A day in Köln, the only one planned for 2024. Having been other places this year, cramming in the annual rituals is currently underway. As with yesterday at Madina (Düsseldorf), the plan was to avoid Mainstream German Curry Houses. Back in 2022, Marg and Hector visited Anna Lakshmi Restaurant (Thieboldsgasse 101, 50676 Köln, Deutschland), the Fish Curry Masala (€10.00), served as part of a Thali, proved to be a worthy meal. There was a declared intention to return for the Lamb Filet Curry (€10.00).
As I approached Lakshmi, I spotted another Curry outlet on the parallel street, not previously known. Chai & Coffee turned out to have the full Mainstream menu. Desi Food Indian Restaurant – it proudly claimed. I saw nothing to convince me that was so.
Vielleicht eines Tages…
Entering Lakshmi at 12.40, the aroma of burnt Spice hung in the air, a classic sign of Sri Lankan fayre. Anna was sitting in the far corner, the single diner was finishing his Thali. The menu was already on the table, same as 2022, no price increase. How many Curry Houses have not increased their prices in the last year, never mind nearly two?
On the assumption that Lamm Cutlet (€14.00) could be even better, I asked for this. Nein. Lamm Filet Curry it would be. A half litre bottle of Sparkling Water (€2.00) completed the Order. The conversation, mostly one way, so maybe not strictly speaking a conversation, was in Deutsch. Anna manifestly has less English than Hector has Deutsch.
As ever, there was time to take in the surroundings. A Curry Cafe would be an appropriate description, there’s nothing grand enough here to meet the definition of – restaurant. The décor is old, worn, tired. Maybe they’ll give the place a makeover when the prices inevitably rise.
On visit #1 I spent my time trying to see into the kitchen. Maybe this was here then, maybe not, if so, how did I miss it? What appeared to be part of the tail section of a Luftwaffe Flugzeug was hanging from the ceiling. Nice.
Anna brought the food. On anticipating the need for – Scharf – she said she would bring something which sounded like – apple sauce.
Lamb Filet Curry
As is ever the case in Europe, the Basmati was the dominant feature on the tray. The Curry was decidedly Lamb Shorva, as thin and watery as a Masala could be.
The Lamb had been cut Bradford-small, the quantity was therefore difficult to judge. The Hector was not about to go hungry, there was a fair pile of food here.
The piece of Poppadom was set aside, there were more interesting things to deal with. Top right was the same watery Daal as served in visit #1. Centre, an Aloo portion with the same Shorva as the Lamb. Indeed, there was a sizeable piece of Potato in with the Lamb Curry, so an Aloo Gosht then. Finally, what I took last time to be – Tarka – if it was not Onion based then I know not what this was. However, the first Soupçon of the – Tarka – immediately impressed, this was the source of the most potent Flavour on the tray.
The accompanying small bowl had another version of the – Spicy Sod – plus pieces of Green Chilli just in case that wasn’t deadly enough, more Tarka, then Yoghurt, the means of diffusing the situation. Spice Level could be adjusted, with care, to one’s own desire.
With the Lamb Curry spread across the left hand side of the Basmati, the Shorva mostly disappeared. That which remained, bottom left, would take patience to relocate. There was enough to confirm that the Seasoning here was definitely low. Having already established that this was not the major source of Flavour before me, I was left to wonder. In 2003, Marg and Hector toured Sri Lanka. Curry three times a day was the Hector plan, reduced to two because even this Curry-hound had his limits. I became used to the rich, powerful burnt Spice and Coconut Flavour that prevails across that nation. This Lamm Curry came nowhere near the level of expectation.
Whole Spices, a Bay/Curry Leaf was the only solid other than the Meat. Whilst the Lamb was Tender towards chewy it was giving back no more than just its meatiness. The Oily Shorva with the Lamb and the Potato both had the same bitterness. Seasoning remained the major issue. The overall Flavours were no more than – gentle. Time for a new approach, if it’s good enough for Clive…
The hardly touched Daal, I’ll eat it, but rarely do, was arranged over the remaining Meat. A Daal Gosht was thus created. Better, marginally.
Cold food, an inevitability, spoiled the end game. I prefer a plate to a metal tray.
There was nothing here not to like, it simply could have, should have, been so much more.
The Bill
€12.00 (£10.11) Cash only.
The Aftermath
I had to ask about the tail-plane. If I understood correctly, it came from what was the bar next door. So how did it get there?
Lakshmi is a four minute walk from one of Hector’s favourite Köln watering holes – Reissdorf – where we were meeting at 14.00. How did that happen?
2024 Menu
It is six years since the last Curry-Heute post from the city of 
The S Bahn took me from Hauptbahnhof to Bilk, two stops. With an arcade on both sides of the road, – the blue dot – was struggling to differentiate. Bürgerhaus Bilk proved to be the correct one, and no, the Hector was not entering a Burger House, though a few Frikadelle may be consumed on this trip. It was 12.40 when instinct took me up the escalator to the arcade eatery. 
Number 7, Chalau Qurme Gosht was described as being served with Rice and featuring Veal. With the food in kettles and on display, I watched those in front of me have their orders plated. There was no avoiding the Euro Rice portion. Two Rices were being given. Meat Rice – is what it sounded like when it became my turn. Why not, it looked tastier than the plain Basmati. In addition to the Meat, the Chalau Qurme had Chana and Kidney Beans in the Shorva. This inevitably reduced the meat content, but this was still quite a plateful, for not very much.
There was ample seating to be had, and many other options from which to choose. This would be a good place to bring someone who wasn’t bothered about having – Curry. There is wi-fi in the mall, use it, the phone signal is otherwise non existent. 
The contents of the right side of the plate were spooned on to the left. A Soupçon of the Spicy Sod was mixed through. Spice Level was not going to be an issue, steady on, Hector. The Seasoning in the Shorva was spot on. The Meaty Rice gave a blast of Clove, familiar territory. Fruit, a Sultana or two, also adding more Flavour. The strips of Carrot raised a smile, exactly what does a Carrot add to a Curry, no point asking anyone at 
Spice, Seasoning, an array of Flavours and Textures, this was proving to be an enjoyable meal, despite being nothing like the Desi Korma that was hoped for. Chili Con Carne meets Goulasch may be an apt description. There was sufficient moisture that all of the Rice remained interesting. The Hector managing every grain of Rice in a Euro portion? Most unusual. 
Downstairs is chocolate heaven, ice-cream too. I know someone who would be amused here.
And so the rain continues, the second day of meteorological autumn and the Hector is still waiting for summer. Maybe, continental Europe can provide warmth and blue skies. Watch this space. 
On 
I had previously initially ignored the QR Code on the menu, it can be revealed that there are Daily Specials, today’s included: Lamb and Potato Curry (£9.50) served in the traditional – Shorba, Saag (£8.00), and a Chicken Karahi (£10.00) served on-the-bone. Furthermore, extra detail for the Dishes on the printed menu, the description here describes the Chicken Korma (8.50) as having – a thick and delicious gravy. This makes the Hector think – Desi Korma – and not the ubiquitous Cream & Coconut version. Contains Milk – enhances this thought. Mmmm?
The wait was an appropriate twenty minutes during which the waitress returned to discuss the Spice Level. 
The first sight of the food confirmed the Hector would need no more. 
You don’t get this in Mainstream Curry Houses, this Curry looked spectacular. The menu gives no clue, but as with the 
Decanting the Lamb and the Potatoes, the ratio was half and half. The pricing was therefore realistic, fair, reflecting the lesser quantity of Meat. Still, there was enough, no complaints here. The Potato pieces had clearly absorbed the Spices. The Masala was dark with specks of Herb, thick, viscous, magnificent. Desi/Apna was written all over this Curry. 
The sensation of the Masala on the palate was wonderful, smooth, velvet. The Seasoning was there, the Spice Level was no more than – medium. Next time – extra Desi – for the Hector. 
The scaffolding has gone!
Vini was there to greet as we entered at 14.00. I took what has become my usual spot in the corner at the window. For thirty minutes we were the only diners. Their Dal Makhani (£9.95) looked glorious. I’ll have to go Veggie on a future visit and try this with the Cauliflower Potato Greens (£9.95). Two main courses, no Rice, no Bread. 
The Chapatti was as Marg likes it. A second was always on offer, however, it could never be justified.
Ginger Strips and whole Green Chillies, Toppings to embrace. The Chillies put the diner in charge of the Spice Level. I ate a whole one. 
The viscous Masala is what makes this Curry. The Seasoning didn’t register immediately due to the splendid Spiced Onions. In time everything came to the fore: Spice, Flavours, that special buzz that eating Curry creates.
The boneless pieces of Lamb disappeared in no time. One was so Tender it went down with no chewing whatsoever. Not clever. Fingers had to be employed to tackle the big bones. This is when the Hector tends to make a mess, of himself, the t-shirt. A solution has been sourced, be prepared to be amused. 
The Masala here was comparatively abundant. Had the viscosity not matched the Desi Lamb, the term – Soupy – might have been applied. This was fine. Apart from being boneless, it was difficult to tell them apart. 
Chosen because the onions were included in the smooth sauce. I do not like big chunks of onion – Marg related.
I had sampled a Soupçon at the start and found the Masala to be – Tart – in comparison to the Desi Lamb’s. My Rice portion was such that there was a donation across the table. When Marg had finished, I had another go.
I’ll stick to the Desi Lamb, on-the-bone, of course. 
I quickly dismissed today’s Specials on the board. None of those Dishes suit the Hector palate. Given the strange hiatus on the palate reported in recent weeks, I decided to conduct an experiment. Instead of repeating the glorious 
Ten pieces of Meat, no bones, were arranged around the perimeter of the Rice base. The slices of fresh Mushrooms maybe reached six. Hector could manage a Starter at Curry Cottage in addition to a main course. Enough food to be regarded as – 
The Spice Level was initially moderate, I would revise this upwards, significantly around the halfway mark. Yes, a decent Spice Level. There was no doubting the level of Seasoning, totally a la Hector! Damn good Curry. To what extent the Garlic was adding to the richness of Flavour in the Masala cannot be ascertained. What was certain, this Masala was right up there with the best. Then there was the occasional blast of Cumin from the Rice, I waited for one of the Seeds to lodge in the usual spot. 
Two days ago, Curryspondent Peter made the Hector aware of a new Curry Cafe on Glasgow’s Southside. With the aim of enjoying some more Lahori/Punjabi Cuisine, hopefully served in the Desi-style, Hector took the Subway across to Govan at 13.30. The Famous had a home match this afternoon, the streets of Govan were empty, strange times. 
It was a five minute walk along Govan Rd. to The Wee Dhaaba (17 Elder Street, Govan, Glasgow G51 3DY). As I approached, so the huge shipyard, commonly known as – Govan – came into view. I last walked this stretch one summer’s evening @1978, en route to guard part of this industrial site. The Wee Dhaaba occupies the corner unit opposite what is now Fairfield’s Heritage Centre, Elder Street is one of the many streets along the south bank of the River Clyde which comes to an abrupt dead end. 
A couple occupied the corner window table as I entered. I was surprised to see a variety of cakes (£3.50) on display under the counter, not pre-cooked Curry as is the norm on the Southside. It was apparent that The Wee Dhaaba is aiming to be recognised as a – Coffee & Cake – establishment in addition to serving Pakistani Curry.
The lady, I would later establish as – Sara – took the Order on a pad. A bottle of Sparkling Water (£1.20) was a welcomed addition.
The appearance was – magical – the aroma had me immediately won. The peripheral Oil was at a minimum. On-the-bone, there was no reference to this on the menu or discussed at the time of ordering. No messing, this was the real thing, an authentic Desi Karahi Gosht.
And so back out into an eerily quiet Saturday on Govan Rd., twenty minutes to kick-off, hardly a soul to be seen. The Wee Dhaaba is open seven days, all day, 
Long overdue a Karahi Gosht, the Hector was across the river, arriving at 
With so much on display, here was the opperchancity to take some photos of the fayre. 
The Coriander Naan was round, large and whole, already a winner. The puffy blisters added to the efficacy. In addition to the copious Coriander, the Naan glistened. I had asked for – no Garlic – was the sheen significant?
The Coriander, Ginger Strips and Bullet Chillies sliced lengthways created the classic appearance. The Meat count was double a decent standard portion, loads. Behold the Sucky Bones. The Masala, rich in Tomato Seeds, shrouded the Lamb, the peripheral Oil was collecting. This was as majestic as this Curry can be. All was set. 
The Antiseptic had gone, the Seasoning decidedly upped. Time, the great healer.
Darbar Grill 
There’s still no printed menu, the prices on the board appear to be for Takeaway. The declared portion size impressed. Had I been been looking for something else, there was no suggestion that – cooking to order – was available. As Ahmed is effectively running a school for Chefs on these premises, maybe nephew might have offered more? Hector was in a hurry, so not an issue today. 
I liked the metal bowl. Shorva, there was no denying that this was as Soupy as Curry can get. This was as Aloo Gosht should be. Seven pieces of Lamb on-the-bone and two decent sized pieces of Potato were arranged on the Rice. Two major bones, one Sucky. The Potato was cut into six manageable pieces. Enough Shorva was spooned over to create a Curry as the Hector sees it. As ever, Masala was retained for the end game, to moisten whatever Rice would be left. Boy, would I get that wrong. 
Tender, towards chewy, the Lamb was giving back Spice having sat in the Shorva for a suitable length of time. The Potato too had absorbed the Flavour of the Shorva. This was as good as this Curry gets. 
A spoon was required for part two. 
Bateera (Quails) (£7.00) at 
Just before the cluster of Curry Houses on Cheetham Hill Road, another new venue came into view – Cafe 99 Khan Baba (97 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester M8 8PY England). Rice & Three (£6.00), attractive, but it needs to be established exactly what is on offer. With kilos of Lamb Karahi also advertised, another one for the future. Walking past 
The more agile Marg went under the shutters, not quite limbo dancing, and called out. A lady emerged from the gloom. Having challenged the fact that they should be open, it was explained that there was a water problem and works were ongoing. Lahori Butt Karahi would open later.
Cafe 99 Khan Baba now seemed like the logical place to investigate. Crossing at the lights, yet another venue was revealed. A second branch of Lahori Nazara, currently of Stockport Road, east of the Wilmslow Road – Curry Mile. This may further enhance the theory long proposed in these pages, that the Curry scene in Manchester is moving north. The Northern Quarter and Cheetham Hill is becoming a more authentic – Curry Mile. With many shops in the original Curry Mile now just Kebap-grill houses, Cheetham Hill is where one finds Lahori-Desi Curry. A taxi driver on this trip concurred, he acknowledged the changing ethnicity in the south of Manchester and the change in food on offer. 
Marg likes giraffes, there had to be a photo. On entering the empty Cafe 99 Khan Baba, we chose the table at the door. Despite it getting hotter by the minute outside, we needed air. A chap sat behind the counter, it became clear he was never going to approach us. I went up to place the Order.
Wary of how splashy the accompanying Masala can be, never mind the footeriness of eating this micro-game bird, I decided to try Boiled Rice (£2.50) as the accompaniment. Having explained to Marg that Keema Balti (£7.00) was about being served in a – bucket – and did not refer to a particular ingredient, she was happy with this, plus her customary Chapatti (£1.00). 
A portion is normally two, the Hector had three! This would increase the chances of staining the polo-shirt by fifty per cent. I should invest in a bib and carry it with me. Steve later suggested I carry a spare t-shirt for dining in. There are no photos of the Hector, napkins aplenty, held in place by will power. 
The Masala oozed Desi quality. Orange, Oily, possibly blended, I put enough on top of the wee-birds to created the appearance of Curry & Rice. With some of the Masala soaked into the Rice, one part of the strategy was working. However, there was nowhere near enough Masala to accommodate the Rice. I could fetch more, as and when. The absurdity of having Quail with Rice soon became apparent. Fingers are required, there is no other practical way. 
Served on a plate, not a – bucket – one has to wonder why this Curry was called as such. 
Chicken and 
Lahori Butt Karahi was open as we walked back down Cheetham Hill Road. Their loss. Next time, but I think I have written this before.
A late night Curry at 
The 
Last night, I ordered the ½lb Cheese Burger (£6.90). Outrageous, especially when the – half kilo – was planned for this afternoon. The Onions and Pickled Chillies are what gave it height. How could each of these two patties be quarter-pounders? 
The Bill
Four good sized Lamb Chops, suitably cremated, but with the pink from the Tikka Powder adding colour, a slight detraction. Well Spiced, well Seasoned, this was the anticipated delight. Maybe two portions would be better than one? Ordered separately. I didn’t want it to end. The late night munchies were tamed. Or were they?