork. Such is the way it is, I suppose we were mostly eating with our fingers anyway. The Naans looked a bit peely wally but were quite decent. There had been some rising of the dough despite the large perforations across their middle. Should I start asking for my Naan to be – not perforated? At least they were served – whole.

Lamb Acahari

The dark brown Masala looked vicious. With sliced Green Chillies on top, and an extra pot of Chillies provided, there was going to be nothing bland about this Curry.  The slice of Lemon was squeezed, a bit of Citrus always enhances a Curry.

The Meat count was into double figures, but had been cut small compared to what we have been served this week at Kabana and Lahori Badsha. Any notion that there wasn’t enough was soon dispensed with.

The Big Pickle Blast was there, this Curry was full on. The ladies on this trip keep reminding me that when they order Curry at delhi2go they find it too Spicy. This was one of Rashid’s – Specials, so no holding back. Seasoning can take a back seat when having Achari, if one can tolerate this level of intensity of Flavour, then go for it.

There were sounds of approval coming from my left. At 0014, Clive uttered a – Wow! That’s quite a rare event. Steve declared – pretty good. When Chef came out to take his bow, this was raised to – Bloody good!

Stunning, fantastic! – was Clive’s further contribution.

Being the Hector, there was a moment of reality. I asked why we couldn’t have proper plates and cutlery:

We don’t do that now – was the reply.

Tea has to be drunk from a china cup, Curry is best enjoyed on a plate, when not eating directly from a karahi.

Still, we evidently enjoyed what was served.

Remember, Wednesday is Chef Rashid’s day off.

The Bill

£35.94 After the phantom cola was removed. Were they out to get us in Manchester today?

The Aftermath

Until next year? Trains permitting, we might get back down the West Coast Line again this year. There is one certainty, no Curry for Hector tomorrow, or was that Curry-Heute?

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Manchester – Kabana – First Stop in Manchester

Traditionally, this is the week of the Manchester Real Ale Festival. For reasons Covid, it has not been held for the last two years, and the organisers weren’t ready for this year. Undeterred – The Company – have descended on this fine city, ten of us so far, potentially six more to come. There will be a lot of Curry this week, and maybe a Bier or ten also.

First stop on arriving in Manchester is always Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England). Despite spotting Rizwan, Mein Host, briefly outside as I approached at 14.20, he was not behind the counter as I entered. His able assistant greeted and served up the favourite Karahi Lamb on-the-bone (£6.00) and Fried Rice (£1.50). Usually, Rizwan has me take a seat and he brings the necessaries. Today I watched the Karahi being carefully arranged on the Rice. Twice I thought – that’s it – twice, more was added. I was taken back to my five years of Boarding at the West of Scotland’s finest and only co-educational establishment. I used to rage at certain ladies who were able to count the Chips as they served them, shaking what they thought was too many, off the serving scoop. Those were lean days. Today I had a veritable plateful.

Of course, that’s not the end of the process. The – foliage – has to be added, the Ginger adds crunch, the sliced Green Chillies up the – kick – whilst the forest of Coriander simply adds to the overall pleasure.

Taking my seat in the near empty restaurant, people were still coming for Takeaway. There was a chap sitting who I made eye content with. There was an acknowledgement, but why did I recognise him? If Herr Battra (Indian Mango, München) has a twin African brother, this was he.

The glory of the blended Masala, the outstanding quality of the Lamb, have been described oft. Every mouthful is such pleasure. One simply feels good eating this. I still wonder why not everyone is having this.

I worked my way through steadily, no Sucky Bones today. I arranged the debris on the edge of the plate. Not all of the Lamb was on-the-bone, loadsa Meat. It’s Monday, Day #1, the appetite is intact. As the week progresses and eating becomes earlier, so I may struggle. Today was just a quiet celebration.

Rizwan appeared, he had been downstairs. What happens down there? He apologised for not having served me. I reminded him that it’s only ten days since he saw me, and that we will be numerous this week; Rizwan will recognise the faces.

But we have other venues to visit.

The final grains of Rice, mission accomplished. The feeling of satisfaction was immeasurable. Karahi Lamb at Kabana, why else would one come to Manchester?

The Bill

£7.50 Why spend three times as much at posh establishments?

The Aftermath

I watched a Takeaway foil tray being filled as I chatted with Rizwan. I thought Glasgow Takeaways were large. What would happen if I took one on the train home?

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Manchester – delhi2go – Late Night Nosh

Howard arranged the Über from Society back to Ancoats, three of us found ourselves in delhi2go (119 Oldham St., Manchester M4 1LN England). Having had Kabana Curry already today, a Half Pound Cheese Burger (£5.99) was Hector’s mission. I explained to Mags that I saw no need to pay more for the 6oz Gourmet Burgers. Clive ordered a Kebap of some description, all of were having Takeaway.

There was a wave from the kitchen doorway, Hector was recognised, it has been a while, the front of house chaps have all changed. Moments later, Chef Rashid came out to greet. As has become the custom, he offered to cook for us.

Somehow I found myself ordering Lamb Achari for an undeclared number of diners late tomorrow night. It sounded like a good idea, the only problem, Mags, Clive and Steve had already agreed to join Hector for Karahi at Lahori Badsha tomorrow lunchtime. Curry twice in a day? Wednesday would have been the better option, alas that is Rashid’s day off. So it goes.

The Bill

£5.99   I had free choice of Salad toppings, Spiced Onions was Hector’s choice.

Moments later, back at the room, the Burger was fully appreciated. Not a huge amount of Meat as it happens, a tasty late night snack, time for sleep.  Does Hector dream about Curry?

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Glasgow – Hujra Restaurant – Charsi Karahi, served in the Drawing Room

Curryspondent Neil made Hector aware of the opening of Hujra Restaurant (337 Paisley Rd W, Glasgow G51 1LU) towards the end of last year. Curry Houses at this locale have not done so well in the era of Curry-Huete. The adjacent Schawarma Grill, which occupies the former site of the The Clachan Bar, must dominate this stretch opposite Cessnock Subway Station, however they do not serve Curry. The signage at Hujra contains the magic words – Charsi Karahi.

After Monday’s dubious Afghani Cuisine at Jinnah (Harrogate), it was something of a self-fulfilling prophecy that Hector made his way to Hujra this afternoon. By my reckoning, Hujra is Glasgow’s fifth outlet for Afghan Karahi. Namak Mandi was due to move around the corner to larger premises, no sign of that yet.

Hector arrived at Hujra around 14.00, Qudrat, Mein Host, was sitting in the open kitchen beyond the serving counter. Ready Dishes were on display, featuring a mean looking tray of Spinach. I would later establish this as – Aloo Palak – also, Chana (Chickpeas), a choice of. Qudrat stood up to greet.

You do Karahi? – I asked, well if he didn’t there was a fallback, and a lengthy walk.

Is one kilo enough for you?

Having studied the modest menu some time back, I was concerned that Karahi would only be available by the kilo, today I would have taken that if necessary, or pay the premium for the half kilo.

The half kilo was offered and accepted. A Naan (£1.00) would accompany.

Qudrat was keen to let me know this would be Afghani Karahi, I hopefully expressed my appreciation of this (when done properly).

Spicy?

Above medium – was hopefully relayed. I was then put under a bit of pressure to have Rice, presumably the Qabali Rice (£3.50) which I must have had at some incarnation of The Khyber Pass Restaurant. I stuck to my guns, a Naan.

Qudrat pointed to the fridge – help yourself to juice, I will bring salad.

I took a can of Mango Rubicon (£1.00) and went through to the dining area.

Hujra exactly matches Sheerin Palace in scale and layout. With an unrestricted view on to Paisley Rd. West, Hujra is brighter. I chose my spot, and surveyed all. Hujra seats more than twenty, at eight tables. The comfy armchair remains a mystery.

Green Tea, anyone? The menu shows a list of – welcome – items, the Salad included. The laminated menu confirmed Charsi Karahi available by the kilo: Chicken (£18.00) and Lamb (26.00). This is great value for Lamb presently. I also note that some venues are, somewhat cheekily, not differentiating in price between Chicken and Lamb. At this point the price of the half kilo was unknown.

The Salad arrived and remained untouched until the arrival of the main course. An elderly chap took the window table, He had a Naan plus the Aloo Saag/Palak. Is the Hector being haunted by Spinach? I didn’t spot what his bonus component was.

I could hear the usual scraping noises coming from next door, Qudrat gave me a heads up, another five minutes. My Charsi Karahi was thankfully not coming in an instant as it seemed to in Harrogate. A one man show – was nearly the title of this post, but a second staff member arrived, bringing bottles of Water, not Sparkling.

In good time, all was assembled.

The Naan showed a mass of perforations. Not quite – Rogni – it hadn’t turned hard as they tend to do. A dense thickness was therefore achieved, it did the job. In terms of Naan per £, this makes one wonder at the prices charged elsewhere for dough and water.

Lamb Charsi Karahi

Lamb Chops stood proudly, protruding from the mass. Four or five Lamb Chops was a quick estimate. Then I spotted a Sucky Bone and some ribs. All cuts were here. A half kilo with bones, manageable, a half kilo without, madness.

I was going to eat directly from the karahi, however, this would not have revealed the Masala. A plate was provided, even some Salad eventually made its way on here.

The Masala was thin, runny, compared to the Lahori/Punjabi equivalent. What sat before me bore little resemblance to the photo on the menu (right). There was no doubting that the Masala was pulped Tomatoes, and no sign of skins. A quick comparison with the equivalent at Namak Mandi also confirmed this was thin. Unlike comparable venues, here there was no visible Oil collecting.

Unsurprisingly, Tomato was the first Flavour to register. The Seasoning impressed, the Spice Level built up slowly from – moderate, especially when the sliced Green Chillies were encountered. Hot food, I tentatively tackled a Chop … these had not been grilled, so cooked in the proper manner, in advance, then added to the Masala; the only way to produce this in the time permitted. The Meat varied in Texture from soft, through tender, a couple of bits were recorded as – tough. As the bones testified, all cuts here.  I revised the Lamb Chop estimate down to two/three.

Dipping the Naan in the Tomato Sauce proved rewarding. A warming, intensity of Flavour, not depth of, was experienced. This was a simple Sauce, but oh so tasty, despite the hoped for Peppery Flavour being absent. If I had cooked a Tomato Sauce with this much Flavour, well … it was all about the Seasoning.

Qudrat checked on my progress. Tasty – was an early verdict. I had to demonstrate my knowledge:

Do you make Namkeen?

The answer was in the affirmative, however, Qudrat reckoned that he would be left with it in the fridge for some three days. Fresh food is the plan.

I ate on. Each mouthful felt like a reward for the mouth. Charsi – today’s was a minimalist interpretation. Original Khyber serve a similar Tomato Masala, Khyber Pass Restaurant has the much loved Pepperiness and a thicker Masala. Different Chefs, different styles, take your pick.

The Bill

£15.00   Fantastic value, no premium being charged for preparing the half kilo.

The Aftermath

Introductions were made, the Calling Card issued. We discussed the Afghan competitors, Qudrat is aware of these. Time will tell if this is a cursed location. To the west, Chilli Cottage is still going strong. Eight years since the one and only visit? Can I face Nihari? It’s that or Chicken. Maybe things have changed?

*

*

2023 Menu

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Harrogate – Jinnah Restaurant – A Monday Night Curry

Harrogate? Marg and Hector appear to be repeating January 2022 in reverse. This is the final stop, fourth night only, feels like a week already. Bettys Tearoom was visited once again, the most expensive Tea in the North, possibly. There Marg had lunch, Hector was saving the appetite for real food.

Had it not been a Monday, Hector’s choice for Harrogate Curry would once again have been Shalimar. Whilst I was not convinced as to the efficacy of the – Afghani – element of their – Afghani Karahi – as a – Karahi – it certainly impressed.

If it’s a Monday in Harrogate, then maybe it has to be Jinnah Restaurant (32 Cheltenham Parade, Harrogate HG1 1DB England). Authentic Kashmiri Cuisine – is their tagline, however, under the classification – Medium Homestyle Specialities – they too serve Lamb Afghani (£12.95). A Curry fit for Royalty, allegedly. It had to be established if this Dish was fit for a Hector.

I note that the Curry immediately above it on the menu is – Nawabi Khana – the Curry I chose last night at International (Bradford). The menu here also quotes – twenty one – as being a key number of Spices/ingredients. A quick look at T’internet, and this appears to be a common thread, a case of chuck in every Spice in the cupboard?

We arrived at Jinnah, a converted kirk, at 18.30. Can kirks be converted or just their parishioners? Correspondingly, the venue is huge.

A large group occupied half of the central seating area, we were led up to the right, to the rear of a line of booths. Jinnah must seat well over a hundred, tonight we were around forty. Impressive for a Monday, but then Shalimar was closed today.

Marg would have a Prawn Puri (£5.95), Hector’s choice of accompaniment was a Plain Nan (£2.95). A 750ml bottle of Harrogate Sparkling Water (£5.50) completed the Order. Pricey water, had it come far?

The service was efficient, the chap seemed a bit surprised when we were ready to order so quickly. Having the Puri arrive at the same time as the Afghani was requested.

Arrive together they did, and a bit too quickly for my liking. Having watched and waited for authentic Afghan Karahi being prepared in Glasgow at both Khyber Pass Restaurant and Namak Mandi, it cannot be done in ten to fifteen minutes.

The Naan, which looks here like a magic carpet, had the suitable burnt blisters, was sufficiently risen, and was nearly devoured in its entirety. A decent Naan.

Prawn Puri

With the Prawns well into double figures, and a suitably viscous Masala, this was a classic Puri. Well, the actual Puri was sufficiently large to make a meal in its own right. Who would have this as a Starter followed by a Main Course?

I must have a go at making a Puri. Given that the Bread is fried, my lack of skill on a Tawa would not be a hindrance.

*

Lamb Afghani

That the contents only half filled the pot was the first negative observation. The garnish included the dreaded Capsicum, this time in Red. Just how much of this lay below? I discarded a couple of strips, the remainder appeared to be Ginger Strips, Onion and Tomato. This Curry had very much the appearance of a Jalfrezi.

I had the choice, decant so that I could count the Meat and better see the Masala, or eat directly from the pot and hopefully keep the food hot/warm. It’s January, I chose the latter. It was also dimly lit where we sat, so I could not see the Masala initially. At least I could tell it was not – Soupy.

Tomato was the standout Flavour at the start, a low level of Seasoning disappointed. The Spice Level was quoted as – medium – it certainly was. The Lamb was suitably Tender and the ratio of Meat to Masala was equitable. The traditional Bread accompaniment was the correct choice.

I waited, hoped for, that distinct Flavour which sets Afghani Cuisine apart from my commonly devoured Punjabi interpretation. Charsi – this was not. As with Shalimar, I have to ask in what was this an Afghan Curry?

The underlying Flavour was decidedly familiar. Oftentimes I recognise, but cannot identify. Tonight it quickly dawned on me, this was a very much in the style of Rogan Josh served in the decades before it became a Creamier Curry. A watered down Rogan Josh – was added to my notes.

Determined to examine the Masala further, with a bit of balancing, I managed to secure a photo on the new Oppo. The Masala was Thicker than I had previously realised, redder too, Tomato-based? As I looked across the table to the Prawn Puri, I could not see much difference between the two Red Masalas. Hopefully there was.

When Neil introduced me to Rogan Josh around 1980, it became the go-to Curry for many years. I therefore enjoyed tonight’s Curry for how it actually tasted, not for what it was meant to be.

I feel a return visit to one of Glasgow’s Afghan Restaurants is imminent.

Marg enquired about milky coffee, only filter was on offer, declined.

The Bill

£27.35

The Aftermath

On receipt of the Calling Card, the waiter did not show much reaction. It was clearly not passed up the chain to a superior. As we departed, he did say he was looking forward to reading my review. Well, here it is!

2023 Menu

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Bradford – International – 3½ Years of The Next Generation

The first/only Bradford Curry of the day was at 23.00? Back in the day, this could well have been the third. The distraction was Sunday lunch at Old Gate in Hebden Bridge, there the roast beef dinner is to be recommended. A worthy plateful, featuring Yorkshire pudding, of course, lashings of gravy, plus mash, roast potatoes, mashed turnip, sage&onion, green beans, cauliflower, broccoli and mange tout. Hector will admit to having none of the latter, Marg ate it all.

An afternoon enjoying the delights of Halifax followed, thereafter a train back to Bradford. From Bradford Interchange, it was straight to International (40-42 Morley Street, Bradford, BD7 1BA). For a significant time, we were the only customers. What has happened in this city? As midnight approached, two groups of diners arrived, more like it.

The lack of custom meant a lot of staff not doing very much. Quasim would look after us. A bit like last night at Sheesh Mahal where Hector had but a Starter, Marg was only hungry enough for something similar, not a main course. Lamb Chops (£6.95) and a Mango Lassi (£2.75) would be her limit. The Lassi was justified thus:

I’ve got to watch you eat a whole Curry. I’ve got to make it enjoyable as I can.

For the record, a small bottle of Sparkling Water is £2.50, so one may as well indulge in Lassi.

Hector required a Curry which ticked all the boxes. This could well be my last opperchancity on this trip to have the full bhuna. A well known and reliable Curry Blog led me back to Lamb Nawabi Khan (£12.95), tried and tested.

I did briefly consider the Desi Lamb (on-the-bone) option, but a half kilo at £17.95 could prove to be too much Curry. I do congratulate International for holding the full kilo to £27.95, it’s a fiver more than this anywhere I have encountered in recent times.

To complete the Order, a Garlic Coriander Naan (£3.50), Tap Water was also promised.

We played the Poppadom game.

Are you giving or selling?

The result no Poppadoms. Under the previous management, Complimentary – everything – was the norm, inclusive Chapattis/Naan/Rice also. One could go across the street to The Kashmir Restaurant where these traditions have been maintained. Perhaps that’s where the rest of Bradford was this evening? I have not had an evening Curry at Kashmir since I taught A-Level Geography. Bradford was en route, my choice, to the locus of the in-service days held near York. That was some twenty five years ago. 

We had asked for all the food to arrive simultaneously, inevitably, the Lamb Chops arrived first.

Lamb Chops

Five! Sensational value. And they were nearly cremated. In a moment of sensibility, I declined a Lamb Chop, unheard of. Who wants to become Mr. Creosote? This meant five Lamb Chops for Marg, which must be discouraged, however, the precedent has been set.

Five, succulent Chops, with carbon-infused bones. I thoroughly enjoyed gnawing my way through the meat and bone.

I also enjoyed the Garlic & Coriander Naan accompaniment.

Yes Hector’s Curry and Naan had arrived. I invited Marg to help herself to some Naan, I didn’t think I would have to claim dibs on the final scraps. The Naan was a decent size, or so I originally thought. The burnt blisters were present. It had risen a bit but not enough to put Marg off. There was no Garlic saturation which is what I fear.

At this point, Quasim noticed we had no Water on the table and that the Mango Lassi had not appeared. Cancel the Lassi, Water was quickly provided.

Lamb Nawabi Khana

The Coriander Topping was but a threat. The karahi was filled to the brim with an inestimable quantity of Bradford-sized Meat. With just enough Masala to make this a – Curry – I emphasise that there was a lot of Meat here. Who needs a half kilo on-the-bone?

Cough! This hit the spot. With sliced Green Chillies cooked in, there was no denying, this was – Spicy! The distinctive Bradford Curry Taste was there, Methi is the ingredient which is believed to be responsible.

Two small slices of Lemon had also been added, these were squeezed on to the minimal Masala. A bit of Lemon can add even more of a thrill to the Flavours hitting the palate.

Tender Meat, it is written oft, this was something else. I gave Marg a piece for confirmation. The Lamb was super-soft yet far from being pulp.  Each piece retained the integrity of its shape, yet … one could have sucked this rather than chew. Squeezing between tongue and top palate was quite sufficient, mastication hardly required. Now add the appreciation that this Meat was permeable and had soaked in the Flavours from the Masala. This is what people who order a Chicken Curry can never experience. The properties of this Curry made it stand out way above that which is served in Mainstream Restaurants.

Whilst this Curry was truly outstanding, my only regret is that, in time, the Chillies eventually numbed the palate. Subtle, this Curry was not. Prior to this, however, it was as if the individual Spice powders were shouting – here I am!

If one seeks a blunderbuss of Flavour and Spice, the Lamb Nawabi Khan has to be tried.

Quasim was back once more checking on our progress/enjoyment. I described the eating of the Meat. The conversation developed, no this was not our first visit etc.

That I do not give marks out of ten for either a Curry or a Curry House was finally accepted. Where is the best in Bradford? Well probably still not here, though once upon a time Hector had a near orgasmic moment in these very premises, ergo the best Curry I’ve ever had. I introduced myself, and mentioned the halcyon days of Khalid and Ali.

International was closed for some months in 2018. I made it clear that when The Next Generation took over, the quality of the Fayre nosedived. Standards have improved markedly in recent visits, though not always the service, as recorded last visit. There are some Dishes that are missed. We had just discovered Shahi Kofta when International closed. Scroll through the photographic record of all consumed here.

The Bill

£23.40       No Lassi, no tip.

The Aftermath

I believe the word had got round that a food blogger was present, smiles aplenty. I did insist that there was a photo with Quasim. It is time to record The Next Generation making their mark.

There is now a second International, but not within walking distance of the city centre.

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Bradford – The Kashmir Restaurant – 364 Days Later

And so to Bradford. I cannot believe it’s a year since the last visit. Why did nobody say – let’s have a trip to Bradford – in the course of 2022? Bradford for Curry, Halifax and Hebden Bridge for Bier, always a worthwhile experience.

We arrived at The Kashmir Restaurant (27 Morley St, Bradford BD7 1AG England) at 14.10. The usual chap smiled warmly as we entered the downstairs dining room, hands were shaken, he knew it has been a while. With our luggage parked at the far wall we took the corresponding seats, around half of the tables were otherwise occupied.

The laminated menu was brought, prices have gone up some 20% since my last visit, an increase comparable to what I have observed across the land in the last year. Curry in a Bradford Curry Cafe has now crossed the £10.00 barrier. Poppadoms (3), Raita and a modest Salad were brought in a flash, as Curry-Heute campaigns they should be in all restaurants.

Marg mentioned – Korma – which she must have spotted in a part of the menu I wasn’t looking at. Was it a – Desi Korma? Apparently – Cream and Coconut – were quoted, so no. The – Pineapple – in the Meat Dansak (£10.50) interested Marg. Different. Hector was here for Curry only – Fish Karahi (£11.90).

Three Chapattis are included with each main course. Six Chapattis? – a challenge. If one needs more, they’re 50p each.

Marg asked if the Meat was – Lamb.

Mutton was the reply. Marg asked for – medium. On asking for – above medium – I was told:

I’ll make it -Asian style – for you.

I must remember to ask for – Asian style – in all future visits to Bradford Curry Houses.

Complimentary Poppadoms always taste better than those where ridiculous prices are charged. The Raita stood out, a fair wee kick in there. The Onions I would later add to my Fish Karahi. I like the added crunch of fresh Onions. We managed two Poppadoms before the Curry arrived.

Six Chapattis, between us we would just about manage five. These were of the thin, traditional variety, which I prefer to the Wholemeal. These are merely more than vehicles of transferring food from plate to mouth.

*

*

Meat Dansak

This is a new Curry to add to the list of all those covered at Kashmir. There was more Masala than I associate with Bradford Curry. The Masala was distinctly dark brown. With Herbs mixed through, it was difficult to identify this Masala as containing – Lentils – especially when one compares it to their Keema Dahl.

There was a visible presence of (tinned) Pineapple stirred into the Meat and Masala, Marg likes – sweet – and so this was right up her street:

Very tender Lamb (Mutton), in a rich, strong flavoured sauce, minimal, with characteristic pieces of pineapple adding to the flavour. It was a lovely rich gravy, maybe – earthy.

I dipped my spoon in the Masala, fine as it was – nowhere near as intense as was on my plate.

Fish Karahi

The abundant flaked Fish sat in an oily Masala rich in Tomato. This too was relatively – wet – for a Bradford Curry, it’s how they do it here, and it certainly works.

The Fish, which seemed to go on forever, tasted of – Fish! The Masala tasted of – Fish. The Curry tasted of – Fish! This should be bleeding obvious, so why can so few venues across the land achieve this?

The Fish Karahi arrived – hot – again something one cannot take for granted. The Spice and Seasoning were commensurate with quality Curry. This week began with a Tapas portion of Kerala Monkfish in Glasgow, which was tasteless in comparison to this. At the end, the sense of Fish had permeated every taste bud. This was a Fish Karahi, a Bradford Fish Karahi!

The Bill

£22.40    Cash only.

The Aftermath

More smiles from the staff as we departed. They know we’ll come back, but when?

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