The first full day in Agadir; on reaching the beach this morning, Marg elected to head north towards the distant marina. In time we would be parallel with the only two reported sources of Indian Cuisine in Agadir. Bollywood – Oceana Pakistani Indian Restaurant (front de mer, Promenade Tawada, Agadir 80000 Maroc) immediately had me won. Pakistani – it said boldly on the titular banner.
The offer of – Lam Karahi Full (270.00 dh) – had to be verified. Having surveyed the premises and the menu, I told the staff member sitting at the entrance that we would be back – this evening!
With our accommodation adjacent to Place Aït Souss in the centre of the city, the thought of four lengthy walks to achieve this goal was somewhat off-putting.
Research revealed the smaller Orange Taxis are local only, easily flagged down, and cheap.
And so it was, – Aperitivo – whilst watching the sun set before walking a few doors down to Bollywood – Oceana.
Being greeted once more in the outer seating area, I asked for non-smoking. I was assured that there was no-smoking inside but permitted outside. So why was there an ashtray on every table?
As it happens, nobody smoked either in or out, a major bonus.
A side rant. For four centuries these selfish polluters had their way, harming the health of all around them. In Europe we have taken the necessary steps to put these people in their place. So why do Europeans revert back to type, a level of ignorance, at the first opperchancity? We, the non-smokers, currently have sit outside at bars, and still suffer. Sitting inside is simply not on.
Our waiter this evening was exceptional. He got the gist of Hector’s requirements quickly. Desi – was recognised when ordering the Karahi Gosht. On-the-bone – was confirmed. To accompany, the usual Chapatti (07.00 dh) for Marg and a Paratha (20.00 dh) for the Hector. A half hour wait was advised on the menu so Marg suggested we share the portion (pair) of Samosas (55.00 dh). And so – Briouates – were ordered, one Meat, one Veg. A litre bottle of Sparkling Water (25.00 dh) or – Grand Oulmes – completed the Order. FYI: £1.00 is approx 12.00 dh, so our Lam Karahi Full was around £21.00.
Our waiter brought flatbread which Marg described as being – cut like a cake – and three pots. One contained Raita, another Spiced Onion, the third – butter! A first.
I’m surprised how soft the Bread was – remarked Marg.
Near the serving area I could see another waiter smother the Onions with Tabasco or similar. I had to have a shot of the Onions. Bread before an unknown quantity of Karahi, just the job.
Briouates – Samosa
The Samosas were piping hot and well filled despite their relative flatness. The Meat Samosa was for the Hector. With discrete grains of Lamb Keema, there was a decent kick and a burst of Flavour. Was there Methi in there?
The Vegetable Samosa had Potato Mash, Peas and possibly Onion. Here there was less of an impact, and all down to the Seasoning not matching the Keema. The Hector did the reasonable thing, at the halfway point, I suggested we swap.
Having been placed at a small table for two, our waiter then suggested we move to a larger table to accommodate all that followed. Instead, all that wasn’t required was placed on the floor under the table. Thirty minutes after placing the Order, I saw a familiar sight, a large karahi sitting at the serving point. And so the feast was assembled.
The Chapatti was the version the Hector prefers: light in colour, thin, soft. Marg would soon take care of that then help out with the Paratha.
The Paratha ticked all the boxes: layered, flaky, soft and with a hint of a swirl in the centre, it was sufficiently – buttery – too. Marg confirmed that she too enjoys a Paratha but knows she cannot manage a whole one. Between us we only managed about two thirds.
You’ll need some Rice – suggested the waiter.
The Rice was declined, however, we did accept the Salad which followed. Spot the Chilli.
Lam Karahi Full
Behold, a kilo (?) of authentic Desi Karahi being served in NW Africa! Topped with Coriander, sliced Bullet Chillies and Ginger Strips, this matched anything served in the UK or Athena (Hellas). The Sucky Bones were prominent, the Masala just oozed quality. I was almost afraid to taste this creation in case it did not match the appearance.
Sliced Green Chillies had been cooked in, Marg would encounter a piece of Cinnamon Bark. Suspense.
There was a blast of Earthy Flavour, all was good. Nay, all was wonderful, imagine the taste/smell of the Souk. The softest of Lamb, some pieces hardly needed chewing. I did need a knife to separate some from the bone, were these the ones which gave off most Flavour?
The Seasoning was – fine – but we had been spoiled by the Meat Samosa which was right up there. At the point of ordering, Marg had been concerned about the Spice Level. I had assured her that Karahi is never about blowing one’s head off.
This is brilliant for me, spice-wise – remarked Marg.
Indeed, enough to make an impact, the Chillies did their job as and when. One bite of the extra Chilli was enough for the Hector.
Scraping the karahi, we both did, with the Bread to mop up the remaining Masala was spontaneous. The collecting Oil was within acceptable parameters. The Masala was exactly as it should be, enough to shroud the Meat and give off its own Flavours.
A wonderful rich flavour of sauce – reported Marg- complemented the very tender Lamb on-the-bone. There were many flavours bursting in my mouth with the spice level just on the limit. I enjoyed the soft Chapatti but loved the rich Paratha.
Previously, we have enjoyed outstanding Curry in Luxor (Egypt) and Carthage (Tunisia), this was easily the best Curry had in Africa, to date.
Dessert was not on, but Marg did manage to squeeze in Dessi Chai (20.00 dh).
Lovely, Cardamom, you’d find it repulsive!
Tea with milk? As bad as sitting inside a pub with people smoking?
The Bill
397.00 dh. (£31.25) Paid by card, there was a bit of miscalculation with the well earned tip. A 20.00 dh note sorted that.
The Aftermath
The Calling Card was well received. Our waiter then pointed to Mein Host who had sat surveying all. Both were well taken by Curry-Heute, I asked the same question to each.
There is Korma on the menu, is it Desi Korma, or Coconut?
The answer was what the Hector wanted to hear. Hopefully, this will be confirmed in the coming days.
2023 Menu extracts
Long story short, on December 25 last year, Marg declared we were going away, Aberdoom not. The Hector’s self declared objective became – somewhere warm – and – a country which would not shut down on that particular date. When easyJet announced a Glasgow-
Sources have Bayt Al Mandi (Boulevard Hassan II, Place Ait Souss, Agadir 80000 Maroc) down as a Yemeni restaurant, I also knew Biryani, at least, awaited. 
With the Green Beans, Carrots and Courgette piled high and smothering the Lamb, it took a moment to spot the Sucky Bones. Lamb on-the-bone, yay! 
The presence of Sultanas was the feature which distinguished this from a Biryani. The Lamb appeared to have been previously cooked and then grilled. One Bone only for Hector, Marg fared better here. With ultra thin slices of Meat, and something approaching offal, the Hector was in no way put off.
The Red Chilli Dip was fierce, by carefully stirring it into the Rice the killer heat dissipated. This became a much more interesting Dish. 
The Bill
The middle of – The Silly Season – and a Friday, a good night to stay in. How many Takeaways has the Hector had on this equivalent Friday? However, Chapatti John reckoned we were overdue another visit to 
Marg and Hector ensured the house-guests were punctual, early even. Simar was our waiter this evening. In time, drinks were sorted. It is The Silly Season, so no Sparkling Water (£2.50) for the Hector, Marg maintained the tradition, Maggie was – Still (£2.50). Draught Cobra (£6.95), is a ridiculous price for a bog standard pint of lager. Booze is where 
But how can one come to 
A pair, small, and too well fired, Dry too; Chapli needs to have retained a degree of moistness. These were nothing like the size or quality served at 
Chicken Liver – John assured us. 
Four reasonably sized Lamb Chops and prove me wrong, still the best value in the city. The Salad was a bit skimpy compared to previous times. Having divvied them out, and that did hurt, some of the Chilli Sauce was spooned on to the plate. 
Succulent – is a word used sparingly in these pages, it is only apposite to Grilled/Tandoori Meat. These Chops defined – succulent. Previously – cremated – was the #1 parameter, no more. With the Chilli Sauce, the Spice Level was way up there. There was a – Wow! – moment, and the Hector was only having two Lamb Chops. 
The Mushroom Rice was enough to share, just. Having also had a large lunch, Clive and Maggie had ordered a sensible quantity of food. Normally, one eats nothing before a visit to 
The Fish Karahi looked heavy going, Oil collecting in the middle of the Curry did look a bit unappetising, the magic sponge would have been welcomed at this point. Marg did her best to remove it. The Fish was flaked a la Bradford, Bullet Chillies were present in addition to the cooked-in finely chopped Green Chillies. Both Marg and Maggie set aside the Bullet Chillies. 
This was a Keema Mutter! Not a sign of needless Masala and no peripheral Oil. And quite a bucketful. 
Very good, almost as good as my own – declared Clive, maybe not so tongue in cheek. Clive is proud of his own recipe but has never dared present it to the Hector. 
Dry, with a Thick, Minimal Masala, this defines a 
The 
It’s a while since I have seen a straightforward Curry at 
It was difficult to differentiate between the remaining Dishes. Dr. Stan and John were furthest away from the Hector, no comments were heard or noted, thereafter I gave them the night off. Their choices have already been reviewed oft.
I said I’d be back soon. 
Chef Satheesh was front of house taking Orders. As ever, there was a smile of recognition as I entered. Taking a small table with my back to the kitchen, no 
As – Soupy – as Curry can be, there is no issue. Here, the Masala is outstanding, intensity of Flavour guaranteed. Having decanted the six pieces of Lamb and arranged them on top of the sensibly sized portion of Rice, it didn’t look much. OK, the pieces of Meat were a decent size, but six. Ordering two portion of Tapas (£7.99) may be worthy of consideration. 
The Curry had to be drowned, as much Masala as the plate would hold was poured on. There was still some left for dipping.
Tearing off a piece of the delightfully stringy Parotta was pleasure in its own right. The first dip fulfilled all expectations. The hot Masala gave off a big Spicy Blast, then the smokiness registered. The Seasoning, of course, was a la Hector, spot on. In time, I would unearth the Dry Red Chilli responsible in part for this Flavour. How much is down to smoked Coconut? 
I was introduced to John many years ago, he and his lady spotted Marg and I at 
Curryspondent Derek asked a while back if he could join the Hector for Curry. Today is the day. Derek suggested the time and place: 13.00 at 
Arriving early, a large bottle of sensibly priced Sparkling Water (£2.95) was ordered. The main menu was secured in addition to the 
I believe this was Derek’s first 
During the wait, we had a lot to get through. Derek admits to reading Curry-Heute weekly. He even finds this Blog amusing, in parts. He has come to recognise the faces which appear most often, and asked after Jonathan who is no longer with us. I did confirm that although the desire for Indian Food is typically satisfied thrice weekly, I do not subject Marg to Curry seven days a week. 
The Naan arrived in one piece, as asked for. That aside, it was nothing like as anticipated. Was it even a Naan? Wholemeal flour? Who makes a Naan from this? The orange parts showed signs of being well-fired. Blisters? The Bread had not risen, was far from being puffy, hence no big blisters. It was edible, I would manage my usual – half – or thereabouts. This Bread was nothing like anything ever seen previously, anywhere. The Bread Chef’s day off? 
I could tell the bowl containing the modest portion of Boiled Rice was super-hot. Derek had to take care as he decanted. 
Topped with a flourish of Coriander, visually, this Curry immediately pleased. There was little sign of the Oil separating. Rich in appearance, but surprisingly light in colour, here was a Masala Mash with Methi, not the Dark Green Mash that one encounters in a Desi Palak. As the Meat was not about to be decanted, the quantity remains unknown, however, the bone count was minimal. 
The Seasoning was definitely in the – brave – category. The Spice Level never got above – medium, no challenge here. The Meat was superbly Tender, giving of Flavour. The intensity of Flavour was approaching 
Ginger Strips were the additional Topping to distinguish the two Dishes. Here there was a an Oil presence, but far from excess. Having had this 
It was good, medium hot like they said, I could have taken it hotter. Lovely Lamb, I could have taken a Naan as well, still a bit hungry. 
After a week of indulgence at 
Arriving just on 14.00, 
Still no Sukka/Chukka so a Soupy Curry would be inevitable. The standard £7.99 for a Tapas portion used to include the choice of Rice or Bread in the quoted price, not any more. An extra £1.99 lets the diner – go large.
South Indian Fish Curry (£9.98) had yet to be tried. Soupy Curry requires Rice, the Hector was not missing the opperchancity to have a Malabar Parotta. Basmati Rice (£1.99) and a Malabar Paratha (£2.50) would be the accompaniments. I passed on Sparkling Water (£1.50) in favour of a jug of tap water. 
A manageable portion of Rice was presented in a small karahi. Every grain would be eaten. The Malabar Parotta was as small as ever, tiny. It is how it is. Soft, layered, absorbent, a joy to dip in the Masala. 
The Masala was not yellow, as anticipated, the gross – soupiness – was. As I decanted the Soupy Masala I struggled to find the Fish. Cut small, I may eventually have reached double figures, however, there was certainly not a lot of solids here. Green Chillies had been cut lengthwise, these were numerous, as were the fresh Curry Leaves. Onion Seeds were mixed through the Masala. One small piece of a Dry Red Chilli was located, this I regard as a sign of efficacy in a South Indian Curry. Keeping everything on the small dinner plate was quite a challenge. 
The hoped for assault on the palate was immediate. The Seasoning registered first, then the Spice and finally the Smokiness. This was exactly what the Hector sought. Curry with a Big Flavour, not too much to demand.
The Chillies added more of a kick when encountered. Just how many leaves is a man meant to eat? I balked at the largest one. 
Hoping to enjoy the – 
Rizwan apologised, still no Fish. There was only one thing for it – Lamb Karahi (£6.50) on-the-bone with Rice (£2.00). It has been 
A decent size, and well filled, they didn’t last long. I suspected the abundant Spiced-Onions may prove to be too much.
For Hector,
Dr. Stan then made his entrance. 
Daal, Keema and Lamb Karahi.
There were a few audible – Mmmmms. 
The Aftermath
Kabana
Four Meatballs and half a hard boiled Egg sat in a blended Masala. With the foliage applied, the Chillies and Ginger would add extra bite. The Masala was more – orange – than the Masala which features in the Karahi. I am used to Kofta Anda being served in a traditional Shorva, this was a departure. 
A different experience, well short of achieving the – Wow! – status. A decent Curry, but lacking the intensity of Flavour that the legendary Lamb Karahi possesses. 
Steve, who had poured his Curry over his Chapatti, was less forgiving:
Mags had arrived whilst we were eating. She had ordered Lamb Karahi (£6.50) and a Chapatti. Having left half of her Rice 
The naked Karahi in a bowl is a markedly different eating experience from that which the Hector often enjoys, as in 
The Hector duly waited for a few words:
What could have been a Blog of Hector Naypals was further enhanced by a familiar face appearing at the window. Enter Marg with Claire who has appeared twice in these pages. Now she knows where 
What is the route to finding happiness? Hector recommends 
It was all happening on Thomas Street in the Northern Quarter as Hector, Marg, Steve and Mags approached 
Lalaa was initially busy in the background, Rizwan greeted the familiar faces as we entered 
Knowing exactly what Marg and Hector would order, Rizwan directed us to a spacious table at the rear. Keema Peas (£6.50) with a Chapatti (£1.00) for Marg, Lamb Karahi (£6.50) on-the-bone with Rice (£2.00) for Hector. The others would also have Karahi, Mags with Rice, Steve with a Chapatti. 
Arrange a generous sprinkling of sliced Green Chillies and diced Ginger across the Curry. 
Smother in Coriander, the foliage is thus defined. 
Steve did likewise, however, as he had no Rice, the already full bowl was overflowing by the time he had decorated his Curry. There was a solution. Steve had to decant his Curry and spread it over his Chapatti. Karahi eaten with a knife and fork, what is the World coming to? 
Having had this Curry forty odd times, my pleasure is already recorded. That consistency is maintained is all the more remarkable. Sucky Bones featured, fundamental, Steve usually has – boneless. The intensity of Flavour remains so distinctive. Cloves, clearly a key ingredient, but no Whole Spices were revealed. The Masala, wonderful, far from excessive, tomorrow’s Fish creation was already being formulated. 
Marg having a Mince Curry, nothing new here either. The bowl was full of Mince and Peas, there was next to no Masala. This is how Keema should be served. 
My usual choice of dish, served hot with an abundance of peas. It didn’t disappoint me as it was up to its usual standard, a lovely meal. 
Omar did the double take when he saw me sitting alone in 
Today I fancied a Desi Korma, and with 
After an appropriate wait, the waitress brought the food. The aroma of the Desi Qorma already had me won. I know it’s not exactly the same as was served here in the Noughties, one always hopes. Perhaps the distinctively flavoured Vegetable Rice, which was once a featured accompaniment, was fundamental to the overall enjoyment. The Veggie Rice (£3.50) which is available, bears little resemblance to what was, however, at the time of writing, there is the realisation that it should be given another chance. 
The Sucky Bone stood out in the Toppings of Ginger Strips and Coriander. I reached double figures whilst decanting the Meat to the Rice. Two other bones had next to no Meat, still, there was plenty to enjoy. 
The Seasoning was instantly apparent, the Spice less so. Within a few minutes I was reaching for the napkin, yes, this Curry was Spicy. The Tenderest of Meat gave off an explosion of Flavour whilst chewing. 
Why do I rarely spot Cardamom before I bite into them? A Green Cardamom and some whole Cloves were duly set aside. Whole Spices, an important feature of a Desi Curry, but one can choose what to digest. 
The Aftermath