Two days ago, Curryspondent Peter made the Hector aware of a new Curry Cafe on Glasgow’s Southside. With the aim of enjoying some more Lahori/Punjabi Cuisine, hopefully served in the Desi-style, Hector took the Subway across to Govan at 13.30. The Famous had a home match this afternoon, the streets of Govan were empty, strange times.

It was a five minute walk along Govan Rd. to The Wee Dhaaba (17 Elder Street, Govan, Glasgow G51 3DY). As I approached, so the huge shipyard, commonly known as – Govan – came into view. I last walked this stretch one summer’s evening @1978, en route to guard part of this industrial site. The Wee Dhaaba occupies the corner unit opposite what is now Fairfield’s Heritage Centre, Elder Street is one of the many streets along the south bank of the River Clyde which comes to an abrupt dead end.
A couple occupied the corner window table as I entered. I was surprised to see a variety of cakes (£3.50) on display under the counter, not pre-cooked Curry as is the norm on the Southside. It was apparent that The Wee Dhaaba is aiming to be recognised as a – Coffee & Cake – establishment in addition to serving Pakistani Curry.
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A young lady emerged from the kitchen and handed me the menu. The sensible choice of table was adjacent to the couple at another small table. Small, The Wee Dhaaba has six tables, seating about sixteen diners. Additionally, tables and benches, as one sees at a Bier festival, were folded against the wall. In better weather, people can sit outside, not today. A young child quietly amused himself in the far corner. No facilities were visible, I suppose one can ask.
There were ten Lamb Dishes to choose from. The Vegetable Dishes also looked interesting, no Aloo Gobi, however, Karela piyaz (£7.50) would be a challenge. Methi Aloo Gosht (£9.50) will have to wait, Lamb Karahi (£12.00) would surely reveal all?
A Tandoori Naan (£2.50) to accompany felt sensible. I assume they have a Tandoor, but I did watch the cooking of Meat on a mini-grill for the couple beside me.
The lady, I would later establish as – Sara – took the Order on a pad. A bottle of Sparkling Water (£1.20) was a welcomed addition.
I like to try new places – I informed Sara as she noted the Order – Lamb Karahi should be a good test.
This raised a smile.
I deliberately made no enquiry as to how the Karahi would be presented, this was very much a case of let’s see what comes. I already had the knowledge that the food here was going to be authentic Lahori/Punjabi Fayre, none of that Mainstream nonsense. For once, Google Maps – about – section was informative.


The wait for the Karahi Gosht was appropriate. A mature chap entered the premises and headed to the kitchen, had he been summoned to cook Hector’s Karahi? Another mature chap entered, known to the staff. He ordered, then took the corner table beside me. He was from Halifax, this led to a spontaneous discussion about Bradford Curry, an opperchancity for Hector to recite his favourite Bradford Curry Houses. (Halifax Curry Houses also appear in Curry-Heute). His sister, as I understood it, is the mother of the two ladies now seen serving. A family business became the logical conclusion. This was enhanced by a glorious Statement on the menu:
You can place an order a day prior for any mom-made food you wish to eat.
This must be investigated, Lamb Desi Qorma immediately comes to mind.
Sara brought the food.
I had specifically asked for a Plain Naan to avoid any Garlic and its associated issues as written earlier in the week.


This Naan was far from – plain. Behold a Roghni Naan, perforated to prevent it rising, and smothered in Seeds, Sesame and some other. Was I in Manchester?
Round, a decent size, and served in quarters, the Naan was well-fired. The firmer texture had been achieved through the perforations. Not my favourite type of Naan, the Sweetness would taint the Flavours from the Karahi. Paratha (£2.50) next time.
Lamb Karahi
The appearance was – magical – the aroma had me immediately won. The peripheral Oil was at a minimum. On-the-bone, there was no reference to this on the menu or discussed at the time of ordering. No messing, this was the real thing, an authentic Desi Karahi Gosht.
The Thick, Tomato-based Masala, had quite a quantity of finely chopped Onion in there too. I counted the Meat, twelve, some who have been here previously questioned the volume, no problem here. Sucky Bones, plural, Coriander leaves and stems on top, sliced Bullet Chillies cooked in, this was way more than I expected when I read the menu and saw – Lamb Karahi.
The Spice was well pitched, sufficient not demanding. The oh so important Seasoning was spot on. There was a genuine depth of Flavour, though at times, the Sweetness from the Naan marred total enjoyment. Nevertheless, the pedigree shone through.
No Whole Spices – was noted, but then a Cumin Seed lodged itself in the usual spot. The Lamb was magnificent, a Big Meaty Blast! The ratio of boneless to on-the-bone, was well judged, a filling meal even allowing for the debris. So much fun gnawing off the Meat.
As I approached the end, weighing up when to abandon the Bread, so Sara came over to ask if the Lamb Karahi had passed the test.
This is proper, Desi Curry!


The plate wiped clean, just over a quarter of the Naan was left. Honourable.
The Bill
£15.70 Cash is preferred, contactless is fine.
The Aftermath
Introductions over, what became a lengthy discussion got underway. The food was praised, that Roghni Naan is so prevalent in Manchester was unknown.
I look forward to meeting the elders, whose culinary skills I had just sampled. A family business confirmed, The Wee Dhaaba has been in operation for some two months. More of the Lamb Dishes will have to be tried, the Vegetable Dishes intrigue. I can see Marg having Coffee & Cake whilst the Hector explores the savoury elements of the menu. Hector’s next project?
And so back out into an eerily quiet Saturday on Govan Rd., twenty minutes to kick-off, hardly a soul to be seen. The Wee Dhaaba is open seven days, all day, I shall have to remember to avoid match days when The Famous return home.
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2024 Menu


Long overdue a Karahi Gosht, the Hector was across the river, arriving at 
With so much on display, here was the opperchancity to take some photos of the fayre. 





The Coriander Naan was round, large and whole, already a winner. The puffy blisters added to the efficacy. In addition to the copious Coriander, the Naan glistened. I had asked for – no Garlic – was the sheen significant?
The Coriander, Ginger Strips and Bullet Chillies sliced lengthways created the classic appearance. The Meat count was double a decent standard portion, loads. Behold the Sucky Bones. The Masala, rich in Tomato Seeds, shrouded the Lamb, the peripheral Oil was collecting. This was as majestic as this Curry can be. All was set. 





The Antiseptic had gone, the Seasoning decidedly upped. Time, the great healer.


Darbar Grill 

There’s still no printed menu, the prices on the board appear to be for Takeaway. The declared portion size impressed. Had I been been looking for something else, there was no suggestion that – cooking to order – was available. As Ahmed is effectively running a school for Chefs on these premises, maybe nephew might have offered more? Hector was in a hurry, so not an issue today. 


I liked the metal bowl. Shorva, there was no denying that this was as Soupy as Curry can get. This was as Aloo Gosht should be. Seven pieces of Lamb on-the-bone and two decent sized pieces of Potato were arranged on the Rice. Two major bones, one Sucky. The Potato was cut into six manageable pieces. Enough Shorva was spooned over to create a Curry as the Hector sees it. As ever, Masala was retained for the end game, to moisten whatever Rice would be left. Boy, would I get that wrong.
Tender, towards chewy, the Lamb was giving back Spice having sat in the Shorva for a suitable length of time. The Potato too had absorbed the Flavour of the Shorva. This was as good as this Curry gets.
A spoon was required for part two. 

Bateera (Quails) (£7.00) at
Just before the cluster of Curry Houses on Cheetham Hill Road, another new venue came into view – Cafe 99 Khan Baba (97 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester M8 8PY England). Rice & Three (£6.00), attractive, but it needs to be established exactly what is on offer. With kilos of Lamb Karahi also advertised, another one for the future. Walking past 
The more agile Marg went under the shutters, not quite limbo dancing, and called out. A lady emerged from the gloom. Having challenged the fact that they should be open, it was explained that there was a water problem and works were ongoing. Lahori Butt Karahi would open later.
Cafe 99 Khan Baba now seemed like the logical place to investigate. Crossing at the lights, yet another venue was revealed. A second branch of Lahori Nazara, currently of Stockport Road, east of the Wilmslow Road – Curry Mile. This may further enhance the theory long proposed in these pages, that the Curry scene in Manchester is moving north. The Northern Quarter and Cheetham Hill is becoming a more authentic – Curry Mile. With many shops in the original Curry Mile now just Kebap-grill houses, Cheetham Hill is where one finds Lahori-Desi Curry. A taxi driver on this trip concurred, he acknowledged the changing ethnicity in the south of Manchester and the change in food on offer. 

Marg likes giraffes, there had to be a photo. On entering the empty Cafe 99 Khan Baba, we chose the table at the door. Despite it getting hotter by the minute outside, we needed air. A chap sat behind the counter, it became clear he was never going to approach us. I went up to place the Order.

Wary of how splashy the accompanying Masala can be, never mind the footeriness of eating this micro-game bird, I decided to try Boiled Rice (£2.50) as the accompaniment. Having explained to Marg that Keema Balti (£7.00) was about being served in a – bucket – and did not refer to a particular ingredient, she was happy with this, plus her customary Chapatti (£1.00). 


A portion is normally two, the Hector had three! This would increase the chances of staining the polo-shirt by fifty per cent. I should invest in a bib and carry it with me. Steve later suggested I carry a spare t-shirt for dining in. There are no photos of the Hector, napkins aplenty, held in place by will power. 
The Masala oozed Desi quality. Orange, Oily, possibly blended, I put enough on top of the wee-birds to created the appearance of Curry & Rice. With some of the Masala soaked into the Rice, one part of the strategy was working. However, there was nowhere near enough Masala to accommodate the Rice. I could fetch more, as and when. The absurdity of having Quail with Rice soon became apparent. Fingers are required, there is no other practical way.
Served on a plate, not a – bucket – one has to wonder why this Curry was called as such.
Chicken and 

Lahori Butt Karahi was open as we walked back down Cheetham Hill Road. Their loss. Next time, but I think I have written this before.
A late night Curry at
The
Last night, I ordered the ½lb Cheese Burger (£6.90). Outrageous, especially when the – half kilo – was planned for this afternoon. The Onions and Pickled Chillies are what gave it height. How could each of these two patties be quarter-pounders?
The Bill
Four good sized Lamb Chops, suitably cremated, but with the pink from the Tikka Powder adding colour, a slight detraction. Well Spiced, well Seasoned, this was the anticipated delight. Maybe two portions would be better than one? Ordered separately. I didn’t want it to end. The late night munchies were tamed. Or were they?
The suggested rendezvous time at 

Steve joined us having ordered – Fish and a Chapatti (£1.00). 
It’ll taste alright now – he acknowledged after the Hector had secured the necessary photo. Dr. Stan’s mini-Buffet featured Channa, Keema Peas, and Spinach + Potatoes. Quite a variety, quite a plateful.
Mags arrived having ordered boneless Karahi Lamb (£6.50) and a Chapatti. With no further space at the table, Marg adopted the Hector mode and directed Mags to a window table where they would sit together. 

Steve’s Order was duly presented: freshly Fried Fish with Salad. This was not what he was expecting. He had assumed a Fish Curry. I sent him up to the counter to fetch a bowl of Masala. He now the components to replicate Hector’s Fish Creation, albeit without the Rice. Steve was about to create his own Dish.

Normally one would tear off pieces of Bread and either dip in a Masala, or scoop up solids. Steve was about to create something approaching a wrap, but to be eaten with a knife and fork. This was not complete until Steve had gone back up to the counter to fetch – the foliage. 
Rizwan brought Hector’s plateful: Fried Fish, Salad, and Fried Rice. Rizwan had already added – the foliage – and had spooned on some Masala. I had to ask for the additional bowl of Masala, this is what makes the Dish, else there would be insufficient moisture to eat all assembled. The bowl of distinctly orange Masala hopefully came from the Karahi Lamb. 
The Fish had been fried in a Spicy Batter, with the added Green Chillies, there was quite a – kick. With two sources, the Seasoning was right up there. The Masala was giving out its Umami Spice and Seasoning. The Fish tasted as if it had actually come from the sea. Not too much to ask, but a well-Seasoned Fish Curry can be hard to source.
A certain social medium highlighted that today was the anniversary of a visit to
There was no Rizwan as Marg and Hector entered
Rizwan arrived at 12.58 and immediately came over to greet. That our Order had already been placed was confirmed. Then there was the catching up, and the sad news that two of our company could not travel. We shall still make double figures.
Four large Chops, the Spice coating could be seen, an Onion based Salad to accompany. Maybe Marg had something grander in mind on that side.
Decided last minute to go for lamb chops and salad. 4 cremated chops appeared with enough carbon and tender meat to satisfy me. Great flavours of spice, and I enjoyed the cooling onion, lettuce and tomato salad with mint yoghurt. The chops were messy to eat but well worth it. 
The naked Curry was brought by Rizwan who then went to fetch – the bits. Suitably dressed, it was time to tear in. There was no Meat count, no need, the portion was as massive as ever. The ratio of Meat to Masala was such that careful management was necessary, the antithesis of a Soupy Curry. With the Masala, partly absorbed by the slightly Spiced Rice, this Karahi, if indeed it actually is, just looks so welcoming. Blended, possibly, the richness of Flavour of the Masala never fails to impress. Consistency, I’ve had this Curry dozens of times, it is always the same. Wonderful. 
Tender Meat, the quality always stands out.
The Bill
With half an hour to go before we could finesse an early check-in at t’Travelodge, Marg chose a new venue on Tibb Street for coffees and one dessert. Fourteen pounds, eighty three pence, seriously.
A Sunday brunch in
Entering at 13.15 on this fine day which resembles summer, a chap to our left was finishing his meal. The serving Doris was sat on the far side. We sat mid-room. A chap from the kitchen approached the counter and acknowledged our arrival. There was no sign of the mature gentlemen who provided the immortal phrase regarding the continuing acceptance of – cash only.
Do you need 

The Hector did need the 

Two Chapattis, a sensible size, a sensible thickness. Not quite the plain ones I particularly enjoy, there was a hint of – Wholemeal – in there. The Hector would manage only one and a half Chapattis.
The Rickmeister has told of the Samosas in 

Kofta Palak, one takes a notion for this intense Curry. Four large Meatballs were sat in a karahi, shrouded by a Dark, Thick, Herb-rich Masala. Hot food, care had to be taken until the extreme heat abated.
The Spice built quickly, the Herb blast was unforgiving. This was the full on Saag/Palak experience. The Seasoning was quite a bit below the Hector idyll, but the potent Herbs compensated. Antiseptic – was noted as Marg took a Soupçon and pronounced the Masala to be – Sweet. We all see colours differently, do tastes register on our plates differently also?

Pieces of Tomato were revealed as I ate. The surplus Onions added crunch, Diversity. Whatever the notion, it had been well sated.
The Aftermath
Warning, there’s going to be a lot of Curry consumed in the next few days, when the Hector is in
The adjacent
Entering Punjab’s at 17.45, nothing appeared to be different except – Punjab’s – is now inscribed on the waterfall. Greeted by a young boy, he had to refer to his seniors to allocate a table. 




The menu provided, there were decisions to be made. Would Marg share a kilo, or stick to her standard Karahi Keema (£10.95)? She chose the latter. This left Hector with the choice of the large Karahi Gosht (£13.95) or the half kilo of Handi Gosht (£14.95). The Handi is on-the-bone, and where else but Bradford is one going to get a stand alone half kilo for this amount? Sorted.

Raita and Chilli Sauce were brought to the table. A Salad would arrive with the mains, I let Marg deal with it, Hector literally would have enough on his plate.
Served in a large karahi, not a handi, there was a mass of Curry here. There was no need to count, this was the veritable half kilo by any means of measurement, and I’ve seen a few miserly ones.
Super-soft meat, not too many bones, and one – Sucky – featured. Excellent, this was going to be fun, and a test of stamina. The Spice Level was exactly what was sought. The Seasoning was decidedly lower than Hector’s preference. Consequently, the intensity of Flavour, one felt, was being restricted. The Bradford Curry Taste was there, but was subdued to an extent. Still, a glorious meal, satisfying would be an understatement.
The portion looked significantly smaller, but matched what Marg normally manages. No Peas or Potato, this was a straight karahi-full of Mince. No needless Masala, the Oil was collecting on the base of the dish as is expected.
A good portion of Keema in the karahi dish. A rich flavour with a hint of Coriander throughout. (No Methi?) Oily residue in the dish but overall a very tasty meal with the Roti.






































The comparatively Dry nature of the Bombay Aloo complemented the Shorva. The Potato had a much more intense Flavour, Coriander to the fore.
The Big Onions were as feared, redundant. Cauliflower, say, would have been much better. Had there been a Cauliflower in the house, Aloo Gobi could have been today’s creation. 

There was a lovely aroma in the kitchen, with fresh coriander, and I took a good helping of the potatoes which had absorbed the Spices. When I added the thin fish sauce, I enjoyed mashing the potato to soak up another burst of flavour. The fish added flavour, as did the prawns, to a wonderful dish. 
