Bradford – Sheesh Mahal – Meet The New Boys

Time was, a midnight Bradford Curry could be the first/last of three in a twenty four hour period. Maybe those days have gone for good, just as well. After the ritual Fish Karahi at Kashmir Restaurant this afternoon, the plan was to squeeze in one more. Two nights in Bradford only, so many favourite venues to get round, not possible.

When Mein Host at The Record Cafe declared a 22.00 closing tonight, Hector’s plans dissolved into disarray. Still not enough recovery time after a late lunch, and the explanation was something to do with being a Sunday and January. Chaps, we need a midweek trip to Bradford/Halifax in the warmer months.

It was 22.30 when we walked into Sheesh Mahal (6 St. Thomas’ Rd, Bradford, BD1 2RW). Westgate, next door, was derelict, in fact, even the signage had gone. So much for their renovation. There was no Taj, Omar or Amar, only young Abdul recognised us. Usman and Waqas would also be looking after us tonight.

Poppadoms were declined, twice, Raita and a Dip, whose recipe appears in Curry-Heute as – Pakora Sauce 2 – were brought in an instant. Despite pleading for no more, a comprehensive Salad still appeared. Such is the welcome at Sheesh Mahal.

So no Curry for Hector, something I have been tempted to do in Glasgow for some time was the fallback. Mix Grill Platter (£13.45) – a Meat Feast, and no need for unnecessary Rice/Bread. Surely, despite Marg saying she wasn’t hungry, she would have a nibble, or two, or three… To Share For 2 People – the menu informs. Marg thought this was OTT, but that would be my main/only course.

Marg not hungry? The Record Cafe’s crisps, almonds and olives had all been enjoyed. I fail to comprehend why Marg needs these distractions, surely watching Hector enjoy his Craft Beer should be stimulating enough of an evening? (emoticon understood)

Marg’s order – Kashmiri Tea (£2.60).

A Saturday night, and only two other customers. What has happened to the days when we were all crammed into the original, dungeon-like premises? Since the rebuild, I have never seen Sheesh Mahal this quiet at night.

Mix Grill Platter

Seekh Kebab both Chicken and Meat, Chicken Tikka Boti, Chicken Wings, Masala Fish and Lamb Chops! The Chicken Wings aside, Omar has probably tantalised the Hector with the remaining items in this list at some point previously.

The pile of Meat on the platter was huge, two of everything, perfect for sharing. Overall, there would only be one criticism: Hector likes his Meat cremated. However, succulence may then be lost. Tonight, everything was suitably hot and moist.

I started with the most familiar, the Seekh Kebab. Here was the opperchancity to confirm that Lamb always trumps Chicken, and of course it did. Spicy and Herb-rich, superb. The Lamb Chops, being relatively underdone, did not have the impact they could have had. But still, Lamb Chops, and Hector had both!

By this time it had become apparent that Marg was not going to assist, she would force me to devour all that lay before me. Hector was up for the challenge.

Nando’s! – was my exclamation when tackling the Chicken Tikka Boti. Tasty Chicken, but as ever, the added Spice and Flavouring were superficial. (which of course is why Nando’s provide bottled sauces to spice up the white meat)

Wetherspoon’s Chicken Wings are spicier than those served here. The best was kept to last. Omar presented Steve and Hector with Fish one evening, it was truly outstanding. Tonight, the Batter was a bit limp, but the Fish itself was – Wow! Thick chunks of Fishiness. For the second time today, Hector had been wowed by Fish. Why is that I have to come to Bradford to make it so?

The sad conclusion had to be admitted: having managed all this, I could have had a Curry.

The Bill

£16.05 My records show that a Mix Grill Platter in 2021 was only £10.95.

The Aftermath

Having observed the photography, Usman asked if I was a writer, I don’t think he was prepared for the introduction of Curry-Heute. He has only been at Sheesh Mahal for a couple of weeks. The Calling Card was distributed to all, time to make everyone famous.

I was also told that Westgate is relocating. Maybe a Bradford resident can advise as to where?

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Manchester – Kabana – One Cannot Improve Upon Perfection

Friday 13th, a good day to travel. Today trains were running to time, well almost. At least the trains were running. This is the annual weekend when IQ perform in Bury. Hector learned years ago not to stay in Bury, especially when a night in Manchester is the alternative.

A stay in Manchester, it is written that one starts at Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England). We waited until 14.00 to give time for the lunchtime rush to pass. Fridays are different, Kabana was stowed. Marg did manage to grab a table whilst Hector worked out who in the queue had been served and who was waiting otherwise. Rizwan, Mein Host, was busy assembling Orders for delivery. Whilst I waited, all staff behind the counter acknowledged my arrival bar one. The chap who clears the tables waved with – gusto.

For Hector, Karahi Lamb (£6.00), on-the-bone, with Rice (£1.50), always choice #1. Marg went for Keema Spinach (£6.00) with a Chapatti (£0.90). Marg was only too well aware that this was her first Spinach since the debacle in Köln at a Persian Restaurant – Zarathustra – last month. Hector faced up to Palak once again at Yadgar (Glasgow) last weekend.

As ever, when Rizwan served me, he said he would bring the food over himself. I was amused when he brought a plateful of the – foliage. For once Hector would not get to finish the Coriander.

Keema Spinach

No unnecessary Masala, and no visible Oil, this was as Dry a Keema as I have encountered, brave. With the Spinach mixed through the Mince, the appearance reminded me of Haggis. It’s that time of year.

Bread was the only possible accompaniment, there was sufficient moistness to complement a Chapatti, Rice would have killed it. The Chapatti, large, and of the Wholemeal variety, was hot, freshly made. Marg would eat nearly all of her Chapatti, way more than I would have managed. I could have exerted some influence and suggest she have a Naan. Naan at Kabana is a rare treat for Hector.

Marg got tucked in. What looked like a modest plate of Curry proved to be misleading. Remember, with no Masala to speak of, this was a solid mass.

A Soupçon did cross the table, more Seasoning was Hector’s take, but with Saag/Palak, maybe not required.

I think I need a break from spinach – was an early comment by Marg.

Too much of a good thing? – was my response.

Had this come to soon after Zarathustra?

A large portion of Keema with more spinach than I bargained for. A good kick, and a lovely Chapatti completed my main meal of the day.

Karahi Lamb

Rizwan brought the naked Curry. What a portion, – double figures – did not do the Meat count justice. It also made a mockery of the portion size and subsequent price of my last Curry at West End – Chaakoo (Glasgow) at the start of the week.

With the Karahi Lamb suitably – dressed – it was time to tear in.

Starting with the blended Masala and Rice there was an immediate kick and blast of Flavour. Cloves are the distinctive Manchester Spice, I would pick out a piece of Cinnamon Bark in due course.

Sucky Bones, their presence is always a sign of pedigree Curry. The Flavours were full on, a Curry that could be eaten every day. I’m sure some people do. I’ll keep using the term – Curry – one day Rizwan will explain why he thinks this is – Karahi. Maybe a hint of Yoghurt in the mix? Whatever, the Masala remains a delight, and the quality of the Lamb never fails to impress.

Plus ça change – I wrote in a certain social medium – one cannot improve upon perfection.

By 14.50, Kabana was relatively empty, however, the peace was disturbed. As we let our food digest, so an extraordinarily loud, local – character – entered, demanding well fired Lamb Chops. Character? Apparently he’s on YouTube.

I saw the Lamb Chops, if only I could manage these and a Curry.

The Bill

£15.40   On Monday, I paid more than this for about a tenth of the quantity of food, and today’s was way better.

The Aftermath

I advised Rizwan that – The Company – will be invading Manchester in ten days. He offered to cook – something special – but gave no clue as to what that might be.

Watch this space.

IQ – Bury

40+ years of Prog Nonsense

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Glasgow – West End – Chaakoo – Overpriced, Underwhelmed

On Saturday, Yvonne a regular diner at Chaakoo – Bombay Cafe in the city centre, informed me of a 40% January discount. Today, Hector took the opperchancity to make a first visit to their second outlet – West End – Chaakoo (61 Ruthven Ln, Glasgow G12 9BG).

Having looked online, the menu at both venues appears to be identical, Hector had Fish Curry in mind, a Dish not previously had at Chaakoo. One always hopes that it could be the best yet.

The Subway was off, in both directions, there was little choice other than to walk to Byres Rd. from Partick. Taking respite from the prolonged precipitation, and the numerous puddles in Ruthven Lane, I reached Chaakoo at 14.10. For the uninitiated, Ruthven Lane lies to the west side of Byres Road. Ashton Lane, to the east, has two other famous Curry Houses,  I was surprised to find that the restaurant is upstairs, in this former mews.

Two couples occupied booths to my left on entry, a group of youths in the far corner to the right. They were loud, Hector went left. A well mannered chap was wiping tables, I was able to choose my own spot.

The paper menu was in situ, doubling as a table mat. Other than the – Bombay Small Plates – there was nothing on the menu to say that all plates are Tapas. Kerala Monkfish (£9.95) would either be excellent value for a main course, or surely way overpriced for – Tapas.

Mother India’s Cafe is my base level for comparison. Today’s Fish Curry would be compared to Mother India’s Cafe, whose Machi Massala (£5.80) is still held as being the best Fish Curry served in this city.

There was no sign of a 40% discount, so maybe just the city centre branch? Strange. On previous Chaakoo visits, there has been a deal combining Starter, plus one Tapas with Rice. I asked the chap who had just brought me a large carafe of Tap Water. A lunch menu was brought, Grill & Curry (£11.95), better value but no Fish Curry, not much in the way of Lamb either.

On previous Chaakoo visits, the model has been the Grill & Curry deal with an extra Dish from the Main Menu. Today I was not up for investing £21.90 for lunch.

Back in 2019, four years since my last Chaakoo visit then, Mags ordered impressive looking Bombay Potatoes (£5.95). With a thicker Masala, this was a departure from the otherwise Soupy Curry choices served at Chaakoo.

And so Kerala Monkfish and Bombay Potatoes was the Order, no Rice/Fries. The words – Tapas, Small Plates – had not still not been mentioned, however, the next couple to arrive were advised thus.

The new cheapo camera appears to take better photos of close up writing than its predecessor, however, it’s difficult to tell if/when a photo has actually been taken. I fear missing out recording a main course in future. Care will have to be taken. Maybe a new phone is the compromise?

Don’t Fear The Reaper – was playing in the background. Was it on repeat? It seemed to go on forever. This was the first time I had knowingly heard Blue Oyster Cult, I nearly bought – Secret Treaties – on its release, being intrigued by the cover. You too can now be pestered with ads for Blue Oyster Cult on finding the reason why.

The ultra polite waiter brought the Order, Tapas confirmed, it didn’t look much. At least I had avoided the ubiquitous blended, Soupy Masalas served previously. The two white bowls were hot to touch, careful, Hector.

Bombay Potatoes

Three Baby Potatoes sat in a mass of chopped Onions, also featuring Curry Leaves and Mustard Seeds. It’s good when these Seeds are identified, else one is left wondering, Mustard, Poppy, Nigella etc. There was a definite oil slick collecting at the bottom of the bowl, best avoided. I decanted to the side-plate provided.

Kerala Fish

The base Masala appeared almost identical to the above, this time creamier, Coconut Milk probably being the extra, plus Ginger and Garlic.  The Onion pieces were possibly larger. Four pieces of rolled Monkfish were decanted, that I reached four triggered another comparison. The four pieces of Fish presented recently at Travancore (Aberdeen) caused Hector great consternation, was that all I’m getting? Four pieces of Monkfish, hardly filling. I had my Potatoes.

Baby Potatoes, fitting for Tapas, I would have to eke these out. The ratio of Potato to – Masala – for me, was not well judged. Too much of the latter. Masala, was this truly a Masala, was this Curry?  The menu claimed so. Looking back to 2019, I remain convinced that the efficacy of the Masala was not in doubt. Today, I felt as if I had mostly – chopped Onions – not cooked down to form a mash. This was clearly deliberate, Chef’s decision.

The Spice Level was near the low end of the scale, but in time did build, slightly. There was some sense of Seasoning, but no great blast of Flavour. Unlike my favoured Curry Cafes where the Aloo has sat in the Masala for many hours, there was little/no impregnation here. Time for the Fish.

The Coconut Creaminess made this Dish even more mellow than its accompaniment. The Ginger did come through but remained faint. The Fish was well cooked, rubberiness avoided. Once more, Hector has to report a Fish Curry that did not have a pronounced sense of – Fishiness. Should I start to conclude that this is too much to ask? No way, I’m a Hector, and I’ll find my Fishy – Fish Curry.

With the Curry Leaves on both sides of my plate, I concluded that some must have been with the Kerala Monkfish also. I hoped for the telltale – smokiness – I associate with Curry Leaves and Coconut, not today.

Small Plates, the bowls were once too hot to touch, their contents were never more than – warm/hot, the food cooled rapidly. How had my Order been heated? Ding?  Hector’s rule #1 in reheating Curry – never use a microwave.

I saw three people working in the kitchen, had they prepared my Order from scratch, was it shipped in from St. Vincent Street? Chains, here lies the basic issue. One cannot tell if all comes from a central kitchen, unless one actually knows, and for one Glasgow Chain, I do.

I ate on, the Fish and Potatoes gone, I was left with the almost cold, chopped Onions and little sense of enjoyment. Wet and bland – were my final notes. I was never going to be filled by this, a Rice or Bread would have been an obvious addition to my Order. Too late.

The Bill

£16.72 The menu had warned of an – Optional & Discretionary 10% service charge. This was also stated on The Bill. I prefer to choose my own degree of tip, however, I was happy to pay this, the front of house staff had been excellent.

The Aftermath

Calling Cards are typically issued on Visit #1, was this so? Why spoil the day of the chaps who had so ably served me? My issue was with what they had served. I had spotted that if one leaves a review in a certain medium, they come back quickly.

I asked a simple question. QED.

As for the 40% discount, Yvonne later confirmed this on her phone … but only if one books in advance, Monday to Wednesday throughout January. This information is not on their website, that I can see.

West End – Chaakoo is not for Hector. Irani Cafés – I thought I had laid the ghost of Persia to rest. The favoured Southside Curry Cafes provide authentic fayre, and full portions at prices comparable to that paid here for – Small Plates. For Tapas, Mother India’s Cafe wins hands down, and their Machi Massala tastes of – Fish! 

2023 Menu

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Glasgow – Yadgar Kebab House – Overindulgence, Hector’s avoidance of…

Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) has been somewhat neglected in recent months, September last year being the most recent visit. Hector admits to celebrating the positives in Karahi Palace’s open/closed cycle since last summer. Last summer, my last full blown Goshat Karahi at Yadgar was in July. We are overdue another feast, when Jim and Dr. Stan are ready, it will be arranged.

Arriving at 14.30, Naveed was in his spot behind the counter.

A surprise visit – was part of his greeting.

Shkoor, Mein Host, then emerged from the kitchen, he too did the double take.

Determined not to overindulge, I surveyed the trays under the counter, the – Daily Specials. Aloo Keema Mutter (£7.00) – sat in the middle of three, always tempting, but Hector has maybe seen enough Mince of late. Chapli Kebab (£3.50) has become a must in recent visits, today I would resist, no overindulgence.

Lamb Palak (£7.00), or – Saag – as Shkoor referred to it, was the only Lamb – Daily Special – visible. Could the Hector face this density of Spinach once again, after Zarathustra (Köln)? There was only one way to find out.

And a half portion of the Aloo Gobi, please, I don’t want to embarrass myself.

What should accompany?

A Tawa Chapatti (£0.70) completed the Order.

On moving through to the seating area, the place was surprisingly busy. The window tables were occupied and remained so thereafter, the under-seat heating being a magnet. I sat well into the room, out of sight of the counter, a chap beside me was just finishing. He was clearly a regular given his exchanges as he paid. On his table was a menu, this I was keen to see. Thus, I am able to give prices for each part of my Order. Nothing has changed since last year, as Naveed said in September, as long as they keep selling out what is prepared each day, the price of Curry can be held.

A serving chap brought a Mango Rubicon (£1.00), the orchestra in the kitchen was being well conducted. Chef Arshad stopped to chat en-route from kitchen to store cupboard. He has been on holiday of late, my return visit was well timed.

Fish Pakora

Fish Pakora (£6.00) another irresistible Yadgar stalwart, I hadn’t enquired, but still it came. Not a full portion, three large pieces of Fish in Batter, plus the heated Chilli Sauce, stunning. Fishy, Spicy, delightful, and lets not overlook the mini-Salad and Spiced Onions. Thankfully, I had avoided Poppadoms (£0.40), and a full plate of Special Salad (£1.50), still a feast, hopefully, overindulgence avoided, so far.

As I finished the Fish Pakora, so the actual Order was assembled on the table.

Tawa Chapatti

This, I could easily have done without. Huge, of the Wholemeal variety, hot for a while, I set a half Chapatti as my target. 

*

Aloo Gobi

A sensible fraction of a portion, enough to titillate, and not miss out. The majority of my Soupçon was Cauliflower with the Masala Mash also being Cauliflower-rich. I decided to ignore the clean plate and use the now warmer one on which the Fish had occupied.

Lamb Palak/Saag

A plateful, topped with Coriander, an abundance of Herbs, a test. Eight pieces of Lamb, some on-the-bone, sat in the thick green mush. Where to start?

On the assumption that the Palak would overwhelm the palate, I started with the Aloo Gobi. Astonishing! The Cauliflower had absorbed so much Flavour from the Masala Mash, the unique – Yadgar Taste – was pronounced. To come to Yadgar and not sample a Vegetable Curry, criminal.

Shkoor would stop and check on my progress throughout the meal.

How do you do it? – I asked with reference to the intensity of Flavour in the Aloo Gobi.

It just happens.

They give nothing away.

The Chapatti was used to scoop the Spinach, this tempered the full on attack. As reported each time I have tackled this, Yadgar have five Herbs in their Palak: Spinach, Coriander, Methi, Mustard Leaves and Curry Leaves being the likely candidates. I’ll always prefer a Masala with Herbs to this full onslaught, however, this makes a fine change. Man cannot live by Karahi Gosht alone, though Hector may be up for that challenge.

On enquiring about my appreciation or otherwise, I had to tell Shkoor about my Persian Lamb-Spinach Dish at the aforementioned Zarathustra (Köln). I do not typically go OTT with criticism, however there it was deserved. Shkoor was aware of Persian Cuisine, and that they – steam – the food. The result, blandness, with a nasty edge.

But that is not what sat before me today. Somehow, the – Yadgar Taste – was present in the Tender Lamb, albeit very much in the background. There were more bones than first realised, including a bare Sucky Bone! Is it the Bone Marrow which is the Yadgar secret?

Dry Curry, that which the Hector seeks, still moist, not a contradiction. A Virtual Masala, just thought of that. The Spinach Mash had me take note. From here too, the Flavours were complex: Herbs of course, a slight Sweetness, and a further nod to the – Yadgar Taste. At other venues, this would be Bitter. Still, the quantity of Spinach et al was on the edge of my comfort zone, would I clear the plate?

Having been determined not to overindulge, the Chapatti was abandoned, I need to order a half Chapatti. The Meat was done, I managed the last spoonfuls of Saag, honour maintained.

My final exchange with Shkoor was regarding the opening hours. The menu states these, however, I know the reality to be different. Since Lockdown, I was told, people no longer come out for midnight Curry. 22.30 is presently a typical closing time. However it is opening times that are of concern for Hector: Fridays aside, 13.00 was declared.

The Bill

Given the part portion of Aloo Gobi, I had an estimate. Naveed’s was lower, I went higher. £12.00.

The Aftermath

Farewells, until next time. I suspect my table was claimed soon after. Saturday afternoon at Yadgar is proving to be a popular time.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – Happy New Year!

Happy New Year to all readers of Curry-Heute which will soon be entering its fourteenth year, a lot of Curry, a lot of writing. A special mention to Curryspondents who were in touch: Doug, Archie, Ayaz, Zaheer and Tom, plus continuing thanks to Neil who proof reads these pages.

With Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley resident, there would be Curry-Heute. Having not been to Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) since last year, where else would Hector celebrate Curry-2023#1? Marg drove us to Tradeston, carefully avoiding the football traffic. (What were those Subs all about?) We arrived at 15.20, and being a public holiday, parked right outside Karahi Palace.

We took the window table such that a fan heater was able to do the necessary. Having spotted Marg’s photo on a certain social medium, Ayaz, Mein Host, referred to this as we exchanged season’s greetings. For those who missed it, here’s your opperchancity. Hector has a new camera, cheap as chips, we’ll see how it fares.

A quick glance at the ready Curry, Chicken Keema stood out. Ayaz confirmed that the (Lamb) Keema Mutter was not ready. My fellow diners took the Mince option: Spicy – Chicken Keema (£8.50) for Clive, less so, for Maggie, and for Marg, Mince Poori (£7.00).

Having had the Karahi Lamb (£12.00) here a mere three days ago, it was time for the grand alternative: Spicy Lamb Korma (£10.50). With the Mushroom Rice (£5.00), this has once again become Hector’s favourite Glasgow Curry. There is a differentiation between Curry and Karahi, fear not, mountains of Lamb in Minimal Masala should hopefully continue to appear aplenty in these pages.

The Mushroom Rice portion is way too large for one, Maggie was keen to share. Two Chapattis (£1.00) completed the order. One was really enough, one and a half would be ideal. Will 2023 be the year of – the half Chapatti?

Ayaz brought a jug of tap water. Last week I didn’t touch this, today, I can report no chemical taste. Glasgow tap water should be tasteless.

Ayaz and his new assistant got to work. After an appropriate time, what must be the hottest food served in the city was brought to the table. Here is the joy of this humble establishment, cooking food to order and nothing is left to sit, waiting for the other components to get ready. Teamwork.

Two substantial Chapattis, halved, were presented. Last Friday I marvelled once more at the quality of Chapatti served here. Today, I had a half, to wipe my bowl essentially. The Mushroom Rice was the focus of the accompaniments. With fresh Mushrooms, this is Biryani quality, tasty in its own right. Maggie was well taken by it also.

Spicy Lamb Korma

Served with a comparatively Soupy Masala, this needs Rice. The ratio of Masala to the half portion of Mushroom Rice worked perfectly. Moist Rice throughout, even allowing for my dipping with Chapatti.

Once the nine pieces of Meat were arranged on the Rice, so I then spread the Masala. The mindset had to be switched to – Curry.

Magnificent Lamb, served on-the-bone, as is the only way at Karahi Palace,  and with a sufficiency of sliced Green Chillies, the Spice Level was right up there. The Seasoning was perfection, as a consequence the full Desi Flavours flooded across the tongue, the Citrus was there, what a Masala.

Peppercorns were in the mix, from the Masala or Mushroom Rice, hard to tell once all was on the plate. The Rice truly plays it part in this royal combination, the Mushrooms add Diversity, for Hector, this is Curry Heaven.

I suppose diners could take half the Mushroom Rice away if dining alone. This is not to be missed.

Mince Poori

This creation makes its first appearance in Curry-Heute. The quantity of filling far surpasses the Chicken Tikka Puri previously posted. This Chicken Keema Puri was a meal, and one which I suspect Marg will have again. A Puri is surely so much more than a Chapatti, her customary accompaniment, and sweeter, Marg does – sweet.

First Curry of the year, Marg’s initial reaction maintains: this is Spicy!

It was larger than expected a full portion of Keema with a side Salad.

Two Dips had also made their way to the table.

A good flavour with a wee kick. The Bread was fluffy and went well with the meat.

Chicken Keema

Meanwhile, across the table, Maggie was questioning – medium Spice. Clive’s Keema had added sliced Green Chillies, presumably Maggie’s was as on display. Whilst the Mushroom Rice did temper the Spice in the lesser Keema, Yoghurt was called for, a Mint Raita was presented. All was well.

My first ever Chicken Keema – began Clive – very happy. Asked for Spicy, not unbearable, at the right level for me. The quantity was right, had it been three times as much, I would have eaten it.

Once Maggie had recovered:

The Mushroom Rice was tasty with whole Mushrooms in a big portion. The Chicken Mince, lots of, loads of, flavour. The Chicken Mince was both hot and spicy for a medium, hence yoghurt was requested and delivered, I ate too much.

And she didn’t order a Starter!

Lord Clive and Lady Maggie never leave Glasgow feeling hungry.

The Bill

£41.50   Four fed, for a tenner a head.

The Aftermath

Hector hates selfies, Marg loves them. For the sake of harmony, here we go…

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – We’re Back!

On December 17, I found Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) closed, again. Mein Host, Ayaz, was not responding to communications, the worst was feared. Two days ago, Howard reported Karahi Palace to be open, yay.

Arriving at 16.10, Ayaz was there to greet.

What happened?

I had to go to Pakistan.

Why didn’t you take me with you?

I took my favourite spot in the empty seating area. The usual order was recited: Karahi Lamb (£12.00) and one Chapatti (£1.00). A jug of tap water was brought, this I did not touch.

The Delivery Chap was sampling the fayre on display between orders. It was only later I saw a third staff member, a new assistant in the kitchen.

Ayaz got to work, another single diner arrived and settled down. I never heard him place an order, somehow his Curry & Chips arrived.

Karahi Lamb

The thought of never having this, as cooked at Karahi Palace, ever again has been foremost in Hector’s mind for the past thirteen days. Super hot food, such a familiar aroma, here we go, again.

Lamb on-the-bone, as soft as Lamb can be and full of Flavour. The Chapatti was used to scoop up the Tomato based Masala. What a Chapatti, a standout today, light and fluffy, one can take this for granted, perfect.

This Karahi was more than pleasure, a fix. The cooked in – sliced Green Chillies – upped the kick, the Seasoning may have been a tad below what is usually served to Hector.

Given what is now being charged for a kilo of Karahi Gosht, this portion was still excellent value. There was no stress involved in eating this Karahi, minimal bones, one sucky. Somehow I ate this Curry quicker than normal, at the end, still hot food. The final Curry of the year, what a way to end.

The Bill

£12.50    One may ask…

The Aftermath

I had to ask after Rashid. Ayaz hopes he will be back in the coming weeks and manage a few hours per day. He is – le Chef!

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Hector Cooks for Carnoustie 2022 – Aloo Keema Mutter

A night in Carnoustie en route home, all part of the ritual of xmas in Aberdoom.

Can you cook for eight? – another part of the ritual.

That Mags and Dr. Alasdair need a break, having entertained their hordes, is understood. Free accommodation and more importantly, abundant heat, is not to be declined in these times. Due to Covid, it is three years since Marg and Hector engaged in this ritual, however there was a – please bring a dish – request at the end of July this year for a wedding reception. Desi Murgh Aloo might be suitable for the masses, however, for a discerning eight, something better was required.

Palak Gosht would be a suitable test, but not everyone can handle Spinach in a Curry. Marg and Hector may have seen enough Saag/Palak pro tem. Kofta Anda was considered. Maybe next time. Keema Aloo Mutter can’t go wrong.

The Spice mix, powders and whole, was assembled on xmas eve and taken north. The fresh ingredients were purchased this morning at Aberdeen’s foremost Asian grocer – New Spice of Asia – on John Street, next door to the former source of the finest rowies. What happened to them?

Frozen Onions always produce surplus water, these were thawed, heated and drained. As shall be seen, not to any great effect.

The Onions were heated on the induction hob, then cooked in the Oil for approaching an hour with the Garlic and Ginger, before the Spices were added. At some point during the chopping of Tomatoes and Green Chillies, it was realised that the abundant Herbs on the counter were not Coriander.

Some twenty years back, whilst shopping at KRK (Glasgow), I was told to always taste a Coriander leaf at the point of purchase, else – one might go home with Parsley. Mags was on the case, alas there was no Coriander to be bought in Carnoustie. Friends and family were consulted, driving to Dundee/Arbroath was dismissed. Not the end of the World.

Meanwhile…

Dr. Alasdair prepared his Peanut Chat Masala, which also required Coriander. I suggested he add some Tamarind instead. Tamarind was to be the only ingredient added to the Keema beyond those listed in the recipe. How to avoid – blandness – was my explanation.

There would also be a very yellow Curry made from leftovers. Turkey Balti – was Dr. Alasdair’s chosen moniker. Dr. Alasdair was also making – Flatbread. Paul would bring his home-made Naan.

The Potatoes, locally sourced, were cooked separately, just in case they were resistant. On an induction hob, everything seems to takes three times longer to cook, just saying. Gas is king, if one can still afford it. Before these were added, it was necessary to remove the excess liquid, mostly water. Three of these bowls were ladled off in order to create something approaching presentable Keema. Freshly ground Garam Masala was added, before and after the draining.

Marg, having spotted the Green Chillies, pleaded for me not to make it too Spicy. Marg was given a Soupçon, the usual reaction followed. More Tamarind, more Salt, eventually I could actually taste – Curry. Not too shabby.

Dave and Cathy arrived with Poppadoms, Spiced Onions and copious Coriander. The day was saved!

Mags put Pakora in the oven, soon we were sitting in the kitchen having – Starters. Marg soon realised the consequence of abundant Starters.

With the Breads in the oven, the Curry was decanted to a serving dish, the first time all of Hector’s Carnoustie Curry has not required two. One kilo of Lamb Mince, how had I ended up with so much? There was way more than eight could manage. Potatoes and Peas? I could have dropped one.

The Main Event

The Turkey Balti had magically turned – brown. Methinks the Garam Masala had found its way in here too. Making a Curry with precooked Turkey has its limitations. Brown Turkey Meat, cooked from scratch, can give excellent results, white Turkey not. With minimal Spice and Seasoning, this was what it was.

Paul’s Naan impressed once again. No Tandoor, no Tawa, oven cooking might not produce the iconic burnt blisters, but the Bread was light and fluffy. I made sure that Ginger Strips and chopped Coriander were on the table. Let’s have – the foliage!

Aloo Keema Mutter

Carol asked me if I thought my Aloo Keema Mutter was too Spicy for her. That she asked, suggested a rhetorical question. Later, I was assured it was not. One has to play safe, no point serving a Curry people cannot eat.

The usual noises were made around the table. There were no – wows – none deserved. Such was the quantity, much was left over. Competent Aloo Keema Mutter, no more. Let the Hector loose.

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Aberdeen – Travancore Restaurant – where once was Blue Moon

Travancore Restaurant (11 Holburn St., Aberdeen AB10 6BS Scotland), the second of the two new Curry Houses which have opened in Aberdeen in the era of Covid. Two days ago, the Curry at Rehmat’s Restaurant certainly impressed. Comparisons tonight were inevitable, where appropriate. Travancore is housed in what was for many years – Blue Moon – last visited in 2017, it closed in 2019.

It was Graeme who identified tonight’s venue, and arranged a table for four at 18.00. Euan would join Marg and Hector, we four have dined together previously, usually at Lahore Karahi.

Arriving punctually, Marg and Hector found Travancore to be empty. A table was allocated near the door, but away from any draught. A 2022 – Curry Awards – certificate was posted at both the door and on the bar. Who wins Awards? It was only after the meal I noted the room beyond the bar, an overflow. The layout does not appear to have been altered significantly.

As Abdullah would later inform us,  Travancore is the third business to occupy these premises since Blue Moon closed. The photographic ritual was underway when our fellow diners arrived, we were fully assembled by 17.58.

Travancore, a South Indian Restaurant, Smoky Flavoured Curry was therefore Hector’s hope, expectation. Travancore Fish Curry (£13.99) featuring – king fish – was both Graeme and Hector’s choice. What is – king fish? Makes a change from – Masala Fish. Euan was going for Chicken Kurumulugu Curry (£10.49) – a Black Pepper based sauce, we shall see. Plain Rice (£2.99) was almost the accompaniment, however, the chaps opted for the more exotic Lemon Rice (£3.49).

Despite the description suggesting – stir fry – other than – Curry – Marg went for Lamb Black Pepper Fry (£10.49) with a pair of Chapattis priced at £2.49. Two things to note, the price of Bread appears to have at least stabilised in Aberdeen, £1.25 for a Chapatti approaches the norm. Is it possible that Curry-Heute has been an influence here in some way? However, I question why in the majority of UK Curry Houses, Fish is charged at a premium, whilst in Europe, Fish Curry is always less than a Meat Curry?

Marg stuck with the customary Sparkling Water, a 330ml bottle (£1.95), whilst the chaps had draught Kingfisher (£4.65). Having tagged Monsoona (Aberdeen) in my last post, I am somewhat surprised to see that £4.65 is what was being charged there for a pint, ten years ago. Then, there was apoplexy, today this feels normal, however, it’s still supermarket quality Bier.

Sanjo took the Order, the drinks arrived promptly. The wait for the Mains was not lengthy, a Mainstream Curry House by Curry-Heute’s classification, it shouldn’t take long to cook Fish or fry the pre-cooked Lamb.

The Chapattis were in the proper, traditional style, no Wholemeal Flour here. Perhaps smaller than a Glasgow equivalent, two proved to be appropriate.

*

The Lemon Rice portion covered the plate, not enough to share. The nut content may not have suited some, however, it added a diversity of texture.

The promised tanginess was a major feature of the Lemon Rice, as Graeme commented, – Lemon always goes well with Fish.

Chicken Kurumulugu Curry

Kurumulugu/Kurumulaku is, by deduction, the Black Pepper which was first traded with Vasco da Gama for Chillies, originally sourced from the Americas. Ginger Strips and Curry Leaves topped the Creamy, Nut-infused Masala with Peppery specks.

A Soupy, Creamy, Chicken Curry, not for the Hector, however, Euan was well pleased with his selection:

Very enjoyable, plenty of chicken, the Lemon Rice complemented the flavour.

*

*

Travancore Fish Curry

The Smoky aroma was prominent as Sanjo placed the bowl before me. A squarish piece of Fish sat floating in the Soupy Masala, with a threat of Curry Leaves. Soupy, the antithesis of Hector’s preferred style, alas, how the Mainstream present South Indian Curry.

On arranging the Fish on the Lemon Rice, there was a moment of outrage. Four pieces of Fish, the fifth solid was a piece of cooked Tomato. How can anyone justify fourteen quid for this? This was basically insulting the diner. Welcome back to the real Aberdoom. Move on.

The first positive was the ratio of Masala to Rice, an ideal match. Unearthing a whole, dried Red Chilli ticked another of Hector’s boxes for South Indian Curry. A Chettinad variant is what was hoped for, if it has to be Soupy and Creamy, so be it.

A strategy was required, else I would have been left with Rice and Masala in minutes. I broke each piece of Fish up into four – small – pieces. I could at least pretend there was meat on the plate.

There was an immediate – kick – from the Masala, the desired Smoky Blast was also instantaneous. The Seasoning was exactly at the level which the Hector seeks. Hector was already in a forgiving mood. The Creaminess proved not to be intrusive, this Curry was all about the distinctive South Indian Flavours.

Across the table, Graeme was trying to identify – king fish. Tuna was mooted, the firm Texture certainly was commensurate with this. Fish that tasted – fishy – never to be taken for granted, another box ticked. As mentioned above, the Lemon Rice was a perfect foil for this Curry. Later we discussed if the Rice alone was responsible for our enjoyment of both this and the Chicken Curry.

Excellent Fish Curry – was my final, personal note. A pity there wasn’t more Fish. Every grain of Rice was eaten, the photo shows the Red Chilli and a Soupçon of Lamb, donated by Marg for appraisal.

On Saturday I resolved that on my next trip north, I would be heading to Rehmat’s for Fish Karahi. Rehmat’s, where Fish Curry is cheaper than Lamb, around half the price charged here, and twice as much Fish is served. The proprietor of Travancore, please be aware.

Meanwhile across the table, Graeme was celebrating the fifth piece of Fish on his plate. In the true Curry-Heute manner, Graeme was warned that as his Curry hadn’t been photographed, it couldn’t possibly taste as good as Hector’s. These are his words:

It was a medium Curry, flavoursome, a good variety of herbs and spices. (I) Liked the king fish, the Lemon Rice was exceptional.

Lamb Black Pepper Fry

Was this – Curry? On close examination, there was a Thick, Minimal Masala shrouding the Meat, that which the Hector prefers above all. There was appreciably more Lamb in Marg’s bowl than Fish on Hector’s plate. Appearance wise, this Dish was identical to a Lamb Sukka, as typically served at Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen (Glasgow). Marg has watched me eat this, whilst she ate otherwise.

This is wonderful! – was uttered by the lady as she tore in to her mass of Meat, followed immediately by a Cardamom. That took her aback. Had Marg once again ordered the better Dish? Hector’s nose hovered over the Pepper Fry, Smokiness was confirmed. Last time Marg had a Smoky-flavoured Curry she failed to identify this.

Marg reflected on both the quantity and quality of her chosen Curry:

A dish brimming with dry lamb, full of flavour with a smoky aroma. A good kick, with a light fluffy Chapatti to complement the Curry.

Leaving the Soupçon to the very end proved to be a worthy strategy for Hector. Note, Marg had Meat to spare. Whilst the Texture of the Meat proved to be excellent, the blend of Spices here did not sit well on the palate after the Fish Curry. A juxtaposition, be aware, do not order this and ask for Masala to be poured over a la Chicken Tikka Masala.

With reference to – CTM – the man who is credited with its creation, Ali Ahmed Aslam passed last Monday. I wonder if people are turning up in droves at Shish Mahal (Glasgow) to pay homage.

Almost every person I have met in the last week has told me of Ali’s passing, Curryspondent Ahmed from Islamabad too! Here’s an admission: before Marks and Spencer changed the packing from a portion for two to a single portion with Rice, Chicken Tikka Masala was a treat in Hector’s House.

Sanjo cleared the table. I pointed to the empty plates:

We didn’t like it.

The Bill

£77.86    Marg says I have to mention the – After Curry Mint.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was issued, then a discussion of South Indian Curry followed, Chettinad had a mention. Sanjo disappeared, Abdullah was now the main man. Coats were being put on, Hector would have his photos. We were then informed that Chef insisted we should have Dessert. Initially declined, Marg accepted the offer, coats came off.

Rice Pudding, served piping hot, with Nuts, Raisins and Ginger, much appreciated.

Four contented diners bade farewell, two more tables were now occupied. In terms of a comparison with Rehmat’s Punjabi cuisine,  Travancore’s is also authentic, but from the opposite end of the sub-continent. Rehmat’s is way better value, but as a dining experience, Travancore is streets ahead.

2022 Menu extracts

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Aberdeen – Rehmat’s Restaurant – Authentic Punjabi Fayre +

Somehow, Hector has resisted coming this far north in 2022, until now, the ritual of Aberdoom at xmas maintains. For the first time ever, Hector and Marg actually had to pay for accommodation in this city. With the expansion of relatives’ families, there was no room at the inn. The Travelodge overlooking Union Street it is, a perfect spot from which to update Curry-Heute. The premises which were once Ambal’s remain empty across the street. Nazma Tandoori has gone, leaving Monsoona and Namaste Delhi the only Curry Houses on Bridge Street. Nurtaj Indian Restaurant is also no more.

Two new venues have appeared in Aberdeen. Travancore is due to be visited on Boxing Day, tonight, Marg and Hector investigated Rehmat’s Restaurant (249 George St., Aberdeen AB25 1ED Scotland). The menu posted online shows Punjabi Goshat (on the bone) (£8.95), how could Hector resist? Finally, Lahore Karahi have a rival in Aberdeen serving Punjabi Fayre.

Having phoned to confirm Rehmat’s was still open this close to the festive day, we arrived at 21.10. Oh good, a Curry Cafe – was my declaration as we entered. The lady out front asked if we were here for Ice Cream. This was Krepes ‘n’ Kones – Scotland’s Premium Dessert Cafe, Rehmat’s is through the back.

As we approached the rear of the premises, it was apparent that the place was relatively busy. A large family group with eight wandering weans, were in the main dining area adjacent to the kitchen. Having stood for a few minutes, we were granted a booth table near the entrance. Here we may have been far enough away from the unruly children, however, the adjacent corner booth was occupied by six teenagers who had ordered sugary drinks and hysteria. I hope we didn’t spoil their meal.

A young waitress brought the menu. We were here for the Curry, yet this was but a small section of the menu. Burgers and other kiddies’ delights were possibly more prominent, and explained the presence of the noisy teenagers.

Marg opted for Fish Karahi (£7.95) with her customary Roti (£0.95). For Hector, a Plain Nan (£2.50) would accompany the Punjabi Goshat. I doubt if there’s a Fish Karahi served at such an agreeable rate anywhere else in the UK outside of Bradford. The price of the Roti also impressed. Throughout the years of Curry-Heute, there has been a continuing rant about the inflated price of Bread in Aberdeen, this was honourable, realistic.

The waitress took the Order. Despite our choices being listed under – Desi Style – Hector was taking no chances.

Is there extra Desi Style?as your mother would make it and your father eat it.

If this created an air of uncertainty, the request for a large bottle of Sparkling Water caused confusion. A jug of Tap Water was suggested as an alternative. Eventually, two 330ml bottles of Sparling Water (£2.45) were produced.

During our wait, Marg commented that if I had not been on a mission to establish the efficacy of the Fayre, I would never have stayed. I reminded her of the one and only visit to the ill fated Manzil, in this city, where we asked to move tables, such was the disturbance at a nearby table. Tonight, there was nowhere else to sit, or was there?  Eating Curry in the Ice Cream parlour? .

Grin and bear it, t’is the Silly Season.

The Roti was served whole and was of the Wholemeal variety. It didn’t go crispy as it cooled though Marg did find it to be unnecessarily – dry. The Nan was served in quarters. With a Buttery sheen, it was way too thin, peely wally, and lacked genuine burnt blisters. I deduce this was a Naan from a Tawa, not a Tandoor. The Bread was comparatively poor, just as well normal Aberdoom prices were not being charged.

Fish Karahi

Topped with Fresh Coriander, the flaked Fish was shrouded in just enough Masala to stir up interest. Sliced Green Chillies had been cooked through. This was reminiscent of a Bradford Fish Karahi as served at The Kashmir Restaurant. The quantity impressed. As soon as Marg tore in she stopped and held a forkful of Fish Karahi across the table. Not wishing to contaminate the palate, I would have my Soupçon later. However, Marg insisted I try it right away. She was right to do so.

This was magnificent. The powerful Flavour of Fish was complemented by the Spicy Masala. Spice, Seasoning, Fishiness, and the ideal ratio of Fish to Masala. This could well have been the perfect Fish Karahi. And it was Marg who ordered it. If 17.00 was not the opening time, Hector would be back here on Boxing Day for lunch.

Marg’s verdict:

A rich helping of Fish and Herbs, full of flavour and an unexpectedly delightful meal.

It surprised me how tasty it was.

Punjabi Goshat

Again, the Coriander topping featured with more Masala visible. I chose to decant to the warm plate in order to fully appraise the Masala. The almost – greyness – a telltale sign of a Tomato-based Masala was evident, this oozed quality. As with the above, sliced Green Chillies had been cooked in. Having decanted, the Coriander was now mixed through the Masala. I counted the Meat, ten pieces, two of which were on-the-bone.

The Spice Level was well pitched, the Seasoning was below the Hector idyll. A distinctive Desi Flavour emanated from both Meat and Masala, a bit more Salt and Herbs then Hector could have been in raptures. This was most certainly not Mainstream Curry.

The Lamb varied from Tender to a bit chewy, nothing here to worry about. The Meat too was giving off the Flavour from the Masala, the quantity proved to be just the right amount. Less, and I might have left wanting, more and I could have struggled. As ever, I had to abandon the last quarter of the Bread to ensure I finished the Curry. This was pleasure, significantly different from anything ever experienced in Aberdeen.

Neither of the Breads had impressed, yet Rice would not be an appropriate accompaniment for either of these Dishes. The – Sides – was a list of mostly Western Fayre. Dal Tadka (£6.50) is a possibility, an Aloo Gobi would be a welcomed addition to the menu.

Although Lahore Karahi have impressed on occasion, if these Dishes can be replicated on every visit, then we have a winner. Lamb Chop Karahi (£9.50) also tempts. No doubt, one day, Marg will have Keema Peas (£7.95).

As we ate, so a mature chap who was clearly Mein Host had been patrolling both operations. In time he came over to ask the customary question. On praising the efficacy of the Fayre, he was keen to establish from where we came.

Mein Host was brought up in Glasgow’s West End and has been in Aberdeen for some twenty seven years. Fingers in a few pies – may describe the array of establishments he has been involved in during this period. Rehmat’s has been in operation for two years. How did I miss this last year?

Marg wasn’t finished, Ice-Cream was called for. The Krepes ‘n’ Kones menu was brought from next door. Two scoops (£3.50) were ordered. Satisfaction was attained.

The Bill

£27.65 The printed Bill did not include the Ice Cream. The Roti had magically become a more expensive Garlic Naan (£2.75) and so I did not contradict the lesser charge for the Water.

The Aftermath

Mein Host was sat through in the front as we departed. Conversation continued, as did the opperchancity to secure photos of the Ice-Cream parlour.  He mentioned another Blogger whose name I could not make out.  Mein Host recognised that Lahore Karahi and Rehmat’s are the only Aberdeen venues serving this style of Curry in the proper manner, or – the real stuff – as Hector shall describe to all who ask.

2022 Menu extracts

 

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Glasgow – The Village “Curry House” – Karahi Palace, closed again…

Not for the first time has Hector returned from a trip and headed across the River Clyde at the first opperchancity to have Karahi Lamb at Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ). In August, Karahi Palace was closed – temporarily, The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA) was the fallback. Karahi Palace did reopen eventually, so imagine the shock at finding the shutters down this Saturday afternoon. Hopefully, someone will tell me soon what is happening there.

And so, to The Village it was. Karahi Lamb had evolved into Achari Gosht (£12.95) with Mushroom Rice (£3.50) as I walked back along Nelson Street. It was a surprise to find twenty five fellow diners at The Village at 15.00 on a Saturday afternoon, especially on a day with a restricted train service. Hector’s optimal eating time is perhaps beginning to be appreciated?

As I checked the menu had not changed since my last visit, so the Order did. Lamb On Bone Lahori Karahi (£12.95) is what I had planned to eat on leaving the house, so why not? To accompany, Nan Bread (£2.95) and a jug of Tap Water.

Great choice – declared the waiter when I said – Lahori Karahi on-the-bone.

The TV was showing the penultimate match in the World Cup: Hrvatska v Maroc, the game no team, Scotland apart, ever wants to play in.

The Manager, who must work the longest hours, came over for a chat. Having spotted the Persian Grill (£44.95) in The Village Menu, a veritable Meat Feast, I could not help mentioning my Persian experience in Köln two days previously. He described such fayre as – bland – and suggested that Turkish is far better. He admitted that the Persian Grill served here has an Indian twist. Good to know, but I’m unlikely ever to order this platter. Hector does Curry.

The Naan was served in quarters, I never remember to ask for – whole Naan. It was too peely wally for Hector’s liking, no burnt blisters, but soft in parts. I was later advised that I should ask for – well done. In all my years of ordering Naan, the existence of this as an option has never been discussed.

Lamb On Bone Lahori Karahi

This is the portion, not the half kilo, which is becoming astronomical. Normally, I eat directly from the karahi, the waitress had brought a timeous warm plate and so decanting tempted. The full quality of the authentic Masala could then be revealed.

I counted the Meat into double figures, I’ve had – so called – half kilos with less. A magnificent Sucky Bone would have to be dealt with in the proper manner.

The Tomato-rich Masala gave off a big kick, no extra Chillies required here, however, the Ginger Strips added extra bite. The Flavours were familiar with no obvious Spice in the blend. With Herbs strewn through the Masala, I hoped for the Methi blast I would experience along the road, alas, no. At Karahi Palace: extra Salt, extra Methi – is understood. At The Village, I don’t think I have ever asked for tweaks.

The Meat was soft, truly so, but was not giving back as much Flavour as was coming from the Masala. The Masala had a sharp taste, the Tomatoes dominating, definitely in the Lahori style and may I dare go as far as writing – Charsi.

This was a suitable – welcome home Karahi – but without the – wow. Outstanding Curry is what brought me to The Village in the early noughties. The portion aside, Karahi, in quantity, has become a major investment. Maybe it’s safer sticking to Curry.

The Bill

£15.90   Tap Water kept the total down, and it didn’t taste of bleach.

The Aftermath

There was further discourse with The Manager, I really should get his name.

Back along Nelson Street, such a sad sight. Glasgow cannot afford to lose these chaps.

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